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MANUFACTURERS & EXPORTERS OF READYMADE GARMENTS &
                 TEXTILES (100% EOU)
           (An ISO 9001:2008 Certified Company)




    SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT

            BATCH (2008 – 2012)




                                                BY:
                                       ANOOP SINGH
                                                    &
                                    RAJEEV SHARAN
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


                          ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The presentation of “SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT” was possible due to the
direction & help rendered by couple of persons. We take pleasure to remember them.


We acknowledge Ms.Jonalee Bajpai ,Course Coordinator B.F.Tech, NIFT, Bangalore.
Our profound thanks & indebted gratitude for our mentor Ms. Sweta Jain for her
guidance & suggestions given at every stage while bringing out this report.
First of all, we would like to thank Mr. Guruprasad, Learning & Development officer, LT
Karle, who provided us the brilliant opportunity to be internee at the organisation
We also extend a special thanks to Mr. Vijeindra Joshi, the Assistant General Manager
(and my mentor) for taking out time from his busy schedule to provide us with valuable
guidance throughout this training period.
Further, We would like to extend our regards to Mr.Vijay and Mr.Manjesh, the
Industrial Engineers for providing us with all the necessary information reviews and
remarks at all stages of the internship.We would also like to thank Mr. Santhosh, the
cutting in-charge and Mr.Rudresh,the QA Head of cutting room for their immense
cooperation during our study in the cutting room.
Our sincere thanks to all the managers of various departments for guiding us throughout
the internship.
We would also like to thank all staff and workers of LTK -2, for keeping patience and
sharing their valuable experience with us.

                                                                               Anoop Singh
                                                                                         &
                                                                              Rajeev Sharan




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               2               NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


                      OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIP

National Institute of Fashion Technology, a premier institute in South-east Asia is
responsible for human resource development for apparel industry in India. Apparel
Production department is imparting education in crucial areas of technology in garment
manufacturing. After completing three years of apparel production, a techno managerial
under graduate degree program at National Institute of Fashion Technology, the students
are exposed to a eight week industry internship with the leading garment manufacturing
organizations as a part of the course curriculum

The objective of this industry internship is aimed towards blending the classroom study
with industry application. This internship helps the students to analyze the day to day
activities along with practical application of different principles.

The objectives of internship is firstly to gain practical exposure and secondly application
of knowledge in real life projects.

This internship also helps us to learn and improve our interpersonal communication skills
with colleagues, peer group and workers.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                 3               NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


                                 Table of Contents
Sl No                                                    Page no
1.       COMPANY PROFILE                                 5
2.       SAMPLING DEPARTMENT                             23
3.       SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT                  38
4.       SEWING SECTION                                  48
5.       FINISHING SECTION                               58
6.       QUALITY ASSURANCE                               64
7.       MATERIALS DEPARTMENT                            67
8.       IE DEPARTMENT                                   83
9.       CPQAD                                           108
10       PLANNING                                        115
11       HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT                       118
12       MERCHANDISING                                   123
         ROLE OF PPM
13.      IT DEPARTMENT                                   125
14.      WASHING DEPARTMENT                              129
15.      SYSTEM & AUDIT DEPARTMENT                       136

16.      EXPORT & IMPORT DEPARTMENT                      139

17.      FINANCE DEPARTMENT                              142

18.      FACILITIES DEPARTMENT                           145

19.      COSTING DEPARTMENT                              148

20.      OBSERVATIONS AND LEARNING                       151




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN        4      NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




                             COMPANY PROFILE




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   5     NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


COMPANY PROFILE


Karle group is a leading business conglomerate in Apparel, Infrastructure, Life sciences,
Properties & Packaging. The group was founded by Late Sri L.T Karle in the year 1972,
by opening LT Karle Unit 1 in Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore to manufacture apparel. Sri LT
Karle hails from Karle village, 20kms from Hassan in Karnataka. He was a science
graduate & had undergone training in advance agriculture in USA .Having gained
knowledge in advanced agriculture; he introduced scientific farming in his Hassan farm.
He had a unique aptitude of foreseeing future potential of markets 7 tapping steadily from
time to time. Besides excelling in business and providing employment to 1000‟s of
people, he also dedicated to the public life by occupying various positions to contribute to
the society.


With his entrepreneurial skills, he has groomed his sons (Mr. Sudarshan Karle & Mr.
Mahendra Karle) to take Karle group into greater heights. Since then, there has been no
look back for the group, with the aggressive forays into other business apart from
Apparel. The group has clear vision with in depth knowledge of the market, committed
human resources, state of the art technology & global associations which have all helped
Karle group to spread its wings.


VISION: Nurture passion for innovation & creativity to achieve its goal to become a
dominant & most admired player in the chosen field.


MISSION: To continuously…….attract , develop , retain , innovative and creative
people , Evolve and upgrade – Knowledge and technology systems , Process , product
and services , Encourage organic and inorganic growth initiatives.


GOAL: To become dominant and most admired players in the chosen fields.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               6               NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


QUALITY POLICY: We are committed to provide apparel that meet or exceed present
and continual expectations of our customers in terms of : product quality , delivery and
cost.


ABOUT THE FOUNDER

Major positions held
       Joined Indian National Congress 1938
       President Malnad Productivity Council
       President-Apparel Export Promotion Council (Karnataka)
       President-Krishik Samaj
       Vice President- Karnataka Pradesh Congress Committee (KPCC)
       President: South India Textile Industries Association
       Member of Karnataka Legislative Council 1978(MLC)

Serial Entrepreneur
       Bangalore Crome Tannery 1970
       LT Karle and Company (1972)-Bangalore
       Bharathi Sales-Bangalore
       Machine Component Manufacturing Bangalore
       Bharathi Housing Factory- Bangalore
       Bharathi Tiles- Hasan
       Bharathi Coffee Curing- Hasan
       Vijay Kandasari Sugar- Hasan
       Bangalore Leather and Leather Craft Bangalore




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               7            NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


CHRONOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT

Apparel Sector:
      1972 LT Karle and Company, Unit 1, Yeshwanthpur
      1989 LT Karle Unit 2, Madanayakanahalli
      1994 Karle International Unit-1, Nagasandra village
      2001 LT Karle Unit 4- Peenya II stage
      2007 Karle International Unit-2, Mallarabanavadi

Other Business Companies
      1997-Karle Properties
      1998-Cymbio Pharma Pvt Ltd
      2005-Karle Health Sciences Pvt Ltd
      2007-Karle Infra Projects Pvt Ltd
      2007- ETI Karle Klinical Pvt Ltd
      2007-Karle Packaging Pvt Ltd




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN             8         NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


DIFFERENT UNITS




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   9   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


HEAD OFFICE and LTK Unit 1

KARLE GROUP OF COMPANIES
#151, INDUSTRIAL SUBURB,
YESHWANTHPUR,
BANGALORE - 560022
INDIA
Tel: +91-080-23475212, 41285311-15
Fax: 91-80-23374729
Website: www.karlegroup.com




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   10   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


New Head Office, ETI, KHS and Sampling Unit

NO.71 / 72, INDUSTRIAL SUBURB, WARD NO.10, NEAR ULLAS THEATRE, 1ST
BLOCK RAJAJINAGAR, BANGALORE – 560 010.
TEL: +91 – 080-2357 7460, 3250 4549,
FAX: +91 – 080 – 23474729




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   11      NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


L T KARLE & CO (UNIT II)

#SURVEY NO.46/2, SHED NO.4, MADANAYAKANAHALLI TUMKUR ROAD,
BANGALORE NORTH
TEL: 23712341/23712338




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   12   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


KARLE INTERNATIONAL-1

NO. 73, NAGASANDRA VILLAGE TUMKUR ROAD, BANGALORE – 560 073
TEL: 28399046/28395161




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   13    NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


L T KARLE & CO., (UNIT IV)

NO. V 77 & 78, INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, PEENYA 2nd STAGE,
BANGALORE - 560 058




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   14           NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


KARLE INTERNATIONAL – II

SURVEY NO. 26/1, 26/2, 27/2, MALLAR BANAVADI, KUNIGAL
ROAD, NELAMANGALA TALUK,
BANGALORE RURAL DIST
TEL: 27700493/ 27700568




Production Capacity

S. No.     Facility                       No of Machines       Quantity per
                                                                   month
1          KI -I                         750                150,000
2          KI- II                        1100               285,000
3          LTK-II                        275                73,000
4          LTK-IV                        350                90,000
Total                                    2475               598,000




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN          15         NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


CORE COMPETENCE OF KARLE GROUP
      Know the Job:- Over 38 years of expertise in Garment Manufacturing
      Ensure quality: - All 4 factories are ISO 9001 -2008 certified.
      Capacity: - four factories capable of manufacturing 600,000 garments a month.
      Integrated manufacturing: All the activities of garment manufacturing are
       carried out in-house to ensure quality and consistency
      Competency: trained manpower to carry out the work.
      Customer Satisfaction: More than 80% business come from existing customers



CORE VALUES
      Deep respect for individuals and ecosystem
      Deliver excellent quality to stakeholders and society at large
      Be a responsible corporate and social citizen
      Commitment to honesty and transparency
      Respect for democratic process, change and joy.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                 16           NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


KARLE & CO – DEPARTMENTS:


                                      APPAREL


                MANAGING PARTNERS GROUP EXECUTIVE BOARD




   OPERATIONS                    PRE PRODUCTION         SUPPORT
                                                       FUNCTIONS
      KARLE                          COSTING
     EXPORTS                                             HUMAN
                                                       RESOURCES
      LTK - 1                         PRODUCT
                                    DEVELOPMENT        ADMINISTRATION
      LTK - 2
                                    SAMPLING
                                                       COMPLIANCE
      LTK - 4
                                    MERCHANDISING
                                                        FINANCE &
       KI - 1                                           ACCOUNTS
                                      SOURCING &
       KI - 2                          PURCHASE        INFORMATION
                                                           TECH
                                    MATERIALS
                                     (STORES)          SYSTEM &
                                                         AUDIT
                                     RMQA
                                                       MAINTAINANCE
                                    CPQAD              & UTILITY M/C

                                                       MAINTAINANCE
                                    EXLM - HO           PRODUCTION

                                     C&F -             MARKETING
                                    CHENNAI
                                                       COST CONTROL




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN            17    NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


 CORPORATE –HR ORGANOGRAM




                                   KARLE GROUP OF
                                     COMPANIES
                                  MANAGING PARTNERS




                                    CHIEF PEOPLE
                                       OFFICE
                             GENERAL MANAGER HUMAN
                                   RESOURCE


  TALENT              TALENT            LEARNING &      PERSONAL            GROUP
ACQUISITION         MANAGEMENT         DEVELOPMENT    DEVELOPMENT         FACILITIES




 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN        18       NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


TOP MANAGEMENT
Group Executive Board Members [GEB]
      Mr. Sudharshan Karle – Managing Partner
      Mr. Mahendra Karle – Managing Partner
      Mr. P.P.Madappa – Senior Group Advisor



Corporate Management Council Members [CMC]
      Mr. Chandramowly – Chief People Officer
      Mr. Gururaj Bhat – Chief Financial Officer
      Mr. Gokal Chittaranjan – Chief Executive
      Mr. V.K.Kumar – Chief Financial Officer(Karle Infra Projects)
      Dr. M.V.Nagendra – Chief Principal Investigator (ETI Karle Clinical)



Business Units & Heads
      Apparel Sample Making – Mr. K.S.Prasanna (Partner)
      Apparel Production – Mr. Gokal Chittaranjan ( Chief Executive Manufacturing)
      Karle Integrated Packaging – Mr. Sunil Betigeri (Head Packaging Unit)
      Cymbio Pharma Pvt ltd – Mr. Sadyojatha A.M (Deputy G.M)
      Karle Health Sciences Pvt. ltd – Mr. Louis Menezes (Senior Vice President)
      ETI Karle Clinical Pvt ltd – Dr. M.V.Nagendra ( Chief Principal Investigator )
      Karle Properties – Mr. Srinivas Deshpande (Advisor)
                                Mr. Gopala Krishna (Senior Executive)
      Karle Infra Projects – Mr. Mahlanna Sasalu (Chief Operating Officer)
                                    o Mr. V.K.Kumar (Chief Financial Officer)




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                19            NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


         ORGANIZATION CHART:

                                                General
                                                Manager



                                          Unit Head




 P.M         I.E             P.E           System                 Cutting in        Finishing in   Unit
                                           Controller             charge            charge         HR


                                                           Cutter/                 Finishing
                                                           Layers /                supervisor
                       Asst System controller              Helpers

                                                                                  Checkers /
                                                                                  packers/
                                                           CAD                    spot
                                                           operators/P            washers/
Bundle       Feeding          Producti          Washin
                                                           roduction              alteration
movers       helpers          on clerk          g helper
                                                           writers/Em             tailors
                                                           broidery
                                                           Asst

                                                                                  Ironers
                                                           Panel
                                                           checking
                                                           Supervisor
                                                                                  Production
                                                                                  writter

                                                           Numbering
                                                           helper
                                                           /Recutters/
                                                           Sorting
                                                           helpers/Pan
                                                           el checkers




         LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN              20                NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


CLIENTS:

      ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH
      LANDS END
      ANN TAYLOR
      TOMMY HILFIGER
      SEARS
      AMERICAN EAGLE
      HOLLISTER
      NIKE
      ADIDAS
      LEVIS


MAJOR CLIENTS (for the last year):




                                               32%
           39%                                                 Eddie Bauer
                                                               Nordstorm
                                                               Land's End
                                                               Ann Taylor
                                              15%
                            14%




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   21          NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


PRODUCT RANGE IN LTK-2

      HEAVY JACKETS
      LIGHT JACKETS
      SKIRTS
      TRENCH COATS
      CASUAL BLAZERS
      WIND SHETTERS


       Men’s and Women’s wear


              L.T LARLE is known for their jackets in the global market and amongst
               the Indian garment exporters


              Ann Taylor has awarded LT Karle NO.1 for their quality and production
               in Asia.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN           22            NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




                          SAMPLING DEPARTMENT




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   23     NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
The sampling department at L. T. Karle is a massive structure where samples for their
most valuable clients are made. The four main clients that are handled in the sampling
unit are:

       Ann Taylor
       Lands‟ end
       Eddie Bauer
       Nordstrom
The sampling department consists of the design team, processes like cad, pattern making,
cutting, production, finishing, inspection, fitting of the garment etc.

Quality Objectives:

       100% sample exit as per buyer requirement of quality and time
       100% sample approval within 2 fit rounds
       100% correct pattern release to production unit
       100% correct pattern release to production unit as per stipulated time
       Sample rejection <1.5%
       Internal audit performance >90%



The different kind of samples made is:

       Proto/ concept samples
       Fit samples
       Pre production sample
       Garment package test sample
       Size set samples
       Salesman sample
       Photo shoot sample




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                 24                 NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


       ORGANIZATIONAL CHART OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT


                                         HOD Sampling




                                Assistant Mgr Admin & scheduling                  A



                                           Technician




Pattern Makers               Sewing                 QA                   Coordinators
                           supervisors




   Pattern
  assistants
                            Feeding          Iron Operators        Operators            Special
                            helpers                                                     machine oprts



                Cutters




               Assistant




       LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN             25             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


                                          A




          Digitizers                 Sub store                    Maintenance
                                     Assistants                      Head




                                                                  Maintenance
                                                                   mechanics



SAMPLE MAKING PROCESS

Objective: to make the required samples on time as per buyer specifications

Scope: this procedure is applicable for making samples for all buyers

Responsibilities:

      Merchandising department:         Furnishing the controlled techpack, sampling
       indent, materials, trim cards, and shrinkage reports for making samples.
      Materials department: Providing raw materials for making samples as per
       sampling indent.
      Sampling department: make samples as per requirement and as per time and
       action calendar and also provide the necessary information to the production unit.

The tech pack received by sampling has the following:

              Tech pack description:-

               The tech pack consists of the following details.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               26            NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


              Style folder description:-

               All the possible details like brand name development number, style name,
               fit, pattern number and other minute details are included in this folder.

              Details & picture:-

               The waist cut whether bias or contour with the GARMENT is represent
               here. The place where maximum stitch is requires this fixing of the other
               additional trims to be added to be through a diagram.

              Fabric details:-

               The fabric group, main fabric, pocketing fabric is represented with
               development number & code with the supplier reference. The weight,
               width, composition quality & size are marked here.

              Thread details:-

               The details of threads used are given with the code number. For e.g.:-,
               main thread (41), navy thread (120), white thread (122), black thread
               (125,126). The number‟s given in the bracket are the code numbers for
               each colors which identifies the particular shade of the color. If the quality
               specification is number given, it should be identified & conferred with the
               buyer.

               e.g.:- thickness (30tkt, 50tkt, 75tkt, 100tkt) 30 thicker, 100 finer, quality
               cotton, poly, spun poly, rayon, poly-most strength, rayon-poor strength.

              Packing details:-

               The details given here are about box & plastic bag with their respective
               code number‟s, & RMN description or details.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                27             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Different methods of packing:-

                      Dead man fold.

                      Stand up pack.

                      Hanger pack.

Zipper & Hardware

Zipper details include zipper chine zipper slider, zipper top stop, and zipper bottom stop
with their color description. Generally gold & silver would be the preferable colors.

                      Zipper band.

                      Zipper teeth.

                      Puller.

                      Stopper.

For men‟s garments zipper teeth comes in metal but in children‟s GARMENT.

It comes in plastic. The advantage is it comes with lock & unlocks system.

Comment sheet:-

              Additional care label order of destination is attached to addition care label.

              Additional text on care label.



The made “…………….” (Country of manufacturing) is represented here.

It should be numbered that care label for destination should be only in English.

              Polish hand tag.

The detail specified here are source plant & country. e.g.:-79000 15.-marocco.These are
the following details include waist band button fastener denim with their code numbers &
colors.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                28              NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Labelhandbags & miscellaneous:-

This detail includes HPL, woven label leather patch, care label size ticket& style label
with code number‟s color description & other details. Miscellaneous includes details of
bias tape & fusing tape with their code numbers & color.

After Wash Measurements:-

The after wash measurements waist, thigh, knee, bottom, inseam, Front rise, back rise.
Zip leant mettle, fly opening are given. The after wash measurement increase or decrease
according to the type of Fabric.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN             29             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


CHECK LIST OF ITEMS/ REPORTS TO BE SENT ALONG WITH
SAMPLES

1. Proto/ PPR/ CR1
Package offered to Buyer QA

      Proto Samples
      Measurements and Comments of internal QA
      Tech pack
      Pattern Tracing
      Trim Card
      Fabric Shrinkage Report
      Samples Review Sheet
Package sent to Buyer

      Proto Samples
      Measurements and Comments of external QA
      Tech pack signed by Buyer QA
      Pattern Tracing
      Sample Review Sheet


2. Fit/ PPR/ CR2

Package offered to Buyer QA

      Fit Samples
      Measurements and Comments of internal QA
      Tech pack
      Pattern Tracing
      Pinned Sample
      Trim Card
      Wash Standard & Wash Recipe
      Pattern Superimpose


LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN        30   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


        Samples Review Sheet
Package sent to Buyer

        Fit Samples
        Measurements and Comments of external QA
        Tech pack signed by Buyer QA
        Pattern Tracing
        Pinned Sample
        Sample Review Sheet

3.       PPS/ QRS/ Counter Sample
Package offered to Buyer QA

        PP Samples
        Measurements and Comments of internal QA
        Tech pack
        Pattern Tracing
        Nested Pattern
        Buyer agent approved Trim Card
        Mini marker
        Cut Patterns
        Wash Standards & Wash Recipe
        GPT Report
        Samples Check List
        Superimpose
Package sent to Buyer

        PP Samples
        PPS Report
        Pattern Tracing
        Sample Check List
Package sent to the Unit



LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN          31   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


        Sealed PP Sample
        Sealer Report
        Pattern Tracing
        Sample Check List

4.       Size Set

Package offered to Buyer QA

        Size Set garments
        Size Set Report of internal QA
        Bulk Shrinkage Report
        Pattern Tracing
        Approved Wash Standards (Wash Recipe if applicable)
        Samples Check List



Package sent to the Unit

        Size Set garments
        Size Set report of external QA
        Full Set Patterns
        Sample Check List




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN            32           NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


  CAD DEPARTMENT (SAMPLING SECTION)
  Process Flow:

                                   Blocks (sent by Buyer)


                                         Measurement &
                                         Specifications



Pattern Preparation (Manually- 4                               Pattern Preparation On
       tables are present)                                          CAD system.


            Digitization

                                                                   Inspection of
                                                                     Patterns
                                Amendments



                                                                Marker Preparation



                                                                   Inspection of
                                                                      Marker
                                Amendments

                       Cutting (according to Cutting Indent
Stitching              received from Merchandising Dept.)             Plotting



Sample Inspection              Sent to                                 Redesign of
                                                    Comments
against Tech pack              Buyer                                    Patterns




  LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                  33       NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Applications:

      Marker Preparation (done by Pattern Making & Marking Team)
      Fabric Costing (done by Fabric Costing Executives- 2 members)


Costing (Process Flow):



                                     Marker Development

                                 Calculation of average fabric
                                  consumption for a garment


                                 Calculation of different losses


                                     Estimation of Fabric
                                         Requirement


                                        Fabric Costing



Software Used:

Gerber-8.2




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN             34              NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Work instructions for the preparation of pattern-making

1. Make the initial pattern
          Use the sloper/ tech pack/ sketch provided by buyer.
          Make pattern to hit specifications given, use how to measure manual to arrive
           at measurement given in specification sheet.
          Check with Bill Of Material (BOM), to make patterns for shell, trims,
           interlinings, poly-fills etc.
          Provide correct sewing margin.
          Provide notches, where required and match all seams.
          Mark the grain line.
          Mark all placements- pockets, labels, embroidery or patch etc.
          Make marking pattern.
          Check that the pattern is according to construction sheet, sketch and sample.
          Prepare the cutter's must and compare with BOM (i.e. in case of change
           between colour ways- should be mentioned in cutter's must).
          Write style no., size, name of the pattern, cut quantity and pattern-version.
          Prepare pattern check report for measurements, seam matching and notches.
          Refer to shrinkage reports. In case of shrinkage/ elongation incorporate it as
           soft/ hard patterns as applicable.
          Clarify with technician in case of doubts.


2. Do as follows if check report does not meet the buyer’s specifications
          Measure the proto garment to find out whether there was an error in
           measuring as measurement by QA.
          Determine whether error is in measurement or in parts that are mismatched.
          Compare fabric report with shrinkage & elongation report.
          Compare actual fusing, ironing shrinkage/ elongation with lab reports.
          Take corrective action.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                  35           NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


3. Repeat the process till we get a proto that in all respect is correct and can be sent to
    buyer for the review. Put the seal of version on the patterns
4. Once the buyer gives the comment the first sample the following needs to be done
           Study the comments, compare with the proto sample to understand the
            requirement.
           Study the mock sent by buyer and compare with the proto sample.
           Compare comments from buyer on specifications with proto and QA audit
            report.
           Study „how to correct‟ instructions from buyer to understand the
            requirements.
           Compare the above comments with P.V.O and identify the area to be
            corrected.
           Develop a new pattern called fit pattern (P.V.I).
           Check whether the new pattern made tally with the revised measurement
            chart & if all the comments have been incorporated, mention it on the
            comment sheet.
           Check P.V.I and pattern check report.
           Destroy previous version hard pattern and maintain in soft copy.
           Repeat the above process till fit sample is approved.
5. After receiving the approval for fit samples (PPS- preproduction samples), the
    final approved pattern must be graded to cover the size range.
           Follow the grade rules specified by buyer in the tech pack.
           Grades are the sizes required by buyer.
           Make block patterns, if required (depending on fabric report)
           Check all the sizes comparing them with each other to see that grading as per
            grading rule.
           Prepare pattern check report for each size to ensure all measurements are
            tallying with measurement chart.
           Write all reference no., pattern version, name of pattern, number of cut, style
            no, grain line etc.



LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                36            NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


           Make multiple patterns for wash garments (depending on the % of shrinkage
            and group of fabric according to shrinkage)




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN              37          NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




                   SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   38   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


CUTTING
CUTTING SECTION AT KI-1
The cutting department at KI-1 is stationed at the second floor and it has state of the art
garment spreading and cutting machines. There are 2 types of cutting carried out at KI-1,
mainly:
      Manual spreading
      Machine spreading




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               39             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


The cutting section also has within it the CAD department, the re-cutting department, it
has sections for checking, numbering, and panel checking and sorting.

Cutting is done with the help of the CNC Gerber cutter (automated) and manually
through straight knife and band knife systems.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN             40             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


ORGANIZATION CHART

                                           Cutting manager




      Asst Incharge                        CAD executive                            CNC technician


                   Heat sealers
                                            CAD operator
                                                                    CNC operator            Supervisor
                                                                                            spreading
               P. writer                    CAD assistant

                                                                          Helper
                                                                                               CNC
                                                                                             spreader
                Cutter


                                                                                             Helper
                Layer


           Runner / body
         embroidery/ printing




              Supervisor




  Numbering          P.           Helper      Sorting             Re               Fusing      Cutting
    helper        checking                   Bundling            cutter            helper       issuer
                   helper                     helper




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                      41                 NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


CUTTING SECTION AT LTK-2
The cutting section consists of the production in charge, cutting supervisor, cutter,
damage cutter, lay girls, lay helpers & clerk for record maintenance. The production in
charge is the person responsible for the entire cutting department. Objective of cutting is
to separate fabric parts as replica of pattern pieces in marker plan.
For fulfilling this requirement cutting master plays a vital role. As the major cost of the
garment is in the fabric, accounting to 60 % of the total cost, so it is very essential that
actual usage of fabric is slightly controlled by scientific methods & procedures.


Furniture & Fixtures:
   1. Fabric laying table
   2. Weight
   3. Numbering stickers
   4. Lay paper sheet
   5. Bundle card
   6. Clamps
   7. Pencil
   8. Patterns
   9. Scissors
   10. Storage- racks & trolleys.
   11. Measuring tape


QUALITY OBJECTIVES:
100% achievement of planned batch production efficiency.
Cost / minute: Rs 1.45/-
Wage: Rs 0.874 per attended minute.
Compliance audit score > 80%
Internal audit performance > 90%
Attrition rate = <5%




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                 42               NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Stores, spreading and cutting layout




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   43   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   44   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Cutting department AQL =1.5


CUTTING (PATTERN SEPERATION ACCORDING TO SHRINKAGE %)


                      PATTERN                     COLOUR
                      A
                      B
                      C
                      D
                      E
                      F
                      G

The pattern for easy identification is differentiated with the help of different coloured
stickers
When the fabric swatches are sent for washing the shrinkage % of each lot is observed
and depending the shrinkage of each lot and depending on which lot fabric is issued
ffrom time to time the cutting QA accordingly gives the pattern
This colored sticker method is an in house innovation which is very user friendly and is
followed till date.



FORMATS AVAILABLE IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:
              Cutting check list
              Laying check list
              Bundle identification
              Bundle checking or recutting reports
              Lay record
              Daily production status report




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                45          NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


STAFF IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT
         Cutting supervisor
         Cutting head
         CAD operator
         Pattern maker
         QA
         QA assistant
         Production writer
         Cutting issuer
         Cutters
         Re –cutters
         Layers
         Sorting helpers
         Embroidery assistant
         Helpers
         Panel checkers




Machines available in C/S:
Machine                     Model         Make           Quantity


Straight knife              Streak -II    East man       5
Band knife                  STV-376       Wastema        2
End cutters                 EC-3          East man       4
Drilling                    Dz3-ID        Dalian         2
Plotter                     GGT ACCUPLOT Gerber          1
                            100
Fusing machine              HBP FA 700    Fiblon         1




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN             46   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Fusing machine (complete automatic)
Korea fiblon
The machine is divided into
       Belt speed
       Temperature
       Pressure
       ON/OFF main
       Upper /lower heat temperature
       Regulator


Fusing material strength is calculated using fusometer
This is used to check the bond strength
       The machine is japan‟s obha siki


For example:
Fuse line temperature observed:125 degrees centigrade
Bond strength :400 gms
Duration :15 secs
Pressure :3 khr




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN              47   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




                                 SEWING DEPARTMENT




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN     48        NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


SEWING
Sewing department is where the actual production takes place. The batch should be set
according to the style . The batch is set based upon the previous time study. The
production target for each day is set according to the time study done by IED in order to
meet the shipment day.


The layout set up in this factory was batch & assembly(ETON) layout. The batch layout
is where parts like collar, cuff , front etc are prepared and assembly is where all the batch
parts are assembled. As soon as the bundles comes to the sewing section, the production
process starts.


QUALITY OBJECTIVES:


100 % achievement of planned batch production efficiency.
Cost / minute = 1.45 /-
Wage = Rs 0.874 per attended per minute
Compliance audit score > 80%
Internal audit performance > 90%
Unauthorized absenteeism < 2%
Attrition rate : < 5%




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                49              NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Sewing section layout:




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   50   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


SEWING:
       Every tailor is graded
       A=Rs 4500
       B=Rs 4000
       C=Rs 3800


ORGANISATION CHART:


                                        AGM




        Production                       Finishing                     Production
         manager                         incharge                       executive


                                        Supervisor          PE Asst           System
  Floor incharge        Pattern maker                                        controller

                                               Checker
                                                                       Asst system
    APM                                                                 controller
                                                Ironer
  Supervisor
                                                                      Finishing
                                                Helper                 helper

  Tailor       Helper       Operator           Finishing
                                                helper                 Batch
                                                                       mover
                                                 Poly
                                                packer                 Production
                                                                        bank asst
                                                 Spot
                                                 wash

                                               Alt tailor

                                               Production
                                                 writer



LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN           51              NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


PROCESS FLOW CHART:


                          Receipt of production file from PE


                                   Preparation of unit PPS


                                 Unit PPS approval QAM


                                 Receipt of machine layout


                                      Internal PPM


                                      External PPM

       Cutting /ROM
             CS                                                 Accessories from
                                                                     stores


                                         Batch setting


                                       Load pilot run


                                  Approval of pilot runs by
                                 QAM/CPQAD/BUYER QA


                                       Bulk loading


                             Monitor production as per target

                                    End line checking

                      Accountings & handover to system controller



LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                52          NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)



   LTK-2 MACHINE LIST

                                                                                                                  Machin
                                                                                  TOT                             e
                                                               TRAINI             AL    SEN   Tot                 brought
                                                           R   NG       FINISHI   IN    T     al                  from
                 LINE   LINE   LINE   LINE   LINE   LINE   &   SECTI    NG/       UNI   OU    in    ALLO          other
   TYPE          -1     -2     -3     -4     -5     -6     D   ON       Cutting   T     T     use   TED           unit

                                                           3
   S/N           27     26     30     26     23     26     2   10       8         208         208   587    -379   24

                                                           1
S/N EC           3      2      1      1      1      1      6   0        0         25          25    93     -68


   D/N           16     15     15     10     15     15     0   0        0         86          86    124    -38


   D/N CS        1      0      0      0      3      0      1   0        0

                                                           2
   O/L           1      0      1      6      3      1      8   3        1         44          44    112    -68


   BUTTON        0      0      0      0      0      0      0   0        3         3           3     19     -16


   B/HOLE        0      0      0      0      0      0      5   0        0         5           5     17     -12


   B.TAKE        1      1      2      1      1      1      1   0        1         9           9     28     -19


   KEY.HOLE      1      1      1      1      1      0      0   0        0         5           5     7      -2


   12/N          2      1      0      2      1      0      5   0        0         11          11    0      11


   F/OF ARM      0      1      0      0      1      1      0   0        0         3           3     0      3


   BLIND H       0      0      0      0      0      0      0   0        0         0           0     0      0


   WELT          0      0      0      0      0      0      0   0        0         0           0     3      -3


   XY TACKER     1      1      0      0      0      0      0   0        0         2           2     2      0


   FLAT LOCK     1      0      1      0      0      0      1   0        0         3           3     3      0


   SNAP          2      0      2      0      0      0      0   0        0

   FEGGOTING
   M/C           0      0      0      0      0      0      5   0        0




               LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                       53           NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


The sewing floor has 6 lines
A- Shift batch
B- Regular batch
C- Regular batch
D- Regular batch
E- Shift batch
F-regular batch


Shift batch the batch runs for 16 hours in a day
6 am to 2pm and 2.30 to 10.30pm
2:00 – 2.30 (lunch for shift batch)


The other batches run for 8 ½ hrs and lunch is from 1pm – 1.30pm
Lunch timing for other departments is 1.30-2.00pm
A batch is in one line has 46 machines
B batch is divided into two lines in two different places has 44 machines
C batch is divided into two lines in two different places 49 machines
D batch is in one line has 43 machines
E and f are divided into parts n assembly has 50 and 46 machines respectively.
After parts stitching before it goes to assembly each line has a parts bank where they
store the parts which will then be loaded into the assembly line which is switch track
system.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               54             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


General Manager
      Governs the entire unit
      Head of the entire unit
      Analysis the monthly reports and directly works with the AGM
      Discusses the problems to the development team
      Plays an integral role in evaluation meeting of the entire organization
      Coordinates with chief executive officer about the progress and the issues
      Gets the highest salary in the unit


Assistant general manager
      Is like a factory manager and has roles of a factory manager
      Governs the entire production from top
      Starting from procurement to shipment
      Target is to reach the shipment date
      Production manager addresses to the AGM
      Reporting to the GM
      Unit monthly planning to be prepared by AGM
      Order tracking and discuss about the ppm dates etc
      Monthly turnover report to be generated by AGM


Production manager:
      To look after the production in terms of quantity
      Look after the employees in the batch
      Supervise the APM‟S
      Making sure the target production is reached at the desired time
      Coming up with immediate solutions to problems
      Keeping a track on production in all the lines
      Making changes in PPM if necessary
      Try to reach the unit‟s objectives



LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                  55            NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


      Approve the daily OVER TIME reports produced by production writers


APM
      Direct the supervisors
      Head of the entire batch
      Have to handle and solve all the problems of the batch
      Have to report to the PM
      Have to make sure that the batch reaches the required target
      Plays an important role in pilot runs
      Approves daily DPR
      Helps the IE in line balancing
      Integral part in PPM


SUPERVISORS
      Directly interacts to the tailors
      First hand experience in batch problems
      Always on the floor
      Helps in time study
      Checks on the production and quality hourly
      Takes care of the tailors
      Can increase the tailors salary if finds them worth
      Rates the tailors


SYSTEM CONTROLLER
It is a department where the system controlling head takes care of movement of
      Cutting panels
      Parts bank
      Finished garments




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               56               NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


      Cutting panels once it is out of the cutting department the system controller has to
       the sign the report which has the details of the number of panels coming to the
       shop floor
      And it has to tally to the report generated by the sewing department
      Any case of missing panels the system controller has to recheck and analyse or
       else this department will be held responsible
      In case of parts bank it has to keep a track on the parts going from parts batch to
       assembly
      In case of finished goods
      It has to keep a track on the finished garments going to the finishing department
       and from there to washing to the head office if necessary




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                 57           NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




                                 FINISHING DEPARTMENT




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN      58      NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


FINISHING


Finishing section consists of the various operations like trimming, ironing, measurement
checking, folding is carried out. In trimming operation sides of the pocket, seams, cuffs
(if any) i.e. tiny extensions of the thread are trimmed to give a uniform and finished look
to the garment. After trimming the general checking is done to see the above processes
are carried out correctly or not. Ironing is done to set crease wherever required and to
remove unwanted wrinkles. This gives a finished look to the garment. After ironing the
garment is sent for final checking where the garment is finally checked for any flaws and
defects. After the final checking the garments are sent for measurement checking before
the folding operation, here the garment is checked for its measurements against originals.
This step is the last operation in finishing which is folding, this includes fastening of all
the tags in proper fashion and folding the garment as per the buyer‟s requirement.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                59             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Finishing section layout




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   60   NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


PROCESS FLOW CHART: FINISHING SECTION


                     Receipt of production file & packing approval


                       Receipt of garments from system controller


                                     Middle checking


                                    AQL inspection


                            Receipt of poly packing approval


                                 De dusting with blower


                                       Pressing


                           De dusting & removal of cut thread


                                 Presentation checking


                                  Measurement checking

                                         Folding


                                        Tagging


                                   Poly bag packing


                                   To packing section




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN              61               NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


PROCESS FLOW CHART: PACKING SECTION


                 Receipt of poly packed garment from finishing section


                                 Sorting out of garments


                                  Cartoning & marking


                                 Packed AQL by CPQAD


                                     Buyer certification


                                       Shipment




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               62          NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


STEP ONE
• Checking label for
A) Style No.
B) PO No.
• Affixing the price tag
• Folding the garment
• Placing folded garment in polythene bag and closing the bag
• One bag will have one garment.


STEP TWO
• All the garments placed in polythene bag will undergo Metal detector test
• Tested garments will be segregated size wise

STEP THREE
• Setting up carton box
• Mentioning product details on the carton box
• Placing the garments into carton box
• Closing and sealing the carton box

• PACKING COMBINATIONS
1) Solid color and solid size
2) Solid color and assorted size
3) Solid size and assorted color.
4) Assorted color and assorted size.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN              63             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


QUALITY ASSURANCE


Ensuring the production of the garment with reference to the standard specification is
known as quality control. Quality of the garment is inspected in various stages from
fabric to finished garment.


Fabric Quality
Once the fabric is received by the stores, it is checked by quality department by 4 point
system. Rejection of fabric should be informed to the supplier before 1 week, in case of
no information from the garment unit, the fabric is considered as accepted by the unit and
the supplier won‟t accept any more rejections. So, quality team should work as soon as
fabric in-house happens.
Common defects found during 4 point inspection
   1. Broken stitches
   2. Contamination
   3. Double pick
   4. Miss weave
   5. Miss end
   6. Stain
   7. Slub
   8. Stop mark
   9. Miss point
   10. Knots
   11. Mend mark




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN              64             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Marker inspection
The marker plan is inspected for quality parameters before cutting operation. The
parameters include marker length, number of parts, garment size as per pattern, markings
as per pattern, grain lines, notches, marker matching one way, position of numbering
places.


Lay inspection
The defects occurring during spreading are inspected after the process. The common
defects obtained are to be minimized and account for the following i.e. lay length, lay
tension, selvedge edge cut, ply height, number of plies, lay alignment etc.


Cut part inspection
Components of the garments are to be cut with dimension of pattern to ensure better
sewing operation. To enhance it some of the common defects that are inspected are
notches, and frayed edges, cut part to pattern check.


Sewing inspection
In this, inspection is done at several stages which are as follows:
         Inline inspection - The sewn parts such as Cuff, sleeve attachment, pocket
          attachment are inspected.

         End – of – line Audit – In this auditing of garment Seams, loops, Cuff attachment,
          and hems.

         Pockets and seams are inspected for defects. The defects identified are: Uneven
          top stitch, broken or skip stitch, wrong SPI, loose tension, marking mismatch etc.

         Label- missing, misplaced, slanted, wrong thread, raw edge, uneven tension etc
          Pocket- Up-down, raw edge, skip, broken or down stitch, uneven topstitch, shade
          variation, puckering




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                  65            NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


        Hem- Improper overlap stitch, roping, puckering, seam mismatch, broken, skip ,
         tension, raw edge
        Side Seam-     Raw edge, puckering, SPI wrong, uneven stitch, wrong thread,
         broken, skip, down stitch

These are mostly occurring defects in garment production. An hourly report is maintained
and accordingly settings are kept in production line. In the final inspection AQL
Standards (according to buyer requirement ) is adopted to maintain quality.


Accepted quality level
It is the maximum quality level with tolerance within which the product can be accepted
for its quality, beyond which the product can be rejected. The following chart is used to
access quality:


                                     AQL
       Lot Size    Sample Size       1.5           2.5               4.0
                                     A     R       A        R        A        R
       2-8         2                 0     1       0        1        0        1
       9-15        3                 0     1       0        1        0        1
       16-25       5                 0     1       0        1        0        1
       26-50       8                 0     1       0        1        1        2
       51-90       13                0     1       1        2        1        2
       91-150      20                1     2       1        2        2        3
       151-280     30                1     2       2        3        3        4




QUALITY OBJECTIVES:
Failed audits % = <5%
End line defects % = < 10%
Cost of poor quality = < 2% of wage bill
Short shipment % = < 0.3%



LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN              66             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




                            MATERIALS DEPARTMENT




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN   67        NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


MATERIALS DEPARTMENT
Responsible for
      Receipt,
      Storage,
      Distribution,
      Record keeping and
      Identifying surplus and deficient quantities of materials.



    1. RECEIPT OF MATERIAL

    When the materials reach the concerned factories, the inward clerk of material
    department check the purchase order, invoice, packing slip etc., to ascertain style
    number, quantity ordered and received, and other specifications of the material.
    Variations if any between ordered material and received will be brought to the notice
    of concerned merchandiser to sort out the matter.


    2. STORING OF MATERIAL

    After receipt the material will be stored properly in the respective stores. Before
    issuing the material for production they have got to be checked/ tested by Raw
    Material Quality Assurance (RMQA) department. Therefore the material to be given
    for RMQA will marked with orange colour sticker. After RMQA test the material
    will be marked with green colour sticker.



    3. ISSUING MATERIAL

    Materials checked by RMQA will be issued to production department for cutting.
    Sometimes material is issued from one factory to another depending upon the factory
    in which a particular style is manufactured. For this purpose the dispatch clerk has to
    prepare delivery challen (DC) and enter in the security counter.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               68             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


    4. SURPLUS/ DEFICIENT MATERIAL STATUS

    Materials department is also responsible for detecting surplus / deficient quantity of
    materials. It will prepare surplus quantity status and advice merchandising
    department to plan for extra garments. In case of deficiency it will follow up with
    import, sourcing and merchandising department to ensure that remaining quantity is
    brought at right time.



    5. PROCEDURE FOR IMPORTED MATERIAL

    Apart from the procedure mentioned above additional formalities have to be
    completed in respect of imported material. When the material arrives at the
    respective factories the security department will break open the seal of consignment.
    Important documents like packing slip, invoice, bill of entry etc., will be checked by
    inward clerk of materials department. For each imported consignment get a bond
    number allotted by customs department through EXIM department. The bond
    number has to be entered in the inward register.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                 69          NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


STORES
EOU
DTA
       EXPORT ORIENTED UNITS ARE
           o LTK-4
           o KI-2
       DUTY TARRIF AREA
           o LTK-2
           o KI-1

DTA pays duties entirely and gets the fabric
EOU does not pay the duties and get the fabric; it is as if the fabrics are with customs
dept


DTA cannot give fabric to EOU
EOU can give fabrics to DTA


EOU – export oriented unit
DTA – domestic traffic area


Fabric stores
The fabric is issued, stored and inspected here. The fabric is only stored, relaxed and
issued to the production floor after cutting. The inspection of the fabric is done here.

The fabric is inspected using 4 – point defects system. Here 100% fabric inspection is
done.

The formula used to calculate total points are:

A – Total defect points observed.

Net points = (A x 10000)/ (width in cms x length in meters).
If this value is greater than 22, than the roll is rejected.



LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                70              NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Trims stores
The store maintains both capital and non-capital requirements of the factory. The capital
requirements of the factory are concerned with the files for maintenance records, data
storage devices, and computers etc. The non-capital requirements are the products used
for the garment production. The products are sewing threads, labels, zippers, accessories,
trims, rivets, fasteners etc. these materials are to be sourced / acquired as per buyer‟s
requirement before the actual production.


Furniture & Fixtures
   a) Store Racks
   b) Trim Storing Racks
   c) Fabric Inspection Machine


QUALITY OBJECTIVES:
      100% of time materials issued to sampling with in the stipulated time.
      100% of the time submission of trim cards with in the stipulated time.
      100% upto date maintenance of store records.
      100% submission of counting report with in the stipulated time.


   Head office team ;
    Clearance of materials shortage and rejections for all the counting reports within the
   stipulated time.
   100% time stock confirmation with in the stipulated time from the left out bonds.


   DTA units :
   100% of times submission of counting reports with in the stipulated time.
   100% planning of extra garments in stage 3.
   Zero % production loss due to materials department




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN              71             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


   EOU units :
   100% of time submission of counting reports within the stipulated time.
   100% planning of extra garments in stage 3
   100% updation of regulatory and statutory records.
   Zero % production loss due to material departments.



NIKE
Sampling plan chart
Woven fabrics yards/mts                     Inspection quantity
less than 2000 yards                        One roll or 10% which ever is >
(1,800mts)
2001 to 20,000 yds                          10%
(1,801-18,000mts)
20001-50000 yds                             5%
(18001-46000mts)
Over 50000 yds                              3%
(46001 mts)



Knit fabrics                                Inspection quantity
less than 2000 yards                        One roll or 10% which ever is >
(1,800mts)
2001 to 5000 yds                            10%
(1,801-4600mts)
Over 2000yds                                3%




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN             72             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Nike acceptable point
Fabric type                      Ind roll pts/100 yds        Shipment points


Woven fabric                     20                          20
Warp knit                        20                          20
Knit fabric                      25                          20
(open or tubular)




Acceptance criteria Tommy
Fabric type                      Roll point /100 yds         Shipment points
Woven fabric                     28                          20
Knits                            36                          30




L.T KARLE sampling plan



FABRIC                           ROLL POINT                  SHIPMENT POINT
Woven /knitted                   20                          20




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                  73        NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


             ORGANISATION CHART:
                                                HOD STORES



                                              EXECUTIVE STORES




     JUNIOR
     EXECUTIVE                                                            DOCUMENTATION
     PLANNING TEAM                                                        TEAM




Computer
operator                       Senior
                               assistant                                                   Senior
                               fabric and                                                  assistant DC &
                               accessories                                                 Annexure
 Senior                                                                                    stock
 assistant
 Material
 issues
                                                                                          Senior
                                                                                          assistant
                                                                                          inward



Assistant field
work


                                                                                          Helpers
                         Senior                                   Senior
                         assistant                                assistant fabric
                         accessories

                         Assistant                                Assistant
                         accessories                              fabric




             LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN          74               NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


PROCESS FLOW CHART – INWARD PROCESS:

                                                 Stores


                                          Receipt Order Status


                                    Receipt of Bill Of Materials - QAMS


                                   Prepare material Requirement Plan


                                          Receipt Of Consignment


                                              Inward Process


                       Package verification against Supplier Invoice / Packing Unit


                                             Inhouse Status Report




            Lab Test              Forward counting report to merchandising               Trim card
                                           through HO materials



    Pass                   Fail              Inspection process               Approved          Rejected



           Quality check
                                      Pass                        Fail


 Generation of counting
        Report
                                     Conditionally approved by                          Rejected
                                        RMQAM / Buyer

  Forward counting report                                                Inform to purchase executive
          to HO

                                                                           Storage in rejected area
                                               Send it back to
 Storage of passed materials                     suppliers
                                                                           Disposal after 6 months




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                           75             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




            Updated MRP



       Balance material status
             follow up



       Forward bills to account for payment


           Issues to sub stores with issue slip




     Issue of fabric to cutting section            Issues of trims to production
           based on lay record                            based on MRS



      Receipt of end bits from cutting            Receipt of left out materials from
                  section                                    production




            Recutting process                                     OCR




                   OCR




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN            76               NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


PROCESS FLOW CHART – IUT

                                                Stores


                               Receipt of loading schedule from HO


                                   Receipt of Bill Of Materials - QAMS


                                     Update status to production


                                           Receipt Of Materials


                                            Inward Process


                  Package verification against packing list for weight & no of packages




       Materials received with ispection                 Materials received without inspection


        Generate in house status report
                                                      Lab test                   Trim card for accessories



  Storage of materials          Forward ISI to In
       style wise                 house unit &           Yes         No            pass
                                 materials - HO                                                  Rejected


                                                                      To be inspected



                                                                       Inspection process




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                         77              NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




              Inspection pass                                            Inspection fail


           Quality checking
                                             Conditionally approved by                      Rejected
                                                       buyer
            Counting report
                                                                                Storage in rejected Area

     Forward CR to materials Dpt –
       HO – CC to inhouse unit
                                                                          Send the materials to inhouse
                                                                            unit with counting report

      Storage of passed material



           Updated MRP



         BMS follow up


     Update status to production



       Issues to sub store with issue slip




   Issues of fabric to cutting                  Issues of trims to production
  section based on lay record                          based on MRS



    Receipt of end bits from                        Receipt of left over
        cutting section                           materials from production


       Recutting process
                                                               OCR

            OCR




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                         78                 NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Stores
Objective: Receipt, storage and issue of raw materials and packing materials in order to
ensure smooth production


Scope:
This procedure is applicable for receipt storage and issue of all types of raw materials


Responsibility:
        merchandising department
        Import department
        Raw material quality assurance
        Materials department


Materials department: depending on the documents from merchandiser through materials
department HO on receipt of order status
Based on BOM stores planning team shall prepare the following documents
        MRP
        Running length material work sheet
        Thread work sheet




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                79             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


IUT PROCESS
Production unit shall collect the following documents from-HO materials department on
receipt of loading schedule
      Production file
      Carton box work sheet
      Poly bag work sheet


MRP and thread worksheet shall be prepared by the unit
Storage of accepted items
       Storage if failed items (identified by blue sticker)
       Storage of conditionally approved items (C.A on the blue sticker)
       Storage of rejected items (red sticker)
       Once in 6 months review for decision on disposal




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN              80         NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


PROCESS FLOW CHART – TRIMS


                                 Receipt of trims consignment in material department



                                 Collect PO & packaging list from materials Dpt



                                    Send samples to lab & proceed inspection



                                      Trim card – send to merchandiser


                                              Go for inspection – AQL



    Metal detection & heat transfer test                   Pick samples for inspection as per AQL norms



          Fail                                            Do inspection as per laid out instruction

           If fail in any test
                                                           Check lab test report & merchandiser
                                           If no
                                                                     approval report

                                                                                      If yes

         Do not proceed further
       inform HOD & act as per                                        Make inspection report
              instruction                          Pass


                                                                         AQL fail


                      Pass quantity – store in pass                   Do 100% inspection
                            inspection area                               / counting



                                                                     Rejected quantity – store in
                                                                            rejected area



                                                                     Inform HOD for further action




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                              81                NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)



PROCESS FLOW CHART – FABRICS:


                                Receipt of fabric consignment in material department



                                Collect PO & packaging list from materials Dpt



                                                 Send samples to lab


           Wash program
                                                  Swatch cutting


                                                   non wash program


    Send swatches from 100%
   rolls to lab for shrinkage test                      Shade band & colour Run card



                                              Fabric relaxation projection



                                             100% relaxation / ironing & fusing
                                                        shrinkage



                                            Center to selvedge colour verification



                                                     Width measurement


                                     Fabric quality inspection as per 4 point system


        Inform HOD &                 Fail
           act as per                                  Check lab test report
          instruction

                                                      Summary report



                           Take decision about acceptance / rejection by head of RMQA




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                             82                NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)




                                 IE DEPARTMENT




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN    83     NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

Industrial Engineering Department is one of most important department in the industry.
It helps in up gradation of the production department with different types of studies in the
department like capacity, time, production, motion study. To improve the production &
achieve target in time it is setup in batch & SAM (standard allotted minute) is calculated.
IED follows the GENERAL SEWING DATA (GSD) system
Productivity = the ratio of output produced to the input resources utilized in the
production.




QUALITY OBJECTIVES:


100% of time actual SMV shall match with costed SMV with +/- 5% variation (monthly)
100% of time actual thread consumption shall match with costed thread consumption
with +/- 5% variation (monthly).
Preparation for the styles so as to reach learning curve targets min of 95%.
Maintain helper numbers in sewing line as per SMV‟s (with 5% max variation)


Functions of IE department at Karle:

Industrial Engineering (IE) department in Karle Group is located in new head office. It
has two wings. Each of the wings has two teams namely development team working from
head office and Implementation team working at our apparel factories. The department
uses specialized software called GSD (general sewing data).



   1) Feasibility study: The development team studies the tech pack and determines
       whether a particular style is possible to manufacture in our organization
       considering the facilities/resources we have. This information will help the
       organization to decide whether to accept or reject a particular business proposal.




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               84              NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


   2) Time study: The development team studies the time required for manufacturing a
       particular style. For this purpose the various operations involved in a style are
       segregated and time required for performance of each operation is calculated. By
       adding all these time requirements the basic minutes is derived. Another 15% to
       20% time is added as human fatigue to determine the time required for
       manufacturing a garment which is called standard minute value (SMV). This
       information is required by costing, production planning and production
       departments.
   3) Calculating thread consumption: The development team determines the
       requirements of thread for manufacturing a style. This information is required for
       the (a) costing department to arrive at the price to be quoted for the buyer, and (b)
       merchandising department to decide the quantity of thread to be purchased.
   4) Simplifying the style process: The development team works with technicians of
       sampling department to simplify the construction of a garment at the product
       development stage itself.
   5) Making a sample piece at the factory: After the pre production meeting and
       before the pilot run production, the implementation team at the unit will prepare a
       sample piece of the garment to understand the technicalities involved in a style.
       Difficulties if any found at this level will be resolved by discussing with
       development team and sampling department.
   6) Skill matrix for tailors: The implementation team is responsible for preparing
       skill matrix of all the tailors working in the unit. This will help the industrial
       engineers to understand the skill level of each and every tailor so that they can be
       deployed at appropriate places in the production line.
   7) Batch Setting: Before loading a style to production line, the implementation
       team has to ensure that the number of production lines is available, all machines
       are in proper condition and there is sufficient number of trained people to handle
       all the critical operations.
    8) Line Balancing: The implementation team has to study the process involved, the
       time required for each operations, the competent tailors to be placed at each




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               85              NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


       machine of the production line, and the tasks to be performed by each tailors so
       that all the tailors in the line get the work properly distributed.
    9) Actual time study: The SMV calculated by development team is only an estimate
       done in controlled condition at head office The implementation team will actually
       do the time study at the factory after a style is loaded for mass production. This
       will help the I.E. department to ascertain the variation between the SMV
       calculated by development team and the actual time consumed for making a
       garment. It will also help the production planning department to fix the daily
       production targets for the production functionaries.
  10) Daily production report: The implementation team prepares the daily production
       report for each style and sends it to production planning department.


Role of IE


Pre production


Analyze the garment
See the 3 M‟s: MAN MATERIAL AND MACHINE requirement for the particular
garment and quantity
This includes
      Operation break down
      Thread consumption report
      Machine list
      Machine layout




During production
Line balancing
      Theoretical balancing :based on the SMV values
      Dynamic balancing: practical one based on the absenteeism




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                 86              NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Post production
After the production is over the IE has to report to the development team if there has to
be any changes or any kind of problems faced during the production so that those
problems don‟t repeat.
Data analysis is done based on the reports generated
On efficiency, minute, cost, man and machine etc


Thread consumption

Instruction
    1. List down the operation of the garment and enter the type of ink used as per
        GSD.style bulletin in the operations and machine consumption separately.
    2. Measure the scam length of each oper cms using a calibrated measuring tape by
        excluding the margin.
    3. Per each operation add 5cms allowance to the scan length on either side of the
        scan for scan margin and wastage in threading and enter the values in scan length
    4. Enter the number of scans for each operation in frequency collumn.
    5. Refer the ratio chart and enter the ratio for each type of machine / stich type used
        for the operation in the “ratio column.
    6. Calculate thread consumption for each operation by formula given below:
        Thread consumption in cms =SEAM LENGTH X FREQUENCY X RATIO
    7. Add the thread consumption for all operations to obtain total thread consumption
        for garment in cms.
    8. Categorise thread consumption machine wise.
    9. Calculate thread consumption in meters and enter in thread deatails.
    10. Compare thread type colour/quality/stich/density with instructions given in style
        file.
    11. Refer the calculations done and the thread details table to categorise the
        consumption for each thread type enter the values in thread summary.

    THREAD RATIOS AND CONSUMPTION

       Single needle
       SPi                  needle                bobbin                Total ratio

       10-12                1.25                  1.25                  1:2.5

       12-14                1.5                   1.5                   1:3




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN                 87            NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


       Single needle top stitch-thicker thread.
       Spi                 needle               bobbin      Total ratio

       7                      1.5              1.5          1:3

       8                      1.6              1.4          1:3



     Double needle
       Spi                    needle           bobbin       Total ratio

       10-12                  2.5              2.5          1:5

       12-14                  3                3            1:6


       Chain stich
       Spi                    needle           looper      Total ratio

       10-12                  2                4           1:6

       12-14                  2                4           1:6

       14-16                  3                4           1:7




      3 thread overlock
     Sp1                needle               looper       Total ratio

     10-12                5                  15           1:20

     12-14                5                  17           1:22

     14-16                7                  19           1:26




LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN             88    NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


      5thread overlock
     Spi               needle                 looper                 Total ratio

     10-12                5                   15                     1:20

     12-14                5                   17                     1:22

     14-16                7                   19                     1:26

      Single needle
     No.of plys           needle              looper                 Total ratio

     4 ply                2                   1.4                    1:3.4

     2ply                 1.6                 1.4                    1:3

2 needle flat lock (top and bottom cover)
     Spi            Needle 1     Needle 2      Top looper       Bottom        Total
                                                                looper
     12            2.5              1.5        4                8.25          1:16.25

                   4                           12.25

2 needle flat lock (top and bottom cover )
     spi            Needle 1     Needle 2         Top looper     Btm looper    total
     12             3            4                6.4            10            1:23.4

                   7                              16.4

3 needle flat lock(top and bottom cover )
     Spi          Needle 1 Needle 2 Needle        top         btm                  Total
                                        3(center)
     12           2.75       2.5        3.5       7.75        11.5                 1:28
4 needle flat lock
Spi        Needle 1 Needle 2 Needle 3 Needle 4 Top              Btm                 total
                                                    looper      loop
12         2           2.5       2.75       2.25    6.25        14.25               1:30
                                                         20:5
                       9.5

4 thread over lock
Spi           Needle1            Needle 2    toploop           Btm loop       total
10            2                  1.5         5.5               6.25           1:15.25
14            3.5                2.5         7                 8              1:21

              6                              15


LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN               89             NIFT, BANGALORE
Apparel internship (2008-2012)


Example of thread worksheet of LT KARLE

                                                                FO      IE/F
                                                                RM      M/0
   L.T.KARLE                                                    NO      2
             THREAD CONSUMPTION CALCULATION
   & Co                                                         RE
                                                                V.N     02
                                                                O

                                          MERCHANDISIN    DA
   TO                            DEPT
                                          G               TE
                                                          GI    9/1/2011
        DEVELOPMENT                       INDUSTRIAL
   FROM                          DEPT                     VE
        TEAM                              ENGG
                                                          N
   STYLE NO        1J1245                 BASED ON        PPS
   DESCRIPTI
             Jacket                       SIZE            M
   ON
   BUYER           A&F

                                       SEAM
   PART                          T                        RA
        OPERA            MACHI      SP LENGT FREQU
   S                             E                        TI    CONSUMP
        TIONS            NE         I  H   IN ENCY
   NAME                          X                        O     TION
                                       CMS
             Hood                   10
                                                          1.2
             panels att snt      60 -  74     2                 185
                                                          5
             fell seam              12
                                    10
                                                          1.2
                         snb     40 -  74     2                 185
                                                          5
                                    12
             Hood
                                 15 8-
             panels att tmncs             81        4     3     972
                                 0 10
             FOA
                                    8-
                         bmncs   80       81        4     4     1296
   Hood                             10
             Hood                   10
                                                          1.2
             btm pnls snt        60 -     34        2           85
                                                          5
             att shell              12
                                    10
                                                          1.2
                         snb     40 -     34        2           85
                                                          5
                                    12
             Hood
                                 15 8-
             btm pnls tsn                 41        2     1.6   131.2
                                 0 10
             att top st
                        bsn      80 8-    41        2     1.4   114.8


LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN         90       NIFT, BANGALORE
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LT KARLE

  • 1. MANUFACTURERS & EXPORTERS OF READYMADE GARMENTS & TEXTILES (100% EOU) (An ISO 9001:2008 Certified Company) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT BATCH (2008 – 2012) BY: ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN
  • 2. Apparel internship (2008-2012) ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The presentation of “SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT” was possible due to the direction & help rendered by couple of persons. We take pleasure to remember them. We acknowledge Ms.Jonalee Bajpai ,Course Coordinator B.F.Tech, NIFT, Bangalore. Our profound thanks & indebted gratitude for our mentor Ms. Sweta Jain for her guidance & suggestions given at every stage while bringing out this report. First of all, we would like to thank Mr. Guruprasad, Learning & Development officer, LT Karle, who provided us the brilliant opportunity to be internee at the organisation We also extend a special thanks to Mr. Vijeindra Joshi, the Assistant General Manager (and my mentor) for taking out time from his busy schedule to provide us with valuable guidance throughout this training period. Further, We would like to extend our regards to Mr.Vijay and Mr.Manjesh, the Industrial Engineers for providing us with all the necessary information reviews and remarks at all stages of the internship.We would also like to thank Mr. Santhosh, the cutting in-charge and Mr.Rudresh,the QA Head of cutting room for their immense cooperation during our study in the cutting room. Our sincere thanks to all the managers of various departments for guiding us throughout the internship. We would also like to thank all staff and workers of LTK -2, for keeping patience and sharing their valuable experience with us. Anoop Singh & Rajeev Sharan LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 2 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 3. Apparel internship (2008-2012) OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIP National Institute of Fashion Technology, a premier institute in South-east Asia is responsible for human resource development for apparel industry in India. Apparel Production department is imparting education in crucial areas of technology in garment manufacturing. After completing three years of apparel production, a techno managerial under graduate degree program at National Institute of Fashion Technology, the students are exposed to a eight week industry internship with the leading garment manufacturing organizations as a part of the course curriculum The objective of this industry internship is aimed towards blending the classroom study with industry application. This internship helps the students to analyze the day to day activities along with practical application of different principles. The objectives of internship is firstly to gain practical exposure and secondly application of knowledge in real life projects. This internship also helps us to learn and improve our interpersonal communication skills with colleagues, peer group and workers. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 3 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 4. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Table of Contents Sl No Page no 1. COMPANY PROFILE 5 2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 23 3. SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT 38 4. SEWING SECTION 48 5. FINISHING SECTION 58 6. QUALITY ASSURANCE 64 7. MATERIALS DEPARTMENT 67 8. IE DEPARTMENT 83 9. CPQAD 108 10 PLANNING 115 11 HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT 118 12 MERCHANDISING 123 ROLE OF PPM 13. IT DEPARTMENT 125 14. WASHING DEPARTMENT 129 15. SYSTEM & AUDIT DEPARTMENT 136 16. EXPORT & IMPORT DEPARTMENT 139 17. FINANCE DEPARTMENT 142 18. FACILITIES DEPARTMENT 145 19. COSTING DEPARTMENT 148 20. OBSERVATIONS AND LEARNING 151 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 4 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 5. Apparel internship (2008-2012) COMPANY PROFILE LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 5 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 6. Apparel internship (2008-2012) COMPANY PROFILE Karle group is a leading business conglomerate in Apparel, Infrastructure, Life sciences, Properties & Packaging. The group was founded by Late Sri L.T Karle in the year 1972, by opening LT Karle Unit 1 in Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore to manufacture apparel. Sri LT Karle hails from Karle village, 20kms from Hassan in Karnataka. He was a science graduate & had undergone training in advance agriculture in USA .Having gained knowledge in advanced agriculture; he introduced scientific farming in his Hassan farm. He had a unique aptitude of foreseeing future potential of markets 7 tapping steadily from time to time. Besides excelling in business and providing employment to 1000‟s of people, he also dedicated to the public life by occupying various positions to contribute to the society. With his entrepreneurial skills, he has groomed his sons (Mr. Sudarshan Karle & Mr. Mahendra Karle) to take Karle group into greater heights. Since then, there has been no look back for the group, with the aggressive forays into other business apart from Apparel. The group has clear vision with in depth knowledge of the market, committed human resources, state of the art technology & global associations which have all helped Karle group to spread its wings. VISION: Nurture passion for innovation & creativity to achieve its goal to become a dominant & most admired player in the chosen field. MISSION: To continuously…….attract , develop , retain , innovative and creative people , Evolve and upgrade – Knowledge and technology systems , Process , product and services , Encourage organic and inorganic growth initiatives. GOAL: To become dominant and most admired players in the chosen fields. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 6 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 7. Apparel internship (2008-2012) QUALITY POLICY: We are committed to provide apparel that meet or exceed present and continual expectations of our customers in terms of : product quality , delivery and cost. ABOUT THE FOUNDER Major positions held  Joined Indian National Congress 1938  President Malnad Productivity Council  President-Apparel Export Promotion Council (Karnataka)  President-Krishik Samaj  Vice President- Karnataka Pradesh Congress Committee (KPCC)  President: South India Textile Industries Association  Member of Karnataka Legislative Council 1978(MLC) Serial Entrepreneur  Bangalore Crome Tannery 1970  LT Karle and Company (1972)-Bangalore  Bharathi Sales-Bangalore  Machine Component Manufacturing Bangalore  Bharathi Housing Factory- Bangalore  Bharathi Tiles- Hasan  Bharathi Coffee Curing- Hasan  Vijay Kandasari Sugar- Hasan  Bangalore Leather and Leather Craft Bangalore LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 7 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 8. Apparel internship (2008-2012) CHRONOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT Apparel Sector:  1972 LT Karle and Company, Unit 1, Yeshwanthpur  1989 LT Karle Unit 2, Madanayakanahalli  1994 Karle International Unit-1, Nagasandra village  2001 LT Karle Unit 4- Peenya II stage  2007 Karle International Unit-2, Mallarabanavadi Other Business Companies  1997-Karle Properties  1998-Cymbio Pharma Pvt Ltd  2005-Karle Health Sciences Pvt Ltd  2007-Karle Infra Projects Pvt Ltd  2007- ETI Karle Klinical Pvt Ltd  2007-Karle Packaging Pvt Ltd LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 8 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 9. Apparel internship (2008-2012) DIFFERENT UNITS LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 9 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 10. Apparel internship (2008-2012) HEAD OFFICE and LTK Unit 1 KARLE GROUP OF COMPANIES #151, INDUSTRIAL SUBURB, YESHWANTHPUR, BANGALORE - 560022 INDIA Tel: +91-080-23475212, 41285311-15 Fax: 91-80-23374729 Website: www.karlegroup.com LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 10 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 11. Apparel internship (2008-2012) New Head Office, ETI, KHS and Sampling Unit NO.71 / 72, INDUSTRIAL SUBURB, WARD NO.10, NEAR ULLAS THEATRE, 1ST BLOCK RAJAJINAGAR, BANGALORE – 560 010. TEL: +91 – 080-2357 7460, 3250 4549, FAX: +91 – 080 – 23474729 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 11 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 12. Apparel internship (2008-2012) L T KARLE & CO (UNIT II) #SURVEY NO.46/2, SHED NO.4, MADANAYAKANAHALLI TUMKUR ROAD, BANGALORE NORTH TEL: 23712341/23712338 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 12 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 13. Apparel internship (2008-2012) KARLE INTERNATIONAL-1 NO. 73, NAGASANDRA VILLAGE TUMKUR ROAD, BANGALORE – 560 073 TEL: 28399046/28395161 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 13 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 14. Apparel internship (2008-2012) L T KARLE & CO., (UNIT IV) NO. V 77 & 78, INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, PEENYA 2nd STAGE, BANGALORE - 560 058 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 14 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 15. Apparel internship (2008-2012) KARLE INTERNATIONAL – II SURVEY NO. 26/1, 26/2, 27/2, MALLAR BANAVADI, KUNIGAL ROAD, NELAMANGALA TALUK, BANGALORE RURAL DIST TEL: 27700493/ 27700568 Production Capacity S. No. Facility No of Machines Quantity per month 1 KI -I 750 150,000 2 KI- II 1100 285,000 3 LTK-II 275 73,000 4 LTK-IV 350 90,000 Total 2475 598,000 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 15 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 16. Apparel internship (2008-2012) CORE COMPETENCE OF KARLE GROUP  Know the Job:- Over 38 years of expertise in Garment Manufacturing  Ensure quality: - All 4 factories are ISO 9001 -2008 certified.  Capacity: - four factories capable of manufacturing 600,000 garments a month.  Integrated manufacturing: All the activities of garment manufacturing are carried out in-house to ensure quality and consistency  Competency: trained manpower to carry out the work.  Customer Satisfaction: More than 80% business come from existing customers CORE VALUES  Deep respect for individuals and ecosystem  Deliver excellent quality to stakeholders and society at large  Be a responsible corporate and social citizen  Commitment to honesty and transparency  Respect for democratic process, change and joy. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 16 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 17. Apparel internship (2008-2012) KARLE & CO – DEPARTMENTS: APPAREL MANAGING PARTNERS GROUP EXECUTIVE BOARD OPERATIONS PRE PRODUCTION SUPPORT FUNCTIONS KARLE COSTING EXPORTS HUMAN RESOURCES LTK - 1 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ADMINISTRATION LTK - 2 SAMPLING COMPLIANCE LTK - 4 MERCHANDISING FINANCE & KI - 1 ACCOUNTS SOURCING & KI - 2 PURCHASE INFORMATION TECH MATERIALS (STORES) SYSTEM & AUDIT RMQA MAINTAINANCE CPQAD & UTILITY M/C MAINTAINANCE EXLM - HO PRODUCTION C&F - MARKETING CHENNAI COST CONTROL LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 17 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 18. Apparel internship (2008-2012) CORPORATE –HR ORGANOGRAM KARLE GROUP OF COMPANIES MANAGING PARTNERS CHIEF PEOPLE OFFICE GENERAL MANAGER HUMAN RESOURCE TALENT TALENT LEARNING & PERSONAL GROUP ACQUISITION MANAGEMENT DEVELOPMENT DEVELOPMENT FACILITIES LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 18 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 19. Apparel internship (2008-2012) TOP MANAGEMENT Group Executive Board Members [GEB]  Mr. Sudharshan Karle – Managing Partner  Mr. Mahendra Karle – Managing Partner  Mr. P.P.Madappa – Senior Group Advisor Corporate Management Council Members [CMC]  Mr. Chandramowly – Chief People Officer  Mr. Gururaj Bhat – Chief Financial Officer  Mr. Gokal Chittaranjan – Chief Executive  Mr. V.K.Kumar – Chief Financial Officer(Karle Infra Projects)  Dr. M.V.Nagendra – Chief Principal Investigator (ETI Karle Clinical) Business Units & Heads  Apparel Sample Making – Mr. K.S.Prasanna (Partner)  Apparel Production – Mr. Gokal Chittaranjan ( Chief Executive Manufacturing)  Karle Integrated Packaging – Mr. Sunil Betigeri (Head Packaging Unit)  Cymbio Pharma Pvt ltd – Mr. Sadyojatha A.M (Deputy G.M)  Karle Health Sciences Pvt. ltd – Mr. Louis Menezes (Senior Vice President)  ETI Karle Clinical Pvt ltd – Dr. M.V.Nagendra ( Chief Principal Investigator )  Karle Properties – Mr. Srinivas Deshpande (Advisor)  Mr. Gopala Krishna (Senior Executive)  Karle Infra Projects – Mr. Mahlanna Sasalu (Chief Operating Officer) o Mr. V.K.Kumar (Chief Financial Officer) LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 19 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 20. Apparel internship (2008-2012) ORGANIZATION CHART: General Manager Unit Head P.M I.E P.E System Cutting in Finishing in Unit Controller charge charge HR Cutter/ Finishing Layers / supervisor Asst System controller Helpers Checkers / packers/ CAD spot operators/P washers/ Bundle Feeding Producti Washin roduction alteration movers helpers on clerk g helper writers/Em tailors broidery Asst Ironers Panel checking Supervisor Production writter Numbering helper /Recutters/ Sorting helpers/Pan el checkers LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 20 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 21. Apparel internship (2008-2012) CLIENTS:  ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH  LANDS END  ANN TAYLOR  TOMMY HILFIGER  SEARS  AMERICAN EAGLE  HOLLISTER  NIKE  ADIDAS  LEVIS MAJOR CLIENTS (for the last year): 32% 39% Eddie Bauer Nordstorm Land's End Ann Taylor 15% 14% LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 21 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 22. Apparel internship (2008-2012) PRODUCT RANGE IN LTK-2  HEAVY JACKETS  LIGHT JACKETS  SKIRTS  TRENCH COATS  CASUAL BLAZERS  WIND SHETTERS Men’s and Women’s wear  L.T LARLE is known for their jackets in the global market and amongst the Indian garment exporters  Ann Taylor has awarded LT Karle NO.1 for their quality and production in Asia. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 22 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 23. Apparel internship (2008-2012) SAMPLING DEPARTMENT LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 23 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 24. Apparel internship (2008-2012) SAMPLING DEPARTMENT The sampling department at L. T. Karle is a massive structure where samples for their most valuable clients are made. The four main clients that are handled in the sampling unit are:  Ann Taylor  Lands‟ end  Eddie Bauer  Nordstrom The sampling department consists of the design team, processes like cad, pattern making, cutting, production, finishing, inspection, fitting of the garment etc. Quality Objectives:  100% sample exit as per buyer requirement of quality and time  100% sample approval within 2 fit rounds  100% correct pattern release to production unit  100% correct pattern release to production unit as per stipulated time  Sample rejection <1.5%  Internal audit performance >90% The different kind of samples made is:  Proto/ concept samples  Fit samples  Pre production sample  Garment package test sample  Size set samples  Salesman sample  Photo shoot sample LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 24 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 25. Apparel internship (2008-2012) ORGANIZATIONAL CHART OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT HOD Sampling Assistant Mgr Admin & scheduling A Technician Pattern Makers Sewing QA Coordinators supervisors Pattern assistants Feeding Iron Operators Operators Special helpers machine oprts Cutters Assistant LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 25 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 26. Apparel internship (2008-2012) A Digitizers Sub store Maintenance Assistants Head Maintenance mechanics SAMPLE MAKING PROCESS Objective: to make the required samples on time as per buyer specifications Scope: this procedure is applicable for making samples for all buyers Responsibilities:  Merchandising department: Furnishing the controlled techpack, sampling indent, materials, trim cards, and shrinkage reports for making samples.  Materials department: Providing raw materials for making samples as per sampling indent.  Sampling department: make samples as per requirement and as per time and action calendar and also provide the necessary information to the production unit. The tech pack received by sampling has the following:  Tech pack description:- The tech pack consists of the following details. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 26 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 27. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Style folder description:- All the possible details like brand name development number, style name, fit, pattern number and other minute details are included in this folder.  Details & picture:- The waist cut whether bias or contour with the GARMENT is represent here. The place where maximum stitch is requires this fixing of the other additional trims to be added to be through a diagram.  Fabric details:- The fabric group, main fabric, pocketing fabric is represented with development number & code with the supplier reference. The weight, width, composition quality & size are marked here.  Thread details:- The details of threads used are given with the code number. For e.g.:-, main thread (41), navy thread (120), white thread (122), black thread (125,126). The number‟s given in the bracket are the code numbers for each colors which identifies the particular shade of the color. If the quality specification is number given, it should be identified & conferred with the buyer. e.g.:- thickness (30tkt, 50tkt, 75tkt, 100tkt) 30 thicker, 100 finer, quality cotton, poly, spun poly, rayon, poly-most strength, rayon-poor strength.  Packing details:- The details given here are about box & plastic bag with their respective code number‟s, & RMN description or details. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 27 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 28. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Different methods of packing:-  Dead man fold.  Stand up pack.  Hanger pack. Zipper & Hardware Zipper details include zipper chine zipper slider, zipper top stop, and zipper bottom stop with their color description. Generally gold & silver would be the preferable colors.  Zipper band.  Zipper teeth.  Puller.  Stopper. For men‟s garments zipper teeth comes in metal but in children‟s GARMENT. It comes in plastic. The advantage is it comes with lock & unlocks system. Comment sheet:-  Additional care label order of destination is attached to addition care label.  Additional text on care label. The made “…………….” (Country of manufacturing) is represented here. It should be numbered that care label for destination should be only in English.  Polish hand tag. The detail specified here are source plant & country. e.g.:-79000 15.-marocco.These are the following details include waist band button fastener denim with their code numbers & colors. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 28 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 29. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Labelhandbags & miscellaneous:- This detail includes HPL, woven label leather patch, care label size ticket& style label with code number‟s color description & other details. Miscellaneous includes details of bias tape & fusing tape with their code numbers & color. After Wash Measurements:- The after wash measurements waist, thigh, knee, bottom, inseam, Front rise, back rise. Zip leant mettle, fly opening are given. The after wash measurement increase or decrease according to the type of Fabric. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 29 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 30. Apparel internship (2008-2012) CHECK LIST OF ITEMS/ REPORTS TO BE SENT ALONG WITH SAMPLES 1. Proto/ PPR/ CR1 Package offered to Buyer QA  Proto Samples  Measurements and Comments of internal QA  Tech pack  Pattern Tracing  Trim Card  Fabric Shrinkage Report  Samples Review Sheet Package sent to Buyer  Proto Samples  Measurements and Comments of external QA  Tech pack signed by Buyer QA  Pattern Tracing  Sample Review Sheet 2. Fit/ PPR/ CR2 Package offered to Buyer QA  Fit Samples  Measurements and Comments of internal QA  Tech pack  Pattern Tracing  Pinned Sample  Trim Card  Wash Standard & Wash Recipe  Pattern Superimpose LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 30 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 31. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Samples Review Sheet Package sent to Buyer  Fit Samples  Measurements and Comments of external QA  Tech pack signed by Buyer QA  Pattern Tracing  Pinned Sample  Sample Review Sheet 3. PPS/ QRS/ Counter Sample Package offered to Buyer QA  PP Samples  Measurements and Comments of internal QA  Tech pack  Pattern Tracing  Nested Pattern  Buyer agent approved Trim Card  Mini marker  Cut Patterns  Wash Standards & Wash Recipe  GPT Report  Samples Check List  Superimpose Package sent to Buyer  PP Samples  PPS Report  Pattern Tracing  Sample Check List Package sent to the Unit LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 31 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 32. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Sealed PP Sample  Sealer Report  Pattern Tracing  Sample Check List 4. Size Set Package offered to Buyer QA  Size Set garments  Size Set Report of internal QA  Bulk Shrinkage Report  Pattern Tracing  Approved Wash Standards (Wash Recipe if applicable)  Samples Check List Package sent to the Unit  Size Set garments  Size Set report of external QA  Full Set Patterns  Sample Check List LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 32 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 33. Apparel internship (2008-2012) CAD DEPARTMENT (SAMPLING SECTION) Process Flow: Blocks (sent by Buyer) Measurement & Specifications Pattern Preparation (Manually- 4 Pattern Preparation On tables are present) CAD system. Digitization Inspection of Patterns Amendments Marker Preparation Inspection of Marker Amendments Cutting (according to Cutting Indent Stitching received from Merchandising Dept.) Plotting Sample Inspection Sent to Redesign of Comments against Tech pack Buyer Patterns LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 33 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 34. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Applications:  Marker Preparation (done by Pattern Making & Marking Team)  Fabric Costing (done by Fabric Costing Executives- 2 members) Costing (Process Flow): Marker Development Calculation of average fabric consumption for a garment Calculation of different losses Estimation of Fabric Requirement Fabric Costing Software Used: Gerber-8.2 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 34 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 35. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Work instructions for the preparation of pattern-making 1. Make the initial pattern  Use the sloper/ tech pack/ sketch provided by buyer.  Make pattern to hit specifications given, use how to measure manual to arrive at measurement given in specification sheet.  Check with Bill Of Material (BOM), to make patterns for shell, trims, interlinings, poly-fills etc.  Provide correct sewing margin.  Provide notches, where required and match all seams.  Mark the grain line.  Mark all placements- pockets, labels, embroidery or patch etc.  Make marking pattern.  Check that the pattern is according to construction sheet, sketch and sample.  Prepare the cutter's must and compare with BOM (i.e. in case of change between colour ways- should be mentioned in cutter's must).  Write style no., size, name of the pattern, cut quantity and pattern-version.  Prepare pattern check report for measurements, seam matching and notches.  Refer to shrinkage reports. In case of shrinkage/ elongation incorporate it as soft/ hard patterns as applicable.  Clarify with technician in case of doubts. 2. Do as follows if check report does not meet the buyer’s specifications  Measure the proto garment to find out whether there was an error in measuring as measurement by QA.  Determine whether error is in measurement or in parts that are mismatched.  Compare fabric report with shrinkage & elongation report.  Compare actual fusing, ironing shrinkage/ elongation with lab reports.  Take corrective action. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 35 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 36. Apparel internship (2008-2012) 3. Repeat the process till we get a proto that in all respect is correct and can be sent to buyer for the review. Put the seal of version on the patterns 4. Once the buyer gives the comment the first sample the following needs to be done  Study the comments, compare with the proto sample to understand the requirement.  Study the mock sent by buyer and compare with the proto sample.  Compare comments from buyer on specifications with proto and QA audit report.  Study „how to correct‟ instructions from buyer to understand the requirements.  Compare the above comments with P.V.O and identify the area to be corrected.  Develop a new pattern called fit pattern (P.V.I).  Check whether the new pattern made tally with the revised measurement chart & if all the comments have been incorporated, mention it on the comment sheet.  Check P.V.I and pattern check report.  Destroy previous version hard pattern and maintain in soft copy.  Repeat the above process till fit sample is approved. 5. After receiving the approval for fit samples (PPS- preproduction samples), the final approved pattern must be graded to cover the size range.  Follow the grade rules specified by buyer in the tech pack.  Grades are the sizes required by buyer.  Make block patterns, if required (depending on fabric report)  Check all the sizes comparing them with each other to see that grading as per grading rule.  Prepare pattern check report for each size to ensure all measurements are tallying with measurement chart.  Write all reference no., pattern version, name of pattern, number of cut, style no, grain line etc. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 36 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 37. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Make multiple patterns for wash garments (depending on the % of shrinkage and group of fabric according to shrinkage) LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 37 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 38. Apparel internship (2008-2012) SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 38 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 39. Apparel internship (2008-2012) CUTTING CUTTING SECTION AT KI-1 The cutting department at KI-1 is stationed at the second floor and it has state of the art garment spreading and cutting machines. There are 2 types of cutting carried out at KI-1, mainly:  Manual spreading  Machine spreading LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 39 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 40. Apparel internship (2008-2012) The cutting section also has within it the CAD department, the re-cutting department, it has sections for checking, numbering, and panel checking and sorting. Cutting is done with the help of the CNC Gerber cutter (automated) and manually through straight knife and band knife systems. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 40 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 41. Apparel internship (2008-2012) ORGANIZATION CHART Cutting manager Asst Incharge CAD executive CNC technician Heat sealers CAD operator CNC operator Supervisor spreading P. writer CAD assistant Helper CNC spreader Cutter Helper Layer Runner / body embroidery/ printing Supervisor Numbering P. Helper Sorting Re Fusing Cutting helper checking Bundling cutter helper issuer helper helper LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 41 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 42. Apparel internship (2008-2012) CUTTING SECTION AT LTK-2 The cutting section consists of the production in charge, cutting supervisor, cutter, damage cutter, lay girls, lay helpers & clerk for record maintenance. The production in charge is the person responsible for the entire cutting department. Objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as replica of pattern pieces in marker plan. For fulfilling this requirement cutting master plays a vital role. As the major cost of the garment is in the fabric, accounting to 60 % of the total cost, so it is very essential that actual usage of fabric is slightly controlled by scientific methods & procedures. Furniture & Fixtures: 1. Fabric laying table 2. Weight 3. Numbering stickers 4. Lay paper sheet 5. Bundle card 6. Clamps 7. Pencil 8. Patterns 9. Scissors 10. Storage- racks & trolleys. 11. Measuring tape QUALITY OBJECTIVES: 100% achievement of planned batch production efficiency. Cost / minute: Rs 1.45/- Wage: Rs 0.874 per attended minute. Compliance audit score > 80% Internal audit performance > 90% Attrition rate = <5% LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 42 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 43. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Stores, spreading and cutting layout LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 43 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 44. Apparel internship (2008-2012) LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 44 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 45. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Cutting department AQL =1.5 CUTTING (PATTERN SEPERATION ACCORDING TO SHRINKAGE %) PATTERN COLOUR A B C D E F G The pattern for easy identification is differentiated with the help of different coloured stickers When the fabric swatches are sent for washing the shrinkage % of each lot is observed and depending the shrinkage of each lot and depending on which lot fabric is issued ffrom time to time the cutting QA accordingly gives the pattern This colored sticker method is an in house innovation which is very user friendly and is followed till date. FORMATS AVAILABLE IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:  Cutting check list  Laying check list  Bundle identification  Bundle checking or recutting reports  Lay record  Daily production status report LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 45 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 46. Apparel internship (2008-2012) STAFF IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT  Cutting supervisor  Cutting head  CAD operator  Pattern maker  QA  QA assistant  Production writer  Cutting issuer  Cutters  Re –cutters  Layers  Sorting helpers  Embroidery assistant  Helpers  Panel checkers Machines available in C/S: Machine Model Make Quantity Straight knife Streak -II East man 5 Band knife STV-376 Wastema 2 End cutters EC-3 East man 4 Drilling Dz3-ID Dalian 2 Plotter GGT ACCUPLOT Gerber 1 100 Fusing machine HBP FA 700 Fiblon 1 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 46 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 47. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Fusing machine (complete automatic) Korea fiblon The machine is divided into  Belt speed  Temperature  Pressure  ON/OFF main  Upper /lower heat temperature  Regulator Fusing material strength is calculated using fusometer This is used to check the bond strength The machine is japan‟s obha siki For example: Fuse line temperature observed:125 degrees centigrade Bond strength :400 gms Duration :15 secs Pressure :3 khr LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 47 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 48. Apparel internship (2008-2012) SEWING DEPARTMENT LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 48 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 49. Apparel internship (2008-2012) SEWING Sewing department is where the actual production takes place. The batch should be set according to the style . The batch is set based upon the previous time study. The production target for each day is set according to the time study done by IED in order to meet the shipment day. The layout set up in this factory was batch & assembly(ETON) layout. The batch layout is where parts like collar, cuff , front etc are prepared and assembly is where all the batch parts are assembled. As soon as the bundles comes to the sewing section, the production process starts. QUALITY OBJECTIVES: 100 % achievement of planned batch production efficiency. Cost / minute = 1.45 /- Wage = Rs 0.874 per attended per minute Compliance audit score > 80% Internal audit performance > 90% Unauthorized absenteeism < 2% Attrition rate : < 5% LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 49 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 50. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Sewing section layout: LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 50 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 51. Apparel internship (2008-2012) SEWING: Every tailor is graded A=Rs 4500 B=Rs 4000 C=Rs 3800 ORGANISATION CHART: AGM Production Finishing Production manager incharge executive Supervisor PE Asst System Floor incharge Pattern maker controller Checker Asst system APM controller Ironer Supervisor Finishing Helper helper Tailor Helper Operator Finishing helper Batch mover Poly packer Production bank asst Spot wash Alt tailor Production writer LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 51 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 52. Apparel internship (2008-2012) PROCESS FLOW CHART: Receipt of production file from PE Preparation of unit PPS Unit PPS approval QAM Receipt of machine layout Internal PPM External PPM Cutting /ROM CS Accessories from stores Batch setting Load pilot run Approval of pilot runs by QAM/CPQAD/BUYER QA Bulk loading Monitor production as per target End line checking Accountings & handover to system controller LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 52 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 53. Apparel internship (2008-2012) LTK-2 MACHINE LIST Machin TOT e TRAINI AL SEN Tot brought R NG FINISHI IN T al from LINE LINE LINE LINE LINE LINE & SECTI NG/ UNI OU in ALLO other TYPE -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 D ON Cutting T T use TED unit 3 S/N 27 26 30 26 23 26 2 10 8 208 208 587 -379 24 1 S/N EC 3 2 1 1 1 1 6 0 0 25 25 93 -68 D/N 16 15 15 10 15 15 0 0 0 86 86 124 -38 D/N CS 1 0 0 0 3 0 1 0 0 2 O/L 1 0 1 6 3 1 8 3 1 44 44 112 -68 BUTTON 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 3 3 19 -16 B/HOLE 0 0 0 0 0 0 5 0 0 5 5 17 -12 B.TAKE 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 0 1 9 9 28 -19 KEY.HOLE 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 5 5 7 -2 12/N 2 1 0 2 1 0 5 0 0 11 11 0 11 F/OF ARM 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 3 3 0 3 BLIND H 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 WELT 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 -3 XY TACKER 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 2 2 0 FLAT LOCK 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 3 3 3 0 SNAP 2 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 FEGGOTING M/C 0 0 0 0 0 0 5 0 0 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 53 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 54. Apparel internship (2008-2012) The sewing floor has 6 lines A- Shift batch B- Regular batch C- Regular batch D- Regular batch E- Shift batch F-regular batch Shift batch the batch runs for 16 hours in a day 6 am to 2pm and 2.30 to 10.30pm 2:00 – 2.30 (lunch for shift batch) The other batches run for 8 ½ hrs and lunch is from 1pm – 1.30pm Lunch timing for other departments is 1.30-2.00pm A batch is in one line has 46 machines B batch is divided into two lines in two different places has 44 machines C batch is divided into two lines in two different places 49 machines D batch is in one line has 43 machines E and f are divided into parts n assembly has 50 and 46 machines respectively. After parts stitching before it goes to assembly each line has a parts bank where they store the parts which will then be loaded into the assembly line which is switch track system. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 54 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 55. Apparel internship (2008-2012) General Manager  Governs the entire unit  Head of the entire unit  Analysis the monthly reports and directly works with the AGM  Discusses the problems to the development team  Plays an integral role in evaluation meeting of the entire organization  Coordinates with chief executive officer about the progress and the issues  Gets the highest salary in the unit Assistant general manager  Is like a factory manager and has roles of a factory manager  Governs the entire production from top  Starting from procurement to shipment  Target is to reach the shipment date  Production manager addresses to the AGM  Reporting to the GM  Unit monthly planning to be prepared by AGM  Order tracking and discuss about the ppm dates etc  Monthly turnover report to be generated by AGM Production manager:  To look after the production in terms of quantity  Look after the employees in the batch  Supervise the APM‟S  Making sure the target production is reached at the desired time  Coming up with immediate solutions to problems  Keeping a track on production in all the lines  Making changes in PPM if necessary  Try to reach the unit‟s objectives LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 55 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 56. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Approve the daily OVER TIME reports produced by production writers APM  Direct the supervisors  Head of the entire batch  Have to handle and solve all the problems of the batch  Have to report to the PM  Have to make sure that the batch reaches the required target  Plays an important role in pilot runs  Approves daily DPR  Helps the IE in line balancing  Integral part in PPM SUPERVISORS  Directly interacts to the tailors  First hand experience in batch problems  Always on the floor  Helps in time study  Checks on the production and quality hourly  Takes care of the tailors  Can increase the tailors salary if finds them worth  Rates the tailors SYSTEM CONTROLLER It is a department where the system controlling head takes care of movement of  Cutting panels  Parts bank  Finished garments LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 56 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 57. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Cutting panels once it is out of the cutting department the system controller has to the sign the report which has the details of the number of panels coming to the shop floor  And it has to tally to the report generated by the sewing department  Any case of missing panels the system controller has to recheck and analyse or else this department will be held responsible  In case of parts bank it has to keep a track on the parts going from parts batch to assembly  In case of finished goods  It has to keep a track on the finished garments going to the finishing department and from there to washing to the head office if necessary LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 57 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 58. Apparel internship (2008-2012) FINISHING DEPARTMENT LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 58 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 59. Apparel internship (2008-2012) FINISHING Finishing section consists of the various operations like trimming, ironing, measurement checking, folding is carried out. In trimming operation sides of the pocket, seams, cuffs (if any) i.e. tiny extensions of the thread are trimmed to give a uniform and finished look to the garment. After trimming the general checking is done to see the above processes are carried out correctly or not. Ironing is done to set crease wherever required and to remove unwanted wrinkles. This gives a finished look to the garment. After ironing the garment is sent for final checking where the garment is finally checked for any flaws and defects. After the final checking the garments are sent for measurement checking before the folding operation, here the garment is checked for its measurements against originals. This step is the last operation in finishing which is folding, this includes fastening of all the tags in proper fashion and folding the garment as per the buyer‟s requirement. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 59 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 60. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Finishing section layout LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 60 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 61. Apparel internship (2008-2012) PROCESS FLOW CHART: FINISHING SECTION Receipt of production file & packing approval Receipt of garments from system controller Middle checking AQL inspection Receipt of poly packing approval De dusting with blower Pressing De dusting & removal of cut thread Presentation checking Measurement checking Folding Tagging Poly bag packing To packing section LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 61 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 62. Apparel internship (2008-2012) PROCESS FLOW CHART: PACKING SECTION Receipt of poly packed garment from finishing section Sorting out of garments Cartoning & marking Packed AQL by CPQAD Buyer certification Shipment LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 62 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 63. Apparel internship (2008-2012) STEP ONE • Checking label for A) Style No. B) PO No. • Affixing the price tag • Folding the garment • Placing folded garment in polythene bag and closing the bag • One bag will have one garment. STEP TWO • All the garments placed in polythene bag will undergo Metal detector test • Tested garments will be segregated size wise STEP THREE • Setting up carton box • Mentioning product details on the carton box • Placing the garments into carton box • Closing and sealing the carton box • PACKING COMBINATIONS 1) Solid color and solid size 2) Solid color and assorted size 3) Solid size and assorted color. 4) Assorted color and assorted size. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 63 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 64. Apparel internship (2008-2012) QUALITY ASSURANCE Ensuring the production of the garment with reference to the standard specification is known as quality control. Quality of the garment is inspected in various stages from fabric to finished garment. Fabric Quality Once the fabric is received by the stores, it is checked by quality department by 4 point system. Rejection of fabric should be informed to the supplier before 1 week, in case of no information from the garment unit, the fabric is considered as accepted by the unit and the supplier won‟t accept any more rejections. So, quality team should work as soon as fabric in-house happens. Common defects found during 4 point inspection 1. Broken stitches 2. Contamination 3. Double pick 4. Miss weave 5. Miss end 6. Stain 7. Slub 8. Stop mark 9. Miss point 10. Knots 11. Mend mark LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 64 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 65. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Marker inspection The marker plan is inspected for quality parameters before cutting operation. The parameters include marker length, number of parts, garment size as per pattern, markings as per pattern, grain lines, notches, marker matching one way, position of numbering places. Lay inspection The defects occurring during spreading are inspected after the process. The common defects obtained are to be minimized and account for the following i.e. lay length, lay tension, selvedge edge cut, ply height, number of plies, lay alignment etc. Cut part inspection Components of the garments are to be cut with dimension of pattern to ensure better sewing operation. To enhance it some of the common defects that are inspected are notches, and frayed edges, cut part to pattern check. Sewing inspection In this, inspection is done at several stages which are as follows:  Inline inspection - The sewn parts such as Cuff, sleeve attachment, pocket attachment are inspected.  End – of – line Audit – In this auditing of garment Seams, loops, Cuff attachment, and hems.  Pockets and seams are inspected for defects. The defects identified are: Uneven top stitch, broken or skip stitch, wrong SPI, loose tension, marking mismatch etc.  Label- missing, misplaced, slanted, wrong thread, raw edge, uneven tension etc Pocket- Up-down, raw edge, skip, broken or down stitch, uneven topstitch, shade variation, puckering LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 65 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 66. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Hem- Improper overlap stitch, roping, puckering, seam mismatch, broken, skip , tension, raw edge  Side Seam- Raw edge, puckering, SPI wrong, uneven stitch, wrong thread, broken, skip, down stitch These are mostly occurring defects in garment production. An hourly report is maintained and accordingly settings are kept in production line. In the final inspection AQL Standards (according to buyer requirement ) is adopted to maintain quality. Accepted quality level It is the maximum quality level with tolerance within which the product can be accepted for its quality, beyond which the product can be rejected. The following chart is used to access quality: AQL Lot Size Sample Size 1.5 2.5 4.0 A R A R A R 2-8 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 9-15 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 16-25 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 26-50 8 0 1 0 1 1 2 51-90 13 0 1 1 2 1 2 91-150 20 1 2 1 2 2 3 151-280 30 1 2 2 3 3 4 QUALITY OBJECTIVES: Failed audits % = <5% End line defects % = < 10% Cost of poor quality = < 2% of wage bill Short shipment % = < 0.3% LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 66 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 67. Apparel internship (2008-2012) MATERIALS DEPARTMENT LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 67 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 68. Apparel internship (2008-2012) MATERIALS DEPARTMENT Responsible for  Receipt,  Storage,  Distribution,  Record keeping and  Identifying surplus and deficient quantities of materials. 1. RECEIPT OF MATERIAL When the materials reach the concerned factories, the inward clerk of material department check the purchase order, invoice, packing slip etc., to ascertain style number, quantity ordered and received, and other specifications of the material. Variations if any between ordered material and received will be brought to the notice of concerned merchandiser to sort out the matter. 2. STORING OF MATERIAL After receipt the material will be stored properly in the respective stores. Before issuing the material for production they have got to be checked/ tested by Raw Material Quality Assurance (RMQA) department. Therefore the material to be given for RMQA will marked with orange colour sticker. After RMQA test the material will be marked with green colour sticker. 3. ISSUING MATERIAL Materials checked by RMQA will be issued to production department for cutting. Sometimes material is issued from one factory to another depending upon the factory in which a particular style is manufactured. For this purpose the dispatch clerk has to prepare delivery challen (DC) and enter in the security counter. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 68 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 69. Apparel internship (2008-2012) 4. SURPLUS/ DEFICIENT MATERIAL STATUS Materials department is also responsible for detecting surplus / deficient quantity of materials. It will prepare surplus quantity status and advice merchandising department to plan for extra garments. In case of deficiency it will follow up with import, sourcing and merchandising department to ensure that remaining quantity is brought at right time. 5. PROCEDURE FOR IMPORTED MATERIAL Apart from the procedure mentioned above additional formalities have to be completed in respect of imported material. When the material arrives at the respective factories the security department will break open the seal of consignment. Important documents like packing slip, invoice, bill of entry etc., will be checked by inward clerk of materials department. For each imported consignment get a bond number allotted by customs department through EXIM department. The bond number has to be entered in the inward register. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 69 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 70. Apparel internship (2008-2012) STORES EOU DTA  EXPORT ORIENTED UNITS ARE o LTK-4 o KI-2  DUTY TARRIF AREA o LTK-2 o KI-1 DTA pays duties entirely and gets the fabric EOU does not pay the duties and get the fabric; it is as if the fabrics are with customs dept DTA cannot give fabric to EOU EOU can give fabrics to DTA EOU – export oriented unit DTA – domestic traffic area Fabric stores The fabric is issued, stored and inspected here. The fabric is only stored, relaxed and issued to the production floor after cutting. The inspection of the fabric is done here. The fabric is inspected using 4 – point defects system. Here 100% fabric inspection is done. The formula used to calculate total points are: A – Total defect points observed. Net points = (A x 10000)/ (width in cms x length in meters). If this value is greater than 22, than the roll is rejected. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 70 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 71. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Trims stores The store maintains both capital and non-capital requirements of the factory. The capital requirements of the factory are concerned with the files for maintenance records, data storage devices, and computers etc. The non-capital requirements are the products used for the garment production. The products are sewing threads, labels, zippers, accessories, trims, rivets, fasteners etc. these materials are to be sourced / acquired as per buyer‟s requirement before the actual production. Furniture & Fixtures a) Store Racks b) Trim Storing Racks c) Fabric Inspection Machine QUALITY OBJECTIVES:  100% of time materials issued to sampling with in the stipulated time.  100% of the time submission of trim cards with in the stipulated time.  100% upto date maintenance of store records.  100% submission of counting report with in the stipulated time. Head office team ; Clearance of materials shortage and rejections for all the counting reports within the stipulated time. 100% time stock confirmation with in the stipulated time from the left out bonds. DTA units : 100% of times submission of counting reports with in the stipulated time. 100% planning of extra garments in stage 3. Zero % production loss due to materials department LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 71 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 72. Apparel internship (2008-2012) EOU units : 100% of time submission of counting reports within the stipulated time. 100% planning of extra garments in stage 3 100% updation of regulatory and statutory records. Zero % production loss due to material departments. NIKE Sampling plan chart Woven fabrics yards/mts Inspection quantity less than 2000 yards One roll or 10% which ever is > (1,800mts) 2001 to 20,000 yds 10% (1,801-18,000mts) 20001-50000 yds 5% (18001-46000mts) Over 50000 yds 3% (46001 mts) Knit fabrics Inspection quantity less than 2000 yards One roll or 10% which ever is > (1,800mts) 2001 to 5000 yds 10% (1,801-4600mts) Over 2000yds 3% LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 72 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 73. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Nike acceptable point Fabric type Ind roll pts/100 yds Shipment points Woven fabric 20 20 Warp knit 20 20 Knit fabric 25 20 (open or tubular) Acceptance criteria Tommy Fabric type Roll point /100 yds Shipment points Woven fabric 28 20 Knits 36 30 L.T KARLE sampling plan FABRIC ROLL POINT SHIPMENT POINT Woven /knitted 20 20 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 73 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 74. Apparel internship (2008-2012) ORGANISATION CHART: HOD STORES EXECUTIVE STORES JUNIOR EXECUTIVE DOCUMENTATION PLANNING TEAM TEAM Computer operator Senior assistant Senior fabric and assistant DC & accessories Annexure Senior stock assistant Material issues Senior assistant inward Assistant field work Helpers Senior Senior assistant assistant fabric accessories Assistant Assistant accessories fabric LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 74 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 75. Apparel internship (2008-2012) PROCESS FLOW CHART – INWARD PROCESS: Stores Receipt Order Status Receipt of Bill Of Materials - QAMS Prepare material Requirement Plan Receipt Of Consignment Inward Process Package verification against Supplier Invoice / Packing Unit Inhouse Status Report Lab Test Forward counting report to merchandising Trim card through HO materials Pass Fail Inspection process Approved Rejected Quality check Pass Fail Generation of counting Report Conditionally approved by Rejected RMQAM / Buyer Forward counting report Inform to purchase executive to HO Storage in rejected area Send it back to Storage of passed materials suppliers Disposal after 6 months LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 75 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 76. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Updated MRP Balance material status follow up Forward bills to account for payment Issues to sub stores with issue slip Issue of fabric to cutting section Issues of trims to production based on lay record based on MRS Receipt of end bits from cutting Receipt of left out materials from section production Recutting process OCR OCR LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 76 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 77. Apparel internship (2008-2012) PROCESS FLOW CHART – IUT Stores Receipt of loading schedule from HO Receipt of Bill Of Materials - QAMS Update status to production Receipt Of Materials Inward Process Package verification against packing list for weight & no of packages Materials received with ispection Materials received without inspection Generate in house status report Lab test Trim card for accessories Storage of materials Forward ISI to In style wise house unit & Yes No pass materials - HO Rejected To be inspected Inspection process LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 77 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 78. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Inspection pass Inspection fail Quality checking Conditionally approved by Rejected buyer Counting report Storage in rejected Area Forward CR to materials Dpt – HO – CC to inhouse unit Send the materials to inhouse unit with counting report Storage of passed material Updated MRP BMS follow up Update status to production Issues to sub store with issue slip Issues of fabric to cutting Issues of trims to production section based on lay record based on MRS Receipt of end bits from Receipt of left over cutting section materials from production Recutting process OCR OCR LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 78 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 79. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Stores Objective: Receipt, storage and issue of raw materials and packing materials in order to ensure smooth production Scope: This procedure is applicable for receipt storage and issue of all types of raw materials Responsibility:  merchandising department  Import department  Raw material quality assurance  Materials department Materials department: depending on the documents from merchandiser through materials department HO on receipt of order status Based on BOM stores planning team shall prepare the following documents  MRP  Running length material work sheet  Thread work sheet LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 79 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 80. Apparel internship (2008-2012) IUT PROCESS Production unit shall collect the following documents from-HO materials department on receipt of loading schedule  Production file  Carton box work sheet  Poly bag work sheet MRP and thread worksheet shall be prepared by the unit Storage of accepted items Storage if failed items (identified by blue sticker) Storage of conditionally approved items (C.A on the blue sticker) Storage of rejected items (red sticker) Once in 6 months review for decision on disposal LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 80 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 81. Apparel internship (2008-2012) PROCESS FLOW CHART – TRIMS Receipt of trims consignment in material department Collect PO & packaging list from materials Dpt Send samples to lab & proceed inspection Trim card – send to merchandiser Go for inspection – AQL Metal detection & heat transfer test Pick samples for inspection as per AQL norms Fail Do inspection as per laid out instruction If fail in any test Check lab test report & merchandiser If no approval report If yes Do not proceed further inform HOD & act as per Make inspection report instruction Pass AQL fail Pass quantity – store in pass Do 100% inspection inspection area / counting Rejected quantity – store in rejected area Inform HOD for further action LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 81 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 82. Apparel internship (2008-2012) PROCESS FLOW CHART – FABRICS: Receipt of fabric consignment in material department Collect PO & packaging list from materials Dpt Send samples to lab Wash program Swatch cutting non wash program Send swatches from 100% rolls to lab for shrinkage test Shade band & colour Run card Fabric relaxation projection 100% relaxation / ironing & fusing shrinkage Center to selvedge colour verification Width measurement Fabric quality inspection as per 4 point system Inform HOD & Fail act as per Check lab test report instruction Summary report Take decision about acceptance / rejection by head of RMQA LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 82 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 83. Apparel internship (2008-2012) IE DEPARTMENT LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 83 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 84. Apparel internship (2008-2012) INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING Industrial Engineering Department is one of most important department in the industry. It helps in up gradation of the production department with different types of studies in the department like capacity, time, production, motion study. To improve the production & achieve target in time it is setup in batch & SAM (standard allotted minute) is calculated. IED follows the GENERAL SEWING DATA (GSD) system Productivity = the ratio of output produced to the input resources utilized in the production. QUALITY OBJECTIVES: 100% of time actual SMV shall match with costed SMV with +/- 5% variation (monthly) 100% of time actual thread consumption shall match with costed thread consumption with +/- 5% variation (monthly). Preparation for the styles so as to reach learning curve targets min of 95%. Maintain helper numbers in sewing line as per SMV‟s (with 5% max variation) Functions of IE department at Karle: Industrial Engineering (IE) department in Karle Group is located in new head office. It has two wings. Each of the wings has two teams namely development team working from head office and Implementation team working at our apparel factories. The department uses specialized software called GSD (general sewing data). 1) Feasibility study: The development team studies the tech pack and determines whether a particular style is possible to manufacture in our organization considering the facilities/resources we have. This information will help the organization to decide whether to accept or reject a particular business proposal. LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 84 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 85. Apparel internship (2008-2012) 2) Time study: The development team studies the time required for manufacturing a particular style. For this purpose the various operations involved in a style are segregated and time required for performance of each operation is calculated. By adding all these time requirements the basic minutes is derived. Another 15% to 20% time is added as human fatigue to determine the time required for manufacturing a garment which is called standard minute value (SMV). This information is required by costing, production planning and production departments. 3) Calculating thread consumption: The development team determines the requirements of thread for manufacturing a style. This information is required for the (a) costing department to arrive at the price to be quoted for the buyer, and (b) merchandising department to decide the quantity of thread to be purchased. 4) Simplifying the style process: The development team works with technicians of sampling department to simplify the construction of a garment at the product development stage itself. 5) Making a sample piece at the factory: After the pre production meeting and before the pilot run production, the implementation team at the unit will prepare a sample piece of the garment to understand the technicalities involved in a style. Difficulties if any found at this level will be resolved by discussing with development team and sampling department. 6) Skill matrix for tailors: The implementation team is responsible for preparing skill matrix of all the tailors working in the unit. This will help the industrial engineers to understand the skill level of each and every tailor so that they can be deployed at appropriate places in the production line. 7) Batch Setting: Before loading a style to production line, the implementation team has to ensure that the number of production lines is available, all machines are in proper condition and there is sufficient number of trained people to handle all the critical operations. 8) Line Balancing: The implementation team has to study the process involved, the time required for each operations, the competent tailors to be placed at each LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 85 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 86. Apparel internship (2008-2012) machine of the production line, and the tasks to be performed by each tailors so that all the tailors in the line get the work properly distributed. 9) Actual time study: The SMV calculated by development team is only an estimate done in controlled condition at head office The implementation team will actually do the time study at the factory after a style is loaded for mass production. This will help the I.E. department to ascertain the variation between the SMV calculated by development team and the actual time consumed for making a garment. It will also help the production planning department to fix the daily production targets for the production functionaries. 10) Daily production report: The implementation team prepares the daily production report for each style and sends it to production planning department. Role of IE Pre production Analyze the garment See the 3 M‟s: MAN MATERIAL AND MACHINE requirement for the particular garment and quantity This includes  Operation break down  Thread consumption report  Machine list  Machine layout During production Line balancing  Theoretical balancing :based on the SMV values  Dynamic balancing: practical one based on the absenteeism LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 86 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 87. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Post production After the production is over the IE has to report to the development team if there has to be any changes or any kind of problems faced during the production so that those problems don‟t repeat. Data analysis is done based on the reports generated On efficiency, minute, cost, man and machine etc Thread consumption Instruction 1. List down the operation of the garment and enter the type of ink used as per GSD.style bulletin in the operations and machine consumption separately. 2. Measure the scam length of each oper cms using a calibrated measuring tape by excluding the margin. 3. Per each operation add 5cms allowance to the scan length on either side of the scan for scan margin and wastage in threading and enter the values in scan length 4. Enter the number of scans for each operation in frequency collumn. 5. Refer the ratio chart and enter the ratio for each type of machine / stich type used for the operation in the “ratio column. 6. Calculate thread consumption for each operation by formula given below: Thread consumption in cms =SEAM LENGTH X FREQUENCY X RATIO 7. Add the thread consumption for all operations to obtain total thread consumption for garment in cms. 8. Categorise thread consumption machine wise. 9. Calculate thread consumption in meters and enter in thread deatails. 10. Compare thread type colour/quality/stich/density with instructions given in style file. 11. Refer the calculations done and the thread details table to categorise the consumption for each thread type enter the values in thread summary. THREAD RATIOS AND CONSUMPTION Single needle SPi needle bobbin Total ratio 10-12 1.25 1.25 1:2.5 12-14 1.5 1.5 1:3 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 87 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 88. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Single needle top stitch-thicker thread. Spi needle bobbin Total ratio 7 1.5 1.5 1:3 8 1.6 1.4 1:3 Double needle Spi needle bobbin Total ratio 10-12 2.5 2.5 1:5 12-14 3 3 1:6 Chain stich Spi needle looper Total ratio 10-12 2 4 1:6 12-14 2 4 1:6 14-16 3 4 1:7 3 thread overlock Sp1 needle looper Total ratio 10-12 5 15 1:20 12-14 5 17 1:22 14-16 7 19 1:26 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 88 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 89. Apparel internship (2008-2012) 5thread overlock Spi needle looper Total ratio 10-12 5 15 1:20 12-14 5 17 1:22 14-16 7 19 1:26 Single needle No.of plys needle looper Total ratio 4 ply 2 1.4 1:3.4 2ply 1.6 1.4 1:3 2 needle flat lock (top and bottom cover) Spi Needle 1 Needle 2 Top looper Bottom Total looper 12 2.5 1.5 4 8.25 1:16.25 4 12.25 2 needle flat lock (top and bottom cover ) spi Needle 1 Needle 2 Top looper Btm looper total 12 3 4 6.4 10 1:23.4 7 16.4 3 needle flat lock(top and bottom cover ) Spi Needle 1 Needle 2 Needle top btm Total 3(center) 12 2.75 2.5 3.5 7.75 11.5 1:28 4 needle flat lock Spi Needle 1 Needle 2 Needle 3 Needle 4 Top Btm total looper loop 12 2 2.5 2.75 2.25 6.25 14.25 1:30 20:5 9.5 4 thread over lock Spi Needle1 Needle 2 toploop Btm loop total 10 2 1.5 5.5 6.25 1:15.25 14 3.5 2.5 7 8 1:21 6 15 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 89 NIFT, BANGALORE
  • 90. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Example of thread worksheet of LT KARLE FO IE/F RM M/0 L.T.KARLE NO 2 THREAD CONSUMPTION CALCULATION & Co RE V.N 02 O MERCHANDISIN DA TO DEPT G TE GI 9/1/2011 DEVELOPMENT INDUSTRIAL FROM DEPT VE TEAM ENGG N STYLE NO 1J1245 BASED ON PPS DESCRIPTI Jacket SIZE M ON BUYER A&F SEAM PART T RA OPERA MACHI SP LENGT FREQU S E TI CONSUMP TIONS NE I H IN ENCY NAME X O TION CMS Hood 10 1.2 panels att snt 60 - 74 2 185 5 fell seam 12 10 1.2 snb 40 - 74 2 185 5 12 Hood 15 8- panels att tmncs 81 4 3 972 0 10 FOA 8- bmncs 80 81 4 4 1296 Hood 10 Hood 10 1.2 btm pnls snt 60 - 34 2 85 5 att shell 12 10 1.2 snb 40 - 34 2 85 5 12 Hood 15 8- btm pnls tsn 41 2 1.6 131.2 0 10 att top st bsn 80 8- 41 2 1.4 114.8 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 90 NIFT, BANGALORE