1. CULTURE ON
KVARNER
FESTIVALS and manifestations
By Zadar HTUŠ eTwinners
2. KVARNER
Kvarner is culturally privileged space, primarily due to
the fact that for centuries a meeting place of
different cultures: Roman, Hellenic, Slavic, Germanic,
Hungary ... They are there to each other representing
its representative features, is also an adjunct,
preplitale, mutually enriching, often in multiple
dialogue and creating new value. Ulster is also a
historical perspective particularly intriguing area.
His turbulent history brought many changes, not
ceasing to settle their wondrous traces.
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3. Ancient monuments
These tracks on the Kvarner region stretching
all the prehistoric, ancient and medieval
monuments, to those that occur in the days of
which we are active participants. It is a
heritage which pleasantly surprised with their
different faces and unexpected peaks.
She wisely encouraged to send in a review of
responses to an adventure that we have for
some time thought to be final. She charmingly
seduces her utkanih spectrum of emotions,
and helps to recognize these emotions as the
Kvarner specificity, as universal values.
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4. Places in boxes
The cultural heritage of Kvarner as not to know the
limitations of any kind. Since then placed in boxes,
books like these? In an attempt for you to choose
from the best of that heritage, we knew that you set
a task which is perhaps impossible to answer.
As there were more topics that have found a place on
this site, it was more and those who we think unfairly
left for another occasion. Sweet Dilemma called
choice has found its intention to resolve the book you
hold in your hand serves only as a first step in getting
acquainted with the heritage of Kvarner. So, to be an
encouragement to go further. How about the cultural
values that were recorded in the booklet, as well as in
connection with values that are yet waiting to be
presented in a similar manner.
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5. Gorski kotar area
Mirjana Kos-Nalis ETHNOGRAPHIC TIMELINE
Life in a mrgar and in a ganak
A unique and surprising combination of the Mediterranean and
Alpine influences on Kvarner, as nowhere else in Croatia, has
resulted in a vivid ethnological and anthropological diversity. The
islands, the shores and the highlands of Kvarner mutually
permeate, creating an utterly distinctive cultural symbiosis. This
area has always been an ‘arena of the strong and a refuge of the
weak’, at times when authorities were changing, state borders
being demarcated or populations migrating. Life used to follow
its own routine here, paying more or less attention to these
changes, protecting its autonomy, as is so often the case in the
Mediterranean milieu. This is the prerequisite for survival and
the essence of the mentality. The Gorski kotar region, Kvarner’s
mountainous continental hinterland, so different from the coast,
closes the circle and makes this area utterly unique.
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6. Carnival tradition
The carnival tradition has taken deep roots here on Kvarner. This
winter merrymaking with the practical purpose of catharsis or
cleansing is celebrated at the end of the old and the beginning of
the new vegetation period. It should beckon fertility, comfort
the superstition and call for a new and better world order. It is a
celebration of life itself and a pledge for a better future. The
carnival begins after the Epiphany or on the feast day of St.
Anthony on 17th January, and lasts until the beginning of the 40-
day period of Lent before Easter. The origin of the carnival
tradition goes back to pagan and antique customs that were
modified in the spirit of Christianity and which have remained
preserved up to the present day as a very vivid tradition on
Kvarner, especially in the Kastav area. Some archaic forms that
used to be important elements of ancient rituals are still present
today.
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7. Present carnivals
The whole carnival takes place in a very special part of the year
when old nature dies and new nature is born, which is very
important in terms of rituals and superstition. Our present
carnival has much to do with antique rituals like the Saturnalia,
the Lupercalia, the Matronalia, etc. The carnival is a period for
letting go of accumulated fears; it is the beginning of a new,
benevolent and fruitful life cycle, free of evil spirits.
Ethnological collections have much to teach us about everyday
life on Kvarner in the past. On the coast and on the islands, such
collections are open to visitors in Kastav, Mošćenice, Grobnik,
Dobrinj, Port, Baška, Lopar, Osor, Beli, Bakar, Novi Vinodolski,
and on the small island of Košljun. Gorski kotar includes
collections in Prezid, Lič and Čabar. The area of Brod Moravice
hosts the ethnic village of Šimatovo.
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8. ZVONČARI
Zvončari, the bell-ringers, are followers of the
ancient magical tradition of Lupercalia, pastoral
rituals in which men would dress up in animal skins
to protect their herds. They are typical of the
areas of Rukavac, Halubje, Mune, Zvoneće, Brgud,
etc. They are mutually distinguished by the
character of their masks that can be either
zoomorphic (animal masks) or vegetable (caps with
flowers, the so-called krabujosnice). Other details
may also vary: their striped sailors’ T-shirts or
checked shirts, red or vividly coloured scarves,
wooden sticks with grotesque heads which they
swing in ritualistic motion, the size of the bell and
the way it is rung.
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9. Each group has its own rules and moves in a particular
ritualistic way, accompanied by the traditional figures
of the bear, devil, flag carrier, musician, etc. Zvončari
are men of all generations – particular importance is
given to passing the tradition on to each new
generation. During their procession, which is
accompanied by the deafening sound of bells, the
zvončari sometimes form a specific circular shape, the
so-called zvončarsko kolo. Zvončari from Žejane carry
a coat made of ribbons in different colours and
several smaller bells that jingle rather than produce
heavy noise. They also move completely differently
and hop in small steps. Other traditional groups come
from the areas of Kastav and Grobnik (dondolaši).
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10. Social games in Kvarner
Društvene igre are part of the tradition in the
coastal areas. They are the popular leisure activity
and entertainment for men and children on Sundays
and feast days (recently also for women, but this is
more an exception than a rule). Popular games include
boccie, cards (briškula and trešete) and mőra.
Children used to play Nine Men’s Morris, marbles and
games connected with some specific feast, for
example at Easter. The court for playing boccie is an
essential part of every settlement; it is usually
located in the centre and serves as a daily meeting
place. Boccie is a kind of lawn bowling in which two
groups of players try to roll wooden or metal balls at 10
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jack.
11. The games
Sometimes they have to knock out a competitor’s ball
with a direct hit, which is a rather impressive
achievement. The card games briškula and trešeta
are played in pairs with Italian cards, the popular
Triestine Cards. Mőra is played by two players: each
player shows a number by the fingers of one hand and
shouts out a number which should be the sum of all
displayed fingers. This is accompanied by rhythmical
hitting of the wooden table. Children used to play
Nine Men’s Morris, so even today we still find boards
for this game cut into stone, for example in
Mošćenice.
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12. THE FOLK COSTUMES IN
KVARNER
The Folk costumes that people wear on Kvarner are very
heterogeneous and were created under various cultural
influences. Every region or island has its own distinctive
features: the costumes differ from place to place in their detail,
the way they are worn, adornments, etc. This diversity that
cannot be explained by a simple definition is the most valuable
heritage of Kvarner’s folk costumes. Let us mention some of the
curiosities. The costume of the women from Krk consists of a
white blouse with wide, folded sleeves and a heavy, mostly black
or red, folded skirt. The kotiga is a very special winter skirt
made of sheep’s fleece that provides excellent protection from
the cold bura wind.
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13. About the costumes
The headgear is called a rub or dubljenac. This is a
wide woven ribbon, mainly of a yellow colour, that is
wound around the head in different ways, like a
turban. Men wear a kaban – a heavy coat made of linen
to protect from the cold.
Particularly vivid are the costumes from some of the
other islands, like the islands of Susak and Cres.
The costume from Orlec is finely embellished with
corals and a necklace made of a row of medals and
coins with a small box – a reliquary.
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14. The Crossbowmen from Rab
They are the main protagonists of a knights’
tournament that was first established in 1364 to
commemorate the defence of the town of Rab by
crossbows, a weapon that goes back to ancient times.
These medieval games were revived in 1995 and now
take place in Rab every year. Crossbows are also used
by the balestrieri from San Marino. The tournament
lasts for several days and begins with the arrival of
the duke and his entourage into the town’s loggia
where crossbowmen and flag carriers are gathered.
They then receive a blessing in the cathedral, to the
sound of drums, fanfares and ringing church bells.
This is followed by the opening ceremony on the
square in front of the church and the raising of the 14
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15. RAB FJESTA-fjera
On the sign of the honoured judge, twelve knights
start the tournament. The winner is declared by the
duke of Rab and awarded the Felix prize. The event
continues with music, a display of old trades and
historical costumes. The tournament takes place twice
a year, at the end of May and the end of July. The
Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
on the 15th of August is also celebrated in a medieval
spirit.
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17. CHESTNUT FESTIVAL
Marunada (Chestnut Days) is a gastronomic festival
that takes place in Lovran, a town that has always
been famous for its sweet fruits: figs, grapes, olives,
cherries, wild plants and of course sweet chestnuts,
locally called the maruni – hence the name of the
festival. Their quality was praised by J.W. Valvasor in
the 17th century and travel writers and explorers like
Dragutin Hirc at the end of the 19th century. The
Marunada takes place in the second half of October in
Lovran, Dobreč and Liganj. This much-appreciated
type of chestnut grows only here on Liburnia, in the
area between Ika and Mošćenička Draga.
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