Alsace is a region in northeastern France known for full-bodied, aromatic white wines unlike lighter northern European styles. The four noble grape varieties of Alsace that produce high quality wines are Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat. Late harvest wines from these grapes can be labeled as Vendanges Tardives, indicating concentrated sweetness, or Sélection de Grains Nobles, which are intensely sweet wines affected by noble rot.
1. STAFF TRAINING MODULE
Alsace
Alsace is the northernmost region in France specializing in still wines,
and it has developed a worldwide reputation for the quality of its whites.
Unlike most cool climate, northern European white wines, Alsatian wines
are neither light nor delicate; rather, the wines are more often full,
fragrant, spicy and rich. The weight and power of Alsatian wines affords
them space at the table amidst the region’s hearty cuisine.
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2. The Region
The small, colorful region of Alsace lies in the northeastern corner of France,
geographically separated from the rest of the country by the Vosges Moun-
tains. The Rhine River marks its boundary with neighboring Germany, and
governance of Alsace has changed hands more than once in the two nations’
turbulent history. Germany’s last command over the region ended with the
Nazis’ defeat in World War II. After its reclamation by France, Alsace became
the last major winemaking region in the country to attain AOC status, in 1962.
Alsace is divided into two regions:
Bas-Rhin: The Bas-Rhin is the northern sector of Alsace. The capital of Alsace,
Strasbourg, is located within this area.
Haut-Rhin: This southern sector of Alsace is home to many of the region’s
premier vineyards. Colmar is the regional capital.
Geology and Climate
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The secret to the power and body of Alsatian white wines lies in its sunny and dry climate: the Vosges Moun-
tains create a “rain shadow” effect, causing rain clouds to precipitate and disperse on the western side of the
range, leaving the region’s vineyards drenched only in sun. Alsace’s northerly location equates to added hours
of sunshine during the summer, and grapes ripen easily. Alsatian soils are a geological mosaic, containing layers
of granite, sandstone, schist, clay, loess, and other forms of sediment and rock. The best sites in the region lie
on the lower slopes of the Vosges. Better vineyards feature a southern or southeastern exposure to take
optimum advantage of the sun, and growers take care to match grape varieties with appropriate soil types.
Appellations inAlsace
AlsaceAOC
White varietal wines, red and
rosé Pinot Noir, and white blends
are released under the regional
AOC. Blends may be labeled as
“Edelzwicker” or “Gentil”.
Alsace Grand CruAOC
Alsace and Burgundy are the
only French regions to grant
“Grand Cru” status to vineyard
sites. In Alsace, 51 vineyards
qualify for production of Grand
Cru white wines. Most are
labeled by variety.
Crémant d’AlsaceAOC
Sparkling wines produced in the
traditional method of Cham-
pagne may be released as
Crémant d’Alsace.
3. Alsace and Alsace Grand Cru wines are usually labeled by variety, a rarity for French AOC wines. While basic AOC
wines may be produced from a number of grape varieties, Alsace Grand Cru wines are generally limited to the
following “noble varieties”.
The “Noble Grapes” ofAlsace
Other Varieties inAlsace
Pinot Blanc
Sylvaner
Auxerrois
Chasselas
Pinot Noir
This variety produces forward, fruity wines of medium acidity. Wines labeled
“Pinot Blanc” may be blends of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois, and wines labeled
“Pinot” may be blends of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Auxerrois.
Inexpensive examples of Sylvaner can be light and simple, but the grape
produces a full-bodied, rich, and mineral wine in the right hands. It is the only
variety apart from the “noble grapes” that can be produced as a Grand Cru wine,
in Zotzenberg.
While Auxerrois is not usually bottled as a pure varietal wine, its fatter texture and
honeyed aromas add voluptuousness to Pinot Blanc in blends.
Also known as Gutedel, Chasselas likely originated in Switzerland, where the white
wine is considered an ideal pairing for fondue. In Alsace, it is usually encountered
as an anonymous component of Edelzwicker blends.
Pinot Noir is the only red grape grown in Alsace. Characterized by lightness and
leanness in the past, Alsatian Pinot Noir can be surprisingly dense and extracted,
particularly as producers aim to compete with Burgundy.
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Riesling is the most
planted grape in Alsace,
and the source of some of
its finest wines. Alsatian
Riesling is classically
fermented dry, and is more
powerful than its German
counterparts. Fresh
acidity, minerality, and
youthful austerity
characterize the grape.
Muscat wines are
produced from two
separate varieties, Muscat
Blanc à Petits Grains and
Muscat Ottonel. Despite
Muscat’s suggestively
sweet nose--orange,
flowers, peach and
grape--Alsatian examples
are often dry on the palate.
Lighter than Pinot Gris or
Gewurztraminer, Muscat
makes a splendid aperitif.
Once known as Tokay
d’Alsace, Pinot Gris may
be genetically identical to
Italy’s Pinot Grigio, but that
is where the similarities
end. The Alsatian version
is more robust; revealing
honey, dried apricots,
mushroom, and ginger.
Fuller in body than Riesling
or Muscat, Alsatian Pinot
Gris often retains residual
sugar.
Gewurztraminer has a
signature personality:
full-bodied, fat, spicy, and
intensely aromatic, the
“Spicy Traminer” grape
inevitably produces
Alsace’s biggest and most
instantly recognizable
wine. Tasters often find
lychee, fruit cocktail, and
rose aromas arising from
this viscous, golden wine.
Riesling Muscat Pinot Gris Gewurztraminer
4. Late Harvest Wines
In Alsace, two late harvest indications may be added to wines produced from the noble
varieties:
Vendanges Tardives: To produce these concentrated wines, grapes are picked by hand late in the
season. VT wines are produced from a single variety, and they may be sweeter or drier in style.
VT wines may display the character of botrytis (”noble rot”).
Sélection de Grains Nobles: SGN wines are intensely sweet, botrytis-affected, honeyed wines
most suitable for service at the conclusion of a meal. Better examples stand alongside Sauternes
and the great sweet wines of the Loire Valley as France’s finest dessert wines.
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Alsatian Wine: Dry or Sweet?
The degree of sweetness in Alsatian wines can be unpredictable: for some producers, residual
sugar may vary from vintage to vintage in the same bottling.
Classically, Riesling and Muscat are generally dry, whereas Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are
generally off-dry. Today, however, many wines from the region are veering toward opulent sweet-
ness, with no indication of residual sugar on the label. Customers have, understandably, become
frustrated with the inconsistency.
Knowledge is key: in order to successfully sell Alsatian wines, servers must have an understand-
ing of the wines’ relative dryness or sweetness. Some producers, like Trimbach, remain classic in
their approach, whereas others, like Zind Humbrecht, now provide a sweetness scale on the label.
In addition, Alsatian wine law now requires all basic Alsace AOC Riesling wines to be dry. Overall,
both drier and sweeter styles can be exceptional, but they have different applications at the table.
5. SellingAlsatian Wines
Beyond a recognition of a wine’s level of sweetness, take a moment to discover something
about its character: some Alsatian wines are fruity, lush and modern, while others are wild
and earthy. Some are a little lighter; others are bigger and more concentrated than many
red wines. In a pinch, check out the alcohol level: an Alsatian wine with 15% alcohol might
be best reserved for the main course, whereas a bottle at 12% may be a better starter.
Remember, not all Riesling is sweet! Your guest may not realize this, and an introduction to
dry Alsatian Riesling might open a new door.
White wine from Alsace is not limited to the fish course: the spicy, denser styles of Pinot Gris
and Gewurztraminer produced in the region often pair best with poultry, sausages,
mushroom tarts, foie gras, veal, and other rich cuisine. Riesling can frame pork or scallops
equally well. And asparagus is a problem food for wine? Tell that to the Alsatians, who love
to wash it down with the local Muscat during the spring season!
Gewurztraminer and Muscat can provide an “a-ha!” moment for guests who are just starting
to get the hang of wine tasting. The aromas are so forward, intense, and recognizable that
the wines may serve to boost an inexperienced taster’s confidence. In fact, the hardest part
about selling Gewurztraminer to a neophyte wine drinker isn’t in the glass, its in the name.
Biodynamic and organic grape-growing are big trends in Alsace. If you have producers on
your list who abide by one or the other of these viticultural principles--JosMeyer, Ostertag,
Zind Humbrecht, René Muré, Albert Mann, Albert Seltz, and many more--you have a
powerful sales pitch for guests interested in sustainable farming practices.
Crémant d’Alsace makes an inexpensive alternative to Champagne for a budget-conscious
guest.
Review questions
1. What are the four noble grapes of Alsace?
2. What does “Sélection de Grains Nobles” indicate?
3. What red varietal wine is produced as Alsace AOC?
4. What mountain range separates Alsace from the rest of
France?
5. What AOC in Alsace authorizes the production of
sparkling wines?
6. What is the capital of Alsace?
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