Nanbokucho-period, Historical Origins of Modern Japan
nellie huang wild junket mag april may 2012
1. April/May 2012
Travel Light, Travel Far
10
sert
De ps!
Wild Africa
Remote jungles, canyons
Tri um,
adi R acama
W At
and bizarre stone forests
ra,
Saha more...
and
Sri Lanka
Serendipity on the Isle of Serendib
Tanzania
Africa's Big Five in photos
Mongolia
Living it up in a yurt
p60 Uruguay
Colonial towns, dramatic beaches and gaucho culture
our 10-page guide to the Pearl of South America
+ Kyrgyzstan | Leatherback Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda
2. April/May 2012
Travel Light, Travel Far
10
ert
Desps!
Wild Africa
Remote jungles, canyons
Tri
New Journey, New Life.
i Rum
,
Wad Atacama
and bizarre stone forests
ra,
Saha more...
and
Sri Lanka
Since the launch of our magazine, we have received a tremendous amount of positive feedback from
Serendipity on the Isle of Serendib readers and friends in the travel industry. Our first issue alone has received over two million views!
Tanzania We cannot thank you enough for your support - without you, we wouldn’t be doing what we love
Africa's Big Five in photos
Mongolia most. Stick around, we’ve got plenty more to share in upcoming issues.
Living it up in a yurt
Uruguay Meanwhile, we’ve worked hard to compile this second issue while on the road. We’re now in the
Colonial towns, dramatic beaches and gaucho culture
our 10-page guide to the Pearl of South America Philippines, a month into our journey around Asia. Although traveling and working on the magazine
+ Kyrgyzstan | Leatherback Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda
at the same time has been quite a challenge, we are loving this new location-independent lifestyle: our
On the Cover African Sunset new office is a bamboo hut on the beach, with the lapping waves and gentle
(Galyna Andrushko - fotolia) breeze as our background soundtrack.
WildJunket Magazine is a You’ll be seeing alot more on Asia in the upcoming issues, but in this
bi-monthly digital travel magazine edition, our focus is on Africa - with a cover feature from our recent trip to
with a focus on outdoor adventures Madagascar (p20), a photo essay of wildlife in Tanzania (p60), a story on
and sustainable travel. Our mission
gorilla tracking in Uganda (p80) and dispatches from Gabon (p40).
is to inspire readers to travel light
and travel far. We’ve also giving away free subscriptions to Inca Rally participants as well as
a one-week car rental to a lucky reader (details on p89).
Creative Director Alberto Molero
Editor-in-Chief Nellie Huang As always, we want to interact and socialize with you, our readers. If you have
Contributing Editor Candace Rardon photos, comments or tips to share, get in touch - we’d love to hear from you!
Gear Editor Lenore Greiner
Editorial Intern Allison Carlton
Nellie Huang
GET IN TOUCH Editor-in-Chief & Publisher
Contributors
Enquiries contact@wildjunket.com
Editorial editor@wildjunket.com
Advertising sales@wildjunket.com Interested in contributing? Refer to our website for details.
Web www.wildjunket.com
WildJunket Ltd, 2012.
Published by WildJunket Ltd, 163 Jalan
Loyang Besar, Singapore 503413. All rights
are reserved. Reproduction in any matter is
strictly prohibited without the approval of the
publishers. The views expressed in articles are
those of the writers, and not necessarily of the
publishers.
Anya Oskolkova Peter West Carey Allison Carlton
Born and raised in Russia, Anya Peter West Carey is a professional Our editorial intern, Allison Carlton is a
Oskolkova took her first trip abroad at photographer currently leading photo professional journalist with a passion for
the age of 7 and has been wandering tours to Bhutan, Nepal and India. adventure travel. She currently works as
the world since. She shares her stories He also hosts photography workshops Assistant Editor at True West Magazine,
on The Compulsive Traveler’s blog. in the USA. Read about him on the and blogs at the Traveling Bard. For
In our Travel Guide section, she writes Carey Adventures. See his photo essay each issue, she writes the Calendar (p58)
about Uruguay (p98). of wildlife in Tanzania on p60. and Trip Ideas (p16) pieces.
Summer Special!
Philippines
Colombia
For all your Madagascar travel arrangements. A small hands-on company based in Madagascar; 20+ Cook Islands
years experience specializing in custom tailored itineraries for individuals, families and small groups. Turkey
Unique alternatives to standard package tours with personalized service and excellent naturalist guides. Belize
Georgia Sherry Ott Lenore Greiner Andrea Wren
• Multi-Activity Programs • Avenue of the Baobabs • Filming & Research support Sherry Ott is a refugee from corporate Lenore Greiner is WildJunket’s in- Andrea Wren is an experienced
• Extensive Island Tours • Tsiribihina, Manambolo & • Honeymoons Morocco IT who is now a traveler, blogger,
and photographer. She’s co-founder
house travel gear editor (p114). She
blogs at TravelGearForWomen,
freelance journalist, travel writer and
blogger based in the UK. She writes
• Tsingy de Bemaraha Mangoky Rivers • Student GAP programs 10 Diving Trips of Meet, Plan, Go!, a national event
offering career break inspiration. She
helping women travel brilliantly. She
also writes for Delta Airlines’ Sky, San
for the Guardian, Wanderlust, and
The Independent. Andrea blogs at
also runs the travel blog Ottsworld. Francisco Chronicle, and Healing Butterflyist. In this issue, she brings us
+(261) 2095 523 47 +(261) 3247 326 70 info@remoterivers.com www.remoterivers.com
On sale 14 May 2012 See her photos of Sri Lanka on p48. Retreats and Spas. to Uganda (p80).
3. From the Road Regulars Insider
32 | Under the Radar: Kyrgyzstan 06 | Snapshots Feast on impressive photos from our 58 | Calendar A look at festivals and events happening
A country blessed with dramatic landscapes, untouched readers around the world. around the world this Apr/May.
nature and some of the most hospitable people in the world. 16 | Trip Ideas Ten ideas for desert trips - from the Sahara 110 | Stay Jordan’s stylish hot spring resort reinvents the
40 | Dispatches: Gabon to the Namib Desert. Middle Eastern bath experience.
Witness the rare phenomenon of leatherback turtles nesting 112 | Travel Rant How much do stereotypes speak the 114 | Gear We recommend a list of travel gear and
on tthe West African coast. truth? Mike Sowden muses, and rants, about busting electronics perfect for hiking this spring.
72 | Just Back: Inner Mongolia prejudices.
Live like nomads in China’s secret province, Inner Mongolia. 113 | Travel Thoughts Our columnist Candace Rardon
WIN
90 | Feast: South Korea ponders about the concept of ‘authentic’ travel.
We conquer an army of street foods in Seoul to hunt down 116 | Sketches Darbur Square, Kathmandu, in watercolors.
!
the best - and the most exotic.
aO ne-W
Car ee
See Rent k
pag al
e8 9
Inner Mongolia, China p72
80 Uganda Seoul, South Korea p90
Destination Features
18 | Madagascar
Explore the remote jungles, canyons and
bizarre stone forests of the Great Red Island. Kyrgyzstan p32
48 | Sri Lanka
After decades of civil war, we head back to
98 Uruguay
find renewed peace on the isle of Serendib.
Tanzania p60
60 | Tanzania
A photo essay of Africa’s Big Five on the
48 Sri Lanka
savannahs of Serengeti.
80 | Uganda
Head into the wilderness of Uganda and
come face to face with the famous gorillas.
98 | Travel Guide: Uruguay
Wander through the colonial towns,
windwept beaches and Gaucho lands
with our comprehensive travel guide on
Uruguay.
Madagascar 18
4. Lemaire Channel, Antarctica
“
Imagine being the only person for thousands
of miles. No lights, no noise, no airplanes, no
wifi. Just you, your travel mates and several thousand
penguins. After sailing down the Antarctic Peninsula,
heading into the Lemaire Channel, it became
apparent just how small we are in this vast world.
The Lemaire Channel is also known as “The Kodak
Gap” because of the stunning mountains, glaciers, and bright blue icebergs
surrounding the narrow passageway – it’s almost impossible to take a bad photo.
What made this morning particularly special though was how crystal
clear it was outside (the mountain tops are usually veiled in clouds).
- Meghan Palmer
Send us your photos and the stories behind them to editor@wildjunket.com
6 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 7
5. Sacred Valley, Peru
“
It was my first time in South America,
and this visit to the Sacred Valley
was one of the most defining moments
of the trip. The Sacred Valley lies within
the Andean mountain range, thousands
of feet above sea level. It was easy to see
just how skillful and disciplined the Incas
were: agricultural terraces were etched so perfectly in the hills
that they can still be used hundreds of years later. Buildings
that were constructed with stones painstakingly dragged
over long distances from neighbouring mountains,
still stand, long after the hands that laid them had gone.
- Alphis Tay
8 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 9
6. Kalahari, South Africa
“
Near South Africa’s northern border with
Namibia is an amazing research center for
meerkats. Literally dozens of clans of meerkats live
here as part of an Earthwatch volunteer project.
This is where the hit series Meerkat Manor was filmed;
a soap opera documentary that followed the lives of
a meerkat clan over the course of three seasons and
two movies. I was fortunate enough to join an Earthwatch volunteer
team last year and spend a few weeks with these charming little creatures.
Needless to say, the overall docile nature of these animals gave me ample
opportunity to take plenty of beautiful photographs. This is one of
my favorites and shows three meerkats in a typically vigilant stance.
Dale is a multi-award winning photographer based in South Africa. To see more of his
pictures visit www.geckoeye.com
- Dale Morris
10 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 11
7. Grand Canyon, Arizona
“
The moment I arrived at the Grand
Canyon National Park in Arizona,
I was immediately taken back by this
stunning geological display. My fear
of heights was quickly overcome by a
sense of amazement as I found myself
surrounded by billions of years of history,
compressed into giant gorges. Just before the park guides
gestured for me to step away from the edge of the canyon, I
snapped this picture of the Colorado River below, still
bewildered at the powerful wonderful of Mother Nature.
- Tracy Zhang
12 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 13
8. Negev Desert, Israel
“
Israel was one of the most surprising
countries for me as a world traveler. Not
only does the country offer unparalleled history
and culture, it also features dramatic landscape,
particularly attractive for desert-lovers like myself.
In December 2007, on our way from Masada to
the Red Sea (Eilat), we had the chance to drive
through parts of the extensive Negev Desert. By sunset, we stopped at
the north entrance of the Ramon Nature Reserve to visit the famous
Makhtesh Ramon. Even though it looks like a meteor crater, it is actually
a geological formation unique to the Negev desert. Unfortunately, we
could only stay for an hour or so, but it was enough to fall in love with
the view and its magnificent surrounding. Taking this picture
was an easy task, I just had to click and nature did the rest!.
- Mirella Matthiesen
14 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 15
9. Trip Ideas
10 Desert Experiences
5 4WD Adventures in the Outback,
Australia 7 Learn the history behind the
desert, Egypt
1 Trek through the Valley of
the Moon, Chile Get a balance of the desert and sea on this
6 Celebrate the Festival of the
Desert, Mali
Experience one of the most extraordinary Go back in time with the Nile Valley and
For adventurists, the Atacama Desert four-day Monkey Mia, Kalbarri and Pinnacles annual music events with this Festival of the Western Desert tour offered by World
7 Day Trek offered by Cascada trip offered by Adventure Tours that takes Desert tour offered by Kumuka. The journey Expeditions. Visit the legendary Giza
Expediciones offers the unique chance you from the coast to the desert of Western brings you through three countries: Ghana, Pyramids, along with the Roman hot springs
to trek and explore the unworldly Australia. Go sand boarding in Nambung Burkina Faso and Mali. Explore West Af- and stop at ancient temples and tombs that
landscapes of Atacama Desert. From rica's largest market, sail the Niger River and
National Park, where you’ll wander through once belonged to the ancient pharaohs while
sunsets to sunrises, you’ll get to see stay with the Tuareg people after a camel
the mysterious Pinnacle Desert, before cruising the majestic Nile River to Cairo.
the beauty of the desert while trekking ride through the Sahara. The tour’s main
through impressive rock formations of abseiling down Murchison Gorge in Kalbarri highlight is the three-day Festival of the The highlight of the tour is the desert: get
the Cordillera de la Sal, up the cacti- NP. Then trade the sand for surf at Shark Bay and Desert that includes art expos, camel rides lost amidst the bizarre limestone formations
studded slopes of Licancabur Volcano, swim with the famous local dolphins of Monkey and games. Note: there is a current travel of White Desert, climb the rose-red cliffs in
while visiting historical places like the Mia. This trip truly gives you a diverse experience warning against Northern Mali; check FCO Dakhla Oasis and marvel at the green island of
Fortress of Quitor and indigenous along WA’s Coral Coast. for current safety advice. Kharga Oasis in the ocean of sand.
villages. Tour operator: Adventure Tours Tour operator: Kumuka Tour operator: World Expeditions
Tour operator: Cascada Departures: twice a week year-round Departures: January Departures: September 2012 to April 2013
Departures: year-round Duration: 4 days Duration: 20 days Duration: 14 days
Duration: 7 days Cost: US$685 (exc. flights) Cost: US$4,290.00 (exc. flights) Cost: from US$2,290
Cost: from US$2,190 (exc. flights)
2 Wander through the world’s
oldest desert, Namibia 4 Camp in yurts in Gobi’s Desert,
Mongolia 8 Stargaze in the Sahara,
Morocco 10 Live like a Bedouin,
Jordan
Wildlife and nature are the main attractions
3 Desert romance in the Thar,
India
On this TransIndus private tour, you'll have Dive deep into the heart of Mongolia on this The Moroccan Sahara Escape tour offered by
9 From the desert to the coast,
Oman
Undiscovered Destinations’ From the Desert The Lawrence of Arabia’s Adventures tour
on this Dunes, Deltas and Falls tour offered the opportunity to truly develop a personal Discover the Gobi Desert trip with On The Go Specialist Morocco takes you on an exciting to the Coast tour is a short seven-day trip organized by Explore is an action-packed
by G Adventures. This 21-day camping trip connection with the desert as you spend Tours. This one-of-a-kind tour allows you to journey on a 4x4 deep into the mystical packed full of local culture and history. Admire journey that’s excellent for families and
starts from Livingstone, Zambia, bringing two weeks traversing through the Thar experience the Gobi Desert, the second largest the architecture in the capital city of Muscat adventurous couples. You’ll get to explore
Sahara Desert.Visit the UNESCO World
you through Botswana and Namibia to Cape desert in the world - through camel rides, train the legendary highlights of Jordan including
in Rajasthan, India. The Desert Romance Heritage site Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou, before heading through the desert to meet the
Town, South Africa. Not only will you see the journeys and history lessons. By incorporating the lost city of Petra, Kerak’s Crusader castle
itinerary leads you on camel safaris through before heading into the desert on camelback green turtles in the sanctuary Ras al Hadd.
Big Five from an overland truck, you'll get to visits to the Natural History Museum, Gandan and the Dead Sea. Follow the footsteps of
the sand dunes of Osian, jeep tours around monastery and Migjid Janraisag temple, you'll Drive through the red and white dunes of
paddle through the Okavango Delta, wonder and sleeping under the stars by night. You’ll Lawrence of Arabia, camping under the
Rawla Narlai, boat rides on the Chambai have a well-rounded tour of the Gobi in just Wahiba Sands before visiting the 17th century
at the magnitude of Victoria Falls, and most also head up to the Atlas mountains to stars in the Wadi Rum desert and learning
River as well as visits to desert towns, Jain eight days. Highlights of the trip include Jabrin Castle and the Jebel Akdhar fort. The
importantly, catch sunrise on the rose-red hike in the Toubkal National Park before about traditional life from local Bedouins.
temples and havelis - all these in the comfort yurt camping, visits to the flaming cliffs of trip culminates with a hike in Jebel Shams, the
sand dunes and visit the eerie Dead Vlei in the spending a night in a Berber village. Finally cool off from the heat in the clear
of heritage hotels and historical mansions. Bayanzag and climbing the dunes of Moltsog ‘Grand Canyon of Oman’.
world’s oldest desert. blue waters and coral reefs of the Red Sea.
Tour operator: Transindus Els. Tour operator: Specialist Morocco
Tour operator: G Adventures Tour operator: Undiscovered Destinations Tour operator: Explore
Departures: mid-October to mid-March Tour operator: On The Go Tours Departures: from September to June
Departures: year-round Departures: March and October Departures: monthly year-round
Duration: 16 days Departures: year-round Duration: 5 days
Duration: 21 days Duration: 7 days Duration: 9 days
Duration: 8 days Cost: from US$639 (exc. flights)
Cost: from US$5,550 (inc. flights from UK) Cost: US$1,780 (exc. flights) Cost: US$1,180 (exc. flights)
Cost: from US$2,199 (exc. flights) Cost: from US$$5,468 (exc. flights)
16 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 17
10. The Lost Island
From endemic wildlife to bizarre stone forests and unexplored
beaches, remote Madagascar may just be one of Africa’s last
great unknowns.
Words Nellie Huang | Photographs Alberto Molero
18 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 19
11. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR
I
t was a tail. A very long, white jungle – and also the main draw for the of lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of
and bushy tail. It swung back and few intrepid travelers who make their endemic plants, including the bizarre
forth in our direction, combing way to this remote isle each year. spiny ocotillo tree and the bottle-
the breeze for our presence as we Most people come to Madagascar shaped baobab.
slowly approached. Bending our to get a first-hand look at its unique Slightly bigger than California,
backs and straining our eyes against wildlife, with the lemur as the headline Madagascar is the fourth largest island
the sunlight, we watched as the ape- act. But as my photographer husband in the world. Stretching out over
like animal leapt from tree to tree and I traversed through Madagascar 3,100 miles (5,000 km) of untouched
towards us. 30 feet, 15 feet, five feet. – from lemur-stalked Kirindy to the coastline, it features extremely diverse
It was in full view now – all of its stone pinnacles Tsingy de Bemaraha, terrains and habitats: from the
white furry body, long monkey limbs, and then on to the laid back beach dramatic mountains of the north to
webbed feet and olive green eyes. Just town of Morondava – it was quickly pristine spearmint-blue beaches in the
inches before us the creature curiously apparent there’s far more to see in this south; from green humid rainforests in
sniffed us out, with not the least bit of largely unexplored part of Africa. the east to the spiny forests of the west.
apprehension. Sadly, Madagascar’s age of innocence
A lemur. To be precise, a Verreaux’s Biodiversity Hotspot might be short-lived. With problems
sifaka, which is also known as Marooned in the vast Indian Ocean, like civil unrest, corruption and over-
a dancing lemur for its comical la Grand Île is home to an uncommon exploitation of resources plaguing
locomotion on the ground. This group of animals and plants found the country, the United Nations
primate is one of the most popular nowhere else in the world. Most of Environment Programme (UNEP) has
lemurs and definitely the weirdest. these have evolved after the island’s declared Madagascar’s ecosystem one Wild Spirit:
Just 15 minutes into the Kirindy separation from the African continent of the most threatened in the world. A furry white Verraux
Forest Reserve and we’d seen our 165 million years ago. Only in Lemurs are facing extinction as some Sifaka scrambles up a tree
first lemur. Here on the island of Madagascar can you find the world’s tribes in Madagascar continue to hunt Opposite: The terrain in
Madagascar, lemurs are the stars of the biggest chameleons, over 70 species them for bush meat while patches of Southern Madagascar
20 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 21
12. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR DESTINATION MADAGASCAR
Tsingy de Bemaraha: Our local park
ranger crossing the bridge that spans
across the rock pinnacles.
less-trodden path. bathing themselves in the brackish national park is protected by ANGAP,
“Resembling scenes out of a sci-fi movie, the stone At the end of the tormenting ride
we arrived at the Tsiribihina River, a
water, women dressed in colorful
lambas crossing the river on their
which had a series of wire railings put
in place by a team of climbers and
forest features jagged limestone pinnacles and major waterway that winds westwards
through Madagascar, flowing over a
pirogues (dugout canoes). By the time
we got to the Bemaraha Mountains,
researchers.
Guided by a local park ranger, we
needle-sharp peaks, some reaching up to 600 feet.” distance of 91 miles (146 km) into the
Mozambique Channel. We waited for
the last ebb of the sun had faded in the
distance, and wispy clouds hung low
clambered up the steel tracks and
scrambled from one razor-sharp peak
our turn to hop on the car ferry by the above our heads. We were moving at a to another, balancing our way in a less-
crowded river banks. slow pace in Madagascar, but for once, than-fancy fashion. It’s no wonder the
wild forests on the island are slowly Now that the island is slowly and rum-colored rivers. Villages and “Mora mora,” advised our guide we didn’t mind. Malagasies had aptly named the stone
disappearing due to illegal logging. regaining political stability, there is no people were few and far between. As Heri. Slowly, slowly. “In Madagascar, forest tsingy, meaning ‘tip-toe’.
On the bright side, all is not lost – better time to return to the Great Red tarmac gave way to bare earth, it was things move slowly. You never know Spiky Peaks The trail brought us up steep
several wildlife conservation groups Island. obvious we were seeping deeper into how long we need to wait. It can be The journey was well worth it: our limestone faces, through narrow
such as World Wide Fund for Nature rural Africa. an hour or a whole day. So be patient, destination, the Tsingy de Bemaraha, winding canyons and sliding down
(WWF) are working with Madagascar’s The Wild West Getting to Bemaraha was an just smile and wait.” Our stout, fit was nothing quite like anything I’d slick curves. As I scaled higher towards
ANGAP (National Association for the The next morning at the crack of experience of its own. We plunged and and knowledgable guide always had seen. Resembling scenes out of a sci-fi the highest point of the tsingy, I looked
Management of Protected Areas) to dawn, we made our way to the remote lurched for 60 miles (100 km) over wise words to share – he gave us a movie, the stone forest features jagged down and my head swirled in 360
promote awareness and implement region of the Bemaraha Mountains. four hours on a treacherously bumpy deep glimpse into Madagascar and its limestone pinnacles and needle-sharp degrees. Luckily for the safety harness
measures. Locals are gradually coming They don’t call this the ‘wild west’ for trail flanked by thick, dense foliage. culture. peaks, some reaching up to 600 feet and the guide’s encouragement, I
to grips with the reality that their nothing. With few roads connecting Overland travel in Madagascar can be We spent the afternoon watching (200 meters) in height - a result of made it up to the peak, giddy with
wealth is in their wildlife and natural here to the rest of the country, this brutal, especially on this part of the villagers go about their daily lives millions of years of rainwater lashes excitement.
environment. Tourism is an integral hard-to-reach region is pockmarked island - but somehow the remoteness - men leading theirs herds of zebus and trickling of streams. Now a Below us was a blinding jumble -
part to rebuilding the country. with robust baobab trees, red earth and inaccessibility made this feel like a (ox) along the marshy banks, children UNESCO World Heritage Site, the the chiseled karst stones poked out
22 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 23
13. Sunrise at Manambolo: Locals
“Only in Madagascar can you find the world’s biggest chameleons, over glide by on a pirogue.
Bottom (left to right): Thousand-
70 species of lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of endemic plants.” year-old trees along the Avenue
du Baobab; Scrambling down the
jagged pinnacles of the tsingy.
into the skies, vying for sunlight with vertiginous cliffs of limestone topped the tsingy lay vast, sandy plains
pachypodium cacti; lemurs leapt from with karst rock pinnacles and trees. All punctuated with tall bottle-shaped
one pointed needle to another; while was still except for the dancing light baobab trees whose branches soared
the orange-brown Manambolo River on the water – and an odd wheezing sky-high, resembling roots in the air.
snaked through lush emerald forests sound among the overhanging foliage. Heri insisted we catch the sunset along
in the distance. It was a vision of a It could have been a snake or a lemur, Avenue du Baobab, the island’s most
primeval paradise. Most of all, we had but we glided into safety before the famous road lined with hundred-year-
it all to ourselves. creature revealed itself. old baobabs. I, on the other hand, was
At 5.30a.m. the next day, we arrived By the time we weaved our way unsure if I wanted to share the rare
at the riverbank to see bats flitting midway into the gorge, the sun had solitude I’d found in Madagascar with
about in the pre-dawn haze. The river fired up the canyon, splashing its other tourists.
would give us a different perspective of rays beyond the canopy of pinnacles. But as soon as we stood in the
the tsingy, Heri said. Why at this hour, I smiled at Heri, thankful for this shadow of the serendipitously aligned
I protested. “You’ll soon find out.” spectacular sight - rising early sure was row of baobabs, I fell silent in awe.
We hopped onto our pirogue, worth it. Heri was right again – this was
a water taxi of some sort in the something. Even in the light of day, the
Tsiribihina region. As we glided Baobab Nation dirt road had an ethereal atmosphere
silently into the Manambolo Gorge, Back out on the muddy road, it was to it, especially so with the trees’
the sandy riverbanks gave way to tall a different world again. Beyond silhouettes reflected in the water lily
1
5 Other wildlife
watching spots
Réserve Spéciale de L’ankàrana
Located in northern Madagascar, this 45,109 acre
(18,225 hectare) reserve is a patchwork of ruby-red tsingy,
semi-dry forests, caves and subterranean rivers. It’s an
excellent place to spot nocturnal sportive lemurs – don’t be
surprised to find them popping their heads out of holes in
the forest.
2 Parc National d’Andasibe-Mantadia
This high-altitude rainforest on the island’s east coast is
the best place to see the Indri, the largest lemur species. You’ll
4 Parc Nacional de Ranomafana
As one of Madagascar’s most popular parks,
Ranomafana is most famous for its green, luscious
also find eight other species of lemur including the rare grey environment. In the 98,842 acre (40,000 hectare) misty cloud
bamboo lemur, as well as Parson’s chameleons, Madagascar forest, you’ll have the chance to see two rare lemur species
blue pigeons and long-eared owls. Listen out for the weird – the golden bamboo lemur and the greater bamboo lemur -
howling of the Indri in the early morning. who make their home amidst waterfalls and rolling hills.
3 La Réserve Privée d’Anjajavy
Accessible only by air on the remote northwestern
coast, Anjajavy promises the most prolific collection of
5 Anja Reserve
Anja Reserve is the most visited community managed
forest and is famed for its dense population of ring-tailed
wildlife from chameleons to the Coquerel’s sifaka and the lemurs. Situated 8 miles (13 km) south of Ambalavao, the
elusive Fossa. Cut off from the rest of the isle, this reserve is reserve is easily accessible via the National Route 7. The
truly untouched and well worth the journey. reserve entrance fees go to the local Malagasy community.
24 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 25
14. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR DESTINATION MADAGASCAR
When asked why Madagascar of all places, he pointed out to the view
Explore Offbeat Village Life - Manafiafy
Southern Madagascar is sprinkled with
ahead of us and said, “Look at this, how can you not fall in love?”
secluded offshore islets and steeped in
Madagascar tribal traditions. Go whale watching,
deep sea fishing or visit a castaway
ponds beneath and locals trotting past
on their zebu carts.
melodious series of “Tonga Soa”.
Welcome. We threw off our backpacks,
Baholy. When asked why Madagascar
of all places, he pointed out to the view
Sandstone Canyons of Isalo island and wander through local At sunset, the dramatic scene took left our hiking boots behind and ahead of us and said, “Look at this,
Without the ring-tailed lemurs you’d villages. There’s also a whole world of on even more theatrical dimensions: headed straight for the waves. how can you not fall in love?”
never guess this is Madagascar. The forest reserves and mangroves excellent as the giant orange yolk sank over the Overlooking the Mozambique Over the next few days we kicked
brown sandstone gorges of Isalo National for nocturnal lemur and bird-watching. canopy of baobabs, the color of the sky Channel, Morondava bakes in a strong back and enjoyed a different side to
Park resemble those of the Grand Canyon Experience all of it at the exclusive shimmered and dazzled - changing Caribbean light and its people groove Madagascar. A sunset pirogue ride
and they promise superb hiking with a Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest to a similar tune. Its wide sandy beach in the nearby mangroves yielded
from bright vermillion to gentle
range of trails that vary in difficulty. Two Lodge where you can explore the runs for miles alongside a strip of impressive bird watching opportunities
area with a naturalist, relax in your mandarin, and eventually a shade of
boutique lodges near Ranohira provide clapboard houses and beach bars. from the blue-throated kingfishers to
first-world comforts and cuisine: Relais
Baobab Galore in Ifaty luxurious thatched bungalow and enjoy gold. The fascinating transformation
Just 164 miles (265 km) from Isalo is from day to night took place in a sheer On the dark blue waters, fishermen egrets and herons; we made friends
de la Reine and Jardin du Roy. Both a true Robinson Crusoe experience.
the beach town of Ifaty, famed for its cast nets against the backdrop of with local fishermen on the nearby isle
boast European lodge décor and a lavish (Prices start from US$318 per person matter of minutes – and yet, it stayed
baobab reserves more than the beach. per night).
coconut palms swaying their fronds of Betania and watched them catch
teak wood setting. (Room rates from deeply imprinted in my memories.
US$105 per night)
The coast is excellent for snorkeling like Rastafari dreads. By the white giant tilapias; and on a chirpy Saturday,
and diving, especially for sharks. But shoreline, local women sashay in their we wandered through the colorful
the nearby Renialia Nature Reserve Beach Bumming colorful lambas with buckets of fresh local market and chatted with friendly
is the main attraction - with its Through the dusty dirt roads of the fish on their heads. locals.
1,200-year-old baobabs, bizarre spiny west, we reached the breezy winds It’s a view that many would kill to It was beautiful, but like everywhere
forests and resident spiders, scorpions and laid back vibes of Morondava. have as their daily backdrop, and Gary else in Madagascar, it was the solitude
and hedgehogs. To kick back, the lavish After days of hiking, kayaking and
waterfront bungalows at Le Paradisier
Lemmer is one of the lucky few to call that struck me most. While the
forest-trekking, we felt in need of this home. Having lived and worked in improved political situation might see
promise tranquility, comfort and an
atmospheric backdrop. (Room rates some relaxation and found it at the several parts of Africa, Gary decided an increase in travelers, until then, this
from US$86 per night). beachside lodge, Chez Maggie. to settle in Madagascar and now runs wildly remote island remains hidden
Upon arrival, we were met by a Chez Maggie with his Malagasy wife, and lost in its own world. 1
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15. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR
(3-hour journey; return airfares from
TRIP DETAILS US$900). The total journey times are
The author traveled with Remote River around 20 hours from North America and
Expeditions – Madagascar on a tailor- total return airfare starts from US$2,000.
made trip. The six-day trip departs and
ends in Morondava. Three to six-day
custom programs are available from
+ Getting around
Domestic flights on Air
bungalows and a luxurious swimming
Madagascar are the most feasible way of
May to November. Prices start from pool overlooking the stone forest. Room
exploring the island, as they’re fast and
US$420 per person, with breakfasts, rates start from 35,000 MGA (US$16) for
relativelycheap as compared to renting a
dinners, transportation (on a 4x4), a single room to 60,000 MGA for doubles
car or booking a tour. They range from
accommodations, park entry fees and (US$28).
US$250 to $350 each way. Public transport
an English-speaking naturalist guide
Madagascar’s Wildlife: (Clockwise from top left) is neither efficient nor comfortable. Chez Maggie stands out for its cozy,
included. International airfare, lunches
However, if you’re on a budget and have homely setting and beachfront location
and drinks are at your own expense.
time to spare, the taxi-brousse can be an – with private bungalows, spacious two-
Gentle Spikes: A baby hedgehog curled
interesting way to explore the island from
up in Renialia Nature Reserve.
Curious Eyes: A red-fronted lemur
ú When to go
October and November is the best a local perspective.
story chalets, a swimming pool and the
best restaurant in town. Room rates start
from 88,000 MGA (US$41).
observes us from a tree. time to visit as temperatures are mild and Since certain parts are very remote and
roads are still accessible. Avoid the rainy desolate, the only way to get around
Dancing Lemur: A Verraux Sifaka hangs
from a branch.
Birds of Paradise: The Paradise
season (January to March) as there is a
high risk of cyclones and some roads can
sometimes after flying there is to rent
a car. In Madagascar, car rental usually
Ö Cost of travel
The currency used in Madagascar
be inaccessible due to the rain. In general, comes with a driver – hiring without is the Malagasy ariary (MGA). Currently
Flycatcher adds color to Kirindy Forest. there is an extreme temperature difference one tends to be more expensive. Car hire the exchange rate is at US$1 to 2,163
Colored Creatures: A Warty Chameleon between the hauts plateaux (central prices vary according to the duration of MGA. Prices are cheap in Madagascar
camouflages on a light brown branch. highlands) and the coast. Summer sees rental and the type of vehicle but generally but tours, private transportation and
Carnivore Alert: The ferocious fossa, temperatures rising to a sweltering 104°F ( range from US$60 for a small car to US$80 hotel prices can be costly like in other
Madagascar’s only predator. 40°C) along the coast while Antananarivo for a 4x4. parts of Africa. Hotel room rates are
and the highlands can get as low as very affordable in most parts of the
Cobalt Sweetness: A beautiful Malachite
Kingfisher in Morondava’s mangroves.
Locust Pocus: Multi-colored locust in
46°F (8°C) come winter (December to
February). W Accommodation
Due to the remoteness of certain
country, ranging from US$18 to US$100.
Restaurant prices will also suit most
budgets, from a simple local dish for 4,300
parts of Madagascar, there are few
Isalo. If you’re planning to travel in the central
accommodation choices except in the MGA (US$2) to a European meal costing
highlands, be sure to bring warm clothes around 17,000 MGA (US$8).
capital. Options in the island’s more
regardless of the season as temperatures
far-flung corners can range from basic
are around 59°F (15°C) even in the
summer. The coastal areas are generally
hot year round, although it can be nippy at
wooden huts to high-end luxury resorts.
Sakamanga Hotel, located in the heart of
V PackingWeather can be extreme regardless
of the time of year so bring clothing to fit
night in the winter. Antananarivo’s old town, features colorful, all seasons. In winter, you’ll need a fleece
eclectic rooms of varying size and price. and a thick winter coat, especially if you
! Getting there
A lack of direct flights to
Room rates start from 52,000 MGA
(US$24).
plan to travel in the central highlands.
In summer, bring a few layers such
Antananarivo makes it tricky to find singlets, long-sleeved shirts and a light
Kirindy Reserve Bungalows is the only
cheap airfare, especially from the US. The jacket for the cool nights. Take sunglasses
accommodation available in the forest
best way to reach Antananarivo involves and sunscreen, especially in summer.
reserve. Although the wooden huts are
flying to either Paris or to Johannesburg Binoculars are essential.
basic with few facilities, they give you the
and taking a connecting flight on to Ivato
real experience of ‘sleeping in a forest’.
International Airport. Air Madagascar and
Air France fly three to four times weekly
from Paris to Antananarivo (13-hour
Room rates start from 37,000 MGA
(US$17).
M Websites
Here are some helpful links
journey; return airfares from US$1,300). L’Olympe du Bemaraha is one of the Madagascar National Tourism Board
Air Madagascar also flies twice weekly most upscale hotels near the Tsingy Parcs Madagascar
from Johannesburg to Antananarivo de Bemaraha with lavish teak wood Lonely Planet Madagascar
28 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 29
16. Advertorial
Ultimate Madagascar:
A River Expedition Along the Mangoky
Rivers, rainforests and highlands: explore the
island of contrasts with Remote River Expeditions
Photos by Norman King
I
solated for millions of years in contrasting terrains and habitats: from Featured in the book 1,000 Places Highlights of the trip
the Indian Ocean, Madagascar’s the central highlands to the humid to Visit Before You Die by Patricia
• 7-day calm water rafting
flora and fauna has evolved in rainforests in the east, dry sandstone Schultz, this is a world-class river
such a unique way that 18th cliffs in the west and bizarre karst • Andasibe Rainforest Reserve
and camping experience. With expert
century French explorer Philippe forests in the north. • Kirindy Forest Reserve
naturalist guides to lead the way and
de Commerson described the island To experience all of it in one trip, • Avenue of the Baobabs
an experienced cook to prepare meals
as "the naturalist's promised land”. He Remote River Expeditions has specially
over an open fire, this expedition is an • Scuba-diving in Ifaty
wrote, "Nature seems to have retreated designed a program, Mangoky River,
excellent mix of adventure, culture and • Hotel Stay in Morondava
there into a private sanctuary where Rainforest & West, which brings you on
she could work on different models a touch of luxury in the wilderness. • Expert English-speaking
an action-packed adventure across the
from any she used elsewhere." naturalists/guides
country.
Although much has changed on Float past the world’s largest baobab Dates: May 23 - Jun 09, 2012 • Maximum 10 people
Madagascar since the 18th century, it forest, catch magnificent sunsets along • Includes all river and camping
Duration: 18-Days
remains a true naturalist’s paradise. the river banks, spot a wide myriad equipment
No Amazon jungle can beat the of lemurs, birds and bats and go on Cost: $3,340 (exc. flights) • 4WD transportation
diversity and uniqueness of species to hikes and nocturnal walks - the Single Supplement: $210
be found here. Besides outstanding multi-activitiy itinerary of this 18-day For more details, check
13 & 15-Day Programs also available
wildlife, Madagascar also boasts expedition will bring you through a Remote River Expeditions.
extreme biodiversity - featuring very great variety of ecosystems.
30 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 31
17. At Home in
Kyrgyzstan
This Central Asian country has dramatic mountain
landscapes, pristine nature and outstanding
trekking opportunities - but it’s the people who
make it an experience you’ll never forget.
woRds and photos by NATASHA VON GELDERN
32 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 33