2. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The presentation of “SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT” was possible due to the
direction & help rendered by couple of persons. We take pleasure to remember them.
We acknowledge Ms.Jonalee Bajpai ,Course Coordinator B.F.Tech, NIFT, Bangalore.
Our profound thanks & indebted gratitude for our mentor Ms. Sweta Jain for her
guidance & suggestions given at every stage while bringing out this report.
First of all, we would like to thank Mr. Guruprasad, Learning & Development officer, LT
Karle, who provided us the brilliant opportunity to be internee at the organisation
We also extend a special thanks to Mr. Vijeindra Joshi, the Assistant General Manager
(and my mentor) for taking out time from his busy schedule to provide us with valuable
guidance throughout this training period.
Further, We would like to extend our regards to Mr.Vijay and Mr.Manjesh, the
Industrial Engineers for providing us with all the necessary information reviews and
remarks at all stages of the internship.We would also like to thank Mr. Santhosh, the
cutting in-charge and Mr.Rudresh,the QA Head of cutting room for their immense
cooperation during our study in the cutting room.
Our sincere thanks to all the managers of various departments for guiding us throughout
the internship.
We would also like to thank all staff and workers of LTK -2, for keeping patience and
sharing their valuable experience with us.
Anoop Singh
&
Rajeev Sharan
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 2 NIFT, BANGALORE
3. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIP
National Institute of Fashion Technology, a premier institute in South-east Asia is
responsible for human resource development for apparel industry in India. Apparel
Production department is imparting education in crucial areas of technology in garment
manufacturing. After completing three years of apparel production, a techno managerial
under graduate degree program at National Institute of Fashion Technology, the students
are exposed to a eight week industry internship with the leading garment manufacturing
organizations as a part of the course curriculum
The objective of this industry internship is aimed towards blending the classroom study
with industry application. This internship helps the students to analyze the day to day
activities along with practical application of different principles.
The objectives of internship is firstly to gain practical exposure and secondly application
of knowledge in real life projects.
This internship also helps us to learn and improve our interpersonal communication skills
with colleagues, peer group and workers.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 3 NIFT, BANGALORE
4. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Table of Contents
Sl No Page no
1. COMPANY PROFILE 5
2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 23
3. SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT 38
4. SEWING SECTION 48
5. FINISHING SECTION 58
6. QUALITY ASSURANCE 64
7. MATERIALS DEPARTMENT 67
8. IE DEPARTMENT 83
9. CPQAD 108
10 PLANNING 115
11 HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT 118
12 MERCHANDISING 123
ROLE OF PPM
13. IT DEPARTMENT 125
14. WASHING DEPARTMENT 129
15. SYSTEM & AUDIT DEPARTMENT 136
16. EXPORT & IMPORT DEPARTMENT 139
17. FINANCE DEPARTMENT 142
18. FACILITIES DEPARTMENT 145
19. COSTING DEPARTMENT 148
20. OBSERVATIONS AND LEARNING 151
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 4 NIFT, BANGALORE
6. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
COMPANY PROFILE
Karle group is a leading business conglomerate in Apparel, Infrastructure, Life sciences,
Properties & Packaging. The group was founded by Late Sri L.T Karle in the year 1972,
by opening LT Karle Unit 1 in Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore to manufacture apparel. Sri LT
Karle hails from Karle village, 20kms from Hassan in Karnataka. He was a science
graduate & had undergone training in advance agriculture in USA .Having gained
knowledge in advanced agriculture; he introduced scientific farming in his Hassan farm.
He had a unique aptitude of foreseeing future potential of markets 7 tapping steadily from
time to time. Besides excelling in business and providing employment to 1000‟s of
people, he also dedicated to the public life by occupying various positions to contribute to
the society.
With his entrepreneurial skills, he has groomed his sons (Mr. Sudarshan Karle & Mr.
Mahendra Karle) to take Karle group into greater heights. Since then, there has been no
look back for the group, with the aggressive forays into other business apart from
Apparel. The group has clear vision with in depth knowledge of the market, committed
human resources, state of the art technology & global associations which have all helped
Karle group to spread its wings.
VISION: Nurture passion for innovation & creativity to achieve its goal to become a
dominant & most admired player in the chosen field.
MISSION: To continuously…….attract , develop , retain , innovative and creative
people , Evolve and upgrade – Knowledge and technology systems , Process , product
and services , Encourage organic and inorganic growth initiatives.
GOAL: To become dominant and most admired players in the chosen fields.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 6 NIFT, BANGALORE
7. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
QUALITY POLICY: We are committed to provide apparel that meet or exceed present
and continual expectations of our customers in terms of : product quality , delivery and
cost.
ABOUT THE FOUNDER
Major positions held
Joined Indian National Congress 1938
President Malnad Productivity Council
President-Apparel Export Promotion Council (Karnataka)
President-Krishik Samaj
Vice President- Karnataka Pradesh Congress Committee (KPCC)
President: South India Textile Industries Association
Member of Karnataka Legislative Council 1978(MLC)
Serial Entrepreneur
Bangalore Crome Tannery 1970
LT Karle and Company (1972)-Bangalore
Bharathi Sales-Bangalore
Machine Component Manufacturing Bangalore
Bharathi Housing Factory- Bangalore
Bharathi Tiles- Hasan
Bharathi Coffee Curing- Hasan
Vijay Kandasari Sugar- Hasan
Bangalore Leather and Leather Craft Bangalore
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 7 NIFT, BANGALORE
8. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
CHRONOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT
Apparel Sector:
1972 LT Karle and Company, Unit 1, Yeshwanthpur
1989 LT Karle Unit 2, Madanayakanahalli
1994 Karle International Unit-1, Nagasandra village
2001 LT Karle Unit 4- Peenya II stage
2007 Karle International Unit-2, Mallarabanavadi
Other Business Companies
1997-Karle Properties
1998-Cymbio Pharma Pvt Ltd
2005-Karle Health Sciences Pvt Ltd
2007-Karle Infra Projects Pvt Ltd
2007- ETI Karle Klinical Pvt Ltd
2007-Karle Packaging Pvt Ltd
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 8 NIFT, BANGALORE
15. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
KARLE INTERNATIONAL – II
SURVEY NO. 26/1, 26/2, 27/2, MALLAR BANAVADI, KUNIGAL
ROAD, NELAMANGALA TALUK,
BANGALORE RURAL DIST
TEL: 27700493/ 27700568
Production Capacity
S. No. Facility No of Machines Quantity per
month
1 KI -I 750 150,000
2 KI- II 1100 285,000
3 LTK-II 275 73,000
4 LTK-IV 350 90,000
Total 2475 598,000
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 15 NIFT, BANGALORE
16. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
CORE COMPETENCE OF KARLE GROUP
Know the Job:- Over 38 years of expertise in Garment Manufacturing
Ensure quality: - All 4 factories are ISO 9001 -2008 certified.
Capacity: - four factories capable of manufacturing 600,000 garments a month.
Integrated manufacturing: All the activities of garment manufacturing are
carried out in-house to ensure quality and consistency
Competency: trained manpower to carry out the work.
Customer Satisfaction: More than 80% business come from existing customers
CORE VALUES
Deep respect for individuals and ecosystem
Deliver excellent quality to stakeholders and society at large
Be a responsible corporate and social citizen
Commitment to honesty and transparency
Respect for democratic process, change and joy.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 16 NIFT, BANGALORE
17. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
KARLE & CO – DEPARTMENTS:
APPAREL
MANAGING PARTNERS GROUP EXECUTIVE BOARD
OPERATIONS PRE PRODUCTION SUPPORT
FUNCTIONS
KARLE COSTING
EXPORTS HUMAN
RESOURCES
LTK - 1 PRODUCT
DEVELOPMENT ADMINISTRATION
LTK - 2
SAMPLING
COMPLIANCE
LTK - 4
MERCHANDISING
FINANCE &
KI - 1 ACCOUNTS
SOURCING &
KI - 2 PURCHASE INFORMATION
TECH
MATERIALS
(STORES) SYSTEM &
AUDIT
RMQA
MAINTAINANCE
CPQAD & UTILITY M/C
MAINTAINANCE
EXLM - HO PRODUCTION
C&F - MARKETING
CHENNAI
COST CONTROL
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 17 NIFT, BANGALORE
18. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
CORPORATE –HR ORGANOGRAM
KARLE GROUP OF
COMPANIES
MANAGING PARTNERS
CHIEF PEOPLE
OFFICE
GENERAL MANAGER HUMAN
RESOURCE
TALENT TALENT LEARNING & PERSONAL GROUP
ACQUISITION MANAGEMENT DEVELOPMENT DEVELOPMENT FACILITIES
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 18 NIFT, BANGALORE
19. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
TOP MANAGEMENT
Group Executive Board Members [GEB]
Mr. Sudharshan Karle – Managing Partner
Mr. Mahendra Karle – Managing Partner
Mr. P.P.Madappa – Senior Group Advisor
Corporate Management Council Members [CMC]
Mr. Chandramowly – Chief People Officer
Mr. Gururaj Bhat – Chief Financial Officer
Mr. Gokal Chittaranjan – Chief Executive
Mr. V.K.Kumar – Chief Financial Officer(Karle Infra Projects)
Dr. M.V.Nagendra – Chief Principal Investigator (ETI Karle Clinical)
Business Units & Heads
Apparel Sample Making – Mr. K.S.Prasanna (Partner)
Apparel Production – Mr. Gokal Chittaranjan ( Chief Executive Manufacturing)
Karle Integrated Packaging – Mr. Sunil Betigeri (Head Packaging Unit)
Cymbio Pharma Pvt ltd – Mr. Sadyojatha A.M (Deputy G.M)
Karle Health Sciences Pvt. ltd – Mr. Louis Menezes (Senior Vice President)
ETI Karle Clinical Pvt ltd – Dr. M.V.Nagendra ( Chief Principal Investigator )
Karle Properties – Mr. Srinivas Deshpande (Advisor)
Mr. Gopala Krishna (Senior Executive)
Karle Infra Projects – Mr. Mahlanna Sasalu (Chief Operating Officer)
o Mr. V.K.Kumar (Chief Financial Officer)
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 19 NIFT, BANGALORE
20. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
ORGANIZATION CHART:
General
Manager
Unit Head
P.M I.E P.E System Cutting in Finishing in Unit
Controller charge charge HR
Cutter/ Finishing
Layers / supervisor
Asst System controller Helpers
Checkers /
packers/
CAD spot
operators/P washers/
Bundle Feeding Producti Washin
roduction alteration
movers helpers on clerk g helper
writers/Em tailors
broidery
Asst
Ironers
Panel
checking
Supervisor
Production
writter
Numbering
helper
/Recutters/
Sorting
helpers/Pan
el checkers
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 20 NIFT, BANGALORE
21. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
CLIENTS:
ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH
LANDS END
ANN TAYLOR
TOMMY HILFIGER
SEARS
AMERICAN EAGLE
HOLLISTER
NIKE
ADIDAS
LEVIS
MAJOR CLIENTS (for the last year):
32%
39% Eddie Bauer
Nordstorm
Land's End
Ann Taylor
15%
14%
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 21 NIFT, BANGALORE
22. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
PRODUCT RANGE IN LTK-2
HEAVY JACKETS
LIGHT JACKETS
SKIRTS
TRENCH COATS
CASUAL BLAZERS
WIND SHETTERS
Men’s and Women’s wear
L.T LARLE is known for their jackets in the global market and amongst
the Indian garment exporters
Ann Taylor has awarded LT Karle NO.1 for their quality and production
in Asia.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 22 NIFT, BANGALORE
24. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
The sampling department at L. T. Karle is a massive structure where samples for their
most valuable clients are made. The four main clients that are handled in the sampling
unit are:
Ann Taylor
Lands‟ end
Eddie Bauer
Nordstrom
The sampling department consists of the design team, processes like cad, pattern making,
cutting, production, finishing, inspection, fitting of the garment etc.
Quality Objectives:
100% sample exit as per buyer requirement of quality and time
100% sample approval within 2 fit rounds
100% correct pattern release to production unit
100% correct pattern release to production unit as per stipulated time
Sample rejection <1.5%
Internal audit performance >90%
The different kind of samples made is:
Proto/ concept samples
Fit samples
Pre production sample
Garment package test sample
Size set samples
Salesman sample
Photo shoot sample
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 24 NIFT, BANGALORE
25. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
ORGANIZATIONAL CHART OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
HOD Sampling
Assistant Mgr Admin & scheduling A
Technician
Pattern Makers Sewing QA Coordinators
supervisors
Pattern
assistants
Feeding Iron Operators Operators Special
helpers machine oprts
Cutters
Assistant
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 25 NIFT, BANGALORE
26. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
A
Digitizers Sub store Maintenance
Assistants Head
Maintenance
mechanics
SAMPLE MAKING PROCESS
Objective: to make the required samples on time as per buyer specifications
Scope: this procedure is applicable for making samples for all buyers
Responsibilities:
Merchandising department: Furnishing the controlled techpack, sampling
indent, materials, trim cards, and shrinkage reports for making samples.
Materials department: Providing raw materials for making samples as per
sampling indent.
Sampling department: make samples as per requirement and as per time and
action calendar and also provide the necessary information to the production unit.
The tech pack received by sampling has the following:
Tech pack description:-
The tech pack consists of the following details.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 26 NIFT, BANGALORE
27. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Style folder description:-
All the possible details like brand name development number, style name,
fit, pattern number and other minute details are included in this folder.
Details & picture:-
The waist cut whether bias or contour with the GARMENT is represent
here. The place where maximum stitch is requires this fixing of the other
additional trims to be added to be through a diagram.
Fabric details:-
The fabric group, main fabric, pocketing fabric is represented with
development number & code with the supplier reference. The weight,
width, composition quality & size are marked here.
Thread details:-
The details of threads used are given with the code number. For e.g.:-,
main thread (41), navy thread (120), white thread (122), black thread
(125,126). The number‟s given in the bracket are the code numbers for
each colors which identifies the particular shade of the color. If the quality
specification is number given, it should be identified & conferred with the
buyer.
e.g.:- thickness (30tkt, 50tkt, 75tkt, 100tkt) 30 thicker, 100 finer, quality
cotton, poly, spun poly, rayon, poly-most strength, rayon-poor strength.
Packing details:-
The details given here are about box & plastic bag with their respective
code number‟s, & RMN description or details.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 27 NIFT, BANGALORE
28. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Different methods of packing:-
Dead man fold.
Stand up pack.
Hanger pack.
Zipper & Hardware
Zipper details include zipper chine zipper slider, zipper top stop, and zipper bottom stop
with their color description. Generally gold & silver would be the preferable colors.
Zipper band.
Zipper teeth.
Puller.
Stopper.
For men‟s garments zipper teeth comes in metal but in children‟s GARMENT.
It comes in plastic. The advantage is it comes with lock & unlocks system.
Comment sheet:-
Additional care label order of destination is attached to addition care label.
Additional text on care label.
The made “…………….” (Country of manufacturing) is represented here.
It should be numbered that care label for destination should be only in English.
Polish hand tag.
The detail specified here are source plant & country. e.g.:-79000 15.-marocco.These are
the following details include waist band button fastener denim with their code numbers &
colors.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 28 NIFT, BANGALORE
29. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Labelhandbags & miscellaneous:-
This detail includes HPL, woven label leather patch, care label size ticket& style label
with code number‟s color description & other details. Miscellaneous includes details of
bias tape & fusing tape with their code numbers & color.
After Wash Measurements:-
The after wash measurements waist, thigh, knee, bottom, inseam, Front rise, back rise.
Zip leant mettle, fly opening are given. The after wash measurement increase or decrease
according to the type of Fabric.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 29 NIFT, BANGALORE
30. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
CHECK LIST OF ITEMS/ REPORTS TO BE SENT ALONG WITH
SAMPLES
1. Proto/ PPR/ CR1
Package offered to Buyer QA
Proto Samples
Measurements and Comments of internal QA
Tech pack
Pattern Tracing
Trim Card
Fabric Shrinkage Report
Samples Review Sheet
Package sent to Buyer
Proto Samples
Measurements and Comments of external QA
Tech pack signed by Buyer QA
Pattern Tracing
Sample Review Sheet
2. Fit/ PPR/ CR2
Package offered to Buyer QA
Fit Samples
Measurements and Comments of internal QA
Tech pack
Pattern Tracing
Pinned Sample
Trim Card
Wash Standard & Wash Recipe
Pattern Superimpose
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 30 NIFT, BANGALORE
31. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Samples Review Sheet
Package sent to Buyer
Fit Samples
Measurements and Comments of external QA
Tech pack signed by Buyer QA
Pattern Tracing
Pinned Sample
Sample Review Sheet
3. PPS/ QRS/ Counter Sample
Package offered to Buyer QA
PP Samples
Measurements and Comments of internal QA
Tech pack
Pattern Tracing
Nested Pattern
Buyer agent approved Trim Card
Mini marker
Cut Patterns
Wash Standards & Wash Recipe
GPT Report
Samples Check List
Superimpose
Package sent to Buyer
PP Samples
PPS Report
Pattern Tracing
Sample Check List
Package sent to the Unit
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 31 NIFT, BANGALORE
32. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Sealed PP Sample
Sealer Report
Pattern Tracing
Sample Check List
4. Size Set
Package offered to Buyer QA
Size Set garments
Size Set Report of internal QA
Bulk Shrinkage Report
Pattern Tracing
Approved Wash Standards (Wash Recipe if applicable)
Samples Check List
Package sent to the Unit
Size Set garments
Size Set report of external QA
Full Set Patterns
Sample Check List
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 32 NIFT, BANGALORE
33. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
CAD DEPARTMENT (SAMPLING SECTION)
Process Flow:
Blocks (sent by Buyer)
Measurement &
Specifications
Pattern Preparation (Manually- 4 Pattern Preparation On
tables are present) CAD system.
Digitization
Inspection of
Patterns
Amendments
Marker Preparation
Inspection of
Marker
Amendments
Cutting (according to Cutting Indent
Stitching received from Merchandising Dept.) Plotting
Sample Inspection Sent to Redesign of
Comments
against Tech pack Buyer Patterns
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 33 NIFT, BANGALORE
34. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Applications:
Marker Preparation (done by Pattern Making & Marking Team)
Fabric Costing (done by Fabric Costing Executives- 2 members)
Costing (Process Flow):
Marker Development
Calculation of average fabric
consumption for a garment
Calculation of different losses
Estimation of Fabric
Requirement
Fabric Costing
Software Used:
Gerber-8.2
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 34 NIFT, BANGALORE
35. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Work instructions for the preparation of pattern-making
1. Make the initial pattern
Use the sloper/ tech pack/ sketch provided by buyer.
Make pattern to hit specifications given, use how to measure manual to arrive
at measurement given in specification sheet.
Check with Bill Of Material (BOM), to make patterns for shell, trims,
interlinings, poly-fills etc.
Provide correct sewing margin.
Provide notches, where required and match all seams.
Mark the grain line.
Mark all placements- pockets, labels, embroidery or patch etc.
Make marking pattern.
Check that the pattern is according to construction sheet, sketch and sample.
Prepare the cutter's must and compare with BOM (i.e. in case of change
between colour ways- should be mentioned in cutter's must).
Write style no., size, name of the pattern, cut quantity and pattern-version.
Prepare pattern check report for measurements, seam matching and notches.
Refer to shrinkage reports. In case of shrinkage/ elongation incorporate it as
soft/ hard patterns as applicable.
Clarify with technician in case of doubts.
2. Do as follows if check report does not meet the buyer’s specifications
Measure the proto garment to find out whether there was an error in
measuring as measurement by QA.
Determine whether error is in measurement or in parts that are mismatched.
Compare fabric report with shrinkage & elongation report.
Compare actual fusing, ironing shrinkage/ elongation with lab reports.
Take corrective action.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 35 NIFT, BANGALORE
36. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
3. Repeat the process till we get a proto that in all respect is correct and can be sent to
buyer for the review. Put the seal of version on the patterns
4. Once the buyer gives the comment the first sample the following needs to be done
Study the comments, compare with the proto sample to understand the
requirement.
Study the mock sent by buyer and compare with the proto sample.
Compare comments from buyer on specifications with proto and QA audit
report.
Study „how to correct‟ instructions from buyer to understand the
requirements.
Compare the above comments with P.V.O and identify the area to be
corrected.
Develop a new pattern called fit pattern (P.V.I).
Check whether the new pattern made tally with the revised measurement
chart & if all the comments have been incorporated, mention it on the
comment sheet.
Check P.V.I and pattern check report.
Destroy previous version hard pattern and maintain in soft copy.
Repeat the above process till fit sample is approved.
5. After receiving the approval for fit samples (PPS- preproduction samples), the
final approved pattern must be graded to cover the size range.
Follow the grade rules specified by buyer in the tech pack.
Grades are the sizes required by buyer.
Make block patterns, if required (depending on fabric report)
Check all the sizes comparing them with each other to see that grading as per
grading rule.
Prepare pattern check report for each size to ensure all measurements are
tallying with measurement chart.
Write all reference no., pattern version, name of pattern, number of cut, style
no, grain line etc.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 36 NIFT, BANGALORE
37. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Make multiple patterns for wash garments (depending on the % of shrinkage
and group of fabric according to shrinkage)
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 37 NIFT, BANGALORE
39. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
CUTTING
CUTTING SECTION AT KI-1
The cutting department at KI-1 is stationed at the second floor and it has state of the art
garment spreading and cutting machines. There are 2 types of cutting carried out at KI-1,
mainly:
Manual spreading
Machine spreading
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 39 NIFT, BANGALORE
40. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
The cutting section also has within it the CAD department, the re-cutting department, it
has sections for checking, numbering, and panel checking and sorting.
Cutting is done with the help of the CNC Gerber cutter (automated) and manually
through straight knife and band knife systems.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 40 NIFT, BANGALORE
42. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
CUTTING SECTION AT LTK-2
The cutting section consists of the production in charge, cutting supervisor, cutter,
damage cutter, lay girls, lay helpers & clerk for record maintenance. The production in
charge is the person responsible for the entire cutting department. Objective of cutting is
to separate fabric parts as replica of pattern pieces in marker plan.
For fulfilling this requirement cutting master plays a vital role. As the major cost of the
garment is in the fabric, accounting to 60 % of the total cost, so it is very essential that
actual usage of fabric is slightly controlled by scientific methods & procedures.
Furniture & Fixtures:
1. Fabric laying table
2. Weight
3. Numbering stickers
4. Lay paper sheet
5. Bundle card
6. Clamps
7. Pencil
8. Patterns
9. Scissors
10. Storage- racks & trolleys.
11. Measuring tape
QUALITY OBJECTIVES:
100% achievement of planned batch production efficiency.
Cost / minute: Rs 1.45/-
Wage: Rs 0.874 per attended minute.
Compliance audit score > 80%
Internal audit performance > 90%
Attrition rate = <5%
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 42 NIFT, BANGALORE
45. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Cutting department AQL =1.5
CUTTING (PATTERN SEPERATION ACCORDING TO SHRINKAGE %)
PATTERN COLOUR
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
The pattern for easy identification is differentiated with the help of different coloured
stickers
When the fabric swatches are sent for washing the shrinkage % of each lot is observed
and depending the shrinkage of each lot and depending on which lot fabric is issued
ffrom time to time the cutting QA accordingly gives the pattern
This colored sticker method is an in house innovation which is very user friendly and is
followed till date.
FORMATS AVAILABLE IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:
Cutting check list
Laying check list
Bundle identification
Bundle checking or recutting reports
Lay record
Daily production status report
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 45 NIFT, BANGALORE
46. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
STAFF IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Cutting supervisor
Cutting head
CAD operator
Pattern maker
QA
QA assistant
Production writer
Cutting issuer
Cutters
Re –cutters
Layers
Sorting helpers
Embroidery assistant
Helpers
Panel checkers
Machines available in C/S:
Machine Model Make Quantity
Straight knife Streak -II East man 5
Band knife STV-376 Wastema 2
End cutters EC-3 East man 4
Drilling Dz3-ID Dalian 2
Plotter GGT ACCUPLOT Gerber 1
100
Fusing machine HBP FA 700 Fiblon 1
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 46 NIFT, BANGALORE
47. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Fusing machine (complete automatic)
Korea fiblon
The machine is divided into
Belt speed
Temperature
Pressure
ON/OFF main
Upper /lower heat temperature
Regulator
Fusing material strength is calculated using fusometer
This is used to check the bond strength
The machine is japan‟s obha siki
For example:
Fuse line temperature observed:125 degrees centigrade
Bond strength :400 gms
Duration :15 secs
Pressure :3 khr
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 47 NIFT, BANGALORE
49. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
SEWING
Sewing department is where the actual production takes place. The batch should be set
according to the style . The batch is set based upon the previous time study. The
production target for each day is set according to the time study done by IED in order to
meet the shipment day.
The layout set up in this factory was batch & assembly(ETON) layout. The batch layout
is where parts like collar, cuff , front etc are prepared and assembly is where all the batch
parts are assembled. As soon as the bundles comes to the sewing section, the production
process starts.
QUALITY OBJECTIVES:
100 % achievement of planned batch production efficiency.
Cost / minute = 1.45 /-
Wage = Rs 0.874 per attended per minute
Compliance audit score > 80%
Internal audit performance > 90%
Unauthorized absenteeism < 2%
Attrition rate : < 5%
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 49 NIFT, BANGALORE
51. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
SEWING:
Every tailor is graded
A=Rs 4500
B=Rs 4000
C=Rs 3800
ORGANISATION CHART:
AGM
Production Finishing Production
manager incharge executive
Supervisor PE Asst System
Floor incharge Pattern maker controller
Checker
Asst system
APM controller
Ironer
Supervisor
Finishing
Helper helper
Tailor Helper Operator Finishing
helper Batch
mover
Poly
packer Production
bank asst
Spot
wash
Alt tailor
Production
writer
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 51 NIFT, BANGALORE
52. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
PROCESS FLOW CHART:
Receipt of production file from PE
Preparation of unit PPS
Unit PPS approval QAM
Receipt of machine layout
Internal PPM
External PPM
Cutting /ROM
CS Accessories from
stores
Batch setting
Load pilot run
Approval of pilot runs by
QAM/CPQAD/BUYER QA
Bulk loading
Monitor production as per target
End line checking
Accountings & handover to system controller
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 52 NIFT, BANGALORE
53. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
LTK-2 MACHINE LIST
Machin
TOT e
TRAINI AL SEN Tot brought
R NG FINISHI IN T al from
LINE LINE LINE LINE LINE LINE & SECTI NG/ UNI OU in ALLO other
TYPE -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 D ON Cutting T T use TED unit
3
S/N 27 26 30 26 23 26 2 10 8 208 208 587 -379 24
1
S/N EC 3 2 1 1 1 1 6 0 0 25 25 93 -68
D/N 16 15 15 10 15 15 0 0 0 86 86 124 -38
D/N CS 1 0 0 0 3 0 1 0 0
2
O/L 1 0 1 6 3 1 8 3 1 44 44 112 -68
BUTTON 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 3 3 19 -16
B/HOLE 0 0 0 0 0 0 5 0 0 5 5 17 -12
B.TAKE 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 0 1 9 9 28 -19
KEY.HOLE 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 5 5 7 -2
12/N 2 1 0 2 1 0 5 0 0 11 11 0 11
F/OF ARM 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 3 3 0 3
BLIND H 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
WELT 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 -3
XY TACKER 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 2 2 0
FLAT LOCK 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 3 3 3 0
SNAP 2 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0
FEGGOTING
M/C 0 0 0 0 0 0 5 0 0
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 53 NIFT, BANGALORE
54. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
The sewing floor has 6 lines
A- Shift batch
B- Regular batch
C- Regular batch
D- Regular batch
E- Shift batch
F-regular batch
Shift batch the batch runs for 16 hours in a day
6 am to 2pm and 2.30 to 10.30pm
2:00 – 2.30 (lunch for shift batch)
The other batches run for 8 ½ hrs and lunch is from 1pm – 1.30pm
Lunch timing for other departments is 1.30-2.00pm
A batch is in one line has 46 machines
B batch is divided into two lines in two different places has 44 machines
C batch is divided into two lines in two different places 49 machines
D batch is in one line has 43 machines
E and f are divided into parts n assembly has 50 and 46 machines respectively.
After parts stitching before it goes to assembly each line has a parts bank where they
store the parts which will then be loaded into the assembly line which is switch track
system.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 54 NIFT, BANGALORE
55. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
General Manager
Governs the entire unit
Head of the entire unit
Analysis the monthly reports and directly works with the AGM
Discusses the problems to the development team
Plays an integral role in evaluation meeting of the entire organization
Coordinates with chief executive officer about the progress and the issues
Gets the highest salary in the unit
Assistant general manager
Is like a factory manager and has roles of a factory manager
Governs the entire production from top
Starting from procurement to shipment
Target is to reach the shipment date
Production manager addresses to the AGM
Reporting to the GM
Unit monthly planning to be prepared by AGM
Order tracking and discuss about the ppm dates etc
Monthly turnover report to be generated by AGM
Production manager:
To look after the production in terms of quantity
Look after the employees in the batch
Supervise the APM‟S
Making sure the target production is reached at the desired time
Coming up with immediate solutions to problems
Keeping a track on production in all the lines
Making changes in PPM if necessary
Try to reach the unit‟s objectives
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 55 NIFT, BANGALORE
56. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Approve the daily OVER TIME reports produced by production writers
APM
Direct the supervisors
Head of the entire batch
Have to handle and solve all the problems of the batch
Have to report to the PM
Have to make sure that the batch reaches the required target
Plays an important role in pilot runs
Approves daily DPR
Helps the IE in line balancing
Integral part in PPM
SUPERVISORS
Directly interacts to the tailors
First hand experience in batch problems
Always on the floor
Helps in time study
Checks on the production and quality hourly
Takes care of the tailors
Can increase the tailors salary if finds them worth
Rates the tailors
SYSTEM CONTROLLER
It is a department where the system controlling head takes care of movement of
Cutting panels
Parts bank
Finished garments
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 56 NIFT, BANGALORE
57. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Cutting panels once it is out of the cutting department the system controller has to
the sign the report which has the details of the number of panels coming to the
shop floor
And it has to tally to the report generated by the sewing department
Any case of missing panels the system controller has to recheck and analyse or
else this department will be held responsible
In case of parts bank it has to keep a track on the parts going from parts batch to
assembly
In case of finished goods
It has to keep a track on the finished garments going to the finishing department
and from there to washing to the head office if necessary
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 57 NIFT, BANGALORE
59. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
FINISHING
Finishing section consists of the various operations like trimming, ironing, measurement
checking, folding is carried out. In trimming operation sides of the pocket, seams, cuffs
(if any) i.e. tiny extensions of the thread are trimmed to give a uniform and finished look
to the garment. After trimming the general checking is done to see the above processes
are carried out correctly or not. Ironing is done to set crease wherever required and to
remove unwanted wrinkles. This gives a finished look to the garment. After ironing the
garment is sent for final checking where the garment is finally checked for any flaws and
defects. After the final checking the garments are sent for measurement checking before
the folding operation, here the garment is checked for its measurements against originals.
This step is the last operation in finishing which is folding, this includes fastening of all
the tags in proper fashion and folding the garment as per the buyer‟s requirement.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 59 NIFT, BANGALORE
61. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
PROCESS FLOW CHART: FINISHING SECTION
Receipt of production file & packing approval
Receipt of garments from system controller
Middle checking
AQL inspection
Receipt of poly packing approval
De dusting with blower
Pressing
De dusting & removal of cut thread
Presentation checking
Measurement checking
Folding
Tagging
Poly bag packing
To packing section
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 61 NIFT, BANGALORE
62. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
PROCESS FLOW CHART: PACKING SECTION
Receipt of poly packed garment from finishing section
Sorting out of garments
Cartoning & marking
Packed AQL by CPQAD
Buyer certification
Shipment
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 62 NIFT, BANGALORE
63. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
STEP ONE
• Checking label for
A) Style No.
B) PO No.
• Affixing the price tag
• Folding the garment
• Placing folded garment in polythene bag and closing the bag
• One bag will have one garment.
STEP TWO
• All the garments placed in polythene bag will undergo Metal detector test
• Tested garments will be segregated size wise
STEP THREE
• Setting up carton box
• Mentioning product details on the carton box
• Placing the garments into carton box
• Closing and sealing the carton box
• PACKING COMBINATIONS
1) Solid color and solid size
2) Solid color and assorted size
3) Solid size and assorted color.
4) Assorted color and assorted size.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 63 NIFT, BANGALORE
64. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
QUALITY ASSURANCE
Ensuring the production of the garment with reference to the standard specification is
known as quality control. Quality of the garment is inspected in various stages from
fabric to finished garment.
Fabric Quality
Once the fabric is received by the stores, it is checked by quality department by 4 point
system. Rejection of fabric should be informed to the supplier before 1 week, in case of
no information from the garment unit, the fabric is considered as accepted by the unit and
the supplier won‟t accept any more rejections. So, quality team should work as soon as
fabric in-house happens.
Common defects found during 4 point inspection
1. Broken stitches
2. Contamination
3. Double pick
4. Miss weave
5. Miss end
6. Stain
7. Slub
8. Stop mark
9. Miss point
10. Knots
11. Mend mark
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 64 NIFT, BANGALORE
65. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Marker inspection
The marker plan is inspected for quality parameters before cutting operation. The
parameters include marker length, number of parts, garment size as per pattern, markings
as per pattern, grain lines, notches, marker matching one way, position of numbering
places.
Lay inspection
The defects occurring during spreading are inspected after the process. The common
defects obtained are to be minimized and account for the following i.e. lay length, lay
tension, selvedge edge cut, ply height, number of plies, lay alignment etc.
Cut part inspection
Components of the garments are to be cut with dimension of pattern to ensure better
sewing operation. To enhance it some of the common defects that are inspected are
notches, and frayed edges, cut part to pattern check.
Sewing inspection
In this, inspection is done at several stages which are as follows:
Inline inspection - The sewn parts such as Cuff, sleeve attachment, pocket
attachment are inspected.
End – of – line Audit – In this auditing of garment Seams, loops, Cuff attachment,
and hems.
Pockets and seams are inspected for defects. The defects identified are: Uneven
top stitch, broken or skip stitch, wrong SPI, loose tension, marking mismatch etc.
Label- missing, misplaced, slanted, wrong thread, raw edge, uneven tension etc
Pocket- Up-down, raw edge, skip, broken or down stitch, uneven topstitch, shade
variation, puckering
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 65 NIFT, BANGALORE
66. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Hem- Improper overlap stitch, roping, puckering, seam mismatch, broken, skip ,
tension, raw edge
Side Seam- Raw edge, puckering, SPI wrong, uneven stitch, wrong thread,
broken, skip, down stitch
These are mostly occurring defects in garment production. An hourly report is maintained
and accordingly settings are kept in production line. In the final inspection AQL
Standards (according to buyer requirement ) is adopted to maintain quality.
Accepted quality level
It is the maximum quality level with tolerance within which the product can be accepted
for its quality, beyond which the product can be rejected. The following chart is used to
access quality:
AQL
Lot Size Sample Size 1.5 2.5 4.0
A R A R A R
2-8 2 0 1 0 1 0 1
9-15 3 0 1 0 1 0 1
16-25 5 0 1 0 1 0 1
26-50 8 0 1 0 1 1 2
51-90 13 0 1 1 2 1 2
91-150 20 1 2 1 2 2 3
151-280 30 1 2 2 3 3 4
QUALITY OBJECTIVES:
Failed audits % = <5%
End line defects % = < 10%
Cost of poor quality = < 2% of wage bill
Short shipment % = < 0.3%
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 66 NIFT, BANGALORE
68. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
MATERIALS DEPARTMENT
Responsible for
Receipt,
Storage,
Distribution,
Record keeping and
Identifying surplus and deficient quantities of materials.
1. RECEIPT OF MATERIAL
When the materials reach the concerned factories, the inward clerk of material
department check the purchase order, invoice, packing slip etc., to ascertain style
number, quantity ordered and received, and other specifications of the material.
Variations if any between ordered material and received will be brought to the notice
of concerned merchandiser to sort out the matter.
2. STORING OF MATERIAL
After receipt the material will be stored properly in the respective stores. Before
issuing the material for production they have got to be checked/ tested by Raw
Material Quality Assurance (RMQA) department. Therefore the material to be given
for RMQA will marked with orange colour sticker. After RMQA test the material
will be marked with green colour sticker.
3. ISSUING MATERIAL
Materials checked by RMQA will be issued to production department for cutting.
Sometimes material is issued from one factory to another depending upon the factory
in which a particular style is manufactured. For this purpose the dispatch clerk has to
prepare delivery challen (DC) and enter in the security counter.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 68 NIFT, BANGALORE
69. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
4. SURPLUS/ DEFICIENT MATERIAL STATUS
Materials department is also responsible for detecting surplus / deficient quantity of
materials. It will prepare surplus quantity status and advice merchandising
department to plan for extra garments. In case of deficiency it will follow up with
import, sourcing and merchandising department to ensure that remaining quantity is
brought at right time.
5. PROCEDURE FOR IMPORTED MATERIAL
Apart from the procedure mentioned above additional formalities have to be
completed in respect of imported material. When the material arrives at the
respective factories the security department will break open the seal of consignment.
Important documents like packing slip, invoice, bill of entry etc., will be checked by
inward clerk of materials department. For each imported consignment get a bond
number allotted by customs department through EXIM department. The bond
number has to be entered in the inward register.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 69 NIFT, BANGALORE
70. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
STORES
EOU
DTA
EXPORT ORIENTED UNITS ARE
o LTK-4
o KI-2
DUTY TARRIF AREA
o LTK-2
o KI-1
DTA pays duties entirely and gets the fabric
EOU does not pay the duties and get the fabric; it is as if the fabrics are with customs
dept
DTA cannot give fabric to EOU
EOU can give fabrics to DTA
EOU – export oriented unit
DTA – domestic traffic area
Fabric stores
The fabric is issued, stored and inspected here. The fabric is only stored, relaxed and
issued to the production floor after cutting. The inspection of the fabric is done here.
The fabric is inspected using 4 – point defects system. Here 100% fabric inspection is
done.
The formula used to calculate total points are:
A – Total defect points observed.
Net points = (A x 10000)/ (width in cms x length in meters).
If this value is greater than 22, than the roll is rejected.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 70 NIFT, BANGALORE
71. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Trims stores
The store maintains both capital and non-capital requirements of the factory. The capital
requirements of the factory are concerned with the files for maintenance records, data
storage devices, and computers etc. The non-capital requirements are the products used
for the garment production. The products are sewing threads, labels, zippers, accessories,
trims, rivets, fasteners etc. these materials are to be sourced / acquired as per buyer‟s
requirement before the actual production.
Furniture & Fixtures
a) Store Racks
b) Trim Storing Racks
c) Fabric Inspection Machine
QUALITY OBJECTIVES:
100% of time materials issued to sampling with in the stipulated time.
100% of the time submission of trim cards with in the stipulated time.
100% upto date maintenance of store records.
100% submission of counting report with in the stipulated time.
Head office team ;
Clearance of materials shortage and rejections for all the counting reports within the
stipulated time.
100% time stock confirmation with in the stipulated time from the left out bonds.
DTA units :
100% of times submission of counting reports with in the stipulated time.
100% planning of extra garments in stage 3.
Zero % production loss due to materials department
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 71 NIFT, BANGALORE
72. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
EOU units :
100% of time submission of counting reports within the stipulated time.
100% planning of extra garments in stage 3
100% updation of regulatory and statutory records.
Zero % production loss due to material departments.
NIKE
Sampling plan chart
Woven fabrics yards/mts Inspection quantity
less than 2000 yards One roll or 10% which ever is >
(1,800mts)
2001 to 20,000 yds 10%
(1,801-18,000mts)
20001-50000 yds 5%
(18001-46000mts)
Over 50000 yds 3%
(46001 mts)
Knit fabrics Inspection quantity
less than 2000 yards One roll or 10% which ever is >
(1,800mts)
2001 to 5000 yds 10%
(1,801-4600mts)
Over 2000yds 3%
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 72 NIFT, BANGALORE
73. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Nike acceptable point
Fabric type Ind roll pts/100 yds Shipment points
Woven fabric 20 20
Warp knit 20 20
Knit fabric 25 20
(open or tubular)
Acceptance criteria Tommy
Fabric type Roll point /100 yds Shipment points
Woven fabric 28 20
Knits 36 30
L.T KARLE sampling plan
FABRIC ROLL POINT SHIPMENT POINT
Woven /knitted 20 20
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 73 NIFT, BANGALORE
74. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
ORGANISATION CHART:
HOD STORES
EXECUTIVE STORES
JUNIOR
EXECUTIVE DOCUMENTATION
PLANNING TEAM TEAM
Computer
operator Senior
assistant Senior
fabric and assistant DC &
accessories Annexure
Senior stock
assistant
Material
issues
Senior
assistant
inward
Assistant field
work
Helpers
Senior Senior
assistant assistant fabric
accessories
Assistant Assistant
accessories fabric
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 74 NIFT, BANGALORE
75. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
PROCESS FLOW CHART – INWARD PROCESS:
Stores
Receipt Order Status
Receipt of Bill Of Materials - QAMS
Prepare material Requirement Plan
Receipt Of Consignment
Inward Process
Package verification against Supplier Invoice / Packing Unit
Inhouse Status Report
Lab Test Forward counting report to merchandising Trim card
through HO materials
Pass Fail Inspection process Approved Rejected
Quality check
Pass Fail
Generation of counting
Report
Conditionally approved by Rejected
RMQAM / Buyer
Forward counting report Inform to purchase executive
to HO
Storage in rejected area
Send it back to
Storage of passed materials suppliers
Disposal after 6 months
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 75 NIFT, BANGALORE
76. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Updated MRP
Balance material status
follow up
Forward bills to account for payment
Issues to sub stores with issue slip
Issue of fabric to cutting section Issues of trims to production
based on lay record based on MRS
Receipt of end bits from cutting Receipt of left out materials from
section production
Recutting process OCR
OCR
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 76 NIFT, BANGALORE
77. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
PROCESS FLOW CHART – IUT
Stores
Receipt of loading schedule from HO
Receipt of Bill Of Materials - QAMS
Update status to production
Receipt Of Materials
Inward Process
Package verification against packing list for weight & no of packages
Materials received with ispection Materials received without inspection
Generate in house status report
Lab test Trim card for accessories
Storage of materials Forward ISI to In
style wise house unit & Yes No pass
materials - HO Rejected
To be inspected
Inspection process
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 77 NIFT, BANGALORE
78. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Inspection pass Inspection fail
Quality checking
Conditionally approved by Rejected
buyer
Counting report
Storage in rejected Area
Forward CR to materials Dpt –
HO – CC to inhouse unit
Send the materials to inhouse
unit with counting report
Storage of passed material
Updated MRP
BMS follow up
Update status to production
Issues to sub store with issue slip
Issues of fabric to cutting Issues of trims to production
section based on lay record based on MRS
Receipt of end bits from Receipt of left over
cutting section materials from production
Recutting process
OCR
OCR
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 78 NIFT, BANGALORE
79. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Stores
Objective: Receipt, storage and issue of raw materials and packing materials in order to
ensure smooth production
Scope:
This procedure is applicable for receipt storage and issue of all types of raw materials
Responsibility:
merchandising department
Import department
Raw material quality assurance
Materials department
Materials department: depending on the documents from merchandiser through materials
department HO on receipt of order status
Based on BOM stores planning team shall prepare the following documents
MRP
Running length material work sheet
Thread work sheet
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 79 NIFT, BANGALORE
80. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
IUT PROCESS
Production unit shall collect the following documents from-HO materials department on
receipt of loading schedule
Production file
Carton box work sheet
Poly bag work sheet
MRP and thread worksheet shall be prepared by the unit
Storage of accepted items
Storage if failed items (identified by blue sticker)
Storage of conditionally approved items (C.A on the blue sticker)
Storage of rejected items (red sticker)
Once in 6 months review for decision on disposal
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 80 NIFT, BANGALORE
81. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
PROCESS FLOW CHART – TRIMS
Receipt of trims consignment in material department
Collect PO & packaging list from materials Dpt
Send samples to lab & proceed inspection
Trim card – send to merchandiser
Go for inspection – AQL
Metal detection & heat transfer test Pick samples for inspection as per AQL norms
Fail Do inspection as per laid out instruction
If fail in any test
Check lab test report & merchandiser
If no
approval report
If yes
Do not proceed further
inform HOD & act as per Make inspection report
instruction Pass
AQL fail
Pass quantity – store in pass Do 100% inspection
inspection area / counting
Rejected quantity – store in
rejected area
Inform HOD for further action
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 81 NIFT, BANGALORE
82. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
PROCESS FLOW CHART – FABRICS:
Receipt of fabric consignment in material department
Collect PO & packaging list from materials Dpt
Send samples to lab
Wash program
Swatch cutting
non wash program
Send swatches from 100%
rolls to lab for shrinkage test Shade band & colour Run card
Fabric relaxation projection
100% relaxation / ironing & fusing
shrinkage
Center to selvedge colour verification
Width measurement
Fabric quality inspection as per 4 point system
Inform HOD & Fail
act as per Check lab test report
instruction
Summary report
Take decision about acceptance / rejection by head of RMQA
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 82 NIFT, BANGALORE
84. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
Industrial Engineering Department is one of most important department in the industry.
It helps in up gradation of the production department with different types of studies in the
department like capacity, time, production, motion study. To improve the production &
achieve target in time it is setup in batch & SAM (standard allotted minute) is calculated.
IED follows the GENERAL SEWING DATA (GSD) system
Productivity = the ratio of output produced to the input resources utilized in the
production.
QUALITY OBJECTIVES:
100% of time actual SMV shall match with costed SMV with +/- 5% variation (monthly)
100% of time actual thread consumption shall match with costed thread consumption
with +/- 5% variation (monthly).
Preparation for the styles so as to reach learning curve targets min of 95%.
Maintain helper numbers in sewing line as per SMV‟s (with 5% max variation)
Functions of IE department at Karle:
Industrial Engineering (IE) department in Karle Group is located in new head office. It
has two wings. Each of the wings has two teams namely development team working from
head office and Implementation team working at our apparel factories. The department
uses specialized software called GSD (general sewing data).
1) Feasibility study: The development team studies the tech pack and determines
whether a particular style is possible to manufacture in our organization
considering the facilities/resources we have. This information will help the
organization to decide whether to accept or reject a particular business proposal.
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 84 NIFT, BANGALORE
85. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
2) Time study: The development team studies the time required for manufacturing a
particular style. For this purpose the various operations involved in a style are
segregated and time required for performance of each operation is calculated. By
adding all these time requirements the basic minutes is derived. Another 15% to
20% time is added as human fatigue to determine the time required for
manufacturing a garment which is called standard minute value (SMV). This
information is required by costing, production planning and production
departments.
3) Calculating thread consumption: The development team determines the
requirements of thread for manufacturing a style. This information is required for
the (a) costing department to arrive at the price to be quoted for the buyer, and (b)
merchandising department to decide the quantity of thread to be purchased.
4) Simplifying the style process: The development team works with technicians of
sampling department to simplify the construction of a garment at the product
development stage itself.
5) Making a sample piece at the factory: After the pre production meeting and
before the pilot run production, the implementation team at the unit will prepare a
sample piece of the garment to understand the technicalities involved in a style.
Difficulties if any found at this level will be resolved by discussing with
development team and sampling department.
6) Skill matrix for tailors: The implementation team is responsible for preparing
skill matrix of all the tailors working in the unit. This will help the industrial
engineers to understand the skill level of each and every tailor so that they can be
deployed at appropriate places in the production line.
7) Batch Setting: Before loading a style to production line, the implementation
team has to ensure that the number of production lines is available, all machines
are in proper condition and there is sufficient number of trained people to handle
all the critical operations.
8) Line Balancing: The implementation team has to study the process involved, the
time required for each operations, the competent tailors to be placed at each
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 85 NIFT, BANGALORE
86. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
machine of the production line, and the tasks to be performed by each tailors so
that all the tailors in the line get the work properly distributed.
9) Actual time study: The SMV calculated by development team is only an estimate
done in controlled condition at head office The implementation team will actually
do the time study at the factory after a style is loaded for mass production. This
will help the I.E. department to ascertain the variation between the SMV
calculated by development team and the actual time consumed for making a
garment. It will also help the production planning department to fix the daily
production targets for the production functionaries.
10) Daily production report: The implementation team prepares the daily production
report for each style and sends it to production planning department.
Role of IE
Pre production
Analyze the garment
See the 3 M‟s: MAN MATERIAL AND MACHINE requirement for the particular
garment and quantity
This includes
Operation break down
Thread consumption report
Machine list
Machine layout
During production
Line balancing
Theoretical balancing :based on the SMV values
Dynamic balancing: practical one based on the absenteeism
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 86 NIFT, BANGALORE
87. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Post production
After the production is over the IE has to report to the development team if there has to
be any changes or any kind of problems faced during the production so that those
problems don‟t repeat.
Data analysis is done based on the reports generated
On efficiency, minute, cost, man and machine etc
Thread consumption
Instruction
1. List down the operation of the garment and enter the type of ink used as per
GSD.style bulletin in the operations and machine consumption separately.
2. Measure the scam length of each oper cms using a calibrated measuring tape by
excluding the margin.
3. Per each operation add 5cms allowance to the scan length on either side of the
scan for scan margin and wastage in threading and enter the values in scan length
4. Enter the number of scans for each operation in frequency collumn.
5. Refer the ratio chart and enter the ratio for each type of machine / stich type used
for the operation in the “ratio column.
6. Calculate thread consumption for each operation by formula given below:
Thread consumption in cms =SEAM LENGTH X FREQUENCY X RATIO
7. Add the thread consumption for all operations to obtain total thread consumption
for garment in cms.
8. Categorise thread consumption machine wise.
9. Calculate thread consumption in meters and enter in thread deatails.
10. Compare thread type colour/quality/stich/density with instructions given in style
file.
11. Refer the calculations done and the thread details table to categorise the
consumption for each thread type enter the values in thread summary.
THREAD RATIOS AND CONSUMPTION
Single needle
SPi needle bobbin Total ratio
10-12 1.25 1.25 1:2.5
12-14 1.5 1.5 1:3
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 87 NIFT, BANGALORE
88. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Single needle top stitch-thicker thread.
Spi needle bobbin Total ratio
7 1.5 1.5 1:3
8 1.6 1.4 1:3
Double needle
Spi needle bobbin Total ratio
10-12 2.5 2.5 1:5
12-14 3 3 1:6
Chain stich
Spi needle looper Total ratio
10-12 2 4 1:6
12-14 2 4 1:6
14-16 3 4 1:7
3 thread overlock
Sp1 needle looper Total ratio
10-12 5 15 1:20
12-14 5 17 1:22
14-16 7 19 1:26
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 88 NIFT, BANGALORE
90. Apparel internship (2008-2012)
Example of thread worksheet of LT KARLE
FO IE/F
RM M/0
L.T.KARLE NO 2
THREAD CONSUMPTION CALCULATION
& Co RE
V.N 02
O
MERCHANDISIN DA
TO DEPT
G TE
GI 9/1/2011
DEVELOPMENT INDUSTRIAL
FROM DEPT VE
TEAM ENGG
N
STYLE NO 1J1245 BASED ON PPS
DESCRIPTI
Jacket SIZE M
ON
BUYER A&F
SEAM
PART T RA
OPERA MACHI SP LENGT FREQU
S E TI CONSUMP
TIONS NE I H IN ENCY
NAME X O TION
CMS
Hood 10
1.2
panels att snt 60 - 74 2 185
5
fell seam 12
10
1.2
snb 40 - 74 2 185
5
12
Hood
15 8-
panels att tmncs 81 4 3 972
0 10
FOA
8-
bmncs 80 81 4 4 1296
Hood 10
Hood 10
1.2
btm pnls snt 60 - 34 2 85
5
att shell 12
10
1.2
snb 40 - 34 2 85
5
12
Hood
15 8-
btm pnls tsn 41 2 1.6 131.2
0 10
att top st
bsn 80 8- 41 2 1.4 114.8
LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 90 NIFT, BANGALORE