The document discusses various types of decorative woven fabrics including plain weave, twill weave, fancy weaves, pile fabrics, leno weave, crepe weave, double cloth weaves, and slack tension weaves. It provides examples of each type of weave and describes their distinguishing characteristics and production methods. Complex weaves like jacquard, brocade, and damask use additional warp or filling yarns to create intricate patterns in the fabric structure.

1. +
WOVEN FABRICS - Review

2. +
Decorative Effects
 Plain Weave Examples:
 Warp and/or Filling direction stripes
 Stripes
 gingham
 plaids
 Twill Weave Examples:
 Houndstooth
 Herringbone
 Plaids

3. +
Unbalanced Plain Weave (RIB)
with Warp Stripes (Yarn Dyed)

4. Twill with warp & weft stripes
 NOTE the skew
that causes the
fabric to be off
grain.
 The skew make
the plaid’s
horizontal
stripes not at a
right angle to
the vertical
stripes.

5. +
Fancy /
Complex
Weaves
Interlacing pattern is controlled by:
warp yarns’ position during weaving

6. + Production of Fancy Weaves
Complex
Cost
Specialized
Techniques

7. +
Fancy/Complex Weave
main categories:
 Figure, or novelty weaves
 Surface figure weaves
 Pile weaves
 Double cloth
 Leno weave
 Crepe weave
 Slack-tension weave

8. + Figureor
Novelty Weaves
 Variationor combination of
basic weaves - plain,
satin, and twill.
 Simple designs
 Complicated designs
 Damask, Brocade,
Brocatelle, Jacquard
Tapestry, & Wilton Rugs

9. +
Figure Weaves: Jacquard
 Large-figured
designs that require
more than 25
different
arrangements of the
warp yarns to
complete one
repeat design are
jacquard weaves.

10. +
Figure Weaves – Jacquard
 Figure weaves with large repeats or non-
repeating designs with curves.
 Each yarn is controlled independently to create
intricate designs.

11. +
Figure Weaves – Jacquard

12. + Figure Weaves: Damask
green warp and beige filling
Satin floats on a satin background
The floats in the design are opposite those in the ground

13. Figure Weaves: Damask
filament warp and spun filling

14. +
Figure Weaves: Damask
Striped warp and solid filling Same color warp and filling

15. +
Figure Weaves:
Brocade
 Extra warp or filling yarns provide
pattern on a solid color
background
 Has satin or still floats on a
plain, ribbed, twill, or satin
background
 How Brocade varies from
Damask:
 Floats in the design are more
varied in length
 Often of several colors

16. Figure Weaves: Brocade

17. Figure Weaves: Brocatelle
Similar to Brocade fabrics
EXCEPT they have a raised
pattern
Frequently made from filament
yarns
Uses a warp-faced pattern and
+
filling-faced ground
Coarse cotton stuffer yarns help
maintain the 3D appearance

18. Figure Weaves: Brocatelle

19. +Figure Weaves: Jacquard Tapestry
 Originally,
hand-woven
with discontinuous filling
yarns.
 Commissioned to
celebrate military
success, then religious
images, then pastoral
scenes
 Wall hangings for warmth
 VERY time consuming to
weave

20. +
Figure Weaves: Jacquard Tapestry
 Today’s
jacquard tapestry is
mass produced for upholstery
and handbags
2 or more sets of warp and two
or more sets of filling yarns
interlaced so that:
 the face warp is never
woven into the
 the back filling does
not show on the face.

21. +
Figure Weaves:
Jacquard Wilton Rugs
 Figured-pile fabrics
made on a jacquard
loom.
 Once considered
imitations of Oriental
rugs
 VERY expensive to
weave!
 Now create similar
figures through printing
techniques

22. +
Figure Weaves:
Jacquard Wilton Rugs

23. +
Figure Weaves -Piqué
 “Pique” come from the French word
meaning “quilted.”
 Because of the raised effect in these
fabrics is similar to that in quilts.
 The Pique weave produces a fabric with
ridges, called wales or cords, that are
held up by floats on the back side of the
fabric.
 “Stuffer Yarns” are laid under the ridges in
better quality pique fabrics to emphasize
the roundness. (High Quality Indicator)
(Christian Dior Couture Fall 2009)

24. +
Tapestry Weave
Not the same as
jacquard tapestry
Usually
identified with
hand-woven textiles
Jacquard tapestry
“imitates” many hand-
woven textiles

25. +
Tapestry
• Hand produced,
filling faced, plain-
weave fabric
• Discontinuous filling
yarns are arranged
so that as the color
in the weave
changes, a pattern
is created

26. + Figure Weaves -Piqué
Reverse showing stuffer yarns
Face

27. +
–

28. +
–

29. + Figure Weaves – Crisscross pattern

30. +
Surface Figure Weave – Dobby
 Usually an Eight (8) harness loom
 Madras, Madras Gingham or
Shirting Madras
 Waffle cloth
 Huck
 Clipped-dot or clipped spot

31. +
Surface Figure Weave: Dobby
Hole-punch Loom System
CAD system

32. +
Surface Figure Weave: Dobby

33. + Extra Warp Yarns
Surface Figure or Front
Extra Yarn Weaves
 Named by the extra yarns
that form the design
 may be in the warp or filling yarn
direction
 Small repeating designs Back
 Ifextra yarns are
removed, ground fabric will
remain
 Extra yarns float across the
reverse side of the fabric

34. +
Surface Figure Weaves –
Unclipped Spot Extra filling yarns
form the design
 Madras gingham with
extra warp yarns used to
form the flowers
Front
Back

35. +
Surface Figure Weaves –
Unclipped Spot
The floating yarns
between the motifs
are not cut.

36. +
Surface Figure Weaves –
Unclipped Spot

37. +
Surface Figure Weaves –
Clipped Spot

38. +Surface Figure Weaves: Clipped
Spot – Dotted Swiss

39. +
Surface Figure Weaves:
Clipped Spot - Eyelash

40. +
Swivel Weave

41. +
Pile Weaves
 3-dimensional structures
 Weaving an extra set of warp or filling yarns
into the ground yarns
 Makes loops or cut ends on the surface
 Woven cut pile example:

42. +
Warp- and Weft-Pile Fabrics
 Warp pile: extra set of warp yarns form the pile
 Filling/weft pile: extra set of filling yarns form the pile

43. +
PILE FABRIC
 Warp pile fabrics.
 Double Cloth Method:
Velvet
 Over-the-wire Method:
 Terry cloth
 Friezé
 Weft or Filling Pile
 Velveteen
 Corduroy
 Used in:
 Outerwear
 Lining of coats, gloves, and boots
 Carpets, upholstery, bedspreads
 Absorbent towels and washcloths
 Stuffed Toys

44. Warp Pile - Velvet –
Double Cloth Method

45. +
Warp Pile – Velvet


46. +
Warp Pile – Velvet

47. +
Warp Pile – Velvet

48. +
Warp Pile - Panne Velvet

49. +
Warp Pile - Devore Velvet

50. +
Warp Pile:
Over-the-Wire

51. + Warp Pile -Over-the-wire:
Loops are very regular and in rows

52. +
Warp Pile - Over-the-wire:
Terry Cloth
 Uncut pile fabrics manufactured with
an extra set of warp yarns to create
the loop by slack-tension method.
 Terry toweling quality, cost, and
durability depend on weave type (plain
or twill), count of base cloth, and loop
characteristics.
 Terry cloth has pile on both sides of
the fabric. Some fabrics have pile on
the face side only.
 In velour (e.g., towels, robes), the
loops are sheared on one or both sides
to enhance appearance and softness.

53. +
Warp Pile -Over-the-wire:
Terry Cloth

54. +
Warp Pile -Over-the-wire:
Terry Cloth

55. + Filling Pile Fabrics
 The pile in Filling-pile fabrics is made by long filling floats on
the surface that are cut after weaving
 Filling Pile Fabrics Examples
 Corduroy
 Velveteen

56. +
Filling Pile Weave - Corduroy
 Theextra set of filling yarns forms floats (similar to
velveteen).
 The floats are cut to create the pile in parallel lines along
the length of the fabric.

57. Filling Pile Weave: Corduroy

58. +
Filling Pile Weaves - Corduroy
 Ridges or cords, known as
wales, along the length of the
fabric
Described by:
Number of wales per inch,
e.g. 8 wale,10 wale,16 wale.
The higher the number of
wales, the finer the fabric.
Width of the wales.e.g,wide
wale,pinwale, and
featherwale.

59. +
Filling Pile Weaves - Corduroy

60. Filling Pile Weave: Velveteen
Filling Yarns

61. +
Filling Pile Weaves - Velveteen
Velveteen fabrics are woven with an
extra set of spun yarns.

62. +
Filling Pile Weave – Cotton Velveteen

63. +
Filling Pile Weave - Velveteen

64. + Warp Pile-like
(faux pile) Surfaces by Other Methods
Tufted
Flocked
surfaces

65. Tufting

66. +
Flocking
 Short fibers attached
to the surface of a
fabric with adhesive
 Placement of fibers
 Mechanical operation
 Electrostatic operation

67. +
Flocking application methods
Mechanical Electrostatic
Mechanical Application

68. +
Surface Figure Weaves: Extra Yarn
Lappet
Swivel
Leno

69. +Surface Figure Weaves:
Leno Weave
Extra Yarn - Leno
 Looking at Leno:
 Yarns are crossed and that
one yarn of the pair is always
above the other. Together
they wrap the perpendicular
yarn.
 Fabric names:
Marquisette
- Mosquito netting
 Casement fabrics used for
window treatments

70. +Surface Figure Weave:
Extra Yarn Weaves - Leno

71. +Surface Figure Weave:
Leno Weave
Extra Yarn Weaves - Leno

72. +
Surface Figure Weave:
Extra Yarn Weaves - Leno Marquisette

73. +
Momie or Crepe Weave
 Gives a pebble-like surface that looks like a
true crepe
 Presents no “wale” or other distinct weave
effect but gives the cloth the appearance of
being sprinkled with small spots (pebbles)

74. +
Momie or Crepe Weave
 Random interlacing of warp and filling
yarns that results in an irregular surface.
 Produced using a dobby attachment.
 The pebbly surface of the fabric is due to
distortion of the weave by the over-
twisted crepe yarns that shift once
tension during weaving is released.
 True crepe is produced with crepe yarns
(very high twist) in the warp and/or filling
direction of plain or satin weave fabrics.
 Crepe weave is used instead of true
crepe to reduce cost.

75. +
Momie or Crepe Weaves
 Granite Weave
 Crepe Weave (any fiber can be used to
make a crepe weave)
 Sand Crepe – medium-heavy weight
fabric; repeat pattern of 16:16; no float is
greater than 2 yarns in length
 Granite Cloth – momie weave based on a
satin weave; even-sided fabric; no long
floats, no twill effect
 Moss Crepe – combines high twist crepe
yarns and crepe weave
 Bark Cloth – heavyweight momie-weave;
found in furnishings; rough texture – tree
bark

76. +
Fancy Weave Warp Pile:
Double Cloth

77. +
Double Cloth
 Made from 3 or more
sets of yarns.
 The two sides of double-
cloth fabrics usually look
different because of the
fabrication method.
 Tends to be heavier and
have more body than
single cloths

78. + Examples of Each Double Cloth
 Double-faced double cloth (3 sets of yarns)
 satin ribbons with satin on both sides
 blankets or blanket fabric with sides that are different colors
 silence cloth
 Double weave double cloth (4 sets of yarns)
 pocket cloth
 matelassé
 Double cloth double
cloth (5 sets of yarns)
 melton
 kersey
 velvet

79. +
Double Cloth: Pocket Cloth

80. +

81. +
Double Weave Double Cloth:
Matlasse

82. + Double Weave Double Cloth:
Matelassé

83. +
Double Faced
Double Cloth Weaves
Double faced fabric is
constructed with
three sets of yarns.
 The combination can be
either two warp sets
and one filling set, or
vice versa.
 Examples:
 Double-sided satin
ribbon,
 Double georgette

84. +
Double-Faced Fabric

85. +
DOUBLE WEAVE

86. +
Double Weaves
Reverse
Face

87. Back
Front

88. +
Double Weaves

89. +
Double Weaves

90. +
Slack-tension Weave
Sections of warp yarns have
reduced tension.
Results in bands or stripes
of slightly puckered areas.
Because the puckering is
woven into the fabric, the
pucker cannot be flattened.
 Seersucker fabrics are
relatively more expensive to
produce as the fabrics are
woven at a slower speed.

91. +
Slack Tension: Seersucker

92. + Slack Tension Weaves
 Method: Two warp beams are used.
 The yarns on one beam are held at regular tension and those on the other
beam are held at slack tension.
 As the reed beats the filling yarns into place, the slack yarns crinkle or buckle
to form a puckered stripe
 The regular-tensioned yarns form the flat stripe
(Some warp yarns have less tension to create relaxed areas that result in
ripples or loops)
 Examples of slack tension fabrics:
 Seersucker (ripple areas, usually forming warp direction stripes)
 Terry cloth (loop areas, usually forming a slightly irregular set of pile loops)

93. Regular tension areas
Seersucker Slack tension areas

94. +
Narrow Fabrics
 Weaves used are the same as
previously discussed
 Examples:
 Elastics
 Velcro
 Piping
 Trims
 Ribbons
 satin weave
 rib weave (unbalanced
plain weave)
 Zipper tapes
 twill weave

95. +
Questions ??? ??? ???