1. My Pinch on the Rock Climbing Community:
A Deeper Look at What Makes a Climbing Community
By: Mackenzie Terzian
May 2012
Abstract
This monograph looks into the aspects of ‗togetherness‘ within the rock
climbing community. I focused my ethnographic research in hopes of finding
out why this ‗togetherness‘ forms, what it brings to the community, and how it
improves the skills of climbers. In all, this monograph is about what makes a
climbing community.
The basic concept of community is discussed, as well as diving deep into
aspects of community building surround the sport of rock climbing.
Introduction
Rock climbing requires a combination of physical and mental strength. While
physical strength can be formulated person by person, it sometimes takes a
group of tightly knit friends or members of a community to help one another
overcome and build mental power. I conducted ethnographic research on the
topic of the rock climbing community because I believe there is an interesting
and often overlooked dynamic that plays into the sport of rock climbing.
Within this monograph I will address the influences a community provides,
feelings of community in both competitive and non-competitive climbing
settings, possible cliques and acceptance roles that arise between climbers, and

2. idealistic aspects of what one gives and takes away from the climbing
community.
Originally, I began looking at two populations within the overall climbing
community: those that climb sport, and those that boulder. Sport climbing is a
form of climbing that involves using safety equipment (such as ropes1,
harnesses2, and belay devices3), climbing high distances (usually between 30 –
100 ft.), and often deals with overcoming your own fear or mental blockages.
Bouldering is a form of climbing that does not use ropes—but instead uses crash
pads4 and relies on spotters5 for safety, these problems never tend to be higher
than 25 feet, and stipulate the involvement of others.
Because of the intensified community aspects that surround bouldering-- I chose
to specifically focus my ethnographic research on the bouldering community.
When starting and planning out this research, I had a few preconceived ideas of
what I would discover; such as a common thread that links people to the sport
and life style of rock climbing, the component of ‗togetherness‘ between
members of the climbing community, and the probable desirability that
community members bring to those around them.
1 Ropes- safety device used to attach the climber to the rock face.
2 Harness- safety equipment that attaches the rope to the climber.
3 Belay Device- a small metal device used to catch the falls of climber,
attached to the individual belaying(catching) the climbing.
4 Crash pad- mattress like pad to protect falls when bouldering.
5 Spotters- Individuals who protect the safety of the climber by making sure
the fall zone is safe, and that the climber lands on the crash pad.

3. I have been a rock climber for the past three years, and consider myself an avid
member of the rock climbing community. I have always felt ‗safe‘ when
surrounded by other rock climbers— this is because of the deep bond that is
immediately formed between those who share a deep passion. I chose to look
deeper into the aforementioned ‗bond‘, because there is something magnificent
that has made its way from ‗village-life‘ to the sport of rock climbing. There is
an incredibly tight bond, attitudes and mannerisms of a family, life-trust placed
in the hands of others, and presence of individual and group identity within the
rock climbing community.
From this research I hoped to find exactly what goes into a climbing
community, as well as finding out exactly what members take away from this
community.
Methods
The methods that I used during my ethnographic research included
observation—both participatory and passive, surveys, interviews, and content
analysis on magazines, blogs and films made by rock climbers from around the
world.
During my passive observations-- which I describe passive because I was not
participating-- I observed boulderers climbing in different settings, and later
evaluated the different communal dynamics within each setting. For example, I
observed gym climbing, which deals primarily with training for outdoor

4. climbing. I also observed competitions, which test the strength and mentality of
climbers against one another.
I spent the first few days of my research involved in passive observations. This
provided me with a new outsider‘s view of the sport and the community. Since I
began this research as a rock climber and a member of the climbing community,
I originally found it difficult to withdraw myself from my preconceived ideas
and biases towards this life style. Once I separated myself from identifying as a
member of the community, and took a passive standing, I was able to observe
the climbers from an anthological view—looking primarily at what makes the
climbing community.
When my own palms began to perspire, and my ache for climbing arose, I
began my participant observation. During this method of observation, I joined
the boulderers in gym climbing, competitions, outdoor climbing trips, and
potlucks. Of these settings, and of the information that I drew from each, I
extracted analysis and conclusions unto what makes a climbing community. I
believe that participant observation, with an anthropological mind set, provided
me with abundant information on acceptance, formation, and common-threads
within the community.
I used surveys as a base for the information that I further addressed and
analyzed within interviews. I found the most beneficial type of question that I

5. used within my surveys were open-ended. This is because community aspects
transcribe through individuals differently—within all my questions, no two
answers were the same. This is why I believe my primary analysis was drawn
from interviewing individuals about personal experiences and attitudes within
the climbing community.
Figure 1.1 is the survey that I distributed to 10 members of the climbing
community in Arcata, California. From this survey I collected the average age
of the climbers I sampled, the approximate level dedication to the sport, and
how bonds and community characteristics arise between climbers.

6. As shown within Figure 1-1, this array of questions and breadth of coverage,
laid out a very beneficial base on which my research grew.
From the survey-formed foundation, I began to realize a few commonalities in
which I further questioned and analyzed within my interviews. The majority of
my interviews were conducted after a session6 of climbing, or after a
competition— this allowed my informants to provide me with answers that were
both fresh in their minds and directly from their (current) experience.
I believe that my usage of time was advantageous when it came to getting
informed answers. After a climbing session or a competition, individual
climbers are likely to portray exactly how their climbing experience was for
themselves, and how the community feed it.
While conducting content analysis, the breadth of my data came from online
blogs, magazines, and climbing films. Specifically, focusing on quotes about
community, bonds, or people, rather than the quotes about the sport or a climb.
Within the films, I found it helpful and beneficial to analyze the patterns of
formations in which boulders usually stood while climbing-- how they clustered
and dispersed around each climb.
6 Sessions- climbing with a few people, working on single or variety of
climbs—usually dealing with training.

7. Along with looking deep into the films, there is also a copious amount of
information about climbing with others stashed in many professional rock
climbers‘ blogs. From here, I gathered quotes that backed up my analysis, and
further proved my conclusions.
Results and Discussion
My findings were wide and detailed in several aspects. From my research, I
drew several conclusions that surround the idea of community between rock
climbers. My results primarily concluded my hypothesis of there being a
common thread that links climbers to this community, as well as leading my
analysis into a domino effect of unfolding relations that I never before
considered.
Within my research I was able to draw parallels between why many climbers
climb—with this information, I concluded many similarities that rock climbers
share. This was done by asking informants ‗why do you climb?‟ from this
interview question, many reoccurring themes arose.
― I climb inside for the exercise and outside for the
rush. I grew up as a kid climbing trees and hills and
rocks, so when I could afford climbing gear, I bought
some! It brings me back to the fun of being a kid... It
allows you to focus on just climbing and clear your
head of all the clutter of the day and life. I guess in
short I do it for my health; mental, emotional and
physical ... and for the chicks!‖
James, HSU climber

8. ―I climb because it's meditative for me. When I'm on
the wall, I notice I feel 100% present and can
concentrate on my body and my breath. Once you're
up there, every decision you make is crucial, it's the
difference between success and failure. That rush I get
is why I keep climbing and pushing myself towards
harder problems and greater heights.‖
Rebecca, HSU climber
―Above all else, the most fascinating thing about
climbing is learning how complex nature is...
Climbing shows that the human body is the most
complex and perfected vehicle; each tissue working
together, stretching from muscle group to muscle
group in unison in order to close a hand or lift a leg...
If we were stripped of all things unnecessary to our
survival... we would have left the one thing nature has
always provided us: ... the human body. In the
application of this tool to stone is the synergy of man
and Earth. Applying our vehicle of self to the natural
breaks and crystals while climbing really goes to show
full-value of what we are as humans...‖
Mitch, Sunnyvale climber
From these interview answers, the most common reoccurring themes are the
presence of nature, and the awareness of your own body—or vehicle as Mitch
had stated. These drives that encourage the sport of rock climbing, allow many
climbers to relate to one another. Whenever there is a common passion—
whether it be for peace, science, religion, etc.—immediate strong bonds are

9. formed. There is in ingrained connection for all members of each passion‘s
community, as if shared passion connects them through DNA.
I was introduced to and examined the idea of acceptance into the rock climbing
community.
The climbing community is hard to be
accepted into. Acceptance is earned through
accomplishment and dedication. If you are a
local and are around a bunch you‘ll be invited
in. If you have the skills to impress the locals
you‘ll be invited in.
Aaron, Sponsored
Rock climber
This quote by Aaron was the only on of its kind. Most climbers sided with
acceptance coming natural to all climbers; however Aaron‘s quote breaks from
that norm. He addressed the action of „being accepted in‟, which is restricted to
either being local, or having to prove yourself. Looking at my observations and
drawing analysis, it is now obvious that this statement holds true. My questions
remain; “why does no one address this acceptance ritual?” as well as ―why is
this the ritual?” This, I believe, is because individuals require rapport in order
to be admired and idolized—which is necessary in order to be a well-known
rock climber amongst the community.

10. I experienced the role of acceptance during my research trip to Bishop
California. While in Bishop, which is a world know bouldering area, I met,
climbed with, and exchanged contact information with climbers from around the
world. Exchanging information with climbers around the world is beneficial, in
the case that you someday travel and climb at their local crag7—they can
provide you with a place to stay, local travel hints, and a personal tour guide.
Individuals, like myself, usually enjoy climbing with those that are slightly
higher in skill. This is because it leaves room for your own improvement,
competition, and eagerness to work a problem with another climber.
Community is embodied within several different settings surrounding the sport
of rock climbing. There are an uncountable amount of community traits
appearing in gym climbing, outdoor trips and competitions—all of which
involve similarities and differences within the formation and attributes of the
climbing community.
The majority of my observations—both passive and participatory—took place
in the rock gym. It is here that climbers gather, train, and push each other
towards their goals. There is a truly high energy that is given off between
climbers; this energy, while surrounding the gym, raises the overall pride, while
lowering the tension between climbers. This is because when one has support
7Crag- the literal rock climbing faces of an area of which is climbed for
sport.

11. from those around them, they tend to feed off the energy. This energy overall
improves the attitude of the climber, therefore improving the mental state and
skill of that climber.
It was explained by Psychologist B.F. Skinner that reinforcements, both positive
and negative, enhance good behavior. While negative reinforcement, which
includes taking a positive thing away, does not regularly present itself within the
climbing community, there is an abundance of positive reinforcement. Positive
reinforcement involves the ‗give‘ of something beneficial to a receiver. This
type of reinforcement is extremely common within the sport of rock climbing—
not only pertaining to the accomplishment of completing a climb after working
hard for it, but it is apparent that the reaffirming praise by other climbers
significantly uplifts the ego of the climber.
I discovered this by comparing perceived energy levels to the number of
climbers in a particular area. When there are more climbers clustered in a
specific area, especially an area specialized for climbing, there is an ample
amount of positive energy, compliments, and reinforcements on one‘s strength,
improvement, and style of climbing. Where as, when climbing alone, you may
stay more focused in your mind, but you do not have that outside drive and
support to push you further.

12. When looking at competitions—there is an interesting dynamic between
community and individualism. A rock climbing competition forces climbers to
challenge themselves, both mentally and physically. A climbing competition is
scored by adding up each climber‘s top three to five scores. Each problem that a
climber completes, is worth a certain amount of points, and with each attempt
that is unsuccessful, the point value decreases.
This is an interesting aspect—when climbing vibes, intentions, and motives
shift. It seems that when there is a prize or a title that is at stake, dog-eat-dog
characteristics arise. Given, climbers are not sabotaging each other, but there is
a sense of competitiveness and a lack of the ‗scratch my back and I‘ll scratch
yours‘ mentality that is usually present among climbers. Since your own best
interest is in mind, it seems to be less likely to help and give beta to other
climbers. Climbers still do, of coarse, root on and encourage the success of
others--- but with the intention/hopes of possibly beating their score.
[Climbing in a gym for fun] is a little bit more like
a birthday party than a funeral (referring to
competing)... You know there‘s a birthday party
and then there is a wake after a funeral. And... at a
competition, there is this intense feeling. You
genuinely want everyone to do well, but at the
same time the person that you are most concerned
about is yourself. But when you are in a gym,
climbing with people for fun, you genuinely want
them to get that hold, you really want them to
finish that problem.

13. Lydia, HSU climber
My analysis provided me with the notion that while you normally share beta
with climbers during gym sessions, you do not want to give your beta8 away
during a competition. This is because in a competitive setting, climbers want to
win rather than give someone else their answers/ideas.
I believe the quote quite simply feeds the example of the two countering sides
of a family that I mentioned previously. A rock climbing community shares
similarities with a family such as: friendly rivalries between members,
unconditional love for the sport (idea of family) and the members of the
community (members within your own family). This is described in several of
the interviews that I conducted. One climber described the climbing community
as ―...my life. I feel that without it I would be lost or at least feel that something
is missing from my life.‖ This, I conclude, shows the magnitude and passion
that the climbing community is.
My analysis ended up leading me to a few ‗revelation questions‘. After
collecting data and analyzing said data, I discovered a missing link in my
research—what individuals add and take away from the community itself. I
presented this question to a large sample of my informant, and got back a wide
variety of answers. From these answers, I cultivated a three-part passage way
through the rock climbing community. This passage way can be compared to
8 Beta- advice on how a climb could be done. There are several different
forms of beta for each climb.

14. Anthropologist Van Gannep‘s process of rites of passages-- of which involves a
separation period, a liminal 9period, and a reintegration period.
My data falls into these categories as such:
Separation--- What do climbers bring to the rock climbing community?
Liminal Period--- What is important about the rock climbing community?
Reintegration--- What do climbers take away from the rock climbing
community?
Below are three cultivated answers that I took from various informants in order
to prove the importance of the community within rock climbing.
What I contribute to the climbing community?
―I think I‘m encouraging the successes and improvements
of others that I climb with. I always try to support their tries,
whether completed or not.‖
What is significant about the climbing community?
―I think it‘s one of the best communities that I‘ve taken part in. I
think the people in the community are very accepting; everyone is
willing to take in new people. For me the climbing community has
become my life... There is a powerful sense of community with all
the members being so open and welcome to new climbers. And
lastly the people that you will meet inside of the community are
some of the best in the world. They will always be your friends.
You are almost instantly close with them through each member
9 Liminal- marginal period, in-between period.

15. radiating passion and love for climbing. The sense of friendly
competition, and I use that word lightly here, is extremely
motivating. Nobody is ever wanting another climber to fail.‖
What I take away from the climbing community?
―Through the climbing community I am able to get the motivation I
need to stay inspired, strong friendships that transcend the sport, the
feeling of adventure, and the feeling of a family in every aspect---
crazy yet beautiful. Everyday is exciting and new, with amazing
new experiences. ―
I believe that these quotes not only show the importance of the rock climbing
community, but also show the importance of each member within the
community.
Conclusion
In conclusion, my findings and analysis provided me with a strong basis on
what to base the climbing community on. After my research, it is evident that
the climbing community is multi-layered—as one would assume any
community is. There are multiple aspects brought to light within all different
forms of climbing. My research provided me with analysis on: gym climbing,
which requires a heap of positive reinforcement by the community to build skill
and improvement, competitions, which force climbers to challenge themselves
and others for a prize and title, and outdoor trips, which not only brings
community members together—but also requires members to trust their life in
each others hands.

16. Through analysis of lineage, bonds, and kinship (in the most basic sense), I‘ve
concluded the congenial nature of the climbing community. This incestuous
nature, which I state in a positive form, has allowed me to understand how fully
encircling the climbing community is. There are links—lines of lineage, if you
will-- between all my informants and their roommates, co-workers, and
climbing partners. The likeliness of climbers living, dating, working, and
forming friendships with other climbers is very strong. This shows the
encompassing venue that is the climbing community—as more members join,
the larger and more inclusive the community becomes.
In reference to the aforementioned cultivated quotes, I have concluded that there
is evident individualism within the climbing community. This individualism not
only separates the motivations and contributions that each member brings and
takes from the community, but it also adds importance to each member within
the climbing community-- for it is a unique element that each member adds to
the community.

17. References
1) Fryberger, Chuck. “The Scene.” Chuck Fryberger Films.
This film showcases rock climbers from around the world climbing their
long-projected climbs and interacting around and within the community of rock
climbers. There are several instances within this film that pinpoint aspects of
community and interactions between several different professional and well
known climbers.
2) Fryberger, Chuck. “CORE.” Chuck Fryberger Films.
This documentary type film follows a few rock climbers on their journeys
to work on problems around the world. It specifically follows a few interesting
climbers who follow their own set of rules and climb for very personal and similar
reasons. Passages from this film apply directly to influences, community, and
linkage within the climbing community.
3) The New York Times. “No Need for a Mountain.” August 2011.
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/08/03/sports/the-sport-of-bouldering-
climbs-in-popularity.html?pagewanted=2&_r=1&ref=rockclimbing
This article in the New York Times webpage, addresses the basic facts and
factors that go into the rock climbing style known as bouldering. Many
professional climbers, such as Beth Rodden, are discussed and quoted about the
appeal of bouldering and their interest in the growing sport
4) Carnahan, Andrew. “Rocks Without Ropes.” Parks & Recreations, 4.1 (2006): 42-
46 Web.

18. This article speaks about the popularity of the sport of bouldering. It
defines, and digs deeper into the growing participation and participants who are
living within this sport.
5) Prichard, Nancy Lee. “Against a Rock.” Women’s Sports and Fitness. 17.5 (1995)
p. 50.
This article narrates an experience with rock climbing. It addresses a few
of the risks and benefits that rock climbing/mountaineering can provide one with.
6) Terzian, Mackenzie. “Pushing the Bird from the Nest: a Look at Rites of
Passages” 2011. History of Anthropology undergraduate paper.
This undergraduate research paper examined the process of rites of
passages from both Victor Turner and Van Gannep’s influence three-step process.