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Intermediate Wine
    Course: IV
        16 May 2012


 Nth California & the
 Pacific North-West
   Copyright © Brian Jamieson
USA wine production
   Wineries in all 50 States
   Main centres: California, Oregon, Washington
    and New York.
   Post-Pylloxera, familiar European varieties on
    native American root stocks
   American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) since 1980:
    can be a whole County or a small geographic
    area; e. g. Mendocino AVA and Oakville AVA
Californian wine production
   Thriving wine industry before Phylloxera in late
    1880s
   Prohibition in 1920s
   1930-1960: Cheap, bulk wines from Central
    Valley
   1960–present: Explosive growth in quality and
    quantity; small boutique wineries
   Polarisation of size of winery and quality (and
    cost) of wine
   Quality wines from cooler regions: Davis Zones
    I-III
Wineries in California by County
      Napa            284
      Sonoma          210
      San Luis Obispo 98
      Santa Barbara    50
      Mendocino        46

      TOTAL         1,050
Today’s   1
wines         4
          2       5
                      7
Davis Climatic
    Zones
   Region I: <2,500 degree days
       Bordeaux, Champagne
   Region II: 2,500-3,000 degree days
       Nth Italy (Piemonte)
   Region III: 3,000-3,500 degree days
       Nth Spain
   Region IV: 3,500-4,000 degree days
       Cape Province SA, Tuscany
   Region V: >4,000 degree days
       Western Australia
Napa Valley


Monoculture
1. Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc, 2008

   Blend of organic fruit from Mendocino and Lake
    counties.
   95% Sauvignon Blanc; 4% Muscat; 1%
    Chardonnay
   100% Cold stainless steel fermentation
   Residual Sugar: 4.7 grams/l
   Alcohol:        13.2%
Bonterra Vineyards
Bonterra has been producing
wine from 100%
organically-grown grapes
since 1993.

Some Biodynamic practices,
too.
Bonterra Winery: Mendocino




              1
1. Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc, 2008

   Colour: Pale-green
   Aroma: Intense aromas of grapefruit, citrus, kiwi
    and fresh cut grass greet the nose
   Palate: The crisp acidity gives the wine a fresh
    vibrant feel with flavours of grapefruit, lime zest
    and grass that closes with flavours of melon and
    a nice tart finish.
2. Cartlidge and Browne
Chardonnay, North Coast, 2010
   The Cartlidge and Browne winery is in Santa Rosa, Nth
    Sonoma
   Cartlidge and Browne buy in grapes from their extensive
    contact list of growers, in Mendocino, Sonoma and the
    Sierra foothills.
   The winemaker, Paul Moser, aims to make wines in the
    restrained European style where quality relies on fruit
    and balance rather than power.
   The chardonnays have bags of fresh fruit flavour and are
    considered to be among California’s best value whites.
2. Cartlidge and Browne
Chardonnay, North Coast 2010
   Aroma: green, red and brown apple medley and
    more floral honeysuckle lead.
   Palate: both silky and alive. Flavours of honey
    and baked bread from sur lees aging while
    maintaining a delicious fruit profile.
   Very French in style with an elegant minerality
    and complexity combined with the slightest
    caramel and brown sugar notes.
Sonoma
Valley
North end

Healdsburg main centre
Sonoma
Valley
Southern end

Los Carneros links
Napa & Sonoma
5


3
3. Six Vineyards Pinot Noir,
Willamette Valley, 2008
   Eric Lemelson came to the wine business after a
    previous career as an environmental lawyer
   First Pinot Noir vines were planted in 1995. Today some
    120 acres and a unique state-of-the-art winery
   The vineyards have been farmed organically given
    Lemelson’s environmental background and belief that
    grapes develop their full flavour potential without the use
    of synthetic chemicals
   A fine, plump, cherry-fruited pinot blended from six
    vineyard sites, and now Lemelson’s second label.
3. Six Vineyards Pinot Noir,
Willamette Valley, 2008
   Nose: it has great aromatic complexity with strawberry,
    plum, dried flowers, ripe black cherries and subtle earth.
   Palate: is bright and fresh with lovely, sweet red cherry
    and citrus throughout the soft, medium-bodied mid-
    palate. Bigger than average tannins serve to create an
    unusually long finish for this wine
   It is drinking very well, even days after bottling.
     Now to 2014.
DVD Interlude

            Jancis Robinson

              Biodynamism in Burgundy
                        Terroir

           Oregon (Willamette Valley AVA)

      Pinot Noir in California (Russian River AVA)

                                              15 minutes
Napa
Valley
Napa Valley AVA
and several
smaller AVAs:
Rutherford,
St Helena,
Oakville,         4
Stags Leap,
Yountville
Clos du Val

   A Napa Valley icon!
   Founded in 1970; first wines 1972 Cabernet
    Sauvignon
   Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon competed with
    Bordeaux wines in famous 1976 Paris blind
    tasting
   Prime vineyards in Stags Leap, (near Yountville)
    & Los Carneros
4. Clos du Val Merlot, 2006

   77% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon,
    7% Cabernet Franc
       cf Pomerol & St Emilion
4. Clos du Val Merlot 2006

   A consumer’s view:
   Nose: plum and chocolate, cherry and
    cinnamon, pepper and a little oak.
   Palate: still a bit tannic, but had chocolate
    and cherry, pepper and plum, and a
    slightly spicy finish
Zinfandel
   Zinfandel is a variety of red grape planted in over 10
    percent of California vineyards
   DNA fingerprinting revealed that it is genetically
    equivalent to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski,
    and also the Primitivo variety traditionally grown
    in Puglia
   The grapes typically produce a robust red wine, although
    a semi-sweet rosé (blush-style) wine called White
    Zinfandel has six times the sales of the red wine in
    the United States
   The grape's high sugar content can be fermented into
    levels of alcohol exceeding 15 percent.
Today’s   1
wines         4
          2       5
                      7
5. Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine
Zinfandel, 2009
   Joel Petersen founded in 1976
   A champion of Zinfandel
   77% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Syrah
   Sourced from: 97% Lodi, 3% North Coast
   Aging: 18 months French Oak, 30% new
   Skin Contact: 7–9 days of skin contact during
   Native fermentation
   Alcohol: 14.5%
   Drink now, or age another 5–7 years
5. Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine
Zinfandel, 2009
   Aromas and flavours: Dried currants,
    spice, plum, and wild berry along with self-
    assured, muscular tannins and balanced
    acidity
   Unbelievable with lasagna, grilled pepper
    steak, or stew
6


3
6. Duck Pond Cellars Cabernet
Sauvignon, 2010
   Duck Pond Cellars is a family winery which owns and
    operates 340 acres of vineyards in northern Oregon (for
    Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris) and 520 acres in Columbia
    River AVA, eastern Washington (for Cabernet
    Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot).
   80.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 1.5%
    Merlot
   The vines spread their roots through the sand and rock
    of the Eastern Washington desert seeking moisture.
   The resulting fruit is produced with great effort and is
    extremely concentrated in flavour with rich and ripe
    blackcurrant flavours with a backdrop of cedar and
    spice.
6. Duck Pond Cellars Cabernet
Sauvignon, 2010
   Colour:
   Aroma:
   Palate: This wine embodies the elements of its creation:
    rich and ripe fruit flavours, (current, raisin, cherry & plum)
    powerful body and a heady aroma. Great balance lends
    the wine to a variety of food pairings; match for intensity.
7. Turner’s Crossing, Cabernet
Sauvignon 2004. Bendigo
 Bendigo, Central Victoria [Loddon River!]
 Selected grapes; matured for 18 months in French oak

Look
    Density of colour?

    Rim?

Aroma
    Vanilla from oak casks

    Blackcurrants, mulberries, plums, pepper, cloves.

Taste
    Full-bodied, huge, rich, fruity with hints of the flavours
     of matured red wine:
          leather, game, tar, cigar box, chocolate
8. Quady Winery Elysium Black
Muscat, 2009
   From Madera in the Central Valley.
   Black Muscat is known in Europe as a table grape
    variety, Muscat Hamburg, one of the very few black
    skinned muscats. If ripened to as sweetness of about 25
    brix, it attains a rose-like aroma and lychee-like flavour.
   Elysium is used to either accompany or replace dessert.
    It is wonderful with blue cheeses, with desserts
    containing red fruits (such as Summer Pudding,, with
    vanilla, with dark chocolate, with ice cream desserts.
    One favourite is to pour the wine onto vanilla ice cream.
Black Muscat grapes
8. Quady Winery Elysium Black
Muscat, 2009
   With nearly 200 g/l residual sugar, this wine is
    enormously sweet in honey and black cherry flavours,
    balanced by brilliant acidity. For something unusual, try
    with a runny cheese, like a soft Gorgonzola.
Today’s wines
1. Bonterra, Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino & Lake Co, 2008    £10.99 W
2. Cartlidge and Browne, Chardonnay, North Coast, 2010     £9.50 WS
3. Six Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2008       £9.50 WS
4. Clos du Val, Merlot, Napa Valley, 2006                  £17.95 S
5. Ravenswood, Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel, 2009               £8.75 * WS
6. Duck Pond Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia River, WA, 2010
                                                           £14.60 S
7. Turner’s Crossing, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bendigo, 2004    £15.00 OZ
8. Quady Winery Elysium, Black Muscat, 2009 [37.5cl]       £10.70 *


W    Waitrose   * Majestic    WS Wine   Society   S Slurp.co.uk OZ   OZWINES
Aroma test

   Which of today’s wines is this?

   Think of characteristic aromas!
Best value

   Which of today’s range offers best value?
Next session

    Wednesday 13 June 2012
          at 2.30pm


          Viognier

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Intermediate Wine Course: California & Pacific Northwest

  • 1. Intermediate Wine Course: IV 16 May 2012 Nth California & the Pacific North-West Copyright © Brian Jamieson
  • 2. USA wine production  Wineries in all 50 States  Main centres: California, Oregon, Washington and New York.  Post-Pylloxera, familiar European varieties on native American root stocks  American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) since 1980: can be a whole County or a small geographic area; e. g. Mendocino AVA and Oakville AVA
  • 3. Californian wine production  Thriving wine industry before Phylloxera in late 1880s  Prohibition in 1920s  1930-1960: Cheap, bulk wines from Central Valley  1960–present: Explosive growth in quality and quantity; small boutique wineries  Polarisation of size of winery and quality (and cost) of wine  Quality wines from cooler regions: Davis Zones I-III
  • 4. Wineries in California by County  Napa 284  Sonoma 210  San Luis Obispo 98  Santa Barbara 50  Mendocino 46  TOTAL 1,050
  • 5. Today’s 1 wines 4 2 5 7
  • 6. Davis Climatic Zones  Region I: <2,500 degree days  Bordeaux, Champagne  Region II: 2,500-3,000 degree days  Nth Italy (Piemonte)  Region III: 3,000-3,500 degree days  Nth Spain  Region IV: 3,500-4,000 degree days  Cape Province SA, Tuscany  Region V: >4,000 degree days  Western Australia
  • 7.
  • 9.
  • 10. 1. Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc, 2008  Blend of organic fruit from Mendocino and Lake counties.  95% Sauvignon Blanc; 4% Muscat; 1% Chardonnay  100% Cold stainless steel fermentation  Residual Sugar: 4.7 grams/l  Alcohol: 13.2%
  • 11. Bonterra Vineyards Bonterra has been producing wine from 100% organically-grown grapes since 1993. Some Biodynamic practices, too.
  • 13. 1. Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc, 2008  Colour: Pale-green  Aroma: Intense aromas of grapefruit, citrus, kiwi and fresh cut grass greet the nose  Palate: The crisp acidity gives the wine a fresh vibrant feel with flavours of grapefruit, lime zest and grass that closes with flavours of melon and a nice tart finish.
  • 14. 2. Cartlidge and Browne Chardonnay, North Coast, 2010  The Cartlidge and Browne winery is in Santa Rosa, Nth Sonoma  Cartlidge and Browne buy in grapes from their extensive contact list of growers, in Mendocino, Sonoma and the Sierra foothills.  The winemaker, Paul Moser, aims to make wines in the restrained European style where quality relies on fruit and balance rather than power.  The chardonnays have bags of fresh fruit flavour and are considered to be among California’s best value whites.
  • 15. 2. Cartlidge and Browne Chardonnay, North Coast 2010  Aroma: green, red and brown apple medley and more floral honeysuckle lead.  Palate: both silky and alive. Flavours of honey and baked bread from sur lees aging while maintaining a delicious fruit profile.  Very French in style with an elegant minerality and complexity combined with the slightest caramel and brown sugar notes.
  • 18. 5 3
  • 19. 3. Six Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2008  Eric Lemelson came to the wine business after a previous career as an environmental lawyer  First Pinot Noir vines were planted in 1995. Today some 120 acres and a unique state-of-the-art winery  The vineyards have been farmed organically given Lemelson’s environmental background and belief that grapes develop their full flavour potential without the use of synthetic chemicals  A fine, plump, cherry-fruited pinot blended from six vineyard sites, and now Lemelson’s second label.
  • 20. 3. Six Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2008  Nose: it has great aromatic complexity with strawberry, plum, dried flowers, ripe black cherries and subtle earth.  Palate: is bright and fresh with lovely, sweet red cherry and citrus throughout the soft, medium-bodied mid- palate. Bigger than average tannins serve to create an unusually long finish for this wine  It is drinking very well, even days after bottling. Now to 2014.
  • 21. DVD Interlude Jancis Robinson  Biodynamism in Burgundy  Terroir  Oregon (Willamette Valley AVA)  Pinot Noir in California (Russian River AVA) 15 minutes
  • 22. Napa Valley Napa Valley AVA and several smaller AVAs: Rutherford, St Helena, Oakville, 4 Stags Leap, Yountville
  • 23. Clos du Val  A Napa Valley icon!  Founded in 1970; first wines 1972 Cabernet Sauvignon  Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon competed with Bordeaux wines in famous 1976 Paris blind tasting  Prime vineyards in Stags Leap, (near Yountville) & Los Carneros
  • 24. 4. Clos du Val Merlot, 2006  77% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc  cf Pomerol & St Emilion
  • 25. 4. Clos du Val Merlot 2006  A consumer’s view:  Nose: plum and chocolate, cherry and cinnamon, pepper and a little oak.  Palate: still a bit tannic, but had chocolate and cherry, pepper and plum, and a slightly spicy finish
  • 26. Zinfandel  Zinfandel is a variety of red grape planted in over 10 percent of California vineyards  DNA fingerprinting revealed that it is genetically equivalent to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski, and also the Primitivo variety traditionally grown in Puglia  The grapes typically produce a robust red wine, although a semi-sweet rosé (blush-style) wine called White Zinfandel has six times the sales of the red wine in the United States  The grape's high sugar content can be fermented into levels of alcohol exceeding 15 percent.
  • 27. Today’s 1 wines 4 2 5 7
  • 28. 5. Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel, 2009  Joel Petersen founded in 1976  A champion of Zinfandel  77% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Syrah  Sourced from: 97% Lodi, 3% North Coast  Aging: 18 months French Oak, 30% new  Skin Contact: 7–9 days of skin contact during  Native fermentation  Alcohol: 14.5%  Drink now, or age another 5–7 years
  • 29. 5. Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel, 2009  Aromas and flavours: Dried currants, spice, plum, and wild berry along with self- assured, muscular tannins and balanced acidity  Unbelievable with lasagna, grilled pepper steak, or stew
  • 30. 6 3
  • 31. 6. Duck Pond Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010  Duck Pond Cellars is a family winery which owns and operates 340 acres of vineyards in northern Oregon (for Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris) and 520 acres in Columbia River AVA, eastern Washington (for Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot).  80.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Merlot  The vines spread their roots through the sand and rock of the Eastern Washington desert seeking moisture.  The resulting fruit is produced with great effort and is extremely concentrated in flavour with rich and ripe blackcurrant flavours with a backdrop of cedar and spice.
  • 32. 6. Duck Pond Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010  Colour:  Aroma:  Palate: This wine embodies the elements of its creation: rich and ripe fruit flavours, (current, raisin, cherry & plum) powerful body and a heady aroma. Great balance lends the wine to a variety of food pairings; match for intensity.
  • 33. 7. Turner’s Crossing, Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. Bendigo  Bendigo, Central Victoria [Loddon River!]  Selected grapes; matured for 18 months in French oak Look  Density of colour?  Rim? Aroma  Vanilla from oak casks  Blackcurrants, mulberries, plums, pepper, cloves. Taste  Full-bodied, huge, rich, fruity with hints of the flavours of matured red wine:  leather, game, tar, cigar box, chocolate
  • 34.
  • 35. 8. Quady Winery Elysium Black Muscat, 2009  From Madera in the Central Valley.  Black Muscat is known in Europe as a table grape variety, Muscat Hamburg, one of the very few black skinned muscats. If ripened to as sweetness of about 25 brix, it attains a rose-like aroma and lychee-like flavour.  Elysium is used to either accompany or replace dessert. It is wonderful with blue cheeses, with desserts containing red fruits (such as Summer Pudding,, with vanilla, with dark chocolate, with ice cream desserts. One favourite is to pour the wine onto vanilla ice cream.
  • 37. 8. Quady Winery Elysium Black Muscat, 2009  With nearly 200 g/l residual sugar, this wine is enormously sweet in honey and black cherry flavours, balanced by brilliant acidity. For something unusual, try with a runny cheese, like a soft Gorgonzola.
  • 38. Today’s wines 1. Bonterra, Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino & Lake Co, 2008 £10.99 W 2. Cartlidge and Browne, Chardonnay, North Coast, 2010 £9.50 WS 3. Six Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2008 £9.50 WS 4. Clos du Val, Merlot, Napa Valley, 2006 £17.95 S 5. Ravenswood, Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel, 2009 £8.75 * WS 6. Duck Pond Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia River, WA, 2010 £14.60 S 7. Turner’s Crossing, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bendigo, 2004 £15.00 OZ 8. Quady Winery Elysium, Black Muscat, 2009 [37.5cl] £10.70 * W Waitrose * Majestic WS Wine Society S Slurp.co.uk OZ OZWINES
  • 39. Aroma test  Which of today’s wines is this?  Think of characteristic aromas!
  • 40. Best value  Which of today’s range offers best value?
  • 41. Next session Wednesday 13 June 2012 at 2.30pm Viognier