BusinessVibes organized Textile webinars to showcase industry trends and growth updates from textile industry experts and chiefs at prominent associations at Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association (TMMA), Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Associations (BGMEA), Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA) and Towel Manufacturers Associaiton of Pakistan

1. Textiles Webinar
28-06-2011

2. Table of Contents
 Briefing on Indian Textile Engineering Industry by Mr.
Saktiprasad Chakrabarty, Secretary General of the Textile Machinery
Manufacturers Association
 Briefing on Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing: Bangladesh
Perspective by Mr. Faruque Hassan,Vice President of the Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association
 Briefing on Sustainable Technology for Modernisation by Mr. Ashok Desai,
Director of Bombay Textile Research Association
 Briefing on the Free Trade Within The Subcontinent by Mr. Tahir Jahangir,
Chairman of the Towel Manufacturers Association of Pakistan
 News on BusinessVibes

3. Indian Textile Engineering Industry
(TEI)
May 2011

4. TEI – An Overview
 The Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) in India is one of the five key
engineering sectors
 Consists of more than 1400 units, with a total investment of
Rs.6,900 crores*
 More than 80% of the units are SMEs*
 Capacity is Rs. 8048 crore*
 Provides direct/indirect employment to > 250,000 people*
 TEI contributes greatly to the competitiveness of the Indian Textile
Industry (TI)
 Meets 45-50% of the demand of the Indian textile industry*
* (Source: Textiles Committee Survey)

5. TEI – An Update
Rs. Crore
Source: TMMA, DGCIS
5

6. Demand & Production – Past and
Projected
18000 70
15700
68
14900
16000
13300
57 56 55 60 60
14000
56
11000
48
10700
12000 50
49
9847
9577
( Rs.Crore)
8900
10000
40
7526
7300
7258
8000
5000
6000
6000
6000
5515
5500
5000
4077
4332
6000 30
3863
3802
3663
3456
4000
20
2000
0 10
2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2011-12 2012-13 2013-14 2014-15
Domestic Demand Met by domestic production Met by import % Share of demand met by domestic industry
6
Source : TMMA, DGCIS & Private sources.

7. Webinar
Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing:
Bangladesh Perspective
Faruque Hassan
Vice President, BGMEA &
Managing Director, Giant Group
June 28, 2011

8. An Outlook of Bangladesh Textile & Clothing Sector
 Starting in the early 1980s, Bangladesh has become the 2nd largest apparel exporting country in
the world in 2010 recording USD14.86 billion exports
 More than 5000 garment factories are operating in Bangladesh where 4 million people are
employed, 80% female
 The share of garment export to national exports during the July 2010-May 2011 period stood 77.71%
 Garment export earning is around 13% of Bangladesh’s GDP
 During the July 2010-May 2011 period our garment exports totaled USD 15.96 billion registering a
robust 43.18% growth compared to the corresponding period of last fiscal
 Export touched a record height ever in a single month in May 2011, USD 1.79 billion showing 50.55%
growth.
 The primary textile sector meets up almost 90% raw material needs of knitwear exports and around
40% needs of the woven garment exports
 Bangladesh is the world’s second largest cotton importer, annual import is 4.75 million bale average
 Bangladesh produces almost 100 percent of the accessories needed by the export oriented garment
industry
 Around 6 million people are employed in the Textile and Clothing sector altogether, 40 million people
are directly and indirectly dependent on this sector
 Bangladesh enjoys duty free access to the European Union, Canada, Australia, Japan, Norway and
Switzerland
 The modern factories have state-of-the-art machineries, international standard quality control
process, good house keeping and social standards
 Almost all the globally renowned brands are sourcing from Bangladesh and a good number of them
having liaison office in Dhaka
 The industry is growing at an annual average rate of 15%

9. Priority Areas of Technology Upgrade: Bangladesh Textile & Clothing Perspective
Skill Development Widening the
and Capacity application of IT
Building for Product solutions catering to
& Design the Textile &
Development Clothing Industry
Govt. Support for
Waste Management
Research &
through Energy
Development,Textile
Efficient &
Environment Efficient, & Clothing Park,
Green, Favorable Taxation
Friendly Technology
Policy
Clean and
Sustainable
Production

10. Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing Sector
Clean & Energy Efficient Production:
Though the Textile & Clothing sector is underway of modernization, but the sector incurs a huge wastage in energy and
resources. For example - the ratio of energy efficiency in the T&C sector is 40% and the wastage of water is around
15%-18%. Since fabric process requires to use huge chemical, water, electricity and energy this has an impact on
the environment and nature. However, considering the worldwide growth in apparel consumption textile and
clothing production has also to grow at per. But we have to be cautious about the adverse impact on environment
and how to minimize the impact. We are campaigning to motivate the entrepreneurs on this spirit, which includes
the following points:
 Use effluent treatment plant to re-treat the water and conserve the nature
 Use water treatment plant to feed clean water into the textile processing so that the use of chemical and energy
can be minimized
 Use energy efficient machine and technology in case of boiler, iron, fans and blower , etc. The purpose built and
low-risk energy efficient boilers may be placed
 Use low liquor ratio dying machine to optimize the use of water, energy and chemicals
 Replace the magnetic ballasts with electronic ballasts
 Replace the normal bulbs with energy saving CFL bulbs and use LED lights
 Replace the induction/class motors with Servo motors
 Steam trap maintenance & insulation of pipes
 Energy co-generation
Skill Gap and Skill Development:
 The major productivity gap emerges from the skills shortages in the textile and clothing industry. The world textile
& clothing market is growing and we have a 5% share of it only. So we have a huge scope of growth. Our
entrepreneurs have that capability and dynamism to utilize this potential and our workers particularly females are
one of the best workforce in the world for this industry. Such a growth projection clearly indicates the need for a
huge skilled workers.

11. Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing Sector
 The existing infrastructural facility is not adequate to supply required professional for the textile and garment industry
in Bangladesh. The textile technologists available in Bangladesh is not adequate at present. So the government needs to
scale up the technical and vocation training facilities for this sector to produce graduates and professionals for the
textile and clothing sector. Apart from focusing on the conventional education, government needs to pay more
attention on the technical side.
 BGMEA is running a number of training centers for developing skilled workers, and it is very encouraging that some of
our esteemed buyers have also come forward to partner with us in this venture. We are pursuing the government to
start large scale training facilities for this sector
 Particular focus has to be drawn in the area of developing expertise for product and design development to facilitate
our progression to high value added segment
Widespread Application of IT Solutions
 Different machineries are used in Textile Industry for various departments like Blow room, Carding, Combing, Weaving,
Bleaching, Testing, Finishing
 Produce diverse range of products in a specific delivery cycle
 Numerous end product variants created from relatively limited raw materials
 Machine Sequencing & Load Balancing complexities
 Long replenishment lead times for procured raw materials
 Multiple production scenarios in different locations and routing as the product needs to go to different places for
different value addition
 So, the IT solution like CAD, PDM, POS, ERP, RFID need wider use in Textile and Clothing sector
Training and Research & Development on the Textile and Clothing Sector:
 Favorable policy initiatives needed to support the technology up-gradation like India and Pakistan
 Promotion of Energy Conservation Technologies by the all related trade bodies.
 Needs to strengthen Research & Development for the Textile & Clothing sector

12. ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY
Environmental Sustainability: the Ultimate Impact
Respect for nature – Green-building, water recycling and using renewable energy has
been getting increased attention among the entrepreneurs. BGMEA has been running
several projects to promote energy efficiency in textile & garment factories.
Sustainable use of resources – The textile & garment industry in Bangladesh have
already gained significant progress in clean production. In order to bring all factories
under this practice BGMEA runs projects like waste recycling. We are in the process of
initiating a responsible sourcing program with the IFC-SEDF. It undertakes awareness
program to upgrade technology for sustainable production.
Safe to wear products – Most factories run their own textile testing labs which are
accredited by large fashion retailers like H&M, Marks & Spencer, Puma, JC Penny, G Star,
Tesco, Hugo Boss, Zara, etc. Tests are done as per various international standards like
ISO/AATCC/BS/OEKO-TEX. Most of the companies have awards from big fashion retailers
for good product & Quality.
Skill Development - BGMEA established country’s first fashion institute called BGMEA
INSTITUTE OF FASHION & TECHNOLOGY in 2000. The institute is aimed to cater mid-
management professionals and fashion designers need for the garment industry
BGMEA runs skilled development program jointly with the Government of Bangladesh
to address the skill shortage. This institute is in the process of transformation into a
fashion university. BGMEA runs productivity and quality improvement projects

13. The Bombay Textile Research Association
Mumbai

14. GENESIS
BTRA was established in 1954 as
research association under the
societies registration act XXI of
1860 to provide research and
consultancy support to Indian
Textile Industry

15. MANDATE
To undertake research and other
scientific work in connection with
the textile trade or industry and
other trades or industries allied
therewith or accessory thereto

16. MAIN ACTIVITIES
Research
Training Consultancy
Testing

17. In-house
Projects
Training /
R&D
HRD
Utilities / Technology
Conservation Transfer
Quality &
Decentralised
Environment
Government / Sector
Management
Financial
Institutions

18. BTRA ACTIVITIES
Consultancy in all aspects of textiles
Consultancy in Technical Textiles
Consultancy for ISO 9000 and ISO 17025
Techno-economic Feasibility / Vetting related Reports
Service on Valuation of Plants, Machinery and Building
Testing Services
Consultancy in Eco labeling
Services to Decentralised Sector

19. Testing services
BTRA Test Laboratories are accredited to ISO-17025 : 2005 standards
Physical / Chemical properties – textiles, chemicals / dyestuffs, etc.
Microbiological properties
Technical textiles / composites testing
Polymer properties – certain unique and special test facilities
Eco-testing
Testing as per GOTS / OEKO-TEX
Flammability Testing
Specially designed tests for washing machine manufacturers, detergent
manufacturers, etc.

20. Testing Facilities for Nonwovens including
Polymer Testing
X-ray diffraction (chart diffraction)
FT-IR spectroscopy
Birefringence measurement
Light Microscope photographs
Scanning Electron Microscope photographs
Thermal analysis (by TGA, TMA, DSC)
Melt Spinning experiments
Gel Permeation Chromatography

21. NEED FOR FOCUS ON MANPOWER TRAINING
1. NEED FOR SHOP FLOOR PRACTICES
2. KNOWLEDGE OF MODERN MANUFACTURING
PRACTICES AND TECHNICAL/SUPERVISORY SKILLS
3. AWARENESS OF ENVIRONMENTAL NORMS

22. SUSTAINABLE TECHNOLOGY FOR
MODERNIZATION

23. Project : Plasma Technology for Textile
Processing
A few Potential Plasma Applications for conventional
and technical Textiles
• Improvement in hydrophilic/wetting properties of
fibers like polyester, PP, PE etc.
• Ease of removal of sizing material in desizing
process
• Improvement in the adhesion promotion
• Hydrophobic/ water repellant finishing of textiles
• Textile finishing : Anti-static, anti-bacterial, optical
barrier coating, etc.

24. Advantages of Plasma Technology as eco-friendly
process :
 Environmental friendly technique
 Dry technique as no water is required
 Low energy consumption,
 Qualitative and full controllable process
 Operator friendly technique: no chemical products,
gases, etc.
 No damage to the substrate and no change in bulk
properties.
 Minimum waste disposal problems

25. Achievements in the Plasma Processing of Textiles
Wettability improvement
 Treatment of polyester, polyester/cotton samples with
helium oxygen plasma for improved hydrophilicity
Functional finishing of textiles
 Functional finishing of 100% cotton, 100% polyester,
and P/C blended fabrics with HMDSO to impart water
repellent properties
 Functional finishing of cotton fabrics for oil repellency
using fluorinated acrylates.
 Nylon and PET treatment with silane plasma

26. Achievements in the Plasma Processing of Textiles
Water repellent cotton by plasma treatment
UNTREATED COTTON HMDSO TREATED COTTON

27. Achievements in the Plasma Processing of Textiles
Dyeability
 Modification of cotton fabric with aminosilane plasma
followed by dyeing with reactive dyes
 Improved dyeability of nylon by means of plasma
activation followed by grafting

28. Project : Studies on Textiles doped with
Conducting Polymers
Electroconductive Textiles
 Smart Textiles-
Capability to respond to the external environment agent in
an appropriate manner
Electrically conductive textiles-
 Incorporation of Conductive polymers into textiles
 Innovative way than the conventional methods
 Retains all textile properties, yet work smartly through
ability to conduct electricity
 Projected to have broad impact in the fields of protective
clothing, medical textiles, military, sports, consumer
products

29. Chemical Polymerization of ICP s on Textile
fabrics
• Development of an Innovative Two step In-situ Chemical Polymerization of
Intrinsically conductive polymers (ICP) on Textile Fabrics
• Electrical Surface Resistivity can be achieved in the range of 10 – 108 Ω
• Scaling up of the Process for large scale production is possible

30. Improvement in Atmospheric Stability of ICP
coated Textiles
• Resistance to Ageing of Polypyrrole coated Cotton fabrics was improved by
the Incorporation of Sulfonic acid salts (e.g Naphthalene sulfonic acid- NSA)
as doping agents
• The reduction in atmospheric aging to the tune of 12-13 times was observed
with the use of sulfonic acid dopants in addition to chloride dopants

31. Prototypes
• Development of various prototypes for specific applications:
 Smart Textiles
 Resistive heating pads & garments
 Fabric based hazardous Gas Sensor

32. Some of the Publications
• Quality and Operational Benchmarks for modern
spinning mills
• Global challenge vis-à-vis performance levels of
modern blended yarn / cotton spinning mills in India
• Quality parameters for Home Textiles
• Norms for Chemical Processing
• Norms for Mechanical Processing (Weaving)
• Steam Consumption Norms for Textile Process
Houses
• Developments in Processing of Knitted Fabric
• Product catalogue on Technical Textiles

33. TAHIR JAHANGIR
CHAIRMAN

34.  The Towel Manufacturers’ Association of Pakistan was recognized by the
Government of Pakistan on 9th August 1976 as “B” class Association with Head
office at Karachi and two Circles viz., Northern (i.e. Punjab & NWFP) and
Southern (i.e. Sind & Baluchistan) provinces with their offices at Lahore and
Karachi respectively.
Since then the Govt. of Pakistan has entrusted this Association with the job of
management and distribution of Quota of Towels, Terry fabrics & other made-
up to its members.
Most of the Towel Manufacturing Units are members of this Association.
 The Association is also designated to issue Certificates of Origin under Article
11(2) of the International convention relating to the simplification of customs
formalities, 1923 in respect of Towels exported to non-GSP countries from
Pakistan vide SRO No. 903(1)1181 dated 10th August 1981.
 This Association to also issues certificates (T-2) for submission to that Bank for
sanction of Business Travel Quota for countries other than India vide State
Bank of Pakistan letter No. 8066/ECP.8(ii)-B-83 dated 31st October 1983.
Association Description

35.  Move to a free trade regime progressively within the Subcontinent. This will bring
out the best firms in the region - they will have a big market at their doorstep.
The economies of scale and the access to each others know how and technology
will help them grow stronger and take on the large firms worldwide much better.
 Big boon for the consumers of the sub continent. Imagine having the choice of
buying the best or cheapest garments, sheets, fabrics, towels from the entire
range presented by the subcontinent. Also imagine the diversity of design.
 It worked for the United States of America and then worked for the European
Union, why not us?
 Given the current protectionist tendencies it is an idea that is difficult to stomach
in one go. I would therefore go step by step. Once the first step succeeds and is
seen to succeed and bring benefits to all concerned then it will be easier to take
the second step.
 No sentiment in the entire European Union that wants the free trade
arrangements reversed. They may complain of the common Euro and the financial
burden of bailing out the weaker economies – but there is no one who wants the
customs union to go.
Policy Ideas of the Association

36.  Start with textiles and take the least sensitive items
first. As the Chairman of the Towel Manufacturers
Association of Pakistan I would like to offer free
trade in all terry products and made up items. My
proposal is to dismantle the current import duties
placed on these items by each country to be
abolished in the following manner:
 Year 1 – half the current import duties.
 Year 2 – further half the duty i.e. come to 25%.
 Year 3 – abolish all duties.
 If the basic idea appeals to a cross section of the
industry then more segments could be approached
for the phased duty reduction.
 Interested? Contact me at ceo@halaenterprises.com
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