Industrial attachment of northern corporation limited

Industrial Attachment
Page 1
Southeast University
Department of Textile
INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
Northern Corporation Limited
Page 1
INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Page 1
INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

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Page 3
Circular Knitting floor
Organogram of Fabric Division
BuyerWise
Production
Officer (3)
Knitting
Supervisor
(3)
M/c
Operator
& Helper
Out
Supervisor
(10)
Page 3
AGM
(Fabric
Division)
BuyerWise
Production
Officer (3)
Out
Supervisor
(10)
Sr
Executive
(1)
Excutive
(1)
Quality
Excutive
Mechanica
lTeam
Fitterman
Incharge
(1)
Fitterman
(4)
Quality
Supervisor
(3)
Page 3
Quality
Excutive
Mechanica
lTeam
Fitterman
(4)

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Accessories
Store
Yarn
Distribution
Area
Maintenance
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ToiletToilet
Inspection
M/c
Keep
Fabric
Roll
Keep
Fabric
Roll
S N
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LAYOUT PLAN Industrial Attachment
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Accessories
Store
Yarn
Distribution
Area
Maintenance
L
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ToiletToilet
Inspection
M/c
Keep
Fabric
Roll
Keep
Fabric
Roll
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LAYOUT PLAN Industrial Attachment
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EXIT
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EXITEXITEXIT
Accessories
Store
Yarn
Distribution
Area
Maintenance
L
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f
t
ToiletToilet
Inspection
M/c
Keep
Fabric
Roll
Keep
Fabric
Roll
S N
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LAYOUT PLAN

Page 5
Specification of Circular Knitting M/c
M/c
No.
M/C
Brand
Origin Machine Type Dia Gauge Feeder
01 Top Knit Korea Single Jersey 34 28 102
02 ʺ ʺ ʺ 34 28 102
03 ʺ ʺ ʺ 34 24 102
04 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 24 102
05 Monarch England ʺ 30 28 90
06 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 28 90
07 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 28 90
08 Top Knit Korea Interlock /Rib 34 24 82
09 ʺ ʺ Single Jersey 34 24 82
10 ʺ ʺ ʺ 34 24 82
11 Terrot Germany ʺ 30 28 96
12 Mayer &Cie ʺ ʺ 34 24 108
13 Top Knit Korea ʺ 30 24 90
14 Mayer &Cie Germany Interlock/Rib 32 18 68
15 Mayer &Cie Germany ʺ 32 18 68
16 Fukuhara Japan Single Jersey 36 24 102
20 Fukuhara Japan Interlock/Rib 30 22 72
21 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 22 72
22 Top knit Korea Interlock/Rib 30 24/28 72
23 Mayer &Cie Germany Single Jersey 38 24 123
24 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 20 96
25 ʺ ʺ ʺ 36 24 114
26 ʺ ʺ Interlock/Rib 34 18 72
29 Fukuhara Japan Semi Jacquard - - -
30 ʺ ʺ ʺ - - -
31 ʺ ʺ Engineering
Stripe
30 20 48
32 ʺ ʺ ʺ - - -
Page 5
M/c
No.
M/C
Brand
02 ʺ ʺ ʺ 34 28 102
03 ʺ ʺ ʺ 34 24 102
04 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 24 102
06 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 28 90
07 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 28 90
10 ʺ ʺ ʺ 34 24 82
12 Mayer &Cie ʺ ʺ 34 24 108
21 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 22 72
24 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 20 96
25 ʺ ʺ ʺ 36 24 114
30 ʺ ʺ ʺ - - -
Stripe
30 20 48
32 ʺ ʺ ʺ - - -
Page 5
M/c
No.
M/C
Brand
02 ʺ ʺ ʺ 34 28 102
03 ʺ ʺ ʺ 34 24 102
04 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 24 102
06 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 28 90
07 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 28 90
10 ʺ ʺ ʺ 34 24 82
12 Mayer &Cie ʺ ʺ 34 24 108
21 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 22 72
24 ʺ ʺ ʺ 30 20 96
25 ʺ ʺ ʺ 36 24 114
30 ʺ ʺ ʺ - - -
Stripe
30 20 48
32 ʺ ʺ ʺ - - -

Page 6
“Dimension of Knitting Machinery”
M/c
No.
M/C
Brand
Origin Machine
Type
Creel
Position
Length
(Inch)
Width
(Inch)
Height
(Inch)
Creel
capacity
01 Top Knit Korea S/J Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
02 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
03 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
04 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
05 Monarch England ʺ Side Creel 295" 140" 106" 192
06 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 295" 140" 106" 192
07 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 295" 140" 106" 192
08 Top Knit Korea Interlock Side Creel 190" 127" 105" 176
09 ʺ ʺ S/J Side Creel 174" 143" 105" 176
10 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 190" 126" 105" 176
11 Terrot Germany ʺ Side Creel 238" 160" 105" 192
12 Mayer &Cie ʺ ʺ Side Creel 270" 150" 125" 224
13 Top Knit Korea ʺ Side Creel 222" 158" 106" 192
14 Mayer &Cie Germany Interlock Side Creel 205" 145" 130" 144
15 Mayer &Cie Germany ʺ Side Creel 260" 130" 130" 144
16 Fukuhara Japan S/J Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
20 Fukuhara Japan Interlock Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
21 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
22 Top knit Korea Interlock Side Creel 190" 127" 105" 176
23 Mayer &Cie Germany S/J Side Creel 255" 175" 140" 224
24 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 255" 175" 140" 224
25 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 255" 175" 140" 224
26 ʺ ʺ Interlock Side Creel 260" 130" 130" 144
29 Fukuhara Japan Semi
Jacquard
Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
30 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
31 ʺ ʺ Engineerin
g Stripe
Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
32 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
Page 6
M/c
No.
M/C
Brand
Origin Machine
Type
Creel
Position
Length
(Inch)
Width
(Inch)
Height
(Inch)
Creel
capacity
02 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
03 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
04 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
06 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 295" 140" 106" 192
07 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 295" 140" 106" 192
09 ʺ ʺ S/J Side Creel 174" 143" 105" 176
10 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 190" 126" 105" 176
21 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
24 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 255" 175" 140" 224
25 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 255" 175" 140" 224
Jacquard
Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
30 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
31 ʺ ʺ Engineerin
g Stripe
Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
32 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
Page 6
M/c
No.
M/C
Brand
Origin Machine
Type
Creel
Position
Length
(Inch)
Width
(Inch)
Height
(Inch)
Creel
capacity
02 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
03 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
04 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 205" 140" 106" 208
06 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 295" 140" 106" 192
07 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 295" 140" 106" 192
09 ʺ ʺ S/J Side Creel 174" 143" 105" 176
10 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 190" 126" 105" 176
21 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
24 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 255" 175" 140" 224
25 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 255" 175" 140" 224
Jacquard
Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
30 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
31 ʺ ʺ Engineerin
g Stripe
Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208
32 ʺ ʺ ʺ Side Creel 245" 180" 105" 208

Page 7
Tongi, Gopalpur, Gazipur, Dhaka
Knitting charge/kg for TIL:
Fabric Type M/C Gauge Yarn Count Charges/kg
S/J 24 20/1-34/1 9
S/J 24 36/1-40/1 10
S/J 20 16/1-20/1 10
S/J Y/D 24 (20/1-34/1) 16
S/J Y/D 20 Y/D(18/1-30/1) 16
Heavy S/J 20 Double Yarn (26/2-40/2) 16
S/J 28 50/1-80/1 16
S/J Slub 24 24/1-36/1 12
S/J Slub 20 20/1-30/1 13
Eng.stripe S/J (4-colour) 24 Single Yarn 100
Eng.stripe PK (4-colour) 24 Single Yarn 110
Eng.stripe L-S/J (4-colour) 24 Single Yarn 180
Eng.stripe L-PK (4-colour) 24 Single Yarn 190
Eng.stripe S/J (Double Yarn) 20 Double Yarn 125
L-S/J 24-28 TUBE 25
L-S/J 24-28 OPEN 28
L-S/J 24-28 Y/D 35
S/Lacoste, PK 24 Single Yarn 14
S/Lacoste, PK 20 Double Yarn 16
L-S/Lacoste 20-24 H/Feeder 33
2T-FLEE 20-26 Single Yarn 15
L-2T-FLEE 20-26 Single Yarn 35
1×1 RIB 18 Single Yarn 14
1×1 L-RIB 18 Single Yarn 20
1×1 RIB 18 Y/D, Single Yarn 20
Waffle 18 Single Yarn 28
D/Yarn RIB 18 Single Yarn 22
2×1 RIB 18 60/2 35
2×1 L-RIB 18 60/2 45
P/Interlock 24 Cotton 16
P/Interlock 24 Polyester 38
Mesh/ Mini eyelet/ Birds eye 24 Polyester 45
Flat Rib 14 Cotton 110
Collar per sets 14 Cotton 4
Page 7
S/J 24 20/1-34/1 9
S/J 24 36/1-40/1 10
S/J 20 16/1-20/1 10
S/J Y/D 24 (20/1-34/1) 16
S/J Y/D 20 Y/D(18/1-30/1) 16
S/J 28 50/1-80/1 16
S/J Slub 24 24/1-36/1 12
S/J Slub 20 20/1-30/1 13
L-S/J 24-28 TUBE 25
L-S/J 24-28 OPEN 28
L-S/J 24-28 Y/D 35
2×1 RIB 18 60/2 35
2×1 L-RIB 18 60/2 45
Page 7
S/J 24 20/1-34/1 9
S/J 24 36/1-40/1 10
S/J 20 16/1-20/1 10
S/J Y/D 24 (20/1-34/1) 16
S/J Y/D 20 Y/D(18/1-30/1) 16
S/J 28 50/1-80/1 16
S/J Slub 24 24/1-36/1 12
S/J Slub 20 20/1-30/1 13
L-S/J 24-28 TUBE 25
L-S/J 24-28 OPEN 28
L-S/J 24-28 Y/D 35
2×1 RIB 18 60/2 35
2×1 L-RIB 18 60/2 45

Page 8
Needle and Sinker numbering system
M/C
No.
Machine
Brand
Gauge M/C
Type
Position Needle
Brand
Name Needle No.
1,2,3 Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
24 S/J Cylinder Groz-
Beckert
Needle VO-136.50 G001
VO-136.50 G002
VO-136.50 G003
VO-136.50 G004
Sinker 209202660 G00
Beckert
Needle V0-94.41 G031
V0-94.41 G032
Sinker 209202673 G00
4,13,18 Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
VO-136.50 G002
VO-136.50 G003
VO-136.50 G004
Sinker 209202660 G00
Beckert
Needle VO Ls-136.41 G0029
VO Ls-136.41 G0030
VO Ls-136.41 G0031
VO Ls-136.41 G0032
Sinker 209202673 G00
1,,2,3,4
,13,18
Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
Needle V0-141.36 G001
V0-141.36 G002
V0-141.36 G003
V0-141.36 G004
Sinker 209202673 G00
8,9,10,1
2
Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
24 Interlock Cylinder Groz-
Beckert
Needle V0-105.48 G001
V0-105.48 G002
V0-65.48 G0013
V0TA-105.48 G006
Beckert
Needle V0-105.41 G005
V0-105.41 G006
V0-65.41 G007
V0TA-65.41 G004
12,19,2
3,25
Mayer &Cie 24 S/J Cylinder Groz-
Beckert
Needle VOLS-140.50 G0036
VOLS-140.50 G0038
Sinker 206085204 G00
12,19 Mayer &Cie 28 S/J Cylinder Groz-
Beckert
VO-140.41 G0042
Sinker 206080204 G00
27,15 Mayer &Cie 24 Interlock Cylinder Groz-
Beckert
Needle V0-105.48 G001
V0-105.48 G002
Dial V0-65.48 G0013
VOTA-65.48 G006
28 Mayer &Cie 18 Rib Cylinder Groz-
Beckert
VOTA-62.50 G0011
Dial V0-147.41 G005
Page 8
M/C
No.
Machine
Brand
Gauge M/C
Type
Position Needle
Brand
Name Needle No.
1,2,3 Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
VO-136.50 G002
VO-136.50 G003
VO-136.50 G004
Sinker 209202660 G00
Beckert
V0-94.41 G032
Sinker 209202673 G00
4,13,18 Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
VO-136.50 G002
VO-136.50 G003
VO-136.50 G004
Sinker 209202660 G00
Beckert
VO Ls-136.41 G0030
VO Ls-136.41 G0031
VO Ls-136.41 G0032
Sinker 209202673 G00
1,,2,3,4
,13,18
Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
Needle V0-141.36 G001
V0-141.36 G002
V0-141.36 G003
V0-141.36 G004
Sinker 209202673 G00
8,9,10,1
2
Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
Needle V0-105.48 G001
V0-105.48 G002
V0-65.48 G0013
V0TA-105.48 G006
Beckert
Needle V0-105.41 G005
V0-105.41 G006
V0-65.41 G007
V0TA-65.41 G004
12,19,2
3,25
Beckert
VOLS-140.50 G0038
Sinker 206085204 G00
Beckert
VO-140.41 G0042
Sinker 206080204 G00
Beckert
Needle V0-105.48 G001
V0-105.48 G002
Dial V0-65.48 G0013
VOTA-65.48 G006
Beckert
VOTA-62.50 G0011
Dial V0-147.41 G005
Page 8
M/C
No.
Machine
Brand
Gauge M/C
Type
Position Needle
Brand
Name Needle No.
1,2,3 Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
VO-136.50 G002
VO-136.50 G003
VO-136.50 G004
Sinker 209202660 G00
Beckert
V0-94.41 G032
Sinker 209202673 G00
4,13,18 Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
VO-136.50 G002
VO-136.50 G003
VO-136.50 G004
Sinker 209202660 G00
Beckert
VO Ls-136.41 G0030
VO Ls-136.41 G0031
VO Ls-136.41 G0032
Sinker 209202673 G00
1,,2,3,4
,13,18
Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
Needle V0-141.36 G001
V0-141.36 G002
V0-141.36 G003
V0-141.36 G004
Sinker 209202673 G00
8,9,10,1
2
Keum Yong
(Top Knit)
Beckert
Needle V0-105.48 G001
V0-105.48 G002
V0-65.48 G0013
V0TA-105.48 G006
Beckert
Needle V0-105.41 G005
V0-105.41 G006
V0-65.41 G007
V0TA-65.41 G004
12,19,2
3,25
Beckert
VOLS-140.50 G0038
Sinker 206085204 G00
Beckert
VO-140.41 G0042
Sinker 206080204 G00
Beckert
Needle V0-105.48 G001
V0-105.48 G002
Dial V0-65.48 G0013
VOTA-65.48 G006
Beckert
VOTA-62.50 G0011
Dial V0-147.41 G005

Page 9
Machine With Brand Name
M/c Brand Origin No. of M/c
Top Knit Korea 09
Fukuhara Japan 06
Mayer &Cie Germany 10
Terrot Germany 04
Monarch England 03
Total M/c = 32
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Top Knit Korea 09
Fukuhara Japan 06
Terrot Germany 04
Monarch England 03
Total M/c = 32
Page 9
Top Knit Korea 09
Fukuhara Japan 06
Terrot Germany 04
Monarch England 03
Total M/c = 32

Page 10
Knitting
Page 10
Knitting
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Knitting

Page 11
What is kitting:
Knitting is the process of manufacturing fabric by transforming continuous strands of
yarn into a series of interlocking loops, each row of such loops hanging from the one
immediately preceding it. The basic element of knit fabric structure is the loop
intermeshed with the loop adjacent to it on both sides and above and below it.
Knitted fabric defers vastly from woven fabrics. Woven fabric is formed substantially by
interlacing of a seem of length wise and cross wise threads. Knitting in its simplest form
Consist in forming loops though those previously formed.
Classification of Knitting:
a) Warp Knitting.
b) Weft Knitting.
a) Warp Knitting:
In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different
thread and the number of threads are used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the
no of loops in a horizontal row
b) Weft Knitting:
In a weft knitted structure, a horizontal row f loop can be made using one thread and the
threads run in the horizontal direction.
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What is kitting:
a) Warp Knitting.
b) Weft Knitting.
a) Warp Knitting:
b) Weft Knitting:
Page 11
What is kitting:
a) Warp Knitting.
b) Weft Knitting.
a) Warp Knitting:
b) Weft Knitting:

Page 12
History of knitting
Knitting, as defined by Wiktionary, is "Combining a piece of thread with two needles into
a piece of fabric." The word is derived from knot, thought to originate from the Dutch
verb knutten, which is similar to the Old Englishcnyttan, to knot. Its origins lie in the
basic human need for clothing for protection against the elements. More recently,
knitting has become less a necessary skill and more a hobby.
Historical Background of Knitting Technology:
1589: Willian Lee, Inventor of the mechanical stitch formation tools.
1758: JedediahStrutt, Double knit technique Derby rib machine.
1798: MonsierDecroix, The circular knitting frame is made.
1805: Joseph Macquard, Jacquard design invent.
1847: Mathew Townend, Latch needle invent.
1850: Circular knitting machine.
1852: Theodor Groz, Steal needle.
1878: Plain & Rib bed fabric.
1910: Double face Interlock fabric.
1918: Double cylinder m/c &double headed latch needle.
1920: Colored patterned fabric (jacquard mechanism applied)
1935: Mayer and Cie.
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History of knitting
Page 12
History of knitting

Page 13
Circular Knitting Machine:
Circular knitting machine is widely used throughout the knitting industry to produce
fabric. This machine can be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the small
diameter of up to five, which are used for wear.
Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter
according to manufactures requirement. This machine can be used either as fabric or for
making garments completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed in
all modern circular machines because of their simple action and also their ability to
process more types of yarns.
The main features of the knitting machine:
Originally, the term ‘machine’ used to refer to a mechanism on a bearded needle frame
such as the fashioning mechanism on the straight bar frame. Today, it refers to the
complete assembly.
A knitting machine is thus an apparatus for applying mechanical movement, either hand or
power derived, to primary knitting elements, in order to convert yarn into knitted loop
structures.
The machine incorporates and co-ordinates the action of a number of mechanisms and
devices, each performing specific functions that contribute towards the efficiency of the
knitting action.
The main features of a knitting machine are as follows:
1. Frame: The frame, normally free-standing and either circular or rectilinear according
to needle bed shape, provides the support for the majority of the machines mechanisms.
Page 13
complete assembly.
structures.
knitting action.
Page 13
complete assembly.
structures.
knitting action.

Page 14
2. Power supply: The machine control and drive system co-ordinates the power for
the Drive of the devices and mechanisms.
3. Yarn supply or feeding: The yarn supply consists of the yarn package or beam
accommodation, tensioning devices, yarn feed control and yarn feed carriers or guides.
4. Knitting action: The knitting system includes the knitting elements, their housing,
drive and control, as well as associated pattern selection and garment- length control
devices (if equipped).
5. Fabric Take-away: The fabric take away mechanism includes fabric tensioning,
windup and accommodation devices.
6. Quality control: The quality control system includes stop motions, fault detectors,
automatic oilers and lint removal systems.
Machines may range from high-production, limited-capability models to versatile, multi-
purpose models having extensive patterning capabilities. The more complex the
structure being knitted, the lower the knitting speed and efficiency. The simplest of the
knitting machines would be hand- powered and manipulated where as power-driven
machines may be fully automatically-programmed and controlled from a computer
system.
Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine:
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system.
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system.

Page 15
Creel: Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Hear yarn
package are store and ready to feed in the machine.
VDQ Pulley: It is a very important part of the machine. It
controls the quality of the product. Altering the position of
the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If
pulley moves towards the positive directive then the
G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M
will increase.
Pulley Belt: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
Brush: Its clean the pulley belt.
Tension Disk: It confronts the tension of the supply
yarn.
Yarn Guide: Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder.
Page 15
will increase.
yarn.
Page 15
will increase.
yarn.

Page 16
MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt
gives motion to the wheel.
MPF: It is Mamenger positive feed. It is also an important
part of the machine. It’s give positive feed to the machine.
Feeder Ring: It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased
together.
Feeder: Feeder is help yarn to feed in to
the machine.
Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are
pleased together.
Cam Box: Where the cam are set horizontally.
Page 16
together.
the machine.
pleased together.
Page 16
together.
the machine.
pleased together.

Page 17
Lycra Attachment Device: Lycra is placed hear. And
feeding to the machine.
Cylinder: Needle track are situated hear.
Dial: Dial is upper steel needle bed used in
double knit machines. Into the grooves of the
dial the needle are mounted horizontally and
are allowed to move radially in and out by their
dial cams.
UNIWAVE Lubrication: The UNIWAVE lubricator
provides uniform lubrication to needles, cam tracks,
lifters and other knitting machine components. The
patented nozzle construction separates the air-oil
mixture into air and droplets of oil.
Adjustable Fan: This part removes
lint, hairy fibre from yarn and others.
To clean the dust by air flow.
Page 17
dial cams.
Page 17
dial cams.

Page 18
Expander: To control the width of the
knitted fabric. No distortion of the
knitting courses. Even take down tension
in the knitting machine. As a result, an
even fabric structure is achieved over the
entire fabric width. The deformation of
the knitted fabric goods can be reduced.
Air Gun Nozzle: To feed the yarn;
sometimes it is used for cleaning
purpose.
Primary Knitting Element
Primary Knitting Elements are mainly three types. There are as flow:
1. Needle
2. Cam
3. Sinker
Types of knitting needle
There are mainly three types of needle is used
1. Latch Needle
2. Compound Needle
3. Bearded Needle
Page 18
purpose.
1. Needle
2. Cam
3. Sinker
1. Latch Needle
2. Compound Needle
3. Bearded Needle
Page 18
purpose.
1. Needle
2. Cam
3. Sinker
1. Latch Needle
2. Compound Needle
3. Bearded Needle

Page 19
Latch Needle
Matthew Townsend, a Leicester hosier, patented the latch needle in 1849. Townsend
spent much of his time developing new knitted fabrics and he investigated a simpler way
of knitting purl fabrics. Purl fabrics required two beds of bearded needles and pressers
to alternate the face of loops between courses. A double-headed latch needle was
developed as a result of the research to allow the alternation to be achieved on one bed of
needles. A single-headed latch needle was also developed to provide an alternative to the
bearded needle.
The latch needle knitting cycle starts with the old loop trapped inside a closed latch. The
needle is pushed up and the old loop slides down the stem, opening the latch in the
process. A thread is then laid in front of the stem between the rivet and the hook. As
the needle is pulled down the hook catches the thread and forms a new loop. The old
loop now slides back up the stem, closes the latch and falls off the end of the needle. The
cycle is then repeated.
Latch Needle is mostly used needle in the knitting industry today:
Latch needle were used on raschel and crochet machines.
Fig. Latch Needle
Latch Needle Characteristics:
1. Most widely used in weft knitting.
2. More expensive needle than the bearded needle.
3. Self-acting or loop controlled.
4. Work at any angle.
5. Needle Depth determines the loop length.
6. Variation of the height of reciprocating produces knit, tuck or miss stitch.
Uses of Latch Needle:
Latch needle are widely used in –
1. Double Cylinder Machine.
2. Flat Bar Machine.
3. Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.
4. Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.
Page 19
Latch Needle
bearded needle.
Fig. Latch Needle
Page 19
Latch Needle
bearded needle.
Fig. Latch Needle

Page 20
Different Parts of Latch Needle has
been showed below:
1. The Hook: The hook which draws and returns the new loop.
2. The slot or Saw Cut: This slot receives the latch blade.
3. The Cheeks or Slot Walls: It is either punched or riveted
to fulcrum the latch blade.
4. The Rivet: The rivet which may be plain or threaded. This
has been dispensed with on most plated metal needles by
pinching n the slot walls to retain the latch blades.
5. The latch blade: This latch blade locates the latch in the
needle.
6. The latch spoon: The latch spoon is an extension of blade
and bridges the gap between the hook and stem.
7. The stem: The stem of latch needle carries the loop in the
clearing on rest position.
8. The Butt: Butt of latch needle enables the needle to be
reciprocated.
9. The Tail: The tail is an extension below the butt giving
additional supp9ort to the needle and keeping the needle in its
trick.
The knitting action of the latch needle
Figure shows the position of a latch needle as it passes through the cam system,
completing one knitting cycle or course as it moves up and in its trick or slot.
1) The rest position: The head of the needle hook is level with the top of the verge of
the trick. The loop formed at the previous feeder is in the closed hook. It is
prevented from rising as the needle rises, by holding-down sinkers or web holders
that move forward between the needles to hold down the sinker loops.
2) Latch opening: As the needle butt passes up the incline of the clearing cam, the old
loop, which is held down by the sinker, slides inside the hook and contacts the latch,
turning and opening it.
3) Clearing height: When the needle reaches the top of the cam, the old loop is
cleared from the hook and latch spoon on to the stem. At this point the feeder guide
plate acts as a guard to prevent the latch from closing the empty hook.
4) Yarn feeding and latch closing: The needle starts to descend the stitch cam so
that its latch is below the verge, with the old loop moving under it. At this point the
new yarn is fed through a hole in the feeder guide to the descending needle hook, as
there is no danger of the yarn being fed below the latch. The old loop contacts the
underside of the latch, causing it to close on to the hook.
Page 20
been showed below:
needle.
reciprocated.
trick.
Page 20
been showed below:
needle.
reciprocated.
trick.

Page 21
5) Knocking-over and loop length formation: As the head of the needle descends
below the top of the trick, the old loop slides off the needle and the new loop is
drawn through it. The continued descent of the needle draws the loop length, which
is approximately twice the distance the head of the needle descends, below the
surface of the sinker or trick-plate supporting the sinker loop. The distance is
determined by the depth setting of the stitch cam, which can be adjusted.
Fig. Knitting action of the latch needle.
Page 21
Page 21

Page 22
CAMS:
Cam is a primary weft knitting element. Cams are the devices which convert the rotary
machine drive into a suitable reciprocating action to the needles and other elements.
There are three types of knitting cam.
Knit cam
Tuck cam
Miss cam
The knitting cams are hardened steels and they are the assembly of different cam plates
so that a track for butt can be arranged. Each needle movement is obtained by means of
cams acting on the needle butts.
The upward movement of the needle is obtained by the rising cams or clearing cams. The
rising cam places the needle at a certain level as it approaches the yarn area. Cams
controlling the downward movement of the needles are called stitch cams.
Fig: Cams
Page 22
CAMS:
Knit cam
Tuck cam
Miss cam
Fig: Cams
Page 22
CAMS:
Knit cam
Tuck cam
Miss cam
Fig: Cams

Page 23
Sinker:
The sinker is the second primary knitting element (the needle being the first). It is a thin
metal plate with an individual or a collective action operating approximately at right
angles from the hook side of the needle bed, between adjacent needles. It may perform
one or more of the following functions, dependent upon the machine's knitting action
and consequent sinker shape and movement: It is a thin metal plated with an individual
or collective action.
It may perform the following functions:-
1. Loop Formation
2. Holding Down
3. Knocking Over.
Different Parts of Sinker
Page 23
Sinker:
1. Loop Formation
2. Holding Down
3. Knocking Over.
Page 23
Sinker:
1. Loop Formation
2. Holding Down
3. Knocking Over.

Page 24
General Terms of Knitting Technology
The knitted stitch:
The knitted stitch is the basic unit of intermeshing. It
usually consists of three or more intermeshed needle
loops. The center loop has been drawn through the
head of the lower previously-formed loop and is, in
turn, intermeshed through its head by the loop above
it. The repeat unit of a stitch is the minimum repeat of
intermeshed loops that can be placed adjoining other
repeat units in order to build up an unbroken sequence
in width and depth.
A needle loop only has its characteristic appearance because its legs are pre-vented from
spreading outwards by being intermeshed through the head of the loop below it. If there
is no previous loop to mesh through, the legs of the new loop will spread outwards. The
term stitch is unfortunately sometimes used to refer to a single needle loop. Stitch length
is a length of yarn which includes the needle loop and half the sinker loop on either side
of it. Generally, the larger the stitch length, the more extensible and lighter the fabric
and the poorer the cover, opacity and bursting strength.
The face loop stitch:
The face side of the stitch (Fig. 5.8) shows the new loop coming towards the viewer as it
passes over and covers the head of the old loop. It is referred to as the right side in
mainland Europe. Face loop stitches tend to show the side limbs of the needle loops or
overlaps as a series of inter fitting ‘V’s. The face loop-side is the underside of the stitch
on the needle.
Fig. The knitted stitch.
Page 24
The knitted stitch:
in width and depth.
on the needle.
Page 24
The knitted stitch:
in width and depth.
on the needle.

Page 25
The reverse loop stitch:
This is the opposite side of the stitch to the face loop-side and shows the new loop
meshing away from the viewer as it passes under the head of the old loop. It is referred
to as the left side on the mainland of Europe. Reverse stitches show the sinker loops in
weft knitting and the under laps in warp knitting most prominently on the surface. The
reverse loop side is the nearest to the head of the needle because the needle draws the
new loop downwards through the old loop (Figures 5.8).
The needle loop
The needle loop (H +L in Fig. 5.1) is the basic unit of knitted structure. When tension in
the fabric is balanced and there is sufficient take-away tension during knitting, it is an
upright noose formed in the needle hook. It consists of a head (H) and two side limbs or
legs (L). At the base of each leg is a foot (F), which meshes through the head of the loop
formed at the previous knitting cycle, usually by that needle. The yarn passes from the
foot of one loop into the foot and leg of the
next loop formed by it.
(NB: If the loop is the first loop knitted on that
needle, its feet and legs will not be restricted
and it will open out to give the appearance of a
tuck loop. If the loops are knitted on a flat
machine with a pressing down device and no
take-down tension, the loops will be more
rounded and will tend to incline due to the
traversing movement of the presser.)
Fig. 5.1 Intermeshing points of a needle loop.
In weft knitting, the feet are normally open because the yarn continues to be sup-plied in
one direction (except at the selvedges of straight knitting machines). Exceptionally,
closed loops have occasionally been produced in the past on the bearded needle sinker
wheel machine, by twisting a loop over as it is transferred to another needle, or by using
a twizzle beard which closes onto the back of the needle so that, as the loop is cast-off, it
twists over itself.
Page 25
The needle loop
twists over itself.
Page 25
The needle loop
twists over itself.

Page 26
The sinker loop:
The sinker loop (S in Fig. 5.1) is the piece of yarn that joins one weft knitted needle loop
to the next. On bearded needle weft knitting machines, loop-forming sinkers form the
sinker loops in succession between the needles – hence the origin of the term sinker
loop. On latch needle weft knitting machines, however, the sinker loops are
automatically formed as the needles, in succession, draw their new loops. Sinker loops
show on the opposite side of the fabric to the needle loops because the needle loop is
drawn onto the opposite side from which the yarn was originally fed. The terms ‘sinker
loop’ and ‘needle loop’ are convenient descriptive terms but their precise limits within
the same loop length are impossible to exactly define.
A Course:
A course is a predominantly horizontal row of needle
loops (in an upright fabric as knitted) produced by
adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle. (The
last five words help to prevent confusion when
describing complex weft knitted fabrics).
A Course Length:
In weft knitted fabrics (with the exception of structures such as jacquard, intarsia and
warp insertion), a course of loops is composed of a single length of yarn termed a course
length. Weft knitted structures will unweave from the course knitted last unless it is
secured, for example, by binding-off.
A wale:
A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops generally
produced by the same needle knitting at successive (not necessarily all) knitting cycles. A
wale commences as soon as an empty needle starts to knit.
 When loop transfer occurs it is possible to transfer a wale of loops from one
needle A to another B and to recommence knitting with the second needle, in
which case more than one needle will have produced intermeshed loops in the
same wale. (If needle B knits continuously, the wale knitted by needle A will
merge into it).
 In warp knitting a wale can be produced from the same yarn if the same warp
guide laps the same needle at successive knitting cycles.
 Wales are connected together across the width of the fabric by sinker loops (weft
knitting) or under laps (warp knitting).
 Wales show most clearly on the technical face and courses on the technical back
of single needle bed fabric.
Page 26
The sinker loop:
A Course:
A Course Length:
A wale:
merge into it).
Page 26
The sinker loop:
A Course:
A Course Length:
A wale:
merge into it).

Page 27
Stitch Density:
Stitch density refers to the total number of loops in a measured area of fabric and not to
the length of yarn in a loop (stitch length). It is the total number of needle loops in a
given area (such as a square inch, or three square centimeters). The figure is obtained by
counting the number of courses or pattern rows in one inch (or three centimeters) and
the number of wales in one inch (or three centimeters), then multiplying the number of
courses by the number of wales. (Using a measurement of three centimeters rather than
one, is preferable for accuracy in
counting). Stitch density gives a more
accurate measurement than does a linear
measurement of only courses or only
wales. Tension acting in one direction
might produce a low reading for the
courses and a high reading for the wales;
when they are multiplied together this
effect is cancelled out. Pattern rows rather
than courses may be counted when they are
composed of a constant number of courses.
The four primary base weft knitted structures
Four primary structures – plain, rib, interlock and purl are the base structures from
which all weft knitted fabrics and garments are derived. Each is composed of a different
combination of face and reverse meshed stitches, knitted on a particular arrangement of
needle beds. Each primary structure may exist alone, in a modified form with stitches
other than normal cleared loops, or in combination with another primary structure in a
garment-length sequence. All weft knitted fabric is liable to unrove (unravel), or ladder,
from the course knitted last, unless special ‘locking courses’ are knitted, or unless it is
specially seamed or finished.
1. Plain is produced by the needles knitting as a single set, drawing the loops
away from the technical back and towards the technical face side of the fabric.
2. Rib requires two sets of needles operating in between each other so that wales of
face stitches and wales of reverse stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric.
3. Interlock was originally derived from rib but requires a special arrangement
of needles knitting back-to-back in an alternate sequence of two sets, so that the
two courses of loops show wales of face loops on each side of the fabric exactly in
line with each other, thus hiding the appearance of the reverse loops.
Page 27
Stitch Density:
Page 27
Stitch Density:

Page 28
4. Purl is the only structure having certain wales containing both face and reverse
meshed loops. A garment-length sequence, such as a ribbed half-hose, is defined as
purl, whereas smaller sections of its length may consist of plain and rib sections.
Although in the past structures of this type were knitted only on flat bed and double
cylinder purl machines employing double-ended latch needles, electronically-controlled
V-bed flat machines with rib loop transfer and racking facilities are now used.
 Single-jersey machines can only produce one type of base structure.
 Rib machines, particularly of the garment-making type, can produce sequences of
plain knitting by using only one bed of needles.
 Interlock machines can sometimes be changed to rib knitting.
 Purl machines are capable of producing rib or plain knitting sequences by
retaining certain needle arrangements during the production of a garment or
other knitted article.
Knit Stitch:The basic stitch that forms the “v”-looking stitches that comprise
fabrics called “knits”. The knit stitch is just pulling a loop of yarn through an existing loop
on the needle. Pulling it through with the yarn in the back creates the knit stitch. Pulling
it through with the yarn in front creates the purl stitch. These are the foundation stitches
of knitting. To begin your knitting, start with a cast-on.
Float Stitch:A float stitch or welt stitch is
composed of a held loop; one or more float loops and
knitted loops. It is produced when a needle (M) holding
its old loop fails to receive the new yarn that passes, as a
float loop, to the back of the needle and to the reverse
side of the resultant stitch, joining together the two
nearest needle loops knitted from it.
In Fig. B, the float stitch shows the missed yarn floating
freely on the reverse side of the held loop. The float
Page 28
Page 28

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