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EUROPEAN APPAREL MARKET - SUMMARY
     Importadores y Distribuidores
           Lex van Boeckel – Searce
                 March 2013
THE EU APPAREL MARKET

  CONTENTS
    Market size

    Market differences

    Fast fashion

    Apparel sub-sectors

    Knitted and woven clothing

    Price levels

    Trends and Future

    Opportunities
THE EU APPAREL MARKET SIZE
Apparel

                        – EU apparel market € 311 billion in
                          2010.

                        – Europe (27 countries) is the largest
                          apparel market in the world.

                        ― 30% of the global market.

                        – Europe (EU 27) is followed by:

                          •   North America (USA + Canada) - 29%,
                          •   Asia Pacific (including Japan) - 27%,
                          •   Latin America                   - 6%
                          •   Other regions                   - 7%.
THE EU MARKET DIFFERENCES
Apparel

                       – More differences than the USA.

                       – EU market is hightly fragmented
                         and competitive.

                       – Diversity in outfits in the North,
                         West, South and in the East being
                         related to climate and culture.

                       – Germany is the largest market.

                       – Italy, France, UK leaders in fashion
                         trends.

                       – Consumer spending on clothing:
                            • German consumers spent around
                              4.4% of their total expenditure.
                            • Danish consumers spent 5.6%
                            • Polish consumers spent 2.2%.
EU APPAREL MARKET DIFFERENCES
People in the West and the North

    People in the West and North are relatively more detached.

― Women are more emancipated by wearing what they want.
  (mood or situation)

― People in the North are more relaxed. The climate can be
  extremely cold (-15 – 25) with many wet seasons (snow & rain)
   often they wear comfortable, practical (waterproof) clothing.



    Dress codes at work are more casual. Formal - classics with a twist.

–   Women dress up for special occasions or when going out.

–   Consumers here are well aware of sustainability issues (transparency).
EU APPAREL MARKET DIFFERENCES
People in the South

   People in the South are more extravagant,
   leading a more ‘Bourgondian life’

― There is more a ‘flirt culture’
  women are dressed more feminine
  men are dressed in style.

― In Italy, France and Spain designs are
  very diverse.
― There is more personalisation by designs,
  brands and lively colours.
― Less ‘mainstream fashion followers’.

   Brands here have a long tradition and a good reputation.

― But large difference between people in cities and on countryside.
EU APPAREL MARKET DIFFERENCES
People in the East

   People in the East are rather practical in their choice of clothing.

― Younger people are attracted to western style clothing.

― New countries increasingly exposed to western clothing
  chains, hypermarkets, factory outlets and second-hand
  outlets (e.g. Zara).

― Big mainstream brands are very important = high quality.



    Wages are still much lower

― Formal clothing styles are quite pronounced
  sometimes regarded as ‘kitsch’
FAST FASHION IN THE EU
Apparel

   Mainly for teens, tweenies (pre-teens 8 – 12 years), young people:
    ‘Standardized outfits’
   o   Fashionable
   o   Low in price
   o   Heavily promoted
    Product development is vital
   o up to 6 collections per year – or more
   o Many teens want to look like adults and stars.

   Fast fashion retailers: Inditex, Vivarte, Mango, H&M,
   Bestseller, Esprit, Next, Arcadia, Benetton, C&A, etc...
    28,000 (fast) fashion chain outlets in Europe
   o incl. clothing discounters e.g. Primark, Takko, Kiabi, Gémo...

    Independent fashion stores offering medium-high range,
     non-mainstream fashion – many have a difficult time now.
EU APPAREL MARKET SUB-SECTORS

•   KNITTED AND WOVEN CLOTHING
    Largest sub-sector covering trousers & shorts, shirts & blouses,
    T-shirts, jerseys & cardigans, dresses & skirts, suits & ensembles,
    jackets, blazers & coats.
•   LEATHER CLOTHING
    Jackets, coats, belts, gloves, trousers, leggings, shorts, skirts,
    dresses and vests.
•   BODYWEAR
    Underwear, intimates incl. lingerie & shapewear, bras,
    night & indoor wear and hosiery.
•   BABYWEAR
    Baby jackets, coats, romper suits, vests, pants, napkins, gloves,
    mitts and mittens.
•    SPORTS CLOTHING
     Anoraks, tracksuits, swimwear, beachwear, special sportswear
    (fitness, racket sports, teamsports, snowsports, golf), outdoor sports.
EU APPAREL MARKET SUB-SECTORS
Share by value
EU APPAREL MARKET SUB-SECTORS
Development 2006 - 2010
EU APPAREL MARKET SUB-SECTORS
Knitted and woven clothing
SUB-SECTOR - KNITTED AND WOVEN
EU Apparel – Product and Main suppliers
    PRODUCTION
•   Around € 74 billion of knitted & woven clothing was made in Europe (Italy, France, Germany, Spain,
    Portugal, UK, Denmark, Poland, Romania and Bulgaria).
•   Most was exported to the EU countries and to the BRICS-countries.
•   Due to more outsourcing (Asia), the number of medium-large sized textile
    companies has decreased in the past two decades to 47,000 (2010).
•   Main importing manufacturers/brands were: Adidas, Valentino Fashion
    (Hugo Boss), Benetton, Triumph, PPR/Gucci (Puma, Gucci), Bestseller
    Group (Vero Moda, Jack & Jones, Only), Only the Brave (Diesel),
    Pentland (Speedo, Elesse), LVMH (Louis Vuitton, Fendi, DKNY)...



    MAIN SUPPLIERS (2010)  EU imports € 95 billion (55% from DCs)
•   China (import share was 25%), Turkey (8%), Bangladesh (6%), India (4%), Morocco (2%), Tunisia (2%), Vietnam,
    Indonesia, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Egypt...
•   Fast growing: Albania, Moldova, Mexico, Philippines, Laos, Honduras, Colombia, Nepal, Mongolia and Armenia.
•   Other EU countries, USA, Canada and Asian countries such as South Korea, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore are excluded here .
EU APPAREL MARKET
Price levels

          There are in Western and Northern EU countries five different price-quality levels

      Segment               Share    Description                          Examples of prices
      High price luxury        4%    High quality, designer brands,       Dolce & Gabbana: Dresses €245-€1,750; Tops
      segment                        exclusive, trend setting             €135-€995; Sweaters €160-€395
      Upper middle price       12%   Branded, high quality, good choice   Hugo Boss: Dresses €149-€599; Tops €29-€195;
      segment                        of designs, well-made                Sweaters €99-€249
      Middle price             32%   Good to medium quality, trend        Diesel: Dresses €35-€180; Tops €16-€110;
      segment                        following, well-known high street    Sweaters €30-€85
                                     brands
      Low to middle price      41%   Produced in larger quantities, more Marks & Spencer: Dresses €15-€69; Tops €5-€40;
      segment                        basic styles and fitting, medium    Sweaters €18-€185
                                     quality, less fashionable
      Low or very low          11%   Produced in large quantities, low
      price segment                  quality, unbranded


       – The low-middle segments taking up high share of the EU apparel market.
       – Lower segments are more represented in Eastern EU countries.
EU APPAREL MARKET
Main Trends

•   Fast fashion is still rising - clothing retailers and hypermarkets
    still expanding. Especially in the new EU member states.
•   Pressurized margins for all actors in the value chain.
    -   Fickle consumer demand
    -   Growing competition retailers
    -   Oversupply of cheap imports
    -   Increased cotton prices
    -   Rising wages China.

•   H&M and Zara are still doing well - compensation by new business
    in Asia – and by diversification in e.g. home furnishings.
•   However - Fast fashion is slowing down:
        o Changing consumer behaviour & confidence
        o Growing fatigue to keep up with trends.

•   Move away from mainstream fashion.

•   Boho style and Vintage still popular.

•   Trading up to better quality clothing that is comfortable and lasts longer.
EU APPAREL MARKET
The Future

    Aging population (in 2020 – 50% will be OVER 50 years)  new variations .
•   Consumers are:
       more individualising
       more professionalising
       more influenced by media
       more participatory – they want to interact more
        with producers, retailers and ‘tailor-made’.
       more keen on prices – value for money.
       Private label quality has improved – Germany.
       claiming more for social and ecological responsibility.
       Ethical fashion market was € 10 billion in the USA and around
        € 1 billion in the EU (UK, Germany, Scandinavia, Switzerland,
        Netherlands, France and Italy).

    The Eastern EU markets are still expected to show growth
    due to a growing middle class and expansion of chains.
EU APPAREL MARKET
Opportunities

•   Around 100 countries supplied the EU with clothing and textiles in 2010.

•   Countries in Latin America produced less than 5% of the EU’s apparel supplies
     Big challenge!
•   Smart combinations of Fashion – Comfort and Convenient/Functionality.

•   Fashion accessories (shawls, hats, gloves..) that go well with your e.g. dresses
    collection.

•   Clothing for the plus size segment.

•   Diversity in the European consumers (immigrants) and the growing tourist market (China, Russia)

•   Eco and Ethical fashion e.g. by using organic cotton, sustainable principles
    within the whole value chain incl. fair trade practices. More variation in styles !

•   On-line sales are still increasing due to busier lifestyles, new small
    entrepreneurs in on-line selling.
    Internet connections are still expanding.
EU APPAREL MARKET
Key Succes factors

    Good comprehension of your market potential and key target
     markets and assessment of your risks and weaknesses (SWOT
     analysis).

    As the EU market is quite diverse focus on one country - or a
     cluster of countries.

    Clever product/market combinations based on a good knowledge of the market.
     We will give an example on the German market for women’s control underwear.

    Don’t just compete on price as the Asian countries do.

    Strategy: Know how to (co-) design, assess future trends within your target market (seasonal,
     short terms, long term), choose the right channel, sizing, pricing and promotion.

    Supply: If you supply to fast fashion retailers try to be geared up to make short runs, do more
     preplanning and use collaborative software with your customer.
3 presentationapparelmarket lexfinal

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3 presentationapparelmarket lexfinal

  • 1. EUROPEAN APPAREL MARKET - SUMMARY Importadores y Distribuidores Lex van Boeckel – Searce March 2013
  • 2. THE EU APPAREL MARKET CONTENTS Market size Market differences Fast fashion Apparel sub-sectors Knitted and woven clothing Price levels Trends and Future Opportunities
  • 3. THE EU APPAREL MARKET SIZE Apparel – EU apparel market € 311 billion in 2010. – Europe (27 countries) is the largest apparel market in the world. ― 30% of the global market. – Europe (EU 27) is followed by: • North America (USA + Canada) - 29%, • Asia Pacific (including Japan) - 27%, • Latin America - 6% • Other regions - 7%.
  • 4. THE EU MARKET DIFFERENCES Apparel – More differences than the USA. – EU market is hightly fragmented and competitive. – Diversity in outfits in the North, West, South and in the East being related to climate and culture. – Germany is the largest market. – Italy, France, UK leaders in fashion trends. – Consumer spending on clothing: • German consumers spent around 4.4% of their total expenditure. • Danish consumers spent 5.6% • Polish consumers spent 2.2%.
  • 5. EU APPAREL MARKET DIFFERENCES People in the West and the North People in the West and North are relatively more detached. ― Women are more emancipated by wearing what they want. (mood or situation) ― People in the North are more relaxed. The climate can be extremely cold (-15 – 25) with many wet seasons (snow & rain)  often they wear comfortable, practical (waterproof) clothing. Dress codes at work are more casual. Formal - classics with a twist. – Women dress up for special occasions or when going out. – Consumers here are well aware of sustainability issues (transparency).
  • 6. EU APPAREL MARKET DIFFERENCES People in the South People in the South are more extravagant, leading a more ‘Bourgondian life’ ― There is more a ‘flirt culture’ women are dressed more feminine men are dressed in style. ― In Italy, France and Spain designs are very diverse. ― There is more personalisation by designs, brands and lively colours. ― Less ‘mainstream fashion followers’. Brands here have a long tradition and a good reputation. ― But large difference between people in cities and on countryside.
  • 7. EU APPAREL MARKET DIFFERENCES People in the East People in the East are rather practical in their choice of clothing. ― Younger people are attracted to western style clothing. ― New countries increasingly exposed to western clothing chains, hypermarkets, factory outlets and second-hand outlets (e.g. Zara). ― Big mainstream brands are very important = high quality. Wages are still much lower ― Formal clothing styles are quite pronounced sometimes regarded as ‘kitsch’
  • 8. FAST FASHION IN THE EU Apparel Mainly for teens, tweenies (pre-teens 8 – 12 years), young people:  ‘Standardized outfits’ o Fashionable o Low in price o Heavily promoted  Product development is vital o up to 6 collections per year – or more o Many teens want to look like adults and stars. Fast fashion retailers: Inditex, Vivarte, Mango, H&M, Bestseller, Esprit, Next, Arcadia, Benetton, C&A, etc...  28,000 (fast) fashion chain outlets in Europe o incl. clothing discounters e.g. Primark, Takko, Kiabi, Gémo...  Independent fashion stores offering medium-high range, non-mainstream fashion – many have a difficult time now.
  • 9. EU APPAREL MARKET SUB-SECTORS • KNITTED AND WOVEN CLOTHING Largest sub-sector covering trousers & shorts, shirts & blouses, T-shirts, jerseys & cardigans, dresses & skirts, suits & ensembles, jackets, blazers & coats. • LEATHER CLOTHING Jackets, coats, belts, gloves, trousers, leggings, shorts, skirts, dresses and vests. • BODYWEAR Underwear, intimates incl. lingerie & shapewear, bras, night & indoor wear and hosiery. • BABYWEAR Baby jackets, coats, romper suits, vests, pants, napkins, gloves, mitts and mittens. • SPORTS CLOTHING Anoraks, tracksuits, swimwear, beachwear, special sportswear (fitness, racket sports, teamsports, snowsports, golf), outdoor sports.
  • 10. EU APPAREL MARKET SUB-SECTORS Share by value
  • 11. EU APPAREL MARKET SUB-SECTORS Development 2006 - 2010
  • 12. EU APPAREL MARKET SUB-SECTORS Knitted and woven clothing
  • 13. SUB-SECTOR - KNITTED AND WOVEN EU Apparel – Product and Main suppliers PRODUCTION • Around € 74 billion of knitted & woven clothing was made in Europe (Italy, France, Germany, Spain, Portugal, UK, Denmark, Poland, Romania and Bulgaria). • Most was exported to the EU countries and to the BRICS-countries. • Due to more outsourcing (Asia), the number of medium-large sized textile companies has decreased in the past two decades to 47,000 (2010). • Main importing manufacturers/brands were: Adidas, Valentino Fashion (Hugo Boss), Benetton, Triumph, PPR/Gucci (Puma, Gucci), Bestseller Group (Vero Moda, Jack & Jones, Only), Only the Brave (Diesel), Pentland (Speedo, Elesse), LVMH (Louis Vuitton, Fendi, DKNY)... MAIN SUPPLIERS (2010)  EU imports € 95 billion (55% from DCs) • China (import share was 25%), Turkey (8%), Bangladesh (6%), India (4%), Morocco (2%), Tunisia (2%), Vietnam, Indonesia, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Egypt... • Fast growing: Albania, Moldova, Mexico, Philippines, Laos, Honduras, Colombia, Nepal, Mongolia and Armenia. • Other EU countries, USA, Canada and Asian countries such as South Korea, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore are excluded here .
  • 14. EU APPAREL MARKET Price levels There are in Western and Northern EU countries five different price-quality levels Segment Share Description Examples of prices High price luxury 4% High quality, designer brands, Dolce & Gabbana: Dresses €245-€1,750; Tops segment exclusive, trend setting €135-€995; Sweaters €160-€395 Upper middle price 12% Branded, high quality, good choice Hugo Boss: Dresses €149-€599; Tops €29-€195; segment of designs, well-made Sweaters €99-€249 Middle price 32% Good to medium quality, trend Diesel: Dresses €35-€180; Tops €16-€110; segment following, well-known high street Sweaters €30-€85 brands Low to middle price 41% Produced in larger quantities, more Marks & Spencer: Dresses €15-€69; Tops €5-€40; segment basic styles and fitting, medium Sweaters €18-€185 quality, less fashionable Low or very low 11% Produced in large quantities, low price segment quality, unbranded – The low-middle segments taking up high share of the EU apparel market. – Lower segments are more represented in Eastern EU countries.
  • 15. EU APPAREL MARKET Main Trends • Fast fashion is still rising - clothing retailers and hypermarkets still expanding. Especially in the new EU member states. • Pressurized margins for all actors in the value chain. - Fickle consumer demand - Growing competition retailers - Oversupply of cheap imports - Increased cotton prices - Rising wages China. • H&M and Zara are still doing well - compensation by new business in Asia – and by diversification in e.g. home furnishings. • However - Fast fashion is slowing down: o Changing consumer behaviour & confidence o Growing fatigue to keep up with trends. • Move away from mainstream fashion. • Boho style and Vintage still popular. • Trading up to better quality clothing that is comfortable and lasts longer.
  • 16. EU APPAREL MARKET The Future Aging population (in 2020 – 50% will be OVER 50 years)  new variations . • Consumers are:  more individualising  more professionalising  more influenced by media  more participatory – they want to interact more with producers, retailers and ‘tailor-made’.  more keen on prices – value for money.  Private label quality has improved – Germany.  claiming more for social and ecological responsibility.  Ethical fashion market was € 10 billion in the USA and around € 1 billion in the EU (UK, Germany, Scandinavia, Switzerland, Netherlands, France and Italy). The Eastern EU markets are still expected to show growth due to a growing middle class and expansion of chains.
  • 17. EU APPAREL MARKET Opportunities • Around 100 countries supplied the EU with clothing and textiles in 2010. • Countries in Latin America produced less than 5% of the EU’s apparel supplies  Big challenge! • Smart combinations of Fashion – Comfort and Convenient/Functionality. • Fashion accessories (shawls, hats, gloves..) that go well with your e.g. dresses collection. • Clothing for the plus size segment. • Diversity in the European consumers (immigrants) and the growing tourist market (China, Russia) • Eco and Ethical fashion e.g. by using organic cotton, sustainable principles within the whole value chain incl. fair trade practices. More variation in styles ! • On-line sales are still increasing due to busier lifestyles, new small entrepreneurs in on-line selling. Internet connections are still expanding.
  • 18. EU APPAREL MARKET Key Succes factors  Good comprehension of your market potential and key target markets and assessment of your risks and weaknesses (SWOT analysis).  As the EU market is quite diverse focus on one country - or a cluster of countries.  Clever product/market combinations based on a good knowledge of the market. We will give an example on the German market for women’s control underwear.  Don’t just compete on price as the Asian countries do.  Strategy: Know how to (co-) design, assess future trends within your target market (seasonal, short terms, long term), choose the right channel, sizing, pricing and promotion.  Supply: If you supply to fast fashion retailers try to be geared up to make short runs, do more preplanning and use collaborative software with your customer.