2. 2
INTRODUCTION
By achieving practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical
knowledge in the technical field. For any technical education, practical
experience is almost equally necessary in association with the theoretical
knowledge. The industrial attachment is the most effective process of achieving
the practical experience. It provides us sufficient practical knowledge about
production management, productivity, evaluation, work study, efficiency,
industrial management, production planning & control, production cost analysis,
inventory control, purchasing, utilities and Maintenance of machinery and their
operation technique etc.
Industrial attachment is an essential part of four years B.Sc. in Textile
technology course of College Of Textile Technology under University of Dhaka.
We had the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment with NORTHERN
FASHION LTD. During 42 days long attachment, we studied the man, machine,
material aspects of the circular knitting section, quality control section, planning
section, grey fabric inspection, finished fabric inspection, dyeing & finishing
section, merchandising section of the mill. We also had a short visit in the
garments section of the factory. We also took a study tour in Padma
knitting,Viellatex & Opex Group with my supervising officer of the mill.
According to our studies there we have prepared the following report and would
like to present.
3. 3
TABLE OF CONTENT
CHAPTER CONTENTS PAGE
NO
CHAPTER-I PROJECT DESCRIPTION 1-4
CHAPTER-II MANPOWER MANAGEMENT 5-10
CHAPTER-III MACHINE DESCRIPTION 11-20
CHAPTER-IV RAW MATERIALS 21-22
CHAPTER-V PRODUCTION PLANNING,
SEQUENCES & OPERATIONS
23-27
CHAPTER-VI QUALITY ASSURANCE
SYSTEM
28-31
CHAPTER-VII MAINTENANCE 32-39
CHAPTER-VIII UTILITY SERVICES 40-43
CHAPTER-IX STORE & INVENTORY
CONTROL
44-45
CHAPTER-X COST ANALYSIS 46-49
CHAPTER-XI MARKETTING ACTIVITIES 50-66
CHAPTER-XII CONCLUSION 67-68
5. 5
Name:
NORTHERN FASHION LTD
Type:
Composite knit fabrics and garments (with dyeing & finishing) mill
(100% Export Oriented Composite Industry)
Status:
Private limited company
Year of establishment: 2006
Location:EPZ, Kaliakoir Road, Kashimpur,Gazipur,which is about 35 (35Km)
minute from Dhaka International Airport.
Satrasta
Address:
a. Corporate office:
Plot no: 91(3rd
floor)
Road: Suhrawardy Avenue
Block: K
Baridhara,Dhaka-1212.
Bangladesh.
Tel: 9882516
9882517
9882607
Fax:880-2-9882610
Email: info@northernbd.com
www.northerngroup.com.bd
b. FACTORY:
Plot # 16-18
Dakhin Panishail,EPZ,Kaliakoir road,Kashimpur,Gazipur,(P.O. Box# 1349 BKSP)
Northern
Fashion ltd
BKSP
EPZ
SEU
Air port
6. 6
Tel#7788383-5, Fax: 8802-7701922
SPONSORSHIP: Eastern Bank Ltd.
PRODUCT MIX:
a) Knitted grey fabrics: Plain single jersey, Auto stripper, Heavy jersey, polo pique,
Lacoste, Rib &Interlock double jersey, Drop needle, Automan & 2threaded fleece
100% cotton, 15% viscose+ 85% cotton, 10% viscose+ 90% cotton, 30%
viscose+ 70% cotton
b) Knit garments:
T-shirt, polo shirt, Short / trouser, Knitted pant, Vests
DAILY PRODUCTION CAPACITY:
Knitting: 4 tons
Dyeing: 8 tons
Garments:20000 pc
PROJECT COST:
US$4000,000per year (approx) in 2007
US$11000,000 Projection for 2008.
HISTORY OF PROJECT DEVELOPMENT:
Starting with 6 knitting machines only in 2006 and dyeing capacity was only 6
tons per day. Garments section named NORTHERN FASHION had only two
floors with 6 lines.
DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS:
1. Marketing and Merchandizing
2. Knitting: circular knitting
3. Dyeing & Finishing
4. Lab department
5. Quality Assurance
7. 7
6. Garments:
Cutting
Sewing
Finishing
Inspection
Packing
7. Stores
8. Technical Department (Maintenance)
9. Human & Resource and Administration
10. Account and commercial section
11. Batching section
TOTAL AREA OF THE INDUSTRY: 170000 sq. feet & 6stored building.
9. 9
ORGANOGRAM MANPOWER: (Sewing section)
Managing Director
Executive Director
General Manager
Deputy General Manager
Asst. General Manager
Merchandising Manager
Sinior Merchandiser
Merchandiser
Production Manager
Sample incharge Cutting incharge Sewing incharge
Quality inchare
Cutting executive Line supervisor
Operator Operator
Cutting supervisor Operator
Helper Helper
Marker man Helper
Cutterman
10. 10
ORGANOGRAM MANPOWER: (Dyeing)
Managing Director
Executive Director
General Manager
Deputy General Manager
Asst. General Manager
Production Manager
Asst. Production manager
Sinior production Officer
production Officer
Supervisor
Operator
Helper
ORGANOGRAM MANPOWER: (Knitting)
Managing Director
Executive Director
Manager (knitting)
Knitting master
Supervisor
Asst. supervisor
11. 11
Fitter
Operator
Helper
MANAGEMENT SYSTEM:
GARMENTS SECTION: 8 hours per day.8 AM-5 PM. Overtime: 2hours.
Offday: Friday in a week.
RESPONSIBILITIES OF PRODUCTION MANAGER:
RESPONSIBILITIES OF SAMPLE ROOM INCHARGE:
To make pattrn from specification sheet.
When there is no measurement chart then he make specification chart by
his own idea, then send to buyer,if it is ok then he make pattern.
After making sample he check the sample if it is ok , then he order to
make 4 pcs of the sample.
RESPONSIBILITIES OF CUTTING INCHARGE:
Check the relaxation of fabric,order wise quantity measure, patterncutting
with signature,befor sewing to communicate the print embroidery.
To ensure equal input & output.
To check fabric shrinkage, twisting repair.
To make the cutting plan according to operation breakdown.
To give target and style devide in every table.
RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY INCHARGE:
To control the overall quality of the garments.
To brief the incharge about tentative problem of quality.
To make size set of the garments.
To check the measurement of the garments, if required increase or
decrease
KNITTING SECTION: Two mechanical fitters for per shift. One skilled
operator and two unskilled operators for two knitting machine.
SHIFT CHANGE: Shift of eight hours. Shift changes after a week on Saturday.
RESPONSEBILITIES OF PRODUCTION OFFICER: From getting an
order of upper level all responsibilities are on the production officers. They
12. 12
work with a troop of operators, helpers, fitters etc. to finish the production in
due time. In the meantime
Production officers bear all hazards, problems. They have to explain to the
manager for any type of production hamper. So all production activities and its
success depend on the production office.
DYEING SECTION:
SHIFT CHANGE: Shift of twelve hour.Shift changes afte a week on Saturday.
RESPONSEBILITIES OF PRODUCTION OFFICER: From getting an
order of upper level all responsibilities are on the production officers. They
work with a troop of operators, helpers, fitters etc. to finish the production in
due time. In the meantime
Production officers bear all hazards, problems. They have to explain to the
manager for any type of production hamper. So all production activities and its
success depend on the production office.
JOB DESCRIPTION:
SENIOR PRODUCTION OFFICER:
In a knitting factory a senior production officer plays a great role in
production and manpower management. Here we enlist the duties of senior
production officers:
1. Follow up knitting production
2. regular observation of the knitting floor.
3. Prepare knitting orders regularly
4. Maintain the quality of the product
PRODUCTION OFFICER:
Production officer is the right hand of senior production officer and he is
directly related with production, manpower & informs senior production
officer time to time. Here are his listed duties:
Follow up overall knitting production
Decide every machine utilization during production
Recruit new labor
To inform the authority on the overall knitting production and make it financially
profitable
Regular machine Maintenance
13. 13
Maintains subcontract orders
Help knitting manager and also guide the junior officers of the section
REMARKS:
Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical
fault of any machine they fix and work under knitting manager. Production
officer takes account of daily production by running after the two supervisors
& workers so on.
15. 15
MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
NORTHERN FASHION LIMITED (GARMENTS SECTION)
Name Origin Brand Model Mfg no
Plain m/c Japan Juki DDL-900SS 2DOZKO4865
Plain m/c japan Juki LH3568S 3L3AL00132
Flatlock m/c China Juki MF7723 8M4AC11435
Flat lock m/c China Pegasus W1500N
SERIES
W1562N-02G
Over lock m/c China Juki MO6714D BE6-44H
Button
attaching m/c
China Juki N9-47 3874
Piping cutting
m/c
China Idea SM-601 3658
Line: 30
No of machine:780
Plain m/c: 264
Over lock m/c: 234
Flat lock M/c: 102
Button hole m/c: 60
Button attaching m/c: 60
Piping cutting m/c: 60
Line Balancing of the sequence of the line MODHUMOTI :
19. 19
Lay out plan of 2nd
Floor(Knitting section)
Lay out plan of 3rd
Floor(Knitting section)
Office1
Office1
20. 20
# List of machinery:
Single jersey: 8Nos
Rib: 2Nos
Interlock: 4 Nos
CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Circular knitting m/cs are widely used through out the knitting industry to produce
fabric. This m/c can be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the small diameter of up
to five, which are used for wear.
Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter
according to manufactures requirement. This m/c can be used either as fabric or for making
garments completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed in all modern
circular m/c because of their simple action and also their ability to process more types of
yarns.
Plain circular m/c uses only one sets of needles, circular rib m/c uses two sets of
needles i, e, Cylinder needle and Dial needle, the interlock circular knitting m/c also uses two
sets of needles by needles are long and short respectively for both dial and cylinder, that is
why multiple design and thick fabric can be produce with that m/c. That m/c is also called
double Jersey m/c.
M/c. Gauge – needle/inch (varies according to diameter)
Needle Type – Latch
Needle bed type – Single cylinder, Double cylinder, Cylinder &
Dial, long or short needles for cylinder and dial.
Two principle operation exist:
1. English system – Where the cams and yarns strands revolve by needle and
fabric take down is stationary.
2 American system – Where the needles and fabric take down revolves by
cams and yarn strands are stationary.
IMOPORTANT EQUIPMENT OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C
1. START/STOP/INCH BUTTONS:
Complete set of easily accessible start/stop/inch buttons at top in each leg.
2. RATCHET LEVER:
Permit hand movement of the M/C.
3. AUTO STOP MOTION:
21. 21
Automatic three stages 24v yarn motion, positive feed tapes & knitting zone. Indicator lamps
are on individual stop motions & on the main control panel. While the yarn is broken we can
find the location which is broken as well as to repair, meanwhile the motor can brake and stop
operation at once to keep the security of M/C.
4. FREE STANDING SIDE CREEL:
An active reserve package per feed
5.AUTO–COUNTER:
Two-shift revolution with display counter with predetermined stop, to settle freely the
weight or yardage of fabric.
6. VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE WITH M/C BRAKE:
Transistor inverter provided for free controlled, the process of “V.s. motor-drive” from
slow operation to normal operation is quite & fast brake to prevent damages in case of needles
or yarn breakage.
7. FABRIC TAKE UP SYSTEM:
With variable speed control by a belt drive set can be adjusted the speed for
different course of fabric-constant and uniform fabric tension.
8. SAFETY GUARD SWITCH:
Machine cannot be started with guards open; these guards have reinforced
fibreglass window for easy fabric inspection.
9. AUTO LUBRICATION:
The automatic central pressurized oil sprayer can be adjusted at cycling time
and quantity to make cylinder, dial, sinker ring’s cam, needles and sinkers
lubricated enough, besides it has the function cooling and clearing.
10. AUTO-LINE REMOVAL SYSTEMS:
Three fans on each rotating arm for clearing off any dust of creel and knitting.
27. 27
PRODUCTION PARAMETERS:
Machine Diameter;
Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
No Of feeds or feeders in use;
Machine Gauge;
Count of yarn;
Required time (M/C running time);
Machine running efficiency.
DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PROCESS(KNITTING SECTION):
In every mill, there maintains a sequence in production processing.
It is also followed in this mill where I was in industrial attachment. The process
sequences are in list below:
1) Firstly, knitting manager gets a production sheet from merchandisers as
accordance as consumer requirements. Then he informs or orders senior production
officer about it.
2) Senior production officer informs technical in charge and knows about
m/c in which the production will be running.
3) Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two
take decision about m/c for production considering m/c condition, production
capacity, maintenance complexity etc.
4) Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required
stitch length and grey GSM (gram per square meter) for required final GSM.
5) Supervisor check daily production regularity and make operators
conscious about finishing in due time.
6) Operators operate machine in highly attention as if there were no faults
in the fabrics. If he is sure about any fabric fault, then he call for mechanical fitter in
duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in-charge. He
then comes in spot.
7) After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they are
sent in dyeing section
PRODUCTION FLOW-CHART:
Executive director takes order from Buyer
|
Merchandiser estimates total amount of yarn of production
|
Knitting manager gets production order sheet
|
Senior Production Officer ordered by K.M. and orders
Production officer and Technical in-charge.
|
28. 28
Production officer fixes up stitch length and GSM
With mechanical fitter.
|
Definite operator operates machine in his full conscious and
Attention.
|
Mechanical fitter fixes machine if there is any m/c fault.
|
Supervisors keep daily production report and assure m/c is OK.
|
Fabric roll is checked by a troop of inspectors in inspection unit
and weighted.
|
Final product to the required amount is delivered to dyeing unit.
MONTHLY EFFICIENCY:
Daily production: 9,000kgs. Approx.
Daily production capacity: 10,000 kgs approx.
So, monthly production: 9,000*26 kgs.
Monthly production capacity: 10,000*26 kgs.
So, Monthly production efficiency= 90%
DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PROCESS(GARMENTS SECTION):
Sequence Operation for Sample Section:
Product Package
Make Pattern
If not OK
Make Sample
Send to Buyer through Merchandiser
If OK
Collect the approved Sanple
29. 29
Sequence Operation for Cutting Section:
Fabric Inspection & relaxation
Fabrid spreading
Fabic cutting
Parts numbering
Part inspection
If any defect is found then make this part
Sequence Operation for Sewing Section( Line Tisa):
Front Yoke joining
Elastic join
Topstich
Sleeve join
Front Yoke join
Sleeve join
Elastic tuck
Elastic tuck
Elastic join
30. 30
Back part piping
Front Yoke+Sleeve+Back Yoke Joining
Elastic ¼ Stiching
Vertical tuck
Sleeve opening tuck
Side seam
Chup tuck
Sleeve opening chup tuck
Hem
Inspection
REMARKS:
As NORTHERN FASHION LTD. is a big project; its production quantity is huge.
Production quantity varies as according as buyers demand. It gives approximately 234-ton and
600000 pcs production per month. In Bangladesh, there are a few mills, which can produce
such quantity of knitted fabrics.
32. 32
QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM:
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over
the grey inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults
like thick-thin, barre marks, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle lines, slubs,
etc are recorded in grey inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system.
Collar & cuff are inspected visually under light box, any major & minor faulty
collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle lines, slubs, wrong design, first line problem
etc properly counted and recorded.
QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE:
Based on the sequence of grey inspection, the inspector serially numbers each roll
ensuring that all rolls having the knit card with complete details of the roll.
1) After production of fabric rolls of 8 to 25 kg, m/c operators cut them from the
cloth or batch roller and they are carried to inspection section by the helpers.
2) Almost four inspection workers are for every shift to check the fabric rolls. For
any kind of fault they are checked thoroughly. Skilled inspectors find them and indicate them
by the scissors in some cases.
3) Quality is specified on the basis of 4-points system. Here is the point distribution
for different kinds fault in this system: -
QUALITY CLASSIFICATION
1 2 3
<20 20-30 30>
OK ASK REJECT
FOUR POINT GRADING SYSTEM
Size of defects Penalty
3 inches or less 1 point
Over three inch but not 6 inch 2 point
Over 6 inch but not 9 inch 3 point
Over 9 inch 4 point
33. 33
LIST OF EQUIPMENTS:
In this factory NCL is the list of equipments to assure quality: -
1) Inspection machine
2) Scissors
3) Weight balance & Microbalance
4) GSM cutter
5) Seal (‘CHECK-1’, ‘OK’, ‘REJECT’.).
Rejection criteria for body & Rib: Following table shows common body & rib faults and
response by grey inspection section.
No. Faults Response
1. Needle marks Major needle line is rejected.
2. Stripe Major needle line is rejected.
3. Barre marks Rejected
4. Slubs 1 point
5. Wrong design Rejected
6. Pin holes 1 point
7. Fly & contamination Acceptable for color but not for white
8. Sinker marks Do
9. Uneven tension Discuss with manager
10. Missing yarn Use 4 point
11. Crease line Do
12. Uneven tension Discuss with manager
13. Oil stripe/line Do
14. Thick-thin place Rejected
15. Mixed yarn Discuss with manager
34. 34
Rejection criteria for collar & cuff: Following table shows common collar & cuff faults
and response taken by grey inspection section.
No. Faults Response
1. Wrong ply Reject
2. Hole Reject
3. Needle line Reject
4. Slubs Reject
5. Wrong design Reject
6. Wrong tripping Reject
7. Fly & contamination Acceptable for color but not for white
8. First round problem Reject
9. Uneven tension Discuss with manager
10. Missing yarn Reject
11. Crease line Reject
12. Rust line Reject
13. Oil stripe Reject
14. Thick-thin Reject
15. Wrong tube Reject
QUALITY STANDARD:
Here is the quality standard:-
1) Fabric width 7) Broken needle /2’’
2) Fabric length 8) Thick /thin yarn
4) Slub 9) Barre/ Stripe
3) Fabric weight 10) Dirt
5) Hole 11) Oil
6) Needle / Sinker line 12) Press off
REMARKS:
There is hardly any chance of any roll to pass through production on to any buyers by to
by unchecked or disqualified. The inspections are too much experience and they are aware
about their duties and responsibilities. The factory authority and production related personnel
are happy and satisfied with their works
36. 36
MAINTENANCE:
Maintenance of machineries is very important for any type of industries and it is a
must for a knit composite mill. All machines and machines parts of knitting, dyeing and
garments are maintained with extreme care. Because production quality and quantity, both
depends on the maintenance with regularity. NORTHERN FASHIONLTD lead maintenance
with a troop of skilled mechanical fitters.
MAINTENANCE OF MACHINERY:
In the knitting floor of NCL all circular machine are maintained regularly and as
necessity requirements. Here, different type of maintenance of machinery, which is taken,
different time on the machineries.
ROUTINE:
1) Daily Maintenance: Every machine is taken maintenance daily by the
operators during production. When the operator starts a production after handing over from
previous shift operator, he takes a routine maintenance on the machine. He cleans the
machine, assures yarn is fed to all needles, cleans the eye pot of feeder, memminger, signal
lamp sensor etc. Before a while of a roll cut from batch or cloth roller, operator cleans
needles, cylinder base plate etc. All around of the machine are kept neat and clean as if there
is no dirt with yarn in the fabric.
2) Schedule/Routine Maintenance: Every machine has a schedule of maintenance
of 10 or 15 days. According to date, schedule maintenance is taken on the machines.
Operators are informed about the time of maintenance. After pre-estimated production, they
hand over the machine to the fitters. Thus, fitters assure all machines are OK. For any time.
3) Break down maintenance: When product quality hampered and to complete
production in due time break down maintenance is taken. There are many faults seen in the
fabric during production due to needle, sinker, take down roller etc. Then operators inform the
mechanical fitters and they fix it.
4) Restorative maintenance: Restorative maintenance is taken for design change
or new design development. According to advice or order of production officer, a machine is
fixed for new design and mechanical fitters rearrange cam and needle system.
Planned and preventive maintenance are not taken on the machineries in this mill.
MAINTENANCE OF ‘CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C’:
Lubrication:
Since the life of the m/c and its correct working depend to a large extend adequate
and proper lubrication. It is recommended that the instructions given in the lubrication charts
be followed conscientiously. The Company can not be need responsible for faults that arise
from wrong or inadequate lubrication.
37. 37
Oiling Needles & Jacks:
Too much oil is preferable to too little. Dark vertical lines in the fabric originate not
from excessive oiling b but from too mach friction between needle and jacks and the trick
walls on account of lack of oil. Should dark vertical lines makes their appearance is
recommended that the appropriates m/c parts be flooded with oil. This will cause heavy
soiling or ht fabrics but the trouble will disappear quickly correct quantity of oil then can be
applied. The supply of oil should be reduced if light oil striper appears on the fabric.
The Cleaning of Needle & Jacks:
Thin oil is most suitable for this work, about one point heated to a temperature not
exceeding 160ºF poured into the oiling position of the cylinder & dial cam races & in the
heads of the needles while the m/c is running. The fabric will found to be cleaned again after
few yards have been knitted. How often cleaning is necessary will depend upon what kind of
yarn is being used. Synthetic yarn cleaning is taken place at lest monthly, yarn with absorbent
properties is being knitted at same time.
General Cleaning Schedule:
Long m/c life, maximum output & trouble free running depend upon proper care
and maintenance. A general overhaul should take place annually when single shifts are
worked & correspondingly at more frequent interval. When extra shifts are worked. The
overhaul involves removal of all cam section and removal of needles and jacks from their
tricks, so tat the tricks should be thoroughly the cleaned. Before parts are replaced they should
be adequately lubricated.
39. 39
MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE:
1) For there is any mechanical fault of machine, which is responsible for
production hamper, operator informs mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitters come and
observe the problem firstly, and then they begin to fix it.
2) If mechanical fitters were unable to fix it, then they inform technical in-charge,
he then comes in spot and fixes it.
3) For there is any electrical problem of machine or serious founding mechanical
problem, mechanical and electrical department are informed, they come and fix the problem.
They commence at work after informing of knitting manager. There are two mechanical
engineers in the department.
4) For restorative maintenance, senior production officer orders mechanical
fitters to fit required machine for cam and needle arrangement and other necessary
requirements in case of new design development.
Maintenance sequence of circular knitting machine
Power on/off
↓
MPF/Positive feeder current line off
↓
MPF belt out/loss
↓
Yarn cut
↓
Fabric out by handle
↓
Cleaning and Oiling
↓
Cam box out
↓
Needle & sinker out
↓
Needle & sinker cleaning by oil
↓
Cam box cleaning by air
After opening & cleaning, m/c is leveled by using leveling meter and follows the reverse
process to ready the m/c.
40. 40
MAINTENANCE TOOLS/EQUIPMENTS & THEIR FUNCTIONS:
Maintenance tools/equipments Functions
1. Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut & bolts
2. Air suctioner For cleaning machine
3.Spanner Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts fitting
4.Socket spanner Handle system for nut & bolt fitting
5. Hammer To apply load where required
6. Screw driver To release any screw
7. Punch Used to fit any worn out shaft
8. Lock opener To open the clip of bearing
9. Hack saw To cut any metallic thing
10. Outside calipers To measure outside dia
11. Inside calipers To measure inside dia
12. Cutting pliers To cut thin wires
13. Pulley key To loosen pulleys
14. Chain ton To lift heavy load
15. Welding machine To join metallic parts
16. Grinding machine To make the smooth fabrics
17. Tester To test electric circuit
18. Pliers To grip anything & cut anything
19. Star driver Screw unlocking
20. Steel tape To measure length, width & height
21. Chisel To cut any metal
22. L-key For loosen & tighten the screw
23. File To smooth the rough surface
41. 41
Repair, maintenance and setting and replacement of different parts of
lockstitch machine:
Apparatus:
1. Flat screw driver
2. Star screw driver
3. Hammer
4. Pliers
5. Lubricating oil
6. Grease
Standard atmospheric condition:
Temperature………………28c
Relative humidity………..62%
Procedure: The repair, maintenance, setting and replacement procedure are described below:-
1. Repair: Repair work is carried out when a component requires slight modification.
To carry out such job the machine needs to be switched off first. The component
under repair is then screwed off by suitable apparatus. After repairing, the part is
fixed to its designated place and hence its correctness is measured by running the
machine. In a lockstitch machine bobbin case, bobbin, check spring, feed dog.
Motor belt etc can undergo repair job.
a. Maintenance: Maintenance can be of different types. But following types are
important in this aspect.
b. Routine maintenance: lubrication and regular inspection are the constituent of
routine maintenance. Lubrication ensures long life and safe working of all the
equipment. Inspection tries to detect faults in equipment so that repairs and
replacement may be under taken at the right time.
c. Scheduled maintenance: this type of maintenance provides for inspection,
overhaul lubrication and servicing of the machine, cleaning of all components is
normally done in this manner. It involves opening of the machine into its smallest
component and carry out lubrication.
2. Setting: the setting of the lockstitch machine is of immense importance. Following
setting points need to be ensured before running the machine.
42. 42
a. Stitch density controller: It controls the no of stitch per inch. Before starting the
machine, stitch per inch is determined by rotating the knob and fixing it at the
desired position.
b. Motor: Motor rpm depicts the speed of the machine. The rpm is controlled by
tightening or looseness the belt over machine & motor pulley.
c. Needle: needle undergoes accurate setting to ensure proper sewing. Needle is
attached by means of a screw which needs to be tightened enough to produce easy
sewing. Again the needle size is also important from fabric point of view.
d. Pressure foot: The type of pressure foot to be used & its proper setting is
important which is ensured by proper attachment with the motor through machine
pulley.
e. Feed dog: It is often found that due to random working the feed dog is subjected to
be loose which may cause accident also. Thus the feed dog must be set properly
with the screw.
3. Replacement: The replacement is revealed when the retention of equipment is no
more remain an economical proposition. A replacement is affected when the
equipment is subjected to complete breakage which cannot be used even after repair
or the component has become so obsolete that affects production or it has crossed
its expire date. Replacement can be affected to any components of the machine at
any time. In lockstitch machine components like needle, pressure foot, feed dog etc
undergo frequent replacement.
Precaution: Following precautions must be taken when repair, setting maintenance is carried
out in the lockstitch machine.
1. All repair & maintenance work must be carried out by switching off the
machine.
2. Right tools should be used at right place.
3. Skilled personnel should be involved for specialized job.
4. Careful handling of all the components is necessary.
5. The components should not be too tight or too loose.
Remarks: The experiment has provided us wide idea regarding the repair, maintenance,
setting & replacement of different components of lockstitch machine & circular knitting m/c.
It has given us a basic knowledge on machine maintenance as a whole. It has also oriented us
with different machine tools & their use those are required for the said job. The gathered
knowledge will indeed help us in our practical life. We hope to important our learning in the
days to come.
43. 43
This mill has a strong maintenance fitter’s troop to fix up all types problem. Two
groups of two shifts obey their duties responsibly and sincerely. With their different tools or
equipments they perform their duties skillfully
45. 45
UTILITY FACILITIES AVAILABLE:
For smooth functioning of any production unit, uninterrupted and
required utility services are indispensable. Success of any industry largely depends
on this factor. Any irregularity or lack in the required utility services immediately
results in unexpected halt of the production process. An Industry needs various
utilities depending on its manufacturing process.
In NCL the major utilities are available-
- Power (Electricity)
- Water
- Natural gas
- Compressed air
- Steam
- ETP
SOURCES OF UTILITIES:
The main utility, which is used by NCL, is natural gas. From
natural gas generator produce electricity. From natural gas and electricity in
association with mechanical and electrical apparatus, NCL produce other utilities
like water, steam, compressed air etc.
CAPACITY AND OTHER TECHNICAL DETAILS:
Power (Electricity):
Generator house is the main power producing plants of NCL
There are one generator in generator house.
Generator -
Type: gas generator
Brand name: Caterpillar
Origin: USA
Frequency: 50 Hz
Voltage: 400 V
STEAM:
Boiler produces the required steam. There is one boiler in NFL
Boiler specification:
Brand name: Industrial boiler Ltd
Capacity: 8ton / hr
Blower motor: 25 HP
46. 46
Water supply for the boiler:
Water required for steam production is supplied by deep tube well.
Pretreatment of the boiler water:
Boiler feed water needs special standard. Any deviation from the
required standard may result in scale formation, which eventually reduces the
efficiency of the boiler. This ultimately affects the cost of steam generation and
makes the production cost high. To maintain the required standard of the water,
there should be some means to pretreat the boiler feed water. To protect scale
formation of boiler, NELCO is used as chemical in water feed tank. 200 gm NELCO
is injected per 12 hrs. In NCL there are water softeners that act before the water
enters the boiler.
.
No. Of the softener :
There is one water softener to pretreat the boiler feed water.
COMPRESSED AIR:
The compressed air is supplied from air compressor. There are one-air
compressors in NCL.
Compressor -
Brand name Hitachi Screw Compressor
Origin: Japan
Model no. OSP-55S5 ARI
Maximum working pressure: 15 bar
Average working pressure: 6.5-7.5 bar
Year of construction: 2006
WATER:
The water source NCL is deep tube well.
Water treatment plant: There is no eater treatment plant in NCL.
GAS:
The source of gas is government agency. Gas is required mainly for
generation of electricity, boiler to produce steam, the burners of heat setting m / c.
As NCL generates their own electricity, the gas consumption is quite high. The gas
consumption is 250-350 m³ / hr.
COST OF DIFFERENT UTILITIES:
Electricity cost:
REB =3.8 TK / KW-HR
47. 47
Gas generator = 2.70 TK / KW-HR
Diesel generator = 6.50 TK / KW-HR
Gas cost:
4.94 Tk/m³ for boiler
3.66 Tk/m³ for generator
4.5 Tk/m³ for domestic purpose
Steam cost:
4.30 Tk per kg fabric.
REMARKS:
For smooth running of factory main utilities like gas, electricity or
steam is very essential. Sometimes gas pressure is low than required pressure. When
the gas pressure is low, then diesel generator run. Government should have to ensure
proper gas supply for Industrial purpose.
49. 49
INVENTORY SYSTEM OF RAW MATERIAL:
It is previously speak that NFL. is a knit composite industry. The main raw
material of NCL is grey fabric. Grey fabric first produce in knitting department of
this company. Knitting section of NFL. Produces grey fabric as per buyers order.
Dyeing section get grey fabric from knitting section. Grey fabric store officer
receive the grey fabric and store the grey fabric in storeroom. Then he delivers the
grey fabric to batch preparation section according to shipment date or according to
production manager of dyeing section instruction.
Other raw materials of NFL are dyes and chemicals. Dyes and
chemicals store officer always keep stock report of dyes and chemicals and also
know the daily or monthly requirements of each dyes or chemicals. If the stock is
bellowing30days then he gives requisition to head office for each product. Head
office indent dyes and chemicals.
SPARES:
Spare store officer keep the spare part in store & make a list of spare parts.
If the spare parts are little in stock he gives requisition to maintenance manager.
Technical manager give requisition to Head office. Head office indent spare parts or
buy local market as per requirements.
FINISHED GOODS INVENTORY:
Finish fabrics from the compactor go to inspection team. From the
inspection table the fabric weighted in weight meter & go to finish fabric storeroom.
Here finished fabric store officer make a list of total finished products. He sends the
finished fabric to NORTHERN FASHION LTD as per shipment date or
requirements of production manager of NORTHERN FASHION LTD. He also
keeps the delivery list.
REMARKS:
Inventory control system and storing system of NFL. is over all good.
51. 51
INTRODUCTION:
Costing is a process by which the setting price of a product is calculated. It is a
very important task for a factory, which runs for business purposes.
And it is also strictly followed in the NCL. Costing of the products considering the raw
materials expenditure, salary and wages of officers and workers, distributions and
advertisement expenses etc. all direct and indirect expenses is done in this factory. It is
determined by a troop of accountants with advice and consultancy of executive director.
PRICE OF THE PRODUCT:
Generally price of product is determined by the required profit adding to the total
expenses. So,
Price of products= (Direct expenses + Indirect expenses + Factory
Overhead) + Required profit
PRICE RANGE OF DIFFERENT PRODUCTS:
T-Shirt = $0.75 - $4.50 /Pcs
Polo Shirt =$2.00 - $6.50 /Pcs
Kids Wear ==$0.75- $2.15 /Pcs
KNITTING CHARGE OF DIFFERENT FABRICS:
Fabric name Charge per kg(Tk)
Single Jersey 8-9
Single Jersey with Lycra 30-35
Single locust PK 16
Double lacost PK 16
Single PK 16
Double PK 16
Rib 12-17
Rib with Lycra 30
Interlock 18-22
Fleece 22-25
52. 52
DYEING CHARGE OF DIFFERENT FABRICS:
Name of fabric process Charge per kg (Tk)
White with Enzyme 45
White without Enzyme 35
Avg. color with Enzyme 85
Avg.color without Enzyme (Light&
med.)
75
Deep shed with Enzyme (Black) 120
Deep shed without Enzyme (Black) 95
Only wash (Tubular) 25
Only wash (Open) 45
Double dyeing (Face & Back) 115
FINISHING CHARGE OF DIFFERENT FABRICS:
Name of fabric process Charge per kg(Tk)
Slitting only 5
Stenter only 25
Compacting only 15
Stenter + Compacting 35
Stenter + Compacting+ wash 50
Tube Compacting 10
COSTING OF THE PRODUCT:
Let price of yarn is $ 3.00/ kg.
Process loss of yarn for knitting (10%) = $0.30
Knitting fabric cost = $3.30
Cost of dyes & chemicals = $2.50
Process loss for dyeing (12%) = $0.30
Dyed fabric cost = $ 6.10
Packing cost = $0.05
Production cost of fabric=$6.15
Fabric price (with 25% margin) =$7.79
Fabric consumption/ doz. = (Body length + Sleeve length +10) x Chest length x 2 x GSM x12
/10000000
Garments specification:
Body length=78 cm
Sleeve length=33 cm
Chest length=62 cm
GSM=210
Fabric consumption/ doz. = {(78+33) x62x2x210x12}/ 10000000
= 3.469 kg
53. 53
Fabric consumption/doze (with 10% wastage) = 3.816 kg
Body fabric cost / doz. =$(7.79x 3.816)
= $29.73
Cost of collar& cuff/doz = $ 4.00
Cost of Trims=$ 2.25
Cost of Trims (with 5% Process loss) = $2.36
Production Cost of Garments/ doz=$36.09
Garments Price/doz (with 25% Profit) =$45.12
REMARKS:
Costing is very important for a productive factory. Without proper costing all production
curriculums will go to vain. Because a factory cannot reach to its goal without achieving good
profit and good profit is not possible without skillful costing. In NCL there are some skillful
personnel to do this job.
55. 55
INTRODUCTION:
Marketing activities are done of NCL by a skillful team of marketing officers under
the Executive Director. Here are the details of marketing activities.
CONSUMER OF THE PRODUCTS:
The mill has a great number of renowned and international consumers. Following
are some regular consumers:
1) Lindex 2) Carryfour
3) Kappal
PRODUCT LABEL:
There are following labels used by this mill:
1) Care Label: It contains washing in hot or cold water, chemical cleaning,
drying conditions etc.
2) Size Label: It contains size of garments.
3) Composition Label: It contains the fabric composition of different fibre type.
4) Decorative Label: Decoration is as buyer or consumer choice wise.
PACKAGE SIZE & LABEL:
Most common sizes are
S - Small
M - Medium
L - Large
XL - Extra large
XLL - Very very large
LOCAL MARKET:
NFL is 100% export oriented mill. So there is no local market involved in it. But
the knitting section takes some sub-contact for knitting an amount of fabrics from there given
yarn.
IMPORTING COUNTRIES:
This mill relates to the countries for yarn importing, they are
1) India
2) Taiwan
MANPOWER:
Almost seven marketing officers and twelve others workers act under the
Executive Director.
56. 56
DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITES OF MARKETING OFFICERS:
1) Executive director takes order from the buyer and gives order the marketing
officer’s troops to produce a cost sheet.
2) Marketing officers are known the amount and design of product.
3) They collect the sample from the buyers and send to knitting and dyeing section.
4) Knitting section adjusts the amount of total yarn and knitting conditions and
dyeing sections adjust the amount of dyes and chemicals. They send a rough calculation to the
marketing section.
5) Marketing officers adjust the amount of garments accessories with the help of
their own experiences and their knowledge. They also take help of garments in charge.
6) Finally, they adjust their cost sheet after consulting with the Executive Director
and copy several pieces of the cost sheet.
REMARKS:
Marketing activities are very important tasks for a productive factory. In this mill,
there having highly qualified marketing officers. As a result, the mill rises up day by day.
57. 57
SOME ANALYSIS & REPORT
LYCRA% CALCULATION:
Half feeder lycra
Circumference of elastane roller 5.5 cm
Revolution of elastane roller Per revolution of cylinder: 61
For cotton yarn: 100 feeders
100*2510*3*453.6
1000*30*840*0.9144
14.822 gm
Lycra for 50 feeder 61*5.5*50*40/100*9000 gm
0.7455gm
Total weight (0.7455+14.822) gm
15.57 gm
Lycra0.7455*100/15.57
4.78%
Cotton Yarn 14.822*100/15.57
95.19%
In case of full feeder (5% lycra) 20 den Lycra is used
In case of full feeder (10% lycra) 40 den Lycra is used
58. 58
FAULTS OF GREY FABRICS:
1. Patta
Causes:
1. Yarn count variation
2.Yarn tension variation
Remedies:
Proper yarn count & tension should be maintained.
Remarks:
For dark color & plain single jersey patta very sensitives. But in case of
derivatives of single jersey, rib &interlock light patta considerable.
2. Contamination:
Causes:
1.For unlearned machine & floor.
2.Little space between two adjacent machines.
3. For hairy & color yarn.
Remedies:
1.Proper cleaning of machine & floor.
Remarks:
Protection of every machine from dust & fly. In case of light color
contamination is very bad appearance. As a result garments rejected.
3.Needle mark:
Causes:
For bent hook & latch.
Remedies:
Immediately change faulty needle.
Remarks:
Needle mark is a common faults of knitting because unconscious of
operator. It has very bad effective for dyeing & causes a great loss of company.
59. 59
4.Hole:
Causes:
1. For needle breakage & wrong adjustment of machine parts.
2. For uneven yarn & deposit of fibre.
Remedies:
Correct adjustment of machine parts &clean machine.
5.Lycra out & tension variation of Lycra:
Causes: Breakage of Lycra yarn & uneven tension of Lycra.
6. Oil mark
7. Tara &loop.
FABRIC CONSUMPTION PROCESS:
Suppose we get a following order of T-shirt;
Fabric type – Single jersey
Finished gsm- 160 gm
Color gsm-300gm
60. 60
FABRIC CONSUMPTION FOR A SINGLE T- SHIRT –
Lengthwise fabric need for body –
For length-60 cm
Shrinkage- 1 cm
Hem- 3 cm
Total -64 cm
Fabric need for chest-
Cheast-40 cm
Shrinkage-1 cm
Cutting allowance-2 cm
Sewing allowance-2 cm
Total-45 cm
Fabric need for Sleeve –
Sleeve-40cm
Cutting allowance-2 cm
Sewing allowance-2 cm
Shrinkage allowance-2cm
61. 61
Total=45cm
Area of fabric –
Length x Width=0.92x0.45 square meter
=0.414 square meter
=0.414x160 g m (Gsm=160 gm)
=66.24 gm x 2 (for two side)
=132.48 gm x 1.1 (10% allowance for fabric fault)
=0.145 kg x 1.05 (5% allowance for garments faults)
=0.152 kg/garment
FABRIC CONSUMPTION FOR COLLAR:
62. 62
Fabric need=0.3x1 square meter
=0.3x 300 gm
=90 gm/collar
Another method:
Make a collar & weighted it.
Another method:
If a collar is 3 ply & stitch length=4 mm
Course/cm=13&
Wales/cm=13
If the collar 66 cm long & 9 cm wide then-
Total course =13x9=117
Total needle=13x66=858 Pcs
Fabric need=858x4x117x3 mm=1204 m=1312 yards
If yarn 26s/1 then
Collar weight=(0.4536x1312)/(840x26) kg
=27 gm
YARN REQUIIRMENT:
Normally ordered 10% more yarn than fabric consumption
SPECIAL FABRIC LYCRA SINGLE JERSEY PRODUCTION:
Open width machine best for knitting lycra fabric
If knitting in tubular form machine then roller pressure decrease & box used for fabric
take up.
Yarn tension 5/7 & lycra yarn tension 2/3
Required finished dia= Grey fabric dia.
HEAT SET BEFORE DYEING:
Lycra fabric heat set both before dyeing & after dyeing.
Heat set parameter-
Temperature 180˚-190˚
Rpm 12-16
Over feeding 35/45/50
Heat dia=Finished dia+5/6"
After Heat set gsm=Required gsm
63. 63
WHOLE PRODUCTION PROCESS
PRODUCTION PROCESS:
Receiving order sheet from merchandiser
↓
Yarn count & stitch length selection
↓
Machine selection
↓
Sample making
↓
After having sample results go for bulk
↓
Grey fabric storing
↓
Delivery to dyeing
↓
Dyeing
↓
Finishing
↓
Quality check
↓
Garments making
↓
Garments finishing
↓
Packing
↓
Final inspection
↓
Shipment
64. 64
1. RECIVING ORDER SHEET
FABRIC SPECIFICATION:
Fabric type
Finished gsm
Finished dia
Color
Yarn composition
Yarn quality
Shrinkage level
2. YARN COUNT SELECTION
If Buyer give swatch then –
Analysis the swatch-
Count measurement from bees leys balance.
Stitch length measurement from swatch.
If swatch not given then use experience, formula & standard data-
By using formula-
(Ks x Tex)/stitch length= Finished gsm
In experience-
Ks-
For Single jersey=19-21
For 1 x 1 Rib =26
For 2 x 1 rib =31
For Interlock =38
66. 66
FOR LYCRA SINGLE JERSEY:
Finished gsm Cotton
Yarn count
Lycra count
In Deniar
180 40/1 20d
200-210 34/1 20d
220-230 30/1 20d
240-250 30/1 20d
3. MACHINE SELECTION:
Machine dia & gauge selection is depends on finished fabric dia, finished fabric gsm & fabric
type. It is very tuff to select machine according to order. It depends upon officer’s experiences
& some calculation.
Experience data & calculation:
In a finished fabric first we calculated wales/cm.
If wales/inch for a finished fabric 33.11 Then
If 24 dia 20 gauge machine then no of total needle 1508.
For one side 1508/2=754
Dia of finished fabric 754/33.11=22.77 inch in 24 x 20 machine.
In experience
In 160 gsm (26/1) & 180 gsm (24/1) Plain single jersey finished fabric wales/inch=35.25
1 x 1 rib (200 gsm) in 30x18 machines suppose finished dia =30 inch Then
2 x 1 rib in 30 x 18 machines –
Total needle=1696-565=1130
For one side =1130/2=565
Finished dia=565/28.2=20 inch
67. 67
EXPERIENCE DATA:
For Single jersey-
For 1 x 1 Rib-
For Plain Interlock –
Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia
200 40/1 24 Finished dia=Machine dia
180 40/1 24 Finished dia=Machine dia+1
220-230 34/1 24 Finished dia=Machine dia+2
240-250 30/1 24 Finished dia=Machine dia+2/3
4. SAMPLE MAKING:
According to fabric order we make small amount of fabric. Then
dyeing & finishing have done
Before sample making we have to check-
Yarn quality
VDQ pulley adjustment
After making grey sample. Check-
Gsm
All types of fabric faults
Finished gsm Count Finished dia
140 30/1 Machine dia= finished dia
160 26/1 Machine dia+1= finished dia
180 24/1 Machine dia+2= finished dia
200 20/1 Machine dia+3= finished dia
220 18/1 Machine dia+5= finished dia
Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia
150-200 30/1 18 Finished dia= Machine dia
210-220 28/1 18 Finished dia= Machine dia
220-230 26/1 18 Finished dia= Machine dia+1
240-250 24/1 18 Finished dia= Machine dia+1/2
280-300 20/1 18 Finished dia= Machine dia+2/3
68. 68
After making finished sample we have to check-
Gsm
Dia
Shrinkage
Spirality
Sensitive faults for specific color-
Light color-Neps not acceptable.
Dark color-Patta, dead fibre not acceptable.
White color- No fly, dust & contamination.
5.BULK PRODUCTION:
If we got satisfactory results after checking finished sample we go bulk production.
6.GREY FABRIC STORING:
Roll marking must be correct.
Open form storage.
Roll form for lycra.
Dia / color wise fabric selection.
7. DELIVERY TO DYEING:
After then further steps proceed on.
69. 69
FABRIC DESIGNS
1. Plain Single Jersey –
2. Single Lacoste-
3. Double Lacoste-
4. Polo Pique-
5. Single Jersey Lycra-
6. Plain Rib-
72. 72
CONCLUSION:
When the development of the country was at a stand still position
due to the legacy of shattered economy and the industrialization was stagnant, the
export oriented textile and RMG sector had shown the ray of hope by its all-
pervasive positive impact on the national economy. At the fag end of the eighty, this
sector started expanding and within a short period of its existence, this nascent
industry became the largest foreign exchange earner.
Standing at the verge of a new millennium, Textile and RMG
sector is now the heart of our national economy. Even after all this achievements,
this industry faces the major challenge of global adjustment in the coming years
when it has to respond the new trading arrangement after 2004.
NORTHERN FASHION LTD being a part of this decisive sector
will have to take necessary measure to cope with the change of globalization.
Modification of the technical arrangement with the advancement of technologies and
good positive approach will help to survive in this ever-changing global economy.
Hopefully, the confidence and foresight of the entrepreneurs and
the enthusiastic teamwork of the professionals will take NORTHERN FASHION
LTD to an even better position.
