1. Dedicated to Color Perfection

3. Academy Programs >> Color Inspection & Design >> Creative Color Placement >> >> The Academy@Baltimore and Academy@Santa Monica NORTH AMERICAN EDUCATION >> The Academy@Vancouver and Academy@Toronto

6. THE VERY HEART OF COLOR EXPERTISE

12. Artificial Pigments – Colorant Types Demi Temporary Permanent

13. Primary Colors Secondary/Complimentary Colors Tertiary Colors Red Yellow Blue Orange Green Violet Red Orange Red Violet Yellow Orange - (Gold) Blue Violet Yellow Green Blue Green What Is Color

14. Law of Color/ Goldwell Color Wheel

15. Acidity vs. Alkalinity

19. Measuring Cylinder Colormat Dosage System Tools

25. Shades and Tones

26. Shades and Tones G = Gold GN = Gold Natural GB = Gold Brown GK = Gold Copper BG = Brown Gold B = Brown BN = Brown Natural N = Natural NN = Natural (double intensity) A = Ash NA = Natural Ash NP = Natural Pearl SB = Silver Brown MB = Matt Browns BP = Pearly Couture Brown BM = Matt Couture Brown BS = Smoky Couture Brown Topchic Neutralights Green-Ash Ash-Ash Blue-Ash Violet-Ash 10P = Pearl 10V = Violet

27. Shades and Tones BKV = Brown Copper Violet BSG – Brown Silver Gold BKP = Brown Copper Pearl NBK = Natural Brown Copper NBR = Natural Brown Red NGB = Natural Gold Brown RB = Red Brown R = Red RR = Red Red RG = Red Gold RV = Red Violet V = Violet VR = Violet Red K = Copper KN = Copper Natural BK = Brown Copper KB = Copper Brown KG = Copper Gold KR = Copper Red OR = Orange Red RO = Red Orange NGP = Natural Gold Pearl NBP = Natural Brown Pearl Color Zoom ’11 MG = Blackened Matt Gold RS = Blackened Red Silver KS = Blackened Copper Silver

31. Level Direction Color Code Determination of Target color Level Direction

32. Goldwell System Color Remover Skin is a dermatological tested lotion that safely and gently removes unwanted color residue on the forehead, neck, ears and hands after coloring Standard Application: 1. Apply to a cotton ball 2. Gently massage on the stained area until color residue has been removed 3. Briefly wipe with water System Color Remover Skin

33. Colorance Demi-Permanent Color

36. Hair Analysis Use Natural N-shade strand from the Color Tableau to determine natural haircolor Colorance Demi-Permanent Color

41. Cover the tip of the nozzle with a finger Mixing Colorance Demi-Permanent Color

43. Color character/reflect: N = Natural Packaging Acid Color Shades Silver label: Acid shades Level of depth: 10 = Extra Light Blonde Shade name: Extra Light Blonde Description: Acid Color Colorance Demi-Permanent Color

45. Lotion Colorance Developer Lotion Mixing ratio Ratio is always 2:1 (lotion : color) Application Pre-shampooed, towel dried hair Rinse only to remove Processing time 5 - 25 minutes (w/o heat) Heat reduces the processing t i me by approx. 20% Colorance Acid Shades

46. Colorance Demi-Permanent Services – Acid Color

47. Intensive Demi Coloring 1. Shampoo with colorglow [IQ] Preparation Shampoo and thoroughly towel dry 2. Measure Colorance Demi-Permanent shade/s in a Colorance Shade applicator bottle 3. Apply quickly and methodically from scalp to ends, comb through with a wide-tooth comb to ensure even distribution 4. Process for 15-25 minutes, depending on intensity and durability 5. Rinse, condition with colorglow [IQ] Color Finish Serums Colorance Demi-Permanent Color - Acid

52. Toning 1. If required, create new highlights with Topchic/O.P./Ultra or SilkLift 2. Then rinse, shampoo and condition with colorglow [IQ] Color Cleanse Shampoo and colorglow [IQ] Color Neutralize Conditioner neutralize the alkalinity 3. A pply selected Colorance Demi-Permanent Haircolor shade to the towel-dried hair, distribute evenly 4. Depending on the color intensity required, leave to process for 5-25 minutes, do not use additional heat 5. Then rinse thoroughly, do not shampoo again 6. If required, finish the treatment with colorglow [IQ] Color Neutralize Conditioner or colorglow [IQ] Color Finish Serums Colorance Demi-Permanent Color - Acid

53. Colorance Acid Color Shades Formulation

54. Colorance Acid Formulations Colorance Demi-Permanent Color Formula Formula XL 6 -> 6 7RB % 0 40ml CAL 20ml 6RB XL 5 -> 5 5MB % 0 40ml CAL 20ml 5MB

55. Colorance Lowlights

58. Always Mix 2:1 2 parts Lowlights Developer Lotion + 1 part Colorance Lowlights Shades 20 ml Lowlights Developer Lotion 10 ml Colorance Lowlight Shade Consistency of Colorance Lowlights is perfectly suited for brush and bowl application Colorance Lowlights Formulation Processing time 30 - 45 minutes without heat

59. Colorance Demi-Permanent Mild Alkaline Color

60. Color character/reflect : NN = Extra Nature Packaging NN Shades Mild Alkaline Shades Black Label: NN Shades Level of depth : 9 = Very Light Blonde Lotion to use: Intensive Developer Lotion Shade Name: Light-Light Blonde Extra Colorance Demi-Permanent Mild Alkaline Color

64. Mild-Alkaline Color Grey Formulation

65. Resistant Grey coverage with Colorance Grey NN Shades recommendation Colorance NN Series is ideal for up to 75% grey coverage Colorance Demi-Permanent Mild Alkaline Color Total quantity 60 ml Coloration Grey percentage Quantity N N shade Quantity Target Shade up to 75 % 10 ml 1 0 ml

66. Resistant Grey coverage with Colorance Grey NN Shades recommendation Colorance Demi-Permanent Mild Alkaline Color Formula XL 5 -> 5 TC 5B NCP % 50 40ml CIL 10ml 5B 10ml 5NN

68. Color character/reflect: RO = Red Orange Packaging Max Red Mild Alkaline Shades Red Label: Max Red Shades Level of depth : 8 = Light Blonde Lotion to use: Intensive Developer Lotion Shade name: e.g. Coral Glow Colorance Demi-Permanent Mild Alkaline Color

70. Red Formulation Mild-Alkaline Color Shades

71. Colorance Max Reds Formulations Colorance Demi-Permanent Mild Alkaline Color Formula Formula XL 5 -> 5 TC 5RV % 0 40ml CIL 20ml 5RV XL 8 -> 8 TC 8RO % 0 40ml CIL 20ml 8RO

73. Packaging Mix Shades Mild Alkaline Shades Blue L abel : Mix Shades Mix Tones: Pearl – Mix P-Mix Lotion to use: Intensive Developer Lotion Shade Name: Pearl-Mix Colorance Demi-Permanent Mild Alkaline Color

74. Colorance Mix Tones Formulations Colorance Demi-Permanent Mild Alkaline Color Formula Formula XL 6 -> 6 TC 6R % 0 40ml CIL 10ml 6R 10ml RR Mix XL 7 -> 7 TC 7KG % 0 40ml CIL 10ml 7KG 10ml KK Mix

75. NN, Max Red & Mix Shades Usage Lotion Colorance Intensive Developer Lotion Mixing ratio Ratio is always 2:1 (lotion : color) Application On dry hair. Shampoo after rinsing off Processing time 15 - 30 minutes (w/o heat) Mix Tones should not exceed 50% of the color mass in the formula Colorance Demi-Permanent Mild Alkaline Color

77. Topchic Permanent Haircolor

80. Topchic Permanent Haircolor Formulation

81. Determination of Color in mid-length and ends Hair Analysis Take swatch from the tableau, fan it and place at the clients hair, repeat until the correct shade level is determined In case of uncertainty choose the darker strand Topchic Permanent Haircolor

83. Blueprint for Formulation STEP 1: IDENTIFY THE EXISTING LEVEL OR LEVELS = XL Use swatches from the Color Tableau or Universal Shade Chart to determine the existing level (s). (It is essential to know the existing level and base shade (s), so a starting point can be determined and if the target color can be achieved in a single or double process) STEP 2: DETERMINE THE TARGET LEVEL = ↕-> Consider: Hair to be lighter, darker or maintain the same level, only adjusting the tone STEP 3: DETERMINE THE TARGET COLOR = TC Consider: Fashion tones with gold or reddish tones or a natural brown tone (choose a desired shade) Topchic Permanent Haircolor

84. Blueprint for Formulation STEP 4: DETERMINE NATURAL CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT = NCP From the NCP Chart, choose the NCP at target level. Decide whether you want to control or enhance the end result. STEP 5: DETERMINE THE GREY PERCENTAGE = % Use the three categories of grey percentage, also consider whether the client prefers grey coverage or grey blending. When there is grey in the natural hair, the formula must contain a portion of the N-Series for optimum coverage. NOTE: Step 1 & 2 determine the volume of Topchic Lotion needed Step 3, 4 & 5 determine the Topchic Shades needed. Topchic Permanent Haircolor

85. * When adding Blonding Cream Topchic Permanent Haircolor Selection of Lotion Target is ... H 2 O 2 Darker than Base Level Same Level or 1 level lighter than Base Level 2-3* levels lighter than Base Level 3-4* levels lighter than Base Level 3% - ( 10 volume) 6% - (20 volume) 9% - (30 volume) 12% - (40 volume)

87. Topchic Application

92. Natural Contributing Pigment Chart Natural Level Activating Pigment Controlling Color 2 Darkest Orange Green Ash, Ash Ash, A 3 Dark Dark Orange Green Ash, Ash Ash 4 Dark Orange Blue Ash, Ash Ash 5 Medium Orange Blue Ash, Violet Ash, MB, A 6 Light Orange MB, SB, A, NA, NP 7 Extra Light Orange MB, SB, A, NA, NP 8 Medium Gold (yellow-orange) SB, A, NA, NP 9 Light Gold A, NA 10 Extra Light Gold or * yellow possible A, P, V* * Yellow may appear as the underlying pigment at level 10 after decolorization, in this case, use 10V (violet) as the controlling color toner

94. Grey Formulation Topchic Permanent Haircolor

96. Topchic Permanent Haircolor Grey Formulation Grey Hair Amount Topchic-Lotion Amount N-Shade Amount Fashion Shade up to 30% up to 60% up to 100% 40ml 40ml 40ml 15ml 20ml 25ml 25ml 20ml 15ml

100. Grey Formulation Topchic Permanent Haircolor Formula Formula XL 6  6 TC 6KG NCP % 50 20 volume 40ml 6KG 20ml 6N 20ml Color Balance ends w/6KG XL 4  6 TC 6BK NCP % 20 30 volume 40ml 6BK 15ml 6MB 10ml 6N 15ml Color Balance ends w/6BK

101. Resistant Grey Formulation Topchic Permanent Haircolor Formula Formula XL 6  6 TC 6KG NCP % 50 20 volume 40ml 6KG 20ml 6NN 20ml Color Balance ends w/6KG XL 4  6 TC 6B NCP % 20 30 volume 40ml 6BK 15ml 6MB 10ml 6NN 15ml Color Balance ends w/6BK

103. Triflective Naturals

107. Men ReShade The most masculine way to reduce grey!

109. Product Concept | Men ReShade Before / After

111. HiBlondes Control

115. Selecting the Appropriate Topchic Lotion Topchic Lotion Levels of Lightening 9% (30 vol.) 2-3 levels 12% (40 vol.) 3-4 levels 9% (30 volume) 3-5 levels 11*,12*, NeutraLights * When adding Blonding Cream is added 12% (40 volume) 4-5 1/2 levels 11*,12*, NeutraLights * When adding Blonding Cream is added

116. 2 Parts Lotion + 1 Part Color Mass H 2 O 2 : 9% - 30 volume 12% - 40 volume Recommended Mix: 2:1 50ml – 30/40 volume only 25ml – HiBlondes Control Determination of Formulation

117. Topchic HiBlondes Control 11 Series

121. 70 – 100%* Determination of formulation - Coverage of Grey Hair *In this case the use of the 11Series is not recommended, because lift of the hair color is not necessary, please refer to the rules of conventional colors. Topchic HiBlondes Control – 11 Series White present Amount Topchic-Lotion Amount 11 Series Amount 9N up to 30 % 30 - 50% 50 – 70% 50ml 40ml 40ml 25ml 10ml 15ml - 10ml 25ml

123. Topchic HiBlondes Control – 12 Series

125. Shade Recommendations Topchic HiBlondes Control 12 Series Level 12GN 12 BG 12BN 12BS 12BM 8 light blonde 7 med blonde 6 dark blonde 5 light brown Not Recommended

129. Summary TOPCHIC HiBLONDES CONTROL PROVIDE: A system comprising of Topchic 11 and 12 Series for the strongest lift and tone in one step Highlift Control Formula Topchic Highlift Color Card with accurate swatches and Base Level Analyser Integrated Protect System now with a doubled concentration of Coenzymes Reworked Blonding Cream/ Ash allows mixing now also with 12-series YOUR BENEFIT ... Fulfill every client‘s need on every hair base Absolute reliability and predictability of the result Absolutely precise shade selection and consultation Superior hair care with more shine and smoothness – every time Lightest Results and even more flexibility without any limitations ... FOR YOUR CLIENTS Individual, lively blonde results that fit to their type perfectly Always exactly the blonde they desire Professional blonde service from start to finish Lastingly beautiful color and shiny smooth hair Lightest Blonde Results

130. Topchic NeutraLights

132. Shade Recommendations Choice of Topchic Lotion 2 – 3 levels lighter 30 Volume Topchic Lotion 3 – 4 levels lighter 40 Volume Topchic Lotion Level Violet Ash Blue Ash Green Ash Ash Ash 5 light brown 4 med brown 3 dark brown 2 black

134. Standard Application Topchic NeutraLights 1. Apply to clean, dry hair 2. Use a bowl & brush application or Goldwell ColorMat 3. Mix 2:1 – 2 parts Topchic Lotion to 1 part Topchic Haircolor 4. Standard mixture: 50ml 30 or 40 volume with 25ml NeutraLights color 5. Process at room temperature 30 minutes or 15 minutes with heat (HEAT: Open air system ONLY, no hooded dryer, example Olymp HairMaster) 6. Rinse and shampoo with co lorglow [IQ] Cleanse Shampoo 7. Post condition with colorglow [IQ] Color Neutralize Conditioner or finish with co lorglow [IQ] Color Finish Serums

138. Topchic Blonding Cream and Blonding Cream Ash

141. Example formula of Blonding Cream with the HiBlondes Control Example formula of Blonding Cream with a fashion tone Topchic Blonding Cream 40 Volume 50ml 11or 12 Series 15ml Blonding Cream 10ml (In this formula BC has been added as a lift booster to maximize lifting potential) 40 Volume 40ml 7KG 20ml Blonding Cream 20ml

142. Topchic Blonding Cream Ash Example formula of Blonding Cream Ash with the HiBlondes Control 40 Volume 50ml 11 or 12 Series 15ml Blonding Cream Ash 10ml (In this formula Blonding Cream Ash has been added as a lift booster to maximize lifting and controlling in a single process)

143. SilkLift Oxycur Platin/Ultra Decolorizers

145. Shield Technology and Silkprotein Complex SilkLift

146. Targeted Conditioning & Structural balancing inside the hair Smoothing of cuticle structure outside the hair Silkprotein Complex The Silkprotein Complex provides targeted conditioning during the lightening – exactly where needed. It conditions and balances structural differences inside the hair and smoothes the cuticle structure outside the hair. SilkLift

147. SilkLift Untreated, natural hair SilkLift System (ammonia lightener with serum) Basic Bleach

153. Mixing ratio 35ml Conditioning Cream Developer + 1 scoop (25 g) High Performance Lightener 10 – 45 minutes Without heat Processing Time Choice of Cream Developer SilkLift 3% 6% 9% Off scalp X X X On scalp X X

158. New Blonde

167. Toning Options

170. Dedicated to Color Perfection

171. Rules for Effective Color Correction 1. Do Not Panic 2. Establish the true problem 3. Establish what caused the problem 4. Establish the most suitable remedy 5. Always take one step at a time 6. Never guarantee exact results 7. Always, Always strand test

172. Corrective vs. Alternative Corrective: The action or instance of correcting Something substituted in place of what is wrong Serving to raise or adjust something to some standard or proper condition Alternative: Offering or expressing a choice Different from the usual or conventional Affording a choice of two or more things or courses of action

176. Corrective Color

180. Procedure for System Color Remover 1. Using an applicator bottle or tint bowl, mix Lotion 1 and Lotion 2 together 2. Apply immediately starting with the darkest areas first 3. Process 15 to 20 minutes (Heat is optional) 4. Upon completion of processing, shampoo vigorously 5. To ensure all oxidation tint has been removed, apply 40 ml Colorance Lotion or 10 Volume Topchic Lotion to the hair (comb through for even distribution) process 3 minutes, repeat application of color remover if necessary 6. Rinse and lightly shampoo, condition 7. Formulate, choose a shade one level lighter than target with corrective service 8. Proceed with color service Decolorization

186. Pre-Pigmentation for Tint Backs and Color Balancing

188. Application 1. Select an appropriate pre-pigmentation shade from the application chart 2. Using the Colorance applicator bottle mix 2 parts distilled water to 1 part pre-pigmentation shade 3. Apply evenly to dry hair, do not over saturate, no rinsing 4. Apply haircolor directly over filler 5. Work the hair color and filler together to ensure distribution 6. Process according to manufacturers directions System Pre-Pigmentation

189. Application Review System Pre-Pigmentation

190. System Pre-Pigmentation Application Chart Red Gold Copper

191. Tint-Backs

194. 1. Cleanse hair with colorglow [IQ] Preparation Shampoo , towel dry 2. Apply appropriate pre-pigmentation shade or Soft Color Shade 3. Choose a Colorance shade up to 2 levels deeper than existing level, apply and process for 25 - 30 minutes 4. Upon completion rinse thoroughly and towel dry 5. Re-analyze the hair and apply appropriate shade up to 2 levels darker than previous, process 6. Repeat step 4 and condition Colorance Non-Alkaline Tint-Back Application

196. 1. Apply appropriate pre-pigmentation shade 2. Immediately mix 20 volume Topchic lotion with Topchic formula using standard 1:1 ratio 3. Apply Topchic formula directly over filler and work together for even distribution 4. Process for 25 minutes 5. Re-work Topchic and filler for the remaining 5 minutes 6. Shampoo and condition with colorglow [IQ] Color Cleanse Shampoo and colorglow [IQ] Color Neutralize Conditioner Topchic Alkaline Tint-Back Application

198. Corrective Formulations