The document discusses sustainable innovation in fashion design materials and processes. It covers Summer Rayne Oakes' personal journey in sustainability and five principles of good design: being invisible, solving problems, considering life cycle, being transparent, and mimicking nature. Traditional versus technological silk production methods are examined. Spider silk fibers are described and advances in artificial silk production are outlined. The presentation concludes that a sustainable material considers environmental and human impacts across its full life cycle and that good sustainable design takes an open approach.

1. Sustainable
Innovation in Fashion
Design: Materials &
Processes
Summer Rayne Oakes
Source4Style.com

2. The New Art & Science of
Sustainable Design:
Innovations in the Textile & Apparel Industry
Summer Rayne Oakes
Sustainable Brands 6.9.10
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

3. Highlights
Personal journey
Five principles of good design
Clash of Cultures: Tradition &
Technology
Sustainability: Where industry is
headed
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

4. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

5. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

6. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

7. Thomas Shaha
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

8. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

9. Thomas Shaha
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10. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

11. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

12. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

13. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

14. Five Principles of Good Design
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15. Good design is invisible.
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16. Good design solves problems.
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17. Good design considers life cycle.
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18. Good design is transparent.
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19. Good design mimics nature.
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20. Traditional vs.Technological
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21. PD Silk Production
traditional
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23. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

24. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

25. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

26. PD Silk Production
technological
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27. Thomas Shaha
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

28. Wired.com
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

29. Spider Fibers
Large diameter egg
Case fiber (Tubuliform)
Flagelliform Aggregate Tubuliform
Minor ampullate
Capture Spiral
(Flagelliform)
Pyriform
Glue coating
Acini- (Aggregate silk) (?)
Major form
ampullate
Wrapping and egg case fiber
(aciniform)
Web reinforcement
(Minor ampullate
Dragline (major Pyriform silk (?)
1 and 2)
ampullate 1 and 2)
Vollrath, F. J. Biotechnol. 2000, 74, 67-83.
Hu, X. et al. Cell. Mol. Life Sci. 2006, 63, 1986-1999.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

30. Spider Fibers
Large diameter egg
Case fiber (Tubuliform)
Flagelliform Aggregate Tubuliform
Minor ampullate
Capture Spiral
(Flagelliform)
Pyriform
Glue coating
Acini- (Aggregate silk) (?)
Major form
ampullate
Wrapping and egg case fiber
(aciniform)
Web reinforcement
(Minor ampullate
Dragline (major Pyriform silk (?)
1 and 2)
ampullate 1 and 2)
Vollrath, F. J. Biotechnol. 2000, 74, 67-83.
Hu, X. et al. Cell. Mol. Life Sci. 2006, 63, 1986-1999.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

31. AMNH
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32. Schematic: Wikipedia
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33. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

34. Schematic: Wikipedia
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35. Wednesday, June 9, 2010

36. Wikipedia
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37. Material Mechanics
Energy to break (J/
Material Strength (GPa) Elasticity (%)
kg)
Nephila Dragline Silk 1.3 40 16x104
Araneus Dragline Silk 1.1 27 4x105
Bombyx mori Silk 0.5 15 6x104
Bombyx mori Silk
0.7 37 12x104
(artificial reeling)
Kevlar 3.6 5 3x104
Rubber 0.001 600 8x104
Nylon, Type 6 0.07 200 6x104
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

38. Advances in silk
Artificial reeling (spider silk) P
Artificial reeling (silkworm cocoon) D
Metal-enhanced silk via ALD
H
cDNA recombinant in mammalian
cells h
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39. Lesson:
Good design takes an Open
approach to sustainability
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40. What is a sustainable material?
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41. Parameter Description Units Weight
Carbon dioxide
GHG equivalents
Kg CO2 eq Kg/Fiber 20%
Acute toxicity, chronic LD/LC for dermal, oral,
Human Toxicity toxicity, reproductive inhalation; chronic 20%
hazard, carcinogenic toxicity score
Acute aquatic toxicity, Based on Material Data
Eco-Toxicity eco-toxicity potential Safety Sheet
20%
Total energy use
Energy Input including feedstock
MJ/Kg Fiber 13.33%
Water Input Water Usage Kg Water/Kg Fiber 13.33%
Land Use Yield Kg Fiber/Ha 13.33%
Made-By
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

42. CLASS A CLASS B CLASS C CLASS D CLASS E
Conventiona
Recycled
l Cotton
Cotton
Convention Virgin Nylon
Recycled
al Hemp Virgin 6
Nylon
Polyester
Tencel
Ramie Cupro
Recycled
Poly-
Polyester Organic
PLA acrylic Bamboo
Cotton
Rayon
Organic
Convention Modal
Hemp
al Flax Wool
Organic
Generic
Flax
Made-By Viscose
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

43. Sustainability is...
Environmentally-friendly materials
- (e.g., organic, recycled, biopolymer)
Environmental processes from farm to factory
- (e.g., GOTS-Certified, Water/Energy Efficient)
Fair Labor, Fair-Trade
- (e.g., Social Compliance, Fair Wages)
Handmade, Traditional
- (e.g., Preservation of crafts & culture)
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

44. Source4Style.com
Summer Rayne Oakes
646.395.3890
sro@s4style.net
Wednesday, June 9, 2010