Books

1. NCAR
356. Jethro 5.4 R ★★ 300ft
HILLBILLY ROCK Climb the east face just left of center, following a large
(GPS = N39°58.790 W105°17.383) 30:00 left-facing flake system. The sparsely-protected flake
Approach: Hillbilly Rock is the obvious triangular system ends before the top, and merges with the last few
flatiron sitting on the grassy hillside to the right of the feet of the following route.
entrance into Skunk Canyon, and in front of Ridge One. FA: Guy Humphry, Dan Moore 2001
Take the NCAR Trail and go right (north) on the Mesa Trail
through several switchbacks to a wooden fence. Pick up 357. East Face Center 5.0 ★★ 300ft
the Upper Skunk Canyon Trail behind this fence and head Begin in the middle of the east face, next to a large pine
100 yards into the drainage to a point just left (west) of a tree. Stay right of a large left-facing flake system and head
rotten band of rock. Take a faint trail heading northwest straight up for the summit. If roping up for this route, three
up the grassy hillside to the base of Hillbilly Rock. nice ledges provide good belay stances along the way.
FA: Pat Ament, Larry Dalke 1961
Descent: Either downclimb North Face or rappel 60ft
down the north face from webbing around a chockstone. 358. East Face Right 5.0 ★★★ 300ft
Bring 20ft of webbing for the latter option, as the anchor This is one of the best slab routes in the Flatirons for a
has a history of disappearing. beginning leader to safely cut their teeth. Start at the
northeast corner and follow an off-finger and tight-hands
Bouldering: The Trail Rock and Bulge Boulder, with prob- crack up the low-angle slab, staying left of the northeast
lems up to V3, sit near the wooden fence off the Mesa ridge. Protection is bountiful and the exposure is mild
Trail at the start of the Skunk Canyon Trail. along the ridge. There are also several comfy ledges to
belay from.
355. East Face Left 5.0 ★★★ 400ft
This is the longest route on Hillbilly. It first ascends the low 359. North Face 5.2 60ft
foot on the southeast corner of the formation, 140ft be- This route is often used as the descent path from the sum-
low the main east face. Climb this extra piece of rock to a mit and otherwise would probably not be climbed. Begin
ledge level with the east face and belay. Continue up the directly below the summit on the far right (west) side of
slab, staying near the left ridgeline, for two more pitches. the north face and climb past a bulge and several large
FA: Gerry Roach blocks to the top.
351
352
349
368 348
390
362 358
357
389
356
364 355
363
388
387
386
370
Skunk Canyon and Hillbilly Rock
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2. NCAR
HILLBILLY FLATIRONETTES
Approach: There are several large, low-angled 30:00
ridges that orbit Hillbilly Rock as well as several large
boulders along the south face. Most are not worth bothering
with, but may merit an investigation if soloing other routes
in the area.
363. HBF South Class 3 ★ 350ft
Left (south) of Hillbilly Rock are two narrow but long ribs
of rock, each with a south ridge. Start at the base of the
south ridge on the west formation and scramble/walk up
the ridge to the top. Scramble off to the east, ending up
next to the following route.
Variation: Class 3 300ft Climb the south ridge of the east
361 formation. There is more hiking and less climbing on this ridge.
364. HBF Front Boulder 5.6 ★ 30ft
There are three massive boulders along the south face of
Hillbilly Rock. This is the front, eastmost boulder. Climb
edges and flakes up the burnt-red east face. Scramble off
to the north.
360 365. HBF Middle Boulder 5.4 ★ 40ft
Directly behind the previous route is the middle boulder,
which has a summit that overhangs to the west and has
a large pine tree growing within a few feet of it. Climb a
knife-edged flake/arête along the north ridge. Reverse the
route to get down.
366. HBF East One Class 4 200ft
There is a small flatironette 70ft in front of Hillbilly Rock
Hillbilly Rock West Face
to the east. There are two forgettable routes on it, with
this one climbing the south ridge to the top. Step off to
the north.
360. West Face 5.12c ★★ 40ft 367. HBF East Two Class 3 100ft
Wander 25ft uphill to the north from the following route. Climb the east face on the same formation as for the pre-
Stick clip the high first bolt, then climb a seam, skipping vious route. Start on a smooth slab next to a black streak
the fixed bashie to the bolt. Continue up the technical and angle up and right to the top.
face to the anchor underneath a small roof.
Gear: 3 bolts 2-bolt anchor
THE HOBO
361. West Face Right 5.12c ★★ 55ft (GPS = N39°58.792 W105°17.457) 35:00
Start on the southwest corner in a left-facing dihedral. Approach: Hike past Hillbilly Rock along its north
Optional nuts protect the easy runout to the high first side and continue 50 yards uphill to the west.
bolt. From there, angle up and left, staying on the left side
of the arête to a sloping ledge with a hidden anchor. Descent: Scramble down East Face.
Gear: 4 bolts, nuts bolted anchor
368. East Face Class 3 ★★ 120ft
362. Matt Tackett’s Gone Missing 5.6 R ★ 300ft Ascend the center of the east face on large holds up a
Locate an obvious ramp/crack that angles up and right in low-angled slab to a small summit.
the center of the south face. Work up the ramp for 60ft
until the ramp cuts sharply back left. Pull the crux bulge 369. Southwest Corner 5.4 R 70ft
just before the ramp abruptly changes directions. There Begin just past the west face overhang on the south side.
is a slight runout here that could result in a ledge fall. Climb up good face holds over a bulge and angle left to
Continue up and left on an easier ramp, staying below a the top. This route has few protection opportunities.
small overhang that blocks access to the east face. Reach FA: The Satan’s Minions Soloing Club 2003
a ledge and belay (110ft). Traverse five feet right at a
point where it is easy to get onto the east face to follow
East Face Left to the summit.
FA: Jason Haas solo 2006
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3. NCAR
370. Stairway to Heaven 5.3 ★★★ 1,200ft
RIDGE ONE (LIKE HEAVEN) There is a low-angled slab at the toe of the rock where it
(GPS = N39°58.721 W105°17.316) 30:00 touches the stream at the southeast corner, which leads
Note: This is the only ridge of the four that is not to a series of small overhangs. Climb the slab over the
affected by the raptor closures. crux overhang (this can be avoided by moving further
right) and third class it up the ridge past numerous ledges
Approach: Ridge One forms the righthand entrance to and trees to a point beside the Like Heaven summit. It is
Skunk Canyon and is reached by hiking the NCAR Trail to possible to step off to the east just past this summit, but
the Mesa Trail. Take the right (north) fork on the Mesa Trail for full value continue up to the summit of Heaven, which
through several switchbacks to a wooden fence just above awaits further north. To descend from the highest summit,
the seasonal stream. Slip behind the fence and hike the scramble down the north ridge for 60ft to a tree and
climber’s Skunk Canyon Trail into the drainage. Ridge One rappel 40ft to the west. A ropeless alternative is to move
will be the first formidable hunk of rock on the right (north) down the north ridge for 30ft, then down a low fifth class
side of the stream as the entrance into the canyon narrows. dihedral on the east face to reach the ground after 50ft.
371. The Guardian 5.12d ★★★ 60ft
This pumpy sport route ascends the severely overhanging
southeast face just left of the start for the previous route.
Climb a slab up to the face and try to hang on.
Gear: 4 bolts bolted anchor
FA: Dan McQuade, Bob Horan 1987
372. Army 5.9+ ★ 80ft
Begin behind the small juniper at the base of Ariel. Step up to
the large flake and traverse hard right all the way to a hand
crack at the right (south) edge of the west face. A better start is
to climb Armed Forces to the second bolt (5.10b) and then tra-
verse straight right to the same hand crack. Jam up to a shelf on
the southwest arête and then continue up the short south face
to the top. A direct start is not advised due to poor rock quality.
FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1975
371 370
150'
75'
383
382
381
380
379
378 377
Ridge One
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4. NCAR
373. Armed Forces 5.11b ★★ 65ft 376. Casual Slabs 5.5 ★ 70ft
This is the only bolted route on the lower west face, Begin halfway between Ariel and Gunky on the broad,
located just left of the southwest corner. Scamper up an low-angled wall that forms a notch of sorts between the
easy slab (optional nut placement) to the overhang. Clip summit of Armed Forces and the Like Heaven summit.
a bolt before firing up overhanging pockets, which lead Find a faint crack system with a small tree growing out of
right to another bolt. From here, blast straight up jugs— a flake 20ft up and take it to a tree anchor on the crest.
but save some gas for the finish. Numerous variations exist.
Gear: 4 bolts, nut for start 2-bolt anchor
FA: Dan Hare, Mike O’Donnell 1986 377. Gunky 5.11b ★ 170ft
Begin directly below the large dihedral for Love, at two
incut mail slots in a small overhang. Power up the boul-
dery start to a hand jam, which leads to a ledge. Take a
low-angled left-facing corner for a few feet until it is easy
to traverse hard right on a narrow shelf/ledge with good
holds above. Belay on the other side. Climb straight up
the face and bridge a bombay chimney (hand-sized gear)
in a right-facing dihedral just below the summit. Belay on
gear and descend from the anchor above Love.
FA: Scott Woodruff, Tim Beaman, Brad Gilbert 1975
378. Slot (For Your Arms Only) 5.10a ★ 170ft
Begin 40ft right of the start of Love and 10ft left of
Gunky. Swing up reachy jugs past a fixed pin to a ledge.
Work up the Love dihedral for 30ft to a slightly overhang-
ing section. Move up and right to a ledge (above the
374 traverse on Gunky) and traverse hard right to the base
of a large right-facing dihedral; belay here. Finish in the
372 chimney as for Gunky.
Variation: 5.9 ★ Avoid both the crux start and the long
traverse by beginning further right, directly below the
chimney. Climb straight up the face and merge with the
normal route after 50ft.
379. Love 5.5 ★★★ 150ft
Begin 50ft north of the massive left-facing dihedral which
forms the left side of the Like Heaven tower. Step across
a boulder to begin on jugs over a small overhang. Once
established on the face, traverse right to the dihedral.
Enjoy classic movement and exquisite stone in the corner
373
to the top. Hit the ridge and continue up the arête to the
right to chain anchors on the summit. Rappel the route to
the west with double ropes.
FA: Pat Ament, Mike VanLoon 1967
374. Arms Reduction 5.11b R ★ 65ft 380. Better Than Love 5.5 ★★★ 130ft
Climb to the first bolt on Armed Forces, but when that Climb the opening crux moves of Love to a ledge near the
route traverses right, continue up and slightly left towards left-facing corner. From here, angle up and left on big jugs
a left-facing flake. Battle up the face with technical gear (somewhat reminiscent of those on Winky Woo) to the
to the ridgeline. middle summit of Ridge One. To descend, scramble north
FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1986 down to a tree and rappel 75ft down the west face.
FA: Gerry and Barbara Roach 1972
375. Ariel 5.8 R 70ft
Begin next to a small juniper tree on a ledge that starts 381. Party of One 5.10a ★★ 130ft
30ft up and is 12ft left of the first bolt on Armed Forces. Locate an overhanging offwidth 30ft left of Love. Climb
Mount a large flake slightly right of a tree and then follow jugs up a faint overhanging, left-facing corner to gain the
jug rails hard left until it’s easy to move straight up. Aim crack. Worm up the easier crack, using a combination of
for the crest 20ft right of a large pine tree anchor. chicken-wings and face holds to the summit. Rappel 75ft
FA: Scott Woodruff, Sue Kent 1975 from a tree down and left.
Variation: Ariel Direct 5.10a R 60ft Climb Ariel through FA: Jim Erickson free solo 1978
the start of the juggy leftward trending traverse until a
point directly below a finger crack. Pull a difficult move
over a bulge to gain the crack and continue straight up to
the top.
FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1986
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5. NCAR
RIDGE TWO (SATAN’S SLAB)
(GPS = N39°58.698 W105°17.391) 35:00
Approach: Follow the same approach as for Ridge
One into Skunk Canyon. Ridge Two sits 100ft behind
Ridge One, to the west.
Descent: From the summit, traverse west through the base
of the chimney splitting the summit block and then walk
30ft north along a ledge to hiking territory.
Bouldering: The Rasta Boulder, with a V4 and a V6, sits on
the south side of the creek below Ridge Two.
386. Satan’s Slab 5.8 R ★★★ 950ft
This was the first route put up in Skunk Canyon, as well as
one of the best. It has runouts up to 5.7 but the short crux
is well protected.
P1: Start at the lowest point of the rock and scramble up
a sloping ramp to belay.
P2: Balance up the slab, belaying at a fixed pin 30ft below
a large roof.
P3: Angle up and over the left side of the roof, follow an
undercling crack back right, and then friction up the slab
to belay near a small roof.
P4: Climb around the left side of the second large roof
and ascend the face near a flaring crack to a ledge, where
The Omen merges with this route.
382 P5–7: Another pitch leads to the ridgeline and another
couple pitches reach the final summit tower. Get onto the
east face and scramble to the top.
Gear: 4 fixed pins, SR
FA: Layton Kor, Pat Ament 1963
382. In God We Trust 10c X ★★ 110ft
Move 40ft left of a gully to a five-foot-tall pedestal flake.
Mantel onto the flake and balance up slanting rails to a
nail-drive, deadhead bolt. Run it out to a slanting ledge as
the face angle lessens. Get some gear and finish on the
easy face above. Rap 75ft from a tree to the right.
Gear: 1 bolt, SR
FA: Eric Guokas, Rob Hering 1980
383. Boot Hill 5.8 X ★ 100ft
Start next to a bush, 20ft left of the previous route, under a
lichen-covered face. Climb an unprotected face up and right 390
to a left-facing dihedral underneath the right end of the roof
band. Pull through the right side and top out on the ridgeline
above. Rap from a tree above the gully to the right.
FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff, Jim Michael 1975 389
384. Seventh Inning Stretch 5.11d ★ 100ft
Begin directly behind a pine tree that nearly touches the
rock, 45ft right of Sidereal. Pull on crisp edges through an
overhang to a pocket shaped like an upside-down heart.
Move right behind the tree, then onto easier ground above.
Climb a shallow right-facing flake to the face above.
FA: Rick Accomazzo, Christian Griffith 1981
385. Sidereal 5.10a X ★ 100ft
Start 100ft right of the northwest corner, along the west
face, on a built-up pedestal where the large overhang
shortens in length. Pull through an overhang into a
shallow left-facing nook. Traverse 40ft hard right to join
the preceding route at a right-facing flake. The pins that
protected the start of this route have fallen out. 386 387 388
FA: Brad Gilbert, Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare 1975 Ridge Two
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6. NCAR
387. The Omen 5.7 R ★★★ 900ft 390. 666 5.6 ★★★ 650ft
Climb directly out of Skunk Canyon via the blunt arête im- Move uphill from the previous route to the highest
mediately right of Satan’s Slab for 200ft, or skip this initial (fourth) section. Ascend the left (south) arête of the east-
pitch by hiking up the gully below the east face. Friction face slab to a tree and belay. Continue along the arête
up the slab (staying right of the two roofs on Satan’s Slab) belaying at several ledges along the way.
and negotiate a crux bulge just below the level of the sec- FA: Richard Rossiter solo 1996
ond roof of Satan’s Slab. Continue up the face, merging
with Satan’s Slab at a ledge above its second roof. 391. Wild Turkey 5.8 X ★ 240ft
When approaching from the south, walk 50ft uphill from
388. Purgatory (East Face) 5.6 X ★★★ 750ft the start of the west face and find a rising, left-leaning
This sustained and consistently runout slab begins 50ft ramp/roof system. Start on a large, flat boulder. Climb
right of The Omen at a wide, dark trough that doesn’t up to a roof with a volleyball-sized hueco in it. Pull over
quite touch the ground. Climb to the trough and belay the roof to the right to reach a second overhang (5.8 R).
shortly thereafter. Continue up the unprotected channel Crank past this and onto a low-angled, cobbled face.
and face to the crest of the ridge. Finish on Satan’s Slab. Climb 100ft of unprotected 5.7 to join Satan’s Slab just
Gear: SR, optional #4 Camalot above the second roof. Place some gear and continue
FA: David Bohn, Dave Hahn 1973 up and left to a ledge with a pin and belay. Finish on
Satan’s Slab.
389. Enchanted Devil 5.4 R ★★ 700ft Gear: SR to #3.5 Camalot, optional #4/#5 Camalots for start (marginal)
While the previous three routes are on the lowest and largest FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1976
section of the east face, this route ascends the east face of the
third section. The inobvious start is located directly west of Party 392. Watchmaker Steady 5.13a 70ft
of One on Ridge One. Climb up and left for 50ft to a large hole Commence this climb 40ft, and two sport routes, right of
of sorts near where the separation between sections two and Doric Dihedral. Micro-crimp up the ultra smooth, vertical
three becomes more distinct. Continue up along the southern face to the anchor. Chipped.
edge of the east face to the ridge with house-size boulders. Fin- Gear: 5 bolts 2-bolt anchor
ish on Satan’s Slab or descend through a gully to the northwest. FA: Bob Horan 1987
FA: Gerry Roach 1977
Variation: 5.4 R ★★ Instead of angling left toward the
gully separating section three from two, climb the center
of the face to the ridge.
800-836-4006
www.totalclimbing.com 393
strength promotes confidence™ 392
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