2. I N T R O D U C T I O N TO
EMULSIONS
How to Make Body Lotions & Creams
By
Shola Alabi
Shea Radiance

3. W H AT I S A N E M U L S I O N ?
✳An emulsion is the process of mixing two or
more liquids that are naturally not mixable.
✳When the emulsion is done correctly, the two
or more liquids are not separable.
✳There can be oil in water emulsion- where oil
is dispersed in water.
✳There can also be water in oil – where water
is dispersed in oil.

4. THE BASICS PHASES
EMULSION
✳Water
✳Oil
✳Emulsifier
✳Humectant
✳Thickener
✳Heat & Agitation
✳Preservatives

5. WAT E R P H A S E
✳Water is a diluent and a carrier of
other ingredients
✳Use only Distilled Water or De-ionized
Water. Tap Water or Pure Water is not
recommended
✳Pure or Tap water contains dissolved
minerals that cause the lotion to go
bad

6. OIL PHASE
Oils and butters allow your formulation to have
richness. The type of oil used can affect the
feel, spread and viscosity of your lotion.
✳Recommended usage rate of oil can be up to
25%
✳ Select oils based on what is available to you.
Example: Shea Butter; Cocoa Butter; Olive oil;
Coconut oil; Soy Bean oil; Sweet Almond oil

7. BUFFERS
Used to adjust pH level of Creams and lotions
✳If emulsion is acidic, use an alkaline solution to
bring up pH. Levels of (2-3) can cause skin
irritation
✳Ideal pH should be between 5.5 and 7
✳If pH is too high, it can burn skin
✳Certain preservatives may not work in high pH
cream or low pH
✳Common buffers are citric acid or Sodium
Hydroxide to adjust up or down.

8. EMULSIFIERS
Emulsifiers allow oil and water to mix together
and not separate.
✳Recommended usage rate of an emulsifier
can be 3% - 5%
✳The HLB value of the emulsifier should match
the HLB requirement of the oil.
✳O/W emulsion: use high HLB emulsifier
✳W/O emulsion: use low HLB emulsifier
✳You can also use a co-emulsifier

9. L O T I O N M A K I N G TO O L S
✳Scale
✳Heat
✳Emulsifier
✳Agitation or Mixer(Rotor/Stator), anchor impeller
✳At least two Stainless Steel Pots
✳Thermometer
✳pH Reader (Litmus paper)
✳Buffers: Acid or Alkaline

10. OTHER COMPONENTS
✳Buffers: Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide
solution
✳Chelating Agents (Sodium Phytate, EDTA)
✳Solubulizers (Polysorbate 20,Peg40
Hydrogenated Castor oil)
✳Emulsion Stability-resist change in its
properties over time
✳Shelf life Prediction – Thermal & Freeze
methods

11. P R E S E R VAT I V E S
✳Preservatives are needed to ensure
that your cream does not go bad.
✳Bacteria grows in the presence of
water and food.
✳Preservative will make your cream to
last more than one week to years and
not grow mold or yeast which can cause
cancer.

12. MORE ABOUT
P R E S E R VAT I V E S
Strongly recommend broad spectrum preservatives
especially in this tropical environment. These
preservatives work against bacteria, yeast and
mold
✳Phenoxyethanol
✳Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
✳Methylparaben/Propylparaben (note concerns)
✳Optiphen Plus
✳And others

13. LABELS AND INCI
✳Design your label to be attractive.
✳List your ingredients in order of percentages
used (high to low)
✳Only list ingredients by INCI :-
✳The International Nomenclature of
Cosmetic Ingredients