Rachel McCollum Parsons The New School for Design Design + Management Department Senior Thesis 1 Fall Semester 2008 Professor: Robert Rabinovitz

1. REDEFINING THE BEAUTY MARK
bloom
Empowering teens with confidence

2. table of contents
“She walks in Beauty, like the night
Of cloudless climes and starry skies;
And all that’s best of dark and bright
Met in her aspect and her eyes:
Thus mellowed to that tender light
Which Heaven to gaudy day denies.”
-From She Walks In Beauty by Lord Byron

3. SUMMARIZING THE CHAPTERS
-Man’s Manipulation..………………………………..24
-The Math ...….....……………………………………25
-Objects……...……………………………………….26
-Semiotics .…………………………………………..27
-Desire .....…………………………………………..28
8.) The evolution of Beauty
-The Corset…………………………………………..29
-Ancient Beauties……….………………………..30-31
-Foot Binding…………………………………………32
-Skin Bleaching……………………………………….33
-Myanmar...........................................................34-35
-Mursi Women...................................................36-37
-Beauty Icons....................................................38-39
1.) Developing the concept -Cross Cultural Overview...................................40-41
-Descriptionof Topic.......................................................1 9.) Current Solutions (Case studies)
-The Facts.....................................................................2 -Dove: campaign “women for real beauty”.........43
-The Value.....................................................................2 -Nike...................................................................44
2.) Finding the problem -Brazil Fit light yogurt..........................................45
-Thesis statement.........................................................3 -Women’s rights groups......................................46
-Areas of investigation..................................................4 -Social Groups….............................................…47
3.) Understanding the Group 9.) Empirical Research
-Psychological factors..................................................5 -Survey...........................................................48-49
-Physical factors...........................................................5 -Surveys.........................................................50-51
-Statistics.....................................................................6 -Expert opinions............................................51-52
-Parenting…………………………………………………7 10.) Existing Actors
-School Environment……………………………………7 -Introduction of the groups involved...................53
-Social Life…………………………………………….…..8 -Facts about the groups involved.......................54
5.) What is being taught? -The intervention relationships...........................55
-The media.....................................................................9 - All esisting relationships…..............................56
-Describing the problem with photos...........................10 10) Recognizing the gaps
6.) The consequences -Successes/ Failures..........................................57
-Body Image..................................................................11 -Opportunity........................................................58
-Disorders................................................................12-13 11.) Possible Ideas
-Diet pills......................................................................14- -About Bloom.....................................................59
Cosmetics....................................................................15 12. ) Future plan
-New Trends in Beauty Industry………………………..16 -Extensive plan next semester by weeks.......60
-Cosmetic surgery for Heels…………………………….17
-Plastic Surgery………………………………………18-19 Rachel McCollum
7.) Defining Beauty Parsons The New School For Design
-What is Beaty.............................................................20 Department Design and Management
-The History ...........................................................21-22 Senior Thesis part 1
-Nature ........................................................................23 Fall 2008
-Man’sManipulation.……………………………………..24 Robert Rabinovitz

4. DESCRIPTION OF TOPIC
developing the concept
Teens that battle with self-confidence and body dissatis-
faction issues struggle through life changes and in many
cases can result in desperate states such as disorders
and psychological problems. Body image dissatisfaction
is one of the most common reasons that influences low
self-esteem in girls. The major issue here is that these
girls go on living life uncomfortable in their own bodies
creating personal problems and overall dissatisfaction.
This man made struggle is stagnant and destructive; it is
This project is dedicated to young women between the an obstacle that can be difficult to overcome, especially
ages of twelve to eighteen that battle with body and when girls are growing into young women. This cold na-
identify satisfaction. tured problem has been ingrained in the daily lives of
teens creating suffering, social alienation, and a lack of
Its purpose will be to reach out to young girls and em- communication.
power them with knowledge, understanding, and accep-
tance of who they are and how they look. The mission The aim of this project is to redefine the stereotypical
is to communicate to this group in a way they can relate ‘beauty mark’ and allow young girls to bloom and grow
to and is enlighten them of what constitutes beauty. as free spirits.
1

5. THE VALUE
THE FACTS
Why is this issue important?
This is an important issue because girls are literally
weighing their self esteem. We live in a culture that
is obsessed with slimness, yet we are headed toward
obesity. There is a need for a healthier outlook on defin-
ing beauty standards and health overall.
What is the value of this proposal?
The value of Bloom is to help young teen girls who are
vulnerable to self esteem issues and to empower them
with confidence, knowledge about other cultures, and
help them to overcome physical dissatisfaction.
What is the cost if an intervention is not created?
There are groups that have started to take action con-
cerning this issue, such as the new Dove campaign for
-Only 2 % of women around the world describe them-
“Real Women” and the Nike ad “Big Buts and Thunder
selves as beautiful
thighs”. However there is still yet to be something that
speaks directly to young teens in a way that will be ef-
-81 % of women in the U.S. strongly agree “the media
fective. If an intervention is not created, the cost be at
and advertising set an unrealistic standard of beauty
the the every day teens’ expense, as many teens suffer
that most women can’t ever achieve.
from body dissatisfaction, assiduous dieting and overall
dissatisfaction.
-Market data Enterprises, Inc. estimated the size of the
weight loss industry for 2003 at $34,000 billion.
-In a study of almost five hundred high school girls, 81
% them reported that they had dieted at least once or
were unsatisfied with the way they look.
-81% of all 12-18 year-old American girls reported have
dieted more than once in their life.
-90-95 of all anorexia’s is a woman. Women are more
likely to suffer from depression and low self esteem, ac-
companying body image dissatisfaction, then men.
-Over half of the teen girls interviewed for my research
were insecure about something concerning their physi-
cal state
-60% of the girls interviewed for my research were un-
aware of other cultural traditions and customs concern-
ing beauty.
Sources:
2
Packaged facts; a Division of Market Research by Robert Brown and Ruth WashtonAgust 2002
Market Data Enterprises

6. THESIS STATEMENT
finding the problem
Therefore there is a need for a product or ser-
Throughout history in all cultures a common ultimate
vice that will:
goal is to achieve beauty. Just as all people look differ-
ent, all people have a different view on the question,
what is beautiful? Great pain has been suffered for cen-
turies for women to achieve perceived beauty and de-
-INFLUENCE SOCIETAL CHANGE
pending on point of view it can be seen as subjective or
-INCREASE SELF=ESTEEM OF TEENS IN
objective.
THE UNITED STATES
However, today women in western society are exposed -EXPAND ON THE IDEA OF WHAT
to an increasing amount of media that is invading the CONSTITUTES BEAUTY
lives of young girls. The lengths that women are willing
-EMPOWER TEEN’S WITH KNOWLEDGE
to go in order to achieve the unattainable look is be-
ABOUT OTHER CULTURES, TRADITIONS,
coming a growing problem. The unrealistic airbrushed
AND IDEA OF BEAUTY
female body has become the standard for beauty in
- ALLOW YOUNG TEEN WOMEN TO BLOOM
western society. This creates a constant pressure for
young girls to desire the unachievable. Reality versus AS INDIVIDUAL FREE SPIRITS
perception is impacting virtually all teens in the United
States.
3

7. AREAS OF INVESTIGATION
-Investigate the present daily lives of teen age girls from
ages 12-18 in the United States.
-Understand teens lives at home, school, and their so-
cial lives.
-Observe current communication from society, media,
and the fashion industry to teen girls.
-Empirical research on teenage girls such as; observa-
tion, experimentation, and interviews.
-Research all existing relationships and include expert
opinions.
-Investigate the history and evolution of beauty
-Study the other cultural traditions and women’s rights
around the world.
4

8. WHAT TEENS ARE GOING THROUGH
understanding the group
psychological factors physical factors
Physical factors for teens play an important role in
going through self-esteem issues. Adolescence can
often be a challenging time. The reactions that teen-
age girls have to the physical and emotional changes
during puberty often depend on how they feel about
themselves.
“Several large studies have shown that girls aged 8
and 9 are confident, assertive and feel good about
themselves. Surprisingly, these same girls can
emerge at the end of adolescence with a poor sled
image, a narrow view of the future, and less confi-
dence about themselves and their abilities.”
-Clare Young
What controls the development of a healthy self-
esteem in girls?
According to a study, physical appearance was the
most important factor. Many teens felt that they were
worthless if they are not attractive by someone else’s
“ Cultural factors play a role in psychology for teen
standards. Popular culture invades girls with imag-
girls , from parent’s subtle expectations to explicit
es of the ideal female figure, personality, and social
media messages about unattainable appearance
skills, all of which is usually unobtainable.
goals.”
-Timothy Strauman
Teenage girls actually reflect more than boys their age,
with negative psychological consequences. A recent
study found that girls are much more likely to ruminate
on negative things, making them more vulnerable to de-
pression. This study came from the social psychology
lab of Timothy Strauman, who is a professor and chair
of psychology and neuroscience. The study data was
collected from interviews with girls. The study found cor-
relations for discrepancy between real versus ideal self-
image. “Teen girls tend to be perfectionist, self-critical
tendencies combined with rumination becomes a vicious
circle. Rather than coming up with an action-oriented
strategy, girls tend to interpret the negative event as a
personal failure.”-Strauman
Sources: The Duke Today: Social Science Research Institute; written by Dawn Stuart November 14, 2008
5
Teen growth.com http://www.teengrowth.com/index.cfm?action=info_article&ID_article=1274

9. STATISTICS
Nationwide, 12.3% of high school teenage girls had gone
without eating for 24 hours or more to lose weight. Na-
tionwide, 4.5% of students had vomited or taken laxatives
to loose weight or to keep from gaining weight. Overall
“Of the women who classify as underweight, 16%
the prevalence of having vomited or taken laxatives was
considered themselves to be overweight, 58% con-
higher among females at 6.2% than males at 2.8%.
sidered their weight to be about right, and 26%
Thinness has not only come to represent attractiveness,
thought theyr were slightly underweight.”
but has also come to symbolize success, self-control and
higher socioeconomic status.
“Of the women who are average weight, 59% con-
sidered themselves to be overweight, and 58% were
89% of American women want to lose weight. (2007)
currently trying to loose weight. The women who
75% of American women think that they are too fat.
were overweight also reported wanting to be leaner,
90% of all the patients with a specific eating disorder are
81% of them currently trying to loose weight.”
women.
Average model is 13-19 % thinner than her physically
-“Many women suffer from body dissatisfaction, as-
expected weight.
siduous dieting and the relentless pursuit of thinness
22% of women adolescent smokers believe that smok-
has become a normative behavior among women in
ing helps to loose weight.
Western Society.”
95% of the whole American female population has dieted
at least once.
5-10 girls (5-10 million) suffer from an eating disorder
after puberty.
Sources: YRBSS: Youth Risk Behavior Surveillance Sstem: National Center for Chronic Disease Prevention and Health Promotion 6

10. parenting school environment
understanding the group
High school environment is an important part of the teens
social life. Adolescence is a time when youth are experi-
ence big changes in their identities and believes about
them selves. In this critical development stage, one es-
Research has shown that parents play an important role
sential component of an individual’s self concept is self
in the self-esteem issues with teenage girls. According to
esteem.
recent research, supportive parenting is lined to adoles-
One of the primary social realms in which these changes
cent self esteem (Dekovic & Meeus, 1997). Controverly,
occur is in school. Research subjects that this transition
lack of parental support has shown to influence social
point can be particularly difficult for teen girls. Self-es-
behavior and confidence issues. Thus, parental support,
teem has been linked to academic and social outcomes
though narrower in scope, reflects attachment bonds..
and behaviors in many ways. Studies have shown a
The adolescent’s internalized schema of parental sup-
positive relationship between high levels of self-esteem
port during adolescence facilitates the adolescent’s abil-
and academic achievement
ity to safely negotiate autonomy toward healthy, adaptive
As kids move from their younger tween years toward
functioning. The present study was designed to examine
becoming teenagers, their connection with their family
parental support and monitoring as they relate to self-es-
changes significantly. For example, among 12- to 14-year-
teem and behavior problems during adolescence. It was
old girls, a substantially greater proportion (91.2%) says
hypothesized that parental support and monitoring, as
that they enjoy hanging out with friends as opposed to
perceived by the adolescent, would be associated with
spending time with their family (69.7%).
higher self-esteem and less risky behavior.
7 Sources: Journal of Youth and Adolescence, by Janis Paterson Volume 24, Number 3. 2005
The Effects of Change in Self Esteem Across the Transition to High School, by Christopher C. Weiss, 2008

11. social life
Today’s teens want to be absolutely individualistic and
at the same time just like everybody else. This is the
paradox of the adolescent: the need to be part of the
group is as great a force as the desire to become one’s
own person—a contradiction amplified among today’s
teens. On one hand, members of Generation Y are
fiercely independent, wanting to carve their own niche
and make their own statements. On the other hand, they
are still unsure adolescents, transitioning from child-
hood to adulthood and highly dependent upon peers for
support and approval. Younger teens especially need to
be part of the crowd—they seek safety in numbers and
want to fit in, and they tend to seek the approval of their
social group before committing to an attitude or style.
The social life of teen girls is very important and usually
plays a part in affecting self esteem in girls. Girls at this
age are known to form cliques. Often at this age girls are
striving to fit in and be accepted by their peers. If Teens
are not accepted at school it can often affect their self
esteem. Many girls that describe themselves as lonely
often have
-Poor self esteem
-Self-conscious
-Awkward with others
-Harsh self-criticism
All of these issues make children less likely to join in
activities and form friendships, isolating them further
and making it all the more difficult for them to improve
their self esteem. It can become a self-defeating cycle.
Adolescence especially can be a roller coaster ride. So
many aspects of a teen’s life are changing, including her
body, her relationships with friends and family, academic
challenges, and plans for her future.
8
Sources: Family Guide: Keeping youth mentally healthy and Drug Free: By Janis, Walealius, 08
MARKET RESEARCH : TEENS by Packaged Facts, 2007

12. THE MEDIA
what is being taught
The media targets teenage girls and are emphasizing
Advertising in teen magazines and on the television
the ideal of thinness and the concept of beauty. Some
usually glamorizes the skinny model with airbrushing,
of the facts that sum this problem is the fact that average
photo enhancements. Furthermore, they do not repre-
weight and height for models is 5’10 and 110 pounds.
sent the average woman. The average person in the
Then take the average womens’ weight of 5’4 and 145
United States sees around 3,000 ads in magazines, bill
pounds into consideration. This factor helps reveal how
boards, and television every day. Many of the models
this extreme difference is becoming more and more of a
used in these mediums are weighted 23% below the
health issue for teens. The pictures above were taken
average weight. This is sending out the wrong image to
in New York City in the exact same location only months
you teen girls.
apart.
9 Sources: Health Care Industry: by Jennifer S. Parker, Mark J. Benson
Pew/IAdvertising: Teens and Social Medi: by Amanda Lenhart, December 2007

13. Many Teens Become Fashion-Conscious at Early
Age
A substantial minority (40.4%) of girls in the 8- and
9-year-old age group say they “like to keep up with
the latest fashions. Girls in the 12- and 15-year-old
age group are most sensitive to fashion trends among
all 16- to 18-year-olds.
Satisfaction with Looks Declines as Kids Become
Young Teens
The great majority of girls (69.7%) in the 12- to
16-year-old age group say they are “happy about the
way I look.” However, as teens hit the teen years,
their self-confidence declines. Girls in particular are
subject to a loss of confidence in their looks; only
54.2% of 12- to 14-year-old girls say they are happy
about the way they look.
Cosmetics Widely Used by Young Teen Girls
Significant numbers of 12- to 14-year-old girls use
cosmetics, with lipstick and lip gloss used by 86.2%
of girls in this age group. Other important products in-
clude nail polish (used by 82.2% of young teen girls),
eye brow pencil (66.0%), eye shadow (60.6%), and
Today’s teens have grown up in a media-saturated cul-
mascara (53.0%). By the time they reach the age of
ture. Broadcast and cable television present hundreds
12, girls become significant customers for makers of
of viewing choices, as do digital video discs (DVDs) and
personal-care products.
the latest selections from the neighborhood Blockbuster
store. Boomboxes and portable stereos bring radio to
Weight Control Focus of Many Tween and Young
teenage ears in bedrooms, or via headphones on city
Teen Girls
busses and suburban streets. Moreover, thanks to digi-
A majority of 12- to 14-year-olds say that they eat
tal audio streaming, teens can tune in to stations from
anything they like. However, substantial segments of
Osaka to Omaha by clicking a mouse. News can travel
the young teen population report that they try not to
as fast as a cell phone autodialer, and teens are able to
eat too much (40.8%) and that they often try to lose
stay in constant contact with each other through porta-
weight (30.8%). Even teens feel the need to watch
ble phones and pagers. Teens are so active and have so
their intake. Girls are usually more prone to connect-
many media choices, they do not read as much as other
ing food with their emotional state. More than one out
age groups, but they still seek out information from print-
of four (26.6%) of 12- to 14-year-old girls eat some-
ed materials, primarily magazines. Thus, the number of
thing when they are sad, compared to 19.7% of boys.
magazines targeting today’s adolescent is growing, fill-
Girls also are much more likely to feel guilty about
ing newsstands with glossy publications aimed at both
eating.
the general teen market and at niche interest groups
10
Sources: MARKET RESEARCH : TEENS by Packaged Facts, 2007

14. the consequences
“No one ever told me I was pretty when I was a little
girl. All little girls should be told they’re pretty, even
if they aren’t.”
-Marilyn Monroe

15. BODY IMAGE
“Body image is...
-How one sees themselves in the mirror or pictures them- Body Image Problems and Disorders caused by low
self-esteem
selves in their mind.
-How one interprets their own appearance, including
memories, assumptions, and generalizations.
-How one feels about their body, including their height, Anorexia Nervosa
shape, and weight.
-How one senses and controls their body as they move. Bulimia
-How one feels in their own body, not just about their Narcissistic Personality Disorder
body.”
Adonis Complex
“Negative body image is...
Plastic Surgery Addiction
-A distorted perception of one self’s shape, this person
perceives parts of their body unlike they really are.
Substance Abuse
-One is convinced that only other people are attractive
and that there body size or shape us a sign of personal Social Alienation
Stress
failure.
-One feels ashamed, self conscious, and anxious about
Depression
their body.
Body Dysmorphic Disorder
-One feels uncomfortable and awkward in their body.”
11
Sources: Book: The Media and Body Image: Of Lookds Could Kill by Maggie and Barrie Gunter Jan 13, 2005

16. DISORDERS
the consequences
NARCISSISTIC BODY
ANOREXIA BULIMIA PERSONALITY DYSMORPHIC
DISORDER DISORDER
“Bulimia is characterized Narcissistic personality Body Dysmorphic Disor-
“ Anorexia is characterized
by intense fear of weight Disorder is a pattern of der is of imagined ugli-
by starvation dieting, ex-
gain and episodes of diet- traits and behaviors which ness. What individuals
cessive exercising, weight
ing and bingeing, as well signify infatuation with with this disorder see in
below what is considered
as purging of the food one’s self to the exclu- the mirror is a grossly
normal, and an intense
from the body by vomiting sion of all others and the distorted view of what
fear of weight gain.”
or emetic use, fasting, di- egotistic and ruthless pur- they actually look like.
eting, diuretics, diet pills, suit of one’s gratification, Often, these individuals
excessive and compulsive dominance and ambition. will spend hours examin-
exercise.” ing, attempting to conceal
or obsessing over their
perceived flaws.
Sources: Sources: Book: The Media and Body Image: Of Lookds Could Kill by Maggie and Barrie Gunter Jan 13, 2005
12

17. SUBSTANCE SOCIAL STRESS &
PLASTIC
ABUSE ALIENATION DEPRESSION
SURGERY
OBSESSION
Stress has been identi- Social alienation is a Stress is characterized
fied as a leading reason consequence of low self by feeling of tension,
Two-thirds of plastic sur-
for drinking, smoking, and esteem. In many cases frustration, that commonly
gery patients are repeat
using drugs among girls. girls with low self esteem last from a few hours to
patients. Typical plastic
Girls with low self-esteem are more likely to spend days. Depression is more
surgery procedures in-
are more likely to abuse time alone and be left out severe and loner lasting.
clude breast augmenta-
drugs than girls with high of groups
tion, nose jobs, cheek
self-esteem.
implants, liposuction, and
so on. People addicted to
cosmetic surgery demon-
strate a measure of psy-
chological problems.
13

18. A WORLD OF DIET PILLS AND SCALES
the consequences
A fashion for pale, skinny models with dark sunken eyes
and fine blown away hair gave a rise to the term. This
became the look of beauty in the 90s. Models looked ill,
because they were really taking a lot of drugs and it was
though that they might encourage young teens to do the
same.
-President Clinton felt the need to make such a state-
ment, “In the press in recent days, we’ve seen reports
that many of our fashion leaders are now admitting, and
I honor them for doing this, they’re admitting that images
projected in fashion photos have made heroin addiction
seem glamour and sexy and cool, And as some of those
people in those images start to die now, it has become
obvious that you do not need to glamorize addiction to
sell clothes.”
14 Sources: CFDA Panel on the Unhealhty Trend of Skinny Models,June 12, 2008
Do Thin Modles warp girls Body Image, By Nanci Hellmich, USA TODAY

19. COSMETICS
There is a new strange phenomenon in Manhattan
where women are seeking to have long Twiggy like lash-
es. Women are obsessed with getting bigger and bet-
ter lashes. Today the cosmetic industries are seeking
all different types of alternatives. One major trend are
lash-growing serums and extreme, lash-enhancing sur-
gery. The Miracle grow serums, known as RevitaLash,”
it works like a steroid for the lashes. They certainly give
results, as longer, thicker lashes will appear in four to six
weeks when the product is used on a daily basis. This
is becoming a major trend for Hollywood celebrities and
fashion insiders whom are stockpiling on the $150 dol-
lar tubes. However, there remain many health concerns
and unknowns about the product even though women
really do not seem to care about the health consequenc-
es. Another trend is some women are moving towards
full-fled augmentation of the eyelashes.
15
Sources: Vouge Magazine:By Annelise Cohan: Issue September 08

20. NEW TRENDS IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY
the lust for longer lashes
the consequences
Kate Moss Mascara ads are banned after complaints of
Women are moving towards full-fled augmentation of
her lashes being fake. The magazines and TV ads for
the eyelashes. This is a process, which the roots are
Rimmel said that the Magnif eyes mascara produced
transplanted with turf grass. This process of lash surgery
70 per cent more lift, with a unique vertical life brush
is done by inserting tiny synthetic hairs into the roots of
helping the lashes look longer. Miss Moss features in
those natural lashes; they are then glued one by one by a
both the magazine and on TV commercial, and exag-
lash technician. This is something that has hit the beau-
gerated the affect of the mascara. The firm admitted
ty mainstream. This first started for burn victims expe-
the lashes were enhanced for their advertising. Rim-
riencing permanent hair loss from chemotherapy, burns
mel said it had developed existing brush technology by
and radiation treatment. It was only three years ago that
creating a mascara brush that provided greater lash lift
they started to perform the surgery on perfectly healthy
on ten female panelists. It provided a table and a sam-
women. Since then the number of people interested in
ple before and after shot, claiming the results showed
the surgery has quadrupled. The glue extensions need
the average increase in lash lift roof to tip was 74.7
touch ups about every six months. The procedure costs
per cent. Cosmetics are advertised in exaggerating
3,000 per eyelid surgical eyelash extensions are perma-
their effects and we as consumers are intrigued by it.
nent. These lash implants also require a lot of attention
and care, not only does it require touch ups but they need
to be trimmed every so often. If not it can lead to scratch-
es on the cornea and possibly permanent blindness.
16 Sources: http://www.novalash.com/
Mail online: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-485333/Kate-Moss-mascara-ads-banned-complaints-lashes-false.html

21. COSMETIC SURGERY FOR HEELS
For High Heels
This article talks about how women are getting their toes
or small parts of their toes amputated in order to wear
Collagen Injections into the Balls of Feet
high-end heel shoes like Manolo Balahnik and Jimmy
Plumping up of the feet with injections is cheaper and
Choo’s. The title ironically titles “If Shoe Won’t Fit, Fix
less risky than the surgery. For many years women have
the Foot?” by Gardiner Harris Article New York Times
been going to doctors to plump up their lips and fill in
on December 7, 2003. Cosmetic foot surgery to wear
wrinkles, today women are seeking a new alternative in
high heels has been reported in the New York Times
injecting collagen into the balls of the feet to ease the
newspaper, television, and other media. This is becom-
pain and discomfort caused by wearing stilettos. The
ing a popular surgery that is raising a lot of concerns.
collagen injections last about twelve months.
The Process is done by cutting open the toe; some of
the bone is removed causing the tip of the toe to shrink.
However, there are consequences of this procedure be-
cause missing toes or parts of toes can cause more body
weight to be placed on the remaining toes and other
parts of the feet. This causes them to weaken making it
very easy to injury the foot as well as affecting the ability
to jog or run. All negative effects are to be permanent
and may last for the remainder of a person’s lifetime.
17
Sources: Cosmetic Foot Surgery to Wear High Heels: http://www.geocities.com/jjleganeur/cossurg.html
New York Times: by Gardiner Harris Article New York Times on December 7, 2003.

22. PLASTIC SURGERY
the consequences
Surgical cosmetic procedures increased 2 percent,
In addition, more than 5.2 million reconstructive plastic
with more than 1.8 million procedures performed in the
surgery procedures were performed last year. (20)
United States in 2006. The top five surgical procedures
Minimally-invasive cosmetic procedures jumped 8 per-
were breast augmentation (329,000), nose reshap-
cent to more than 9.1 million procedures in 2006. The
ing (307,000), liposuction (303,000), eyelid surgery
top five minimally-invasive procedures were Botox (4.1
(233,000), and tummy tuck (146,000). For the first time,
million), chemical peel (1.1 million), laser hair removal
breast augmentation is the most popular surgical proce-
(887,000), microdermabrasion (817,000), and hyaluronic
dure since the ASPS began collecting statistics in 1992.
acid fillers (778,000). Hyaluronic acid fillers (Restylane,
Reports also show that women represent 90% of all
Hylaform and Hylaform Plus) debuted in the top five,
cosmetic surgery patients, and rates among women
bumping out sclerotherapy (treatment of spider veins)
are up 55% since 2000. Rates among men are up 8%
which had been among the top five minimally-invasive
from 2000, but down 7% from 2005. 11 Million Cosmet-
procedures for the previous three years. Botox continues
ic Plastic Surgery Procedures in 2006 - Up 7% . Re-
to dominate the injectables market, while hyaluronic acid
constructive Plastic Surgery at 5.2 Million Procedures.
fillers like Restylane have increased 59 percent – more
ASPS Reports Nearly 11 million cosmetic plastic sur-
than any other minimally-invasive cosmetic procedure.
gery procedures were performed in the United States
One of the top plastic surgergons, Dr. Guy. states “When
in 2006, up 7 percent from 2005, according to statistics
it comes to the war on aging, Americans are clearly look-
released today by the American Society of Plastic Sur-
ing to injectables to help win the battle.”
geons (ASPS). (20)
18 Sources:Plastic Surgery Research. info: http://www.cosmeticplasticsurgerystatistics.com/statistics.html

23. 19

24. defining beauty
“The most beautiful thing we can experience is the
mysterious. It is the source of all art and science.
He to whom this emotion is a stranger, who can no
longer pause to wonder and at and rapt in awe, is
as good as dead.. His eyes are closed.”
Albert Einstein

25. ?
WHAT IS BEAUTY?
symmetry and the smoothness of the skin to mean that a
person has good genes and without illness or disease.
The notion of beauty comes down to binary data and
interpreted by a mathematical model over 2,000 years
ago by the Greek philosopher and mathematician Py-
thagoras. He observed the connection between math,
geometry, and beauty. He argued that the features of
physical objects are corresponding to the “golden ratio”.
Beauty is a subject experience, it is frequently said that
beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Beauty is a char-
acteristic of a person, place, object, or idea that gives
off a perceptual feeling of pleasure, meaning, or ful-
fillment. It is considered as part of aesthetics, sociol-
ogy, social psychology, and culture. To truly experience
beauty it involves the interpretation of some object or
person as being in balance with harmony and nature.
Recent studies have shown that the secret of beauty can
be understood in terms that it is something that is already
placed in our brains. Experiments have been designed
to measure attractiveness with a strong connection with
symmetry.
Facial recognition is a complex process that computer
programs have been developed to analyze the varia-
tions of such things as the space between eyes, the size
of our noses and the proportions of our facial features.
Scientists have discovered mathematical facial propor-
tions that identify beautiful people. Our brains assess
emotions, personality traits and fertility as well as beauty.
The human brain has special part called the fusiform,
which is located in the back of the head near the spine.
When it is damaged individuals are not able to recognize
other faces that they are familiar with. Studies have re-
vealed that when a person recognizes a face as beautiful
was actually making a judgment about the health and
energy of that certain individual. We interpret facial
Sources:Book source: Real Beauty By Eddy M. Zemach, January 1997
20
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/04/080404122139.htm
Flaunt Magazine: Issue October 2008 http://ablemedia.com/ctcweb/showcase/greenwaldgreece3.

26. THE HISTORY
defining beauty
“Geometry is the right foundation of all
painting.” Albert Durer (1471-1528)
“Geometry is the right foundation of all
painting.” Albert Durer (1471-1528)
“The ancients having taken into consid-
eration the rigorous construction of the
human body elaborated all their works, as “The Parthenon is certainly on of the pur-
especially their holy temples, according to est works of art that man ever made.” Le
these proportions. Corbusier (1887-1964)
Luca Pacioli, in De divina proportione
(1509)
21 Sources: An Allegory of Seeing / © 1974-2003 by Franz Gnaedinger, Zurich, fg(a)seshat.ch, fgn(a)bluemail.ch / www.seshat.ch

27. “Man is the measure of all things.”
Heraclitus (540-480 BC)
22

28. NATURE
defining beauty
Symmetry is everywhere you look in nature. If you look
at plants and animals, you will find that they have sym-
metrical body shapes and patterns. If you divide a leaf
in half, you will often find that the one half has the same
shape as the other half.
Today, this symmetry has been scientifically proven to
be inherently attractive to the human eye. It has been
defined not with proportions, but rather with similarity be-
tween the left and right sides of the face.
By applying the stringent conditions of the scientific
method, researchers now believe symmetry is the an-
swer the Greeks were looking for. The rationale behind
symmetry preference in both humans and animals is that
symmetric individuals have a higher mate-value. Scien-
tists believe that this symmetry is equated with a strong
immune system.
Sources: The beauty of symmetry by Elizabeth Snead ; issue Date:June 1, 2003
23

29. MAN’S MANIPULATION
Humans have manipulated the nature of foods, making
them seem more appealing or beautiful to the eye by
coating fruit with wax, food preservatives, and coloring.
With today’s rapid growth in consumption hormones
have been injected in many of the foods we eat to make
them look bigger and better, however there is a rising
concern about the health of these issues.
24
Sources by Laurence C. Walker, Brian P. Oswald - 2000 - Technology & Engineering

30. THE MATH
defining beauty
The ipod is an object that connects with this theory. It is
In mathematics and arts, two quantities are the golden ra-
the most aesthetically pleasing MP3 player in the world.
tio if the ratio between the sum of those quantities and the
The idea behind the design of the ipod was to create a
larger one is the same as the ratio between the larger one
perfect product. One important aspect of the design is the
and the smaller. The golden ratio is a mathematical con-
basic shape of the device that applies to the golden ratio.
stant, approximately 1.6180339887. During the Renais-
sance, many artists and architects have proportioned their
work to fit the golden ratio believing that this proportion is
aesthetically pleasing. Mathematics has studied the gold-
en ratio because of its unique and interesting properties.
“In the spiral of the Nautilus the whorls continually in-
crease in breadth, and so on in a steady and unchanging
ratio...so that the figure may be conceived as growing
continuously without ever changing its shape the while.”
Sir D’Arcy W. Thomson (1860-1948)
Sources: The Golden Section By Hans Walser, Peter Hilton, Mathematical Association of America
25

31. OBJECTS
Black Raku bowl MT8 Lamp Wil-
Michelangelo’s Sleeping Nymph
17th century helm Wagenfeld
David
Imperical Throne Tea Kettle Christo- Pair of shoes for
of Ch’ien Lung pher Dresser 1880 Oliveti Typewriter
bound feet
Plato tried to pinpoint the role that beauty plays in soci- The main function of design in objects is to make things
ety. He believed that beauty only exists when you com- more beautiful and to solve problems, however we usu-
pare objects to each other. If some aspect of an object is ally associate a design that we like as beautiful. There is
beautiful, the whole object is beautiful. Plato “connected an interrelationship between objects, design, and beauty.
the good to the beautiful” and thought that beauty pro- Design is used by societies to express their values. (M.
vokes pleasure. Csikszentmihalyi and E. Rochberg Halon, The Meaning
of Thing)
This is because the norms of objects are shaped by eco-
nomic and social conditions. The things which people in-
teract are not simply tools for survival, or making survival
easier and more comfortable. Things embody goals,
make skills manifest, and shape the identities of their us-
ers and carry meaning.
Sources: http://cacioppe.com/writings/plato-artistotle-on-beauty-01/
26
Book: Objects of Desire
(M. Csikszentmihalyi and E. Rochberg Halon, The Meaning of Things

32. SEMIOTICS
Barthes:
1. Democracy creates one style of dress for all men
2. One style of dress creates a need for distinction.
3. The arrival of Dandyism: the manner of dress of “dis-
tinction”.
4. The fashion System arises, creating a systematic form
of distinction, killing off Dandyism.
5. The fashion System expands its domain into other
categories of goods and services (Barthes outlines gar-
ment, food, furniture, and architecture.
Barthes also makes an interesting point that con-
flict with societies that don’t have fashion for indi-
viduality. For instance, the ancient Chinese had
defining beauty
clothing by fixed codes. “The absence of fashion cor-
responded to the total stagnate nature of society.”
(Roland Barthes, The language of Fashion pg. 91).
Barthes states that within fashion magazines, there
is always image with the text this is related with what
Semiology is the study of sign process and communica- he calls “real clothing”. Each of these objects is per-
tion of signs and symbols. Semiotics has significant an- ceived through a different fashion. He states that,
thropological dimensions that every cultural phenomenon “in the case of real clothing, it must not be known by
can be studied as communication. Semiology is gener- sight, for its visual image does not reveal all of its in-
ally understood as the science of signs. Semiotic analy- tricacies. It must be known through the mechanical
sis has a broad range of influence from art, literature, process of its production…image clothing is manifest
anthropology, sociology, and the mass media. Semiotic through iconic structures, written garment is manifest
analysis looks for the cultural and psychological patterns in verbal structures.” (Barthes) Furthermore, Barthes is
that underlie language, art, and other cultural expression. arguing that these sign systems do not produce cloth-
Semantics: relation between signs and the things they
refer to, their dentotata
Syntactics: Relation of signs to each other in formal
structures.
Pragmatics: Relation of signs to their impacts on those
who use them.
Semiotics through the object of fashion
Roland Barthes is a semiotic theorist that published ‘The
Fashion system’ this is a theory that is based on the phe-
nomenon of fashion that is tied into a certain economic
gap within societies, characterized by the need to sell an
object (clothing) at a rate before the clothing is worn out.
27 Sources: Book: The Language of Fashion; By Roland Barthes

33. DESIRE
Slogans and iconic commercials become ingrained in our
”Every natural, innate desire in us corresponds to some
collective cultural subconscious Beauty taglines are al-
real object that can satisfy that desire. But there exists
ways uplifting and hopeful, promising added confidence
in us a desire which nothing in time, nothing on earth, no
with the use of the product. (Whether that happens is
creature can satisfy.”
-Peter Kreeft another story.)
The first premise implies a distinction of desires into two “The use value of prestige and beauty, of “acquisitions”
kinds: innate and externally conditioned, or natural and of self adornment, and of play were all placed in the ser-
artificial. We naturally desire things like food, drink, sex, vice of advertising’s basic purpose-to provide effective
sleep, knowledge, friendship and beauty; and we natu- mass media distribution of products.”
rally shun things like starvation, loneliness, ignorance The nature of desire, and not incidentally the nature of
and ugliness. capitalism, required an unquestioning attitude toward the
uses of production. The use o psychological methods,
therefore, attempted to turn the consumer’s critical func-
tions away about a product and toward himself.
Kant suggests that beauty, objects, and desire are all
in connection of lining the good with the concept of pur-
pose. Kant also states that the morally good carries with
the highest interest. “For the good is the object of the will
(A faculty of desire that is determined by reason).
28
Sources: Taken from The Handbook of Christian Apologetics by Peter Kreeft and Ronald Tacelli.1994 Peter Kreeft
BOOK: KANT Allen W. Wood June 2004, Wiley-Blackwell Stuart Ewen, Captains of Consciousness

34. the evolution of beauty
“Women do some rather insane things to achieve mod-
ern standards of beauty. We wear shoes that do terrible
things to our feet. We wear bras that dig into our chest
and push our breasts into strange conformations. We
slide on panty-hose to firm our stomachs, makeup to
hide our imperfections, and hair dye to diminish our
grays. All in the name of beauty
-Maryanne Williamson
( women’s rights activist)

35. THE CORSET
Corset health issues date back to the 1800s when wom-
en willingly abused their bodies in the name of fashion.
But how did this all come about? What sort of health is-
sues did ladies endure by wearing corsets? For some
time in the nineteenth century, in America a definition
of beauty included corsets, making women’s waists as
small as possible. This process was not only painful for
women but also resulted in broken ribs and damaged
internal organs.(19)
Though commonly associated with Victorian upper-class
matrons, corsets originated much earlier, in the 16th cen-
tury, and by the 19th had become a hallmark of fashion
for women of nearly all classes. Practically compulsory
for women of aristocratic birth, corsets were also adopt-
ed by working women who aspired toward similar ideals
of fashion. One popular line of mass-produced corsets
in the 1880s was the “Pretty Housemaid” model. In the
name of fashion, tightlacing became commonplace. The
goal was to reshape a female’s body to conform to stan-
dards of fashion.(19) For many ladies, a 16- to 17-inch
waist was desirable and was accomplished by lac-
ing their corsets tighter and tighter until their rib
cages became deformed. Health problems naturally
followed. One such problem was reduction of lung
volume which led to breathing problems.
Because the corsets were so tight, women were only
able to fill the tops of their lungs with air. This shallow
breathing resulted in the bottom part of the lungs being
filled with mucus. This was characterized by a persistent
cough, the body’s way of ridding the lungs of foreign mat-
ter. This may have been why doctors believed corsets
were a cause of tuberculosis. Women were also known
to faint because of the reduced lung function. This made
smelling salts a typical household item. Another corset
health issue was the compression of the internal organs,
including: Liver, Stomach, Bladder, and Intestines.
29
Sources: Period Corsets http//www.periodcorsets.com/

36. ANCIENT BEAUTIES
Nefertiti Venus De Milo
the evolution of beauty
Venus De Milo (Ancient Greece): The most fa-
Nerfertiti (Ancient Egypt): The Eyptian queen and wife
mous dipiction of the Greek, later Roman, godess of
of Pharaoh Amenhotep IV, and mother-in-law of the Pha-
beauty,earthly love, and joy. Found at Milo 130-120
raoh Tutankhamun. Her name translates to the “beauti-
BC, now located at the Musee du Louvre, Paris.
ful one is come”. She was made famous by her painted
limestone bust now in Berlin’s Egyptian Museum. The
artifact remains to be an international point of crisis be-
tween Egypt and Germany. The 3,000 year old bust is
being visitede by thousands of people everyday.
30 Sources: http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/nefertiti.htm
http://www.theoi.com/Gallery/S10.2.html

37. Hainan
A Li woman
“Dressed for a celebration, a Li woman of Hainan
Island in the South China Sea gives onlookers an
earful. Her five-pound brass earrings, a mark of
high status, were typically worn swung up into the
hair as headgear. This picture was published in
the September 1938 article of Nation Geographic
about her people, the largest ethnic minority on
Hainan”.
-Photographed by: Jason Kallien
31
Sources: Magazine: National Geographic: By James Korald pg. 47 Issue January 05

38. FOOT BINDING
The practice, now illegal, required breaking the
the evolution of beauty
arch of the foot, then constricting it, which result-
ed in a stylized, mincing gait. It also set social
constraints. “If girls feet are not bound, they go
here and there with unfitting associates.
This act, foot binding, was an attempt to stop the
growth of the feet. Foot binding is a bizarre and
terrible custom, yet it is hard to understand ex-
actly what foot binding was like with the modern
outlook we have today. The reason for women
binding their feet went deeper than fashion and
reflected the role of women in Chinese society.
It was necessary then in China for a woman to
have bound feet in order to achieve a good life.
The exact way foot binding started is not fully
known. Several legends have been passed down
on how foot binding originally started. The most
common legend is about the Chinese prince Li
Yu in the Sung dynasty (AD 960-1280) (Nadine)
The prince’s concubine, Yao Niang walked so
gracefully it appeared as if she was “skimming
The origin of foot binding may not be clear; how-
over the top of golden lilies”. To follow that, the
ever the powerful affects foot binding left are ap-
“lily footed” woman became a model for China.
parent.
One billion women performed this for nearly a
thousand years. (6)
32 Sources: The Shoe man by Joung Youn 2003
http://www.romanization.com

39. SKIN BLEACHING
All eight brands came from China or Taiwan,
prompting Lam to predict this could be “the tip
of the iceberg” because the creams have been
available for several years and widely used.
When Lam phoned one Chinese supplier, he
was told: “What is wrong with a little mercury in
the cream, as long as it can make ladies beauti-
ful. ”Mad-as-a hatter While mercury was con-
sidered a strong and effective whitening agent
ten to twenty years ago, in high doses it is lethal
It is so toxic and dangerous that when workers
used mercury to make felt hats in the 1800s,
the psychiatric changes it triggered, led ob-
servers to call them as “mad-as-a-hatter.”
“Mercury is very harmful to the central nervous
system and kidney, particularly the developing
brain of a foetus and young child “ says Lam.
“It can lead to convulsions, coma and death.”
(More on mercury poisonings as a skin bleach-
er for years, it was only when a smattering of
As cosmetic giants around the world jump onto
toxic cream cases broke out during the 1990s
this lucrative Asian obsession, women in the re-
in Australia, America and Saudi Arabia that
gion face an enormous array of ways to bright-
mercury was put under the spotlight, spark-
en, whiten, lighten and illuminate their yellow-
ing calls to boost labeling and purity require-
toned skins. But as companies pump money
ments. The more effective it is, the less safe
into new skin technology -- touting heat-sealed
it is, and with a strong product the reaction
capsules and triple-action formulas -- they are
will be expected to be more,” says Dr. Wendy
being joined by less scrupulous players. In De-
Wong Hok-wai, a Hong Kong dermatologist.
cember 2000, Lam and Prince of Wales Hospi-
Mercury is very harmful to the central nervous
tal doctor Michael Chan tested 36 creams made
system and kidney, particularly the developing
by cosmetic makers across the world.(7) They
brain of a foetus and young child “ says Lam.
found eight creams exceeded the U.S. Food and
“It can lead to convulsions, coma and death.”
Drug Administration safety limits for mercury.
33
Sources: Skin Deep: Dying to be White May 15, 2002 by Marianne Bray
http://edition.cnn.com/2002/WORLD/asiapcf/east/05/13/asia.whitening/

40. MYANMAR
the evolution of beauty
The Karenni women place gold rings around Now it is the women themselves who have be-
their necks as a symbol of beauty. Short coils are come a valuable commodity, both for their own
applied first to girls about 5 years of age, or even communities and for the Thai officials and tour
as young as 3. Every five years or so, the coil is operators however they are being exploited and
unwound and replaced by a longer and heavier are being prevented to leave the village. The
one. Parents make the decision of whether or long-necked women are an unprecedented
not their girls should wear the coils and almost source of income, supporting their families and
all of the village girls wear them. their villages.
34 Sources: The Pa Dong Village of Nai Soi Long-Necked Women May 14, 2001
http://www.djparadisetour.com/MaeHongSon/ePadong.html

41. NECK RINGS
A 5-year-old wears 3 kilogram (6.2 pounds) of
coiled brass. Then, when she is about seven years
old, she’ll wear 4 kilograms (8.3 pounds). This will
slowly be increased over the years to 5 kilograms.
The rising spiral of brass is borne by a female’s
collarbone and shoulders. One coil is long
enough to encircle her throat several times with
a polished, industrial-strength solid brass rod,
about one-third of an inch in diameter. The
girl will remain coiled for the rest of her life.
This is equivelent to a young western girl packing around
They are also limited to how far they look down 6 pounds of books on her back. This does not include
that the youn Karenni girls that are not able to tak e them
or sideways because their jaw bone is kept
off until they are replaced with heaver ones. She will
upturned, rigid and extended. To alleviate the
eventually carry over ten pounds of brass on her neck.
metal’s eternal, painful rubbing against their
skin and bones, most Padaung females insert a
thick, handkerchief-sized cloth under their chin’s
jaw bone. But endlessly irritated skin rubs raw,
producing scabs and darkened, chaffed rings on
the throat and shoulders.
35
Sources: The Karenna State: Author not available, KARENNI STATE. The Columbia
Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition 2008 Copyright 2008 Columbia University Press

42. MURSI WOMEN
the evolution of beauty
36 Sources: THE MURSI WOMEN: Jean-Pierre Dutilleux (WHERE BEAUTY COMES FROM THE HEART)
http://www.jpdutilleux.com/thework/mursai/index.html

43. LIP ORNAMENTS
The Mursi women wear large lip ornaments made
of clay or wood. They share this unusual custom
with the Kayapo natives of the Brazilian Amazon.
Secluded tribes separated by thousands of miles,
share this extremely rare tradition. The reason
is still one of the many intriguing mysteries of
lower lip, the clay plate has become the defining
the tribal world. At puberty, the girl’s bottom lip is
image and symbol of beauty of the Mursi woman.
pierced and a small wooden or clay plate is insert-
The process involves piercing a hole in the bottom
ed. They gradually increase the size of the plate,
lip, stretching it out and gradually increasing the
year by year, until it reaches a dramatic 10 inch-
size of the lip plate. The Mursi see it as a symbol
es in diameter. The size of the disk sets the price
of a woman’s beauty, pride and sexual maturity.
of the young woman’s dowry. (10) The larger the
When the lip isn’t spooled around the plate, it dan-
disk, the more cattle her family will receive from
gles below the chin like Buddha’s ear lobes.(10)
the groom’s family. As many as 50 heads of cattle
For the foreigner who’s just been introduced to this
will be paid to marry the girl with the largest disk.
unusual cultural practice, it’s hard to imagine how
In a tiny village in southern Ethiopia, some-
the women can comfortably eat, drink or speak.
where in the Lower Omo Valley’s Mago Na-
tional Park, a group of Mursi women prepare
for a day of visitors. Though they’re cattle herd-
ers by tradition, tourism is now their main form
of income. They baste themselves with white
body paint, designing lines with the scratch of
a fingernail. Their arms are adorned with jin-
gling brass bracelets, their mouths are wrapped
around coaster-sized lip plates. Worn in the
37

44. BEAUTY ICONS
the evolution of beauty
Audrey Hepburn was an actress, philanthropist, and known
CHANEL NO, 5 (FRENCH)
for ber beauty. Born on May 4, 1929, in Brussels, Belgium.
-Signature perfume of the house of Chanel.
, Audrey Hepburn was known for her beauty, elegance, and
-Is seen as the ultimate luxury perfume through de-
grace. Often imitated, she remains one of Hollywood’s great-
cades.
est style icons
-Print ads include names Estella Warren and Nicole
Kidman.
-When asked what she wore to bed, Marilyn Monroe
famously replied: “Only a few drops of No. 5…”-Today
Chanel No. 5 sells a bottle every 30 seconds.
38 Sources: http://marilynmonroepages.com/facts.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audrey_Hepburn

45. -a Brazilian mode, actress, and spokeswoman. Kate Moss (born January 16, 1974), is an English
-became the most expensive model in the world shortly model. Known as one of the most iconic models in the
after her arrival to the fashion scene. world[citation needed], she has appeared on over 300
-was born 1980, 5’11” tall, and is seen as a ;flawed beau- magazine covers [2]. She is known for her tiny frame,
ty because of her slightly larger nose. uncommon modeling height for a fashion model, and
-been the leading model for Versace, Louis Vuitton, Mis- appearing in many advertising campaigns. She is also
soni, Armani, Dior, Dolce&Gabbana, and Victoria’s Se- notorious for her high-profile relationships and party life-
cret. Reportedly earns 7,000 per hour with modeling. style. She came 2nd on the Forbes top 15 richest super-
models list, estimated to earn 9m in one year.
39
Sources: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gisele_B%C3%BCndchen
http://www.netglimse.com/celebs/bio/kate_moss.shtml