Also named Tencel
Composition Wood cellulose (eucalyptus trees, oak, and
birch trees)and synthetic substances [17]
Microscopic
appearance
smooth and circular cross section
Diameter 11-13 m crons
Aesthetic lustre and good drapability
Stretchability low
Shrinkage low
Resiliency moderate and hence they wrinkle
Absorbency good ; moisture regain is 11.5%
Crystallinity High- 0.62; hence high strength
Tensile strength high ; strongest cellulosic fibre when dry and
(first man made fibre to be ) stronger than
cotton in wet state.
damage Can be damaged by mildew and silver fish
Ecofriendly Biodegradable
Fabric breathability high
Fibrillation high
Fibrillation – longitudinal splitting of fibre to give micri fine surface hairs of diameter less than 1.4 micron
Fibrillation is due to high crystallinity
it weakens the mother fibre and if it is not done in a controlled manned it gives the appearance of piling
Lyocell can take high ironing temps. It will scorch and not melt
History
1855
George patented
artificial silk
& Swan
succeeded in
creating cellulose
textiles
Count Hilaire de
Chardonnet,
successfully exhibit
artificial silk
1889
1891
Chardonnet built a
plant to produce
his new fabric in
Besancon
Experimentation
with NMMO by D.L.
Jonhnson and
American Enka
1966
1979
American Enka
created regenerated
cellulose fibre which
wasn’t commercially
viable
Courtaulds
created lyocell
and started
manufacturing
1982
1988
Mass production
of Lyocell
25 tons/week
Lyocell fibre
holds the value
of 513.8M USD
globally
2020
Lets start from the start…….
Lyocell is a manmade fibre derived from cellulose, better known in the United States
under the brand name Tencel.
lyocell is produced from hardwood pulp that is broken down mechanically, then dissolved
so the cellulose strands may be extracted.
It is primarily found in the garment industry, particularly in women's clothing.
Extraction process
• Preparing the wood pulp
1. Harvested by the loggers
2. Logs are feed into chippers
3. Mill workers load the chips into a vat of
chemical digesters.
4. It is dried in a huge sheet, and mill
workers roll it onto spools.
5. Dissolving the cellulose
Advantages
Recovery technology of the NMMO. The
lyocell process allows reduced consumption
of chemicals by several times in comparison
to the viscose fiber.
Consumer far less energy than synthetic
fibres, and consequently are lower carbon
emitters Biodegdradable
Properties of lyocell fibers such as high water
retention ability, comfort, and enhanced
breathability propel its demand
Challenges
High cost of production and the lack of
availability of advanced technology for
manufacturing lyocell fibers are estimated to
hamper the lyocell fibers market during the
forecast period.
Additionally, lack of awareness about lyocell
fiber is projected to adversely affect the
market in the near future.
The fairly low surface energy of Lyocell fiber
makes it difficult for dyes to bind to it during
production.
Producing countries
Producing regions
Asia Pacific
North America
Europe
Middle East and Africa
Latin America
Asia Pacific exhibits a clear dominance
Mexico represents a significant market for Lyocell in textiles
Producer companies
Lenzing AG , Acegreen Eco-Material Technology Co., Ltd. Aditya Birla Group, Baoding Swan Fiber Co. Ltd., Chonbang
Co., Ltd., Weiqiao Textile Company Limited, Zhejiang Yaojiang Industrial Group Limited, China Populus Textile Ltd.,
Great Duksan Corp., Qingdao Textiles Group Fiber Technology Co., Ltd. , Smartfiber AG, Acelon Chemicals & Fiber
Corp.
Lenzing, spread across the globe, is the largest producer and manufacturer of lyocell fibre
Cost of Lyocell
It was originally produced as cheaper alternatives to silk, but due to expensive production techniques it is costlier
than cotton. Lyocell is generally more durable, with less time for washing and ironing, making the cost difference quite
difficult to quantify.
Supply dynamics - 2019
Cultivation of natural fibers decreased 3% to 32 million tons
Man-made cellulosic fibers continued their dynamic growth, expanding more than 6% to 7 million tons.
Synthetics achieved 5% growth thanks to robust expansion of polyester (PET) filaments and staple fibers.
Spunlaid nonwovens, newly included in global supply, slowed to the lowest growth rate in the century at nearly 4% to reach almost 7
million tons.
Source - Chemical Fibers International 2/3 2020, September 2020
The Fiber Year 2020 – Deceleration along the textile chain
Uses of Lyocell
Apparels - denims, knitwear, sportswear, coats
In 2016, the apparels segment accounted for more than half of the global lyocell fiber
market.
Home textiles - bed sheets, drapes, curtains, and carpets
Surgical products - absorbent pad, wound-contact layer, elastic and non-elastic
bandages, compression bandages, gauze dressing and wipes
Baby diapers
Automotive sector - filters, seat covers, battery separators
Cigarette filters
It also finds application in dehumidification sheets
and a precursor for carbon fiber.
Global Production by application in 2018 (U.S.)
Source - https://www.gminsights.com/industry-analysis/lyocell-fiber-market
Comparative study of lyocell
with cotton
Comfort – Lyocell is softer than cotton. The softness of lyocell is
due to its smooth surface.
Hygiene-Moisture regain of lyocell is 13% and cotton has
moisture regain value is 8.5%.
Lustre -Lyocell imparts excellent lustre to fabrics, garments
remain true, even after repeated washing. Cotton is
non lustrous material. Mercerisation is an industrial process
involving sodium hydroxide for cotton yarns or fabrics to
increase the lustre and dyeability.
The price -Compared to cotton, Lyocell is more expensive.
Example H&M shirts
Wrinkle resistance – cotton has low wrinkle resistant where as
the round shape of the Tencel fiber makes it less prone to
wrinkling.
₹2500 ₹1500
Current scenario
The Lenzing Group is planning to establish world's largest lyocell plant in
Thailand.
Sateri’s investment in lyocell is very much aligned with the aim for technical and
product upgrading for China’s textile industry.
Lenzing group opened first supply chain solution hub in Mumbai. For Lenzing
India serves as a key market for export and domestic use.
Lenzing associated with designers like Anita Dongre, Rajesh Pratap Singh, and
brands like Global Desi, Ddecor, Levis.
In terms of consumption, Asia Pacific dominated the
global lyocell market in 2018. Favorable growth of the
textile industry in emerging economies such as China
and India has created a highly conductive environment
for growth of lyocell fabrics market in the region.
According to India Brand Equity Foundation, the Indian
textile industry is projected to reach US$ 230 Billion by
the end of 2020
Top consumers of lyocell fabrics in the global market
include Inditex Clothing Company, Hennes & Mauritz
AB, G-Star Raw, Lindex Fashion Company, Eileen
Fisher, Williams-Sonoma Inc., Patagonia, Inc.,
Continental Clothing, Fjällräven and C&A.
Future
“Lyocell Fabric Market" is valued at 513.8 million USD in 2020 is expected to reach 750.6 million
USD by the end of 2026
Textiles is an industry that contributes close to 10% to global carbon emissions. Using more
lyocell means less water is expended, compared with cotton. By any measure, lyocell is a part of
the solution for a greener and more sustainable fashion sector which is needed immediately.
With global share holding of only 6.4% and 68.3 by synthetic fibers, a lot of push is required to
its demand so as to replace the synthetic fibres for a better future.