Industrial attachment of sadma fashion wear ltd. (2)

Industrial Training Report Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.
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INDUSTRIAL TRAINING REPORT
Course Code: TXE-429
Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.
Md. Kamrul Hasan
B.Sc in Textile Engineering (BUBT)
ID: 10112107047
Intake: 2nd
Section: 02
Date of Published: January, 2015
Mobile No. 01713640363
Email: md_kamrul14310@yahoo.com

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Table of Content Page
1. Chapter One (Company Profile) 7-16
1.1. Company Profile at a glance
1.2. Office Staff:
1.3. Quality Policy
1.4. Welfare Facilities
1.5. Compliance
1.6. Recruitment policy
1.7. Different Departments
1.8. Present Buyers
1.9. Logo of Present Buyer
1.10. Certification
1.11. Production Capacity
1.12. Production Area
1.13. Location of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd
1.14. Basic Layout of Whole Factory
1.15. Factory Building of Sadma
2. Chapter Two (Manpower Management System) 17-21
2.1. Manpower Management System
2.2. Management Medium
2.3. Shifting
2.4 Section Wise Manpower
2.5. Duties and Responsibilities of Different Post
2.6. Deputy General Manager (DGM) Production
2.7. Manager
2.8. Senior Production Officer
2.9. Production Officer
2.10. Shift In charge
3. Chapter Three (Production Planning & Control) 22-23
3.1. Basic Procedure of Production Planning & Control

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4. Chapter Four (Raw-Materials) 24-28
4.1. Main Raw- Materials
4.2. Type of Raw-Materials
4.3. Chemical Use in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd
4.4. Dyes use in Sadma Fashion wear Ltd.
4.5. Remark
5. Chapter Five (Working Sequence of Knitting Section) 29-33
5.1. Working Sequence of Knitting Section
5.2. Working Sequence of Batch Preparation
5.4. Working Sequence of Finishing Section
5.5. Working Sequence of Garments Manufacturing Section
5.6. Production Parameter of Knitting
5.7. Production Parameter of Dyeing
5.8. Remark
6. Chapter Six (Knitting Section) 34-57
6.1. Layout Plan of Knitting Section
6.2. Fabric
6.3. Knitting Fabric
6.4. Classification of Knitting
6.5. Process Flow Chart of Knitting
6.6. Different Fabric Characteristics & End Uses
6.7. Machine List of Knitting Section in Sadma
6.8. Different Parts in Knitting Machine
6.9. Types of knitted Fabric Produce in Sadma
6.10. Design Development by Changing Different Cam Setting
6.11. Considerable Points to Produce Knitted Fabrics
6.12. Production Calculation
6.13. Production Parameter
6.14. Important Parameter & Their Effect in Fabric Production
6.15. Faults with their Causes and Remedies in Knitting
6.16. Quality Assurance System of Knitting
6.17. Fabric Inspection
6.18. Fabric Inspection Machine
6.19. Faults are detected By Inspection
6.20. Point Distribution for Different kinds of Fault
7. Chapter Seven (Batching) 58-61
7.1. Batching

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7.2. Batch Process Follow-Up
7.3. General Instructions for the Final Inspection
7.4. Object of Batching
7.5. Types of Batching
7.6. Proper Batching Criteria
7.7. Machine in Batch Section
8. Chapter Eight (Color Measurement System) 62-72
8.12. Color Measurement of Standard Sample
8.12. Machine Specification in Section
9. Chapter Nine (Dyeing Section) 73-102
9.1. Layout of Dyeing Floor
9.2. Dyeing Machine Specification
9.3. Specification and Images of Dyeing & Finishing Machine
9.4. Operation Procedure
9.5. Dyeing Process Definition
9.6. Dyeing process of Cotton
9.7. Dyeing Process of CVC of PC
9.8. Process Sequence of Critical Shade (Turquoise Color)
9.9. Some Important Parameter for Dyeing
9.10. Common Dyeing Fault with their Remedies
10. Chapter Ten (Finishing Section) 103-111
10.1. Introduction of Finishing
10.2. Objective of Finishing
10.3. Different Finishing Machine in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.
10.4. Observation of Different Finishing Machine
10.5. Squeezer of De-Watering Machine
10.6. Dryer
10.7. Tube Compactor
10.8. Slitting Machine
10.9. Stenter Machine
10.10. Open Compactor
10.12. Fault Point System
11. Chapter Eleven (Garments Section) 112-132
11.1. Garments
11.2. Garment Machinery & Equipment
11.3. Garments Manufacturing Process
11.4. Sewing Sequence of T- Shirt

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11.5. Sewing Sequence of a Polo Shirt
11.6. Garments Accessories
11.7. Description of Process Sequences
12.5. Sewing Problems
11.8.Garments Finishing
11.9. Final Inspection
11.10. Garments Merchandising
11.11. Images of Garments Section
12. Chapter Twelve (Quality Section) 133-147
12.1. Quality Control
12.2. Process Flow Chart of Final Inspection
12.3. Objects of Quality Control
12.4. List of Equipments
12.5 Quality Management System
12.6. Textile Testing for Knit Fabric
12.7. Quality Control Flow Chart
12.8. Quality Assurance
12.9. Some Test procedure are given below
13. Chapter Thirteen (Quality Section) 148-152
13.1. Maintenance
13.2. Objective of Maintenance
13.3. Types of Maintenance
13.4. Maintenance Tools & Equipments
13.5. Maintenance Procedure
13.6. Remarks
14. Chapter Fourteen (Utility& ETP Section) 153-161
14.1. Available Utility Facilities
14.2. Effluent Treatment Plant
14.3. Classification of ETP
14.4. Using Chemicals in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.
14.5. Product Quality Checked
14.6. Overall view of ETP Plant
14.8. Remark
15. Chapter Fifteen (Marketing Section) 162-165
15.1. Marketing Activities
15.2. Buyer‟s Compliance

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Introduction
The term “Textile” derived from the Latin word “texture” meaning to weave. Textile has
traditionally meant a woven fabric. Most textiles are produced by twisting fibers into yarns and
knitting or weaving the yarns into a fabric. This method of making cloth has been used for thousands
of years. By achieving practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the
technical field. For any technical education, practical experience is almost equally necessary in
association with the theoretical knowledge. The industrial attachment is the most effective process of
achieving the practical experience. It provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production
management, productivity, evaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, production
planning & control, production cost analysis, inventory control, purchasing, utilities and
Maintenance of machinery and their operation technique etc. Industrial attachment is an essential
part of four years B.Sc. in Textile technology course of Bangladesh University of Business and
Technology. We had the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment with Sadma Fashion Wear
Ltd. During 8 weeks long attachment, we studied the man, machine, material aspects of the circular
knitting section, knit dyeing section quality control section, planning section, grey fabric inspection.
According to my studies there we have prepared the following report and would like to present.

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CHAPTER-ONE
Company Profile

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1.1. Company Profile at a glance
1. Factory: Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.
2. Factory Address: Mouchak, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh.
Phone: 88-02-9298027-8, 88-02-9298048.
3. HeadOffice: Oriental Plaza, house # 3, Flat # B1, Road # 4, Block # F, Banani, Dhaka,
Bangladesh. Phone : 88-02-8834825, 88-02-9871911
Fax # 88-02-9870502
Email: commerce@sadmafashion.com / commerce.sf@gmail.com
4. Chairman:Md. Lokman Hossain
Mobile : 01713-038619,01713-245582
5. Managing Director: Md. Nasir Uddin. Mobile : 01713-245588
Email: nasir@sadmafashion.com / nasir.sf@gmail.com
6. Director: Jahir Uddin Mamun. Mobile : 01713-085117
Email: mamun@sadmafashion.com / mamun.sf@gmail.com
7. Contact Person:
A. Md. Al-Amin, General Manager, Garments. Mobile: 01713-245585
Email: garments@sadmafashion.com /garments.sf@gmail.com
B. Roushan Zamir Rony, General Manager, Dyeing. Mobile : 01912-201117 , 01713-245593.
Email: dyeing@sadmafashion.com , dyeing.sf@gmail.com
C. Md. Masudur Rahman, General Manager, Knitting. Mobile: 01711676758
Email: knitting@sadmafashion.com
D. Md. Majharul Kabir (Tito) Sr. Manager (Dyeing & Finishing).Mobile: 01715393717
Email: tiootex27@yahoo.com
8. Year of Establishment: 07.01.2002
9. Paid Up Capital: 40, 000, 00. 00
10. EPB Registration: 4224
11. Certifications: ISO, BSCI, Oak-Tex, IAF,WRAR, UKAS
12. Production Capacity: Dyeing & Finishing 450 tons per month.
Garments 9,000,00 pcs per month
Knitting 360 tons per month

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13. Bank: SOCIAL ISLAMI BANK LIMITED.
Foreign Exchange Branch,
Motijheel C/A, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
TEL: 9571254 FAX: 9571100
Factory A/C NO: 13300009963
Bank Swift No: SOIVBDDHFEX
14. Product Mix: Single jersey plain fabric, Pique, Single lacoste, 1x1 rib, 2x2 rib, Plain interlock
15. Main Product: T-shirt, Polo shirt and different types of Men‟s, Lady‟s & Kid‟s wear in varies
kinds of knit fabric.
16. Year End Turnover: 50Million USD
1.2. Office Staff:
A large team of Technical personnel are directly working, assisting the workers &
Coordinating pattern, cutting, sewing, quality & finishing-packing. About 200 people are working as a
Supervisor, Line chief, Floor in-charge, Section Manager.
1.3. Quality Policy
Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is totally committed to provide quality products that always meet
the needs and expectations of customers for reliability, safety, and economy and on time delivery of
shipments. To achieve this objective, Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. provides all the necessary resources
to ensure a well-equipped and adequately trained, and experienced manpower to take proper
care of customer requirements. Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. Emphasized that quality is the shared
responsibility of its entire staff. The company ensures that all personnel are familiar with, and work
to the company‟s work practices as well in conformity with the legal and other obligatory
requirements and are determined to comply with the requirements of Buyer‟s expectation e.g. code of
conduct, social compliance and continually improve its production and Quality Assurance
Department. To manufacture quality products and Customer satisfaction is the company‟s goal.
1.4. Welfare Facilities
 Induction of workers welfare committee aimed at improving workers morale, job Satisfaction
& attendance.
 Canteen facilities.
 Subsidized lunch for staff.
 Free snacks for workers.
 Full time free of medical service provide by a professional doctor.
 Provision for day care center for workers children, annual picnic.
 Cultural function.
 Each floor has sufficient number of washroom.
 Each floor has sufficient lighting to facilitate production.
 A large dining hall is in the factory including pure drinking water & well sitting arrangement.

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 Maternity leave & benefit for female workers are provided as per labor law.
1.5. Compliance
Factory are obeying and maintaining international and local law‟s, Human rights, Social
compliance, Labor law and other rules and instruction by related department of Government.
1.6. Recruitment policy
 No child labor in this factory.
 No gender discrimination in recruitment procedure.
 There is no force labor.
1.7. Different Departments
 Knitting
 Dyeing
 Finishing
 Garments
 Utility
 Maintenance
 Quality Assurance
 Planning
 Research & Development
 Admin
 HR & Compliance
1.8. Present Buyers
 C & A(Germany)
 Zellers (Canada)
 George (U.K)
 Sears (Canada)
 Sainsbury (U.K)
 Diplomat Fashion (U.S.A)
 Matalan (U.K)
 Artextyl (U.S.A / France)
 S F G (Australia)
 Xios (U.S.A)
 Vayla (U.S.A)
 Walmart (U.S.A)
 Emporio Junior(Italy)
 Pierre Cardin (Italy)
 Carrefour Import Sas (France)

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1.9. Logo of Present Buyer:

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1.10. Certification
ISO 9001:2008, WRAP.
Member: Bangladesh Garments Manufactures & Exporters Association (BGMEA)

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1.11. Production Capacity
Production Capacity Knitting: 12000 Kgs Per Day
Production Capacity Dyeing & Finishing: 8000 Kgs Per Day
Production Capacity Garments: 20000 Pcs. Per Day
Production lead time: 45-90 Days
1.12. Production Area
Knitting space: 5000 sq. feet
Dyeing space: 34000 sq. feet
Finishing Goods & Store: 5500 sq. feet
2nd Floor: 5500 sq. feet
3rd Floor: 6500 sq. feet
4th Floor: 6500 sq. feet
Other space: 2000 sq. feet
Total space: = 77000 sq. feet

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1.13. Location of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd
Figure: Location of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

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1.14. Basic Layout of Whole Factory
Figure: Basic Layout of Whole Factory.

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1.15. Factory Building of Sadma
Figure: Factory Building of Sadma.

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CHAPTER-TWO
Manpower Management

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2.1. Manpower Management System
The Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. committed to the best human workplace practices. Their goal is
to continuously improve human resource policies & procedures through education, training,
communication and employees improvement.
2.2. Management Medium
 Intercom Telephone.
 Fax.
 E-mail.
 Written letter & papers.
 Oral.
2.3. Shifting
In Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. the whole day production time is divided into 3 shifts. Per shift consists
of 8 hours.
Shift Duration
Shift A
6:00 am- 2:00 pm
Shift B
2:00pm – 10:00 pm
Shift C 10.00pm-6.00am

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2.4 Section Wise Manpower
Department Manpower
Knitting 90
Dyeing & Finishing 300
Lab & QC 25
Garments 800
Power, Boiler ,Utility & Maintenance 15
Inventory 15
Administration 25
Security 30
Others 20
Total 1320

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2.5. Duties and Responsibilities of Different Post
G.M in Dyeing and Finishing Section
 Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
 Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.
 Check the different log books and report to management.
 Check the plan to control the best output.
 To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production.
 Control the Manager, Asst. Manager, Senior Production Officer, Production Officer, in-
charge, supervisor of dyeing and finishing section.
2.6. Deputy General Manager (DGM) Production
 Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.
 Check the different log books in different areas and report to management.
 Check the plan to control the best output.
 To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production.
 Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.
 Any other work as and when required.
2.7. Manager
 To supervise the personal working under him
 To plan the sequence of production
 To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems.
 To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production.
 To follow up the instruction of Managing Director and Executive Director as well.
2.8. Senior Production Officer
 Batch preparation and pH check.
 Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check
 Write loading/unloading time from machine.
 Program making, sample checking color measurement.
 Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.
 Any other work as and when required.

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2.9. Production Officer
 To collect the necessary information and infrastructure from the previous shift for the
smooth running of the section.
 To match production sample with target shade.
 To match production sample lot sample matching next production.
 To observed dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.
 To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/Gm for necessary action.
 To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.
 To sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM
 To execute the overall floor work.
 To maintain loading/unloading paper.
2.10. Shift In charge:
 To follow the workers movement.
 Should discuss with the production Officer about what is happening.
 To maintain the production sequence.
 To check the sample at certain time interval.

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CHAPTER-THREE
Production Planning and
Control

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3.1. Basic Procedure of Production Planning & Control
A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is complete within the required
time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. Planning gives a scheduled task and
control completes it successfully. But production planning and control is not an easy task. Its basic
working procedure is as follows-
A. Taking order form marketing division ,
B. Analyzing the orders
C. Planning for knitting the fabric
D. Planning for dyeing the fabric
E. Planning for finishing the fabric
It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes the order is
planned only for finishing the materials or only for dyeing the goods. Then some steps are
minimizing for planning.
A. Taking order from the marketing division
Marketing division supplied fabric orders to the planning and control division by a specific
format.
B. Analyzing the orders
After getting the fabric order, this section analyzes the orders according to buyers order
quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.) delivery date etc. This section plans
for required quantity of fabric to be knitted, knitting balance, fabric to be dyed, dyeing balance RFD
(ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivery fabric & delivery balance.
C. Planning for knitting:
This section plans for knitting production. It selects m/c for knitting the fabric, no of m/c to be
used, type of yarn used, from which source of yarn will be collected, required GSM, width etc. It
also gives delivery date of knitted fabric.
D. Planning for dyeing of the fabric
Production planning for dyeing is called "Batch Plan". Batch plan is prepared according to
m/c capacity, no. of nozzle batch no, fabric construction, color, width, GSM and priority of delivery
etc. and written in a batch card.
E. Planning for finishing of the fabric
Finishing schedule is same as dyeing. After dyeing, materials go to the finishing section with
the batch plan. The fabric can be finished in the open line finish or tube line finish. Finishing line
will be selected according to the type of the fabric to be finished. Finishing data is written to the
batch card and is informed to the planning section. However this section always forces to all the
departments to finish all the work within the delivery time given by the buyers. Thus, it plays a very
important role in the success of the company.

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Chapter-Four
Raw Material, Dyes & Chemical

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4.1. Main Raw- Materials
Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital
role in continuous production and high quality fabric.
4.2. Type of Raw-Materials
A. Yarn
B. Fabric
C. Dye stuff
D. Chemical and auxiliaries.
A. Yarn
The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of different
count are used. Both carded and combed yarns are used for knitting.
Generally used yarn and yarn count
Yarn Type Yarn Count
Cotton 24s
, 26s
, 28s
, 30s
, 32s
, 34s
, 40s
.
CVC 24s
, 26s
, 28s
, 30s
, 32s
.
Grey Melange 24s
, 26s
, 28s
, 30s
, 32s
.
PC(65%Polyester & 35%Cotton) 24s
, 26s
, 28s
, 30s
.
Spandex yarn 20D, 40D, 70D.
B. Sources
The required yarns are supply from
Cotton Yarn
Name of the spinning Mills Location
Gulshan Spinning Ltd. Gazipur
J K Spinning Gazipur
N Z Textile Rupgonj,Narayangonj.
Tamijuddin Textile mill Ltd. Konabari, Gazipur
Shajahan Spinning Mills Shreepur,Gazipur
R N Spinning Gazipur.

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Badsha Spinning Gazipur
Hanif Spinning Gazipur
Shirin Spinning Ltd. Shreepur, Gazipur
Pakiza spinning Narshindi
Sqaure Spinning Valuka, Mymensingh
Lycra
 Singapore
 Korea
 Indonesia
 Japan
Fabric:
 Single jersey
 Single jersey with lycra
 Polo pique
 Single lacoste
 Interlock
 Interlock with lycra
 Fleece
 Rib
 Rib with lycra
 1×1Rib
 2×1Rib
 2×2Rib
 Different types of Collar & Cuff
 Twill tape
4.3. Chemical Use in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd
Basic Chemical
Acetic Acid
Sulphuric Acid
Caustic Soda
Soda ash
Hydrogen peroxide
Formic Acid
Bleaching Agent 50%H2O2
Enzyme
Gold RSL
Biozyme
Rezyme
P200

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Sequestering Agent
PS cone
HRO
E3R
Anti foaming Agent
ATS
UDF
Antimusol FFC
Leveling agent
CFTR
Ladi
L.Quest
Stabilizer
Info ST
Best
Salt Glubar salt Anti creasing Agent Best Ant
Detergent
Sirix 2UD
Info NGE
BGL
Peroxid Killer Infozyme
Softener
4D
CSB
HD
Reducing Agent Hydrose(Na2S2O4)
Fixing Agent
ECO
Polyfix AC
Optifix EC
Brightening Agent
4BK
BVB
Washing Agent
Best
Info RW
Innocol RD
Whitening Agent
Uvitex BAM
Uvitex BHV
Synowhite
4.4. Dyes use in Sadma Fashion wear Ltd.
SI.
No
Dye name Origin SI.
No
Dye name Origin
1 Hellocron Red
HXF(Dis
China 21 Fucozol Blue EBL China
2 Hellocron Blue HXF China 22 Fucozol Blue EXN China
3 Hellocron Navy HXF China 23 Fucozol Blue RSPL China
4 Hellocron Black HXF China 24 Fucozol T-Blue G China
5 Hellocron Yellow
Brown HXF
China 25 Fucozol N-Blue NBF China
6 Hellocron Yellow
6GSL
China 26 Fucozol N-Blue USB China
7 Hellocron Navy Blue
ECOR
China 27 Fucozol Black BG China
8 Hellocron Orange ERL China 28 Fucozol Orange D2R China
9 Hellocron Black ECOR China 29 Remazol Yellow RR Germany

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10 Hellocron Blue BGE China 30 Remazol Red RR Germany
11 Hellocron Red FB China 31 Remazol Blue RR Germany
12 Fucozol Yellow 3RF China 32 Remazol Orange RR Germany
13 Fucozol Yellow L3R China 33 Remazol Yellow 3GL Germany
14 Fucozol Yellow UCF China 34 Remazol T-Blue G Germany
15 Fucozo Yellow UCX China 35 Remazol Blue RSPL Germany
16 Fucozol Red 3BF China 36 Reactive Yellow 3RE China
17 Fucozol Red L3B China 37 Reactive Red 3BE China
18 Fucozol Red UCX China 38 Reactive Yellow 4GL China
19 Fucozol Red USG China 39 Reactive Black B China
20 Fucozol Red USB China 40 Reactive Orange MCRL China
Note:
Disperse Dyes
Reactive Dyes
4.5. Remark:
As quality is the prime concern of the factory, qualitative raw material are always bought by the
management of factory. Besides there is enough space to keep this raw material in the factory.

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CHAPTER-FIVE
Working Sequence of different
Section

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5.1. Working Sequence of Knitting Section
Order sheet receiving from Merchandiser
Selecting of production parameters
Arranging of yarn
Testing of yarn
Arranging of selected machine
Making a pre-production sample
Starting of bulk production after approval
Checking of grey fabric
Delivery of grey fabric according to batch wise
 Process sequence of batch preparation receive batch card from grey fabric in-charge.
 Make priority as per dyeing plan.
 Take one specific batch card.
 Read the batch card for own understanding.
 Check the availability of fabric.
 The required quantity of body fabric from ware house.
 Take collar & cuff as per size keep the total weight.
 Distribute the collar, cuff or rib in each rope equally ensure equal length.
 Stitch the fabric.
 Write down the weight against roll no. in the back side of the batch card.
 Put signature and date.
Batching
Pretreatment
Dyeing
Fabric sent to finishing section

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5.4. Working Sequence of Finishing Section
Receive fabric from dyeing section
Tube or Open fabric
Squeezer
Slitter (Tube fabric)
Stenter
Compactor
Final inspection
Packing or Rolling
Fabric sent to delivery section
5.5. Working Sequence of Garments Manufacturing Section
Merchandiser receive order from buyer
Order confirmed
Knitting
Dyeing & Finishing
Cutting
Printing and Embroidery (If required)
Sewing
Finishing
Inspection
Packing
Shipment

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5.6. Production Parameter of Knitting
 Machine diameter.
 Machine rpm.
 No. of feeder or feeders in used.
 Machine gauge.
 Count of yarn.
 Required time (m/c running time)
 Machine running efficiency.
5.7. Production Parameter of Dyeing
pH level for different stage of Polyester fabric Dyeing
Name of Stage pH rate
Initial (Bath) 6.5-7.0
Scouring (Bath) 10.0-11.5
After Scouring (Bath) 8.5-9.0
Before addition of leveling chemical 6.0-6.5
After addition of leveling chemical 4.5-4.7
After addition of color (Bath) 4.2-4.5
During reduction cleaning (Bath) 10.5-11.5
Before softener (Bath) 6.3-6.8
After softener (Bath) 5.8-6.2
pH level for different stage of Cotton fabric Dyeing
Name of Stage pH rate
Initial bath 6.5-7.0
Scouring & Bleaching (Bath) 10.0-10.5
After Scouring & Bleaching 8.5-9.0
Before Enzyme (Bath) 4.5-4.7
After Enzyme (Bath) 5.5-6.0
Before addition of leveling chemical 6.5-7.0
After addition of leveling chemical 6.7-7.0
After addition of dyes 6.0-6.5
After addition of Salt 7.5-8.0
After addition of Soda 10.5-11.0
Hot wash (Bath) 8.5-8.7
Before softener (Bath) 7.2-7.8
After softener addition (Bath) 6.5-6.8

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5.8. Remark
This data‟s are varied depending upon the grey GSM and finished GSM and also on the
diameter of the fabric all this parameters are suitable for grey GSM range 140 to 160 to get final
GSM 170 to 185 without lycra fabric. All this data‟s are practiced in mills which may very factory to
factory.

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CHAPTER-6
KNITTING SECTION

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6.1. Layout Plan of Knitting Section
A. Supervisor Desk
B. Inspection Machine
C. Wash Room
Figure: Layout Plan of Knitting Section

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6.2. Fabric
Fabrics are manufactured assembly of fibers or yarn. Which have substantial surface areas in
relation to the thickness and sufficient strength to give the assembly inherent cohesion.
There are three types of fabric. They are-
 Knitted fabric
 Woven fabric
 Non-woven fabric
6.3. Knitting Fabric
Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a
series of interloping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately preceding it.
6.4. Classification of Knitting
6.5. Process Flow Chart of Knitting
Yarn in cone form
↓
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
↓
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement
↓
Tension devise
↓
Knitting
Warp Knitting Weft Knitting
Flat KnittingCircular Knitting
Knitting
Knitting Double JerseySingle Jersey

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Knitting
↓
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
↓
Inspection
↓
Numbering
6.6. Different Fabric Characteristics & End Uses
Characteristics of Single Jersey
 Fairly elastic.
 Face side and back side of fabric are different.
 Front side is smooth and the back side is rough.
 V-Shaped loops in the front, while semi-circular needle loops shown in the back.
 Curl or roll of fabric occurs at the edges.
 Wales are clearly visible on the face side of the fabric.
 Extensibility in widthwise is approximately twice than length.
 Unraveling of fabric occurs from either side is possible.
 Thickness of fabric is approximately twice the diameter of yarn used.
 There is only one series of knitted loop per courses in the fabric
End Use
 T-shirt
 Underwear
 Dresses
 Stocking
Characteristics of Double Jersey
 A broken stitch will cause laddering.
 Consume more quantity of yarn than a plain fabric.
 Does not curl at both ends.
 Good stretch ability in widthwise direction.
End Use
 Cuffs
 Collars
 Sweaters
 Garments

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Characteristics of Plain Interlock
 Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides so the appearance of face and back
are same.
 The Wales of each side re exactly apposite to each other and are locked together.
 Widthwise and length elongations are approximately the same as single jersey .
 The fabric does not curl at the edges .
 The fabric can be unraveled from the knitted last.
 Two yarn must be removed to unravel a complete repeat of knitted courses.
 Fabric thickness is approximately twice than that of single jersey.
End Use
 T-shirt
 Ladies dresses
 Sweaters
 Garments
 Outerwear
6.7. Machine List of Knitting Section in Sadma
Serial
No
Machine Type Brand Origin Quantity
Machine
Diameter
Machine
Gauge
No. of
Feeder
1 Single Jersey Lisky Taiwan 2 18” 24 54
6 Single Jersey Fukahama Taiwan 4 28” 24 108
11 Rib
Young
Cheng
Taiwan 2 20” 18/24 88

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12 Rib/Interlock Lisky Taiwan 2 24” 18/24 64
17 Rib/Interlock Lisky Taiwan 2 40” 24 96
6.8. Different Parts in Knitting Machine
Figure: Circular Knitting machine
1. Creel
Creel is a part of a knitting machine where yarn package are store and ready to feed in the machine.

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Figure: Creel
2. VDQ Pulley
It is a very important part of the machine. It is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch
length.
Figure: VDQ Pulley
3. Belt & Pulley: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
Figure: Pulley Belt
4. Tension Disk: It confronts the tension of the supply yarn.
Figure: Tension Disk

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5. Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion:
It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine instantly when a yarn is break.
Image: Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion
6. Yarn Guide: Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder.
Figure: Yarn Guide
7. MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.
Figure: MPF Wheel
8. Feeder Ring: It is a ring where all feeders are pleased together.
Figure: Feeder Ring

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9. Positive Feeder: Positive Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.
Figure: Positive Feeder
10. Needle
The fundamental element of construction of knitted fabrics is the knitting needle, during yarn
feeding, the hook is opened to release the old loop and to receive the new loop which is then
enclosed in the hook. The new loop is then drawn by the hook through the old loop which slides over
the outside of the closed hook.
There are mainly three types of needle-
1. The bearded needle.
2. The latch needle.
3. The compound needle.
According to the butt position Latch needles are four types-
1. One butt latch needle
2. Two butt latch needle
3. Three butt latch needle
4. Four butt latch needle
Figure: Needle

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11. Needle Track: Where all Needles is placed together in a decent design.
Figure: Needle Track
12. Needle Detector: This part is detected the any type of faults of needles.
Figure: Needle Detector
13. Sinker
The sinker is the second knitting elements. It is a thin metal plate with an individual or a
collective action operation approximately at right from the hook side between adjacent needles.
Figure: Sinker
14. Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring where all sinkers are pleased together.
Figure: Sinker Ring
15. Cam
Cams are the third primary knitting elements which cover the rotary machine drive into a
suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other elements. The cams are carefully profiled to
produce precisely timed movement and dwell periods. The drive transmitted and adapted via cam
followers, leavers, pivots and rocking shafts. One complete 360° revolution of the driver shaft is
equivalent to one knitting cycle. Two types of cam:

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1. Engineering cams
2. Knitting cams
A. Knit cam
B. Tuck cam
C. Miss cam
Figure: Cam
16. Cam Box: Where the cams are set horizontally
.
Figure: Cam box
17. Cylinder: Needle track are situated hear.
Figure: Cylinder

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18. Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.
Figure: Cylinder
19. Lycra Attachment Device: Lycra is placed hear and feeding to the machine.
Figure: Lycra Attachment Device
20. Lycra Stop Motion: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the Lycra is
break.
Figure: Lycra Stop Motion
21. Uniwave Lubrication: The Uniwave lubricator provides uniform lubrication to needles,
cam tracks, lifters and other knitting machine components. The patented nozzle construction
separates the air-oil mixture into air and droplets of oil.
Figure: Uniwave Lubrication
22. Adjustable Fan: This part removes lint, hairy fiber from yarn and others. To clean the dust
by air flow.

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Figure: Adjustable Fan
23. Expander:
To control the width of the knitted fabrics. No distortion of the knitting courses. Even take
down tension in the knitting machine. As a result, an even fabric structure is achieved over the entire
fabric width. The deformation of the knitted fabric goods can be reduced.
Figure: Expander
24. Air Gun Nozzle: To feed the yarn; sometimes it is used for cleaning purpose.
Figure: Air Gun nozzle

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6.9. Types of knitted Fabric Produce in Sadma
6.10. Design Development by Changing Different Cam Setting
Fabric Cam design
Single Jersey K K K
Single pique K T
T K
Double pique K K T T
T T K K
Single Jersey
 Single Jersey
 Single Jersey (Lycra)
 Single Jersey (Auto Stripe)
Pique
 Single Pique
 Double Pique
 Pique (Auto Stripe)
Interlock
 Interlock
 Interlock (Cotton)
 Interlock (PC)
Rib  1×1Rib
 2×2Rib
 2×1Rib
Fleece  Fleece
 Terry Fleece
Lacoste
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Lacoste (Auto Stripe)

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Single lacost K K T K
T K K K
Double lacost K K K T T K
T T K K K K
Terry fleece K T K M
K M K M
K M K T
Fleece K K T K M
K K M K M
K K M K T
Rib Dial: K K
K K
Cylinder: K K
K K
Interlock Dial: K M
M K
Cylinder: K M
M K
Note: K= Knit cam, T= Tuck cam, M= Miss cam
6.11. Considerable Points to Produce Knitted Fabrics
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and
quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as
follows.
 Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
 Finished G.S.M.
 Yarn count
 Types of yarn (combed or carded)

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 Diameter of the fabric.
 Stitch length
 Color depth.
6.12. Production Calculation
Production/Shift in Kg
Machine RPM × Feeders × Stitch length × Efficiency × 60 × 8
Yarncount × 840 × 36 × 2.54 × 2.2048
Length of Fabric Produce per shift (in meter)
𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑒𝑠𝑒 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑖𝑛 × 60 × 8 × 𝐸𝑓𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑐𝑦
𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑒𝑠𝑒 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑐𝑚 × 100
Fabric Width in meter
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑛𝑜. 𝑜𝑓 𝑁𝑒𝑒𝑑𝑙𝑒 𝑢𝑠𝑒𝑑 𝑖𝑛 𝐾𝑛𝑖𝑡𝑡𝑖𝑛𝑔
𝑊𝑎𝑙𝑒𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑐𝑚 × 100
6.13. Production Parameter
 Machine Diameter
 Machine rpm (revolution per minute)
 No. of feeds or feeders in use
 Count of yarn
 Machine Gauge
 Required time (M/C running time)
 Machine running efficiency
6.14. Important Parameter & Their Effect in Fabric Production
1. Stitch length
 Stitch length increase, GSM decrease.
 Stitch length decrease ,GSM increase
2. GSM

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 Grey GSM should be less than finished GSM
 GSM increase with decrease of stitch length and it is adjusted by Variable Dia Quality
(VDQ) pulley.
 Color
 If shrinkage increase then GSM increase.
3. Count
 GSM depends on yarn count
4. Gauge
 If gauge decrease then stitch length increase.
5. Feeder
 Production increase with increase of number of feeder.
6. Design
 Cam setting
 Set of needle
 Size of loop shape.
6.15. Faults with their Causes and Remedies in Knitting
1. Hole Mark.
Causes:
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.
 Knot should be given properly.

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2. Needle Mark:
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Sinker Mark:
Causes:
 When sinker corrodes due to abrasion then sometimes can‟t hold a new loop as a result
sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.
4. Star Mark:
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.
5. Drop Stitches:

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Causes:
 Defective needle.
 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle
hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Yarn tension should be properly.
6. Oil stain:
Causes:
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
7. Rust stain:
Causes:
 If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
 If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
 Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

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8. Pin hole:
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle.
9. Grease stain:
Causes:
 Improper greasing
 Excess greasing
Remedies:
 Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance
10. Cloth fall- out:
Causes:
 Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an
empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the
hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.

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11. Fly:
Causes:
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low
twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly
during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
13. Yarn contamination:
Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
 Fault less spinning.
.
14. Yarn Faults:
 Neps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.
 Hairiness
6.16. Quality Assurance System of Knitting
After collecting fabric rolls from different machine these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by
the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality assurance of knitted grey
fabric in described here.

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Set fabric roll in machine
↓
Run the machine
↓
Check the faults
↓
Record the faults
↓
Accept / Reject
↓
Send for next process
6.18. Fabric Inspection Machine
Figure: Fabric Inspection Machine

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6.19. Faults are detected By Inspection
Hole Drop stitch Oil stain
Needle mark Pin hole Missing yarn
Sinker mark Broken needle Stripe
Slub Thick & Thin place Tight course
Wrong ply Wrong design Lycra out
6.20. Point Distribution for Different kinds of Fault
Calculation of Total point Length:
43055× Fabric Weight (kg)
Finish dia × Finish GSM
Calculation of Class %
3600×Total Points
Total Point Length × Finish dia
Slub 2
Yarn Contra 2
Oil Spot 2
Think/Thin 2
Patta 3
Any Hole 4
Setup 4
Lycra Out 4

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Quality Classification:
Grade Range %
A <20
B 20-30
C Above 30

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CHAPTER-7
Batching Section

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7.1. Batching
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a
Particular lot of a Particular order. Primarily Batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above
criteria under consideration. Batch section‟s in charge receives this primary batch plan from
dyeing Manager. Sometime Planning is adjusted according to m/c condition.
7.2. Batch Process Follow-Up
Grey Fabric Inspection
Batching
Fabric Turning
Stitch the fabric
Storing for dyeing
7.3. General Instructions for the Final Inspection
A. All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards Mapping will be done on
each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.
B. All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points
made to insure proper grading.
C. All fabric must meet specifications.
D. At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether the
piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and
upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality.
E. The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the
lower quality.
F. Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All defects of
one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first 2 inches or the last
2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.
G. Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in
the grading of fabric.
H. Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.
I. All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.
J. Fabric up to 70 inches will be allowed a bow of not more than 1 inch and a Bias of not more
than 2 inches.
K. Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics. All
defects will be counted in tubular goods.

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7.4. Object of Batching
1. To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
2. Turn the grey fabric if require.
3. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-
a) Order sheet (Received from buyer)
b) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
c) M/C capacity
d) M/C available
e) Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
f) Emergency
4. To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
7.5. Types of Batching
1. Assod Method
2. Solid Method
7.6. Proper Batching Criteria
 To use the maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
 To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
 To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
 To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
7.7. Machine in Batch Section
1. Air turning m/c
Origin: Bangladesh
Figure: Air Turning Machine

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2. Best Leader Machine
Model: TI-02
Origin: China
Figure: Fabric Inspection Machine

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CHAPTER-8
Lab Dip Section

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8.1. Lab Dip
Lab dip may be a method by that consumers provided piece of material is matched with the
variable dyes share within the laboratory with or while not facilitate of “DATA COLOR”. Lab dip
plays a vital role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and
chemicals are to be employed in the massive scale of production therefore this can be a vital task
before bulk production.
There are different matching systems followed in Labs .They are-
1. Tube light matching.
2. Sun light matching.
3. Ultra Violet matching.
4. Sodium light matching (show room).
8.2. Objective of Lab Dip
 The main objectives in lab are as follows:
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectrophotometer.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved lab dip (Grade: A,B,C&D)
8.3. Process Sequence of Lab Dip
Lab Dip Requisition from buyer
↓
Entry in the computer
↓
First recipe is given by swatch/pantone number
↓
First correction
↓
Second correction
↓
Grading of sample (A, B, C, D)
↓
Yarn and knit sample send to buyer

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↓
Approved by buyer
↓
Order for bulk production
↓
Production card with approved sample and recipe send to production section.
8.4. Organogram of Lab Section
8.5. .Dyes and Chemicals Measuring Formula for Lab
The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow -
Amount of dye soln
(ml) = Shade % × Sample Weight
Stock Solution%
Manager
Lab In-charge
Supervisor
Senior technician
Technician
Operator
Helper

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Example -
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm
Shade % = 2%
[ If used 0. 5 % stock soln
of dyes ] then ,
Amount of dye soln
(ml) = 2×5 = 20 ml .
0.5
The amount of chemical soln
(ml) is measured as follow -
Amount of chemical soln
(ml) = Recipe Amount (g/l) × Total Liquor
1000 × Stock Solution%
Example -
In recipe, Fabric weight = 5 gm
Salt = 20 g/l
M: L = 1: 10
[ If taken 25 % stock soln
of salt ] then ,
Amount of chemical soln
(ml) = 20 × 50
1000 × 0. 25
= 4 ml
8.6. Stock Solution
Available Stock Solutions:
 Red – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
 Yellow – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
 Blue - 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common).

8.7. Preparation
 To prepare 0.1% Stock solution, it is necessary to mix 0.1 g dye and 100 cc water.
 To prepare 0.5% Stock solution, 0.5 g dye stuff is mixed with 100 cc water.
 To prepare 1.0% & 2.0% Stock solution similar procedure is followed.
 To prepare 10% Stock solution of Soda ash, 10 g Soda is mixed with 100 cc water.

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8.8. Dyeing Procedure in Lab
Sequence of dyeing 100% cotton fabric in lab:
Select bleach fabric (5 gm)
↓
Recipe making
↓
Select dyes
↓
Dyeing
↓
Hot wash
↓
Neutralization
↓
Soaping
↓
Cold wash
↓
Drying
↓
Match with standard sample (Yes)
↓
Bulk production
Sequence of dyeing polyester /cotton fabric in lab:

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Select bleach fabric (5 gm)
↓
Carbonizing of cotton part
↓
Fabric weight measure after carbonized part
↓
Recipe making
↓
Select dyes
↓
Dyeing of polyester part
↓
Matching dyed polyester part with std. (Yes)
↓
Hot wash
↓
Reduction clearing
↓
Soaping
↓
Neutralization
↓
Cold wash
↓
Dyeing of cotton part
↓
Hot wash

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↓
Soaping
↓
Neutralization
↓
Cold wash
↓
Drying
↓
Total sample match with standard sample (Yes)
↓
Bulk production
(Note: Cellulose fiber dissolves in 70% H2SO4 acid solution when treated at 250
c for 10′)
8.9. Instrumental Color matching Process

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Spectrophotometer flow Chart:
8.10. Spectrophotometric measurement
 Color fastness is usually assessed separately with respect to.
 It is another to the visual technique of assessment by gray Scale. the color of the specimen
that has been subjected to the color fastness take a look at and also the color of a creative
specimen area unit measured instrumentally by spectrophotometric measure.
 The CIE LAB coordinates for lightness L*, chroma C* and hue H* for both specimens are
measured.
 The total color difference value AE* which is the function of AL *, AC*, AH * are
calculated and converted to a Grey, Scale by means of a series of equations or by the
following table
 Table for Grey Scale Color Change Step Values according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure
(7)
Triangle shade
Initial recipe
Laboratory
dyeing
Use L*, a*, b* to
match
OK
Production
dyeing
Use L*, a*, b* to
match
Recipe correction
Not matched
Production
correction
Not matched
Input database
History of the lab
Recipe Prediction calculated by CCM
Finish
Finished
OK

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8.11. Functions of spectrophotometer
 Color difference.
 Reflectance curve.
 Mesmerism.
 Shade library.
 Pass/fail operation.
 Fastness rating.
 Cost comparison.
8.12. Color Measurement of Standard Sample
Color menstruation is principally in dire straits the aim of shade matching as attainable.
Shade matching of the created sample with the quality sample with the quality one is obligatory.
Color menstruation may be done by two methods
Color Measurement
Manual Method Instrumental Method

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Figure: Color Measurement of Standard Sample
In manual technique, the std. sample‟s color is measured by scrutiny it with antecedently made
samples of various tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with that the color of the std.
matched, that sample‟ color instruction is being taken for shade matching. This method‟s accuracy
utterly depends on the vision of the person associated with it however person should be required
gather expertise regarding color matching. The instrumental technique is additional reliable if it's
operated accurately to try to the work of color mensuration. “Spectrophotometer” interfaced with a
laptop is employed for shade matching. This instrument works with the principle of coefficient
menstruation of sunshine at completely different wave length. once the quality sample is being
subjected beneath photometer, then the instrument recommend a instruction with needed tri-
chromatic colors inside the tolerance limit of color distinction. during this method, color mensuration
of the quality sample is applied for the aim of shade matching.
8.12. Machine Specification in Section
Machine name : Sample Dyeing m/c
Machine quantity: 02
Brand : Son-tech
Origin : China
Machine name : Spectrophotometer
Brand : Datacolor
Model : 650
Origin : China
Machine name : Color assessment cabinet
Brand : TILO

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Model : T60-(5)
Origin : China
Machine name : Rubbing Fastness Tester
Brand : Paramount
Origin : India
Machine name : Wash Fastness Tester
Machine quantit : 01
Brand : F & P
Origin : China

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CHAPTER-9
DYEING SECTION

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9.1. Layout of Dyeing Floor
2361475
9
8
10
111213
14
Batchsection
15 16 17 18 19
Road
Road
Office
ENTRY
EXIT

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9.2. Dyeing Machine Specification
M/C No. Brand Origin Capacity
Temperature
rang
1 Fong‟s China 700Kg Up to 100O
C
C
C
C
5 Texlink China 600Kg Up to 140O
C
C
C
8 Dilmenler Turkey 1050Kg Up to 140O
C
C
C
C
C
C
C
15 Color Self China 200Kg Up to 140O
C
16 Son-tech China 100Kg Up to 140O
C
C
C
C

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9.3. Specification and Images of Dyeing & Finishing Machine
Technical data of Texlink Sample Dyeing Machine
Brand Name Texlink
Origin China
No. of Nozzle 01
Capacity 30 kg
M/C Type High Temperature
& Pressure
Temperature Up to 130°C
Utility Electricity, Steam
and Water.
Figure: Texlink Sample Dyeing m/c Figure: Color Seft Sample Dyeing m/c
Brand Name Color Seft
Origin China
No. of Nozzle 01
Capacity 80 kg
M/C Type High Temperature
& Pressure
and Water.

BUBT 77
Technical Data of Texlink Dyeing Machine
Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c
Brand Name Texlink
Origin China
No. of Nozzle 06
Capacity 1200 kg
M/C Type Normal
and Water.
Brand Name Texlink
Origin China
No. of Nozzle 06
Capacity 1600 kg
M/C Type Normal
and Water.

BUBT 78
Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c
Brand Name Texlink
Origin China
No. of
Nozzle
06
Capacity 1200 kg
M/C Type High
temperature &
pressure
Utility Electricity,
Steam and
Water.
Brand Name Texlink
Origin China
No. of Nozzle 01
Capacity 100 kg
M/C Type High temperature &
pressure
and Water.

BUBT 79
Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c Figure: Fongs Dyeing m/c
Brand Name Texlink
Origin China
No. of
Nozzle
02
Capacity 500 kg
M/C Type
Normal
Steam and
Water.
Brand Name FONGS
Origin China
No. of Nozzle 03
Capacity 600 kg
M/C Type Normal
and Water.

BUBT 80
Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c Figure: Fongs Dyeing m/c
Brand Name WOOYANG
Origin China
No. of Nozzle 03
Capacity 600 kg
pressure
and Water.
Brand Name FONGS
Origin China
No. of Nozzle 02
Capacity 400 kg
M/C Type Normal
Steam and
Water.

BUBT 81
Brand Name MAN MOOL
Origin China
No. of Nozzle 02
Capacity 400 kg
M/C Type High
temperature &
pressure
Steam and
Water.
Figure: Man mool Dyeing m/c Figure: Dilmenlar Dyeing m/c
Brand Name DILENLAR
Origin Turkey
No. of Nozzle 03
Capacity 1050 kg
pressure
and Water.

BUBT 82
9.4. Operation Procedure
Check list before operation
 Check order no and customers name on the batch/job card.
 Check types, quality, quantity, and other specification on the batch /job card.
 Check fabric and yarn quality and quantity while receiving goods from inspection.
 Availability of manpower
 Availability of key accessories and other required materials.
 Availability of power.
 Check machine wise production plan to set priority.
Check list after operation
 Check production plan to set the priority
 Select 7-8 batches or shaft to prepare
 Consult with previous shift to get the required information about the bathes
 Check batch card and job card specification (e.g. yarn type ,quality weight etc)for fabric and
collar cuff respectively
 Calculate number of bathes, nozzle and rolls to be prepared for each order and specify on the
batch card and the job card. One should be very careful while calculating and entering such
data on this card.
 Feed the fabric into the turning machine
 Start batching operation and check the following information
 Machine no
 Number of nozzle to be prepared
 Order no
 Customer name
 GSM
 Width
 Lot no
 Prepare the body fabric of specified weight. this weight must be accurate and each nozzle of
same batch must weight equal to endure even dyeing
 Calculate the number of collars/cuffs and attach the collars and cuffs with the body fabric
 Write down the weight of each roll on the back of batch card
 Check hole mark in each roll for identification
 Turn the roll if required
 Calculate the total weight very carefully and write it down in the specific area of the batch card
 After completion of one batch write „ok‟ as comment at the note section of batch card and send
the batch along with the card to dyeing section.

BUBT 83
9.5. Dyeing Process Definition
Pretreatment
Pretreatment is carried out before dyeing to remove oil, waxes, and fats, natural Coloring matters and
all other impurities and to ensure proper dyeing.
Scouring
Gray fabrics contain fats, waxes, and other impurities. The absorbency of the fabric is adversely
affected due the presence of these impurities .this leads to improper dyeing, printing and finishing in
the subsequent process. These impurities are removed from the fabric by a chemical treatment. This
chemical treatment is called scouring process.
Bio Scouring:
With the increasingly important requirement for textile industries to reduce pollution in textile
production, the use of enzymes in the chemical processing of fibres and textiles is rapidly gaining
wider recognition because of their non-toxic and eco-friendly characteristics. Enzymes were
discovered in the second half of the nineteenth century, and since are routinely used in many
environmentally friendly and economic industrial sectors. There is increasing demand to replace
some traditional chemical processes with
biotechnological processes involving microorganisms and enzymes such as pectinases, xylanases,
cellulases, laccases and ligninases.
Recipe Formulation
Enzymatic scouring was carried out by the following recipe-
Enzyme ...........................................3 g/L or 0.5%
Sequestering agent ...........................1 g/L
Wetting agent ...................................2 g/L
Temperature ....................................60o
C
Time ................................................30 min
M: L ................................................1:10
pH ...................................................8 -9

BUBT 84
Bio-scouring Curve
Figure: Process curve of Bio- Scouring
Bio-scouring Procedure:
The required amount of water, chemicals & enzyme were taken for each sample in the individual pot
of Washing and dry cleaning color fastness (Gyro wash).Then the samples were immersed & stirred
properly in the solution of the pots. Then the samples were treated in the Gyro wash according to the
curve.
Bleaching
Bleaching is the process for removing natural nitrogenous coloring matter, i.e. dust, husk, broken
seeds, protein, leaf , etc from the fabric and make it white by oxidizing or chemical treatment .
Scouring & bleaching Objects
 To remove fats, wax, impurities from the fabrics.
 To increase absorbency of fabric
 To obtain pure & permanent color.
 To remove natural coloring materials, dirt, dust, broken seed by oxidizing of chemical
treatment
 To whiten the fabric.
 It helps to produce even shade during dyeing operation.
 To impart wet ability of the fabric which is necessary for further treatment and in domestic
uses.

BUBT 85
Washing
Washing is a process to remove waxes, fats, or to increase absorbency of the fabric by chemical
treatment. Washing process specially used only for TC and TTC dark color shade.
9.6. Dyeing process of Cotton
Fabric loaded
↓
Treating with anti-creasing agent (Room temperature)
↓
Adding detergent
↓
Adding Antifoaming agent
↓
Caustic dosing (dosing 6min)
↓
Peroxide dosing (60˚c; 5min)
↓
Run time 1 hour 90˚c
↓
Sample check
↓
If ok
↓
Drain out
↓
Normal hot (70˚c,10min)
↓
Drain

BUBT 86
Continue
↓
Adding Peroxide Killer
↓
Run time 55˚c, 10min
↓
Adding Acetic Acid
↓
Run time 10min 55˚c (ph-4.5)
↓
Adding enzyme
↓
Run time 45-60min, 55˚c
↓
Enzyme hot 80˚c, 10min
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank (run time 5min)
↓
Rinsing -4min
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Adding Leveling, Antifoaming & Anti-creasing agent (R.T.)

BUBT 87
Continue
↓
↓
Salt dosing 20min, 40˚c
↓
Runtime -25min (60˚c)
↓
Sample check
↓
Color dosing 10min, 40˚c
↓
Run time 10-15min
↓
Soda dosing (2 g/l; 20min)
↓
Remaining Soda dosing (30min,pH 10-10.5)
↓
20 min run
↓
Temp rise 80˚c
↓
Run time-1 hour
↓
Sample check
↓
Rinsing-5-10min

BUBT 88
Continue
↓
Drain
↓
Filling the tank
↓
↓
Sample check
↓
Drain
↓
Adding Acetic Acid (Room Temp)
↓
Run time-30min
↓
Sample check
↓
Drain
↓
Filling the tank
↓
Adding soaping agent (90˚c, run-10 min)
↓
Drain
↓
Sample check

BUBT 89
Continue
↓
Filling the tank
↓
Rinsing (5min room tem)
↓
Drain
↓
Filling the tank
↓
Run time (5min, room tem)
↓
Drain
↓
Sample check
↓
Filling the tank
↓
Dosing-fixing agent (15min)
↓
↓
Sample check
↓
↓
Filling the tank

BUBT 90
Continue
↓
Add Softener
↓
Run time (20min,room tem)
↓
Sample check (If ok)
↓
Unload
9.7. Dyeing Process of CVC of PC
Scouring & Bleaching: Fabric loaded
↓
Chemical: (Detergent, Sequestering agent, Anti creasing agent , Antifoaming agent, Caustic
dosing, Stabilizer) 40˚c; 5min
↓
Add Hydrogen peroxide at 70˚c
↓
Temp. rise at 100˚c.Run time 50min
↓
Temp. down at 80˚c
↓
Hot wash (70˚c,10min)
↓
Cold wash (10min)
↓

BUBT 91
Neutralization by Acetic acid(80˚c,10min pH4.5-5)
↓
↓
↓
Adding enzyme(if required) at 60˚c
↓
↓
Enzyme hot 80˚c, 10min
↓
Drain
↓
Filling the tank
↓
Dyeing of Polyester Part:
Leveling agent + Acetic acid(40˚c,10min pH4.5-5)
↓
Color dosing at 40˚c, 20min (Run time10min)
↓
Temp. raise at 130˚c(Run time 60min)
↓
Cooling at 80˚c
↓
Sample check(if ok)

BUBT 92
↓
Hot wash with reduction cleaning agent (Hydrose+Caustic soda) at 90˚c,10min
↓
Neutralization by Acetic acid
↓
Cold wash 10min
↓
Dyeing of Cotton Part:
Adding Leveling agent (40˚c,10min)
↓
Salt inject at 400
c, Run time 20min pH 6-6.5
↓
Color dosing at 40˚c, D.t 30min (Run time20min)
↓
Soda dosing at 40˚c, D.t 30min (Run time20min)
↓
Temp. raise at 60˚c(Run time 60min)
↓
Sample check(if ok)
↓
Cold wash
↓
Normal hot wash at 40˚c,Run time 10min
↓
Neutralization by Acetic acid at 50˚c,10min
↓

BUBT 93
Hot wash with washing agent(70˚-90˚)c,10min
↓
Cold wash
↓
Add Fixing agent at 40˚c, Run time 10-15min
↓
Add Softener 90˚c, Run time 10-15min
↓
Sample check(Final)
↓
Unload
9.8. Process Sequence of Critical Shade (Turquoise Color)
Fabric loaded
↓
Treating with anti-creasing agent (Room temperature)
↓
Adding detergent
↓
Adding Antifoaming agent
↓
Caustic dosing (dosing 6min)
↓
Peroxide dosing (60˚c; 5min)
↓
Run time 1 hour 95˚c
↓

BUBT 94
Sample check
↓
If ok
↓
Drain out
↓
↓
Drain
↓
↓
↓
Adding Acetic Acid
↓
Run time 10min 55˚c (ph-4.5)
↓
Adding enzyme
↓
Run time 1hour, 55˚c
↓
Enzyme hot- 70˚c, 10min
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank (run time 5min)

BUBT 95
↓
Rinsing -4min
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Adding Leveling, Antifoaming & Anti-creasing agent (R.T.)
↓
10min run time (R.T.)
↓
10min run time (60˚c)
↓
Color dosing-30min
↓
10min run
↓
½ Salt dosing-5min
↓
½ Salt dosing -5min
↓
Runtime -25min (60˚c)
↓
Sample check
↓
Soda dosing (2 g/l; 20min)
↓

BUBT 96
Remaining Soda dosing (30min)
↓
20 min run
↓
Temp rise 80˚c
↓
Run time-1 hour
↓
Rinsing-5min
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Run time (RT)
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Normal hot (60k˚c,10min)
↓
Sample check
↓
Drain
↓
Adding Acetic Acid (room temp ,run time-30min)

BUBT 97
↓
Sample check
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Adding soaping agent (90˚c, run-10 min)
↓
Drain
↓
Sample check
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓

BUBT 98
Dosing-fixing agent (15min)
↓
↓
Sample check
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Dosing softener (5min)
↓
Run time (20min,room tem)
↓
Sample check(Final)
↓
Unload
9.9. Some Important Parameter for Dyeing
Stripping:
When it is impossible to control the levelness need to remove all colors from the fabric is
called stripping.
Stripping Chemical:
 Invatex CRA(Detergent agent)
 Soda (Scouring agent)
 ATS (Antifoaming)
 Optavan ( Sequestering agent)
 Invalom Dam(Anti creasing agent)
 Hydrose (Reduction agen

BUBT 99
Topping: Hot wash, neutralization, then again dyeing process is performed.
Addition: Without dropping Bath color is added to bath.
Re-dyeing : After stripping Process fabric is dyed again. Stripping is the part of re dyeing process.
9.10. Common Dyeing Fault with their Remedies
1. Crease mark
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
 Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Reducing the m/c load
 Higher liquor ratio
2. Uneven dyeing
Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
 Improper color dosing.
 Using dyes of high fixation property.
 Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment.
 By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

BUBT 100
3. Batch to Batch Shade variation
Causes:
 Fluctuation of Temperature.
 Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
 Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
 Dyes lot variation.
 Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
 Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 Maintain the same liquor ratio.
 Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
 Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
 Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the
Shade.
 Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time
and temperature in the process.
 The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should
check daily.
4. Patchy dyeing effect
Causes:
 Entanglement of fabric.
 Faulty injection of alkali.
 Improper addition of color.
 Due to hardness of water.
 Due to improper salt addition.
 Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
 Uneven heat in the machine, etc.
Remedies:
 By ensuring proper pretreatment.
 Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
 Proper salt addition.
5. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:
Causes:
 Poor migration property of dyes.
 Improper dyes solubility.
 Hardness of water.
 Faulty m/c speed, etc

BUBT 101
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 Proper m/c speed.
 Use of soft water
6. Dye spot
Causes:
 Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
 Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
 By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
 By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh
strainer, so that the
 large un-dissolved particles are removed
7. Wrinkle mark
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Higher liquor ratio
8. Softener Mark
Causes:
 Improper mixing of the Softener.
 Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
 Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
 Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
 Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

BUBT 102
9. Pilling
Cause:
 Too high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric.
 Excess speed during processing.
 Excess foam formation in the dye bath.
Remedies:
 By using of a suitable chemical lubricant.
 By using antifoaming agent.
10. Fabric distortion and increase in width
Cause:
 Too high material speed.
 Low liquor ratio.

Remedies:
 By decreasing both nozzle pressure and winch speed.

BUBT 103
CHAPTER-10
FINISHING SECTION

BUBT 104
10.1. Introduction of Finishing
Textile finishing involves treating a textile material in such the simplest way that the
merchandise has needed} properties required for its meant use and thus has nice market price. the
required properties could embody the material dimensions and their stability, its weight, drape,
appearance, softness and handle, additionally as any needed purposeful properties like resistance to
creasing, flame, water, oil, dirt or bacterium. Textile finishing is so a very various field involving an
intensive vary of chemicals. The degree of permanence of a selected end for a cloth depends on its
meant use. The chemicals used could weigh the material to form it straightforward to slip and handle,
or permit sleek penetration of a stitching needle to attenuate needle breakage. Anyone concerned in
textile coloration should bear in mind of the influence of preparation method on the coloring
behavior of the materials additionally because the finishing chemicals on the ultimate color of the
products and on their color fastness properties. while not this information, no one will make sure the
final color and its fastness properties.
10.2. Objective of Finishing
 Improving the appearance. Luster, whiteness, etc.
 Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its softness,
suppleness, fullness, etc.
 Wearing qualities, none soiling, anti crease, anti shrink, comfort, etc.
 Special properties required for particular uses. Water proofing, flame proofing, etc.
 Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
 Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Types of Finishing
1. Chemical finishing.
2. Mechanical finishing.
10.3. Different Finishing Machine in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.
Machine description of Finishing Section
Serial
No Name of machine Brand name Origin
1 Squeezer machine Bianco Italy
2 Squeezer machine Dong Nam Korea
3 Hydro extractor F & P China
4 Slitting machine Bianco Italy
5 Dryer Tung Yang Taiwan

BUBT 105
6 Dryer Alkan Turkey
7 Compactor(Tubular) Navis USA
8 Compactor(Open) Bianco Italy
9 Stenter machine Bianco Italy
10 Stenter machine HASGROUR Turkey
11 Tumble Dryer F & P China
12 Washing machine F & P China
13
Fabric Inspection
machine
Best Leader Chin
10.4. Observation of Different Finishing Machine
Function, important parts and controlling points are described here.
10.5. Squeezer of De-Watering Machine
After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics arc ready for de-watering. This
is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing. This is the main function of
the squeezing machine. But here also control the some important factor of the fabric quality.
The basic function of the squeezing machine
 To remove the water from the fabric.
 To control the width of the fabric.
 To control the length of the fabric.
 To increase the softness of the fabric.
 To remove the crease mark of the fabric.
 To control the spairelity of the fabric.
 To control the over feeding system.
Figure: Squeezer Machine
Important parts
 Twist detector
 Expander
 Padder

BUBT 106
Controlling Points
A. Excess padder pressure may cause fabric damage. Padder pressure depends on
fabric construction.
B. Diameter setting must be accurate.
C. Higher the fabric speed leads less removal of water.
D. Overfeed
E. Speed must be optimum.
10.6. Dryer
Drying is a process where the liquid portion is evaporated from the fabric.
The basic function of the dryer
 To dry the fabric.
 To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control)
 To control the GSM of the fabric.
Important Parts
 Chamber
 Burner
 Conveyor net
 Filter net
 Fan
 Nozzle
 Exhaust air fan
 Over feed roller
Figure: Dryer Machine
Controlling Points
 Temperature: dependable on color.
 Overfeed (%): dependable on fabric structure
 Speed: It depends on fabric construction and color. For higher GSM lower the speed.

BUBT 107
10.7. Tube Compactor
The basic functions of the Tube compactor machine
 To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).
 To control the dia.
 To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).
Important parts
 Overfeed roller
 Expander
 Blanket
 Steam sprayers
 Cylinder
 Teflon covers
Figure: Tube Compactor
Controlling Points
 Temperature: It depends on construction and composition &color of the fabric.
 Speed: It depends on temperature and fabric construction.
 Blanket Pressure : Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.
 Over feed : Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but higher over feed
leads to the formation of crease mark.
Observation of tube compacter setting for different fabric
Fabric
parameter
Single jersey 1 x 1 Rib Collar, Cuff
Compector 30 30 N/A
Overfeed 5 12 N/A
Padder pressure 30 bar 30 bar 18 bar
Speed 18 m/min 18 m/ min 15 m/min
Temperature 100o
C 100o
C 100o
C

BUBT 108
10.8. Slitting Machine
Main Function of slitting machine
 To open the tube forms of fabric
 To squeeze the fabric and remove the extra water in the fabric.
Important parts
 Twist detector
 Cutting knife/device
 Padder
Figure: Slitting Machine
Controlling Points
 Pressure: The padder pressure should be according to requirement.
 Speed-The speed should be optimum (30-80 m/min)
10.9. Stenter Machine
Stenters are widely used for stretching, drying, heat-setting and finishing of Fabrics. The
stenter frame is usually 80-100 feet long and 70-100 inches wide. The speed ranges from 10-45
m/min with a maximum setting time in the setting zone 30 sec at temperature ranging from 175
to 250~ depending upon the thickness and type of the material.
The basic functions of the Stenter machine
 To control width.
 To control GSM.
 To control spirality.
 Drying of fabric.
 To remove edge curl of the fabric
 To remove the crease mark of the fabric
 To remove the hardness of the fabric
 To increase the better shade properties. Figure: Stenter Machine

BUBT 109
Controlling Points
 Temperature: It depends on color construction and composition of the fabric. For S/J
the temp is 150°C and 170°C for stripe fabrics.
 Over feed: Over feed increases the GSM of the fabric.
 Width setting: Higher width setting reduces the GSM.
 Speed: It depends on construction and amount of moisture on the fabric
Observation of stenter setting for different fabric
Fabric
Parameter
Single jersey L – Rib P.K. F/T
Required Dia 88‟‟ 80” 54” 80”
Actual Dia 90.5” 88” 67” 84”
Required GSM 160 240 210 240
Actual GSM 148 218 185 232
Temperature 180o
C 200o
C 180o
C 190o
C
Overfeed 60% 45% 60% 40%
Machine speed 20 18 18 16
Dia setting 2310 mm 2400 mm 1720 mm 2150 mm
10.10. Open Compactor
The basic functions of the Open compactor machine
 To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).
 To control the dia.
 To control the shrinkage.
Important parts
 Over-feed roller
 Blanket
 Steam sprayers
 Cylinder
 Tell on covers Figure: Open Compactor

BUBT 110
Controlling Points
 Temperature: It depends on construction and composition & color of the
fabric.
 Speed: It depends on temperature and fabric construction.
 Blanket Pressure: Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.
 Over feed: Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but high over feed leads
to the formation of crease mark.

Observation of open compactor setting for different fabric
Fabric
parameter
Single jersey CVC S/J L – Rib P.K. F/T
Required Dia 88‟‟ 92” 80” 104” 80”
Actual Dia 90” 94” 84” 108” 84”
Finished Dia 89” 93” 82” 106” 82”
Required GSM 160 180 240 200 240
Actual GSM 150 170 210 190 230
Finished GSM 155 175 220 200 240
Overfeed 12 12 10 12 10
Temperature 80o
C 80o
C 80o
C 80o
C 80o
C
The finished material could have totally different forms of faults. This could occur throughout
Knitting, coloring or finishing. If the material delivered then the standard of the material might not
be smart and therefore the emptor can reject the finished clothes. For this reason careful scrutiny of
this finished material is therefore vital. In finished material the subsequent faults square measure
typically found.

BUBT 111
Fabric inspection report
Here, 4- purpose system is employed for inspecting merchandise. Spinning knitting and
process faults square measure inspected and noncommissioned here, commons faults that square
measure found here square measure yarn, containing slub, neps hole, needle mark, niuker mark
lyera miss/out, oil stain , crease mark, chemical mark, color spot mark, Bowing mark etc.
10.12. Fault Point System
Fault size Points
3 inches or less 1 Points
Over 3 inches to 6 inches 2 Points
Over 6 inches to 9 inches 3 Points
Over 9 inches 4 Points
Acceptance
Up to 40 Points =A
41-60Points =B
61-80Points =C
80 above = Rejected
Calculation
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑃𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡 𝑝𝑒𝑟 100 𝑠𝑞𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑒 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑑 =
𝐴𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑃𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑑
𝐴𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑅𝑜𝑙𝑙 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡𝑕
×
36
𝐴𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡𝑕
100
= Total fault (%).

BUBT 112
CHAPTER-11
Garments Section

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11.1. Garments
The garments production processing steps and techniques involved in the manufacturing for
the large scale of production in industrial basis for business purposes is called garments
manufacturing technology.
11.2. Garment Machinery & Equipment

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11.3. Garments Manufacturing Process
This is the Basic Production Flow chart of a garment. In advance some of the process can be added
or removed.

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11.4. Sewing Sequence of T- Shirt
Number matching front to back part
↓
Solder stitching (By Over lock m/c)
↓
Neck rib truck (By Plain m/c)
↓
Neck rib sewing (By Plain m/c)
↓
Neck rib join with body part
↓
Neck top sin
↓
Solder to solder back tip
↓
Size label sewing
↓
Solder to solder back sin
↓
Sleeve marking and number matching with body part
↓
Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)
↓
Sleeve joint with the body part
↓
Side sewing and care label joint
↓

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Bottom hem tuck (At the end side)
↓
Bottom hem sewing
↓
Arm bottom hem joint
↓
Inspection
11.5. Sewing Sequence of a Polo Shirt
Lining joint with collar part by heat pressing
↓
Collar marking for open stitch
↓
Collar inside open stitch
↓
Collar marking
↓
Collar 1
/4 top sin
↓
Collar cutting
↓
Band rolling
↓
Band joint with Collar
↓
Band top sin 1
/6
↓

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Placket lining
↓
Placket marking
↓
Placket rolling
↓
Placket joint
↓
Placket top sin 1
/6
↓
Placket pattern top sin
↓
Placket pattern top sin 1
/6
↓
Box sewing
↓
Pocket rolling
↓
Pocket iron
↓
Pocket marking
↓
Pocket joint with body
↓
Yoke joint with back part
↓
Yoke ¼ top sin

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↓
Back & front part matching number
↓
Solder joint
↓
Solder top sin
↓
Collar and body number matching
↓
Collar joint with body part
↓
Collar top sin in joining point
↓
Sleeve marking
↓
Sleeve over lock
↓
Sleeve rolling
↓
Sleeve pair matching
↓
Sleeve and body matching
↓
Sleeve body tuck
↓
Sleeve joint with body part
↓

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Sleeve marking for batch
↓
Sleeve batch joint (Left & Right side)
↓
Body marking for batch
↓
Batch joint with body part
↓
Label marking
↓
Label ironing
↓
Main label joint with back side
↓
Sleeve opening tuck
↓
Body hem sewing
↓
Care label sewing
↓
Side joint
↓
Band tuck
↓
Band tape joint
↓
Band top sin

BUBT 120
↓
Sleeve chap tuck
↓
Inspection
11.6. Garments Accessories
Fabric is the basic material in garment manufacturing. Except fabric the other materials are
known as accessories. For garments making there are some accessories are commonly used.
Garments Accessories:
 Thread
 Interlining
 Lining
 Button (Snap button, Plastic button, Metal button etc.)
 Label (Main Label, Size Label, Care Label)
 Motif (Leather, Plastic, Metal)
 Pocketing fabric
 Velcro
 Elastic
 Cord
 Ribbon
 Toggles
 Zipper
 Rivet
 Collar bone
Finishing Accessories
 Hang tag
 Price tag
 Plastic / Poly bag
 Tissue paper
 Carton
 Scotch tape
 PP belt
 Tag pin
 Plastic clip
 Sticker
 Butterfly
 Collar insert
 Back board
 Neck insert

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11.7. Description of Process Sequences
1. Garments design, Sketch and Measurement sheet Garments design, sketch and measurement
sheet is given by the buyer to the sellers. Buyers make a design of required garments with
sketch having all the required accessories and trimmings. They also provide a measurement sheet
of different sizes. All these including name as merchandising details sheet. After getting these
requirements pattern master makes a pattern for sample making of different sizes. In these there are
also manufacturing details with the help of all required accessories and trimmings.
2. Pattern: The individual part of a garment which is shaped by a hard paper like drawing sheet is
called pattern. It is classified into 2 types as follows-
 Working pattern: The pattern which is used to make sample garment is called working or
master pattern.
 Production pattern: The pattern which is used for bulk production is called production pattern.
 Pattern grading: After developing pattern, pattern master decreases or increases master pattern
stepwise, it is called pattern grading. Like this-
S ↔M↔L↔XL
Before making a sample pattern making according to sketch and measurement or directly from
sample is very important. The construction of pattern is done by two methods like-
a. Manual construction of pattern
b. Computer aided construction of pattern
In Sadma Fashion Wear, they use manual methods of construction of pattern. During manual or
computer aided construction of pattern the pattern draft is developed by calculation based on the
following instructions-
a. Actual body size
b. Size charts or sample
c. Grading increment
d. Easy allowances
On pattern the following instructions must be marked-
 Name of the pattern
 Style
 Size
 Grain direction
 CFL & CBL
 Seam allowances
 Balance mark

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The following tools and equipment are used for pattern construction-
 Working surface
 Paper
 Pencils
 Eraser
 Marker pen
 French curves
 Compass
 Set square
 Scissors
 Measuring tape
 Rubber, scale, scotch tape etc.
3. Sample Garment
The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are
used to sew the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by very efficient and
technically sound person.
 To make sample garment for buyer approval.
 To make pattern sets for bulk production when needed.
4. Production pattern
The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern.
During production pattern making, sometimes patterns design may be modified if buyer or
authority suggests any minor modification.
5. Grading
Normally for large scale of production of any style needs different sizes to produce from
asset of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade
rule which is called grading.
6. Marker Making
Marker is defined as a large thin paper which contents all required patterns pieces of
different sizes for a particular style of apparels.
Marker is made by following steps-
 Pattern are placed onto a large thin sheet
 Then marked by pen around the pattern
 First place big part & small part are placed at the end position
 Finally found a marker

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Marker is made of fulfill the following objects-
 To get similarities among the apparel
 To save times
 To minimized fabric wastage
 To reduce cost
Marker is made by two methods as follows-
1. Manual method
2. Computerized method
Depending on making of marker it has the following types as follows-
 One way marker
 Two way marker
 Interactivemarker
 Auto marker
 Paper marker
 Fabric marker
 Whole garment marker
 Single size marker
 Multi size marker
During marker making the following points should be checked-
a. Pattern direction
b. Pattern alignment
c. Parts missing
d. Mismatched checks or stripes
e. Overlapping
f. Marker too width than fabric.
g. Poor line marking.
h. Double line marking.
i. Pattern to pattern distance.
j. Notches and drills marks are omitted
7. Fabric spreading
Fabric spreading means the smooth laying out of fabric with respect to marker length
and width which is specified. When spreading is done the following basic requirements
maintained-
- Alignment of plies
- Correct or uniform ply tension
- Smooth surface of fabric
- Static electricity is not formed during spreading
- Fusion free for synthetic fabric

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- Matching of stripe or check
- Distortion free of plies
There are two methods used for spreading-
1. Manual method
2. Mechanical method
In Sadma they use manual method of spreading. Problems may occur during spreading-
- Misalignment of plies
- Mismatching checks or stripes
- Wrong direction of plies
- Incorrect tension of plies
- Fabric relaxation
- Narrow width fabric
- Shaded fabrics
8. Fabric Cutting
On the spread fabric the marker is placed carefully and accurately and pined with the
fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight
knife cutting machine is used to cut the garment component as per exact dimension of
each patterns, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects.
During cutting of fabric the following flow chart is followed-

BUBT 125
9. Sewing /Assembling
Sewing is defined as an operation by an operator through a m/c named sewing m/c which
used sewing thread to sew the fabric by forming stitch in the way of interloping, interlacing of sewing
thread. To sew a fabric by sewing m/c needle along with sewing thread is used. So to sew a
fabric needle, sewing thread are important elements.
12.5. Sewing Problems
There are various types of sewing problems found in sewing floor. Among these problems
the following are the main -
1. Problem of formation: It has four types as follows -
1. Supplied stitch
Causes:
 Loop size of needle is small
 Bent needle
 Tension variation of looper and needle thread.
2. Staggered stitch (Stitch line is not parallel with seam line)
Causes:
 Bent needle
 Wrong needle point
 Improper needle adjust
3. Unbalanced stitch (If bobbin thread does not work, it produces hole & forms this stitch)
Causes:
 Incorrect tension of sewing thread
 Incorrect passage of thread through guide
 Insufficient lubrication
4. Frequent thread breakage
Causes:
 Improper unwinding
 Higher thread tension
 Excess heating
 Lower qualitythread

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2. Seam pucker: It is caused for five purposes as follows-
a. Unequal stitch on fabric due to limitation of feed m/c
b. Fabric dimensional stability due to unequal shrinkage of one ply then other for washing
c. Extension of sewing thread due to tension
d. Sewing thread shrinkage after washing or ironing
e. Compact fabric with high EPI, PPI is caused seam puckering during sewing.
3. Fabric damage at the seam line: It is visible after washing and wear which is mainly caused for
needle bending or improper selection of needle size. This is two types of fabric damage with
needle as follows-
 Mechanical damage (m/c speed high)
 Needle heating damage (300-350°C)
11.8. Finishing
Finishing Flow-chart-

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11.9. Final Inspection
For complete garment that is not in bundle form, it is recommended that statistical inspection done
based on AQL .The defects may be identified in finished garments:
1. Broken ends
2. Broken picks
3. Reed marks
4. Broken pattern
5. Thick and thin place
6. Rough surface cloth
7. Iron stain
8. Holes in the cloth
9. Shading
10 Shuttle marks
11.10. Garments Merchandising
“Merchandising” is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term
merchandising has been derived from merchandise. Merchandise means goods that are bought and
sold. The term “Merchandising” may be defined as: Person who merchandises the goods,
specifically for export purpose. Garments merchandising means buying raw materials and accessories,
producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within schedule
time. From the above definitions, we can say that a person involved in garments merchandising needs
a wide range of knowledge and skill to perform his job successfully. The job itself is Technical and
general as well.
1. Quality of a merchandiser
The qualities must be needed of a merchandiser are as following:
 Good English speaking & writing skill.
 Must have computer knowledge like- MS Word, MS Excel, Internet & E-
mail etc.
 Proper knowledge on mathematics.
 Sound working capacity always be prepared for any kind of working pressure.
 Training is needed for knowing primary knowledge about
merchandising.
 Proper knowledge about garments production

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 Proper knowledge about Commerce & Banking. Proper knowledge about Shipping line &
Airline.
2. Duties & Responsibilities of a Merchandiser
Dealing with the buyer & convincing the buyer is the main duty of a marketing officer or
merchandiser. A merchandiser also has some other duties. The main duties & responsibilities of a
merchandiser are given bellow-
 To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer.
 To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers.
 To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officers &
merchandisers.
 To maintain communication with the buyers and buying houses.
 Communicate with better knowledge of the products.
3. Scope of a Merchandiser
 Merchandisers are the key player for generating business for any manufacturing
plants/company.
 Merchandisers are responsible for making good profit for the company. Whatever the
nature of business, they are always keen to increase the profit margin for the company.
To maintain a good relationship between all the departments and to get the best output rom
each department is also important and merchandisers play a vital role in getting good
output from each department.
 Communication skill is important to maintain an effective communication between all
concerned parties. Corresponding with buyer/agent for all related work i.e. sample
approval, testing, packaging, shipping.
 To act as a link between different departments of company for order processing, upplying,
payment collection and other export related documents.
4. Costing/Pricing
Costing is the principal task of any merchandisers.
Methods of Pricing:
1. Calculate the fixed and variable costs associated with the product.
2. Also the cost elements below need to consider during costing.
 Pricing for Fibers & Yarns
 Pricing for fabric manufacturing
Pricing for garment manufacturing
 Cost of accessories
 Commercial cost

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 Break-even point
 Consumption of fabric and accessories with wastage percentage.
 Total cost analysis (how much does it cost to provide merchandise to end customer)
11.11. Images of Garments Section
Figure: Sewing Floor

BUBT 130
Figure: Fabric Cutting
Figure: Folding room

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Figure: Ironing Unit
Figure: Packing room

BUBT 132
Figure: Inspection Floor

Industrial attachment of sadma fashion wear ltd. (2)

Industrial attachment of sadma fashion wear ltd. (2)

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