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April/May 2012




                                             Travel Light, Travel Far

             10
             sert
          De ps!
                                     Wild Africa
                                             Remote jungles, canyons
           Tri       um,
                adi R acama
               W At
                                             and bizarre stone forests
                 ra,
             Saha more...
                and




       Sri Lanka
       Serendipity on the Isle of Serendib

       Tanzania
       Africa's Big Five in photos

       Mongolia
       Living it up in a yurt

p60    Uruguay
       Colonial towns, dramatic beaches and gaucho culture
       our 10-page guide to the Pearl of South America
      + Kyrgyzstan | Leatherback Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda
April/May 2012




                                                                                                                                                  Travel Light, Travel Far

                                                                                                                  10
                                                                                                                    ert
                                                                                                               Desps!
                                                                                                                                          Wild Africa
                                                                                                                                                  Remote jungles, canyons
                                                                                                                Tri
                                                                                                                                                                                     New Journey, New Life.
                                                                                                                        i Rum
                                                                                                                              ,
                                                                                                                    Wad Atacama
                                                                                                                                                  and bizarre stone forests
                                                                                                                      ra,
                                                                                                                  Saha more...
                                                                                                                     and




                                                                                                            Sri Lanka
                                                                                                                                                                                     Since the launch of our magazine, we have received a tremendous amount of positive feedback from
                                                                                                            Serendipity on the Isle of Serendib                                      readers and friends in the travel industry. Our first issue alone has received over two million views!
                                                                                                            Tanzania                                                                 We cannot thank you enough for your support - without you, we wouldn’t be doing what we love
                                                                                                            Africa's Big Five in photos

                                                                                                            Mongolia                                                                 most. Stick around, we’ve got plenty more to share in upcoming issues.
                                                                                                            Living it up in a yurt

                                                                                                            Uruguay                                                                  Meanwhile, we’ve worked hard to compile this second issue while on the road. We’re now in the
                                                                                                            Colonial towns, dramatic beaches and gaucho culture
                                                                                                            our 10-page guide to the Pearl of South America                          Philippines, a month into our journey around Asia. Although traveling and working on the magazine
                                                                                                           + Kyrgyzstan | Leatherback Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda
                                                                                                                                                                                     at the same time has been quite a challenge, we are loving this new location-independent lifestyle: our
                                                                                                           On the Cover African Sunset                                               new office is a bamboo hut on the beach, with the lapping waves and gentle
                                                                                                           (Galyna Andrushko - fotolia)                                              breeze as our background soundtrack.
                                                                                                           WildJunket Magazine is a                                                  You’ll be seeing alot more on Asia in the upcoming issues, but in this
                                                                                                           bi-monthly digital travel magazine                                        edition, our focus is on Africa - with a cover feature from our recent trip to
                                                                                                           with a focus on outdoor adventures                                        Madagascar (p20), a photo essay of wildlife in Tanzania (p60), a story on
                                                                                                           and sustainable travel. Our mission
                                                                                                                                                                                     gorilla tracking in Uganda (p80) and dispatches from Gabon (p40).
                                                                                                           is to inspire readers to travel light
                                                                                                           and travel far.                                                           We’ve also giving away free subscriptions to Inca Rally participants as well as
                                                                                                                                                                                     a one-week car rental to a lucky reader (details on p89).
                                                                                                           Creative Director Alberto Molero
                                                                                                           Editor-in-Chief Nellie Huang                                              As always, we want to interact and socialize with you, our readers. If you have
                                                                                                           Contributing Editor Candace Rardon                                        photos, comments or tips to share, get in touch - we’d love to hear from you!
                                                                                                           Gear Editor Lenore Greiner
                                                                                                           Editorial Intern Allison Carlton
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Nellie Huang
                                                                                                           GET IN TOUCH                                                                                                                               Editor-in-Chief & Publisher



                                                                                                                                                                                    Contributors		
                                                                                                           Enquiries contact@wildjunket.com
                                                                                                           Editorial editor@wildjunket.com
                                                                                                           Advertising sales@wildjunket.com                                                                                                                     Interested in contributing? Refer to our website for details.
                                                                                                           Web www.wildjunket.com
                                                                                                           WildJunket Ltd, 2012.
                                                                                                           Published by WildJunket Ltd, 163 Jalan
                                                                                                           Loyang Besar, Singapore 503413. All rights
                                                                                                           are reserved. Reproduction in any matter is
                                                                                                           strictly prohibited without the approval of the
                                                                                                           publishers. The views expressed in articles are
                                                                                                           those of the writers, and not necessarily of the
                                                                                                           publishers.


                                                                                                                                                                                    Anya Oskolkova                            Peter West Carey                                Allison Carlton
                                                                                                                                                                                    Born and raised in Russia, Anya           Peter West Carey is a professional              Our editorial intern, Allison Carlton is a
                                                                                                                                                                                    Oskolkova took her first trip abroad at   photographer currently leading photo            professional journalist with a passion for
                                                                                                                                                                                    the age of 7 and has been wandering       tours to Bhutan, Nepal and India.               adventure travel. She currently works as
                                                                                                                                                                                    the world since. She shares her stories   He also hosts photography workshops             Assistant Editor at True West Magazine,
                                                                                                                                                                                    on The Compulsive Traveler’s blog.        in the USA. Read about him on the               and blogs at the Traveling Bard. For
                                                                                                                                                                                    In our Travel Guide section, she writes   Carey Adventures. See his photo essay           each issue, she writes the Calendar (p58)
                                                                                                                                                                                     about Uruguay (p98).                      of wildlife in Tanzania on p60.                 and Trip Ideas (p16) pieces.


                                                                                                           Summer Special!
                                                                                                           Philippines
                                                                                                           Colombia
For all your Madagascar travel arrangements. A small hands-on company based in Madagascar; 20+             Cook Islands
years experience specializing in custom tailored itineraries for individuals, families and small groups.   Turkey
Unique alternatives to standard package tours with personalized service and excellent naturalist guides.   Belize
                                                                                                           Georgia                                                                  Sherry Ott                                Lenore Greiner                                  Andrea Wren
   •	 Multi-Activity Programs         •	 Avenue of the Baobabs            •	 Filming & Research support                                                                             Sherry Ott is a refugee from corporate    Lenore Greiner is WildJunket’s in-              Andrea Wren is an experienced

   •	 Extensive Island Tours          •	 Tsiribihina, Manambolo &         •	 Honeymoons                    Morocco                                                                  IT who is now a traveler, blogger,
                                                                                                                                                                                    and photographer.  She’s co-founder
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              house travel gear editor (p114). She
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              blogs at TravelGearForWomen,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              freelance journalist, travel writer and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              blogger based in the UK. She writes

   •	 Tsingy de Bemaraha                 Mangoky Rivers                   •	 Student GAP programs          10 Diving Trips                                                          of Meet, Plan, Go!, a national event
                                                                                                                                                                                    offering career break inspiration. She
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              helping women travel brilliantly. She
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              also writes for Delta Airlines’ Sky, San
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              for the Guardian, Wanderlust, and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              The Independent. Andrea blogs at
                                                                                                                                                                                    also runs the travel blog Ottsworld.      Francisco Chronicle, and Healing                Butterflyist. In this issue, she brings us

+(261) 2095 523 47       +(261) 3247 326 70        info@remoterivers.com     www.remoterivers.com
                                                                                                                 On sale 14 May 2012                                                 See her photos of Sri Lanka on p48.       Retreats and Spas.                              to Uganda (p80).
From the Road                                                  Regulars                                                       Insider
                                                 32 | Under the Radar: Kyrgyzstan                               06 | Snapshots Feast on impressive photos from our             58 | Calendar A look at festivals and events happening
                                                 A country blessed with dramatic landscapes, untouched          readers around the world.                                      around the world this Apr/May.
                                                 nature and some of the most hospitable people in the world.    16 | Trip Ideas Ten ideas for desert trips - from the Sahara   110 | Stay Jordan’s stylish hot spring resort reinvents the
                                                 40 | Dispatches: Gabon                                         to the Namib Desert.                                           Middle Eastern bath experience.
                                                 Witness the rare phenomenon of leatherback turtles nesting     112 | Travel Rant How much do stereotypes speak the            114 | Gear We recommend a list of travel gear and
                                                 on tthe West African coast.                                    truth? Mike Sowden muses, and rants, about busting             electronics perfect for hiking this spring.
                                                 72 | Just Back: Inner Mongolia                                 prejudices.
                                                 Live like nomads in China’s secret province, Inner Mongolia.   113 | Travel Thoughts Our columnist Candace Rardon


                                                                                                                                                                                                                  WIN
                                                 90 | Feast: South Korea                                        ponders about the concept of ‘authentic’ travel.
                                                 We conquer an army of street foods in Seoul to hunt down       116 | Sketches Darbur Square, Kathmandu, in watercolors.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   !
                                                 the best - and the most exotic.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 aO    ne-W
                                                                                                                                                                                                             Car                  ee
                                                                                                                                                                                                             See  Rent k
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 pag al
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    e8              9

                                                                                                                                                                                 Inner Mongolia, China p72



                                                                                                                                     80 Uganda                                                                       Seoul, South Korea p90

Destination Features
18 | Madagascar
Explore the remote jungles, canyons and
bizarre stone forests of the Great Red Island.                                                                                                              Kyrgyzstan p32
48 | Sri Lanka
After decades of civil war, we head back to
                                                                           98 Uruguay
find renewed peace on the isle of Serendib.
                                                                                                                      Tanzania p60
60 | Tanzania
A photo essay of Africa’s Big Five on the
                                                                                                                                                                                                             48 Sri Lanka
savannahs of Serengeti.
80 | Uganda
Head into the wilderness of Uganda and
come face to face with the famous gorillas.
98 | Travel Guide: Uruguay
Wander through the colonial towns,
windwept beaches and Gaucho lands
with our comprehensive travel guide on
Uruguay.
                                                                                                                                                                         Madagascar    18
Lemaire Channel, Antarctica

                                “
                               Imagine being the only person for thousands
                               of miles. No lights, no noise, no airplanes, no
                         wifi. Just you, your travel mates and several thousand
                         penguins. After sailing down the Antarctic Peninsula,
                         heading into the Lemaire Channel, it became
                         apparent just how small we are in this vast world.
                         The Lemaire Channel is also known as “The Kodak
    Gap” because of the stunning mountains, glaciers, and bright blue icebergs
    surrounding the narrow passageway – it’s almost impossible to take a bad photo.
    What made this morning particularly special though was how crystal
    clear it was outside (the mountain tops are usually veiled in clouds).

    - Meghan Palmer
                                                                                      Send us your photos and the stories behind them to editor@wildjunket.com
6 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                                                                      www.wildjunket.com | 7
Sacred Valley, Peru

                                “
                                 It was my first time in South America,
                                 and this visit to the Sacred Valley
                           was one of the most defining moments
                           of the trip. The Sacred Valley lies within
                           the Andean mountain range, thousands
                           of feet above sea level. It was easy to see
                           just how skillful and disciplined the Incas
   were: agricultural terraces were etched so perfectly in the hills
   that they can still be used hundreds of years later. Buildings
   that were constructed with stones painstakingly dragged
   over long distances from neighbouring mountains,
   still stand, long after the hands that laid them had gone.

   - Alphis Tay

8 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                             www.wildjunket.com | 9
Kalahari, South Africa

                                 “
                                       Near South Africa’s northern border with
                                       Namibia is an amazing research center for
                                 meerkats. Literally dozens of clans of meerkats live
                                 here as part of an Earthwatch volunteer project.
                                 This is where the hit series Meerkat Manor was filmed;
                                 a soap opera documentary that followed the lives of
                                 a meerkat clan over the course of three seasons and
                                 two movies. I was fortunate enough to join an Earthwatch volunteer
                                 team last year and spend a few weeks with these charming little creatures.
                                 Needless to say, the overall docile nature of these animals gave me ample
                                 opportunity to take plenty of beautiful photographs. This is one of
                                 my favorites and shows three meerkats in a typically vigilant stance.
                                 Dale is a multi-award winning photographer based in South Africa. To see more of his
                                 pictures visit www.geckoeye.com

                                 - Dale Morris




10 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                          www.wildjunket.com | 11
Grand Canyon, Arizona

                                 “
                            The moment I arrived at the Grand
                            Canyon National Park in Arizona,
                       I was immediately taken back by this
                       stunning geological display. My fear
                       of heights was quickly overcome by a
                       sense of amazement as I found myself
                       surrounded by billions of years of history,
   compressed into giant gorges. Just before the park guides
   gestured for me to step away from the edge of the canyon, I
   snapped this picture of the Colorado River below, still
   bewildered at the powerful wonderful of Mother Nature.

   - Tracy Zhang

12 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                       www.wildjunket.com | 13
Negev Desert, Israel

                                 “
                                       Israel  was one of the most surprising
                                       countries for me as a world traveler. Not
                                 only does the country offer unparalleled history
                                 and culture, it also features dramatic landscape,
                                 particularly attractive for desert-lovers like myself.
                                 In December 2007, on our way from Masada to
                                 the Red Sea (Eilat), we had the chance to drive
                                 through parts of the extensive Negev Desert. By sunset, we stopped at
                                 the north entrance of the Ramon Nature Reserve to visit the famous
                                 Makhtesh Ramon. Even though it looks like a meteor crater, it is actually
                                 a geological formation unique to the Negev desert. Unfortunately, we
                                 could only stay for an hour or so, but it was enough to fall in love with
                                 the view and its magnificent surrounding. Taking this picture
                                 was an easy task, I just had to click and nature did the rest!.

                                 - Mirella Matthiesen
14 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                              www.wildjunket.com | 15
Trip Ideas
                                                                  10 Desert Experiences
                                                                                                                                                      5    4WD Adventures in the Outback,
                                                                                                                                                           Australia                                                                                           7    Learn the history behind the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    desert, Egypt




                                                                                                         1    Trek through the Valley of
                                                                                                              the Moon, Chile                         Get a balance of the desert and sea on this
                                                                                                                                                                                                            6    Celebrate the Festival of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Desert, Mali
                                                                                                                                                                                                             Experience one of the most extraordinary          Go back in time with the Nile Valley and
                                                                                                         For adventurists, the Atacama Desert         four-day Monkey Mia, Kalbarri and Pinnacles            annual music events with this Festival of the     Western Desert tour offered by World
                                                                                                         7 Day Trek offered by Cascada                trip offered by Adventure Tours that takes             Desert tour offered by Kumuka. The journey        Expeditions. Visit the legendary Giza
                                                                                                         Expediciones offers the unique chance        you from the coast to the desert of Western            brings you through three countries: Ghana,        Pyramids, along with the Roman hot springs
                                                                                                         to trek and explore the unworldly            Australia. Go sand boarding in Nambung                 Burkina Faso and Mali. Explore West Af-           and stop at ancient temples and tombs that
                                                                                                         landscapes of Atacama Desert. From                                                                  rica's largest market, sail the Niger River and
                                                                                                                                                      National Park, where you’ll wander through                                                               once belonged to the ancient pharaohs while
                                                                                                         sunsets to sunrises, you’ll get to see                                                              stay with the Tuareg people after a camel
                                                                                                                                                      the mysterious Pinnacle Desert, before                                                                   cruising the majestic Nile River to Cairo.
                                                                                                         the beauty of the desert while trekking                                                             ride through the Sahara. The tour’s main
                                                                                                         through impressive rock formations of        abseiling down Murchison Gorge in Kalbarri             highlight is the three-day Festival of the        The highlight of the tour is the desert: get
                                                                                                         the Cordillera de la Sal, up the cacti-      NP. Then trade the sand for surf at Shark Bay and      Desert that includes art expos, camel rides       lost amidst the bizarre limestone formations
                                                                                                         studded slopes of Licancabur Volcano,        swim with the famous local dolphins of Monkey          and games. Note: there is a current travel        of White Desert, climb the rose-red cliffs in
                                                                                                         while visiting historical places like the    Mia. This trip truly gives you a diverse experience    warning against Northern Mali; check FCO          Dakhla Oasis and marvel at the green island of
                                                                                                         Fortress of Quitor and indigenous            along WA’s Coral Coast.                                for current safety advice.                        Kharga Oasis in the ocean of sand.
                                                                                                         villages.                                    Tour operator: Adventure Tours                         Tour operator: Kumuka                             Tour operator: World Expeditions
                                                                                                         Tour operator: Cascada                       Departures: twice a week year-round                    Departures: January                               Departures: September 2012 to April 2013
                                                                                                         Departures: year-round                       Duration: 4 days                                       Duration: 20 days                                 Duration: 14 days
                                                                                                         Duration: 7 days                             Cost: US$685 (exc. flights)                            Cost: US$4,290.00 (exc. flights)                  Cost: from US$2,290
                                                                                                         Cost: from US$2,190 (exc. flights)




2     Wander through the world’s
      oldest desert, Namibia                                                                       4    Camp in yurts in Gobi’s Desert,
                                                                                                        Mongolia                                      8     Stargaze in the Sahara,
                                                                                                                                                            Morocco                                                                                            10        Live like a Bedouin,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Jordan




Wildlife and nature are the main attractions
                                                  3   Desert romance in the Thar,
                                                      India
                                                  On this TransIndus private tour, you'll have     Dive deep into the heart of Mongolia on this        The Moroccan Sahara Escape tour offered by
                                                                                                                                                                                                            9    From the desert to the coast,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Oman
                                                                                                                                                                                                            Undiscovered Destinations’ From the Desert          The Lawrence of Arabia’s Adventures tour
on this Dunes, Deltas and Falls tour offered      the opportunity to truly develop a personal      Discover the Gobi Desert trip with On The Go        Specialist Morocco takes you on an exciting          to the Coast tour is a short seven-day trip         organized by Explore is an action-packed
by G Adventures. This 21-day camping trip         connection with the desert as you spend          Tours. This one-of-a-kind tour allows you to        journey on a 4x4 deep into the mystical              packed full of local culture and history. Admire    journey that’s excellent for families and
starts from Livingstone, Zambia, bringing         two weeks traversing through the Thar            experience the Gobi Desert, the second largest                                                           the architecture in the capital city of Muscat      adventurous couples. You’ll get to explore
                                                                                                                                                       Sahara Desert.Visit the UNESCO World
you through Botswana and Namibia to Cape                                                           desert in the world - through camel rides, train                                                                                                             the legendary highlights of Jordan including
                                                  in Rajasthan, India. The Desert Romance                                                              Heritage site Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou,                before heading through the desert to meet the
Town, South Africa. Not only will you see the                                                      journeys and history lessons. By incorporating                                                                                                               the lost city of Petra, Kerak’s Crusader castle
                                                  itinerary leads you on camel safaris through                                                         before heading into the desert on camelback          green turtles in the sanctuary Ras al Hadd.
Big Five from an overland truck, you'll get to                                                     visits to the Natural History Museum, Gandan                                                                                                                 and the Dead Sea. Follow the footsteps of
                                                  the sand dunes of Osian, jeep tours around       monastery and Migjid Janraisag temple, you'll                                                            Drive through the red and white dunes of
paddle through the Okavango Delta, wonder                                                                                                              and sleeping under the stars by night. You’ll                                                            Lawrence of Arabia, camping under the
                                                  Rawla Narlai, boat rides on the Chambai          have a well-rounded tour of the Gobi in just                                                             Wahiba Sands before visiting the 17th century
at the magnitude of Victoria Falls, and most                                                                                                           also head up to the Atlas mountains to                                                                   stars in the Wadi Rum desert and learning
                                                  River as well as visits to desert towns, Jain    eight days. Highlights of the trip include                                                               Jabrin Castle and the Jebel Akdhar fort. The
importantly, catch sunrise on the rose-red                                                                                                             hike in the Toubkal National Park before                                                                 about traditional life from local Bedouins.
                                                  temples and havelis - all these in the comfort   yurt camping, visits to the flaming cliffs of                                                            trip culminates with a hike in Jebel Shams, the
sand dunes and visit the eerie Dead Vlei in the                                                                                                        spending a night in a Berber village.                                                                    Finally cool off from the heat in the clear
                                                  of heritage hotels and historical mansions.      Bayanzag and climbing the dunes of Moltsog                                                               ‘Grand Canyon of Oman’.
world’s oldest desert.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          blue waters and coral reefs of the Red Sea.
                                                  Tour operator: Transindus                        Els.                                                Tour operator: Specialist Morocco
Tour operator: G Adventures                                                                                                                                                                                 Tour operator: Undiscovered Destinations            Tour operator: Explore
                                                  Departures: mid-October to mid-March             Tour operator: On The Go Tours                      Departures: from September to June
Departures: year-round                                                                                                                                                                                      Departures: March and October                       Departures: monthly year-round
                                                  Duration: 16 days                                Departures: year-round                              Duration: 5 days
Duration: 21 days                                                                                                                                                                                           Duration: 7 days                                    Duration: 9 days
                                                                                                   Duration: 8 days                                    Cost: from US$639 (exc. flights)
                                                  Cost: from US$5,550 (inc. flights from UK)                                                                                                                Cost: US$1,780 (exc. flights)                       Cost: US$1,180 (exc. flights)
Cost: from US$2,199 (exc. flights)                                                                 Cost: from US$$5,468 (exc. flights)

16 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             www.wildjunket.com | 17
The Lost Island
From endemic wildlife to bizarre stone forests and unexplored
beaches, remote Madagascar may just be one of Africa’s last
great unknowns.
                                                                Words Nellie Huang | Photographs Alberto Molero
18 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                      www.wildjunket.com | 19
DESTINATION MADAGASCAR




I
       t was a tail. A very long, white     jungle – and also the main draw for the    of lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of
       and bushy tail. It swung back and    few intrepid travelers who make their      endemic plants, including the bizarre
       forth in our direction, combing      way to this remote isle each year.         spiny ocotillo tree and the bottle-
       the breeze for our presence as we      Most people come to Madagascar           shaped baobab.
       slowly approached. Bending our       to get a first-hand look at its unique        Slightly bigger than California,
backs and straining our eyes against        wildlife, with the lemur as the headline   Madagascar is the fourth largest island
the sunlight, we watched as the ape-        act. But as my photographer husband        in the world. Stretching out over
like animal leapt from tree to tree         and I traversed through Madagascar         3,100 miles (5,000 km) of untouched
towards us. 30 feet, 15 feet, five feet.    – from lemur-stalked Kirindy to the        coastline, it features extremely diverse
   It was in full view now – all of its     stone pinnacles Tsingy de Bemaraha,        terrains and habitats: from the
white furry body, long monkey limbs,        and then on to the laid back beach         dramatic mountains of the north to
webbed feet and olive green eyes. Just      town of Morondava – it was quickly         pristine spearmint-blue beaches in the
inches before us the creature curiously     apparent there’s far more to see in this   south; from green humid rainforests in
sniffed us out, with not the least bit of   largely unexplored part of Africa.         the east to the spiny forests of the west.
apprehension.                                                                             Sadly, Madagascar’s age of innocence
   A lemur. To be precise, a Verreaux’s     Biodiversity Hotspot                       might be short-lived. With problems
sifaka, which is also known as              Marooned in the vast Indian Ocean,         like civil unrest, corruption and over-
a dancing lemur for its comical             la Grand Île is home to an uncommon        exploitation of resources plaguing
locomotion on the ground. This              group of animals and plants found          the country, the United Nations
primate is one of the most popular          nowhere else in the world. Most of         Environment Programme (UNEP) has
lemurs and definitely the weirdest.         these have evolved after the island’s      declared Madagascar’s ecosystem one                           Wild Spirit:
   Just 15 minutes into the Kirindy         separation from the African continent      of the most threatened in the world.                A furry white Verraux
Forest Reserve and we’d seen our            165 million years ago. Only in             Lemurs are facing extinction as some            Sifaka scrambles up a tree
first lemur. Here on the island of          Madagascar can you find the world’s        tribes in Madagascar continue to hunt              Opposite: The terrain in
Madagascar, lemurs are the stars of the     biggest chameleons, over 70 species        them for bush meat while patches of                 Southern Madagascar

20 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                                                                  www.wildjunket.com | 21
DESTINATION MADAGASCAR                                                                                                                                                                                                          DESTINATION MADAGASCAR




                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Tsingy de Bemaraha: Our local park
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          ranger crossing the bridge that spans
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     across the rock pinnacles.


                                                                                                                                   less-trodden path.                        bathing themselves in the brackish         national park is protected by ANGAP,
  “Resembling scenes out of a sci-fi movie, the stone                                                                                At the end of the tormenting ride
                                                                                                                                   we arrived at the Tsiribihina River, a
                                                                                                                                                                             water, women dressed in colorful
                                                                                                                                                                             lambas crossing the river on their
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        which had a series of wire railings put
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        in place by a team of climbers and

  forest features jagged limestone pinnacles and                                                                                   major waterway that winds westwards
                                                                                                                                   through Madagascar, flowing over a
                                                                                                                                                                             pirogues (dugout canoes). By the time
                                                                                                                                                                             we got to the Bemaraha Mountains,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        researchers.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Guided by a local park ranger, we

  needle-sharp peaks, some reaching up to 600 feet.”                                                                               distance of 91 miles (146 km) into the
                                                                                                                                   Mozambique Channel. We waited for
                                                                                                                                                                             the last ebb of the sun had faded in the
                                                                                                                                                                             distance, and wispy clouds hung low
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        clambered up the steel tracks and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        scrambled from one razor-sharp peak
                                                                                                                                   our turn to hop on the car ferry by the   above our heads. We were moving at a       to another, balancing our way in a less-
                                                                                                                                   crowded river banks.                      slow pace in Madagascar, but for once,     than-fancy fashion. It’s no wonder the
wild forests on the island are slowly        Now that the island is slowly             and rum-colored rivers. Villages and          “Mora mora,” advised our guide          we didn’t mind.                            Malagasies had aptly named the stone
disappearing due to illegal logging.      regaining political stability, there is no   people were few and far between. As         Heri. Slowly, slowly. “In Madagascar,                                                forest tsingy, meaning ‘tip-toe’.
  On the bright side, all is not lost –   better time to return to the Great Red       tarmac gave way to bare earth, it was       things move slowly. You never know        Spiky Peaks                                   The trail brought us up steep
several wildlife conservation groups      Island.                                      obvious we were seeping deeper into         how long we need to wait. It can be       The journey was well worth it: our         limestone faces, through narrow
such as World Wide Fund for Nature                                                     rural Africa.                               an hour or a whole day. So be patient,    destination, the Tsingy de Bemaraha,       winding canyons and sliding down
(WWF) are working with Madagascar’s       The Wild West                                   Getting to Bemaraha was an               just smile and wait.” Our stout, fit      was nothing quite like anything I’d        slick curves. As I scaled higher towards
ANGAP (National Association for the       The next morning at the crack of             experience of its own. We plunged and       and knowledgable guide always had         seen. Resembling scenes out of a sci-fi    the highest point of the tsingy, I looked
Management of Protected Areas) to         dawn, we made our way to the remote          lurched for 60 miles (100 km) over          wise words to share – he gave us a        movie, the stone forest features jagged    down and my head swirled in 360
promote awareness and implement           region of the Bemaraha Mountains.            four hours on a treacherously bumpy         deep glimpse into Madagascar and its      limestone pinnacles and needle-sharp       degrees. Luckily for the safety harness
measures. Locals are gradually coming     They don’t call this the ‘wild west’ for     trail flanked by thick, dense foliage.      culture.                                  peaks, some reaching up to 600 feet        and the guide’s encouragement, I
to grips with the reality that their      nothing. With few roads connecting           Overland travel in Madagascar can be          We spent the afternoon watching         (200 meters) in height - a result of       made it up to the peak, giddy with
wealth is in their wildlife and natural   here to the rest of the country, this        brutal, especially on this part of the      villagers go about their daily lives      millions of years of rainwater lashes      excitement.
environment. Tourism is an integral       hard-to-reach region is pockmarked           island - but somehow the remoteness         - men leading theirs herds of zebus       and trickling of streams. Now a               Below us was a blinding jumble -
part to rebuilding the country.           with robust baobab trees, red earth          and inaccessibility made this feel like a   (ox) along the marshy banks, children     UNESCO World Heritage Site, the            the chiseled karst stones poked out

22 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                                                                                                                                                                 www.wildjunket.com | 23
Sunrise at Manambolo: Locals
  “Only in Madagascar can you find the world’s biggest chameleons, over                                                                              glide by on a pirogue.
                                                                                                                                          Bottom (left to right): Thousand-
    70 species of lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of endemic plants.”                                                                    year-old trees along the Avenue
                                                                                                                                          du Baobab; Scrambling down the
                                                                                                                                             jagged pinnacles of the tsingy.
into the skies, vying for sunlight with          vertiginous cliffs of limestone topped        the tsingy lay vast, sandy plains
pachypodium cacti; lemurs leapt from             with karst rock pinnacles and trees. All      punctuated with tall bottle-shaped
one pointed needle to another; while             was still except for the dancing light        baobab trees whose branches soared
the orange-brown Manambolo River                 on the water – and an odd wheezing            sky-high, resembling roots in the air.
snaked through lush emerald forests              sound among the overhanging foliage.          Heri insisted we catch the sunset along
in the distance. It was a vision of a            It could have been a snake or a lemur,        Avenue du Baobab, the island’s most
primeval paradise. Most of all, we had           but we glided into safety before the          famous road lined with hundred-year-
it all to ourselves.                             creature revealed itself.                     old baobabs. I, on the other hand, was
   At 5.30a.m. the next day, we arrived             By the time we weaved our way              unsure if I wanted to share the rare
at the riverbank to see bats flitting            midway into the gorge, the sun had            solitude I’d found in Madagascar with
about in the pre-dawn haze. The river            fired up the canyon, splashing its            other tourists.
would give us a different perspective of         rays beyond the canopy of pinnacles.             But as soon as we stood in the
the tsingy, Heri said. Why at this hour,         I smiled at Heri, thankful for this           shadow of the serendipitously aligned
I protested. “You’ll soon find out.”             spectacular sight - rising early sure was     row of baobabs, I fell silent in awe.
   We hopped onto our pirogue,                   worth it.                                     Heri was right again – this was
a water taxi of some sort in the                                                               something. Even in the light of day, the
Tsiribihina region. As we glided                 Baobab Nation                                 dirt road had an ethereal atmosphere
silently into the Manambolo Gorge,               Back out on the muddy road, it was            to it, especially so with the trees’
the sandy riverbanks gave way to tall            a different world again. Beyond               silhouettes reflected in the water lily




    1
      5           Other wildlife
                  watching spots
          Réserve Spéciale de L’ankàrana
         Located in northern Madagascar, this 45,109 acre
    (18,225 hectare) reserve is a patchwork of ruby-red tsingy,
    semi-dry forests, caves and subterranean rivers. It’s an
    excellent place to spot nocturnal sportive lemurs – don’t be
    surprised to find them popping their heads out of holes in
    the forest.


    2       Parc National d’Andasibe-Mantadia
           This high-altitude rainforest on the island’s east coast is
    the best place to see the Indri, the largest lemur species. You’ll
                                                                         4     Parc Nacional de Ranomafana
                                                                                 As one of Madagascar’s most popular parks,
                                                                         Ranomafana is most famous for its green, luscious
    also find eight other species of lemur including the rare grey       environment. In the 98,842 acre (40,000 hectare) misty cloud
    bamboo lemur, as well as Parson’s chameleons, Madagascar             forest, you’ll have the chance to see two rare lemur species
    blue pigeons and long-eared owls. Listen out for the weird           – the golden bamboo lemur and the greater bamboo lemur -
    howling of the Indri in the early morning.                           who make their home amidst waterfalls and rolling hills.


    3       La Réserve Privée d’Anjajavy
           Accessible only by air on the remote northwestern
    coast, Anjajavy promises the most prolific collection of
                                                                         5     Anja Reserve
                                                                                Anja Reserve is the most visited community managed
                                                                         forest and is famed for its dense population of ring-tailed
    wildlife from chameleons to the Coquerel’s sifaka and the            lemurs. Situated 8 miles (13 km) south of Ambalavao, the
    elusive Fossa. Cut off from the rest of the isle, this reserve is    reserve is easily accessible via the National Route 7. The
    truly untouched and well worth the journey.                          reserve entrance fees go to the local Malagasy community.



24 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                                                                            www.wildjunket.com | 25
DESTINATION MADAGASCAR                                                                                                                                                                                                             DESTINATION MADAGASCAR




                                                                                                                                       When asked why Madagascar of all places, he pointed out to the view
    Explore Offbeat                                                                          Village Life - Manafiafy
                                                                                             Southern Madagascar is sprinkled with
                                                                                                                                       ahead of us and said, “Look at this, how can you not fall in love?”
                                                                                             secluded offshore islets and steeped in
    Madagascar                                                                               tribal traditions. Go whale watching,
                                                                                             deep sea fishing or visit a castaway
                                                                                                                                       ponds beneath and locals trotting past
                                                                                                                                       on their zebu carts.
                                                                                                                                                                                 melodious series of “Tonga Soa”.
                                                                                                                                                                                 Welcome. We threw off our backpacks,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Baholy. When asked why Madagascar
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           of all places, he pointed out to the view
    Sandstone Canyons of Isalo                                                               island and wander through local             At sunset, the dramatic scene took      left our hiking boots behind and          ahead of us and said, “Look at this,
    Without the ring-tailed lemurs you’d                                                     villages. There’s also a whole world of   on even more theatrical dimensions:       headed straight for the waves.            how can you not fall in love?”
    never guess this is Madagascar. The                                                      forest reserves and mangroves excellent   as the giant orange yolk sank over the       Overlooking the Mozambique               Over the next few days we kicked
    brown sandstone gorges of Isalo National                                                 for nocturnal lemur and bird-watching.    canopy of baobabs, the color of the sky   Channel, Morondava bakes in a strong      back and enjoyed a different side to
    Park resemble those of the Grand Canyon                                                  Experience all of it at the exclusive     shimmered and dazzled - changing          Caribbean light and its people groove     Madagascar. A sunset pirogue ride
    and they promise superb hiking with a                                                    Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest                                                      to a similar tune. Its wide sandy beach   in the nearby mangroves yielded
                                                                                                                                       from bright vermillion to gentle
    range of trails that vary in difficulty. Two                                             Lodge where you can explore the                                                     runs for miles alongside a strip of       impressive bird watching opportunities
                                                                                             area with a naturalist, relax in your     mandarin, and eventually a shade of
    boutique lodges near Ranohira provide                                                                                                                                        clapboard houses and beach bars.          from the blue-throated kingfishers to
    first-world comforts and cuisine: Relais
                                                   Baobab Galore in Ifaty                    luxurious thatched bungalow and enjoy     gold. The fascinating transformation
                                                   Just 164 miles (265 km) from Isalo is                                               from day to night took place in a sheer   On the dark blue waters, fishermen        egrets and herons; we made friends
    de la Reine and Jardin du Roy. Both                                                      a true Robinson Crusoe experience.
                                                   the beach town of Ifaty, famed for its                                                                                        cast nets against the backdrop of         with local fishermen on the nearby isle
    boast European lodge décor and a lavish                                                  (Prices start from US$318 per person      matter of minutes – and yet, it stayed
                                                   baobab reserves more than the beach.      per night).
                                                                                                                                                                                 coconut palms swaying their fronds        of Betania and watched them catch
    teak wood setting. (Room rates from                                                                                                deeply imprinted in my memories.
    US$105 per night)
                                                   The coast is excellent for snorkeling                                                                                         like Rastafari dreads. By the white       giant tilapias; and on a chirpy Saturday,
                                                   and diving, especially for sharks. But                                                                                        shoreline, local women sashay in their    we wandered through the colorful
                                                   the nearby Renialia Nature Reserve                                                  Beach Bumming                             colorful lambas with buckets of fresh     local market and chatted with friendly
                                                   is the main attraction - with its                                                   Through the dusty dirt roads of the       fish on their heads.                      locals.
                                                   1,200-year-old baobabs, bizarre spiny                                               west, we reached the breezy winds            It’s a view that many would kill to      It was beautiful, but like everywhere
                                                   forests and resident spiders, scorpions                                             and laid back vibes of Morondava.         have as their daily backdrop, and Gary    else in Madagascar, it was the solitude
                                                   and hedgehogs. To kick back, the lavish                                             After days of hiking, kayaking and
                                                   waterfront bungalows at Le Paradisier
                                                                                                                                                                                 Lemmer is one of the lucky few to call    that struck me most. While the
                                                                                                                                       forest-trekking, we felt in need of       this home. Having lived and worked in     improved political situation might see
                                                   promise tranquility, comfort and an
                                                   atmospheric backdrop. (Room rates                                                   some relaxation and found it at the       several parts of Africa, Gary decided     an increase in travelers, until then, this
                                                   from US$86 per night).                                                              beachside lodge, Chez Maggie.             to settle in Madagascar and now runs      wildly remote island remains hidden
                                                                                                                                         Upon arrival, we were met by a          Chez Maggie with his Malagasy wife,       and lost in its own world. 1

26 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                                                                                                                                                                     www.wildjunket.com | 27
DESTINATION MADAGASCAR




                                                                                                                                   (3-hour journey; return airfares from
                                                                                    TRIP DETAILS                                   US$900). The total journey times are
                                                                                    The author traveled with Remote River          around 20 hours from North America and
                                                                                    Expeditions – Madagascar on a tailor-          total return airfare starts from US$2,000.
                                                                                    made trip. The six-day trip departs and
                                                                                    ends in Morondava. Three to six-day
                                                                                    custom programs are available from
                                                                                                                                   + Getting around
                                                                                                                                           Domestic flights on Air
                                                                                                                                                                                  bungalows and a luxurious swimming
                                                                                                                                   Madagascar are the most feasible way of
                                                                                    May to November. Prices start from                                                            pool overlooking the stone forest. Room
                                                                                                                                   exploring the island, as they’re fast and
                                                                                    US$420 per person, with breakfasts,                                                           rates start from 35,000 MGA (US$16) for
                                                                                                                                   relativelycheap as compared to renting a
                                                                                    dinners, transportation (on a 4x4),                                                           a single room to 60,000 MGA for doubles
                                                                                                                                   car or booking a tour. They range from
                                                                                    accommodations, park entry fees and                                                           (US$28).
                                                                                                                                   US$250 to $350 each way. Public transport
                                                                                    an English-speaking naturalist guide
                                 Madagascar’s Wildlife: (Clockwise from top left)                                                  is neither efficient nor comfortable.          Chez Maggie stands out for its cozy,
                                                                                    included. International airfare, lunches
                                                                                                                                   However, if you’re on a budget and have        homely setting and beachfront location
                                                                                    and drinks are at your own expense.
                                                                                                                                   time to spare, the taxi-brousse can be an      – with private bungalows, spacious two-
                                 Gentle Spikes: A baby hedgehog curled
                                                                                                                                   interesting way to explore the island from
                                 up in Renialia Nature Reserve.
                                 Curious Eyes: A red-fronted lemur
                                                                                    ú When to go
                                                                                            October and November is the best       a local perspective.
                                                                                                                                                                                  story chalets, a swimming pool and the
                                                                                                                                                                                  best restaurant in town. Room rates start
                                                                                                                                                                                  from 88,000 MGA (US$41).
                                 observes us from a tree.                           time to visit as temperatures are mild and     Since certain parts are very remote and
                                                                                    roads are still accessible. Avoid the rainy    desolate, the only way to get around
                                 Dancing Lemur: A Verraux Sifaka hangs
                                 from a branch.
                                 Birds of Paradise: The Paradise
                                                                                    season (January to March) as there is a
                                                                                    high risk of cyclones and some roads can
                                                                                                                                   sometimes after flying there is to rent
                                                                                                                                   a car. In Madagascar, car rental usually
                                                                                                                                                                                  Ö Cost of travel
                                                                                                                                                                                          The currency used in Madagascar
                                                                                    be inaccessible due to the rain. In general,   comes with a driver – hiring without           is the Malagasy ariary (MGA). Currently
                                 Flycatcher adds color to Kirindy Forest.           there is an extreme temperature difference     one tends to be more expensive. Car hire       the exchange rate is at US$1 to 2,163
                                 Colored Creatures: A Warty Chameleon               between the hauts plateaux (central            prices vary according to the duration of       MGA. Prices are cheap in Madagascar
                                 camouflages on a light brown branch.               highlands) and the coast. Summer sees          rental and the type of vehicle but generally   but tours, private transportation and
                                 Carnivore Alert: The ferocious fossa,              temperatures rising to a sweltering 104°F (    range from US$60 for a small car to US$80      hotel prices can be costly like in other
                                 Madagascar’s only predator.                        40°C) along the coast while Antananarivo       for a 4x4.                                     parts of Africa. Hotel room rates are
                                                                                    and the highlands can get as low as                                                           very affordable in most parts of the
                                 Cobalt Sweetness: A beautiful Malachite
                                 Kingfisher in Morondava’s mangroves.
                                 Locust Pocus: Multi-colored locust in
                                                                                    46°F (8°C) come winter (December to
                                                                                    February).                                     W Accommodation
                                                                                                                                            Due to the remoteness of certain
                                                                                                                                                                                  country, ranging from US$18 to US$100.
                                                                                                                                                                                  Restaurant prices will also suit most
                                                                                                                                                                                  budgets, from a simple local dish for 4,300
                                                                                                                                   parts of Madagascar, there are few
                                 Isalo.                                             If you’re planning to travel in the central
                                                                                                                                   accommodation choices except in the            MGA (US$2) to a European meal costing
                                                                                    highlands, be sure to bring warm clothes                                                      around 17,000 MGA (US$8).
                                                                                                                                   capital. Options in the island’s more
                                                                                    regardless of the season as temperatures
                                                                                                                                   far-flung corners can range from basic
                                                                                    are around 59°F (15°C) even in the
                                                                                    summer. The coastal areas are generally
                                                                                    hot year round, although it can be nippy at
                                                                                                                                   wooden huts to high-end luxury resorts.
                                                                                                                                   Sakamanga Hotel, located in the heart of
                                                                                                                                                                                  V PackingWeather can be extreme regardless
                                                                                                                                                                                  of the time of year so bring clothing to fit
                                                                                    night in the winter.                           Antananarivo’s old town, features colorful,    all seasons. In winter, you’ll need a fleece
                                                                                                                                   eclectic rooms of varying size and price.      and a thick winter coat, especially if you
                                                                                    ! Getting there
                                                                                            A lack of direct flights to
                                                                                                                                   Room rates start from 52,000 MGA
                                                                                                                                   (US$24).
                                                                                                                                                                                  plan to travel in the central highlands.
                                                                                                                                                                                  In summer, bring a few layers such
                                                                                    Antananarivo makes it tricky to find                                                          singlets, long-sleeved shirts and a light
                                                                                                                                   Kirindy Reserve Bungalows is the only
                                                                                    cheap airfare, especially from the US. The                                                    jacket for the cool nights. Take sunglasses
                                                                                                                                   accommodation available in the forest
                                                                                    best way to reach Antananarivo involves                                                       and sunscreen, especially in summer.
                                                                                                                                   reserve. Although the wooden huts are
                                                                                    flying to either Paris or to Johannesburg                                                     Binoculars are essential.
                                                                                                                                   basic with few facilities, they give you the
                                                                                    and taking a connecting flight on to Ivato
                                                                                                                                   real experience of ‘sleeping in a forest’.
                                                                                    International Airport. Air Madagascar and
                                                                                    Air France fly three to four times weekly
                                                                                    from Paris to Antananarivo (13-hour
                                                                                                                                   Room rates start from 37,000 MGA
                                                                                                                                   (US$17).  
                                                                                                                                                                                  M Websites
                                                                                                                                                                                         Here are some helpful links

                                                                                    journey; return airfares from US$1,300).       L’Olympe du Bemaraha is one of the             Madagascar National Tourism Board
                                                                                    Air Madagascar also flies twice weekly         most upscale hotels near the Tsingy            Parcs Madagascar
                                                                                    from Johannesburg to Antananarivo              de Bemaraha with lavish teak wood              Lonely Planet Madagascar

28 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                                                                                                                             www.wildjunket.com | 29
Advertorial




Ultimate Madagascar:
A River Expedition Along the Mangoky
Rivers, rainforests and highlands: explore the
island of contrasts with Remote River Expeditions

                                                                                                  Photos by Norman King




I
      solated for millions of years in    contrasting terrains and habitats: from       Featured in the book 1,000 Places       Highlights of the trip
      the Indian Ocean, Madagascar’s      the central highlands to the humid         to Visit Before You Die by Patricia
                                                                                                                                      •	 7-day calm water rafting
      flora and fauna has evolved in      rainforests in the east, dry sandstone     Schultz, this is a world-class river
      such a unique way that 18th         cliffs in the west and bizarre karst                                                   •	 Andasibe Rainforest Reserve
                                                                                     and camping experience. With expert
      century French explorer Philippe    forests in the north.                                                                        •	 Kirindy Forest Reserve
                                                                                     naturalist guides to lead the way and
de Commerson described the island            To experience all of it in one trip,                                                      •	 Avenue of the Baobabs
                                                                                     an experienced cook to prepare meals
as "the naturalist's promised land”. He   Remote River Expeditions has specially
                                                                                     over an open fire, this expedition is an            •	 Scuba-diving in Ifaty
wrote, "Nature seems to have retreated    designed a program, Mangoky River,
                                                                                     excellent mix of adventure, culture and         •	 Hotel Stay in Morondava
there into a private sanctuary where      Rainforest & West, which brings you on
she could work on different models                                                   a touch of luxury in the wilderness.            •	 Expert English-speaking
                                          an action-packed adventure across the
from any she used elsewhere."                                                                                                                 naturalists/guides
                                          country.
  Although much has changed on               Float past the world’s largest baobab      Dates: May 23 - Jun 09, 2012                     •	 Maximum 10 people
Madagascar since the 18th century, it     forest, catch magnificent sunsets along                                               •	 Includes all river and camping
                                                                                        Duration: 18-Days
remains a true naturalist’s paradise.     the river banks, spot a wide myriad                                                                        equipment
No Amazon jungle can beat the             of lemurs, birds and bats and go on           Cost: $3,340 (exc. flights)                       •	 4WD transportation
diversity and uniqueness of species to    hikes and nocturnal walks - the               Single Supplement: $210
be found here. Besides outstanding        multi-activitiy itinerary of this 18-day                                                 For more details, check
                                                                                          13 & 15-Day Programs also available
wildlife, Madagascar also boasts          expedition will bring you through a                                                   Remote River Expeditions.
extreme biodiversity - featuring very     great variety of ecosystems.

30 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                                                                                                      www.wildjunket.com | 31
At Home in
                                          Kyrgyzstan
                                          This Central Asian country has dramatic mountain
                                          landscapes, pristine nature and outstanding
                                          trekking opportunities - but it’s the people who
                                          make it an experience you’ll never forget.




woRds and photos by NATASHA VON GELDERN
32 | WildJunket April/May 2012                                                  www.wildjunket.com | 33
nellie huang wild junket mag april may 2012
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nellie huang wild junket mag april may 2012

  • 1. April/May 2012 Travel Light, Travel Far 10 sert De ps! Wild Africa Remote jungles, canyons Tri um, adi R acama W At and bizarre stone forests ra, Saha more... and Sri Lanka Serendipity on the Isle of Serendib Tanzania Africa's Big Five in photos Mongolia Living it up in a yurt p60 Uruguay Colonial towns, dramatic beaches and gaucho culture our 10-page guide to the Pearl of South America + Kyrgyzstan | Leatherback Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda
  • 2. April/May 2012 Travel Light, Travel Far 10 ert Desps! Wild Africa Remote jungles, canyons Tri New Journey, New Life. i Rum , Wad Atacama and bizarre stone forests ra, Saha more... and Sri Lanka Since the launch of our magazine, we have received a tremendous amount of positive feedback from Serendipity on the Isle of Serendib readers and friends in the travel industry. Our first issue alone has received over two million views! Tanzania We cannot thank you enough for your support - without you, we wouldn’t be doing what we love Africa's Big Five in photos Mongolia most. Stick around, we’ve got plenty more to share in upcoming issues. Living it up in a yurt Uruguay Meanwhile, we’ve worked hard to compile this second issue while on the road. We’re now in the Colonial towns, dramatic beaches and gaucho culture our 10-page guide to the Pearl of South America Philippines, a month into our journey around Asia. Although traveling and working on the magazine + Kyrgyzstan | Leatherback Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda at the same time has been quite a challenge, we are loving this new location-independent lifestyle: our On the Cover African Sunset new office is a bamboo hut on the beach, with the lapping waves and gentle (Galyna Andrushko - fotolia) breeze as our background soundtrack. WildJunket Magazine is a You’ll be seeing alot more on Asia in the upcoming issues, but in this bi-monthly digital travel magazine edition, our focus is on Africa - with a cover feature from our recent trip to with a focus on outdoor adventures Madagascar (p20), a photo essay of wildlife in Tanzania (p60), a story on and sustainable travel. Our mission gorilla tracking in Uganda (p80) and dispatches from Gabon (p40). is to inspire readers to travel light and travel far. We’ve also giving away free subscriptions to Inca Rally participants as well as a one-week car rental to a lucky reader (details on p89). Creative Director Alberto Molero Editor-in-Chief Nellie Huang As always, we want to interact and socialize with you, our readers. If you have Contributing Editor Candace Rardon photos, comments or tips to share, get in touch - we’d love to hear from you! Gear Editor Lenore Greiner Editorial Intern Allison Carlton Nellie Huang GET IN TOUCH Editor-in-Chief & Publisher Contributors Enquiries contact@wildjunket.com Editorial editor@wildjunket.com Advertising sales@wildjunket.com Interested in contributing? Refer to our website for details. Web www.wildjunket.com WildJunket Ltd, 2012. Published by WildJunket Ltd, 163 Jalan Loyang Besar, Singapore 503413. All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any matter is strictly prohibited without the approval of the publishers. The views expressed in articles are those of the writers, and not necessarily of the publishers. Anya Oskolkova Peter West Carey Allison Carlton Born and raised in Russia, Anya Peter West Carey is a professional Our editorial intern, Allison Carlton is a Oskolkova took her first trip abroad at photographer currently leading photo professional journalist with a passion for the age of 7 and has been wandering tours to Bhutan, Nepal and India. adventure travel. She currently works as the world since. She shares her stories He also hosts photography workshops Assistant Editor at True West Magazine, on The Compulsive Traveler’s blog. in the USA. Read about him on the and blogs at the Traveling Bard. For In our Travel Guide section, she writes Carey Adventures. See his photo essay each issue, she writes the Calendar (p58) about Uruguay (p98). of wildlife in Tanzania on p60. and Trip Ideas (p16) pieces. Summer Special! Philippines Colombia For all your Madagascar travel arrangements. A small hands-on company based in Madagascar; 20+ Cook Islands years experience specializing in custom tailored itineraries for individuals, families and small groups. Turkey Unique alternatives to standard package tours with personalized service and excellent naturalist guides. Belize Georgia Sherry Ott Lenore Greiner Andrea Wren • Multi-Activity Programs • Avenue of the Baobabs • Filming & Research support Sherry Ott is a refugee from corporate Lenore Greiner is WildJunket’s in- Andrea Wren is an experienced • Extensive Island Tours • Tsiribihina, Manambolo & • Honeymoons Morocco IT who is now a traveler, blogger, and photographer.  She’s co-founder house travel gear editor (p114). She blogs at TravelGearForWomen, freelance journalist, travel writer and blogger based in the UK. She writes • Tsingy de Bemaraha Mangoky Rivers • Student GAP programs 10 Diving Trips of Meet, Plan, Go!, a national event offering career break inspiration. She helping women travel brilliantly. She also writes for Delta Airlines’ Sky, San for the Guardian, Wanderlust, and The Independent. Andrea blogs at also runs the travel blog Ottsworld. Francisco Chronicle, and Healing Butterflyist. In this issue, she brings us +(261) 2095 523 47 +(261) 3247 326 70 info@remoterivers.com www.remoterivers.com On sale 14 May 2012 See her photos of Sri Lanka on p48. Retreats and Spas. to Uganda (p80).
  • 3. From the Road Regulars Insider 32 | Under the Radar: Kyrgyzstan 06 | Snapshots Feast on impressive photos from our 58 | Calendar A look at festivals and events happening A country blessed with dramatic landscapes, untouched readers around the world. around the world this Apr/May. nature and some of the most hospitable people in the world. 16 | Trip Ideas Ten ideas for desert trips - from the Sahara 110 | Stay Jordan’s stylish hot spring resort reinvents the 40 | Dispatches: Gabon to the Namib Desert. Middle Eastern bath experience. Witness the rare phenomenon of leatherback turtles nesting 112 | Travel Rant How much do stereotypes speak the 114 | Gear We recommend a list of travel gear and on tthe West African coast. truth? Mike Sowden muses, and rants, about busting electronics perfect for hiking this spring. 72 | Just Back: Inner Mongolia prejudices. Live like nomads in China’s secret province, Inner Mongolia. 113 | Travel Thoughts Our columnist Candace Rardon WIN 90 | Feast: South Korea ponders about the concept of ‘authentic’ travel. We conquer an army of street foods in Seoul to hunt down 116 | Sketches Darbur Square, Kathmandu, in watercolors. ! the best - and the most exotic. aO ne-W Car ee See Rent k pag al e8 9 Inner Mongolia, China p72 80 Uganda Seoul, South Korea p90 Destination Features 18 | Madagascar Explore the remote jungles, canyons and bizarre stone forests of the Great Red Island. Kyrgyzstan p32 48 | Sri Lanka After decades of civil war, we head back to 98 Uruguay find renewed peace on the isle of Serendib. Tanzania p60 60 | Tanzania A photo essay of Africa’s Big Five on the 48 Sri Lanka savannahs of Serengeti. 80 | Uganda Head into the wilderness of Uganda and come face to face with the famous gorillas. 98 | Travel Guide: Uruguay Wander through the colonial towns, windwept beaches and Gaucho lands with our comprehensive travel guide on Uruguay. Madagascar 18
  • 4. Lemaire Channel, Antarctica “ Imagine being the only person for thousands of miles. No lights, no noise, no airplanes, no wifi. Just you, your travel mates and several thousand penguins. After sailing down the Antarctic Peninsula, heading into the Lemaire Channel, it became apparent just how small we are in this vast world. The Lemaire Channel is also known as “The Kodak Gap” because of the stunning mountains, glaciers, and bright blue icebergs surrounding the narrow passageway – it’s almost impossible to take a bad photo. What made this morning particularly special though was how crystal clear it was outside (the mountain tops are usually veiled in clouds). - Meghan Palmer Send us your photos and the stories behind them to editor@wildjunket.com 6 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 7
  • 5. Sacred Valley, Peru “ It was my first time in South America, and this visit to the Sacred Valley was one of the most defining moments of the trip. The Sacred Valley lies within the Andean mountain range, thousands of feet above sea level. It was easy to see just how skillful and disciplined the Incas were: agricultural terraces were etched so perfectly in the hills that they can still be used hundreds of years later. Buildings that were constructed with stones painstakingly dragged over long distances from neighbouring mountains, still stand, long after the hands that laid them had gone. - Alphis Tay 8 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 9
  • 6. Kalahari, South Africa “ Near South Africa’s northern border with Namibia is an amazing research center for meerkats. Literally dozens of clans of meerkats live here as part of an Earthwatch volunteer project. This is where the hit series Meerkat Manor was filmed; a soap opera documentary that followed the lives of a meerkat clan over the course of three seasons and two movies. I was fortunate enough to join an Earthwatch volunteer team last year and spend a few weeks with these charming little creatures. Needless to say, the overall docile nature of these animals gave me ample opportunity to take plenty of beautiful photographs. This is one of my favorites and shows three meerkats in a typically vigilant stance. Dale is a multi-award winning photographer based in South Africa. To see more of his pictures visit www.geckoeye.com - Dale Morris 10 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 11
  • 7. Grand Canyon, Arizona “ The moment I arrived at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona, I was immediately taken back by this stunning geological display. My fear of heights was quickly overcome by a sense of amazement as I found myself surrounded by billions of years of history, compressed into giant gorges. Just before the park guides gestured for me to step away from the edge of the canyon, I snapped this picture of the Colorado River below, still bewildered at the powerful wonderful of Mother Nature. - Tracy Zhang 12 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 13
  • 8. Negev Desert, Israel “ Israel  was one of the most surprising countries for me as a world traveler. Not only does the country offer unparalleled history and culture, it also features dramatic landscape, particularly attractive for desert-lovers like myself. In December 2007, on our way from Masada to the Red Sea (Eilat), we had the chance to drive through parts of the extensive Negev Desert. By sunset, we stopped at the north entrance of the Ramon Nature Reserve to visit the famous Makhtesh Ramon. Even though it looks like a meteor crater, it is actually a geological formation unique to the Negev desert. Unfortunately, we could only stay for an hour or so, but it was enough to fall in love with the view and its magnificent surrounding. Taking this picture was an easy task, I just had to click and nature did the rest!. - Mirella Matthiesen 14 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 15
  • 9. Trip Ideas 10 Desert Experiences 5 4WD Adventures in the Outback, Australia 7 Learn the history behind the desert, Egypt 1 Trek through the Valley of the Moon, Chile Get a balance of the desert and sea on this 6 Celebrate the Festival of the Desert, Mali Experience one of the most extraordinary Go back in time with the Nile Valley and For adventurists, the Atacama Desert four-day Monkey Mia, Kalbarri and Pinnacles annual music events with this Festival of the Western Desert tour offered by World 7 Day Trek offered by Cascada trip offered by Adventure Tours that takes Desert tour offered by Kumuka. The journey Expeditions. Visit the legendary Giza Expediciones offers the unique chance you from the coast to the desert of Western brings you through three countries: Ghana, Pyramids, along with the Roman hot springs to trek and explore the unworldly Australia. Go sand boarding in Nambung Burkina Faso and Mali. Explore West Af- and stop at ancient temples and tombs that landscapes of Atacama Desert. From rica's largest market, sail the Niger River and National Park, where you’ll wander through once belonged to the ancient pharaohs while sunsets to sunrises, you’ll get to see stay with the Tuareg people after a camel the mysterious Pinnacle Desert, before cruising the majestic Nile River to Cairo. the beauty of the desert while trekking ride through the Sahara. The tour’s main through impressive rock formations of abseiling down Murchison Gorge in Kalbarri highlight is the three-day Festival of the The highlight of the tour is the desert: get the Cordillera de la Sal, up the cacti- NP. Then trade the sand for surf at Shark Bay and Desert that includes art expos, camel rides lost amidst the bizarre limestone formations studded slopes of Licancabur Volcano, swim with the famous local dolphins of Monkey and games. Note: there is a current travel of White Desert, climb the rose-red cliffs in while visiting historical places like the Mia. This trip truly gives you a diverse experience warning against Northern Mali; check FCO Dakhla Oasis and marvel at the green island of Fortress of Quitor and indigenous along WA’s Coral Coast. for current safety advice. Kharga Oasis in the ocean of sand. villages. Tour operator: Adventure Tours Tour operator: Kumuka Tour operator: World Expeditions Tour operator: Cascada Departures: twice a week year-round Departures: January Departures: September 2012 to April 2013 Departures: year-round Duration: 4 days Duration: 20 days Duration: 14 days Duration: 7 days Cost: US$685 (exc. flights) Cost: US$4,290.00 (exc. flights) Cost: from US$2,290 Cost: from US$2,190 (exc. flights) 2 Wander through the world’s oldest desert, Namibia 4 Camp in yurts in Gobi’s Desert, Mongolia 8 Stargaze in the Sahara, Morocco 10 Live like a Bedouin, Jordan Wildlife and nature are the main attractions 3 Desert romance in the Thar, India On this TransIndus private tour, you'll have Dive deep into the heart of Mongolia on this The Moroccan Sahara Escape tour offered by 9 From the desert to the coast, Oman Undiscovered Destinations’ From the Desert The Lawrence of Arabia’s Adventures tour on this Dunes, Deltas and Falls tour offered the opportunity to truly develop a personal Discover the Gobi Desert trip with On The Go Specialist Morocco takes you on an exciting to the Coast tour is a short seven-day trip organized by Explore is an action-packed by G Adventures. This 21-day camping trip connection with the desert as you spend Tours. This one-of-a-kind tour allows you to journey on a 4x4 deep into the mystical packed full of local culture and history. Admire journey that’s excellent for families and starts from Livingstone, Zambia, bringing two weeks traversing through the Thar experience the Gobi Desert, the second largest the architecture in the capital city of Muscat adventurous couples. You’ll get to explore Sahara Desert.Visit the UNESCO World you through Botswana and Namibia to Cape desert in the world - through camel rides, train the legendary highlights of Jordan including in Rajasthan, India. The Desert Romance Heritage site Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou, before heading through the desert to meet the Town, South Africa. Not only will you see the journeys and history lessons. By incorporating the lost city of Petra, Kerak’s Crusader castle itinerary leads you on camel safaris through before heading into the desert on camelback green turtles in the sanctuary Ras al Hadd. Big Five from an overland truck, you'll get to visits to the Natural History Museum, Gandan and the Dead Sea. Follow the footsteps of the sand dunes of Osian, jeep tours around monastery and Migjid Janraisag temple, you'll Drive through the red and white dunes of paddle through the Okavango Delta, wonder and sleeping under the stars by night. You’ll Lawrence of Arabia, camping under the Rawla Narlai, boat rides on the Chambai have a well-rounded tour of the Gobi in just Wahiba Sands before visiting the 17th century at the magnitude of Victoria Falls, and most also head up to the Atlas mountains to stars in the Wadi Rum desert and learning River as well as visits to desert towns, Jain eight days. Highlights of the trip include Jabrin Castle and the Jebel Akdhar fort. The importantly, catch sunrise on the rose-red hike in the Toubkal National Park before about traditional life from local Bedouins. temples and havelis - all these in the comfort yurt camping, visits to the flaming cliffs of trip culminates with a hike in Jebel Shams, the sand dunes and visit the eerie Dead Vlei in the spending a night in a Berber village. Finally cool off from the heat in the clear of heritage hotels and historical mansions. Bayanzag and climbing the dunes of Moltsog ‘Grand Canyon of Oman’. world’s oldest desert. blue waters and coral reefs of the Red Sea. Tour operator: Transindus Els. Tour operator: Specialist Morocco Tour operator: G Adventures Tour operator: Undiscovered Destinations Tour operator: Explore Departures: mid-October to mid-March Tour operator: On The Go Tours Departures: from September to June Departures: year-round Departures: March and October Departures: monthly year-round Duration: 16 days Departures: year-round Duration: 5 days Duration: 21 days Duration: 7 days Duration: 9 days Duration: 8 days Cost: from US$639 (exc. flights) Cost: from US$5,550 (inc. flights from UK) Cost: US$1,780 (exc. flights) Cost: US$1,180 (exc. flights) Cost: from US$2,199 (exc. flights) Cost: from US$$5,468 (exc. flights) 16 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 17
  • 10. The Lost Island From endemic wildlife to bizarre stone forests and unexplored beaches, remote Madagascar may just be one of Africa’s last great unknowns. Words Nellie Huang | Photographs Alberto Molero 18 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 19
  • 11. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR I t was a tail. A very long, white jungle – and also the main draw for the of lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of and bushy tail. It swung back and few intrepid travelers who make their endemic plants, including the bizarre forth in our direction, combing way to this remote isle each year. spiny ocotillo tree and the bottle- the breeze for our presence as we Most people come to Madagascar shaped baobab. slowly approached. Bending our to get a first-hand look at its unique Slightly bigger than California, backs and straining our eyes against wildlife, with the lemur as the headline Madagascar is the fourth largest island the sunlight, we watched as the ape- act. But as my photographer husband in the world. Stretching out over like animal leapt from tree to tree and I traversed through Madagascar 3,100 miles (5,000 km) of untouched towards us. 30 feet, 15 feet, five feet. – from lemur-stalked Kirindy to the coastline, it features extremely diverse It was in full view now – all of its stone pinnacles Tsingy de Bemaraha, terrains and habitats: from the white furry body, long monkey limbs, and then on to the laid back beach dramatic mountains of the north to webbed feet and olive green eyes. Just town of Morondava – it was quickly pristine spearmint-blue beaches in the inches before us the creature curiously apparent there’s far more to see in this south; from green humid rainforests in sniffed us out, with not the least bit of largely unexplored part of Africa. the east to the spiny forests of the west. apprehension. Sadly, Madagascar’s age of innocence A lemur. To be precise, a Verreaux’s Biodiversity Hotspot might be short-lived. With problems sifaka, which is also known as Marooned in the vast Indian Ocean, like civil unrest, corruption and over- a dancing lemur for its comical la Grand Île is home to an uncommon exploitation of resources plaguing locomotion on the ground. This group of animals and plants found the country, the United Nations primate is one of the most popular nowhere else in the world. Most of Environment Programme (UNEP) has lemurs and definitely the weirdest. these have evolved after the island’s declared Madagascar’s ecosystem one Wild Spirit: Just 15 minutes into the Kirindy separation from the African continent of the most threatened in the world. A furry white Verraux Forest Reserve and we’d seen our 165 million years ago. Only in Lemurs are facing extinction as some Sifaka scrambles up a tree first lemur. Here on the island of Madagascar can you find the world’s tribes in Madagascar continue to hunt Opposite: The terrain in Madagascar, lemurs are the stars of the biggest chameleons, over 70 species them for bush meat while patches of Southern Madagascar 20 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 21
  • 12. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR DESTINATION MADAGASCAR Tsingy de Bemaraha: Our local park ranger crossing the bridge that spans across the rock pinnacles. less-trodden path. bathing themselves in the brackish national park is protected by ANGAP, “Resembling scenes out of a sci-fi movie, the stone At the end of the tormenting ride we arrived at the Tsiribihina River, a water, women dressed in colorful lambas crossing the river on their which had a series of wire railings put in place by a team of climbers and forest features jagged limestone pinnacles and major waterway that winds westwards through Madagascar, flowing over a pirogues (dugout canoes). By the time we got to the Bemaraha Mountains, researchers. Guided by a local park ranger, we needle-sharp peaks, some reaching up to 600 feet.” distance of 91 miles (146 km) into the Mozambique Channel. We waited for the last ebb of the sun had faded in the distance, and wispy clouds hung low clambered up the steel tracks and scrambled from one razor-sharp peak our turn to hop on the car ferry by the above our heads. We were moving at a to another, balancing our way in a less- crowded river banks. slow pace in Madagascar, but for once, than-fancy fashion. It’s no wonder the wild forests on the island are slowly Now that the island is slowly and rum-colored rivers. Villages and “Mora mora,” advised our guide we didn’t mind. Malagasies had aptly named the stone disappearing due to illegal logging. regaining political stability, there is no people were few and far between. As Heri. Slowly, slowly. “In Madagascar, forest tsingy, meaning ‘tip-toe’. On the bright side, all is not lost – better time to return to the Great Red tarmac gave way to bare earth, it was things move slowly. You never know Spiky Peaks The trail brought us up steep several wildlife conservation groups Island. obvious we were seeping deeper into how long we need to wait. It can be The journey was well worth it: our limestone faces, through narrow such as World Wide Fund for Nature rural Africa. an hour or a whole day. So be patient, destination, the Tsingy de Bemaraha, winding canyons and sliding down (WWF) are working with Madagascar’s The Wild West Getting to Bemaraha was an just smile and wait.” Our stout, fit was nothing quite like anything I’d slick curves. As I scaled higher towards ANGAP (National Association for the The next morning at the crack of experience of its own. We plunged and and knowledgable guide always had seen. Resembling scenes out of a sci-fi the highest point of the tsingy, I looked Management of Protected Areas) to dawn, we made our way to the remote lurched for 60 miles (100 km) over wise words to share – he gave us a movie, the stone forest features jagged down and my head swirled in 360 promote awareness and implement region of the Bemaraha Mountains. four hours on a treacherously bumpy deep glimpse into Madagascar and its limestone pinnacles and needle-sharp degrees. Luckily for the safety harness measures. Locals are gradually coming They don’t call this the ‘wild west’ for trail flanked by thick, dense foliage. culture. peaks, some reaching up to 600 feet and the guide’s encouragement, I to grips with the reality that their nothing. With few roads connecting Overland travel in Madagascar can be We spent the afternoon watching (200 meters) in height - a result of made it up to the peak, giddy with wealth is in their wildlife and natural here to the rest of the country, this brutal, especially on this part of the villagers go about their daily lives millions of years of rainwater lashes excitement. environment. Tourism is an integral hard-to-reach region is pockmarked island - but somehow the remoteness - men leading theirs herds of zebus and trickling of streams. Now a Below us was a blinding jumble - part to rebuilding the country. with robust baobab trees, red earth and inaccessibility made this feel like a (ox) along the marshy banks, children UNESCO World Heritage Site, the the chiseled karst stones poked out 22 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 23
  • 13. Sunrise at Manambolo: Locals “Only in Madagascar can you find the world’s biggest chameleons, over glide by on a pirogue. Bottom (left to right): Thousand- 70 species of lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of endemic plants.” year-old trees along the Avenue du Baobab; Scrambling down the jagged pinnacles of the tsingy. into the skies, vying for sunlight with vertiginous cliffs of limestone topped the tsingy lay vast, sandy plains pachypodium cacti; lemurs leapt from with karst rock pinnacles and trees. All punctuated with tall bottle-shaped one pointed needle to another; while was still except for the dancing light baobab trees whose branches soared the orange-brown Manambolo River on the water – and an odd wheezing sky-high, resembling roots in the air. snaked through lush emerald forests sound among the overhanging foliage. Heri insisted we catch the sunset along in the distance. It was a vision of a It could have been a snake or a lemur, Avenue du Baobab, the island’s most primeval paradise. Most of all, we had but we glided into safety before the famous road lined with hundred-year- it all to ourselves. creature revealed itself. old baobabs. I, on the other hand, was At 5.30a.m. the next day, we arrived By the time we weaved our way unsure if I wanted to share the rare at the riverbank to see bats flitting midway into the gorge, the sun had solitude I’d found in Madagascar with about in the pre-dawn haze. The river fired up the canyon, splashing its other tourists. would give us a different perspective of rays beyond the canopy of pinnacles. But as soon as we stood in the the tsingy, Heri said. Why at this hour, I smiled at Heri, thankful for this shadow of the serendipitously aligned I protested. “You’ll soon find out.” spectacular sight - rising early sure was row of baobabs, I fell silent in awe. We hopped onto our pirogue, worth it. Heri was right again – this was a water taxi of some sort in the something. Even in the light of day, the Tsiribihina region. As we glided Baobab Nation dirt road had an ethereal atmosphere silently into the Manambolo Gorge, Back out on the muddy road, it was to it, especially so with the trees’ the sandy riverbanks gave way to tall a different world again. Beyond silhouettes reflected in the water lily 1 5 Other wildlife watching spots Réserve Spéciale de L’ankàrana Located in northern Madagascar, this 45,109 acre (18,225 hectare) reserve is a patchwork of ruby-red tsingy, semi-dry forests, caves and subterranean rivers. It’s an excellent place to spot nocturnal sportive lemurs – don’t be surprised to find them popping their heads out of holes in the forest. 2 Parc National d’Andasibe-Mantadia This high-altitude rainforest on the island’s east coast is the best place to see the Indri, the largest lemur species. You’ll 4 Parc Nacional de Ranomafana As one of Madagascar’s most popular parks, Ranomafana is most famous for its green, luscious also find eight other species of lemur including the rare grey environment. In the 98,842 acre (40,000 hectare) misty cloud bamboo lemur, as well as Parson’s chameleons, Madagascar forest, you’ll have the chance to see two rare lemur species blue pigeons and long-eared owls. Listen out for the weird – the golden bamboo lemur and the greater bamboo lemur - howling of the Indri in the early morning. who make their home amidst waterfalls and rolling hills. 3 La Réserve Privée d’Anjajavy Accessible only by air on the remote northwestern coast, Anjajavy promises the most prolific collection of 5 Anja Reserve Anja Reserve is the most visited community managed forest and is famed for its dense population of ring-tailed wildlife from chameleons to the Coquerel’s sifaka and the lemurs. Situated 8 miles (13 km) south of Ambalavao, the elusive Fossa. Cut off from the rest of the isle, this reserve is reserve is easily accessible via the National Route 7. The truly untouched and well worth the journey. reserve entrance fees go to the local Malagasy community. 24 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 25
  • 14. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR DESTINATION MADAGASCAR When asked why Madagascar of all places, he pointed out to the view Explore Offbeat Village Life - Manafiafy Southern Madagascar is sprinkled with ahead of us and said, “Look at this, how can you not fall in love?” secluded offshore islets and steeped in Madagascar tribal traditions. Go whale watching, deep sea fishing or visit a castaway ponds beneath and locals trotting past on their zebu carts. melodious series of “Tonga Soa”. Welcome. We threw off our backpacks, Baholy. When asked why Madagascar of all places, he pointed out to the view Sandstone Canyons of Isalo island and wander through local At sunset, the dramatic scene took left our hiking boots behind and ahead of us and said, “Look at this, Without the ring-tailed lemurs you’d villages. There’s also a whole world of on even more theatrical dimensions: headed straight for the waves. how can you not fall in love?” never guess this is Madagascar. The forest reserves and mangroves excellent as the giant orange yolk sank over the Overlooking the Mozambique Over the next few days we kicked brown sandstone gorges of Isalo National for nocturnal lemur and bird-watching. canopy of baobabs, the color of the sky Channel, Morondava bakes in a strong back and enjoyed a different side to Park resemble those of the Grand Canyon Experience all of it at the exclusive shimmered and dazzled - changing Caribbean light and its people groove Madagascar. A sunset pirogue ride and they promise superb hiking with a Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest to a similar tune. Its wide sandy beach in the nearby mangroves yielded from bright vermillion to gentle range of trails that vary in difficulty. Two Lodge where you can explore the runs for miles alongside a strip of impressive bird watching opportunities area with a naturalist, relax in your mandarin, and eventually a shade of boutique lodges near Ranohira provide clapboard houses and beach bars. from the blue-throated kingfishers to first-world comforts and cuisine: Relais Baobab Galore in Ifaty luxurious thatched bungalow and enjoy gold. The fascinating transformation Just 164 miles (265 km) from Isalo is from day to night took place in a sheer On the dark blue waters, fishermen egrets and herons; we made friends de la Reine and Jardin du Roy. Both a true Robinson Crusoe experience. the beach town of Ifaty, famed for its cast nets against the backdrop of with local fishermen on the nearby isle boast European lodge décor and a lavish (Prices start from US$318 per person matter of minutes – and yet, it stayed baobab reserves more than the beach. per night). coconut palms swaying their fronds of Betania and watched them catch teak wood setting. (Room rates from deeply imprinted in my memories. US$105 per night) The coast is excellent for snorkeling like Rastafari dreads. By the white giant tilapias; and on a chirpy Saturday, and diving, especially for sharks. But shoreline, local women sashay in their we wandered through the colorful the nearby Renialia Nature Reserve Beach Bumming colorful lambas with buckets of fresh local market and chatted with friendly is the main attraction - with its Through the dusty dirt roads of the fish on their heads. locals. 1,200-year-old baobabs, bizarre spiny west, we reached the breezy winds It’s a view that many would kill to It was beautiful, but like everywhere forests and resident spiders, scorpions and laid back vibes of Morondava. have as their daily backdrop, and Gary else in Madagascar, it was the solitude and hedgehogs. To kick back, the lavish After days of hiking, kayaking and waterfront bungalows at Le Paradisier Lemmer is one of the lucky few to call that struck me most. While the forest-trekking, we felt in need of this home. Having lived and worked in improved political situation might see promise tranquility, comfort and an atmospheric backdrop. (Room rates some relaxation and found it at the several parts of Africa, Gary decided an increase in travelers, until then, this from US$86 per night). beachside lodge, Chez Maggie. to settle in Madagascar and now runs wildly remote island remains hidden Upon arrival, we were met by a Chez Maggie with his Malagasy wife, and lost in its own world. 1 26 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 27
  • 15. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR (3-hour journey; return airfares from TRIP DETAILS US$900). The total journey times are The author traveled with Remote River around 20 hours from North America and Expeditions – Madagascar on a tailor- total return airfare starts from US$2,000. made trip. The six-day trip departs and ends in Morondava. Three to six-day custom programs are available from + Getting around Domestic flights on Air bungalows and a luxurious swimming Madagascar are the most feasible way of May to November. Prices start from pool overlooking the stone forest. Room exploring the island, as they’re fast and US$420 per person, with breakfasts, rates start from 35,000 MGA (US$16) for relativelycheap as compared to renting a dinners, transportation (on a 4x4), a single room to 60,000 MGA for doubles car or booking a tour. They range from accommodations, park entry fees and (US$28). US$250 to $350 each way. Public transport an English-speaking naturalist guide Madagascar’s Wildlife: (Clockwise from top left) is neither efficient nor comfortable. Chez Maggie stands out for its cozy, included. International airfare, lunches However, if you’re on a budget and have homely setting and beachfront location and drinks are at your own expense. time to spare, the taxi-brousse can be an – with private bungalows, spacious two- Gentle Spikes: A baby hedgehog curled interesting way to explore the island from up in Renialia Nature Reserve. Curious Eyes: A red-fronted lemur ú When to go October and November is the best a local perspective. story chalets, a swimming pool and the best restaurant in town. Room rates start from 88,000 MGA (US$41). observes us from a tree. time to visit as temperatures are mild and Since certain parts are very remote and roads are still accessible. Avoid the rainy desolate, the only way to get around Dancing Lemur: A Verraux Sifaka hangs from a branch. Birds of Paradise: The Paradise season (January to March) as there is a high risk of cyclones and some roads can sometimes after flying there is to rent a car. In Madagascar, car rental usually Ö Cost of travel The currency used in Madagascar be inaccessible due to the rain. In general, comes with a driver – hiring without is the Malagasy ariary (MGA). Currently Flycatcher adds color to Kirindy Forest. there is an extreme temperature difference one tends to be more expensive. Car hire the exchange rate is at US$1 to 2,163 Colored Creatures: A Warty Chameleon between the hauts plateaux (central prices vary according to the duration of MGA. Prices are cheap in Madagascar camouflages on a light brown branch. highlands) and the coast. Summer sees rental and the type of vehicle but generally but tours, private transportation and Carnivore Alert: The ferocious fossa, temperatures rising to a sweltering 104°F ( range from US$60 for a small car to US$80 hotel prices can be costly like in other Madagascar’s only predator. 40°C) along the coast while Antananarivo for a 4x4. parts of Africa. Hotel room rates are and the highlands can get as low as very affordable in most parts of the Cobalt Sweetness: A beautiful Malachite Kingfisher in Morondava’s mangroves. Locust Pocus: Multi-colored locust in 46°F (8°C) come winter (December to February). W Accommodation Due to the remoteness of certain country, ranging from US$18 to US$100. Restaurant prices will also suit most budgets, from a simple local dish for 4,300 parts of Madagascar, there are few Isalo. If you’re planning to travel in the central accommodation choices except in the MGA (US$2) to a European meal costing highlands, be sure to bring warm clothes around 17,000 MGA (US$8). capital. Options in the island’s more regardless of the season as temperatures far-flung corners can range from basic are around 59°F (15°C) even in the summer. The coastal areas are generally hot year round, although it can be nippy at wooden huts to high-end luxury resorts. Sakamanga Hotel, located in the heart of V PackingWeather can be extreme regardless of the time of year so bring clothing to fit night in the winter. Antananarivo’s old town, features colorful, all seasons. In winter, you’ll need a fleece eclectic rooms of varying size and price. and a thick winter coat, especially if you ! Getting there A lack of direct flights to Room rates start from 52,000 MGA (US$24). plan to travel in the central highlands. In summer, bring a few layers such Antananarivo makes it tricky to find singlets, long-sleeved shirts and a light Kirindy Reserve Bungalows is the only cheap airfare, especially from the US. The jacket for the cool nights. Take sunglasses accommodation available in the forest best way to reach Antananarivo involves and sunscreen, especially in summer. reserve. Although the wooden huts are flying to either Paris or to Johannesburg Binoculars are essential. basic with few facilities, they give you the and taking a connecting flight on to Ivato real experience of ‘sleeping in a forest’. International Airport. Air Madagascar and Air France fly three to four times weekly from Paris to Antananarivo (13-hour Room rates start from 37,000 MGA (US$17).   M Websites Here are some helpful links journey; return airfares from US$1,300). L’Olympe du Bemaraha is one of the Madagascar National Tourism Board Air Madagascar also flies twice weekly most upscale hotels near the Tsingy Parcs Madagascar from Johannesburg to Antananarivo de Bemaraha with lavish teak wood Lonely Planet Madagascar 28 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 29
  • 16. Advertorial Ultimate Madagascar: A River Expedition Along the Mangoky Rivers, rainforests and highlands: explore the island of contrasts with Remote River Expeditions Photos by Norman King I solated for millions of years in contrasting terrains and habitats: from Featured in the book 1,000 Places Highlights of the trip the Indian Ocean, Madagascar’s the central highlands to the humid to Visit Before You Die by Patricia • 7-day calm water rafting flora and fauna has evolved in rainforests in the east, dry sandstone Schultz, this is a world-class river such a unique way that 18th cliffs in the west and bizarre karst • Andasibe Rainforest Reserve and camping experience. With expert century French explorer Philippe forests in the north. • Kirindy Forest Reserve naturalist guides to lead the way and de Commerson described the island To experience all of it in one trip, • Avenue of the Baobabs an experienced cook to prepare meals as "the naturalist's promised land”. He Remote River Expeditions has specially over an open fire, this expedition is an • Scuba-diving in Ifaty wrote, "Nature seems to have retreated designed a program, Mangoky River, excellent mix of adventure, culture and • Hotel Stay in Morondava there into a private sanctuary where Rainforest & West, which brings you on she could work on different models a touch of luxury in the wilderness. • Expert English-speaking an action-packed adventure across the from any she used elsewhere." naturalists/guides country. Although much has changed on Float past the world’s largest baobab Dates: May 23 - Jun 09, 2012 • Maximum 10 people Madagascar since the 18th century, it forest, catch magnificent sunsets along • Includes all river and camping Duration: 18-Days remains a true naturalist’s paradise. the river banks, spot a wide myriad equipment No Amazon jungle can beat the of lemurs, birds and bats and go on Cost: $3,340 (exc. flights) • 4WD transportation diversity and uniqueness of species to hikes and nocturnal walks - the Single Supplement: $210 be found here. Besides outstanding multi-activitiy itinerary of this 18-day For more details, check 13 & 15-Day Programs also available wildlife, Madagascar also boasts expedition will bring you through a Remote River Expeditions. extreme biodiversity - featuring very great variety of ecosystems. 30 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 31
  • 17. At Home in Kyrgyzstan This Central Asian country has dramatic mountain landscapes, pristine nature and outstanding trekking opportunities - but it’s the people who make it an experience you’ll never forget. woRds and photos by NATASHA VON GELDERN 32 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 33