1. Jonathan Cameron
U1457383
Comparative Case Study
TDF1129

2. Contents
Front Cover - Page 1
Contents - Page 2
Introduction - Page 3
Exploratory Research - H&M - Page 4
Exploratory Research - Timberland - Page 5
Price -Page 6
Place - Page 7
Promotion - Page 8
Product - Page 9
H&M SWOT Analysis - Page 10
Timberland SWOT Analysis - Page 11
References - Page 12

3. Introduction
Sustainability in Fashion
Sustainabilty in fashion is becoming a bigger and
much more complex issue. Black, S, (2011. p.14)
writes that “Clothing sales have increased by 60
percent in the past decade. We now consume one
third more clothig than even four years ago”.
The rapid increase in the consumptin of clothing
means that companies should now start to look at
their business operations to see how far they are
able to clean up their production and retail activi-
ties in order for the clothing market to become gen-
tler on the environment.
Black, S, (2011. p.14) asks some pertinent ques-
tions, such as:
• “How can consumers make a differene?”
• “What ecologically sound choices are available
in fabrics?”
• “How can fashion become more environmental-
ly and ethically sound?”
This report hopes to address these questions by
looking at two currently sustainable fashion retail-
ers and highlighting their practises through a com-
parative case study.
H&M
The first Hennes store opened in 1947 in Vasteras,
Sweden, exclusively selling Women’s clothing. In
1968, the founder; Eric Persson, bought Mauritz
Widforss, a hunting and fishing equipment store.
This kickstarted the sales in Men’s and Children’s
apparel and also marks the time of the brand name
changing into Hennes and Mauritz.
In 1976, after expansion across Scandinavia, the
first store outside of the home region opened in
London and the first New York store opened in
2000. By 2004, H&M collaborated with Karl Lager-
feld and has since held many other collaborations
with various designers including Stella McCart-
ney, Jimmy Choo and Versace. Expansion into the
Middle-East via franchise commenced in 2006, ce-
menting Hennes and Mauritz as a global presence.
(Hennes and Mauritz, n.d.)
H&M are an extremely environmentally conscious
retailer and have outlined a number of conscious
actions. These include, increasing the use of more
sustainable materials, using cotton that is only pro-
duced from sustainable sources and using wool
from only certified sources, (Hennes and Mauritz,
n.d.).
Timberland
Timberland was first brought to life in the 1950’s
when Nathan Swartz bought Abingdon Shoe Com-
pany. Swartz started by buying half the company
in 1952 and the remainder in 1955. The compa-
ny, under Swartz’s leadership developed injection
moulding technology in 1965, which allows the
manufacture of boots without the requirement of
stitching the sole to the upper of the boot. This
makes them completely waterproof and was rev-
elutionary.
The Timberland brand was introduced in 1973 and
the company name was changed in 1978.
Having been listed as on of the top 100 countries
to work for by Fortitude magazine for 5 years run-
ning by Fortitude magazine between 1997 and
2002, Timberland continued to grow their socially
respobsible reputation by disclosing all the names
and locatinos of their factories worldwide in their
corporate social responsibility report. In 2006,
Timberland introduced new environmentally
friendlier packaging for all footwear and the brand
was acquired by VF Corporation in 2011.
(Timberland, 2013)
Aims and Objectives
One of the key areas that this case study will look at is how each company uses envonmentally conscious strategies and how they po-
sition themselves within the four areas of the marketing mix. Their eco-friendly vision should infuence how the company operates on a
day to day basis and how they communicate with their customers. A SWOT analysis will then be conducted to highlight the strengths and
weaknesses between the two companies and also see how better they can market and operate going forward.

4. Exploratory Research - H&M
Financial Information
Between December 2013 and November
2014, net sales in the H&M Group increased
by 18% to SEK 151,419 (Swedish Currency).
Profit after tax was SEK 19, 976 (Swedish
currency). This is a 17% increase on the pre-
vious year.
The H&M Group saw strong expansion dur-
ing the year with a total net addition of 379
new stores. The largest expansion markets
were China and the US. At the end of the fi-
nancial year the number of stores amounted
to 3,511 stores in 55 markets.
Strategy
H&M’S main business concept is centred around offering fashionable clothing at the best possible price in every available market. The best
price is achieved by in-house design, no middle man with regards to distribution to the customer, purchasing large volumes, buying the right
products from the right markets, efficient logistics and cost consciousness throughout all parts of the organisation. H&M do not own any
factories. Instead they create long term partnerships with suppliers with whom they purchase large orders from. By always being aware of
costs at every stage, H&M can offer the best prices in the markets that they compete in. This allows them to create price-centred value for
customers.
Local Communities
H&M source from over 900 suppliers and 1900 factories. They have 19 production offices around the wrold which help maintain good long
term relationships with their partners and are committed to improving the working lives of the factory staff. H&M conduct thousands of un-
nannounced factory audits each year and hold interviews with the factory staff to ensure they know their working rights and how their wages
are calculated. They also provide positive incentives for factories to ensure that continual improvements are always being done.
H&M are also using their global influene to help abolish child labour. In 2004 they partnered up with UNICEF and provided funding and ad-
ditional support for those affected by child labour. So far they have reached out to over 1 million children and adults that have been affected
Figure 1: Shows the closed
loop production system
that H&M are leading the
way on. The idea is to col-
lect old clothes and re use
them and repurpose them
into new garments. H&M
run a garment collction
service and are current-
ly able to turn 20% of old
materials into yarns that
can be blended for new
products without the loss
of quality or longevity.
H&M (n.d.) states that “It’s
the quickest and easiest
way for our industry to
dramatically reduce how
many resources we use,
and how much material
goes to landfill”.
“We want to make conscious choices in fashion desir-
able and easily accessible for as many people as possi-
ble. The right choice should be an easy and attractive
one. Piece by piece this will reduce the impacts that
fashion has on the planet”.
Hennes and Mauritz (n.d.)
Organic Wool Organic Hemp

5. Exploratory Research - Timberland
Figure 2: Shows the breakdown of renewable energy consumption. From 2006 to 2013, Tim-
berland have managed to increase their renewable energy consumption by 20.17% with a
goal to increase this to 30% in 2015.
Figure 3: Shows a breakdown of Timberlands greenhouse gas emissions. By 2015 Timberland
have a target of reducing their greenhouse gas emissions to 14,645 metric tons of carbon emis-
sions. A target that has been very nearly hit in 2013.
Strategy
Timberland is a well known retailer of sturdy outdoor clothing, and therefore they have adopted a strategy of both commerce and justice.
Timberland realise that their core customer is conscious of the environmental impact that the production of clothes make, therefore they
have become committed to reducing their carbon footprint and helping out local communities. By investing in renewable energy resources
and socially responsible behaviour they hope to achieve their long term goal of turning over increasingly healthy profits. Investment into
renewable energy should help them reduce production costs in the long term whilst customers should be attracted to Timberlands caring
and socially responsible image, driving sales.
Local Communities
Timberland currently has a sustainable living environment program which is committed to improving the lives of its factory workers that
supply the products. They have employed a supplier sustainability team that go out into the factories and help them achieve a realistic and
manageable work and home life balance. 60% of workday time is lost due to occupational stress and it is the supplier sustainability team’s
responsibility to help manage this.
Timberland is also committed to helping factory workers in India obtain good quality and reliable childcare. Timberland opened an early
year’s community centre for its factory workers in Chennai, this focused on developing the children’s social and physical well being as well as
supporting cognitive and emotional development. Timberland provided all initial funding and equipment.
Financial Information
Revenue has increased from 7.2 Billion Dol-
lars on 2009 to 11.4 Billion Dollars in 2013.
Net sales in 2013 were $11,302,350 this is
a $1,936,873 increase from $9,365,477 in
2011 (VF Corpoation).
Global Revenues for Timberland were up
5% in 2013, the sales in Europe had also sta-
bilized folloiwing the uncertain economic
climate. 60% of Timberland’s revenue was
taken outside of the United States and they
have an expected revenue income of 2.3 Bil-
lion in 2017.

6. Price
H&M
The price for a pair of regular fit-
ting jeans at H&M is £14.99. This
is consistent with H&M’s business
concept which aims to provide
fashionable clothing at the lowest
possible price.
Mintel (2014) states that “The
group’s retail proposition is based
on delivering ‘fashion and quality
at the best price’. Its retail stores
are pitched as fashion destinations
for consumers looking for both chic
and basic clothing at affordable
prices.
The price links in well with its fast
fashion positioning and is very
competitive alongside the likes of
similar fast fashion brands like Top-
man, River Island and Forever 21.
Timberland
Timberland by comparison are
much more expensive with the
cheapest jeans being retailed at £70.
This could be due to the fac that the
brand has more of a focus on quali-
ty rather than fast fashion.
Timberland has a very strong brand
positioning that goes beyond the
outdoor wear that they sell. Their
whole brand image is centred
around strength and durablility and
this is reflected in the strength and
durability of thier products.
The longevity of Timberland’s prod-
ucts easily allow much more value
for the customers, because they
last longer and don’t have to be
replaced. This justifues the higher
price tag.
A Direct Price Comparison of a Pair of Jeans
H&M are price concsious throughout all apects of the comapny, which allows
them to become competitive on price. Buying in large volumes will allow for
economies of scale, meaning that orders become cheaper from suppliers when
large orders are secured. By monitoring markets, they also ensure that they are
buying the right products from the right markets which allows for cost savings.
Within its sports ranges, Timberland has been innovating in order to improve
the quality of their products and provide differentiation. Mintel (2014) re-
ports that Timberland has adopted P2i’s ion-mask technology, which allows
thier range of golfing shoes to be completely water repellent. By adding value
through innovation, Timberland are able to charge a highe price.

7. Place
H&M
Expansion
H&M operate in 48 countries around the globe and are extremely success-
ful across Europe, more so in Germany than in their host country, Sweden.
Hennes and Mauritz’s overall strategy is to increase the store portfolio across
all brands by 10 to 15% each year, with sales growing in proportion with this.
Instead of owning collateral, H&M choose to rent out retail space, which keeps
them flexible to changing consumer shopping habits regarding location. How-
ever, retail space in prime locations is known for being notoriously expensive
and therefore this can be a risky strategy.
H&M have had to operate in some countries under a franchise, such as India.
Although this isn’t part of their strategy overall, its trhe only way to easily
enter some market. In India, organic growth into the market and company
acquisitons are severely restricted, Hennes and Mauritz. (n.d.).
Distribution
Most of H&M’s distributon is managed by decentalized logistics centres that
support the stores within their geographical range. H&M stores do not have
back up stock and are replenished as required by the logistics and distribution
centres. This will help the stores keep less cluttered and more organised. Also,
by senidng in the stock that is selling through, H&M can keep their product
offering tailored to customer wants, driving sales.
Transport
In 2012 around 90% of transport done by Hennes and Maritz was carried out
by rail or sea. The company strives to avoid air travel at all costs, helping im-
prove their carbon footprint. The company also strives to work with more
environmentally friendly transport companies which helps develop their en-
virnmentally brand image.
Timberland
Expansion
Timberland have two expansion strategies that they use. They have invested
in speciality stores across the world in order to expand their store portfo-
lio. Organic growth into foriegn markets is both costly and time consuming,
particularly when researching effective sites for setting up stores. Therefore
Timberland have complimented their organic growth straegy with the imple-
mentation of concessions in higher end department stores across the world.
Concessions are a low cost entry strategy into foreign marlets, however it
doesn’t provide Timberland woth much control over footfall, so choosing the
right seites to set up concessions in is key, Vault. (2015).
Transport
Within VF Corporation’s sustainability report, they mention that 70% of all
products transported as sent via sea travel, 25% are taken via the VF Corpora-
tions vehicle fleet and only 5% is taken through air travel.
In order to make their vehicle fleet more sustainable. VF Corporation has in-
vested heavily into finding fuel efficient alternatives for the lorries and have
also invested into improving the aerodynamics of their vehicles, meaning that
the fuel put into the fleet should last longer. in theory this should help reduce
the corporation’s costs on transport in the longer term. VF Corporation. (2014)
VF corporation have also imporved the space effiency of their shipping con-
tainers. A statement taken from the VF Corporation’s sustainability report says
“We have also introduced improvements to container utilization in sea freight
– standardizing existing cartons and creating new cartons with optimized di-
mensions – enabling us to maximize the use of container space and eliminate
more than one million transit miles over the past four years”. VF Corporation.
(2014)

8. Promotion
Timberland - Best then Better now
In 2013, Timberland introduced a new advertising strategy - “Best then, Better
now”. The strategy behind the “Best then, better now campaign is to attract
the younger “millennial” audience. To do this the Timberland brand needs to
move the brand image into something more contemporary whilst retaining
the company’s strong green heritage.
Focus will be put on buidling a Timberland lifestyle rather than just being con-
centrated on becoming a strong footwear provider. Communication will be fo-
cused on portraying the Timberland products as something that can be worn
in towns and cities for a number of different occasions whist retaining strong
outdoor credibility.
Over the past couple of years Timberland have entered themselves on to a
number of different social media platforms including; Facebook, Twitter, Pin-
terest and Tumblr, allowing them greater scope for reaching out to the young-
er, more digitally competent Millenials.
In 2014 Timberland launched the “Ready for anything” campaign along its Fall
2014 collection, which see’s a number of young people engaging in all aspects
of city life whilst wearing Timberland gear. This continues the activities of the
“Best then Better Now” strategy, showing how Timberland can still be fash-
ionable and relevant whilst retaining the brand’s heritage.
H&M - Coachella
Following last year, H&M
has extended its partner-
ship with Coachella Music
Festival by offering a col-
laborative collection for
2015. The collection will
feature instore from late
March and will be availa-
ble to shop from a pop - up
store at the festival. Prices
will range from £2.99 to
£29.99, Elle UK (2015).
The Coachella collection is suggestive that H&M knows that it’s target audience
is primarily younger males and females, mainly of student age. By using a behav-
ioural segmentation strategy, H&M have targeted their customer and brought
out a collection that relflects their summer life style and modest budget. The
pop -up store is a fun and engaging way for customers to interact with the col-
lection and has the ability to create a tangible, memorable experience.
H&M-Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume
Institute Benefit 2015
H&M collaborated with Sarah Jessica Parker and creat-
ed a custom designed outfit for her for the Metropolitan
Museum of Art Costume Institute Benefit. the theme was
“China, through the Looking Glass” and the outfit was a
one shouldered black dress in silk. The dress had a train
embroidered with scarlett poppies and the outfit also in-
cluded a fabric panel, containing a patchwork of sustaina-
ble fabrics. The fabric panel was used to highlight H&M’s
dedication to helping the environment and increasing
the companies sustainability.

9. Product
H&M - Stance on Cotton Use
H&M is the biggest user of organic cotton in the world. Organic Cotton is
grown without chemical pesticides and fertilizers, and contains no genetically
modified organisms.
On some of their products, H&M have started using recycled cotton. “Recy-
cled cotton comes from old garments and textile leftovers, which are grinded
into fibre, spun into new yarns and weaved into new fabrics” Hennes and
Mauritz ,(n.d.). All recycled cotton that is used by H&M is stated on garment
labels and has to be checked thoroughly by a third party before being allowed
to be marketed as such.
As a member of the BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) H&M are able to provide
knowledge and support for farmers in order to grow more organic and sus-
tainable cotton without the aid of foreign chemicals. “A BCI farmer uses less
water and chemicals, cares for the soil and natural habitats, and promotes
good working conditions on his land” Hennes and Mauritz ,(n.d.).
Timberland
Timberland - Product Customization
Timberland has followed in the footsteps of other established footwear brands
such as Converse and Nike and has enabled customers to customize their own
boots to suit personal tastes. Titlow (2011), reports that “technology itself has
become more advanced, allowing businesses to build sophisticated, yet easy-
to-use interfaces (or “configurators”) from which consumers can co-create
products”. As technology advances, customers will be able to interact more
with products and this help build a relationship with the brand. Brand’s like
timberland can be more flexible to the individual tastes of customrs, this wil
help customers see more value in Timberland.
Timberland - Earthkeepers
In 2007, Timberland launched the “Earthkeepers” collection of shoes. These
shoes are primarily made with recycled plastic bottles. Currently on the Tim-
berland shopping site, there are 459 different pairs of shoes made from re-
cyclyed plastic bottles. Timberland has gone even further into innovating by
developing their own fabric for the shoes from the bottles called ReCanvas™,
through partnership with a weaving specialist, Timberland (2015).
Figure 4:
Shows the
breakdown
in material
types used in
Timberland’s
Footwear
range.
H&M
H&M – David Beckham Collaboration
David Beckham has just released a Modern Essentials collection for H&M. This
involved Beckham picking out his favourite pieces from the H&M Spring Es-
sentials 2015 collection. This created a modern capsule collection for H&M,
which Beckham modelled for the campaign. By utilising a popular figure in
the media, H&M can hope to achieve an upswing in the sales of their modern
essentials collection due to the increased public relation pieces. Beckham’s
presence will attract huge media attention and may drive sales.

10. SWOT Analysis - H&M
Strengths
• H&M offer fast fashion at a competitive price within the market against
threats such as Topman and River Island.
• Have gathered a strong celebrity portfolio helping them boost their brand
image.
• They have worked with many designers in the past, including: Karl Lager-
feld, Stella McCartney and Jimmy Choo, this helps create more percieved
value for the customer by having links to the luxury fashion market.
• They know their target audience (mainly 16-25’s) well and are well versed
in knowing how to target them. For example setting up a pop-up store at
the Coachella festival suggests that they know how their target market be-
have and how they like to spend their time.
Opportunities
• In order to increase awareness of H&M’s sustainabilty initiatives the com-
pany could potentially invest with a celebrity endorser who could help pro-
mote the brands dedication to helping the environment and wider world,
this could help H&M differerntiate themselves further within a saturated
market.
• Create more of a sustainable image within their store environments. By us-
ing sustainable materials to decorate the store, H&M can have a full retail
portfolio that fully communicates to the customer the full business con-
cept.
• Having more instore communications that communicate to the customer
how many achievements have been made by the help of H&M worldwide.
Weaknesses
• H&M have been criticized in the past for reportedly exploiting labour in
Bangladesha and Uzbekistan. A young 12 year old labour force was appar-
ently made up to work up to 14 hour days, working with cotton. Bad press
like the could severely hamper H&M’s sustainability reputation.
• Being so price competitive could mean that some consumers see H&M as
offering a lower quality product offering.
• In comparison with the likes of Topshop, River Island and Zara, H&M’s
store interiors can be quite plain, this doesn’t help make a customers
shopping experience memorable.
Threats
• Not having any collateral is a risky strategy when H&M operate in so
many markets with precarious economic structures. If costs were to rise
or demand was to decline due to economic conditions. H&M could find
themselves losing retail space.
• Zara offer’s strong copetiton to H&M. Zara have a well embedded, verti-
cally intergrated supply chain that means they can stay extremely trend
driven. They also have a boutique like layout that provides a unique fast
-fashion shopping experience.

11. SWOT Analysis - Timberland
Strengths
• Timberland have a strong brand positioning as a retailer that provides qual-
ity and durability in their products and have carved a niche for themselves
within this as a solid working boot.
• Timberland have strong pricing power, the superior amount of durability
within the products helps justify the high end retail prices.
• Allowing the customization of the boots helps customers interact with the
Timberland brand, helping to drive sales and also helping the product to
become more than a working boot.
• Unlike H&M, Timberland have a strong retail environment that communi-
cates both the outdoor use for the products and the brand’s commitment
to sustainability, providing a strong and individual positioning.
Weaknesses
• Because Timberland have quite a strong brand heritage, it may become
more difficult for them to attract new audiences to their products.
• The price points are quite high meaning that the mass market may prefer
to buy similar products from a fast fashion retailer.
• Timberland were recently taken over by VF Corporations. The new acqui-
sition may mean that VF Corporation are still making changes to the brand
which will make it more difficult to communicate brand image effectively.
• Timberland’s philosophy is at the very heart of what they do, meaning
that it isn’t widely publicized. This could mean that their corporate, so-
cial responsibility image could be somewhat lost among some consumers
who are unfamiliar with the brand.
Opportunities
• Timberland could follow in H&M’s footsteps and take to monitoring the
prices of raw materials in all international markets, meaning that produc-
tion becomes more cost effective, allowing Timberland to become more
price flexible.
• Celebrity endorsement could provide some hype around the brand, some-
one like Bear Gryll’s would be perfect as he represents the Timberland life-
style completely and is perfectly marketable for the mass market.
Threats
• Timberland faces extremely tough competition in the Outdoor wear sec-
tor from established International brands such as Nike.
• The current economic uncertainty means that for many, Timberland’s
prices could be seen as unreachable.

12. Conclusion
Overall H&M have a strong brand offering within the fast fashion market. Their prices remain affordable for their target audience of young adults (16 – 25 age
bracket) and this is one of the main drivers of their success. By keeping their strategy full cost conscious, H&M have managed to use their affordability in order
to differentiate themselves within a saturated marketplace. However H&M must take care that their prices aren’t set too low. Easey, M, (2009. P.179) states that
“Setting price levels too low may send confused messages and alienate some buyers who feel that the product may be poorly made”. Alienating buyers could
lose H&M valuable custom and market share.
Saying this H&M have managed to create extra value within their product offering by collaborating with luxury designer such as Karl Lagerfeld. This gives the
product range a much-needed injection of prestige, which helps keep perceptions of quality high. Coupled with the affordability of the brand; H&M have a very
strong product offering.
The closed production loop is particularly innovative and is a realistic way of making sure that natural resources aren’t exploited, however the yarn recovery
still only stands at 20%, highlighted that development on this idea is still needed. It is here that lies a possible opportunity for H&M. Investing further into the
closed production loop and increasing the recyclable yield from old garments could be a prefect way for H&M to lead the way in sustainable fashion and truly
differentiate themselves from their fast fashion competitors. However, H&M could also be missing an opportunity to promote their good practices within their
retail environment. By investing in more recyclable materials and in store advertising to adorn their stores in, H&M could further develop their brand image
into a solid eco-friendly retailer within the eyes of the customer. This would also help mitigate the effects of some bad publicity that may be lingering. Facing
Finance (n.d.), writes that “A German TV program entitled “Your Cheap Fashion – Our Misery” has reportedly featured H&M’s links to child labour and labour
exploitation in Uzbekistan and Bangladesh”. By promoting the good that they have done, H&M can help dissolve the bad publicity.
Timberland are known for excellent product quality and durability and they have a strong history of producing quality boots suitable for both work and leisure.
The ability to customize boots to suit individual customer needs also shows flexibility to customer’s wants. Timberland also has a high level of innovation within
their boots, their own developed fabric “ReCanvas” shows a solid commitment to improving the sustainability of the brand. However Timberland maybe capital-
izing on their boots at the expense of their other product categories. Perhaps by investing more in the marketing and developing of other product categoroies,
Timberland will be able to strengthen their overall prodeuct offering.
The brand has a dedicated and ambitious sustainabilty plan which helps them maintain a strong, positive PR image. Easey, (2009. p226) says that, “Public Rela-
tions is about reputation - the result of what you do, what you say and what others say about you”. Strategies such as Sustainable Living Environment program
that Timberland run, continue to contribute to the overall caring reputation that Timberland hold. Unlike H&M, what Timberland do well is project their sustain-
able image into their retail environment. Varley, R, (2014. p172) notes that, “the use of reclaimed wood, stone, metal and leather suggests a journey through
the outdoors”. This shows how the store environment is constantly projecting what is at the heart of Timberland. On the other hand, what Timberland could do
more of is publicise their ecologial achievements. Wider publication could entice in new buyers who are looking for quality and integrity within their clothing
products.
A celebrity endorsement could also help Timberland stimulate sales. Bear Gryll’s has been suggested as a solid choice because of his extreme outdoor lifestyle
and commitment to preserving the world’s natural wonders. Bringing in a celebrity would create some much needed hype around the brand.

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