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Total Skin Care Blog .com

  Your Honest
     Guide to
   Natural
  Skincare
“NATURAL”
   CONFUSION



Is there any subject                  The honest truth of the matter is that we now live
                                      in an increasingly polluted world. And this pollution
in the beauty industry                is affecting our health and the condition of our
today more confusing                  skin. Just look at the rates of adult acne and skin
than natural skincare?                sensitivities these days. Scientists have proven
                                      that over 60% of the products you apply to your
Walk down an aisle in your            face and body get absorbed into the bloodstream
local drugstore and it seems          including moisturizers, sunscreens and anti-aging
every second product boasts           products. Because of this, many consumers are
a “ natural” label or some type       looking for natural alternatives to synthetic formulas.
of “ natural” claim. Why is this?     They feel better applying natural ingredients to their
In a nutshell, because Canada         bodies. You’ll see from the statistics that follow that
has no legal defi nition for what      thousands of consumers are making this change
constitutes a “ natural” ingredient   leading to a growing segment in the Canadian beauty
or claim, beauty companies are        industry. It’s expected to grow at 15 to 30 percent
free to use the term as they like.    per year. That’s far faster than traditional skincare and
And “ natural” is a great marketing   beauty segments.
word today that increases sales.
Legally, anyone can paste a           This guide to natural skincare is meant to offer
“ natural” sticker on a product       honest, concise information that you can use in your
regardless of what is inside.         everyday lives. From defi ning “natural” to exploring
Understandably, this is causing       product effi cacy, we hope it will help you make
great confusion at the beauty         better-informed choices and clear up some of the
counter. Consumers and beauty         “ natural” confusion.
advisors alike have no idea where
to fi nd truly natural skincare        Dave
products.                             Dave Lackie . Editor . Cosmetics magazine
1. Parabens. These are synthetic preservatives that
                           are potential endocrine disrupters that can affect our
                           hormone levels.

POTENTIAL                  2. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Think of these as harsh
                           cleansing agents that can potentially damage the lipid
  RISKS                    layer of your skin and cause irritation. By stripping the
                           skin’s natural oil levels which act as a fi rst-line barrier,
                           viruses can more easily enter into the body.

                           3. Petrolatum/Mineral Oil/Paraffi n. These are
                           non-renewable byproducts of crude oil that contain
                           potentially dangerous impurities.

The Natural Products       4. Chemical Sunscreens (Oxybenzone). These
Association in the         synthetic sunscreens get absorbed into the skin and
                           can potentially disrupt hormone balances. They are
United States, a           also suspected to cause some free-radical production.
72-year-old, not-for-
profi t organization        5. Glycols. Think of these petroleum-derived
committed to the           synthetic
                           chemicals as magnets. They are thought to be able to
natural products           draw other chemicals into the bloodstream.
industry has identifi ed
ten ingredients            6. Phthalates. Some scientists believe these
that they believe          synthetic fragrance compounds to be potential toxins.
could have long-           7. Ethoxylated ingredients like Sodium
term human health          Myreth Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate,
risks. These items         PEGs or PPGs. Ingredients that are made in part with
                           petrochemical ethylene oxide can result in 1,4 Dioxane,
include synthetic
                           a trace contaminant that is classifi ed as a possible
silicone or petroleum      carcinogen. Ethoxylated ingredients are the accidental
compounds. It’s            byproducts of the ethoxylation process so they are
important to note          never listed on an ingredient label.
that Health Canada         8. Ethanolamines like MEA/DEA/TEA. These
monitors all skincare      are foam and viscosity-boosting ingredients that can
ingredients including      interact with other ingredients to form nitrosamines, a
these ten and              known carcinogen.
prohibits any that         9. Synthetic Polymers (PVP/Acrylates).
have proven health         These synthetic stabilizers may contain residual PAHs
risks. Still, the NPA      (plycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons), thought to be the
believes that it is best   most widespread organic pollutant.
to avoid products that     10. Formaldehyde Donors (DMDM Hydrantoin/
contain the following:     Diazolidinyl Urea/Methylisothiazolinone).
                           These are preservatives that degrade over time
                           potentially releasing formaldehyde, a known carcinogen.
WHAT IS
     NATURAL?


According to                         led the initiative to defi ne the word natural.
Health Canada, the                   The defi nition is two-fold: ingredients that
governmental department              come from purposeful, renewable and plentiful
that monitors all skincare           sources found in nature such as fl ora, fauna and
                                     minerals. And, the products must be made with
and beauty products in               minimal processing that does not use synthetic
Canada, there is no legal            or harsh chemicals or otherwise dilute the purity
defi nition for “natural”             of the ingredients.
skincare products in
                                     When Is Non-Natural Acceptable?
Canada.                              Non-natural ingredients are only acceptable
                                     when there is no viable natural alternative
As long as a company does not        ingredient available and only when there are
knowingly deceive the public         absolutely no suspected potential human health
with it’s labellng, there is no      risks.
legal guideline that the company
must follow to use the term.         Natural Versus Organic
Beauty companies must include        Organic ingredients are a big trend these days.
a detailed list of ingredients       The term “ organic” really does apply to growing
on each product package              plants and fl owers without any pesticides – a
listing ingredients from largest     very benefi cial process, especially for food. In
percentage to least. And it must     personal care products, it is important to note
provide testing results to prove     that a product that is 70 percent organic can
that it is safe for Canadians. If    still contain 30 percent artifi cial ingredients
Health Canada spots any known        that are potentially harmful. Many scientists
dangerous ingredients, it will       believe it is more benefi cial to use 100 percent
refuse to allow the products to be   natural ingredients that pose no potential health
sold in this country.                risk to consumers and do not contain harmful
                                     byproducts than a product that contains some
A New Defi nition for                 organic ingredients. It’s best to read both
“ Natural”                           organic and natural labels very carefully and
Total Skin Care Blog, working with   ask questions about how these products are
Natural Products Association,        processed.
THE
     NATURAL
     SKINCARE
      MARKET



Just how big is the
natural personal care              Packaged Facts, a market researcher publisher in the
                                   United States agrees with this analysis. According
market today?                      to its most recent study, sales of natural and organic
                                   personal care products in the United States grew
That’s a tough question to         from $2 billion in 2001 to $6.1 billion in 2006.
answer. Since the category         The fi rm predicts that sales will top $10.2 billion by
is so new, there is little data    2012. The company’s retail analysts believe there
available. Market Research fi rm    are two factors driving these sales: the fi rst is public
Kline Group estimates the total    concern over environmental crises, fair trade practices
sales of natural products to       and the fear of possible cancer-causing chemicals.
be approximately 3 percent         The second is an aging baby boomer population that
of the market. Based on that       is looking to prolong health.
number, the current Canadian
market for natural products        “Overall retail sales of natural cosmetics and toiletries
would be about $120 million.       in Canada account for a smaller share of overall
That total is expected to double   market sales, although demand is growing, especially
in the next fi ve years             among younger consumers,” says Euromonitor
moving from niche category to      International’s Lauren Beth. “Demand is likely to grow
mainstream. While still a small    further as Canadians become more aware of the
category now, natural beauty       impact of the chemical compounds used in various
companies are posting annual       consumer products on their health and environment.
gains of anywhere from 14 to       New regulations that require manufacturers to list all
30 percent, far ahead of the       the ingredients in the products on product labels will
industry average. And retailers    likely further boost consumer confi dence and provide
are making more space for          more information regarding the content of products
natural products in store.         with natural claims.”
Setting the Natural Standard


1   Any natural personal
    care product must
    contain at least
                           2   There can be no
                               ingredients with any
                               potential suspected
                                                           3   You can not use any
                                                               processes that signifi cantly
                                                               or adversely alter the
    95% truly natural          human health risks within       purity/effect of the natural
    ingredients.               an allowable 5%.                ingredients.




                                    “ Natural Products Association
                                       Certifi ed” seal
                                            This seal is the new certification seal
                                              controlled by the Natural Product
                                               Association in the United States.
                                               Companies that comply with the
                                                above guidelines will have permission
                                                to use this seal on packaging. Expect
                                                to see the first seals appear on
                                                products this fall from Weleda, Trilogy
                                               Fragrances, Farmaesthetics, Badger,
                                               Aubrey Organics and Burt’s Bees
                                             with more to follow. It is designed to
                                            help consumers quickly identify honestly
                                           natural products.
                                         For more information, visit www.TheNaturalSeal.org.
DO NATURAL SKINCARE
     PRODUCTS ACTUALLY
          WORK?



Do natural skincare products really work?                          ingredient so we have to
                                                                   make our product slightly
Besides the obvious question about potentially                     synthetic. The second one
harmful ingredients, the biggest question                          is suncare. Because titanium
regarding natural skincare products is do they                     and zinc are the only natural
really work? As recent as fi ve years ago, many natural             suncare ingredients, when
skincare creams had the consistency of glue and smelled            you use them you get
even worse. And the effi cacy in many cases didn’t match            some whiteness to the
traditional beauty brands. But scientists such as Celeste          product which affects the
Lutario, who specialize in natural formulas at Burt’s Bees are     aesthetics. So those are
making great strides in both performance and texture. She          really the only two products
was most recently the research and development manager             we haven’t hit parity for
for Chanel skincare and she’s brought that expertise to the        benefi t and aesthetics to
natural skincare category with great results.                      mass market synthetic
“The fi rst thing my girlfriends ask is do natural skincare         brands. We get the same
products work?” laughs Celeste. “And that’s the big                quality.”
misconception out there right now: If it’s natural, it doesn’t
work as well or isn’t as aesthetically pleasing. I can tell you
we’ve been pretty successful at getting parity with mass
                                                                   How natural
brands on the market recently. In fact, we just did a test         ingredients interact
yesterday where we looked at all our categories against            with the skin
natural, pseudo-natural and mass market brands. And the
majority of our products hit parity with popular mass market       “ We haven’t tested
brands. There were only two exceptions: One is in haircare         this completely yet,
                                                                   but we know that the
because there are some ingredients that we call quaternary
                                                                   skin accepts natural
compounds or ‘quats’ (conditioning agents of haircare)
                                                                   ingredients better
and those aren’t made completely naturally yet. If a quat is
                                                                   than synthetic ones,”
not used in a hair product, the hair has the consistency of        explains Celeste.
straw or a bird’s nest. There is no natural alternative for that




    “Researchers have proven that approximately 60% of skincare
               products get absorbed into the body.”
“ Think of it this way: the way a plant survives is by carefully
balancing all the minerals, vitamins and antioxidants that it contains.
So when you use a plant in a natural skincare product, those
ingredients stay balanced. Your own skin recognizes this balance
and will accept it much more readily than a synthetic version. The
way the synthetic cosmetic industry does it is they mimic one of
those pieces found in the plant. They’ll look and say ‘Oh, those
AHAs get rid of wrinkles. Let’s fi nd out that chemical makeup,
mimic it, concentrate it and use it in a product.’ The issue with
this method is the body wants to stay balanced. As soon as you
put that concentrated material on your skin, the body feels it is
out of balance so it almost feels it is hurt. It will immediately start
producing other chemicals that it normally won’t to compensate for
that concentration. That’s why when AHAs fi rst came out, you saw
a lot of redness. When you apply synthetic AHAs on the skin, it’s
almost like a little burn. The body feels it’s being burned and hurt
so it starts sending all these healing chemicals to that area. So then
it heals the skin. Then most people repeat this process every day.
And the skin never feels it is in balance. Over time, you may actually
be hurting your skin.”

Evaluating Potential Long-Term Health Risks
Properly identifying ingredients with potential long-term
health risks is an ongoing process. Researchers around
the world in laboratories and universities are constantly testing
ingredients and how they react in the body. The top natural skincare
brands are constantly monitoring medical journals and toxicology
reports that publish the results to make sure they are using the safest
possible natural ingredients. (Health Canada also monitors these
journals and studies.) Europe is far more stringent than other regions
when it comes to ingredients with potential long-term health risks,
so any change in European regulation is carefully analyzed. You’ll
notice that the best brand will adjust their formulas as soon as any
ingredient in a product shows any kind of possible harm.
HIGH-TECH
         VERSUS
         NATURAL
        SKINCARE




High-tech skincare brands are pushing                         Natural skincare
the limits of anti-aging technology                           companies look
today by formulating products that                            at skincare from
penetrate deeper into the skin and                            a very different
actually work to manipulate skin cells                        perspective.
and even DNA.                                                 They want to make the skin
Nanotechnology is a prime example. Scientists                 healthier so it looks better.
are now experimenting with how to change strands              These natural chemists
of DNA to slow the aging process and even reverse             focus on the lower layers of
it. And while this science offers great potential results,    the skin where the cells are
it also ignores the intelligence of the body’s own            being produced and ask
systems. Can this manipulation cause potential long-          themselves how can they
term damage? “ My theory is that this can cause harm          make everything healthy?
because of the way it is manipulating the body,” says         They want to do everything
Ms. Lutrario. “ When you start to get into very detailed      they can to make the
technology where you get into the blood stream                cells fully moisturized and
and you’re manipulating on how the body reacts to             ensure they have the proper
something, the potential for something to go wrong            chemical makeup. So, 28
is much higher. The cosmetics industry over the next          days later when those cells
ten years is going to have very significant scientific        make it to the skin’s surface,
breakthroughs. They want to manipulate the body so            they create this beautiful
that it doesn’t age. When you start dealing with that,        radiance. “If you keep
in my opinion, you always have dormant cells that have        everything moisturized and
the potential to go haywire. And when you start messing       nourished, the wrinkles will
with these things, the potential is greater. I’m not saying   go away.” Wrinkles come
it is going to happen. But the potential is there.”           from unhealthy cells.
WHAT GOES
  ON, GOES IN


Skin cells take about         The most damaging factors for skin are
six weeks to progress         sun damage and free radicals that can
from the lower layers of      destroy the cells. So you’ll notice that
the skin to the surface.      natural skincare products will contain
                              antioxidants, essential oils with the
And skincare chemists
                              proper balance of vitamins, minerals and
want to keep those cells
                              amino acids. Chemists will choose the
as nourished, hydrated        best essential oils for a specifi c purpose.
and healthy as possible       Remember, approximately 60% of what is
throughout their life.        applied to the skin gets absorbed into the
This results in beautifully   lower layers of the skin.
radiant skin.
THE
       GREATER
        GOOD


Is it time to take a closer                       are becoming more demanding of the
                                                  companies they do business with and
look at the companies                             won’t permit activities that pollute or
behind your favourite lip                         otherwise damage the environment.” He
gloss or foundation?                              says the younger generation in particular
                                                  is concerned that they are left to clean up
In this new era of environmentalism               the mess left by earlier generations. They
and social responsibility, how a                  want a healthy environment to leave their
beauty company produces a product                 children.
is becoming as important as what
it produces. Is a beautiful lipstick              So what can you do? Begin by asking
worth the price if its manufacturing              questions. Visit websites and read annual
causes your water to be polluted                  reports. Many cosmetic companies have
or garbage dumps to be filled                     1-800 consumer hotlines you can call with
unnecessarily?                                    questions. If you want to see changes to
                                                  your favourite brands, write the president
There’s a new generation of skincare              and ask him or her to make changes. And
company that believes it’s equally important      most of all, be discerning about what
to respect nature, our communities and            companies you do decide to support. Your
human rights as it is to manufacture body         dollars have great infl uence.
lotions and lip balms. This philosophy
is called “ The Greater Good” and it is
based on two simple and profound beliefs:
Natural products work in harmony with
our bodies to promote balance and well-
being; and we should respect, preserve
and improve the precious resource of our
environment. These companies believe that
if you take care of the environment and our
communities and produce products that
respect nature, the profi ts will follow. It’s a
forward-thinking business model.

“ Consumers are becoming more savvy
and educated thanks to the web,” says
Alan Middleton, a professor of marketing
at the Schulich School of Business. “ They
SAVING
       THE BEES




What would happen                    population: Approximately 70 percent of fruits
if the world’s bee                   and vegetables are pollinated by bees.
population suddenly                  There are more than 20,000 different species
disappeared?                         of bees and an estimated thousand more that
How would farmers pollinate          have yet to be identified by scientists. A recent
fruits and vegetables without        bee symposium in Toronto hosted by many
them? It’s a question that           of the world’s top bee experts established
scientists around the world          this problem is more than a North American
are asking with the mysterious       phenomenon. Bee colonies are disappearing
disappearance of a significant       across Europe and Asia as well. And it is not
percentage of the world’s bee        just domesticated bees, but wild bees that
population recently.                 are dying. These researchers claim pesticides,
                                     loss of habitat, disease and pollution are prime
It’s called Colony Collapse          contributors to this sudden decline. The bees’
Disorder (CCD) and it’s become       fragile systems can’t handle the sheer volume
a great threat to the world’s food   of chemicals and pollution in the air.
Natural Skin Care
  Stress                                         Cleanliness
    Stress is a trigger for most skin              Good daily hygiene is critical. If you
  conditions. Address the cause of your          sweat a lot or wear a lot of makeup ensure
  stress.                                        that you clean your skin before bed.
    Breathing, meditation, exercise,               Clean with gentle, natural soap in tepid
  relaxation techniques and rest all assist in   water and dry thoroughly afterwards.
  reducing stress.
                                                   Prevent skin irritations by using non-
  Clothes                                        abrasive products, including sharp blades
                                                 for shaving.
    Wear clothes that ensure you don’t get
  too hot or too cold.                           Sunlight
    Cotton or natural fibers allow your skin       15 - 30 minutes of sunlight a day
  to breathe.                                    benefits most skin conditions.
    Choose clothes that are loose without          Avoid staying in direct sunlight in late
  restrictions or rough-textured, scratchy       morning and early afternoon.
  surfaces.
                                                   Use full spectrum lights in your home
                                                 and place of work.

                                                 Nutrition
                                                   Water is needed to help the body flush
                                                 out toxins. Drink at least 8 glasses a day.
                                                   Be conscious of your reaction to food
                                                 and work with your Naturopathic Doctor
                                                 to determine if allergies are part of the
                                                 problem.
                                                   Whole grains, fruits and vegetables
                                                 provide the skin with needed nutrients.
                                                   Avoid caffeine, alcohol and nicotine
                                                 as they can constrict blood vessels that
                                                 nourish skin. This increases the appearance
                                                 of deep wrinkles, aging and decreases the
                                                 ability for skin to heal.
  Use cosmetics sparingly and allow your       materials and prevents premature aging of
skin time to breathe naturally.                the skin. Avoid brushing open, inflamed or
                                               oozing areas of skin.
  Go at least 5 days without cosmetics and
notice the difference it makes to your skin.   HOT AND COLD CONTRAST creates a
                                               pump-like action that aids in healing by
  Avoid skin products with alcohol or acid
                                               stimulating the circulation of white blood
because they dry the skin.
                                               cells to an area. This technique is great for
  Many cosmetics have creams, fillers and      treating acute infections, increasing muscle
substances that block the pores and sweat      tone and strength, and healing varicose
glands decreasing natural detoxification.      veins. Start with an application of hot water
  Use natural products. Chemical               and end with cold. Apply the hot twice as
deodorants, antiperspirants and cleaning       long as the cold and repeat 3 - 5 times.
products often destroy the natural             CASTOR OIL PACKS applied topically to
protective bacteria on the skin.               unbroken skin increases local circulation,
  Match your skin care products to             promotes removal of toxins and stimulates
your skin type and use natural oils, herbal    healing of underlying tissues and organs. It
creams or ointments.                           is absorbed into the lymph circulation and
                                               can improve digestion, relieve constipation,
  Topical or prescription creams often
                                               stimulate detoxification of organs, enhance
suppress the signs of skin concerns and
                                               immune function, reduce swelling and
prevent the body from detoxifying through
                                               decrease menstrual irregularities.
the skin.

SPECIFIC SKIN CARE TECHNIQUES

GENTLE MASSAGE causes local
stimulation of the nervous system, reduces
muscle tension, improves lymphatic and
blood circulation, aids in healing, controls
pain and reduces swelling. Avoid scratching
or rubbing as this can disrupt the natural
healing process of the skin.
DRY SKIN BRUSHING loosens up dead
layers of skin, opens pores and helps to
retain the natural oils of the skin. The
friction action tones the skin, improves
circulation, helps elimination of waste
THE NATURAL
 STANDARD
http://www.totalskincareblog.com
http://www.totalskincareblog.com
http://www.totalskincareblog.com

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http://www.totalskincareblog.com

  • 1. Total Skin Care Blog .com Your Honest Guide to Natural Skincare
  • 2. “NATURAL” CONFUSION Is there any subject The honest truth of the matter is that we now live in an increasingly polluted world. And this pollution in the beauty industry is affecting our health and the condition of our today more confusing skin. Just look at the rates of adult acne and skin than natural skincare? sensitivities these days. Scientists have proven that over 60% of the products you apply to your Walk down an aisle in your face and body get absorbed into the bloodstream local drugstore and it seems including moisturizers, sunscreens and anti-aging every second product boasts products. Because of this, many consumers are a “ natural” label or some type looking for natural alternatives to synthetic formulas. of “ natural” claim. Why is this? They feel better applying natural ingredients to their In a nutshell, because Canada bodies. You’ll see from the statistics that follow that has no legal defi nition for what thousands of consumers are making this change constitutes a “ natural” ingredient leading to a growing segment in the Canadian beauty or claim, beauty companies are industry. It’s expected to grow at 15 to 30 percent free to use the term as they like. per year. That’s far faster than traditional skincare and And “ natural” is a great marketing beauty segments. word today that increases sales. Legally, anyone can paste a This guide to natural skincare is meant to offer “ natural” sticker on a product honest, concise information that you can use in your regardless of what is inside. everyday lives. From defi ning “natural” to exploring Understandably, this is causing product effi cacy, we hope it will help you make great confusion at the beauty better-informed choices and clear up some of the counter. Consumers and beauty “ natural” confusion. advisors alike have no idea where to fi nd truly natural skincare Dave products. Dave Lackie . Editor . Cosmetics magazine
  • 3. 1. Parabens. These are synthetic preservatives that are potential endocrine disrupters that can affect our hormone levels. POTENTIAL 2. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Think of these as harsh cleansing agents that can potentially damage the lipid RISKS layer of your skin and cause irritation. By stripping the skin’s natural oil levels which act as a fi rst-line barrier, viruses can more easily enter into the body. 3. Petrolatum/Mineral Oil/Paraffi n. These are non-renewable byproducts of crude oil that contain potentially dangerous impurities. The Natural Products 4. Chemical Sunscreens (Oxybenzone). These Association in the synthetic sunscreens get absorbed into the skin and can potentially disrupt hormone balances. They are United States, a also suspected to cause some free-radical production. 72-year-old, not-for- profi t organization 5. Glycols. Think of these petroleum-derived committed to the synthetic chemicals as magnets. They are thought to be able to natural products draw other chemicals into the bloodstream. industry has identifi ed ten ingredients 6. Phthalates. Some scientists believe these that they believe synthetic fragrance compounds to be potential toxins. could have long- 7. Ethoxylated ingredients like Sodium term human health Myreth Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate, risks. These items PEGs or PPGs. Ingredients that are made in part with petrochemical ethylene oxide can result in 1,4 Dioxane, include synthetic a trace contaminant that is classifi ed as a possible silicone or petroleum carcinogen. Ethoxylated ingredients are the accidental compounds. It’s byproducts of the ethoxylation process so they are important to note never listed on an ingredient label. that Health Canada 8. Ethanolamines like MEA/DEA/TEA. These monitors all skincare are foam and viscosity-boosting ingredients that can ingredients including interact with other ingredients to form nitrosamines, a these ten and known carcinogen. prohibits any that 9. Synthetic Polymers (PVP/Acrylates). have proven health These synthetic stabilizers may contain residual PAHs risks. Still, the NPA (plycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons), thought to be the believes that it is best most widespread organic pollutant. to avoid products that 10. Formaldehyde Donors (DMDM Hydrantoin/ contain the following: Diazolidinyl Urea/Methylisothiazolinone). These are preservatives that degrade over time potentially releasing formaldehyde, a known carcinogen.
  • 4. WHAT IS NATURAL? According to led the initiative to defi ne the word natural. Health Canada, the The defi nition is two-fold: ingredients that governmental department come from purposeful, renewable and plentiful that monitors all skincare sources found in nature such as fl ora, fauna and minerals. And, the products must be made with and beauty products in minimal processing that does not use synthetic Canada, there is no legal or harsh chemicals or otherwise dilute the purity defi nition for “natural” of the ingredients. skincare products in When Is Non-Natural Acceptable? Canada. Non-natural ingredients are only acceptable when there is no viable natural alternative As long as a company does not ingredient available and only when there are knowingly deceive the public absolutely no suspected potential human health with it’s labellng, there is no risks. legal guideline that the company must follow to use the term. Natural Versus Organic Beauty companies must include Organic ingredients are a big trend these days. a detailed list of ingredients The term “ organic” really does apply to growing on each product package plants and fl owers without any pesticides – a listing ingredients from largest very benefi cial process, especially for food. In percentage to least. And it must personal care products, it is important to note provide testing results to prove that a product that is 70 percent organic can that it is safe for Canadians. If still contain 30 percent artifi cial ingredients Health Canada spots any known that are potentially harmful. Many scientists dangerous ingredients, it will believe it is more benefi cial to use 100 percent refuse to allow the products to be natural ingredients that pose no potential health sold in this country. risk to consumers and do not contain harmful byproducts than a product that contains some A New Defi nition for organic ingredients. It’s best to read both “ Natural” organic and natural labels very carefully and Total Skin Care Blog, working with ask questions about how these products are Natural Products Association, processed.
  • 5. THE NATURAL SKINCARE MARKET Just how big is the natural personal care Packaged Facts, a market researcher publisher in the United States agrees with this analysis. According market today? to its most recent study, sales of natural and organic personal care products in the United States grew That’s a tough question to from $2 billion in 2001 to $6.1 billion in 2006. answer. Since the category The fi rm predicts that sales will top $10.2 billion by is so new, there is little data 2012. The company’s retail analysts believe there available. Market Research fi rm are two factors driving these sales: the fi rst is public Kline Group estimates the total concern over environmental crises, fair trade practices sales of natural products to and the fear of possible cancer-causing chemicals. be approximately 3 percent The second is an aging baby boomer population that of the market. Based on that is looking to prolong health. number, the current Canadian market for natural products “Overall retail sales of natural cosmetics and toiletries would be about $120 million. in Canada account for a smaller share of overall That total is expected to double market sales, although demand is growing, especially in the next fi ve years among younger consumers,” says Euromonitor moving from niche category to International’s Lauren Beth. “Demand is likely to grow mainstream. While still a small further as Canadians become more aware of the category now, natural beauty impact of the chemical compounds used in various companies are posting annual consumer products on their health and environment. gains of anywhere from 14 to New regulations that require manufacturers to list all 30 percent, far ahead of the the ingredients in the products on product labels will industry average. And retailers likely further boost consumer confi dence and provide are making more space for more information regarding the content of products natural products in store. with natural claims.”
  • 6. Setting the Natural Standard 1 Any natural personal care product must contain at least 2 There can be no ingredients with any potential suspected 3 You can not use any processes that signifi cantly or adversely alter the 95% truly natural human health risks within purity/effect of the natural ingredients. an allowable 5%. ingredients. “ Natural Products Association Certifi ed” seal This seal is the new certification seal controlled by the Natural Product Association in the United States. Companies that comply with the above guidelines will have permission to use this seal on packaging. Expect to see the first seals appear on products this fall from Weleda, Trilogy Fragrances, Farmaesthetics, Badger, Aubrey Organics and Burt’s Bees with more to follow. It is designed to help consumers quickly identify honestly natural products. For more information, visit www.TheNaturalSeal.org.
  • 7. DO NATURAL SKINCARE PRODUCTS ACTUALLY WORK? Do natural skincare products really work? ingredient so we have to make our product slightly Besides the obvious question about potentially synthetic. The second one harmful ingredients, the biggest question is suncare. Because titanium regarding natural skincare products is do they and zinc are the only natural really work? As recent as fi ve years ago, many natural suncare ingredients, when skincare creams had the consistency of glue and smelled you use them you get even worse. And the effi cacy in many cases didn’t match some whiteness to the traditional beauty brands. But scientists such as Celeste product which affects the Lutario, who specialize in natural formulas at Burt’s Bees are aesthetics. So those are making great strides in both performance and texture. She really the only two products was most recently the research and development manager we haven’t hit parity for for Chanel skincare and she’s brought that expertise to the benefi t and aesthetics to natural skincare category with great results. mass market synthetic “The fi rst thing my girlfriends ask is do natural skincare brands. We get the same products work?” laughs Celeste. “And that’s the big quality.” misconception out there right now: If it’s natural, it doesn’t work as well or isn’t as aesthetically pleasing. I can tell you we’ve been pretty successful at getting parity with mass How natural brands on the market recently. In fact, we just did a test ingredients interact yesterday where we looked at all our categories against with the skin natural, pseudo-natural and mass market brands. And the majority of our products hit parity with popular mass market “ We haven’t tested brands. There were only two exceptions: One is in haircare this completely yet, but we know that the because there are some ingredients that we call quaternary skin accepts natural compounds or ‘quats’ (conditioning agents of haircare) ingredients better and those aren’t made completely naturally yet. If a quat is than synthetic ones,” not used in a hair product, the hair has the consistency of explains Celeste. straw or a bird’s nest. There is no natural alternative for that “Researchers have proven that approximately 60% of skincare products get absorbed into the body.”
  • 8. “ Think of it this way: the way a plant survives is by carefully balancing all the minerals, vitamins and antioxidants that it contains. So when you use a plant in a natural skincare product, those ingredients stay balanced. Your own skin recognizes this balance and will accept it much more readily than a synthetic version. The way the synthetic cosmetic industry does it is they mimic one of those pieces found in the plant. They’ll look and say ‘Oh, those AHAs get rid of wrinkles. Let’s fi nd out that chemical makeup, mimic it, concentrate it and use it in a product.’ The issue with this method is the body wants to stay balanced. As soon as you put that concentrated material on your skin, the body feels it is out of balance so it almost feels it is hurt. It will immediately start producing other chemicals that it normally won’t to compensate for that concentration. That’s why when AHAs fi rst came out, you saw a lot of redness. When you apply synthetic AHAs on the skin, it’s almost like a little burn. The body feels it’s being burned and hurt so it starts sending all these healing chemicals to that area. So then it heals the skin. Then most people repeat this process every day. And the skin never feels it is in balance. Over time, you may actually be hurting your skin.” Evaluating Potential Long-Term Health Risks Properly identifying ingredients with potential long-term health risks is an ongoing process. Researchers around the world in laboratories and universities are constantly testing ingredients and how they react in the body. The top natural skincare brands are constantly monitoring medical journals and toxicology reports that publish the results to make sure they are using the safest possible natural ingredients. (Health Canada also monitors these journals and studies.) Europe is far more stringent than other regions when it comes to ingredients with potential long-term health risks, so any change in European regulation is carefully analyzed. You’ll notice that the best brand will adjust their formulas as soon as any ingredient in a product shows any kind of possible harm.
  • 9. HIGH-TECH VERSUS NATURAL SKINCARE High-tech skincare brands are pushing Natural skincare the limits of anti-aging technology companies look today by formulating products that at skincare from penetrate deeper into the skin and a very different actually work to manipulate skin cells perspective. and even DNA. They want to make the skin Nanotechnology is a prime example. Scientists healthier so it looks better. are now experimenting with how to change strands These natural chemists of DNA to slow the aging process and even reverse focus on the lower layers of it. And while this science offers great potential results, the skin where the cells are it also ignores the intelligence of the body’s own being produced and ask systems. Can this manipulation cause potential long- themselves how can they term damage? “ My theory is that this can cause harm make everything healthy? because of the way it is manipulating the body,” says They want to do everything Ms. Lutrario. “ When you start to get into very detailed they can to make the technology where you get into the blood stream cells fully moisturized and and you’re manipulating on how the body reacts to ensure they have the proper something, the potential for something to go wrong chemical makeup. So, 28 is much higher. The cosmetics industry over the next days later when those cells ten years is going to have very significant scientific make it to the skin’s surface, breakthroughs. They want to manipulate the body so they create this beautiful that it doesn’t age. When you start dealing with that, radiance. “If you keep in my opinion, you always have dormant cells that have everything moisturized and the potential to go haywire. And when you start messing nourished, the wrinkles will with these things, the potential is greater. I’m not saying go away.” Wrinkles come it is going to happen. But the potential is there.” from unhealthy cells.
  • 10. WHAT GOES ON, GOES IN Skin cells take about The most damaging factors for skin are six weeks to progress sun damage and free radicals that can from the lower layers of destroy the cells. So you’ll notice that the skin to the surface. natural skincare products will contain antioxidants, essential oils with the And skincare chemists proper balance of vitamins, minerals and want to keep those cells amino acids. Chemists will choose the as nourished, hydrated best essential oils for a specifi c purpose. and healthy as possible Remember, approximately 60% of what is throughout their life. applied to the skin gets absorbed into the This results in beautifully lower layers of the skin. radiant skin.
  • 11. THE GREATER GOOD Is it time to take a closer are becoming more demanding of the companies they do business with and look at the companies won’t permit activities that pollute or behind your favourite lip otherwise damage the environment.” He gloss or foundation? says the younger generation in particular is concerned that they are left to clean up In this new era of environmentalism the mess left by earlier generations. They and social responsibility, how a want a healthy environment to leave their beauty company produces a product children. is becoming as important as what it produces. Is a beautiful lipstick So what can you do? Begin by asking worth the price if its manufacturing questions. Visit websites and read annual causes your water to be polluted reports. Many cosmetic companies have or garbage dumps to be filled 1-800 consumer hotlines you can call with unnecessarily? questions. If you want to see changes to your favourite brands, write the president There’s a new generation of skincare and ask him or her to make changes. And company that believes it’s equally important most of all, be discerning about what to respect nature, our communities and companies you do decide to support. Your human rights as it is to manufacture body dollars have great infl uence. lotions and lip balms. This philosophy is called “ The Greater Good” and it is based on two simple and profound beliefs: Natural products work in harmony with our bodies to promote balance and well- being; and we should respect, preserve and improve the precious resource of our environment. These companies believe that if you take care of the environment and our communities and produce products that respect nature, the profi ts will follow. It’s a forward-thinking business model. “ Consumers are becoming more savvy and educated thanks to the web,” says Alan Middleton, a professor of marketing at the Schulich School of Business. “ They
  • 12. SAVING THE BEES What would happen population: Approximately 70 percent of fruits if the world’s bee and vegetables are pollinated by bees. population suddenly There are more than 20,000 different species disappeared? of bees and an estimated thousand more that How would farmers pollinate have yet to be identified by scientists. A recent fruits and vegetables without bee symposium in Toronto hosted by many them? It’s a question that of the world’s top bee experts established scientists around the world this problem is more than a North American are asking with the mysterious phenomenon. Bee colonies are disappearing disappearance of a significant across Europe and Asia as well. And it is not percentage of the world’s bee just domesticated bees, but wild bees that population recently. are dying. These researchers claim pesticides, loss of habitat, disease and pollution are prime It’s called Colony Collapse contributors to this sudden decline. The bees’ Disorder (CCD) and it’s become fragile systems can’t handle the sheer volume a great threat to the world’s food of chemicals and pollution in the air.
  • 13. Natural Skin Care Stress Cleanliness   Stress is a trigger for most skin   Good daily hygiene is critical. If you conditions. Address the cause of your sweat a lot or wear a lot of makeup ensure stress. that you clean your skin before bed.   Breathing, meditation, exercise,   Clean with gentle, natural soap in tepid relaxation techniques and rest all assist in water and dry thoroughly afterwards. reducing stress.   Prevent skin irritations by using non- Clothes abrasive products, including sharp blades for shaving.   Wear clothes that ensure you don’t get too hot or too cold. Sunlight   Cotton or natural fibers allow your skin   15 - 30 minutes of sunlight a day to breathe. benefits most skin conditions.   Choose clothes that are loose without   Avoid staying in direct sunlight in late restrictions or rough-textured, scratchy morning and early afternoon. surfaces.   Use full spectrum lights in your home and place of work. Nutrition   Water is needed to help the body flush out toxins. Drink at least 8 glasses a day.   Be conscious of your reaction to food and work with your Naturopathic Doctor to determine if allergies are part of the problem.   Whole grains, fruits and vegetables provide the skin with needed nutrients.   Avoid caffeine, alcohol and nicotine as they can constrict blood vessels that nourish skin. This increases the appearance of deep wrinkles, aging and decreases the ability for skin to heal.
  • 14.   Use cosmetics sparingly and allow your materials and prevents premature aging of skin time to breathe naturally. the skin. Avoid brushing open, inflamed or oozing areas of skin.   Go at least 5 days without cosmetics and notice the difference it makes to your skin. HOT AND COLD CONTRAST creates a pump-like action that aids in healing by   Avoid skin products with alcohol or acid stimulating the circulation of white blood because they dry the skin. cells to an area. This technique is great for   Many cosmetics have creams, fillers and treating acute infections, increasing muscle substances that block the pores and sweat tone and strength, and healing varicose glands decreasing natural detoxification. veins. Start with an application of hot water   Use natural products. Chemical and end with cold. Apply the hot twice as deodorants, antiperspirants and cleaning long as the cold and repeat 3 - 5 times. products often destroy the natural CASTOR OIL PACKS applied topically to protective bacteria on the skin. unbroken skin increases local circulation,   Match your skin care products to promotes removal of toxins and stimulates your skin type and use natural oils, herbal healing of underlying tissues and organs. It creams or ointments. is absorbed into the lymph circulation and can improve digestion, relieve constipation,   Topical or prescription creams often stimulate detoxification of organs, enhance suppress the signs of skin concerns and immune function, reduce swelling and prevent the body from detoxifying through decrease menstrual irregularities. the skin. SPECIFIC SKIN CARE TECHNIQUES GENTLE MASSAGE causes local stimulation of the nervous system, reduces muscle tension, improves lymphatic and blood circulation, aids in healing, controls pain and reduces swelling. Avoid scratching or rubbing as this can disrupt the natural healing process of the skin. DRY SKIN BRUSHING loosens up dead layers of skin, opens pores and helps to retain the natural oils of the skin. The friction action tones the skin, improves circulation, helps elimination of waste