Twelve Review

1. 38 N E W S www.galwayadvertiser.ie March 9 2006
UNCORKED
CHATEAU ARTICHOKE
The essential food and wine page for Galway
by Willie Shaw
T
he latest idea to combat the after effects of too
much alcohol is a fruit extracts drink called
‘Security Feel Better’. This is a small 30ml
bottle of extract of artichokes and other ‘secret’ plant
extracts that has been launched in France and claims
More at the Malt
The Malt House, seafood restaurants as we are on roasted vegetables. These were miles north, south, east, or
to disperse alcohol from your body up to 6 times the most westerly coast of Europe served with garlic potatoes and west. Second the general manager
faster than normal. Maybe it does and maybe it does High Street, Galway. in what they imagine are the best stir fried vegetables. The wine Fergus O’Halloran is a sommelier
not, the real problem is that some people are using it I was aware that the kitchen in fishing grounds in Europe. with this course was a moreau who has had some very serious
to convince themselves that they are fit to drive having the Malt House had been On this particular occasion, my chardonnay from France. wine cellars under his control in
consumed alcohol and this is not a good idea. completely gutted after the guest and I choose from ‘The Both of the main courses were the past. All of this experience is
Christmas festivities and that new Seafood Sampler’ menu. Each of excellent and the non-food parts available to the diner and I would
things were planned for the menu. the five courses is matched with a contributed to the excellent always suggest that you ask
As regards the menus, it is carefully selected glass of experience, starched white table someone like Fergus to make a
At least one major French supermarket ‘Auchan’ definitely a case of being spoilt for different white wine and a crème cloths, well chosen plates and suggestion to match your food – no
removed it from sale. Following this the French choice. brulee to finish. The cost is €45.00 dishes that gave extra flourish to matter which end of the budget
Government has totally banned it on the basis that it The choice of menus are:- per person, without wine, or the meal. There is only one you are working off.
could encourage drink driving. The company that Pre-Theatre menu €19.99. This €65.00 per person with wine. The dessert available with the seafood There are some house wines
makes the product has published test results which gives you a choice of starter or menu starts with an oyster sampler menu, this is crème that work better than others
show that a man who drank whiskey plus a full dessert plus a main course. This floating in tomato juice and brulee served with a frontagnac depending on what you eat and
menu is available in the restaurant Absolut vodka. This was followed dessert wine from France. This similarly at the mid to top end of
bottle of wine had a 187 mg reading while 40
from 6pm to 7pm and all night in by a choice of tempura of prawns has become a very popular dessert the scale. Price does not guarantee
minutes later this was down to 80mg (thanks to the bar area. with some of the best mixed salad in Ireland and when executed a good food or wine match,
‘Security Feel Better’????). The only valid use I can There is a very extensive a la leaves I have had, this was properly is very satisfying, as this experience does. So don’t be shy,
think of, would be as an aid to digestion when you carte menu, which shows the ‘feile accompanied by a Japanese dashi one was. ask for advice and if you don’t like
do over indulge but the problem is that if it is for sale bia’ logo (this certifies the food dipping sauce. If you are tempted to spend it, say so, that is what a good
it will encourage drinking and driving. Medical from farm to fork). Some of the The tempura batter was just some serious money on a bottle or restaurant is all about. The Malt
experts have stated they do not know of any more unusual items on offer are perfect and after enquiring about two of wine then the Malt House is House has set a very high
ham hock, Caesar soup, ice-wine the recipe I was told that the probably one of ‘THE’ best places standard and this is good news for
substance that can increase the bodies rate of sorbet, foie grais served with secret is to use cold sparkling to do this for two very good customers who deserve to get the
metabolism. dessert wine, rabbit, duck, and water when making the batter. My reasons. Firstly, their wine list is very best for their hard earned
chargrilled steaks. Also listed are companion had soya and ginger the best in Galway and for many dosh. — Willie Shaw
The current legal limit in Ireland is an 80 Mg level in vegetarian dishes like vegetable infused crab cake, this was also
your blood , but how do you regulate this ? tempura, mushroom crumble, and excellent. The wine which
vegetable curry. accompanied this course was a
It’s like asking people to drive within a specific speed A very interesting dish is the white rioja. Next came a soup
seafood tower. This reminds me of course, of seafood chowder which
limit and having no speedometer. How on earth is the ‘Plateau Fruit de Mere’ that is I declined as I wanted to leave
one supposed to know when you are just over or just a specialty of many French room for the main course. I was
under the limit? The only sensible solution to this restaurants particularly in Paris. offered a consommé and this was
dilemna is ‘if you drink (anything) don’t drive’. It is a tower of prawns, scallops, a revelation. I would make a
crab claws, crab meat, smoked return visit just to have the
With regard to keeping down the hangover factor – salmon, cod, haddock, oysters, and consommé. The soup course is
whatever else is fresh that night. It served with a glass of French
the best technique is to drinks lots and lots of still
costs €59.00 and serves two sauvignon blanc. My companion
water throughout your meal. If you forget, then try people. Having had this dish on a had a superb serving of
to drink 1-2 pints of water before retiring for the previous visit I can heartily champagne and muscat sorbet in a
night. It really does work.If this product goes on recommend it. stunning glass serving dish.
sale here in Ireland, do NOT use it as an aid to drink I would not recommend having It looked at least as good as it
driving. a starter with this dish as there is tasted.
quite a lot of fish to consume. This Main courses were a choice of
is the sort of dish that we should scallops with curried parsnips and
be showcasing to our tourists, a cream sauce or the catch of the
WINE OF THE WEEK most of whom arrive in Galway day. We had one of each; the catch
expecting to find dozens of of the day was sea bass with
MIRONE GARNACHA,
SPAIN 2003 €9.99
GALWAY’S GOURMET GOODIES
A young, fresh and elegant
character to this wine make it
the ideal accompaniment to a
wide range of gourmet dishes.
Connemara lamb that is marinated, then not some of the really awful offerings that are
McGeoghs Ougherard – pressed and hung with heather and other often passed off as an Irish breakfast.
NOW OPEN IN If you live in or close to Oughterard, I am sure
you know McGeoghs, if you live further afield
secret ingredients. When ready it is sliced as
thin as Parma ham. Air dried beef is very
I also sampled his turf smoked kassler,
which is, I think, only produced by three
WOODQUAY then you must make it a point to visit this popular in Germany and in Switzerland, but I butchers in Ireland, the other two make it with
(formerly McDonagh Travel) superb butchers shop. McGeogh’s specialise in believe McGeogh’s air dried lamb is the first of oak smoke. If you are a fan of red cabbage
smoking, curing, making unusual sausages, its kind and is wooing people everywhere he cooked with raisins and vinegar, then add
puddings and much more. I met James brings it. Rumors have it that the world’s top some kassler for a great winter dinner. His
McGeogh and had a long conversation about golfers will be eating large amounts of this at pork roulade is the best ready made dinner
all types of products that he is producing in the Ryder Cup village in Straffan this year. available, tender pork surrounded by sausage
Oughterard. One of James’ serving suggestions is to meat, cheese and pastry. Pop it in the oven and
When I say conversation, I mean I mostly serve it with a fresh fig cut in half, and then your visitors will think you have been
listened to James as he is so enthuastic about filed with cream and horseradish. I spotted a preparing it all day. Finally you should sample
what he does, it was like a conducted tour, very dark coloured piece of dried lamb the Mossfield organic cheese from Offaly. Try
sampling the brines he uses, checking out the hanging in the drying room (practically black melting some on a griddle and serving it with
air dried lamb, smelling the herbs, tasting in colour), he told me it was six-years old and a the air dried lamb.
UNCORKED is brought to you weekly in association products at different stages of maturity . regular winner at international competitions. It was interesting to see two customers
James spent six years in Germany where he James also makes heather salamis, smoked arrive when I was there and they chatted away
with HARVEST OFF-LICENCES got a degree in butchering. The region where sirloin, and speciality sausages. I tried the in German to James, obviously the word gets
he was based is seriously proud of its air dried lamb sausage and the apple plum and cider around. If you can’t make it to Oughterard and
meats and exports such large amounts all over sausage. Both were top class. I could see an I urge you to make the effort, then some of his
the world that it is a major industry in the Irish breakfast on a different level, free range meats are available in Sheridan’s Cheese
area. He regularly goes back there and enters fried egg, Connemara lamb sausages, flat mongers. If there is ever a reason for positive
competitions which he seems to have had more mushrooms and a slice of prime rasher, all discrimination towards family run businesses,
HARVEST OFF LICENCE than the average amount of success with. served with freshly baked brown bread. this is it – try asking the assistant in a
The product which he is most keen on at the If we are to grow our tourist business, this is supermarket, how long the sirloin was hung
Woodquay, Raven Tce & Eyre Square, Galway & Oranmore
moment is his air dried lamb, this is the type of product we should be serving and for??? — Willie Shaw
OPEN 7 NIGHTS ‘TIL 11PM