This document contains a summary of fashion-related articles and sections from an issue of WWD (Women's Wear Daily). The lead article discusses labor changes in China, including potential minimum wage increases and unions forming at Foxconn. Other sections cover topics like accessories, beauty, Marc Jacobs moving his show, and multicultural consumers. The document also previews several Fall 2013 fashion shows in New York, including Monique Lhuillier, Tommy Hilfiger, Billy Reid, Tibi, and DKNY. Protests at the Trina Turk show by the International Labor Rights Forum regarding fire safety in Bangladeshi factories are also mentioned.
2. Table of Contents
Cover Page……………………………..1
Table of Contents…………………..2
Lead Articles & Sections….......3-8
Fashion Week Report…………9-24
Five Trends…………………………….25-30
Three Top Shows……………………31-32
Press Release………………………….33-34
WWD Editors List………………….35-36
4. Friday,February8,2013
Lead Article
Playing for Keeps by Iman, founder and CEO of Iman Cosmetics
• Iman cosmetics understands that there is a different market that demands cosmetics
that matches their skin tone.
• Great marketing strategy, they stressed diversity. They are the pioneer in the field of
cosmetics for different ethnics
• Iman Cosmetics tapped into the culture itself, to understand what the market needs
and wants. For example, hiring people from local communities for focus groups and
learning their language
Sections
Beauty
Marc Jacobs Moves Show
Eye
Fashion Scoops
Multicultural Consumer
New York Collections Fall 2013
10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2013
beauty
beauty brand that filled
the gap for black women
because it was deeply
personal for me. It was
more than foundations
and powders; it was ap-
pealing to a deep psychologi-
cal need that I think all black
women needed at that time: to
be told that they were beauti-
ful, invited to sit at the cool
table and courted in high style.
However, as we gathered more
information about the game we
were in, we started to shift into
the more holistic vision that we
are known for now throughout
our positioning and ad-
vertising: Women of all
skin tones want to look
good when they rule the
world. That is our funda-
mental principle.
osmetics,
how to resonate with their cul-
tural group. It starts at home.
2. Free Your Mind: Marketers
can be incredibly perceptive
about trends but tend to ste-
reotype multicultural markets.
Multicultural markets are nu-
anced, but not alien.
3. Take It to the Streets: I’m not a
big fan of the “expert opinion.”
Nothing really beats hearing it
specific cultural groups,
but if advertising may
be potentially offensive.
Showing a collarbone to
advertise luminous skin
may be a norm in one
country, but may be con-
sidered lascivious in another.
5. Be a Flagrant Button Pusher:
We’re a big fan of what some
marketers call “the wink.” This
is when a general market ad-
vertisement or marketing cam-
paign has a subversive message
of alliance to a multicultural
group with a sly social cue that
is completely devoid of stereo-
type. Again, this is where sophis-
tication comes in. There’s
usually an insider refer-
ence that someone who
is not part of that group
would miss, thus hitting a
sweet spot of recognition.
Multicultural consum-
ers often don’t want to be
singled out, just included.
tones of color spend their dis-
posable dollars on beauty, and
split the variables every which
way to Sunday but in the end the
findings were unequivocal. Well,
what if she lives in Nashville
versus New York? She wants to
the
you clearly have to be in bed with
the multicultural consumer. It
would be an exercise in foolish-
ness not to invite this customer
out to play. But the playground
mentality has been industry
standard for longer than it needs
to be, where someone new rolls
he atten-
{Continued from page one}
Itwouldbeanexercise
infoolishnessnotto
ethemulticultural
VIEWPOINT
The Multicultural Consumer:
Don’tJustDateHer,MarryHer
TANKTHINK
BY IMAN
Iman founded Iman Cosmetics, a groundbreaking beauty collection
designed for women with skin of color, in 1994. Discovered in
Nairobi in 1973 by Peter Beard, Iman became one of fashion’s most
iconic models throughout the Seventies and Eighties. Today her
products are sold throughout the world.
10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2013
beauty
beauty brand that filled
the gap for black women
because it was deeply
personal for me. It was
more than foundations
and powders; it was ap-
pealing to a deep psychologi-
cal need that I think all black
women needed at that time: to
be told that they were beauti-
ful, invited to sit at the cool
table and courted in high style.
However, as we gathered more
information about the game we
were in, we started to shift into
the more holistic vision that we
are known for now throughout
our positioning and ad-
vertising: Women of all
skin tones want to look
good when they rule the
world. That is our funda-
mental principle.
At Iman Cosmetics,
we stick to a basic busi-
ness strategy that starts
with marketing and ac-
tually extends to a cor-
porate positioning.
1. What’s Your MI (Multicultural
Intelligence)?: This is the spring-
board for any marketing group
that wishes to take a sophisti-
cated approach to advertising
and builds sustainable brand
loyalty. How diverse is the
group sitting at the boardroom
table? Chances are, if there is
how to resonate with their cul-
tural group. It starts at home.
2. Free Your Mind: Marketers
can be incredibly perceptive
about trends but tend to ste-
reotype multicultural markets.
Multicultural markets are nu-
anced, but not alien.
3. Take It to the Streets: I’m not a
big fan of the “expert opinion.”
Nothing really beats hearing it
from the horse’s mouth, because
direct communication with the
communities of interest lends
authenticity to insights. Hire
people from local communities
as focus-group moderators.
4. Know the Language: Any mar-
keting group has to be on board
with cultural mores. If you’re
specific cultural groups,
but if advertising may
be potentially offensive.
Showing a collarbone to
advertise luminous skin
may be a norm in one
country, but may be con-
sidered lascivious in another.
5. Be a Flagrant Button Pusher:
We’re a big fan of what some
marketers call “the wink.” This
is when a general market ad-
vertisement or marketing cam-
paign has a subversive message
of alliance to a multicultural
group with a sly social cue that
is completely devoid of stereo-
type. Again, this is where sophis-
tication comes in. There’s
usually an insider refer-
ence that someone who
is not part of that group
would miss, thus hitting a
sweet spot of recognition.
Multicultural consum-
ers often don’t want to be
singled out, just included.
6. Don’t Just Date Her, Marry
Her: If you target a multi-
cultural group one year,
you can’t simply drop that group
because there’s a new trend and
focus. If groups are not courted
on a continuous basis, they just
go find a brand that will treat
them the way they deserve to
be treated, and this negligence
translates to a hit on your ROI
(return on investment). Period.
tones of color spend the
posable dollars on beaut
split the variables every
way to Sunday but in the e
findings were unequivoca
what if she lives in Nas
versus New York? She w
look good when she rul
world. Or how about 18 to
sus 35 to 50? She wants t
good when she rules the
Or a median income of $
versus one over $100,000
wants to look good whe
rules the world. We can
change the aesthetics; w
to change our thinking.
Everyone is hip to th
{Continued from page one}
Itwouldbeanexercise
infoolishnessnotto
invitethemulticultural
customerouttoplay.
VIEWPOINT
The Multicultural Consumer:
Don’tJustDateHer,MarryHer
TANKTHINK
BY IMAN
Iman founded Iman Cosm
designed for women with
Nairobi in 1973 by Peter B
iconic models throughou
products are sold throug
The Coach Love bottle (new
fragrance for Valentine’s Day)
5. Monday,February11,2013
Lead Article
China’s Changing Labor by Kathleen E. McLaughlin
• Government seek to raise minimum wage by 2015. This will encourage more rural workers to fill jobs in
the cities
• Foxconn, the country’s largest private employer, is allowing employees to vote their union
representatives. This movement could change the country’s the manufacturing industry and labor force
• Textiles and apparel industries feel pressure to follow suit, especially if the outcome is favorable to
workers
Sections
Accessories
Innerwear/legwear
Beauty
Marc Jacobs Moves Show
Fashion Scoops
Multicultural Consumer
New York Collections Fall 2013
Nicole Miller
8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013
Monique Lhuillier: Since her spring
presentation five months ago,
Tommy Hilfiger: The historic
Park Avenue Armory was
zip-up jackets and a Prince
of Wales print on topcoats.
band jackets to riffs on tuxedo
dressing, which the designer
Outsiders women’s collection.
Retro staples like A-line
Billy ReidTommy HilfigerMonique Lhuillier
Billy Reid
FALL
NEW YORK 2013
COLLECTIONS
LONDONFASHIONWEEKLONDONFASHIONWEEK
MACCOSMETICS.TUMBLR.COM
NEWYORKFASHIONWEEK
WWD.COM
FIRE SAFETY REFORMS: A handful ofpeople from the International LaborRights Forum distributed fliers Sundayafternoon in front of Lincoln Centerprior to Trina Turk’s fashion show,protesting Gap’s fire safety program.In the wake of recent factory fires inBangladesh and Pakistan that havekilled hundreds of apparel workers,ILRF is calling for apparel companies toshare their knowledge about workplacehazards openly and pay sufficient pricesto factories for necessary buildingrepairs. “We’re asking Trina Turk todo the right thing,” said Liana Foxvog,director of organizing for the ILRF. Sheexplained that Turk did a line last yearfor Banana Republic “and we believeshe has the ear of the Gap.”
According to ILRF, Gap’s monitorsrepeatedly gave a clean bill of healthto That’s It Sportswear, the Bangladeshfactory that burned in December 2010,killing 29 workers, many leaping totheir deaths from the upper floors of thebuilding because locked stairway doorsprevented their escape.
ILRF is calling on Gap to adopt afire safety program which would helpsave workers’ lives in Bangladesh. Theorganization planned to go to the Gapstore Sunday to deliver a message to thestore mana
Fendi chairman and chief executiveofficer Pietro Beccari called the projectan example of the Roman firm’s “three-dimensional approach to makingbeautiful things.”
Carla Fendi was to join DAMACexecutives at a press conference todayat the Dubai International FinancialCenter to unveil the project. DAMAC hascompleted 37 buildings to date, spanningalmost 8,000 residential units, with 65other buildings in development acrossthe Middle East and North Africa.
— MILES SOCHA
TAKE FIVE: For the fifth part of Miu Miu’sTales short series, the Italian brandtapped award-winning director AvaDuVernay to shoot “The Door,” whichfeatures Gabrielle Union, Alfre Woodard,Emayatzy Corinealdi, Adepero Oduye andsinger-songwriter Goapele.The film — a little over nine minutesin length— focuses on an actual door onthe modernist house of a main character(Union) who just went through a break-up. Friends come through that door toconsole her and, with their support, sheeventually overcomes her sadness andis able to move on. “The door in the film
when asked if she preferred the frontrow. “I was so blessed and grateful. It wasa wonderful, meaningful moment for melast season to walk for Wang. I had neverwalked for him so it meant a lot. The fact[was] that he was supporting me throughsomething that was [a] really trying time.Now I want to support him because he’sso wonderful and he’s got such incrediblethings happening.…It showed a strengththat I needed.”
Across the runway from Ross in thesmoky space, other front-row attendeesincluded Zoë Kravitz, Alison Mosshart andA$AP Rocky, who mugged for the cameraswith Terry Richardson — MATTHEW LYNCH
BACK TO BLACK: “London is veryunusual…I think you can do knee-length, midlength or long,” said WilliamBanks-Blaney, founder of William Vintage,of the local red-carpet etiquette aheadof the BAFTAs. “There’s a greater senseof individuality. I think you can be abit different and be yourself a little bitmore.” Banks-Blaney, whose Londonstore specializes in vintage couture, andGillian Anderson cohosted a pre-BAFTAdinner on Friday night in collaborationwith Adler Jewellers. The BAFTAs —Britain’s answer to the Academy Awards— took place on Sunday night. Guestsincluded Laura Carmichael, Lily Cooper, LaraBohinc, Patrick Grant and Johanna Johnston.Vintage decadence was th
popped around her. It was the firstfashion week appearance for Clarke,who is in rehearsals for “Breakfast atTiffany’s” on Broadway and soundedsmitten with New York, blizzard and all.“New York as a city is just phenomenaland I’ve fallen head over heels in lovewith it,” she said. “I braved the heels.”Elsewhere in the front row, theDanish singer Oh Land took some timeto dispel a Nordic winter weatherstereotype. “Everybody suspects thatwhen you’re from Denmark you will belike ‘all good.’ But yeah it’s way too coldfor me,” she laughed. “I want to go to thesouth. There’s not a lot of viking in me.”
19
WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013
FASHIONSCOOPS Emilia Clarke
PHOTOBYSTEVEEICHNER
colorful and intriguing clothes.
More controlled in volume
compared to her spring show,
the suits and loose top-and-
pants combos looked great in
head-to-toe prints. Relaxed
candy-colored angora sweaters
were scrumptious and a lovely
mother-of-pearl pattern was
worked in various tones on
a coat, dress and matching
blouse and skirt.
Tibi: Sportswear, Nineties
utilitarian, synthetic versus
natural fabrics. Those were
just a few of the descriptors
designer Amy Smilovic
called out backstage when
describing her latest collection.
Sportswear is what Tibi does
best. Forget matchy-matchy —
these were great pieces that
a girl can put together in any
number of ways, from dresses
worn over pants to a knit dickie
with a T-shirt.
Working in a predominantly
black-and-white palette with
pops of brights, Smilovic’s
outerwear looked particularly
good in sculpted shapes,
some with removable quilted
vests and shearling linings
for multiseasonal wear. The
designer also continued
her recent love affair with
Neoprene, using it for hoodies
and boxy T-shirts that paired
well with slouchy pants
and oversize leather shorts.
Smilovic’s key print was
comprised of abstract dots but
most of the pattern was created
with contrasting patches of
color or materials like leather
and ponyskin that gave a
graphic, textured look.
DKNY: Having just launched a
collaboration with Opening
Ceremony featuring reissues
of early Nineties DKNY hits,
Donna Karan returned to
that period for fall, but this
time through a hip-hop lens.
Terrific oversize parkas and
sweatshirts were featured, as
well as fun animal prints that
brought to mind the work of
Stephen Sprouse. Karan also
added large rounded shoul-
ders to her silhouettes,
particularly on
structured mini-
dresses and tops
that combined
multiple fab-
rics including
Neoprene. But
the few evening
looks here —
long, flowing dress-
es over skinny pants
— felt out of synch with
the rest of her strong sports-
skirt crocheted in
an ethnic pattern.
Rose was playing
on “a Brothers
Grimm fairy-tale
inspiration” but there
wasn’t a Rapunzel in sight.
Some dresses, like the swirling
Robert Geller: The dark
romanticism of Twenties Berlin
permeated Robert Geller’s
collection, whose plays on
elongated proportions and
artful layering continued
to mature this season. The
designer referenced German
overall styling looked cleaner
and more contemporary. Geller
has created a firmly identifiable
look that is brooding, modern
and emblematic of a cool
constituency in men’s wear.
Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese looked
black, anima
She paired s
leather moto
fun one done
con dresses
all black wer
comfort but
to move from
FALL
NEW YORK 2013
COLLECTIONS
Robert
Geller
6. Tuesday,February12,2013
Lead Article
Milan’s Export Drive by Luisa Zargani
• Exports are saving the Italian more and more. Sales outside of Italy is expected to reach a new high in
2013
• Italian brands are depending on international markets to bring revenue in. The countries that are
bringing most revenue are: Brazil, Russia, India, and China
• Even with the economic crisis and upcoming elections in Europe. Many are still positive about their
sales this upcoming year. Versace group CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris is confident for a double-digit
growth in 2013
Sections
Textile
Ready to Wear
Pop-Up Strategy
Milan Preview
Beauty Beat
Milestone
EVA MENDES
TO DO LINE FOR
NEW YORK CO.
PAGE 4
NEW YORK
WOMAN
WWDTUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY $3.00
POP-UP STRATEGY
Dior In Major Push
Of Raf Simons’ Line
By MILES SOCHA
PARIS — Raf Simons’ first collection for Dior is arriv-
ing at retail this month, accompanied by fanfare on a
global scale.
Dior is orchestrating a series of pop-up shops with
key wholesale partners in the coming weeks, trans-
planting the decor and atmosphere of Simons’ ready-
to-wear show in Paris last September to retailers in-
cluding Joyce in Hong Kong, 10 Corso Como in Milan,
Maxfield in Los Angeles, Isetan in Tokyo, My Boon in
Seoul and I.T. in Beijing.
“This is a new New Look,” declared Dior chief ex-
ecutive Sidney Toledano, referring to the extravagant,
WWD MILESTONES
DENNIS BASSO AT 30. SECTION II
WWD.COM
WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 20138
By ALESSANDRA TURRA
MILAN — Europe’s economic uncertain-
ty didn’t stop the creativity of the high-
end Italian textile firms that presented
innovative products at the 16th edition of
Milano Unica, the three-day textile trade
show that closed here on Friday.
In 2012, the Italian textile industry
posted a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to
8 billion euros, or $10.4 billion at aver-
age exchange rates, compared with 2011.
According to data provided by Italian fash-
ion and textile consortium SMI Sistema
Moda Italia, textile products dropped 3
Branding, innovation and internation-
alization were the key ingredients high-
lighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group
chief executive officer Gildo Zegna to
succeed in the current market. The com-
pany, which closed 2012 reporting a 12
percent increase in revenues up to 1.25
billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast sin-
gle-digit growth in 2013.
“The year will be difficult, especially
in the first part, also due to the strong
euro,” Zegna said.
Zegna pointed to the role of silk as one
of the reasons for the brand’s success in
international markets. He said, “Starting
to combine silk with our traditional fi-
Silk,” an inno-
vative denimlike
silk fabric. “The world
of denim is extremely im-
portant and we like the
idea of combining it with
something classic and
traditional like silk,”
Bocchese said. “This…
reflects our current
strategy focused on re-
interpreting silk fabrics,
our core products, in an
Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also
listed the strong euro and its impact
on export pricing, in addition to dif-
ficulties in obtaining bank credit, as
among the problems that could affect
the market in the coming months.
At the fair, Botto Fila, which
generates 70 percent of its rev-
enues outside Italy, presented a
collection focused on comfortable
fabrics, mixing superfine wool with
stretch materials. Patterns ranged
from micro-houndstooth,
soft tartans and thin pin-
stripes to crease-resis-
tant wool fabric.
Technology took
center stage at
Marzotto as well,
which launched
“Scudo,” a line
that features
waterproof and
breathable fab-
rics made of cot-
ton, a cotton-and-
8
Alcantara
M
Innovation Key at Milano Unica
textiles
WWD.COM
WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013
By ALESSANDRA TURRA
N — Europe’s economic uncertain-
dn’t stop the creativity of the high-
talian textile firms that presented
ative products at the 16th edition of
o Unica, the three-day textile trade
that closed here on Friday.
2012, the Italian textile industry
d a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to
ion euros, or $10.4 billion at aver-
xchange rates, compared with 2011.
ding to data provided by Italian fash-
nd textile consortium SMI Sistema
Italia, textile products dropped 3
nt in 2012, even with positive results
pan, Russia, the U.S. and China.
lping to give a positive feeling to ex-
ors, Sir Paul Smith, a regular at the
which this season saw the number of
rs increase 5.5 percent compared
February 2012, kicked off the show
an insightful speech during the inau-
Branding, innovation and internation-
alization were the key ingredients high-
lighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group
chief executive officer Gildo Zegna to
succeed in the current market. The com-
pany, which closed 2012 reporting a 12
percent increase in revenues up to 1.25
billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast sin-
gle-digit growth in 2013.
“The year will be difficult, especially
in the first part, also due to the strong
euro,” Zegna said.
Zegna pointed to the role of silk as one
of the reasons for the brand’s success in
international markets. He said, “Starting
to combine silk with our traditional fi-
bers has been a very smart strategy that
enabled us to enrich summer collections
with products featuring the same luxury
standards of the winter season.”
At Milano Unica, the Biella-based com-
pany presented a new fabric mixing mohair
with silk. This is also available with Cool
Effects technology that reduces the absorp-
Silk,” an inno-
vative denimlike
silk fabric. “The world
of denim is extremely im-
portant and we like the
idea of combining it with
something classic and
traditional like silk,”
Bocchese said. “This…
reflects our current
strategy focused on re-
interpreting silk fabrics,
our core products, in an
unconventional and cre-
ative way.”
Denim also inspired Loro
Piana’s “Lin de Nîmes,” a linen
fabric with a denim effect designed
for men’s and women’s casual pants and
outerwear. In addition, the company in-
troduced men’s lightweight, crease-resis-
Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also
listed the strong euro and its impact
on export pricing, in addition to dif-
ficulties in obtaining bank credit, as
among the problems that could affect
the market in the coming months.
At the fair, Botto Fila, which
generates 70 percent of its rev-
enues outside Italy, presented a
collection focused on comfortable
fabrics, mixing superfine wool with
stretch materials. Patterns ranged
from micro-houndstooth,
soft tartans and thin pin-
stripes to crease-resis-
tant wool fabric.
Technology took
center stage at
Marzotto as well,
which launched
“Scudo,” a line
that features
waterproof and
breathable fab-
rics made of cot-
ton, a cotton-and-
silk blend, stretch
poplin and wool
paired with an exclu-
sive high-tech Japanese
membrane.
Marzotto-owned velvet-
maker Redaelli Velluti launched light-
weight linen corduroy, available in a nat-
Alcantara
M
M
Bocchese
nnovation Key at Milano Unica
extiles
WWD.COM
WWDTUESDAY,FEBRUARY12,2013 8
ByALESSANDRATURRA
MILAN—Europe’seconomicuncertain-
tydidn’tstopthecreativityofthehigh-
endItaliantextilefirmsthatpresented
innovativeproductsatthe16theditionof
MilanoUnica,thethree-daytextiletrade
showthatclosedhereonFriday.
In2012,theItaliantextileindustry
posteda5.1percentdropinrevenuesto
8billioneuros,or$10.4billionataver-
ageexchangerates,comparedwith2011.
AccordingtodataprovidedbyItalianfash-
ionandtextileconsortiumSMISistema
ModaItalia,textileproductsdropped3
percentin2012,evenwithpositiveresults
inJapan,Russia,theU.S.andChina.
Helpingtogiveapositivefeelingtoex-
hibitors,SirPaulSmith,aregularatthe
fair,whichthisseasonsawthenumberof
visitorsincrease5.5percentcompared
withFebruary2012,kickedofftheshow
withaninsightfulspeechduringtheinau-
guralpressconferenceonWednesday.
Smithhighlightedtheimportancefor
fashiondesigners,whomheviewsastoo
shelteredintheir“ivorytowers,”toat-
tendtradeshowsinordertobeinspired
andmeetpeople.Tomeetthechallenges
ofthemarket,theBritishdesignersug-
gestedentrepreneursshould“pushtheir
creativity”and“thinklaterally”tocreate
brandsfocusedon“individuality”and
thathaveaclear“pointofview”anda
“balance”betweenmorecommercialand
fashionableproducts.
Branding,innovationandinternation-
alizationwerethekeyingredientshigh-
lightedbyErmenegildoZegnaGroup
chiefexecutiveofficerGildoZegnato
succeedinthecurrentmarket.Thecom-
pany,whichclosed2012reportinga12
percentincreaseinrevenuesupto1.25
billioneuros,or$1.6billion,forecastsin-
gle-digitgrowthin2013.
“Theyearwillbedifficult,especially
inthefirstpart,alsoduetothestrong
euro,”Zegnasaid.
Zegnapointedtotheroleofsilkasone
ofthereasonsforthebrand’ssuccessin
internationalmarkets.Hesaid,“Starting
tocombinesilkwithourtraditionalfi-
bershasbeenaverysmartstrategythat
enabledustoenrichsummercollections
withproductsfeaturingthesameluxury
standardsofthewinterseason.”
AtMilanoUnica,theBiella-basedcom-
panypresentedanewfabricmixingmohair
withsilk.ThisisalsoavailablewithCool
Effectstechnologythatreducestheabsorp-
tionofsunlight,allowingmentoweardark-
coloredsuitsduringthesummer.
Manyoftheexhibitorsatthetrade
showconfirmedthatsilkisontheup-
swing.Theincreaseddemandforthe
naturalfiberisprobablythereasonfor
theinstabilityofitsprice,whichhassig-
nificantlyriseninthelastfewmonths.
“Duetosilk’shighcost,wehadto
raiseourpricesby5to10percent,”said
Bocchese1908ceoMicheleBocchese.
Inkeepingwiththecompany’sDNA,
theItalianfirmlaunched“DenimLoves
Silk,”aninno-
vativedenimlike
silkfabric.“Theworld
ofdenimisextremelyim-
portantandwelikethe
ideaofcombiningitwith
somethingclassicand
traditionallikesilk,”
Bocchesesaid.“This…
reflectsourcurrent
strategyfocusedonre-
interpretingsilkfabrics,
ourcoreproducts,inan
unconventionalandcre-
ativeway.”
DenimalsoinspiredLoro
Piana’s“LindeNîmes,”alinen
fabricwithadenimeffectdesigned
formen’sandwomen’scasualpantsand
outerwear.Inaddition,thecompanyin-
troducedmen’slightweight,crease-resis-
tantwoolfabric“Accademia,”alongwith
“AquaWool,”amachine-washableknit
woolfabricavailableinpiquéorjersey.
“Ourstrategyisdefinitelynotdrivenby
fear,insteadwearepushingonresearch
creatingnewinnovativeproducts,”said
ceoPierLuigiLoroPiana,whoforecast
thatthecompany,whichsawitstextile
unitclose2012witha5percentincrease,
willkeepgrowingin2013.“I’mconfident
thatboththeU.S.andChinawillperform
prettywellthisyear,despitetherising
valueoftheeuro.”
BottoFilaceoAlbertoBertonialso
listedthestrongeuroanditsimpact
onexportpricing,inadditiontodif-
ficultiesinobtainingbankcredit,as
amongtheproblemsthatcouldaffect
themarketinthecomingmonths.
Atthefair,BottoFila,which
generates70percentofitsrev-
enuesoutsideItaly,presenteda
collectionfocusedoncomfortable
fabrics,mixingsuperfinewoolwith
stretchmaterials.Patternsranged
frommicro-houndstooth,
softtartansandthinpin-
stripestocrease-resis-
tantwoolfabric.
Technologytook
centerstageat
Marzottoaswell,
whichlaunched
“Scudo,”aline
thatfeatures
waterproofand
breathablefab-
ricsmadeofcot-
ton,acotton-and-
silkblend,stretch
poplinandwool
pairedwithanexclu-
sivehigh-techJapanese
membrane.
Marzotto-ownedvelvet-
makerRedaelliVellutilaunchedlight-
weightlinencorduroy,availableinanat-
uralcolorpalette.Silk-makerandprint
specialistRattiusednewtechniquesto
obtainsophisticatedandunusualpat-
terns,showingexploded-likedotsand
Bretonstripes.
Shirt-fabric-makerTestaalsoplayed
withpatterns,includingmoreelegant
stripesandchiccasualchecksprinted
oncottonandcotton-and-linen-blend
fabrics.Thecompanyalsoembracedone
oftheseason’sbiggesttrends—denim
—intheformoftwo-tonehigh-end
clothsforjeans.
8
Alcantara
M
M
Bocchese
InnovationKeyatMilanoUnica
textiles
ByARTHURFRIEDMAN
NATIONALCOTTONCOUNCILecono-
miststolddelegatesatthegroup’sannu-
almeetinginMemphisonSaturdaythat
theoutlookforcottonthisyearwillbe
influencedbyChina’spolicydecisions
andcontinuedcompetitionfromman-
madefibers.
GaryAdams,NCC’svicepresidentof
economicsandpolicyanalysis,saidrecent
dataonfibermarketsharedemonstrates
themanychallengesfromsyntheticfibers.
“Measuredonthebasisofpounds
ofcottonfiber,the2012U.S.retailcot-
tonmarket[about17millionbales]fell
tothelowestlevelsince1996,amida
fourthconsecutiveyearofdeclining
marketshare,”Adamssaid.
Continuedgrowthinmilluseisbeing
supportedbytherelativelystableprice
patternofrecentmonths,morecompeti-
tivepriceswhencomparedwithpolyes-
ter,andmorefavorablespreadsbetween
yarnvaluesandfiberprices,henoted.
China’scurrentpolicyisanotherfac-
torlendingsupporttomilluseinother
countries.Bypurchasingitsdomes-
ticproductionatprices40to50cents
aboveworldprices,Chinaisensuring
thatitsinternalpricesarewellabove
worldpricesandcausingitscottonspin-
ningtobeuncompetitive,Adamsnoted.
FabricmanufacturersinChinaarein-
creasinglylookingtofilltheiryarnde-
mandwithimportedproduct.
China’spolicy,whilesupportingpric-
esreceivedbyfarmers,actsasataxon
textilemillsandhasfurtheredtheshift
CottonOutlookCloudedbyChina Runbypeople
notformulas.
While not putting the spotlight on politics, it
“can’t be overlooked,” said Massimo Ferretti,
executive chairman of Aeffe SpA, which con-
trols the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini
brands and produces and distributes collections
for Cacharel and Cédric Charlier. “We can survive
with bad political management, but with a correct
one, we can do better.”Ferretti has been increasingly internationaliz-
ing and rejuvenating the group, which posted rev-
enues of 254 million euros, or $325.1 million at av-
erage exchange, last year, with a 14 percent jump
in the last quarter of 2012. “The year did not start
well but ended on a positive note, with s
make us hope for the resDurin
with the previous year. Asia-Pacific continued to
be the Florence-based group’s core market, but
chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo said all geograph-
ic areas “responded well” to the brand.
“Historically, in moments of crisis, we grow
more,” he said, citing the timeless nature of the
product as one of the drivers.
The company, which successfully went public
two years ago, plans to further expand around the
world in 2013.“There are new and important potential a
for business,” he said.Asked aboutF
WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013
20
MILAN PREVIEW
Exports a BoonFor Italy
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By A
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Versace’s store inManhattan’s SoHo.
FOR MILANSCENE, SEE
WWD.com/eye.
{Continued from page one}
7. Wednesday,February13,2013
Lead Article
Kors Looking to Grow With Retail, E-Commerce by Vicki M. Young
• In addition to their ongoing conversion of department store doors to shops-in-shop. Kors plan bring in North
American e-commerce business business in February 2014 so it can create an omnichannel experience for
customers, whether in-store or online
• Kors is developing new products to add to their line. Over the holiday season, the drivers of sales was small
leather goods and handbags. Also, showing performance was the company’s new jewelry business. Which could
eventually be one of the biggest revenue generator for the brand nationally and internationally
• The company said it entered into a joint venture agree- ment with Exclusive Brands International to create
MK Panama Holdings, which will enable Kors to expand its re- tail and wholesale presence in Central and
South America, as well as the Caribbean
Sections
Sports
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WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013
SECTION II
WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW
12
Labels on the
rise at Emerging
Designer
Showcase.
Yigal Azrouël
ALEXANDER WANG
Alexander Wang embraced the luxuriant tex-
tures and cozy feel of fuzzy fabrics, from rich knits to
mohair to fur, to express his message in his Fall 2013
collection. Coupled with the softening of his trademark
angular quality, the feel was modern and indulgent.
A downtown edge came in the form of ribbed knit caps
and oversized fur mittens.
Grey overwhelmingly drove the line-up, though some
touches of rust, and white and black were peppered
into the mix. He also favored lowered waistlines and
crisscross details for a chic sophistication.
When it came to fur, pony took a front-and-center
spot for its unparalleled reflective properties, whereas
kidskin fur and lamb helped Mr. Wang develop and
define his shapes.
HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA
The classic Hervé Léger bandage dress is, of course,
on the menu for Fall 2013—but in his show notes,
Max Azria states that he draws inspiration from the
works of several modern French artists. Unexpected
floral and fauna references invoke the energy of the
whimsical surrealist work he admires.
This collection was darker and more discreet in
mood from last year, and it delivered an intricate
JASON WU
Thanks to that stunning inaugural gown, 2013 looks
to be another great year for Jason Wu. His Fall 2013
collection is a triumphal ode to femininity.
Mr. Wu is becoming more comfortable with himself
and isn’t afraid to experiment. It seems he could be
revealing a new sexiness that will somewhat redefine
his brand image. Glamorous, yet easy to wear, this
collection energized and expanded Wu’s established
aesthetic with striking, fun, and flirty looks.
This time around Wu took chic American sports-
wear styles and integrated them with a few updated
street-chic pieces for a new vision of sophistication.
Combining a black exotic skin jacket with a soft
white skirt, or a fur-trimmed leather vest with a crisp
buttoned-up white shirt may not raise an eyebrow. Yet
when the juxtaposition transcends from day to evening,
the looks become fresh and fun.
JEN KAO
Jen Kao’s show felt a bit like Paris circa 1982.
The vibe was young, and the delivery was impactful.
Aside from great leatherwork, Ms. Kao introduced
a brick pattern patchwork with geometric offshoots in
black and indigo blues. She interspersed the pattern
throughout, pairing it with leather, vinyl, denim,
SON JUNG WAN
Son Jung Wan’s Fall 2013 collection was an
interesting medley that comfortably bridged Korean
propriety with Western sartorial largesse. The
collection—a presentation of unorthodox bipolarity
influenced by the Russian modernist art movement and
the opulence of great Russian dwellings—read surpris-
ingly modern.
Blunt cuts and proportions were tapered with softer
colors and luxe materials. Where harsher textiles
dominated a look, more intricate treatments fostered
sophistication.
Her furs were as varied as her collection. She used fox,
mink, Rex rabbit and lippi cat with equal confidence,
creating full or partial sleeves, epaulettes, wrapped
collars and unisex ringed scarves. Her oversized gold
sequin embroidered fox coat stole the show.
YIGAL AZROUËL
Yigal Azrouël favors looks that enhance the female
silhouette. He uses small knits to swath torsos, belts
and peplums to zone in on the midsection, stovepipe or
PJ style trousers to elongate legs. Mr. Azrouël also likes
to wrap his girls in chunky sweaters and coats.
With his Fall 2013 collection, he opted for an
intricate, tailored fit, even adding a bustier or two to
ADVERTISEMENT
Snow may have overtaken the Eastern Seaboard,
but it didn’t dampen New York Fashion Week at all.
As they say, the show must go-on. Designers and
show-goers marched on with unaltered enthusiasm
as innovation and fresh, new creative interpretations
expanded the fashion vocabulary.
THE
RUNWAY
REPORT
Hervé Léger by Max Azria
Son Jung Wan
Jen Kao
NEW YORK // FEBRUARY 13, 2013
Alexander Wang Jason Wu
ADVERTISEMENT
THE
R
RSon Jung Wan
NEW
Alexander Wang Jason Wu
8. Thursday,February14,2013
Lead Article
London Wants More Than a Fashion Moment by Samantha Conti
• Want to start up British luxury brands, no longer want to be a stopover for Milan, Paris, and New York
• London wants to reach for global consumers and push for British designers. Main goal is to put British
designers on the map. According to the British Fashion Council, the number of major buyers from major U.S.
stores will attend. The list includes Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf
Goodman and Bloomingdale’s
• Prime Minister David Cameron wants to “reindustrialize” the fashion industry in Britain. He wants to see more
high end goods manufactured in Britain
Sections
Menswear
Man of the Week
Pushing for Performance
Fashion Scoops
WWD Digital Forum
WWD.COM
4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2013
She stressed that fashion is for
life — not just four weeks a year.
“The British fashion industry
operates 365 days a year across
the world, and we intend to
capitalize on its creativity,” she
said. “We are at a crucial tipping
point thanks to a perfect storm
of talent working both here and
abroad. This talent has con-
sistently been the calling card
of British designers, and with
the unprecedented reach to a
global consumer — thanks to
the Internet — this is driving de-
mand, and therefore sales, glob-
ally for both British designer
brands and for the global labels
of which they are at the helm.”
She’s been in the job only
since Jan. 1, but Massenet has
already helped to attract private
sector experts — from the digi-
tal, tech, investment and retail
worlds — who are ready to con-
tribute their time and talent to
the BFC. In the coming weeks,
the BFC will reveal that a big-
name player from the digital
world will begin a collaboration
with them — boosting British
fashion’s online presence.
This season, according to the
BFC, the number of major buy-
ers in attendance will be up 18
percent year-on-year,
while a large number of
U.S. stores will attend.
The list includes Neiman
Marcus, Saks Fifth
Avenue, Barneys New
York, Bergdorf Goodman
and Bloomingdale’s.
Earlier this year, for
the first time, Prime
Minister David Cameron
threw his weight behind
the industry, pumping
up industry figures dur-
ing a speech at Number
10 Downing Street. The
speech and cocktail
kicked off the January
edition of London
Collections: Men, the
new stand-alone fashion
showcase for men’s wear
launched by the BFC
last year.
“Fashion is not just
some sort of accessory,
you’re not an add-on,”
he told industry figures
including Ford, Tommy
Hilfiger, Richard James
and Jonathan Saunders.
The ultraenthusiastic
Cameron also told his
audience that he wants
to see more high-end
goods manufactured in
Britain as part an overall
strategy to “reindustrialize” the
country. “You have my 100 per-
cent support, so just go for it!”
Cameron was taking a
cue from his wife, Samantha
Cameron, who has been a BFC
ambassador since 2010, and
who has been hosting her own
cocktail parties at Number 10,
together with the BFC. The
next one will take place Friday
night, with designers, buy-
ers and press in attendance.
Samantha Cameron knows the
fashion crowd well since she re-
mains creative consultant to the
British luxury brand Smythson
in addition to her duties as
Britain’s First Lady.
True, London fashion has
witnessed golden moments be-
fore, most recently during the
mid-Nineties when designers
such as Alexander McQueen,
Hussein Chalayan, Antonio
Berardi, Stella McCartney,
Julien Macdonald and Matthew
Williamson rose to prominence.
But those designers eventually
quit London and decamped to
Paris, Milan or New York —
where the money, buyers and in-
ternational press were. London
gradually faded again into its
perennial role: an interesting
stopover on the calendar if there
was time to see the latest crop of
designers trained by the city’s
famed fashion schools, and to
visit the innovative retail con-
cepts that seemed to spring up
all over the city like mushrooms.
This time around, designers
are increasingly staying put in
a town that is attracting more
money, international attention
and more major names than
ever before thanks in large part
to the groundwork laid down by
the BFC over the past few years.
Ford has said his decision to
show both his men’s and women’s
collections in London was a nat-
ural one. “I’ve had a house here
since 1997, my design studio is
here and I love London. In many
ways it’s my home. A lot of [my
decision] was personal,” he said.
In addition, by the end of this
year, Ford will have 93 stand-
alone stores and shops-in-shop,
including an 8,000-square-foot
unit on Sloane Street due to open
in the second half. “So we need to
be doing a proper women’s wear
show. We’re committed to London
for the near term, and as long as
we can attract the press we need,
we’ll stay here. Ultimately, that
will be the test,” he said.
Scott, who in past seasons
has shown and presented in
New York and Paris, said she
always goes to the beat of her
own drummer when it comes to
picking a city.
“I really wanted to show in
London this time. It’s where I
create, the team is here, and it
feels like the right time, espe-
cially as we build and expand
the business in Europe. The city
itself is full of excitement and is
far more important internation-
ally than people give it credit
for,” she said, adding that she
does her print and fabric devel-
opment, embroidery work and
tailoring in the U.K.
Even London Fashion Week
veterans are getting renewed at-
tention of late, especially on the
financial front.
Over the past six months —
and well before Kane’s deal with
PPR — two London Fashion
Week fixtures secured funding
for their labels with an eye to
further international expansion.
In September Amanda
Wakeley, the brand known for its
bridal collections, long silk dress-
es, coats and suits favored by the
Duchess of Cambridge, secured
“significant” financial invest-
ment from private equity firm
AGC Equity Partners, following
the restructuring of the business.
The funds are being used to
develop the company as a luxu-
ry lifestyle brand. Luxury goods
management veteran Sagra
Maceira de Rosen is working
with Wakeley, who launched the
label in 1990, and who serves as
creative director.
In August, Mayhoola for
Investments took a minority
stake in Anya Hindmarch in a
deal valuing the business at 70
million pounds, or $110 million.
Mayhoola, a vehicle backed by
a private investor group from
the Qatari monarchy, is the
same company that acquired
Valentino Fashion Group in July.
Over the next four years
Hindmarch, who founded the
company 25 years ago, plans to
upgrade the business, fine-tune
the brand positioning and boost
the geographical reach together
with ceo James McArthur.
4
LONDON PREVIEW
London Set for the Spotlight
By DAVID MOIN
LINDA HEASLEY WILL join Lane
Bryant on Monday as president and chief
executive officer, leaving behind Limited
Stores, where she held the same titles for
the past six years.
Heasley’s challenge will be to further
a strategy already set in motion by Lane
Bryant’s new owner to modernize and
turn around the performance of the $1
billion, 800-unit large-size specialty chain.
“Lane Bryant is a bit of a challenged
business,” acknowledged David Jaffe,
president and ceo of the Ascena Retail
Group Inc., which last spring acquired
the retailer through its $890 million
deal for Charming Shoppes Inc. While
Ascena’s total company sales, Internet
included, were up 1 percent on a com-
parable basis in the last quarter, Lane
Bryant was down 9 percent.
“We purchased Charming Shoppes to
get to Lane Bryant. It’s where we see the
potential. It’s an iconic, 100-year-old busi-
ness,” said Jaffe. “There have been some
changes of strategy over the last 10 years
at Lane Bryant,” hurting the performance
and perception of the business. “Now
we are trying to build a consistent look
and brand that customers will feel good
about. We believe these customers should
be afforded the same fashion choices and
the same opportunities to feel good about
the way she dresses,” Jaffe said.
Heasley’s appointment is expected to
be revealed today. The president and ceo
slot at Lane Bryant has been vacant since
last fall when Brian Woolf retired.
Jaffe listed a host of accomplishment
by Heasley at The Limited, among them
revamping product lines and introduc-
ing new brand positioning and a new
plus-size line, launching e-commerce
and a new store design, and returning
The Limited to sustained profitability
for the first time in 17 years. Earlier in
her career, she held senior-level roles at
Timberland, Limited Brands and CVS.
Since the fall, Ascena’s strategy at
Lane Bryant has been to update the mer-
chandise, marketing and image. There’s
a new logo and fresher colors seen in the
advertising, direct mail and in-store vi-
suals. “The whole idea is to bring Lane
Bryant up to the current modern aesthet-
ic of the customer,” Jaffe said.
The strategy also involves shifting
much of the store base from malls to strip
centers through store openings and relo-
cations. Ascena, with its other divisions
including Dress Barn and Maurices, is
comfortable operating stores in strip
centers and believes they provide the
greatest convenience to customers. At
least 50 new stores are seen opening in
the next three years, and in two weeks,
a 6,000-square-foot Lane Bryant will
open on New York’s 34th Street, between
Seventh and Eighth Avenues. Jaffe said
the site will be the Lane Bryant flagship
and prototype for future stores.
Another opportunity is to grow the on-
line business, where 15 percent of Lane
Bryant’s sales are currently conducted.
That’s a higher percentage than most
retailers, which are generally around 10
percent or less.
FOR MORE
COVERAGE, SEE
WWD.com/
eye.
Heasley to Lane Bryant as CEO
{Continued from page one}
Julien Macdonald on the runway for spring 2012.
Tom
Ford
Alice Temperley’s store in London.
Linda
Heasley
PHOTOBYKYLEERICKSEN
STOREPHOTOBYINDIGO/GETTYIMAGES;FORDBYSTEVEEICHNER;MACDONALDBYGIOVANNIGIANNONI
by DAVID LIPKE
NEW YORK — Lanvin marked the
opening of its new men’s boutique
at 807 Madison Avenue on Tuesday
evening. The crowd, which included
Theophilus London, Monique Péan,
Timo Weiland, Alexis Stoudemire,
Charlotte Sarkozy and Dr. Lisa
Airan, explored the three-level
store, located in a historic town-
house. Two of the floors above the
store are occupied by Lanvin offices.
The 4,200-square-foot store,
which opened to the public last
month, is the first men’s bou-
tique in the U.S. and is situated
a few doors away from an existing
women’s boutique at 815 Madison
Avenue. The store design is a
new concept conceived by Lanvin
designer Alber Elbaz and archi-
tects MR Architecture + Decor.
A similar design is used in newly
opened Chicago, Hong Kong and
Beirut boutiques.
“A man needs to be reassured, to
be heard, to get straight to the point,
and to know in an instant that he is
in a place of expertise. I wanted to
recreate the spirit of an hôtel par-
ticulier where each wall, each piece
of furniture, each detail alludes to
a savoir-faire and discreet luxury
which calls upon the highest quality
materials,” said Elbaz, who was not
present at the opening party.
The first floor houses the runway
collections of men’s designer Lucas
Ossendrijver, with the rear spaces
dedicated to sportswear, accessories
and sneakers. The latter category
has been a key sales driver in men’s,
and this season Lanvin introduced
its first cross-training sneaker.
Tailored clothing, furnishings
and formalwear are housed on
the second floor, including a built-
in wall unit for dress shirts and
an antique vitrine for bow ties,
pinned like butterflies. The third
floor offers a VIP salon and made-
to-measure service, in an elegant
room anchored by an Art Deco
chandelier and the townhouse’s
original fireplace.
Men’s comprises 20 percent of
total U.S. sales in Lanvin stores
and 15 percent in wholesale.
Lanvin now operates seven
stores in the U.S., including the two
New York flagships; dual-gender
stores in Chicago, Las Vegas and
Beverly Hills, and women’s-only
stores in Bal Harbour, Fla., and
Malibu, Calif. A new women’s store
will open in South Coast Plaza in
Costa Mesa, Calif., midyear.
JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE: B+Man of
THE WEEK
The pop star’s
infatuation
with clothes is
reaching new
heights with
the release of
his single “Suit
Tie,” in which
he calls out
Tom Ford in
the video. No
shocker, then,
that he chose
the designer to
dress him for the
awards season,
including
Sunday night’s
Grammys.
Lanvin Men’s Store
Opens on Madison
China Crackdown Could Hit Men’s
by CASEY HALL
SHANGHAI — With incoming
President Xi Jinping repeatedly
flagging a crackdown on corruption
and conspicuous consumption as
top priorities for his government,
China watchers are concerned the
result may be a hit for a men’s mar-
ket traditionally buoyed by the cul-
tural practice of “gift giving.”
A new “frugal working style”
rule on civil servants also official-
ly went into effect last October,
banning those paid from the pub-
lic purse from throwing lavish
banquets, buying expensive cars
and accepting luxurious gifts.
Gift giving and bribery are both
widespread in China, and their
pervasiveness has been some-
thing of a boon for the world’s
top luxury brands — particularly
in regards to the men’s sector,
which has traditionally been the
backbone of China’s luxury mar-
ket. According to research from
brokerage CLSA, men account for
about 55 percent of China’s luxury
goods market, well above the glob-
al average of 40 percent.
Studies from Bain Co. have
indicated that, between 2005 and
2009, the luxury goods market for
men in China grew by 48 percent.
By 2011, sales data at Beijing’s
Sogo Department Store showed
that men contributed 30 percent to
its total sales, yet their individual
expenditure was two to three times
higher than female customers.
Many within China are waiting
to see just how serious the flagged
crackdown will be and how much
impact it will have on gift giving,
with experts divided on the poten-
tial for damage to luxury sales.
“If there is an effective crack-
down on corruption, the gift-
giving culture will be changed in
China,” said He Jiahong, a pro-
fessor at Renmin University and
an expert on corruption. “I think
the corrupt officials will be more
careful, and will find more invis-
ible means for their wealth.”
Flora Sapio, a professor
of Chinese law at the Chinese
University of Hong Kong, said
that while she believes the incom-
ing government is serious about
cracking down on corruption, the
affect on gift giving and a cul-
ture of conspicuous consumption
among China’s political and busi-
ness elite will be minimal.
“Today, gift-giving is a minor
form of corruption. The best corrupt
deals are to be made elsewhere: in
the real estate sector, on the stock
market, through the manipulation
of public-private partnerships, just
to name a few,” Sapio said.
“The display of luxury goods
testifies to the lifestyle of China’s
political-economic elite, their in-
come levels and consumption pat-
terns. None of these is going to
change significantly in the near
future, unless China experiences a
serious economic downturn, which
is highly unlikely,” added Sapio.
Whatever the future impact,
the idea of a crackdown on cor-
ruption has been popular with the
chattering classes, with a number
of high profile “outings” of corrupt
officials by Chinese netizens.
One standout was the case of
“Brother Watch.” The nickname
was bestowed by the Chinese
Internet on a lowly bureaucrat
(with a commensurately lowly sal-
ary) who was photographed wear-
ing a number of expensive, pres-
tige brand watches.
Prestige watches have been a
favored gift for politically, economi-
cally and socially — and sometimes
all three — powerful men in China
and, in recent years, Beijing’s regu-
lar Party Congresses have become
a parade of straight-faced suits
sporting Rolex, Omega, Cartier and
Patek Philippe timepieces.
“The first watches were brought
to China by French missionaries in
the 17th century and were original-
ly a gift to emperors and so on. So
the love affair between watches and
China and the relationship between
men in China and the culture of
gifting have developed in tandem,”
David Sadigh, chief executive of-
ficer of Digital Luxury Group, told
WWD. The group recently released
a report called “World Luxury
Index China: Watches.”
Research from Bain showed
yearly sales of luxury watches
fell 5 percent on Mainland China
in 2012, compared to growth of as
much as 40 percent in 2011, and
statistics from the Federation of
the Swiss Watch Industry show that
Swiss watch exports to Mainland
China dropped 27.5 percent year-
on-year in September.
China’s slowing economy is
obviously one factor at play in the
slowdown of the formerly red-hot
men’s prestige watch market, but
Sadigh points to the corruption
crackdown as another cause.
“The impact of a crackdown on
corruption in China is very impor-
tant and we have already seen this,”
Sadigh said. “I think we have to be
very careful and we don’t know what
will happen, but I think for watches
especially, as far as global brands
are concerned, they should be very
careful with how luxury goods and
these kind of things will be per-
ceived by this government.”
There is an upside for some with-
in with high-end men’s market in
China, with Microsoft Advertising’s
“Luxury Connoisseurs” study find-
ing that more men are buying luxury
goods for themselves than ever.
“If you look at the percentage
of men buying for personal versus
gifts, the majority is personal, even
for men. Of the gift giving, men
do a larger percentage, but over
three-quarters of the men’s market
is still personal buying,” said Adam
Anger, the Greater China region’s
general manager for advertising
and online at Microsoft.
Pierre Xiao Lu, author
of “Luxury China, Market
Opportunities and Potentials” and a
luxury business consultant, said this
shift away from gifting and towards
personal consumption will be a boon
for the men’s personal care seg-
ments, which he predicted will grow
at a “positive double-digit” rate.
Though other segments of the
luxury market traditionally driv-
en by men will perhaps grow at a
slower rate than in recent years,
Lu is quick to emphasize that
there will still be growth.
“For fashion and accessories,
I think they will be stable, but still
growing. The most affected sectors
will be watches and jewelry,
other things — from wine and
spirits, yachts, cars, private jets
— will continue to grow at a sta-
ble rate,” Lu said.
Brands such as Salvatore
Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta
have already invested heavily
in the rising personal consump-
tion of Chinese men on the
lookout for stylish substance
over excess bling by expanding
their product ranges and setting
up specialty gents stores in the
Greater China region.
“I can say that for
Ferragamo, the men’s catego-
ries [in China] are significantly
important,” said Michele Norsa,
ceo of Salvatore Ferragamo. “All
together worldwide, we do ap-
proximately 40 percent in men’s,
and in China it’s 45 percent, so
China is a particularly strong
market for men’s.”
Norsa believes his brand will
be cushioned by the impact of
any softening in the gift giving
market because the belts, ties
and wallets often given as gifts
from Salvatore Ferragamo are
“not so ostentatious. We are not
talking about items that could be
subject to moral judgment.”
In addition, Norsa was con-
fident that, even if there was an
impact on business following
a slowdown in gift giving, the
increase in business from sec-
ond- and third-tier cities, which
are continuing to embrace lux-
ury brands at a rapid pace, will
more than make up for it.
“I was in China recently and I
saw the mood after the political
changes appears to be good, so
we are looking forward to 2013
to being a positive year,” Norsa
said. “The lead up to Chinese
New Year is always a good time
and it’s very visible in Europe
to see significant numbers of
Chinese shopping here. It’s im-
portant to our industry and we
are very committed to Chinese
nationals both within China and
internationally as well.”
Inside the new Lanvin
men’s boutique.
“Ifthereisan
effectivecrackdown
oncorruption,
thegift-giving
culturewillbe
changedinChina.”
— HE JIAHONG,
RENMIN UNIVERSITY
Mannequin makeup works better in moderation.
Long gone are the curly gold locks of his ’N Sync days.
However, he might have to give the flatiron a break and
go for a little more of a natural look.
The perfectly imperfect oversize bow tie is humorous,
but a skinnier model would definitely be cooler.
The silk moire tuxedo jacket shows he’s trying a bit too
hard, but the shawl lapel brings it down a notch.After all,
it IS the Grammys.
A little too precious perhaps, but we’re just splitting
hairs. It’s pretty fabulous.
The jacket fits him well; however, men with
very narrow frames benefit from shorter
silhouettes, and Timberlake would look less
stuffy with a cropped blazer.
The pants fit him perfectly, and the cummerbund is
subtle but nonetheless present.
PHOTOBYSTEVEGRANITZ/WIREIMAGE
The black-and-white loafers take the overall look into
costume territory. Picture it: Cotton Club, 1920, jazz
hands. The only thing missing is the straw bowler.
February 14, 2013
ADVERTISEMENT
Men’sWeekMW10 WWD THURSDAY,FEBRUARY14,2013
LanvinMen’sStore
ChinaCrackdownCouldHitMen’s
byCASEYHALL
SHANGHAI — With incoming
President Xi Jinping repeatedly
flaggingacrackdownoncorruption
and conspicuous consumption as
top priorities for his government,
China watchers are concerned the
resultmaybeahitforamen’smar-
ket traditionally buoyed by the cul-
turalpracticeof“giftgiving.”
A new “frugal working style”
rule on civil servants also official-
ly went into effect last October,
banning those paid from the pub-
lic purse from throwing lavish
banquets, buying expensive cars
and accepting luxurious gifts.
Giftgivingandbriberyareboth
favoredgiftforpolitically,economi-
callyandsocially—andsometimes
all three — powerful men in China
and,inrecentyears,Beijing’sregu-
lar Party Congresses have become
a parade of straight-faced suits
sportingRolex,Omega,Cartierand
PatekPhilippetimepieces.
“The first watches were brought
to China by French missionaries in
the17thcenturyandwereoriginal-
ly a gift to emperors and so on. So
theloveaffairbetweenwatchesand
Chinaandtherelationshipbetween
men in China and the culture of
gifting have developed in tandem,”
David Sadigh, chief executive of-
ficer of Digital Luxury Group, told
WWD. The group recently released
will be watches and jewelry,
other things — from wine and
spirits, yachts, cars, private jets
—willcontinuetogrowatasta-
blerate,”Lusaid.
Brands such as Salvatore
Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta
have already invested heavily
intherisingpersonalconsump-
tion of Chinese men on the
lookout for stylish substance
over excess bling by expanding
theirproductrangesandsetting
up specialty gents stores in the
GreaterChinaregion.
“I can say that for
Ferragamo, the men’s catego-
ries [in China] are significantly
important,”saidMicheleNorsa,
InsidethenewLanvin
men’sboutique.
10. • Short tuxedo suit, a feathered chubby jacket
and leopard prints that harkened back to the
famous disco’s banquettes
• The accessories picked up on the playful motifs
via enamel charms on necklaces and pins and a
black satin sandal with a tuxedo “collar” at the
ankle
• Even a pair of sunglasses formed an open pair
of lips in homage to the disco era
• It was all about the eighties at Kate Spade
New York's Fall 2013 presentation. It looked like
a set for Sex and the City reboot The Carrie
Diaries, which takes place in 1984
• Taxi-inspired heels, sparkly lip sunglasses, and
a sweatshirt featuring a sprinkle donut…hot pink
ruled, and old-school taxicabs served as props
• Kate Spade New York is fashion with a quirk
—and spun it into a full-blown world of glamour
with a sense of humor
• Kate Spade’s 80s inspiration shown through
the use of bright color and patterns
• Clever use of accessories, with simple suit
outfits, collar ankle shoes, lips sunglasses, and
bright yellow “taxi” clutch grabs the attention
• Bold use of colors, even with solid colors
Kate Spade is still able to make the distinctive
contrast. Kate Spade still has ways to make
the outfit stands out
Friday, February 8, 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
11. Friday, February 8, 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• There were party frocks in pop colors, easy
day pieces like ripped denim and quilted
leather
• Some fun rounded-shoulder tops that winked
at the space suits she had in mind when
designing this collection
• Her girl is a rock ’n’ roll tomboy at heart…
bomber jacket-track pant combo in leather and
burnout plaid
• Layers of silky plaid, distressed denim, and
quilted leather created a sexy tomboy vibe—
particularly when paired with some of the
holographic pointy heels and handbags
• The clear standout, however, was outerwear
• The finale look, a persimmon-colored sheath
with sculpted shoulders worn by Ruby
Aldridge, also earned high marks and seemed
like a directional step forward
• Feminine tomboy looks, subtle reference of
her “space” inspiration blended with a futuristic
look
• Minkoff used a lot of leather;, great use of
different fabrics on same piece, such as leather
sleeves with knits
• Strong outerwear that has a lot of character
12. Friday, February 8, 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Miller's imagination has a sartorial range from
band jackets to riffs on tuxedo dressing
• Raiding her boyfriend’s closet can afford a girl
a pretty good wardrobe — if she pilfers
selectively and adds her own sexy touches
• Commercial against cool quite well…
assortment of knits and pretty florals, which
added a touch of softness to the mostly mannish
fare
• A leather-trimmed tuxedo jacket and
motorcycle jacket with a front panel of ponyskin
were both sharply done
• V-neck black cocktail dress of layered georgette
was a flat-out winner
• Miller made fine use of the same print in a soft
silk gown with trench coat lapels
…terrific lean suit of patchwork denim and black
jacquard
• Miller incorporated many suit jackets in her
Fall collection, giving it a more masculine
look
• Beautiful patterns that are made into a
trench coat as well as a well tailored dress
• City girl with a tom boy look added with
twist of sass
13. Monday, February 11 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Clothes radiated Karan’s sexy, body-centric
allure that has become increasingly artful over
the years
• Time and again she draped, twisted and
slashed her beloved jerseys to perfection in
fabulous dresses
• Donna also spliced wool and sheer jerseys
into gowns, sometimes adding a high-drama
cape or shearling cowl
• Capes are trending big-time, and Donna did all
kinds: asymmetrical and sweeping in jersey, built
into a jacket in double-face neoprene, to the floor
for evening
• Opaque hosiery was another Karan innovation
that we take for granted. Wrap skirts that flashed a
hint of thigh were a reminder that she did them
first
• The designer's trick here was to tap into her
DNA without feeling retro.
• The draping of the fabric were phenomenal,
as well as asymmetrical cuts.
• Model’s hair were all pulled back, giving our
full attention to the clothes
• Striking round shoulder jackets gave the
whole look a more tough look
14. Monday, February 11 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Polished side of the retro genre with simple,
covered-up dresses and tailored separates that
highlighted the responsible side…She’s grown-
up and gotten a job
• Ruddy color palette — shown here in shades
of orange, red and blue as well as some graphic,
colorfully clashing prints
• Jacobs’ men was an element of Jacobs grunge
in a plaid car coat and rumpled sweater,
countered by some shots of fancy, like a vivid
red overcoat and crocodile embossed belts
• Marc by Marc Jacobs was always Marc's
vehicle for a kind of low-key collegiate funk,
and on that level, it's usually been a sterling
success
• A bit more wattage in the hair and makeup, a
bit more sex in the clothes
• If the prints, proportions, and satiny sheen
echoed Roxy Music fans refracting the forties
through a seventies glam lens, that too felt just
about right
• The big blowout hair on models resembled
the 70s retro era
• Jacobs uses darker palette this season, for
example dark red, brown, deep green, and blue
• A lot of high waist skirt that are paired with
collared shirts, resembles professionalism
15. Monday, February 11 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Hints of a forties heroine in mind, Carolina
Herrera designed a collection about glamour
and gumption
• Dresses and gowns with high keyhole
necklines had defined shoulders and teeny belted
waists that highlighted the graceful movement of
the fluid crepe skirts
• Developing her own prints is a source of great
pleasure and pride for Herrera. This time they
were based on flowers, specifically dahlias and
urchins
• Herrera's collections don't often dovetail with
the reigning trends of the season but they're
fully realized enough to create their own
realities
• Victory-roll coif and her wasp-waisted dresses
and full skirts, she was a kind of vixenish moll
• Even with a heavy rain shower, she filled the
Lincoln Center theater venue… required the
full symphonic talents of the London
Contemporary Orchestra
• Herrera’s gowns flowed beautifully, almost
lively looking.
• Middle parted, sleek pulled back with two
twists on each side coordinated with her 40s
theme
• The floral patterns were such a big statement
in Herrera’s Fall 2013 collection
16. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Provided a lovely study on luxurious fabrics,
volume and silhouettes, referencing several
couture concepts
• Main silhouette was the egg shape…layered
constructions of multiple pieces…featuring deep
armholes with low, inset pockets
• Couture touches were also demonstrated via
Japanese influences, namely intricate origami
cuts and a gathered kimono dress with a focus
on volume in the back
• Calling her collection an exploration of
classic dressmaking in sculptural silhouettes…
• Wang can't resist a bit of fur, and her black
fox cape, fastened at the neckline with a
studded leather strap over a jeweled T-shirt
dress, had charm
• Photos don't do justice to the iridescence of
a youthful pink sequined and beaded V-neck
dress
• Multiple looks from the collection
emphasized on the egg shape on the waist
• Patterns were beautiful. Especially the
yellow on purple
• The mix of different pattern silhouettes gave
black a fun exciting look
17. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Burch took her moody colors from Klimt’s
work and focused on the blending of textures
and patterns
• Find a full wardrobe’s wealth of clothes, from
sexy sheaths to dresses with waisted bodices
• Pretty, interesting and wearable, three
characteristics that added up to one very smart
collection
• Gustav Klimt painted some of the most
rapturous works… inspired that was suffused
with a gilded sense of romance
• Jewelry, accessories, and eyewear are rapidly
becoming cornerstones of her empire, and the
ornateness of her inspirations gave her ample
excuse to pile them on
• Art Nouveau florals, scarab prints, and
dragonfly motifs stoked that fairy-tale flame
• Burch played with color, patterns, and
textures
• Accessories were a breath of fresh air. From
beetle necklace, wing shape sunglasses to
shoes in resemblance of bugs.
• There were no boring outfits, each look has
something interesting added to it
18. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• While the collection was outerwear-heavy,
there were some lady-killer dresses in splash-art
prints and versions in leather and wool combos
• Designer continued on that same aesthetic,
but sprinkled military references throughout
• Demonstrated that Tahari has a recharged
engine as he looks to build on his creative and
commercial power base
• Set out to evoke a Siberian winter covering an
urban landscape with his Fall presentation, which
featured architectural fabric installations by Gisela
Stromeyer that gave the impression of sweeping
glaciers and arctic tundra
• The set enhanced the collection, which brimmed
with impressive outerwear
• Detectable military influence in menswear items
like double-breasted peacoat and leather cargo
jackets, which were paired with slim, tailored
trousers
• Great outerwear collection, especially
the neckline on the women coats. The
funnel neck shape and adds volume.
• Tahari’s menswear looks are
sophisticated and well polished.
• The collection is a military with a twist
of futuristic look
19. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Gilles Mendel worked luxe furs, trapunto-
stitched leathers and liquid satin and velvet
panne gowns into his fall lineup
• Citing German artist Gerhard Richter as an
inspiration, Mendel worked in an earthy
palette of burgundy, copper and moss with
pops of red and royal blue
• The cozy mink intarsia pullovers and black
grooved mink coat, shown belted and over a
blouse with a high white ermine collar, looked
best
• There's no point going to a J. Mendel show if
you're queasy about fur
• He really outdid himself with his laser-cut
minks, in particular the trim black coat sliced in
a pattern so subtle, it had to be touched to be
believed
• There was a recurring biker theme here,
which Mendel cannily translated for his super-
upscale clientele
• Mendel known for his fur creation, he did not
disappoint this year. Beautifully made fur coats,
you can already know what it feels like just by
looking
• Even when it is not a fur piece, Mendel still
finds ways to incorporate fur. For example,
accessories and fur cuffs that goes with gowns
• Mendel also created gorgeous drape gowns in
the Fall collection
20. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• She loved the graphic aesthetic of Godard’s
films — particularly his set designs, the use of red
and blue, black and white and even his fonts
• Over the top as this Sui collection was, it was
colorful and playful, with some fun pieces that
are sure to please
• Faux fur jackets and coats added volume and
texture to some of the Sixties-esque striped and
printed frocks
• Sui is probably contemporary fashion's most
lovable archaeologist, but simple historicism can
turn on a dime into a leaden nostalgia-fest
• Mash a pell-mell overload of colors, textures,
patterns, and accessories into a coherent whole
• Skirt, waistcoat, and jacket that were actually a
trompe l'oeil one-piece that zipped up the back, just
like in the olden days when the all-in-one was a cost-
effective fashion solution for cash-strapped go-girls
• Vibrant, primary colors were used a lot in
her collection. Big contrast of colors.
• Patterns and textures were also a big
theme. As we can see the patterns on
model matches the socks.
• Sui portrayed quirky, fun, and
youthfulness through this collection
21. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• Merger of rampant athleticism and luxury
coats on Kors’ fall runway
• He binged on the sporty and the polished
with blaring colors, cobalt blue and
“taxicab” yellow shown against slick black in
exaggerated proportions that varied
between performance and ladylike
• Kors toughened up his men’s wear with
camo prints and black leather
• Many of the tailored pieces seemed built for
speed with rounded shoulders and
aerodynamic double-face construction…
Goggles added to that feeling
• Plenty of urban warriors at the show would
kill for his charcoal gray wool melton overcoat
and the pantsuit shown underneath it
• Kors' big idea for after dark, a fitted
minidress with a peplum overskirt that
extended all the way to the floor in back
• The goggles added more futuristic, matrix
look
• Kors mostly used yellow, blue, and black.
Blue and Yellow pops up a lot in contrast to
black
• Camouflage added more of a masculine
look. It is also a smart idea to use it on fur
coats.
22. Thursday, February 14 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• Though most were black or navy, Lauren
lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory toppe
• Lauren broke up the mannish influence
with lovely fluid dresses in deep-toned velvets
— wine, blue, purple
• Cases in point: a divine beaded jersey with
plunging neckline and a midnight column
with jeweled yoke that channeled one of
Lauren’s favorite ladies, Audrey Hepburn
• Lauren took us on a romantic voyage with
naval-inspired pieces, vaguely Russian-feeling
velvets and tapestry embroideries, and dramatic
eveningwear
• Extending the sailor theme into evening, a
fitted fisherman sweater and to-the-floor tiered
black skirt in taffeta and organza—a modern
mix of day and night
• Closed with a group of jewel-tone shirred
taffeta gowns made all the more grand by the
fur hats the models wore
• Hint of Russian influence when fur hats
were worn with the gowns in the end
• There were also sailor influences; subtle
bows around the neck, marine symbol on a
long dress
• Many high waist trousers; beautifully
tailored pieces
23. Thursday, February 14 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• Roy took ornate details from 17th- and
18th-century art and applied them to the
clothes in a variety of ways
• Some of it looked rich, but at times Roy
could have used a little restraint
• White knit sweater shown with a chic
paisley like jacquard pencil skirt, and a
chevron and embroidered bomber jacket
— were her best
• Digital runway show rather than a formal
presentation
• A chambord-colored bomber jacket with
spiky beads at the shoulders and metallic
jacquard panels, which was paired with a
brocade velour pencil skirt, illustrated the mix
of materials here
• There were a few eclectic ensembles that felt
a bit too busy, but those could usually be
broken down into their individual pieces,
which were very wearable for the most part
• The patterns – damask design
somewhat reflected a French royalty
look
• Roy uses statement belts in her darker
color pieces
• Each piece is very wearable in a daily
life
24. Thursday, February 14 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• Perhaps the most overtly glamorous
collection Jacobs has ever done
• First allowing the audience to see
everything only in blacks, grays and an
otherworldly sepia…The light then changed
to something resembling normal, revealing a
gorgeous palette of neutrals and soft colors
• Jacobs opted for traditional materials of the
most luxe sort: double-faced cashmeres and
alpacas; refined silks ample fur — beaver, fox,
mink
• Cable-knit sweaters, tailored blazers and
vests, silk pajamas, fox chubbies, scads of high-
waisted briefs—all familiar from Jacobs' oeuvre
• In a New York season strong on real-life
clothes, the straightforwardness of that
approach resonated
• There were terrific coats here for days, as
well as neat little office-bound sweater and
pencil skirt sets. For after-dark, Jacobs layered
on those sequins
• Jacobs did not shy away from furs
this season. Pairing it with sequence
dresses, and as a coat
• Jacobs also used softer colors –
blues, deep green, and burgandy
• The fur scarfs were unique, they
looked like real animal wrapped
around the models
32. • Burch’s Fall 2013 collection showed
inspiration from the 20s, 30s, 40s , not
only was it shown in clothes, but also see a
strong influence on the accessories.
Clutches, shoulder bags, and sunglasses
all reflected the vintage look
• The collection did not shy away from
bold use of prints. From Art Nouveau
florals, scarab prints, to dragonfly motifs
• Great thing about Burch’s collection is
that it is both wearable for professional
occasions and evening events. The styles
are chic and flattering to almost all body
types
• Karan want back to her own first success – The Seven
Sensations of the mid-eighties
• Black stretch jersey with sheer inset at the waist, topped by a
matching stretch wrap hugs the body beautifully. Also, the
asymmetrical drape from one should to another and the way it
flows as model walks was stunning
• Karan focused on black and brown mostly throughout the
collection. Which gave it an easier transition from day to night
• Herrera’s models were flawlessly groomed, with their hair
twisted into 1940s chignon rolls. It adds on a more cinematic
quality to the whole collection
• Big floral patterns are key in Herrera’s Fall 2013 collection.
Dahlias and urchins prints on graceful movement gowns
• After seeing so much fur on models, it is refreshing to see how
Herrera use fur in her collection. I find it very interesting how she
added fur on the sides of the pocket