1. Total Skin Care Blog .com
Your Honest
Guide to
Natural
Skincare
2. “NATURAL”
CONFUSION
Is there any subject The honest truth of the matter is that we now live
in an increasingly polluted world. And this pollution
in the beauty industry is affecting our health and the condition of our
today more confusing skin. Just look at the rates of adult acne and skin
than natural skincare? sensitivities these days. Scientists have proven
that over 60% of the products you apply to your
Walk down an aisle in your face and body get absorbed into the bloodstream
local drugstore and it seems including moisturizers, sunscreens and anti-aging
every second product boasts products. Because of this, many consumers are
a “ natural” label or some type looking for natural alternatives to synthetic formulas.
of “ natural” claim. Why is this? They feel better applying natural ingredients to their
In a nutshell, because Canada bodies. You’ll see from the statistics that follow that
has no legal defi nition for what thousands of consumers are making this change
constitutes a “ natural” ingredient leading to a growing segment in the Canadian beauty
or claim, beauty companies are industry. It’s expected to grow at 15 to 30 percent
free to use the term as they like. per year. That’s far faster than traditional skincare and
And “ natural” is a great marketing beauty segments.
word today that increases sales.
Legally, anyone can paste a This guide to natural skincare is meant to offer
“ natural” sticker on a product honest, concise information that you can use in your
regardless of what is inside. everyday lives. From defi ning “natural” to exploring
Understandably, this is causing product effi cacy, we hope it will help you make
great confusion at the beauty better-informed choices and clear up some of the
counter. Consumers and beauty “ natural” confusion.
advisors alike have no idea where
to fi nd truly natural skincare Dave
products. Dave Lackie . Editor . Cosmetics magazine
3. 1. Parabens. These are synthetic preservatives that
are potential endocrine disrupters that can affect our
hormone levels.
POTENTIAL 2. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Think of these as harsh
cleansing agents that can potentially damage the lipid
RISKS layer of your skin and cause irritation. By stripping the
skin’s natural oil levels which act as a fi rst-line barrier,
viruses can more easily enter into the body.
3. Petrolatum/Mineral Oil/Paraffi n. These are
non-renewable byproducts of crude oil that contain
potentially dangerous impurities.
The Natural Products 4. Chemical Sunscreens (Oxybenzone). These
Association in the synthetic sunscreens get absorbed into the skin and
can potentially disrupt hormone balances. They are
United States, a also suspected to cause some free-radical production.
72-year-old, not-for-
profi t organization 5. Glycols. Think of these petroleum-derived
committed to the synthetic
chemicals as magnets. They are thought to be able to
natural products draw other chemicals into the bloodstream.
industry has identifi ed
ten ingredients 6. Phthalates. Some scientists believe these
that they believe synthetic fragrance compounds to be potential toxins.
could have long- 7. Ethoxylated ingredients like Sodium
term human health Myreth Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate,
risks. These items PEGs or PPGs. Ingredients that are made in part with
petrochemical ethylene oxide can result in 1,4 Dioxane,
include synthetic
a trace contaminant that is classifi ed as a possible
silicone or petroleum carcinogen. Ethoxylated ingredients are the accidental
compounds. It’s byproducts of the ethoxylation process so they are
important to note never listed on an ingredient label.
that Health Canada 8. Ethanolamines like MEA/DEA/TEA. These
monitors all skincare are foam and viscosity-boosting ingredients that can
ingredients including interact with other ingredients to form nitrosamines, a
these ten and known carcinogen.
prohibits any that 9. Synthetic Polymers (PVP/Acrylates).
have proven health These synthetic stabilizers may contain residual PAHs
risks. Still, the NPA (plycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons), thought to be the
believes that it is best most widespread organic pollutant.
to avoid products that 10. Formaldehyde Donors (DMDM Hydrantoin/
contain the following: Diazolidinyl Urea/Methylisothiazolinone).
These are preservatives that degrade over time
potentially releasing formaldehyde, a known carcinogen.
4. WHAT IS
NATURAL?
According to led the initiative to defi ne the word natural.
Health Canada, the The defi nition is two-fold: ingredients that
governmental department come from purposeful, renewable and plentiful
that monitors all skincare sources found in nature such as fl ora, fauna and
minerals. And, the products must be made with
and beauty products in minimal processing that does not use synthetic
Canada, there is no legal or harsh chemicals or otherwise dilute the purity
defi nition for “natural” of the ingredients.
skincare products in
When Is Non-Natural Acceptable?
Canada. Non-natural ingredients are only acceptable
when there is no viable natural alternative
As long as a company does not ingredient available and only when there are
knowingly deceive the public absolutely no suspected potential human health
with it’s labellng, there is no risks.
legal guideline that the company
must follow to use the term. Natural Versus Organic
Beauty companies must include Organic ingredients are a big trend these days.
a detailed list of ingredients The term “ organic” really does apply to growing
on each product package plants and fl owers without any pesticides – a
listing ingredients from largest very benefi cial process, especially for food. In
percentage to least. And it must personal care products, it is important to note
provide testing results to prove that a product that is 70 percent organic can
that it is safe for Canadians. If still contain 30 percent artifi cial ingredients
Health Canada spots any known that are potentially harmful. Many scientists
dangerous ingredients, it will believe it is more benefi cial to use 100 percent
refuse to allow the products to be natural ingredients that pose no potential health
sold in this country. risk to consumers and do not contain harmful
byproducts than a product that contains some
A New Defi nition for organic ingredients. It’s best to read both
“ Natural” organic and natural labels very carefully and
Total Skin Care Blog, working with ask questions about how these products are
Natural Products Association, processed.
5. THE
NATURAL
SKINCARE
MARKET
Just how big is the
natural personal care Packaged Facts, a market researcher publisher in the
United States agrees with this analysis. According
market today? to its most recent study, sales of natural and organic
personal care products in the United States grew
That’s a tough question to from $2 billion in 2001 to $6.1 billion in 2006.
answer. Since the category The fi rm predicts that sales will top $10.2 billion by
is so new, there is little data 2012. The company’s retail analysts believe there
available. Market Research fi rm are two factors driving these sales: the fi rst is public
Kline Group estimates the total concern over environmental crises, fair trade practices
sales of natural products to and the fear of possible cancer-causing chemicals.
be approximately 3 percent The second is an aging baby boomer population that
of the market. Based on that is looking to prolong health.
number, the current Canadian
market for natural products “Overall retail sales of natural cosmetics and toiletries
would be about $120 million. in Canada account for a smaller share of overall
That total is expected to double market sales, although demand is growing, especially
in the next fi ve years among younger consumers,” says Euromonitor
moving from niche category to International’s Lauren Beth. “Demand is likely to grow
mainstream. While still a small further as Canadians become more aware of the
category now, natural beauty impact of the chemical compounds used in various
companies are posting annual consumer products on their health and environment.
gains of anywhere from 14 to New regulations that require manufacturers to list all
30 percent, far ahead of the the ingredients in the products on product labels will
industry average. And retailers likely further boost consumer confi dence and provide
are making more space for more information regarding the content of products
natural products in store. with natural claims.”
6. Setting the Natural Standard
1 Any natural personal
care product must
contain at least
2 There can be no
ingredients with any
potential suspected
3 You can not use any
processes that signifi cantly
or adversely alter the
95% truly natural human health risks within purity/effect of the natural
ingredients. an allowable 5%. ingredients.
“ Natural Products Association
Certifi ed” seal
This seal is the new certification seal
controlled by the Natural Product
Association in the United States.
Companies that comply with the
above guidelines will have permission
to use this seal on packaging. Expect
to see the first seals appear on
products this fall from Weleda, Trilogy
Fragrances, Farmaesthetics, Badger,
Aubrey Organics and Burt’s Bees
with more to follow. It is designed to
help consumers quickly identify honestly
natural products.
For more information, visit www.TheNaturalSeal.org.
7. DO NATURAL SKINCARE
PRODUCTS ACTUALLY
WORK?
Do natural skincare products really work? ingredient so we have to
make our product slightly
Besides the obvious question about potentially synthetic. The second one
harmful ingredients, the biggest question is suncare. Because titanium
regarding natural skincare products is do they and zinc are the only natural
really work? As recent as fi ve years ago, many natural suncare ingredients, when
skincare creams had the consistency of glue and smelled you use them you get
even worse. And the effi cacy in many cases didn’t match some whiteness to the
traditional beauty brands. But scientists such as Celeste product which affects the
Lutario, who specialize in natural formulas at Burt’s Bees are aesthetics. So those are
making great strides in both performance and texture. She really the only two products
was most recently the research and development manager we haven’t hit parity for
for Chanel skincare and she’s brought that expertise to the benefi t and aesthetics to
natural skincare category with great results. mass market synthetic
“The fi rst thing my girlfriends ask is do natural skincare brands. We get the same
products work?” laughs Celeste. “And that’s the big quality.”
misconception out there right now: If it’s natural, it doesn’t
work as well or isn’t as aesthetically pleasing. I can tell you
we’ve been pretty successful at getting parity with mass
How natural
brands on the market recently. In fact, we just did a test ingredients interact
yesterday where we looked at all our categories against with the skin
natural, pseudo-natural and mass market brands. And the
majority of our products hit parity with popular mass market “ We haven’t tested
brands. There were only two exceptions: One is in haircare this completely yet,
but we know that the
because there are some ingredients that we call quaternary
skin accepts natural
compounds or ‘quats’ (conditioning agents of haircare)
ingredients better
and those aren’t made completely naturally yet. If a quat is
than synthetic ones,”
not used in a hair product, the hair has the consistency of explains Celeste.
straw or a bird’s nest. There is no natural alternative for that
“Researchers have proven that approximately 60% of skincare
products get absorbed into the body.”
8. “ Think of it this way: the way a plant survives is by carefully
balancing all the minerals, vitamins and antioxidants that it contains.
So when you use a plant in a natural skincare product, those
ingredients stay balanced. Your own skin recognizes this balance
and will accept it much more readily than a synthetic version. The
way the synthetic cosmetic industry does it is they mimic one of
those pieces found in the plant. They’ll look and say ‘Oh, those
AHAs get rid of wrinkles. Let’s fi nd out that chemical makeup,
mimic it, concentrate it and use it in a product.’ The issue with
this method is the body wants to stay balanced. As soon as you
put that concentrated material on your skin, the body feels it is
out of balance so it almost feels it is hurt. It will immediately start
producing other chemicals that it normally won’t to compensate for
that concentration. That’s why when AHAs fi rst came out, you saw
a lot of redness. When you apply synthetic AHAs on the skin, it’s
almost like a little burn. The body feels it’s being burned and hurt
so it starts sending all these healing chemicals to that area. So then
it heals the skin. Then most people repeat this process every day.
And the skin never feels it is in balance. Over time, you may actually
be hurting your skin.”
Evaluating Potential Long-Term Health Risks
Properly identifying ingredients with potential long-term
health risks is an ongoing process. Researchers around
the world in laboratories and universities are constantly testing
ingredients and how they react in the body. The top natural skincare
brands are constantly monitoring medical journals and toxicology
reports that publish the results to make sure they are using the safest
possible natural ingredients. (Health Canada also monitors these
journals and studies.) Europe is far more stringent than other regions
when it comes to ingredients with potential long-term health risks,
so any change in European regulation is carefully analyzed. You’ll
notice that the best brand will adjust their formulas as soon as any
ingredient in a product shows any kind of possible harm.
9. HIGH-TECH
VERSUS
NATURAL
SKINCARE
High-tech skincare brands are pushing Natural skincare
the limits of anti-aging technology companies look
today by formulating products that at skincare from
penetrate deeper into the skin and a very different
actually work to manipulate skin cells perspective.
and even DNA. They want to make the skin
Nanotechnology is a prime example. Scientists healthier so it looks better.
are now experimenting with how to change strands These natural chemists
of DNA to slow the aging process and even reverse focus on the lower layers of
it. And while this science offers great potential results, the skin where the cells are
it also ignores the intelligence of the body’s own being produced and ask
systems. Can this manipulation cause potential long- themselves how can they
term damage? “ My theory is that this can cause harm make everything healthy?
because of the way it is manipulating the body,” says They want to do everything
Ms. Lutrario. “ When you start to get into very detailed they can to make the
technology where you get into the blood stream cells fully moisturized and
and you’re manipulating on how the body reacts to ensure they have the proper
something, the potential for something to go wrong chemical makeup. So, 28
is much higher. The cosmetics industry over the next days later when those cells
ten years is going to have very significant scientific make it to the skin’s surface,
breakthroughs. They want to manipulate the body so they create this beautiful
that it doesn’t age. When you start dealing with that, radiance. “If you keep
in my opinion, you always have dormant cells that have everything moisturized and
the potential to go haywire. And when you start messing nourished, the wrinkles will
with these things, the potential is greater. I’m not saying go away.” Wrinkles come
it is going to happen. But the potential is there.” from unhealthy cells.
10. WHAT GOES
ON, GOES IN
Skin cells take about The most damaging factors for skin are
six weeks to progress sun damage and free radicals that can
from the lower layers of destroy the cells. So you’ll notice that
the skin to the surface. natural skincare products will contain
antioxidants, essential oils with the
And skincare chemists
proper balance of vitamins, minerals and
want to keep those cells
amino acids. Chemists will choose the
as nourished, hydrated best essential oils for a specifi c purpose.
and healthy as possible Remember, approximately 60% of what is
throughout their life. applied to the skin gets absorbed into the
This results in beautifully lower layers of the skin.
radiant skin.
11. THE
GREATER
GOOD
Is it time to take a closer are becoming more demanding of the
companies they do business with and
look at the companies won’t permit activities that pollute or
behind your favourite lip otherwise damage the environment.” He
gloss or foundation? says the younger generation in particular
is concerned that they are left to clean up
In this new era of environmentalism the mess left by earlier generations. They
and social responsibility, how a want a healthy environment to leave their
beauty company produces a product children.
is becoming as important as what
it produces. Is a beautiful lipstick So what can you do? Begin by asking
worth the price if its manufacturing questions. Visit websites and read annual
causes your water to be polluted reports. Many cosmetic companies have
or garbage dumps to be filled 1-800 consumer hotlines you can call with
unnecessarily? questions. If you want to see changes to
your favourite brands, write the president
There’s a new generation of skincare and ask him or her to make changes. And
company that believes it’s equally important most of all, be discerning about what
to respect nature, our communities and companies you do decide to support. Your
human rights as it is to manufacture body dollars have great infl uence.
lotions and lip balms. This philosophy
is called “ The Greater Good” and it is
based on two simple and profound beliefs:
Natural products work in harmony with
our bodies to promote balance and well-
being; and we should respect, preserve
and improve the precious resource of our
environment. These companies believe that
if you take care of the environment and our
communities and produce products that
respect nature, the profi ts will follow. It’s a
forward-thinking business model.
“ Consumers are becoming more savvy
and educated thanks to the web,” says
Alan Middleton, a professor of marketing
at the Schulich School of Business. “ They
12. SAVING
THE BEES
What would happen population: Approximately 70 percent of fruits
if the world’s bee and vegetables are pollinated by bees.
population suddenly There are more than 20,000 different species
disappeared? of bees and an estimated thousand more that
How would farmers pollinate have yet to be identified by scientists. A recent
fruits and vegetables without bee symposium in Toronto hosted by many
them? It’s a question that of the world’s top bee experts established
scientists around the world this problem is more than a North American
are asking with the mysterious phenomenon. Bee colonies are disappearing
disappearance of a significant across Europe and Asia as well. And it is not
percentage of the world’s bee just domesticated bees, but wild bees that
population recently. are dying. These researchers claim pesticides,
loss of habitat, disease and pollution are prime
It’s called Colony Collapse contributors to this sudden decline. The bees’
Disorder (CCD) and it’s become fragile systems can’t handle the sheer volume
a great threat to the world’s food of chemicals and pollution in the air.
13. Natural Skin Care
Stress Cleanliness
Stress is a trigger for most skin Good daily hygiene is critical. If you
conditions. Address the cause of your sweat a lot or wear a lot of makeup ensure
stress. that you clean your skin before bed.
Breathing, meditation, exercise, Clean with gentle, natural soap in tepid
relaxation techniques and rest all assist in water and dry thoroughly afterwards.
reducing stress.
Prevent skin irritations by using non-
Clothes abrasive products, including sharp blades
for shaving.
Wear clothes that ensure you don’t get
too hot or too cold. Sunlight
Cotton or natural fibers allow your skin 15 - 30 minutes of sunlight a day
to breathe. benefits most skin conditions.
Choose clothes that are loose without Avoid staying in direct sunlight in late
restrictions or rough-textured, scratchy morning and early afternoon.
surfaces.
Use full spectrum lights in your home
and place of work.
Nutrition
Water is needed to help the body flush
out toxins. Drink at least 8 glasses a day.
Be conscious of your reaction to food
and work with your Naturopathic Doctor
to determine if allergies are part of the
problem.
Whole grains, fruits and vegetables
provide the skin with needed nutrients.
Avoid caffeine, alcohol and nicotine
as they can constrict blood vessels that
nourish skin. This increases the appearance
of deep wrinkles, aging and decreases the
ability for skin to heal.
14. Use cosmetics sparingly and allow your materials and prevents premature aging of
skin time to breathe naturally. the skin. Avoid brushing open, inflamed or
oozing areas of skin.
Go at least 5 days without cosmetics and
notice the difference it makes to your skin. HOT AND COLD CONTRAST creates a
pump-like action that aids in healing by
Avoid skin products with alcohol or acid
stimulating the circulation of white blood
because they dry the skin.
cells to an area. This technique is great for
Many cosmetics have creams, fillers and treating acute infections, increasing muscle
substances that block the pores and sweat tone and strength, and healing varicose
glands decreasing natural detoxification. veins. Start with an application of hot water
Use natural products. Chemical and end with cold. Apply the hot twice as
deodorants, antiperspirants and cleaning long as the cold and repeat 3 - 5 times.
products often destroy the natural CASTOR OIL PACKS applied topically to
protective bacteria on the skin. unbroken skin increases local circulation,
Match your skin care products to promotes removal of toxins and stimulates
your skin type and use natural oils, herbal healing of underlying tissues and organs. It
creams or ointments. is absorbed into the lymph circulation and
can improve digestion, relieve constipation,
Topical or prescription creams often
stimulate detoxification of organs, enhance
suppress the signs of skin concerns and
immune function, reduce swelling and
prevent the body from detoxifying through
decrease menstrual irregularities.
the skin.
SPECIFIC SKIN CARE TECHNIQUES
GENTLE MASSAGE causes local
stimulation of the nervous system, reduces
muscle tension, improves lymphatic and
blood circulation, aids in healing, controls
pain and reduces swelling. Avoid scratching
or rubbing as this can disrupt the natural
healing process of the skin.
DRY SKIN BRUSHING loosens up dead
layers of skin, opens pores and helps to
retain the natural oils of the skin. The
friction action tones the skin, improves
circulation, helps elimination of waste