this presentation involves the name and discription of all the tools and equipments used in pattern making with suitable pictures which makes it easier for the beginners to study about the equipments.

1. By Ankita Aggarwal

2. 1.MEASURING TAPE
2. NEEDLES
3. SCISSORS
4. THREADS
5. SCALES
6. MARKING DEVICES(CHALKS)
Equipments required during pattern
making:

3. METRIC MEASUREMENT MARKINGS REPRESENT
MEASUREMENTS IN CENTIMETRES AND MILLIMETRES AND
METERS.
IMPERIAL MEASUREMENT MARKINGS REPRESENT
MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES AND FEET AND FRACTIONS OF
INCHES.
DID YOU KNOW??

4. Fabric Measuring tape
This measuring tape doesn’t come with
hard case which makes it flexible
allowing designers to take
measurements of body as well as
fabrics..
Their standard size
Normally these tapes are 60 inches long
, although special fabric measuring
tapes are available which are 120
inches long.
(used for measuring long fabrics like
curtain, quilts etc).
 these come with hard pieces of
metals on end to make it easy to place
the tape at the exact location where
you want to start measuring.

5. Plastic fabric measuring tape
Inexpensive
Not durable and sturdy
While measuring plastic
stretches out over time,
which leads to inaccurate
measurements.
Further leads to major
mistakes on projects.
Plastic fabric measuring tape

6. Fibre glass measuring tape
Handy pocket- or purse-sized
retractable 60 inch/1.5m non-
stretch vinyl-coated fibreglass
tape in a durable plastic case
accurate measurement of
your waist and body on your
own.
Simply wrap the Perfect
Waist Tape...
Has a case to store and
protect the tape after use.
Metric on one side, inches
on the other.
For Rs $1.89
Without case (fibreglass $ 0.77)
With case for protection (fibreglass $1.89)

7. Trouser tape
This is a tape measure with a
curved thing on top which is
helpful in measuring inseam
length when measuring for
making pants. This ruler
measures 45 inches in length
(114 cms)
Crotch tailor tape
Take inseam measurements
Non-stretch
5/8 inch (16mm) wide
flexible vinyl-coated fibreglass
tape with metal end pieces
 a crotch piece...
Crotch tailor tape for inseam
measurements

8. Pocket (spring return)
They have a hard case and the actual
tape coils up inside of this case until
you need it, at which point you can
easily stretch it out for measuring.
 has a spring return and a locking
mechanism
Makes it easy for single person to
measure distances by themselves.
They can withstand dust and rust.
Standard sizes
Smaller once comes from one to
fifteen feet long while longer once can
be up to 35 feet long.
The tape longer than 35 feet are
known as “ surveyor”.
Comes in following options :
1. Imperial only
2. Metric only
3. Imperial and metric together.

9. A sewing needle for hand-sewing is a long slender tool with a pointed tip at one
end and a hole or eye at the other.
The earliest needles were made of bone or wood; modern ones are manufactured
from high carbon steel wire and are nickel- or 18K gold -plated for corrosion
resistance.
They are used for quilting, beading, upholstery, embroidery and countless other
tasks.

10. TRADITIONAL CRAFT NEEDLES

11. Beading
USE
Attaching sequins to fabric;
stringing beads for jewellery –
necklaces/bracelets/ anklets
The small beads need a needle
with a very small eye, so normal
needles are usually out of
question.
DESCRIPTION
Long thin needle with a
medium sized eye, somewhat
flexible.
Very fine and have big eyes.
SIZES
 standard needles are
available in size 10 to 15
Short needles are from 1 to 8,
used for attaching small beads
and sequins giving
embroidered look.

12. Chenille
USE
Ribbon/yarn/embroidery floss
DESCRIPTION
Long thick needle with an
eye large enough to use
several strands of embroidery
floss or yarn at one time.
SIZE
Sizes range from 13 to 26;
the most popular sizes are 16
to 26.
Size 13 and 14 are commonly
used for heavy and coarse
fabrics.

13. EMBROIDERY NEEDLE
USE
Decorative hand embroidery
and crewel* stitching.
DESCRIPTION
Average length and thickness
with a large eye to
accommodate embroidery floss
and yarn.
SIZE
The most popular sizes used to
embroider are size 7 and 9.
Because of their large eye these
needles are suitable for general
sewing. They are ideal for
people who have difficulty
seeing the eye of a needle.

14. QUILTING
USE:
quilting and hemming
DESCRIPTION:
These needles have long
shanks and can easily
penetrate through your
quilt layers.
They are quite short with
small, round eyes.
SIZE:
Sizes range from 5 to 12,
we recommend a beginner
to use a size 7 or a size 8.

15. MILLINERS/STRAW
USE
used in the art of hat
making.
Nowadays they are used
for making decorative
stitches.
They are also used for
pleating and creating fancy
stitching commonly known
as “smocking.”
DESCRIPTION
These are long sharp
needles
Have round eyes

16. Leather
USE:
Sewing leather, buckskin
and suede.
 Hand leather needles are
used primarily for
decorative top stitching
and for adding shank
buttons to leather,
buckskin and suede
garments and accessories.
DESCRIPTION:
Varying length and
thickness; triangular point;
small eye.

17. Carpet sharps
USE:
Working with rugs and
carpets
DESCRIPTION:
Longer and thicker than
regular sharps.

18. Canvas needles
USE:
suited for use on
plastic canvas .
You can use these
needles to join knitted
fabric pieces as well.
DESCRIPTION:
thick blunt needles
Plastic canvas needle

19. REPAIR NEEDLES

20. DARNER
USE
Mending holes … usually in wool
socks, sweaters and jackets.
DESCRIPTION
Long, average thickness with
large.
Sometimes called “finishing
needles”
SIZE
Size 14/18 are useful needles to
use when sewing pieces of knitting
or crochet together.

21. Short Darners
These needles have long eyes, and are used for mending and darning using
cotton or yarn.
Long Darners
In addition to being a darning needle these needles are useful to use during
basting and layering fabrics together.

22. CURVED NEEDLES
These needles are also called upholstery
needles.
USE:
Tufting; working with thick upholstery fabric;
tying off quilts.
This curved needles are used to repair and
mend usually upholstery weight fabric and
gives almost invisible blind stitches.
It is also helpful in reaching for seam which is
impossible to reach with normal needles
SIZE
Straight upholstery needles can be from 3 to
12 inches long.
 Curved upholstery needles vary in length
from 1 ½ to 6 inches.

23. Machine Needles
Machine needle sizes are always quoted in imperial and
metric. Regular point machine needles are designed for
domestic regular sewing machines and are used for basic
stitching.
Size 9/70 Suitable for light fabrics, silk and taffeta
Size 11/80 Suitable for medium fabrics, cotton, linen and satin
Size 14/90 Suitable for medium to heavy fabrics, this is an ideal in
between needle
Size 16/100 Suitable for heavy fabrics, denim, tweeds, curtain fabrics
and soft furnishings

24. Ballpoint
These machine needles are
ideal to use on jersey, stretch
and synthetic fabrics
Super stitch
These needles create trouble
free seaming and are the
perfect complement to jersey
and synthetic fabrics.
Jeans
These needles are designed for
heavy duty stitching and are
suitable for denim fabrics.
Twin Pointed
This needle forms parallel
stitches.
Size 11 x 2mm Suitable
for fine to medium fabrics.
Size 14 x 4mm Suitable
for medium to heavy fabrics

25. FABRIC SHEERS
A pair of shears -- whether
they're 10-inch tailor's shears
or 8-inch -- are necessary
when you must cut single or
double layers of fabric.
Also known as dressmaking
sheers
These are big scissors with
very sharp offset handles.
Fabric sheers should really
only be used on fabric. If you
use them on other materials
you will wear them out.
If you invest in quality sheer,
the scissor will be long lasting.

26. INCHES GUIDE FOR FABRIC SHEERS
SIZE GUIDE :
Professional tailors will use
shears of 12-13 inches(30-
33cm) as the length enables
quick cutting and the weight
provides an easy cut through
even the thickest cloth.
Many home dressmakers
find 8-9inches (20-22cm)
more manageable,
particularly if they prefer the
durable all-metal shears.

27. .
METAL VS PLASTIC
HANDLES
Traditionally, tailor’s shears have
been forged from all metal but
technological developments have
seen the addition of plastic handles
making shears lighter and more
comfortable to use. The heavier
weight of an all-metal pair does
some of the work for you when
cutting through thick fabrics but is
tiring on the hand and wrist over
time. This shortlist includes both
plastic and metal ergonomic
handles, which are shaped to fit the
contours of the hand.

28. HOW TO LOOK AFTER
YOUR SHEERS
Once you’ve found shears
that works for you, that
pair may well last your
lifetime if cared for
properly. Keeping them
clean and lint free is
important, as well as
regular sharpening.
Most will benefit from a
drop of oil in the joint to
keep the motion smooth

29. PINKING SHEERS
Pinking shears have a
serrated blade that allow
you to make a very small
zig zag cut in the fabric or
paper.
 Pinking shears are great
for decorative cuts in
paper crafting or
scrapbooking.
Most sewers use pinking
shears to stop fabric edges
from fraying.
They are commonly used
when cutting out a pattern
or hemming.

30. EMBROIDERY SCISSORS
These scissors are small and
delicate.
They might look like something
you’ll find in a surgeon’s office
but they’re good for making the
little snips that embroidery work
requires.
They have very pointy blades
that can get in between threads
and pick out the one that you
want to cut.
They are ideal for use in hand
sewing.
A helpful tip is to tie them onto
a ribbon and hang them around
your neck for easy access when
you need them.

31. CRAFT SCISSOR
These are going to be the
cheap scissors found by
the checkout at craft stores
that you can abuse.
Craft scissors are going to
be destroyed project by
project and that’s ok.
These are the scissors
that you really don’t have
to worry about.
General craft scissor are
the ones that you can
destroy and not feel
ashamed to admit it.

32. APPLIQUE SCISSOR
Appliqué scissors cut/trim
close to the fabric while
protecting it from damage.
 Ideal for appliqué work and
rug making.
 The paddle-shaped blade
pushes away the bottom layer
of fabric for flawless
controlled, cuts close the
stitching.
The offset handle allows for
a comfortable hand position
above the work surface.

33. Spring Tension
Scissors
No More Thread Tails
This handy little spring
action scissor is her
constant companion when
embroidering and quilting.
The fine blades with sharp
points easily get rid of
unwanted thread tails.

34. Cotton thread
Cotton threads are suitable for
fabrics like cotton, linen, and rayon.
They are known for their heat
resistance, which is why they are
popularly used on work pieces that
later need to be pressed with
clothes iron.
Some cotton thread variants have a
relatively rough texture, while
others have a smoother finish,
which allow them to pass through
fabrics with greater ease.
The disadvantages of cotton
threads are:
difficult to tell low-quality from
high-quality (purchasing thread
from a reputable company helps
alleviate this risk)
low-to-high lint depending on the
staple length and processing, and
quality cotton threads can be more
expensive.
King Tut is nature's finest cotton thread

35. POLYESTER THREADS
Polyester threads are a
little more elastic
compared to cotton
threads, which make them
more multipurpose
compared to the former.
You can use polyester
threads when you are
sewing woven synthetic
fabrics, knitted fabrics, and
fabrics that are a bit
stretchy.
Fantastico is a high-strength polyester
thread

36. FILAMENT THREADS
Filament polyester threads
are made from long, thin
strands of polyester fibers
that are twisted together.
 The advantages of filament
polyester threads are:
excellent elongation (the
fibers can stretch and
recover), smooth presence
with no lint and can be
finished as a thick or thin
thread.
The disadvantages of
filament polyester threads
are: not as strong as core
spun (when comparing the
same size of thread) and finer
filament threads may require
tension adjustments.

37. SPUN POLYESTER
Spun polyester threads are
made from the twisting of
small polyester staple fibers
together to create a long
thread .
The advantages of spun
polyester threads are:
spun polyester threads are less
expensive to produce and are
usually priced lower than any
other type of polyester thread.
The disadvantages of spun
polyester threads are:
moderate-to-high levels of lint
when sewing and not as strong
as filament or core spun
polyester threads.

38. SILK THREADS
Silk threads are made
from natural silk fibres.
 They are very fine and
are very useful for creating
temporary stitches
(basting) or when sewing
very thin, delicate fabrics.
Shiny silk threads

39. Silk floss - this thread has a high
sheen. It is also known as Japanese
silk. It comes untwisted and can be
used as it is, or divided to make even
finer stitches.
Twisted silk - this thread consists of
several strands of silk twisted
together; again it is ideal for
embroidery and can be used as it is,
or separated into smaller threads.
Stranded silk - these threads have a
sparkling look and can be separated
into strands for sewing in embroidery
projects.
Silk ribbon - silk ribbon is used for silk
ribbon embroidery, both as projects in
their own right, and for decorative
projects such as on handbags, tops,
skirts, etc. and for hair accessories.

40. NYLON THREADS
Nylon threads are known
for being strong, durable,
lightweight, and flexible.
You can use it for projects
that use materials like
canvas, vinyl, leather,
fleece, suede, and tricot.

41. WOOL THREADS
Wool threads are usually used
for embroidery.
They are also perfect for
sewing heavier fabrics like wool,
linen, canvas, and lightweight
denim.
Persian wool - Persian wool
consists of three strands. You
can use the three strands
together or separate the
threads to use singly.
Tapestry wool - his wool is not
as thick as the Persian wool. It is
not dividable.
Crewel wool - this is the finest
of the wool threads. It is ideal
for crewel embroidery projects.
While it is fine, you can weave it
into a thicker thread by twisting
with more threads.

42. ELASTIC THREADS
Elastic threads are perfect
for sewing projects that
require techniques like
gathering, crimping, and
smocking for embroidery.
It is also commonly used
as trace yarn for knitted
and crocheted fabrics.
Elastic white thread

43. Heavy-duty threads
Heavy-duty threads are
used for projects that
incorporate heavy fabrics
or materials, like those
used for making upholstery
and outdoor gears.
Heavy duty 100% cotton thread

44. METALLIC THREADS
Metallic threads are created from multiple
layers of materials wrapped and twisted
together.
The quality of metallic threads range from
very high to very low.
 A good metallic thread does not require a
lubricant.
Superior's metallic threads have a strong
nylon core, a thin layer of rice paper and a
special outer coating that keeps the silver
foil from rubbing against the needle.
The advantages of Superior's metallic
thread is: beautiful sheen and excellent
stitch quality when embroidered, quilted,
or sewn.
 The disadvantages of metallic thread is:
tension adjustments are required and
stitching speed may need to be decreased.

45. TYPES OF METALLIC THREADS
Purl thread - this thread is
hollow. Also twist thread
and pearl purl
Japan thread - this is a
very fine metallic thread
that usually requires two
threads used at the same
time.

46. Glitter or Mylar
Mylar threads are created
by bonding thin layers of
flat Mylar material.
The advantages of Glitter
thread is: holographic
effect and can be
embroidered, quilted, or
sewn.
The disadvantages of
Glitter thread is: tension
adjustments are required
and stitching speed may
need to be decreased.

47. Machine threads:
These are the threads inserted
into a sewing machine.
Bobbin threads –
this is an affordable thread that
goes on the bobbin; it is
commonplace for use on sewing
machines and is used for a wide
variety of general sewing projects
made on the sewing machine.
Variegated thread –
these threads are dyed different
shades, the variegation repeating
along the length of the thread in
an even manner. Suitable generally
for embroidery projects or
colourful sewing projects, such as
crazy quilt jackets, etc.

48. A ruler is an instrument used to measure distances, degrees and
determine straight lines. There are many different types of
measuring rulers, available in different shapes, sizes and
materials. These rulers are used in various occupations and fields
of study, such as geometry, printing, technical drawing, building
and engineering.

49. Desk Ruler
The desk ruler is very
common and is most often
the instrument associated
with the term ruler.
 They have traditionally
been made out of wood,
though plastic varieties are
pretty common.
Desk rulers are usually 12″
/ 30cm in length.
Desk rulers are often used
for general purpose tasks,
including math & geometry
and drawing.

50. A steel ruler
straight flat piece of
metal, very similar to a
ruler.
They can be flexible or
rigid, and are usually 6″ –
12″ in length.
Steel rules are generally
thinner than a desk ruler,
which makes them more
accurate since the
measurement markings
are closer to the surface
being measured.
Steel rules are used in
engineering, math &
geometry, and technical
drawing for their accuracy.

51. Yard sticks
straight thin pieces of
wood or metal used to
measure objects up to a
yard.
They usually are 36″ in
length and may include
imperial or metric
measurements.
In regions that use the
metric system they may be
referred to as a meter
stick.
 They are often used in
construction, carpentry,
and metalwork.

52. Carpenters ruler
A folding rule, or
carpenters rule, is a
wooden instrument
consisting of multiple flat
wooden sections
connected at the ends that
pivot allowing the rule to
be folded up.
They are usually used for
construction and
carpentry.
are regarded as more
accurate than a tape
measure and easier to use
for measuring inside
edges.

53. Architects Scale
An architects scale is a
type of ruler that has
measurements in several
different scales.
They most often made of
wood or plastic and are 3-
sided with 6 different
measurement scales.
Architects scales are used
for engineering and
architectural drawing such
as drafting blueprints to
scale.

54. 1. FRENCH CURVE
RULER
The French curve is the
most common curved ruler
used for fashion design (it’s
the translucent ruler
shown above).
 It’s especially handy for
making common fitting or
pattern adjustments.
CURVED RULERS

55. 2. THE HIP CURVE
The hip curve is an
essential tool for making
pattern as well as fitting
adjustments at, you
guessed it, the hip line.
The tool is also great for
making adjustments at the
hemline, for lapels and at
the elbow.
This type of ruler is
especially useful for
making side-seam
adjustments.

56. 3. THE FASHION OR
STYLING-DESIGN CURVE
This is one of the most
common curved rulers
used by the home sewer.
While it can be can be
used to draft patterns, it’s
more commonly used to
make neckline, collar and
sleeve cap adjustments.
In addition, it’s a great
tool to use for convert
darts into princess seams
and it too can be used for
making side seam
adjustments.

57. WATER SOLUBLE OR
DISAPPEARING INK PENS
Pros: Precise lines; easy to
mark small dots or circles;
bright colours show up
well on light fabrics; marks
typically disappear
completely with a light blot
of water, touch of the iron,
or with time
Cons: Sometimes
disappears too fast; marker
tips can dry up quickly;
marks can bleed or spread;
sometimes reappears after
initial removal

58. CERAMIC LEAD PENS
Pros: Makes thin accurate
marks; comes with
different colors of refillable
lead; erases or washes
away easily with water
Cons: Expensive; fine tip
breaks easily and
sometimes drags on fabric;
less effective on thick or
textured fabrics like wool
or felt

59. TAILOR’S CHALK
Pros: Leaves smooth
lines; good for marking
thick or textured fabrics;
usually fades and
brushes
away easily (which is
sometimes a con,
depending)
Cons: Easily breaks, dulls
and crumbles; must be
regularly sharpened; can
fade or brush away too
quickly

60. 4. CHACO LINER PENS
Pros: Leaves a very thin,
precise line of powder;
rolls easily and doesn’t
drag on fabric; comes in a
variety of colors; never
needs sharpening
Cons: Expensive to
purchase and refill;
colors can be hard to
remove from fabric initially
and may need thorough
wash

61. BAR SOAP SLIVERS
Pros: Already available in
your home (or free from
hotels!); easily glides over
all fabrics
Cons: Leaves residue so
should only be used on
washable fabrics; can leave
uneven smudges; limited
colors

62. WAX
Pros: Glides on fabric
easily and leaves clear
lines; won’t rub off or
brush away unless pressed
with an iron
Cons: May not completely
remove with iron; may
stain lighter fabrics

63. HERA MARKER
Pros: Won’t stain;
creases both sides of
fabric at once; never
needs replacing
(unless lost!)
Cons: Less effective on
synthetic or stretchy
fabrics that don’t
crease well; may leave
“shine” on fabric

64. Fabric Pencils
Fabric pencils are water-
soluble like markers. The
problem is that the lines
they draw are often very
hard to see, but the
benefit to pencils is that
you can always sharpen
them to get a fresh tip
and they won’t dry out.
Tip: Use these pencils on
darker fabrics; their light
colors will be easier to
see.

65. TRACING/CARBON PAPER
AND TRACING WHEEL
Pros: Ability to mark both
sides of the fabric at once if
you sandwich fabric with the
carbon paper; each packet
comes with a variety
of colors to use on light or
dark fabrics; easy to mark
long lines, curves or corners
while copying a template or
pattern exactly
Cons: Carbon can smudge
the rest of your fabric (or
your hands); lines
sometimes don’t transfer
clearly unless with heavy
pressure; less visibility of
where you’re marking
because the paper covers
the fabric