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Ham	
  drying	
  cellars	
  
https://www.jamonesjuanpedrodomecq.com/en	
  
Historically,	
  ham	
  drying	
  cellars	
  for	
  the	
  production	
  of	
  100%	
  Iberico	
  bellota	
  ham	
  in	
  Spain,	
  were	
  
only	
  located	
  in	
  certain	
  areas,	
  that	
  due	
  to	
  their	
  very	
  special	
  microclimates,	
  allowed	
  for	
  a	
  natural	
  
drying	
  process	
  to	
  take	
  place.	
  The	
  curing	
  of	
  the	
  hams	
  requires	
  certain	
  conditions	
  as	
  regards	
  
temperature	
  control	
  and	
  humidity,	
  that	
  traditionally	
  were	
  only	
  managed	
  by	
  the	
  opening	
  and	
  
closing	
  of	
  windows	
  and	
  repositioning	
  of	
  the	
  pieces.	
  
Nowadays,	
  many	
  ham	
  industries	
  have	
  abandoned	
  the	
  traditional	
  techniques	
  and	
  they	
  have	
  
implanted	
  artificial	
  drying	
  methods,	
  which	
  require	
  air	
  conditioning	
  machines	
  for	
  the	
  control	
  of	
  
both	
  humidity	
  and	
  temperature.	
  The	
  final	
  result	
  is	
  not	
  bad,	
  although	
  the	
  pieces	
  risk	
  drying	
  too	
  
quickly	
  and	
  they	
  can	
  become	
  a	
  bit	
  wooden,	
  but	
  it	
  is	
  never	
  the	
  same	
  as	
  the	
  traditional	
  method,	
  
which	
  has	
  been	
  impossible	
  to	
  match	
  when	
  we	
  are	
  talking	
  about	
  the	
  best	
  quality	
  hams	
  in	
  the	
  
market:	
  100%	
  Iberico	
  bellota	
  ham,	
  cured	
  for	
  a	
  period	
  of	
  well	
  over	
  3	
  years.	
  
It	
  is	
  true	
  that	
  the	
  traditional	
  method	
  requires	
  more	
  personnel,	
  and	
  constant	
  dedication,	
  but	
  it	
  
allows	
  for	
  the	
  individual	
  care	
  of	
  each	
  piece,	
  as	
  they	
  are	
  rotated	
  and	
  reallocated	
  in	
  the	
  cellars,	
  
according	
  to	
  their	
  exact	
  curing	
  point,	
  verified	
  manually	
  by	
  the	
  Master	
  Ham	
  maker.	
  This	
  is	
  why	
  
in	
  certain	
  small	
  areas,	
  such	
  as	
  Jabugo,	
  they	
  continue	
  to	
  work	
  with	
  the	
  traditional	
  method	
  as	
  
regards	
  the	
  drying,	
  although	
  of	
  course	
  certain	
  aspects,	
  such	
  as	
  traceability	
  are	
  now	
  
computerized.	
  
In	
  order	
  to	
  reach	
  the	
  perfect	
  curing	
  point	
  of	
  the	
  best	
  ham,	
  using	
  only	
  traditional	
  techniques,	
  
temperature	
  and	
  humidity	
  are	
  permanently	
  controlled,	
  but	
  in	
  a	
  very	
  subtle	
  way,	
  involving	
  only	
  
the	
  opening	
  and	
  closing	
  of	
  windows.	
  The	
  location	
  of	
  the	
  drying	
  cellar	
  is	
  of	
  course	
  essential,	
  as	
  
only	
  certain	
  special	
  microclimates	
  such	
  as	
  that	
  in	
  the	
  Jabugo	
  and	
  Sierra	
  de	
  Huelva	
  area	
  will	
  
allow	
  us	
  to	
  obtain	
  a	
  perfect	
  curing	
  of	
  the	
  hams.	
  	
  
In	
  order	
  to	
  get	
  a	
  perfectly	
  cured	
  final	
  product,	
  we`ll	
  have	
  to	
  go	
  through	
  a	
  very	
  long	
  process,	
  
starting	
  with	
  what	
  is	
  called	
  the	
  drying	
  period	
  and	
  finishing	
  in	
  the	
  underground	
  cellars.	
  The	
  first	
  
takes	
  place	
  directly	
  after	
  the	
  post-­‐salting	
  is	
  completed.	
  The	
  hams	
  are	
  put	
  in	
  a	
  drying	
  room	
  
(“secadero	
  natural”)	
  that	
  will	
  be	
  warmer	
  and	
  more	
  light	
  and	
  airy	
  than	
  the	
  lower	
  cellars.	
  In	
  this	
  
first	
  period,	
  of	
  about	
  6	
  months,	
  the	
  hams	
  have	
  to	
  begin	
  to	
  sweat.	
  The	
  fat	
  melts	
  and	
  the	
  hams	
  
loose	
  nearly	
  20%	
  of	
  their	
  original	
  size.	
  This	
  process	
  is	
  very	
  important	
  for	
  the	
  concentration	
  of	
  
the	
  aroma	
  in	
  100%	
  Ibérico	
  bellota	
  hams,	
  but	
  if	
  we	
  let	
  it	
  go	
  on	
  too	
  long,	
  the	
  hams	
  will	
  harden	
  
and	
  dry.	
  The	
  secret	
  of	
  the	
  best	
  100%	
  Iberico	
  bellota	
  ham	
  is	
  that	
  meat	
  remains	
  fresh	
  even	
  after	
  
a	
  curing	
  process	
  of	
  over	
  4	
  years.	
  This	
  is	
  where	
  the	
  second	
  curing	
  period	
  is	
  essential,	
  the	
  hams	
  
will	
  spend	
  more	
  than	
  2	
  years	
  in	
  an	
  underground	
  cellar,	
  darker	
  and	
  with	
  a	
  low	
  and	
  constant	
  
temperature	
  all	
  year	
  round.	
  Here	
  the	
  hams	
  will	
  continue	
  to	
  sweat	
  but	
  very	
  slowly	
  and	
  they	
  will	
  
be	
  moved	
  around	
  the	
  cellar	
  in	
  order	
  to	
  guarantee	
  a	
  consistent	
  curing	
  point.	
  
All	
  along	
  the	
  curing	
  process	
  the	
  hams	
  are	
  covered	
  in	
  different	
  types	
  of	
  moss.	
  This	
  is	
  a	
  natural	
  
process	
  that	
  helps	
  along	
  the	
  drying	
  of	
  the	
  hams,	
  and	
  in	
  no	
  way	
  deteriorates	
  the	
  product.	
  The	
  
moss	
  is	
  essential	
  for	
  the	
  final	
  taste	
  and	
  aroma	
  of	
  the	
  ham,	
  but	
  its	
  growth	
  must	
  be	
  strictly	
  
controlled	
  to	
  guarantee	
  that	
  everything	
  is	
  correct.	
  The	
  different	
  types	
  of	
  moss	
  that	
  proliferate	
  
in	
  a	
  certain	
  area,	
  as	
  compared	
  to	
  others,	
  will	
  also	
  determine	
  a	
  subtle	
  difference	
  in	
  the	
  taste	
  of	
  
the	
  ham	
  (such	
  as	
  Guijuelo	
  vs.	
  Jabugo).	
  
So	
  it	
  is	
  not	
  the	
  moss	
  that	
  can	
  be	
  dangerous	
  in	
  the	
  curing	
  process,	
  but	
  the	
  parasites	
  that	
  can	
  
feed	
  on	
  the	
  moss.	
  This	
  is	
  the	
  main	
  risk	
  in	
  the	
  long	
  curing	
  period	
  of	
  the	
  ham,	
  as	
  if	
  the	
  parasites	
  
reach	
  the	
  meat	
  getting	
  through	
  the	
  outward	
  skin,	
  they	
  will	
  ruin	
  the	
  ham.	
  The	
  plague	
  control	
  
measures	
  in	
  the	
  ham	
  drying	
  cellars	
  are	
  therefore	
  very	
  strict.	
  Hygiene	
  is	
  of	
  the	
  essence.	
  The	
  
hams	
  have	
  to	
  be	
  treated	
  to	
  avoid	
  the	
  plagues,	
  but	
  always	
  with	
  totally	
  natural	
  techniques,	
  such	
  
as	
  their	
  painting	
  with	
  hot	
  vegetal	
  oils,	
  that	
  will	
  kill	
  any	
  parasites	
  while	
  not	
  affecting	
  the	
  flavor	
  
of	
  the	
  ham.	
  	
  
The	
  most	
  common	
  parasite	
  in	
  ham	
  drying	
  cellars	
  is	
  known	
  as	
  “piojillo”.	
  This	
  parasite	
  is	
  much	
  
more	
  aggressive	
  when	
  we	
  are	
  dealing	
  with	
  “cebo”	
  ham	
  (hams	
  from	
  intensive	
  bred	
  pigs,	
  
feeding	
  on	
  industrial	
  feeds),	
  than	
  when	
  we	
  have	
  before	
  us	
  “bellota”	
  (acorn)	
  hams.	
  The	
  acorn	
  
fat	
  actually	
  acts	
  in	
  a	
  certain	
  way	
  as	
  a	
  repellent	
  of	
  this	
  parasite.	
  The	
  effects	
  of	
  the	
  parasite	
  are	
  
not	
  a	
  health	
  risk,	
  but	
  they	
  do	
  influence	
  the	
  flavor	
  of	
  the	
  ham.	
  
It	
  is	
  really	
  unique	
  to	
  find	
  in	
  these	
  times	
  a	
  product	
  that	
  is	
  made	
  employing	
  only	
  such	
  traditional	
  
methods	
  and	
  over	
  such	
  a	
  lengthy	
  period	
  of	
  time,	
  so	
  this	
  is	
  of	
  course	
  reflected	
  in	
  the	
  final	
  price,	
  
but	
  at	
  least	
  it	
  is	
  always	
  good	
  to	
  know	
  why!	
  
	
  
https://www.jamonesjuanpedrodomecq.com/en	
  

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Ham drying Cellars

  • 1. Ham  drying  cellars   https://www.jamonesjuanpedrodomecq.com/en   Historically,  ham  drying  cellars  for  the  production  of  100%  Iberico  bellota  ham  in  Spain,  were   only  located  in  certain  areas,  that  due  to  their  very  special  microclimates,  allowed  for  a  natural   drying  process  to  take  place.  The  curing  of  the  hams  requires  certain  conditions  as  regards   temperature  control  and  humidity,  that  traditionally  were  only  managed  by  the  opening  and   closing  of  windows  and  repositioning  of  the  pieces.   Nowadays,  many  ham  industries  have  abandoned  the  traditional  techniques  and  they  have   implanted  artificial  drying  methods,  which  require  air  conditioning  machines  for  the  control  of   both  humidity  and  temperature.  The  final  result  is  not  bad,  although  the  pieces  risk  drying  too   quickly  and  they  can  become  a  bit  wooden,  but  it  is  never  the  same  as  the  traditional  method,   which  has  been  impossible  to  match  when  we  are  talking  about  the  best  quality  hams  in  the   market:  100%  Iberico  bellota  ham,  cured  for  a  period  of  well  over  3  years.   It  is  true  that  the  traditional  method  requires  more  personnel,  and  constant  dedication,  but  it   allows  for  the  individual  care  of  each  piece,  as  they  are  rotated  and  reallocated  in  the  cellars,   according  to  their  exact  curing  point,  verified  manually  by  the  Master  Ham  maker.  This  is  why   in  certain  small  areas,  such  as  Jabugo,  they  continue  to  work  with  the  traditional  method  as   regards  the  drying,  although  of  course  certain  aspects,  such  as  traceability  are  now   computerized.   In  order  to  reach  the  perfect  curing  point  of  the  best  ham,  using  only  traditional  techniques,   temperature  and  humidity  are  permanently  controlled,  but  in  a  very  subtle  way,  involving  only   the  opening  and  closing  of  windows.  The  location  of  the  drying  cellar  is  of  course  essential,  as   only  certain  special  microclimates  such  as  that  in  the  Jabugo  and  Sierra  de  Huelva  area  will   allow  us  to  obtain  a  perfect  curing  of  the  hams.     In  order  to  get  a  perfectly  cured  final  product,  we`ll  have  to  go  through  a  very  long  process,   starting  with  what  is  called  the  drying  period  and  finishing  in  the  underground  cellars.  The  first   takes  place  directly  after  the  post-­‐salting  is  completed.  The  hams  are  put  in  a  drying  room   (“secadero  natural”)  that  will  be  warmer  and  more  light  and  airy  than  the  lower  cellars.  In  this   first  period,  of  about  6  months,  the  hams  have  to  begin  to  sweat.  The  fat  melts  and  the  hams   loose  nearly  20%  of  their  original  size.  This  process  is  very  important  for  the  concentration  of   the  aroma  in  100%  Ibérico  bellota  hams,  but  if  we  let  it  go  on  too  long,  the  hams  will  harden   and  dry.  The  secret  of  the  best  100%  Iberico  bellota  ham  is  that  meat  remains  fresh  even  after   a  curing  process  of  over  4  years.  This  is  where  the  second  curing  period  is  essential,  the  hams   will  spend  more  than  2  years  in  an  underground  cellar,  darker  and  with  a  low  and  constant   temperature  all  year  round.  Here  the  hams  will  continue  to  sweat  but  very  slowly  and  they  will   be  moved  around  the  cellar  in  order  to  guarantee  a  consistent  curing  point.   All  along  the  curing  process  the  hams  are  covered  in  different  types  of  moss.  This  is  a  natural   process  that  helps  along  the  drying  of  the  hams,  and  in  no  way  deteriorates  the  product.  The   moss  is  essential  for  the  final  taste  and  aroma  of  the  ham,  but  its  growth  must  be  strictly   controlled  to  guarantee  that  everything  is  correct.  The  different  types  of  moss  that  proliferate  
  • 2. in  a  certain  area,  as  compared  to  others,  will  also  determine  a  subtle  difference  in  the  taste  of   the  ham  (such  as  Guijuelo  vs.  Jabugo).   So  it  is  not  the  moss  that  can  be  dangerous  in  the  curing  process,  but  the  parasites  that  can   feed  on  the  moss.  This  is  the  main  risk  in  the  long  curing  period  of  the  ham,  as  if  the  parasites   reach  the  meat  getting  through  the  outward  skin,  they  will  ruin  the  ham.  The  plague  control   measures  in  the  ham  drying  cellars  are  therefore  very  strict.  Hygiene  is  of  the  essence.  The   hams  have  to  be  treated  to  avoid  the  plagues,  but  always  with  totally  natural  techniques,  such   as  their  painting  with  hot  vegetal  oils,  that  will  kill  any  parasites  while  not  affecting  the  flavor   of  the  ham.     The  most  common  parasite  in  ham  drying  cellars  is  known  as  “piojillo”.  This  parasite  is  much   more  aggressive  when  we  are  dealing  with  “cebo”  ham  (hams  from  intensive  bred  pigs,   feeding  on  industrial  feeds),  than  when  we  have  before  us  “bellota”  (acorn)  hams.  The  acorn   fat  actually  acts  in  a  certain  way  as  a  repellent  of  this  parasite.  The  effects  of  the  parasite  are   not  a  health  risk,  but  they  do  influence  the  flavor  of  the  ham.   It  is  really  unique  to  find  in  these  times  a  product  that  is  made  employing  only  such  traditional   methods  and  over  such  a  lengthy  period  of  time,  so  this  is  of  course  reflected  in  the  final  price,   but  at  least  it  is  always  good  to  know  why!     https://www.jamonesjuanpedrodomecq.com/en