1. The Style of
things to come!
BY GRANT DAVISON
26 LE KAP l AUTUMN 2016
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‘There’s a brand new dance, but I don’t know its name.
That people from bad homes, do again and again,’
proclaimedthelateDavidBowieinoneofhisiconicsongs
from the 80s. During the third South Africa Menswear
Fashion Week Autumn/Winter collections in Cape Town,
these words echoed in my mind.
Recently, we have seen a trend in collections in Europe,
North America and the Far East, in that what it takes to
be worthy of acclaimed street photographers such as
Bill Cunningham, Scott Schuman and even my friend,
Trevor Stuurman, seems ignored by the crowds who
push their own agendas on what is and is not ‘fashion’.
Perhaps I am a purist by heart; that is, when the invitation
says MENSWEAR, those attending should wear exactly
that. In 1994, journalist Mark Simpson coined the term
‘metrosexual’ to describe contemporary, city-dwelling
men who emphasised personal grooming and fashion.
At the time, the well-moisturised modern dandy directly
contrasted the traditional notions of masculinity. Two
decades on, this archetype has become commonplace.
It is not only socially acceptable, but desirable for men
to care about (and spend money on) their personal
appearance, driving a veritable boom in the men’s fashion
market. (In fact, Simpson has just coined a new term -
the ‘spornosexual’ - to describe the current even more
extreme, body, image and style-obsessed version of the
metrosexual). On the back of this exploding industry, a
record 37 designers displayed this year’s Autumn/Winter
collections to an enthusiastic audience.
Though it would be unfair to dismiss the creativity
and hard work that went into these collections, some
should be mentioned for their consistent well-crafted
and creative designs. They say a picture is worth a 1 000
words, however, it was the headline on CNN’s website
that truly encapsulated the AKJP Collective – ‘Asylum
seekers walk runway at Pitti Uomo in Italy’ referring to the
International Trade Centre’s Ethical Fashion Initiative.
A few weeks ago, AKJP participated in Pitti Immagine
Uomo 89 for the Generation Africa show alongside
favourite, Nicholas Coutts, demonstrating again that
fashion truly knows no gender, race or nationality. >
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2. wearing Vans since we were students and are in love with their
black and white skater-style sneakers – we wear them to work
every day says Paulsen. The oversized bags and clutches are AKJP
designs and will be available at their Kloof Street store in Cape
Town along with once-off appliquéd versions. This collection is true
to AKJP’s signature take on classic and utilitarian menswear and
uses layering, asymmetric detailing and styling, which approves
comfortable ready-to-wear pieces and Durban’s beach culture.
‘Historically, fashion has related to womenswear. Menswear
has always abided by some trends, but they were slow moving,
with very conservative changes and had very little to do with
the cycle that we think of when we consider runway shows and
fashion magazines,’ comments Yati Khumalo, deputy-editor of
GQ magazine and editor of GQ Style. ‘But at some point, fashion
culture started to move over into menswear in a big way.’
Kim Gush, true to her minimalistic and monochromatic fetish-esque
streetwear designs, delivered her strongest signature collection
to date using staple PVC, cotton and faux-fur. Kim presented a
powerful and original compilation, provoking controversy. ‘Know
what you stand for, and know your brand from the get go. If you
cannot embody that in every collection or garment you put out
there, then who are you doing it for?’ stated Kim previously and
this collection spoke to my current sartorial choices although
it took many to a much darker place where fame, terrorism,
family and politics could be inextricably linked and sometimes
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The 12 designs shown at Pitti Uomo formed the basis of the
36-piece collection put together for SA Menswear Week 2016,
particularly the new parka/raincoat designed for the Cape winter.
AKJP surprised many by including 12 styles for women. ‘We want
to expand our range of outerwear for women and since most of
our clothes are unisex, we thought why not?’ stated Keith Henning
and Jody Paulsen, ‘Call it our tomboy look.’ These attractive
designs illustrated a wealth of textures and visual interests with
clever combinations of fabrics such as jacquard, cashmere, silk,
wool, cotton, mohair, linen, twill and impala leather, which speaks
for the duo’s obsession each season in finding the right materials
for their collections. With a reference to artist, Georgina Gatrix’s
provocative paintings infused with fun aesthetics and a sense of
deprecating laughter, Paulsen added, ‘we translated her art into
fashion with textures such as jacquard and warm colours. What’s
more, Georgina’s personal style is very spirited and idiosyncratic’.
Extending the majestic icons of traditional art canons, contemporary
pop-culture and the artist herself, ‘IT’ fashion model, Eden Classens
(who is the darling of ‘A-List Fashion Editors’), joined fellow models
wearing layers of make-up and decoration mimicking Gatrix’s almost
excessive application in her paintings. Reworked prints inspired by
a jungle landscape in muted pistachio and shades of blue and red
dominated the range.
In collaboration with other cultural influences, the designers worked
with Vans footwear and Gisele Human of Waif Design. ‘We’ve been
indistinguishable. Those who did not appreciate her vision could not escape, but no one
can disagree that her #AW16 collection matches her ambition in artistic maturity.
The rise of the Internet has also played a critical role. ‘Growing up, my idea of style was
limited to what I saw in magazines, but today anyone can go on the Internet and see how
people dress all over the world, see what brands they are wearing, and, of course, buy
them,’ said Stuurman. He referred to the fact that in April, Prada, once predominantly
focussed on fashion for women, announced that it hopes to double menswear sales
over the next few years.
As a result of this rapidly growing market demand, fashion brands have expanded
introducing broader product ranges and, in some cases, dedicated menswear stores.
(Hermès, Lanvin, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada are amongst those
who have launched men’s-only flagships). When British Nigerian super stylist and
fashion editor, Iniye James - better known as Tokyo James - launched last year one could
see that he had refined his craftsmanship over the past 15 years of conceptualizing,
dreaming, and practising and learning the ropes. Bringing a level of detail to his fashion
brand, seldom seen by newcomers to the industry, Iniye managed to infuse his eclectic
personal sense of style while maintaining a commercial appeal. Everything that came
down the catwalk on Saturday night looked photo-ready for the editorial pages of Le
Kap magazine, GQ Style, Gaschette Magazine or The Rake. ‘I design for the man who
loves simplicity with a bit of edge; the man that is a go getter and creates the reality he
wants to live in; the man who believes anything is possible with determination and sheer
confidence,’ said Iniye of his creative process and this is evident. Strong combinations
of textures were fascinating, jackets of faux-crocodile and wool tailored to perfection,
embroidered shirts and fur finished three-quarter jackets ensured this collection catered
for the more traditional dresser, but with elements for those fashionable blokes.
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PHOTOS
PREVIOUS SPREAD
01 AKJP
02 Tokyo James
03 Tokyo James
04 Black Dog
05 Mustafa Hassanali
06 Dicker
THIS SPREAD
07 Kim Gush
08 Tokyo James
09 Orange Culture
10 Dicker
NEXT SPREAD
11 Mustafa Hassanali
12 Orange Culture
13 Taf the Taylor
40 LE KAP l AUTUMN 2016 LE KAP l FASHION 41

3. This was the first collection I have seen presented by Tokyo James
and I certainly hope not the last. According to a 2013 luxury goods
study, since the economic downturn in 2009, growth in the market for
men’s ready-to-wear fashion has outpaced womenswear, increasing
between 9 and 13 per cent year-on-year. A recent HSBC study noted
the rise of the ‘Yummies’ (young urban males), high earners poised
to drive luxury fashion sales further, as they marry and raise families
later in life. Last month, National Purchase Diary (NPD) Group
reported in the US that sales of menswear increased by 5 per cent in
2013 to over 60 billion USD, outperforming womenswear.
When one of South Africa’s most prolific fashion directors produces
a collection, people take notice. Reported in the media last year and
known for his unique sense of style and love for prints, Chu’s third
CHULAAP by Chu Suwannapha collection was everything I expected.
This collection took the horrific 2013/2014 trend of pattern clashing
and merged it with others to create something that could have
been seen in one of Laduma Ngxokolo’s MAXHOSA shows. Chu’s
latest collection merely updates his love of bold, bright patterns
with a military bias and graphic prints layered in traditional styling.
Though this collection, our Prince of Pattern recycled old into new
and addresses the mise en scène bubbling under the consciousness
of South Africa; another form of cultural appropriation difficult
to translate into mainstream commercial viability. One could be
forgiven for imagining some wearing CHULAAP to SONA (State of
the Nation Address), but even with accessories by Pichulik, this is not
something that has appeal outside the Fashion Elite.
Anyone walking through the recently expanded Sandton City will
notice rival luxury goods conglomerates, Kering and LVMH Moët
Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE (LVMH) have significantly invested in
their respective luxury menswear brands, Brioni (purchased in 2011
by Kering, then called PPR) and Berluti. LVMH has invested about
135 million USD in transforming the bespoke cobbler Berluti into
a men’s luxury brand under the direction of Antoine Arnault, son
of LVMH chairman, Bernard Arnault. Even our own South African
owned ‘Richemont’, rumoured to be selling some of its ailing fashion
brands, is now planning to double its fashion portfolio, particularly in
menswear, with a significant investment in Dunhill.
As to whether these brands will prove successful, co-founder of South
African Menswear Week (SAMW) Simon Deiner said: ‘If the product is
spurious, it will not work, because although men have become used
to expanding their wardrobes, they are not stupid,’ adding, ‘focus
on the integrity and the usefulness of the goods. That is what we
hope to achieve with being the only representative fashion week in
South Africa for menswear designers. Our aim is to bring fashion
to that growing, and might I add, discerning market that demands
high quality, desirability and world view that comes with having the
disposableincometosupportthiscrucial,andoftenforgottenindustry.’
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Also available at Isabella Charlotte Boutique, Franschhoek Tel 021 876 2707
and Isabella Charlotte Boutique Brooklyn Mall Pretoria (opening May 2016)
WINTER COLLECTION IN STORE NOW
Luisa Spagnoli Cape Town
Shop 7249,V&A Waterfront
Tel 021 418 1691
Luisa Spagnoli Johannesburg
Shop UM 65-66, Hyde Park Cnr
Tel 011 268 0859
Mall of Africa
Shop 2117
(opening May 2016)
42 LE KAP l AUTUMN 2016