Knitting Needles Explained

TECHNOLOGY
KNITTING

Knitting Needles - An Overview

•Presented By:
•Rajeev Sharan
•Roll No. – 23
•Apparel Production (4th- SEM)
•DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Types of Knitting Needles

1. Manual Knitting Needles
2. Needles of Knitting Machines

Knitting Needles- An Overview RAJEEV SHARAN 2
KNITTING TECHNOLOGY DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Knitting Needles or Knitting Pins
(Manual Knitting)

A tool to produce knitted fabrics.

•Also been called knitting sticks, knitting pins,
knitting wires, or simply wires or rods.
•Length and thickness of the needles vary
depending on the type of yarn used (e.g., fine or
thick) and the type of fabric to be produced (e.g.,
firm or loose).

Features of Knitting needles

•a long shaft
•tapered at their end,
•not nearly as sharp as
sewing needles.


Functions of features of knitting needles

Long Shaft Tapered Ends
• holds the active • use to form new stitches.
(unsecured) stitches of • inserting the tapered end
the fabric, to prevent through an active stitch, catching
them from unravelling. a loop of fresh yarn and drawing
it through the stitch; this secures
the initial stitch and forms a new
active stitch in its place

5
Knitting Needles- An Overview RAJEEV SHARAN

The needle may be passed between active stitches
being held on another needle, or indeed through
inactive stitches that have been knit previously.

Features describing size of needles
Diameter of the needle Length of the needle
• The size of the new stitch is • The length of a needle
determined in large part by the determines how many stitches it
diameter of the knitting needle can hold at once
used to form it, because that • for example, very large projects
affects the length of the yarn- such as a shawl with hundreds
loop drawn through the previous of stitches might require a long
stitch. needle
• Thus, large stitches can be made
with large needles, whereas fine
knitting requires fine needles


Straight Needle
•most widely recognized form of knitting needle.
•probably invented in the mid 19th century.
•narrowed nearly to a point at one end and capped at the
other with a knob or head (like the head of a straight pin).
•used almost exclusively for knitting flat two-dimensional
fabrics like rectangles and squares.
•The needles are popular because the knob at the end of
each needle prevents the stitches from inadvertently falling
off the needles.


Different Types Of Needles
Single-point Needles

Double-point or Double-
Pointed Needles

Circular Needles

Cable Stitch Needles



•the most common knitting needles.
•used for making flat knit pieces in a wide variety of patterns.
•consist of a long, pointed shaft, with a cap on which their size
is usually indicated.
•these knitting needles are straight and rigid.
•the knitting of new stitches occurs only at the tapered ends.
•Most are cylindrical, but few companies offers a “square”
version, which it claims are useful for people with stiff hands.



•usually 10-16 inches long but, due to the compressibility of
knitted fabrics, may be used to knit pieces significantly
wider.
•their diameter, which ranges from below 2 mm to 25 mm
(roughly 1 inch).
•The diameter affects the size of stitches, which affects the
gauge of the knitting and the elasticity of the fabric.
•a simple way to change gauge is to use different needles,
which is the basis of uneven knitting.



•made of aluminium, steel, plastic, or various woods such as
bamboo, rosewood, ebony, or birch.
•Different materials have different frictions and grip the yarn
differently; slick needles such as metallic needles are useful for
swift knitting, whereas rougher needles such as bamboo are less
prone to dropping stitches.
•needles with lighted tips have been sold to allow knitters to
knit in the dark.


Knitting needles in a variety of sizes (US 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13 and 15 from the
bottom). The US size 7 and 15 needles are bamboo and wood, respectively, whereas
the others are aluminium. Having a smoother surface, metal needles tend to produce
faster knitting but stitches are more likely to slide off by accident


Double-point or Double-Pointed
Needles

•tapered at both ends, which allows them to be knit from
either end.
•somewhat shorter (typically 7 inches).
•used in sets of at least four to create seamless circular items,
like tube socks, sleeves, or mittens.
•usually one needle is active while the others hold the
remaining active stitches.


Double-point or Double-Pointed
Needles
•can also be used for flat items.
•the number of needles required depends on the circumference
of the item being made.
•In knitting instructions, these needles are often indicated as
“dp”.
•Made of similar materials to single-point needles.


Double-pointed knitting needles usually come in sets
of four (US size 1, on right) or five (US size 8, on left).


Circular Needles

•long, flexible double-pointed needles.
•the two tapered ends are rigid and straight.
•typically 5 inches (130 mm) long tapered ends.
•the two ends are connected by a flexible strand that allows the
two ends to be brought together.
•needles are typically 24-60 inches long.
•usually used singly or in pairs


Circular Needles
•used for seamless circular items that are too large to work
comfortably on double-point needles.
•they can also be used for very large flat items, such as afghans.
•because the circumference of the piece being knit must be at
least 2 inches (5.08 cm) larger than the length of circular needles,
this will determine when to choose each needle type.
•the width of the knitted piece may be significantly longer than the
length of the circular needle.
•Made of flexible nylon “cord” with metal, plastic, or wooden
tips

Circular knitting needles in three different lengths and sizes. The tips of the
outermost, longest one is US size 5 and chrome-plated for speed, whereas
the innermost tips are wood and US size 15; the middle red metal tips are
US size 9

Circular Needles

•Special kits are available that allow circular needles of various
lengths and diameters to be made as needed;
•rigid ends of various diameters may be screwed into strands of
various lengths.
•The ability to work from either end of one needle is convenient
in several types of knitting, such as slip-stitch versions of double
knitting.
•Some manufacturers sell the two needles and the joining length
of nylon separately


Interchangeable circular knitting needle system


Circular Needles
•the advantages of using circular needles are
•the weight of the fabric is more evenly distributed and therefore, less taxing on
the arms and wrists of the knitter,
•there is more manoeuvrability of the fabric and needles without fear of the
stitches falling off the needles, an occasional occurrence when using double-
pointed needles.
•A technique that has become popular for knitting tubes is using
two circular needles, instead of four or five double-pointed
needles.
•This technique has been evolved further, and now, many people knit two socks,
sleeves, or matching items at the same time on circular needles. It is said that this
technique helps alleviate difficulties when duplicating the second of a matching
pair of items.


Circular Needle- A single needle or a
pair
•Different authorities disagree on whether the needles should be
thought of as a single needle or pair.
•Mary Thomas (1938) and June Hemmons Hiatt (1988) both imply
that a circular needle (note the singular) consists of a pair needles (note
the plural).
•Richard Rutt (2003), however, calls a circular needle (note the
singular) a double-pointed needle (singular again), so considers it a
single needle.
•In any case, the two ends are used exactly like two needles, in the
sense that the knitter holds one in each hand and knits as if having
two.

Cable Stitch Needles
•only knitting needles with a built-in bend, specially designed to
keep the cable from slipping off.
•There are two designs
•One looks like a small hill in the middle of a long highway and is
sometimes called a straight cable stitch needle or a cable stitch holder.
•The other type looks like a double-point needle with one end curved
under, and always seems to be called a cable stitch needle.
•Each of these comes in a larger and smaller size, sometimes
referred to as bulky and regular.
•They also often come in packs of three, with a bulky and regular
needle and one “holder.”

Two different styles of cable needles


Needle materials

•Modern knitting needles
•aluminium,
Benefits: Easily available in mainstream craft shops; inexpensive;
smooth surface allows you to knit very quickly with minimum
resistance.
Drawbacks: They make clickety-clack sounds while you knit, making it
difficult to knit unobtrusively in public; surface can scratch and
develop rust over time; the metal can feel cool and unyielding, which
some knitters -- especially those with arthritis or carpal-tunnel
syndrome -- find unpleasant.


Needle materials

•wood,
Benefits: Lightweight, quiet, feel warm in your hands; slightly rough
surface adds friction when knitting so you work more slowly and
precisely, which is good for beginners or advanced knitters working on
complex patterns.
Drawbacks: Can be harder to locate and relatively pricey, especially
those made of more rare woods; may break or splinter; some people
don't like the slower knitting experience.


Needle materials

•bamboo,
Benefits: Similar to wood needles, these are also lightweight and
quiet; they feel warm in your hands and develop a beautiful patina
over time; they are easily available in most shops; surface friction
also slows your knitting speed slightly.
Drawbacks: Similar to wood needles, these can break or splinter at
the tips, and many people don't enjoy the stronger grip these have on
yarns. plastic,


Needle materials
•Casein
Benefits: Ideal for knitters seeking a total organic experience, these
are made of a natural, nontoxic milk protein; they are available in a
full range of colors including bright pearlescent pastels and classic
tortoise-shell patterns; they feel warm in your hands; their surface is
smoother than wood but not quite as slippery as aluminium; they
bend and flex gently and offer a quiet knitting experience.
Drawbacks: Even though they are made of totally organic
materials, Swallow casein needles can look plastic and artificial;
because they are only manufactured by one company, availability
can be limited.


Needle materials
•Bryspun
Benefits: Bryspun flexible knitting needles are made of a special plastic
and are very popular for knitters with arthritis; they are warm and
smooth to the touch.
Drawbacks: Many people find their grey color and plastic texture too
bland; not every yarn shop carries them, so you may have to order online.
•Pony Pearls
Benefits: Made of cellulose acetate, these needles come in a wide range of
bright, cheerful colours and have a moderately smooth surface for quick
knitting.
Drawbacks: Sizes 0-8 are reinforced with steel wire, which can jangle
around inside the needle while you're using it -- I found this quite
distracting; they aren't as flexible as Bryspun but have more visual
appeal.

Needle materials
•Nickel and nickel-plated aluminium
Benefits: The nickel plating makes the surface even smoother than
aluminium, which translates into speedy knitting; extremely lightweight.
Drawbacks: Can be expensive; they make noise while knitting; and, as
with standard aluminium, the unyielding nature of the metal can be
bothersome for people with arthritis or sensitive hands.
•Walnut
•Ebony
•Plastic
•Steel and
•Glass

Needle materials

•antique knitting needles
•tortoiseshell,
•ivory and
•walrus tusks.
•these materials are now banned due to their impact on
endangered species,
•needles made from them are virtually impossible to find.


Needles of Knitting Machines
•Heart of any knitting machine.
•The main element of intermeshing of the loops.
•The quality of knitted fabric largely dependent on
the effectiveness and accuracy of the loop forming
element.
•Small variations in the production of needles can
lead to irregular fabric.


Needles of Knitting Machines

•The surface of needles should be highly polished
allowing the yarn and the loop to slide freely.
•The needle must have high strength and
toughnessto give durability.
•A typical needle must perform several knitting
actions without any fault.


Bearded Needles
•Simplest and cheapest.
•Requires an additional element
to close the beard during knitting.
•Limiting productivity
•A knitting section occupies a
considerable amount of space.
•Individual loop formation has
to be achieved by a loop forming
element. This leads to a more
complicated

Bearded Needles
•Invented by Rev. William Lee in 1859.
•Can be set vertically or horizontally.
•Has the disadvantage of requiring a
pressing edge to close the bearded hook.
•Presser may be in the form of a bar, blade,
verge or wheel.
•Finer in Cross Section, therefore, more
needles in unit space. Hence Finer Gauge
(60 needles/inch) can be achieved.


Bearded Needles

•Less expensive.
•High wear and break easily.
•Strain on yarn is less.
•No possibility of Fluff or Lint
accumulation on needle.
•Used by most of warp knitting
machines.


Bearded Needles
A bearded needle shown with the open and
closed positions of the beard.
The main parts of the bearded needle.
•Stem
•Around which the needle loop is formed.
•Used with jack sinkers to form new loops
•Head
•Where the stem is turned into a hook to
draw the new loop through the old loop.


Bearded Needles
•Beard
•The curved continuation of the hook that is
used to separate the trapped new loop inside
from the old loop as it slides off the needle
beard.
•Eye or Groove
•Cut in the stem to receive the pointed tip of the
beard when it is pressed, thus enclosing the new
loop.
•Shank
•Bent for individual location in the machine or
cast with other in a metal „lead‟
•Used to attach the needle to the frame

Knitting action of Bearded
Needles


Knitting action of Bearded
Needles
•The needle requires a pressing edge to close the bearded hook
and enclosing the new loop.
•Presser may be in the form of a bar, blade, verge or wheel,
with either the presser or the needle remaining stationary whilst
the other element move towards it.
•Individual loop formation has to be achieved by a loop
forming element. This leads to a more complicated knitting
action but also provides for a more gentle and careful loop
formation.

Latch Needles
•Self-acting or loop-controlled needle.
•Also termed as „automatic needle‟.
•Most widely used needle in weft knitting.
•Ideally suited for use with computer
controlled electronic selection devices.
•Longer stroke in the cycle of knitting
action.
•Takes a longer time to knit a loop and hence
the knitting machine is generally found lower.
•Expensive, because of the assembly of the
needle and the latch.

Latch Needles- Features
•The hook, which draws and retains
the new loop.
•The slot or saw cut, which receives
the latch-blade.

•The cheeks or slot-walls, which are
either punched or riveted to the
latch blade


•The rivet, which may be plain or
threaded. This has been dispensed
with on most plate metal needles, by
pinching in the slot walls to retain
the latch blade.

•The latch blade, which
locates the latch in the
needle.

•The latch spoon, an
extension of the blade.
•Bridges the gap
between the hook and
the stem covering the
hook when closed.


•The stem, which carries the loop in the
clearing or rest position.
•The tail, which is an extension below
the butt, giving additional support to
the needle and keeping the needle in its
trick.
•The butt, which enables the needle to
be reciprocated when contacted by cam
profiles on either side of it, forming a
track.


Latch Needles- Knitting action



Knocking
Yarn
over &
The rest Latch Clearing feeding &
loop
position opening height latch
length
closing
formation


•The rest position:
•The head of needle hook is level with the top of the verge of the
trick.
•The loop formed at the previous feeder is in the closed hook.
•It is prevented from rising as the needle rises, by holding-down
sinkers or web holders that move forward between the needles to
hold down the sinker loops.
•Latch opening
•As the needle butt passes up the incline of the clearing cams,the
old loop, which is held down by the sinker, slides inside the hook
and contacts the latch, turning and opening it.

•Clearing height
•When the needle reaches the top of the cam, the old loop, the loop is
cleared from the hook and latch spoon on to the stem the feeder guide,
at this point as a guard to prevent the latch from closing the empty
hook.
•Yarn feeding & latch closing
•The needle starts to descend the stitch cam so that its latch is below
the verge, with the old loop moving under it.
•At this point the new yarn is fed through a hole in the feeder guide to
descending the needle hook, as there is no danger of the yarn being fed
below the latch.
•The old loop contacts the underside of the latch, causing it to close on
the hook.


•Knocking-over & loop length formation.
•As the head of the needle descends below the loop of the trick,
the old loop slides off the needle and the new loop is drawn
through it.
•The continued descent of the needle draws the loop length,
which is approximately twice the distance the head of the needle
descends, below the surface of the sinker or trick-plate supporting
the sinker loop.
•The distance is determined by the depth setting of the stitch
cam, which can be adjusted.


Latch Needles- Advantages
•Major advantage of being self-acting or loop-
controlled, so that individual movement and
control of the needle enables stitch selection to be
achieved.
•Ideally suited foe use with computer-controlled
electronic selection devices.
•Latch needles can operate at any angle but
often require a latch-guard or latch-opening
facilities.
•Variation of the height of the vertical
reciprocation of a latch needle at a feeder can
produce either missing, tucking or knitting and
depth of descent normally determines loop-
length.

Latch Needles- Disadvantages

•Latch needles are thick and rigid.
•Needle deflection is difficult.
•It imposes a certain strain on yarn.
•There is also a possibility of fluff or lint
accumulation on the latch due to rubbing action of
the yarn on the needle.


comparison

•Require another element to close •Self acting
the hook.
•Thin & flexible. •Thick & rigid
•Usually mounted on finer gauge. •Usually mounted on the coarser
gauge .
•It wears &breaks easily. •Strong in nature.
•No strain on the yarn. •Impose certain strain on yarn.
•It makes a shorter stroke in the •It makes a longer stroke in the
knitting cycle. knitting cycle.


comparison

•Stitches are tight and minimum •Stitches are loose.
loop robbing.
•No fly and fluff generation. •Due to rubbing, fly and fluff
generation is high.
•Time required to knit the loop is •Takes longer time to knit the
less. loop.
•The speed of the machine is high. •The speed of the machine is less.


Compound Needles
•Compound needles consist of two
separately-controlled parts- the open hook
and the sliding closing element (tongue,
latch, piston, plunger).
•It is most popular in warp knitting
machines.
•Strain is not put on the yarn.
•Both members of compound needle have a
straight, thus knitting speed can be
increased.
•These are very expensive to manufacture

Compound Needles
•Compound needles are also consist of hallow
steel tube of finer gauge in a which a hook
closing element, which is also a steel tube of
fine gauge, is inserted.


comparison

•Self acting needles. •Consist of two separately-
controlled parts.
•Less expensive. •Very expensive.
•Preferred for weft knitting. •Preferred for warp knitting.
•Vibration is more. •Short, smooth simple harmonic
movement, so there is less
vibration.
•Yarns are under stress. •No stress on yarns.


comparison

•The vertical clearing height is •The vertical clearing height is
very good. not so good.
•Latch needle produces the long •The needle can knit tight,
and narrow loops. uniform stitches that tend to be
rounder.
•Latch needles are relatively •Because of its slim construction
thick. and short hook fine warp knitted
are possible.
•Speed is relatively less. •Can work at high speeds.

Common points
•The three needles considered above, while differing in design ,
have the following common points:
•Hook- to take & hold newly fed yarn.
•Closing mechanism- to allow the held loop to leave the needle.
•Stem
•Control butt- for individual or collective movement.


Knitting Needles Explained

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