2. BALANCING THE POOL
➤ When we refer to balancing in the pool, we’re looking at four key parameters
in addition to sanitizer readings: pH, alkalinity, total hardness, and stabilizer.
➤ All of these parameters have differing effects on the pool: some will affect
bather comfort, some affect how well your other pool chemicals work, and
still others affect whether or not your pool equipment stays in good shape.
Some parameters can have a multitude of effects on your pool.
➤ The general order of operations when balancing a pool is as follows:
➤ Alkalinity
➤ pH
➤ Stabilizer (cyanuric acid)
➤ Total hardness
➤ The products listed in this presentation all have charts on them to help you
measure and apply each chemical as needed to balance your pool.
3. ALKALINITY
➤ Alkalinity is a buffering agent; it is specifically designed to prevent pH bounce.
➤ Under typical conditions, in a system with low alkalinity, anything added to pool
water can cause an adjustment in pH. This can make pool balancing difficult.
➤ Alkalinity takes the hit for pH, causing a much smaller change in pH and a small
change in alkalinity. Since changes are usually small, it’s generally sufficient to
test alkalinity once a week.
➤ It is possible to have high alkalinity; in these cases, the pH will tend to run high
and get stuck there, making it difficult to balance pH back to recommended levels.
➤ Ideal readings for alkalinity:
➤ 80ppm minimum for all pools
➤ 80-125ppm for salt pools
➤ 125-150ppm for non-salt pools (150 max for salt pools)
➤ 200ppm maximum for non-salt pools
4. ADJUSTING ALKALINITY
➤ To raise total alkalinity, apply Balance Pak 100 based
on your current alkalinity reading and your goal
alkalinity reading.
➤ Baking soda is not a suitable replacement for
Balance Pak 100. Due to how it dissolves and
how it’s manufactured, baking soda can result in
improper alkalinity readings and other water
quality issues. Only use pool-grade products in
your pool!
➤ Balance Pak 100 will cause a small increase in
pH; be sure to check your pH after balancing
your alkalinity and adjust as necessary.
➤ To lower total alkalinity, fresh water is generally the
most economical way with partial drains and refills.
➤ Never drain farther than 2-3” below the
skimmer unless given the OK by your pool
builder!
➤ If source water has high alkalinity or if water
replacement is not an option, the use of Lo ’n’
Slo over multiple days can reduce alkalinity.
Carefully monitor pH when using this treatment
method and stop if the pH dips below 7.2.
5. PH
➤ pH is one of the most crucial balancing items and should be
tested more frequently than any other parameter—at least once
per week.
➤ The pH scale runs from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral.
0 147
Acidic Basic
7.4 7.6
➤ The ideal pH reading is between 7.4 and 7.6, with the OK range
extending from 7.2 to 7.8.
➤ This range is where pool chemicals are at their most effective;
it’s also the most comfortable for bathers’ eyes and skin.
6. PH CONTINUED
➤ When pH is below 7, the water is considered acidic, or corrosive. At this stage,
chlorine is burned off more quickly than it can kill bacteria. Additionally, the water
will start to break down the interior of equipment as it passes through the system,
which can lead to leaks as well as metals being deposited into the water.
➤ Water that is acidic tends to be clear; a clear pool with low pH is not safe for use!
➤ Swimmers will generally complain of burning/stinging eyes and itchy skin when
pH is low.
➤ When pH is above 7, the water is considered basic, or scale-forming. Above 7.8,
chlorine becomes stagnant. Water will tend to be cloudy as it struggles to keep
material in solution and cause minerals to precipitate, or fall out of solution. Some of
the material that falls out of solution may adhere to the sides of the pool.
➤ Calcium is notorious for doing this and can form scale on the surfaces; scale is a
white, chalky buildup that can harden and form sharp edges over time.
➤ Swimmers will generally complain of dry eyes & skin when pH is high.
7. ADJUSTING PH
➤ For low pH, add Balance Pak 200
based on your current pH reading.
➤ Baking soda is not a suitable
replacement for Balance Pak
200 and will result in abnormal
pH and alkalinity readings.
Only use Balance Pak 200 to
raise pH!
➤ For high pH, add Lo ’n’ Slo based
on your current pH reading.
➤ Muriatic acid is an acceptable
alternative to Lo ’n’ Slo; use
approximately 1 pint of acid for
every pound of Lo ’n’ Slo
required.
8. STABILIZER
➤ Stabilizer, also known as cyanuric acid (CYA), is a buffering agent that slows the breakdown of
chlorine from UV exposure. In short, it’s like sunscreen for your chlorine.
➤ Stabilizer is built into dichlor and trichlor based chlorine products, like chlorine
tablets. These products provide a very small boost to stabilizer that is generally offset
by regular additions of fresh water from splash-out and backwashing.
➤ Stabilizer is not consumed through regular pool usage; it will stay in the water until
diluted out. Therefore, it’s not necessary to test cyanuric acid more than once a
month.
➤ Low CYA levels will result in the sun burning chlorine very quickly out of the pool,
increasing chlorine consumption.
➤ Ideal readings for stabilizer:
➤ 0ppm for indoor pools and bromine-sanitized pools (keep as close to 0 as possible!)
➤ 30ppm minimum for non-salt pools
➤ 60ppm minimum for salt pools
➤ 100ppm maximum for all pools
9. ADJUSTING STABILIZER
➤ For low CYA readings, add Stabilizer
100 to the pool to achieve a cyanuric
acid reading of 30-40 parts for non-
salt pools and 60 for salt pools.
➤ If cyanuric acid levels exceed 100,
fresh water can help to reduce the
level. Perform partial drains and
refills to accomplish this.
➤ Never drain farther than 2-3”
below your skimmer unless given
the OK to do so by your pool
builder!
➤ Note that all CYA testing
materials become more inaccurate
as the amount of stabilizer in the
water increases beyond 100ppm.
10. TOTAL HARDNESS
➤ Total hardness, also known as calcium hardness, is a measure of how much calcium is
present in the water.
➤ Low calcium hardness levels can result in etching of plaster surfaces, corrosion of
equipment, and foaming.
➤ High calcium hardness levels can result in the water dropping the calcium out of
solution; this can make the water appear milky.
➤ If the calcium begins to form on the sides of the pool, this is referred to as scale.
➤ Like stabilizer, calcium hardness is not consumed through regular pool use; it is diluted
out through additions of fresh water.
➤ Ideal hardness readings:
➤ 175ppm minimum for non-salt pools
➤ 200ppm minimum for salt pools
➤ 275ppm maximum for non-salt pools
➤ 400ppm maximum for salt pools
11. ADJUSTING HARDNESS
➤ For low calcium hardness
readings, add Balance Pak 300
to achieve the minimum
hardness reading appropriate
for your pool.
➤ For high calcium hardness
readings, fresh water can help
reduce hardness readings. This
can be accomplished with
partial drains and refills.
➤ Never drain farther than
2-3” below the skimmer
unless given the OK by your
pool builder!
12. A FINAL NOTE
➤ When balancing, it’s less
important to chase one
particular number within the
acceptable range than it is to
aim for somewhere within the
range.
➤ Every pool is different and
may behave a little differently
when it comes to balancing
parameters; time and regular
testing will help you
understand what makes your
pool “tick” and how to treat it
appropriately.
