1. TEXTILE
VALUE CHAIN
100
www.textilevaluechain.com
Ph.: + 9122-26844222. Email: lsauxichempvt@gmail.com
B-301, Oxford Chamber, Saki Vihar Road,
Tunga Village, Mumbai - 400 072. (India).
CORPORATE OFFICE:
Pure silver yarn for Jeans,
Pure silver yarn for Suiting / Shirting
Pure silver yarn for Dress Material
Pure silver yarn for Embroidery
5. Editorial
Success is not the matter of
being the best and winning the race.
Success is handling the worst
and still finishing the race
Spinning, the pride of the Textile Value Chain
Editorial Advisor,
Secretary General of MOA
6. 08 Cover story : India's Policy Power and Pollution
Textile Parks,
on Infrastructure
12 Cover Story continued... Interviews & Views
Views and Interviews by Industrialists from
Bombay Rayon Fashions, Chiripal Group,
SVG Fashion, Rishabh Metals and Chemicals, and...
28 New Ageprevious edition's New Age Fibres and Yarns
Continuation of
Fabric Applications and Architecture
36Artificial Turf. Artificial grassSPORTSTECH
A look at
Technical Textiles:
for India's needs
40 Visual Merchandising
A Study to see its effect on the sale of textiles
Development of Software to
43 Engineer Cotton knitted Fabric
To solve inconsistency issues in Knitted Fabrics
60 Approaches towards Effluent Treatment in Textiles
Need of the hour!!
7. News: Global / National 06
Cover story: Interview with Mr. S.N. Todi, Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd.. 12
Interview with Mr. Jaiprakash Chiripal, Chiripal Group & 13
Mr. Sandip Agarwal, SVG Fashions Ltd. 13
Interview with Mr. Rishabh Jain, Rishabh Metal & Chmicals Pvt. Ltd & 14
View of Mr. Uttam Jain 14
Views of Mr. Aditya Biyani, Dr. Talukdar, Mr. Deshbandhu Kagzi, Mr. Kirti Shah 15
Pollution Redressal Policy 16
Fibre : Banana : A Fruit fibre 20
SRTEPC Events brief 21
Yarn : Influence of yarn and fabric structures on colour values of textiles 22
Linen & Chairs / Rattan Glitter presence in exhibition 25
Colour forecast: Fall Winter 2013 32
Technical textile: News 38
Skill gap analysis: In Fabric Processing Sector 46
Skill gap: Setting of Skill development project by Ministry of Textiles 48
College focus: Nirmala Niketan College of Home Science 49
Career focus: Career Opportunity in textilles with Home science courses 50
Govt. policy: Good Economics is Good Politics 52
Associations News: CITI & FICCI 54
TAI & HCC 55
BMC & MOA 56
ITAMMA 38
Tradeshow details 57
Tradeshow Review: ITME 2012 & Vastra 2012 58
8. Levi's® Debuts WasteLess™ Denim
Collection
Source: www.textileworld.com
San Francisco-based Levi Strauss & Co.
has introduced the Levi's® Waste<Less™
collection of denim jeans and trucker jackets
made using materials derived from post-
consumer recycled (PCR) polyethylene
terephthalate (PET) bottles and food trays.
The garments, to be featured in the Levi's
Spring 2013 collection for men and women,
will include a minimum of 20-percent PCR
content, with an average of eight 12- to 20-
ounce PCR PET bottles going into each pair of
jeans and more than 3.5 million bottles going
into the overall Spring 2013 Waste<Less
collection.
The PCR materials include brown, green
and clear bottles and black food trays; and will
be sorted by color and processed into flake
industry. The adhesive is packaged in a pre- In addition to high bond strengths, other
and then into fiber. The fiber will be blended
pressurized cylinder for an easy-to-use, key advantages of this product include labor,
with cotton in yarns that Greensboro, N.C.-
maintenance-free delivery system. Workers equipment and materials savings. By
based Cone Denim will weave with cotton
simply spray the adhesive on the two fabrics eliminating the need for expensive sewing
yarn into fabric for the collection. Levi's notes
being bonded and apply pressure to the machines and generators, contractors can
that the color of the bottles used will provide
seam. The adhesive dries quickly, further also avoid unforeseen down time due to
an undertone to the fabric and a unique finish
enabling fast and efficient assembly. These equipment maintenance and repair.
to the garment.
simple steps create a bond strong enough to Additionally, in some cases, use of 3M
According to James Curleigh, global
meet the American Association of State Geotextile Seaming Cylinder Spray Adhesive
president, Levi's brand, the new collection
Highway and Transportation Officials reduces the need for a geotextile material
demonstrates the company's commitment to
(AASHTO) M288-06 requirements for seam overlap from 24" to 6", providing additional
reducing its environmental impact and
efficiency for a wide variety of specifications. material savings.
encouraging others to do the same, while
providing products of good quality. "By adding
value to waste, we hope to change the way
Pakistan – Textile Sector to Lose US $ 3 Billion Export Orders
people think about recycling, ultimately
Source: The Nation via www.yarnsandfibres.com
incentivizing them to do more of it," he said.
"This collection proves that you don't have to The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association, additional burden of Rs4 per unit of higher
sacrifice quality, comfort or style to give an while appreciating government proposal of electricity cost to the consumers.
end a new beginning." restricting CNG fuel only to public transport, He said that the solution to the issue of
has said that textile industry would lose $3b gas lies in prioritising industry and power
exports if gas curtailment continued for sector and only giving direct targeted support
3M Geotextile Seaming Cylinder Spray another three months, as gas suspension to to low income group by subsiding cheap fuel
Adhesive introduced industry continued for five days a week. to only public transport. This should also be
Source: GM via www.technicaltextile.com The leader of textile sector and former regulated so that the advantage should be
3M introduces 3M Geotextile Seaming chairman of the Aptma Gohar Ejaz hailed the passed to common man, besides fair of
Cylinder Spray Adhesive, a new method for PM Adviser on Petroleum and Natural transport should also be fixed according to
seaming geotextile fabrics for uses including, Resources Dr Asim Hussain for supporting CNG rates, he added.
but not limited to, erosion control, and soil longstanding stance of textile industry in public He strongly protested against five days a
separation and subgrade stabilization interest to prevent use of CNG in vehicles week gas curtailment to textile industry by the
applications. The adhesive is an extremely over 1,000cc and increasing taxes on CNG SNGPL, as the industry would not be able to
versatile, fast-tacking construction-grade with a view to bring its price to a level 20 per perform when it is already passing through six
spray adhesive with a unique wide-web spray cent lower than petrol. hours a day electricity load shedding. He said
pattern, ideal for bonding geotextile fabrics. “Aptma endorses Dr Asim's measures for the industry was unable to understand the
With this innovative solution, installers of fair support of local industry as part of the plan logic behind gas curtailment for five days a
geotextile fabric can see time-savings of more to phase out CNG industry, which is eating up week when CNG pumps were on
than 56 percent compared to sewing. 425 million cubic feet gas per day,” the Aptma countrywide strike against price reduction.
3M Geotextile Seaming Cylinder Spray group leader observed. He said that long queues outside CNG
Adhesive lets contractors create quick, Because of this usage of 400mmcfd gas in stations show that consumption of CNG has
permanent bonds on many geotextile fabrics, CNG, 3,000MW electricity, which can be increased out of proportions and it is in the
and also provides a seam strength that produced from this gas, is being produced interest of the country to do away with CNG
outperforms the fabric strength for many through furnace and diesel, costing $3 billion as it was wastage of resources.
commonly used fabrics in the construction of import of this oil to Pakistan, along with
9. NATIONAL NEWS Joint Venture
Mafatlal Forays into towel business in quality 100% cotton yarn in a wide range Beaulieu International Group enters a
Joint Venture with Girosons Clothing of 11 bright & fresh colours. The Lagoona JV with Lucknow-Based INDTEX
Industry range of towels is made from premium International
Source: Press Release combed cotton for a softer feel and high Source:www.economictimes.com
absorbency. The Coral range is made The project entailing an investment
from rich combed cotton, which is lint of Rs 100 crore would be through a joint
less and available in 11 inspiring pastel, venture with its Indian partner Lucknow
medium & dark colours. The Pearla range based, Indtex International. Beaulieu
is a 100% cotton fancy jacquard towels. would hold the majority stake in the
Marina range offers a range with stripe project.
designs. Desire range offers a range with Vice President and CTO, Beaulieu
Mafatlal Industries Ltd. has forayed into
polka dot designs. Thus, Mafatlal Towels International Group, Guy Verrue along
towel business on a massive scale by
have set new tradition to enhance the w i t h M a n a g i n g Pa r t n e r I n d t e x
entering into
bathing experience. International, Iqbal Siddiqui met the
a joint venture with Girisons
Mr. Vineet Jain, Director- Girisons Principal Secretary, Infrastructure and
Clothing Industry.
Group further stated that Mafatlal Towels Industrial Development, Siddiqui said that
Mafatlal Towels with high absorbency
are introduced initially in Maharashtra, they received assurance of full
in various sizes are manufactured with the
Gujarat, Tamilnadu and KeralaMafatlal cooperation by the state government and
state-of-the art technology on most
Towels will be available in 14200 retail work on the plant would begin shortly.
modern sophisticated machines Mr.
outlets, within a year consisting of multi He said that the $1.5 billion, Beaulieu
Vineet Jain, Director-Girisons Group
brand outlets & Mafatlal Family Shops. International Group, is a leading global
stated that the major sale of towels in the
Girisons Clothing Industry is a part of player in floor covering business and is
country is from unorganized sector
50 years old Girisons Group. The Group setting up a plant in China with an
where quality is not satisfactory. Big
Is actively engaged in textiles, garments, investment of Rs 250 crores.
manufacturers of towels are in export
travel, real estate, E-education and E- The plant in UP would come up at Dewa
business and they supply surplus stock
commerce businesses. Road near the state capital for which the
with odd sizes in the market. With the
land has already been acquired by the
entry of Mafatlal in this field, the
company. It would manufacture
consumer will have a wider choice and
extrusion of PP granules into yarn and
selection with best of qualities.
weaving carpet backings, said Arshad
Mafatlal Towels offer several
Iqbal. He said that their product which is
categories of towels to cater to the
currently imported would find ready
demand of discerning consumers. The
market among carpet weavers and
Oasis range of towels is made from high
flooring material manufacturers.
Being human to being citizen, need of steps like the information system,
an hour...!! complaint boxes, regular interactions etc
Source : foundation day of BMC taken by Sri Satyapal Singh for efficient
At the occasion of 54th foundation day control. The C.P requested Mumbaikars
.
celebration of BHARAT MERCHANTS' to be responsible citizen apart from being
CHAMBER, chief guest Dr. Sri Satyapal a good citizen. He clarified that a
Singh, Commissioner of Police, Mumbai responsible citizen keeps his eyes, ears &
emphasized the need for citizens to be nose open and informs any suspicious
vigilant and help the Police to help the activity to the police through anonymous business practice and other programs in
people of the city. President Yogendra complaint letter, emails, sms, letters etc. co-operation with Mumbai Police. BMC
Rajpuria & Trustee Rajiv Singal praised the He also emphasized the need of teaching also requested for seat in advisory
effective law and order control during his moral value system at school, college and committee of the Mumbai Police, so that
regime. Honorary Secretary Shiv even at business chamber level like stake holders are consulted before any
Kanodia congratulated his smooth and Bharat Merchants' Chamber. Honorary policy is formulated, and they can
incident free completion of 31st Dec. and Secretary Shiv Kanodia appreciated his recommend the needs of general
equated him to Narayan Murthy of Police valuable guidance and assured that he will citizens.
Force. Shiv Kanodia enumerated several ensure strengthening of CSR, fair
10. COVER STORY
India’s Policy on Infrastructure: Textile Parks, Power and CETP
Avinash Mayekar The main promoters in the ITP would be Industry
MD & CEO, Associations/Groups of Entrepreneurs
Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. The ITP should have maximum of 8 Separate Special
Purpose Vehicle (SPV) and shall be formed with the
Introduction representatives of Local Industry, Financial Institutions, State
Indian Textile industry is one of the major sectors of and Central Govts.
Indian economy, largely contributing to the growth of the The scheme targets industrial clusters/locations with
country's industrial sector in terms of export earnings. high growth potential, which require strategic interventions
However, in order to nourish this industry there has to be by way of providing world-class infrastructure support. An
facilities like road network, power, water and other ITP will have components like Land, Common
infrastructural aspects. Somehow, Indian Govt. has yet not Infrastructure, buildings for common facilities, factory
focused on policy framework required by the industry and buildings for production purposes and Plant & machinery
hence it is being created by the industrialists themselves. with flexibility in setting up to suit the local requirements. The
However, it means delays in getting land parcels, plenty of following are the elements of the project cost eligible for the
bottle necks in the systems and procedures and many grant:
obstacles in liaison with Govt. bodies.
In order to give a major thrust to the development of
textile industry in India, Govt. has now come out with
schemes like SITP which should create good infrastructure
,
with state-of-the-art facilities as per the guidelines.
Scheme for Integrated Textile Park (SITP)
SITP was launched by merging two schemes, namely,
Apparel Parks for Exports Scheme (APES) and the Textiles
Centre Infrastructure Development Scheme (TCIDS). The
primary objective is to provide the industry with world-class
infrastructure facilities for setting up their textile units and
facilitate them to meet international environmental and
social standards. The total project cost is funded through a
mix of Equity/Grant – from the Ministry of Textiles, State
Govt., State Industrial Development Corporation, Industry,
Project Management Consultant and Loan - from Banks/ Advantage India
Financial Institutions. Abundant availability of raw material (like cotton, silk,
The Government of India's (GOI) support under the jute etc.), growing domestic market, investor friendly govt.
Scheme by way of Grant or Equity will be limited to 40% of policies and availability of skilled manpower makes India an
the project cost, subject to a ceiling of Rs. 40 crores. GOI ideal location for investment in textiles. The major factors
support under the scheme will be generally in the form of affecting the viability of the textile park are availability of raw
grant to the SPV unless specifically decided to be equity. material and labour in the vicinity, well-equipped
However, the combined equity stake of GOI/State infrastructure in and around the park, availability of market
Govt./State Industrial Development Corporation, if any, and investor friendly govt. policies. Hence while selecting a
should not exceed 49%. However, GOI support will be location for a textile park; we need to consider parameters
provided at 90% of the project cost subject to a ceiling of Rs. like logistics, availability of raw material, skilled labour and
40 crore for first two projects in the States of Arunachal supervisory staff and nearness to targeted market.
Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, Presence of back-end resources, targeting suitable
Tripura, Sikkim and Jammu & Kashmir. customers, customer profiling, catering to customer needs,
creating state-of-the-art infrastructure are some of the
The pre-requisites for SITP differentiating factors for a textile park. Some of the strategies
The Integrated Textile Park (ITP) should have atleast 50 to be adopted to create a techno-economic viable textile
units park are
The land area should be minimum 100 acres Conducting market research globally and domestically
The aggregate investment in land, factory buildings and to understand the current demand-supply situation, assess
plant & machinery by the entrepreneurs in ITP shall be at any gaps in demand-supply, target new market segments and
least twice the cost of common infrastructure proposed for identity key growth areas, key product segments & key
the ITP business requirements
8 Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013
11. COVER STORY
Creating state-of-the-art infrastructure with facilities in Rajasthan, 2 each in Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh and 1
matching the international standards each in Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Tripura, Himachal Pradesh,
Determine the product mix of the park with appropriate Karnataka, Jammu and Kashmir and West Bengal.
land location & its details, location analysis, arriving at the Some of the established ITPs are Islampur Integrated
most beneficial investment and understand the overall Textile Park (Maharashtra), Latur Integrated Textile Park
requirement of infrastructure like CETP power, water,
, (Maharashtra), Gujarat Eco-Textile Park (Gujarat), Palladam
marketing hub and other facilities Hi-Tech Weaving Park (Tamil Nadu), Karur Textile Park
Mapping the quality of infrastructure provided by the Limited (Tamil Nadu), Madurai Integrated Textile Park (Tamil
competitors against the price offered by them and Nadu), Komarapalayam Hi-tech Weaving Park (Tamil Nadu),
positioning ourselves to be competitive Baramati Hi-tech Textile Park (Maharashtra), Doddaballapur
Existing parks under SITP Integrated Textile Park (Karnataka) and Vraj Integrated Textile
Till date 40 parks (Locations of which are shown in the Park (Gujarat).
map of India below) have been sanctioned under the 11th Some of the solutions proposed for the Govt. are to
Five Year Plan of which 24 have already started operations understand requirement of the industry, reserve land parcels
and have attracted investments of over Rs.18,880 crores. at appropriate places for Textile parks, and develop schemes
Below is the graph showing the grant in percentage received for mini parks of about 25 acres which can be developed for
by the 40 textile parks. specific requirements and to support the industry on merits.
Common Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP)
The textile processing industry which takes care of value
additions in the fabric is characterized by the high volume of
water required at various stages of processing and the range
of chemicals required for the various processes. These
processes generate tremendous amount of waste, the
nature of which depends on the type of textile facility, the
processes and technologies being involved, and the types of
fibres and chemicals used.
The waste generated from these processes needs to be
disposed correctly otherwise it causes environmental
pollution. This necessitates the need for effluent treatment
plant wherein the effluent generated in the process house
can be treated to such a level that it can be disposed of
without causing any damage to the environment.
The best case study to emphasize the significance of
effluent treatment plant is the Tirupur textile industry. In
Tirupur, the effluent generated from the bleaching and
dyeing units was discharged into the River Noyyal & River
Nallar. The two rivers are natural drainage courses that only
The 40 ITPs is estimated % Subsidy Received by the Parks carry water in the monsoon period. During the remainder of
to have an investment of Rs. the year, they used to carry only industrial effluents that
18,425 Crores with stagnate in the riverbeds and percolate into the
combined project cost of groundwater. As a result, the groundwater quality around
around Rs. 4,486 Crores and the cluster of bleaching and dyeing units was polluted to such
annual production of Rs. a level that it was unfit for domestic, industrial and agricultural
33,964 Crores. The grant activities.
sanctioned to the ITPs is Due to public pressure (especially the farmers), the
around 1,385 Crores with Rs. court intervened and closed the dyeing units several times
825 Crores of grant released since 1997. Recently, in June 2005, this took an ugly turn,
to these ITPs. The total no. of when the Chennai High Court ordered complete closure of
entrepreneurs or units in the ITPs are 1,893 and the total the dyeing units and slapped crores of rupees of
employment generated in the park is 6,16,388 (Direct: compensation to clean the environment on the dyeing units.
2,82,576 & Indirect: 3,33,812). This created a furore in the whole textile industry as this lead
Govt. has sanctioned Rs. 2,100 crores to set up 21 new to more problems when the demand for the processed
textiles wherein ITPs would leverage an investment of over fabrics was increasing.
Rs. 9,000 crores, provide employment to nearly 4 lakh However, at present all Dyeing & Processing units are
workers. Of the 21 units approved, 6 are in Maharashtra, 4 using 100% Zero Discharge technology and units in Tirupur
Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013 9
12. COVER STORY
created and generating more than 2000 MW in Wind Mill or there is shortage of power. Shortage of power in textile
Energy. Both Common Effluent Treatment Plants (CETPs) cluster leads to load shedding thereby leading to drop in
and Individual units are following this ZLD technology and production. SSI's are unable to sustain in these conditions
are meeting the requirements of the trade and servicing the and this leads to the closure of the units.
requirements. More than 50% of total units are running, 494
States Rs./ Unit
Dyeing units and 162 bleaching units were there before
closing down due to court order. There are 16 CETPs under Maharashtra 7.01
operation out of 18 now. Punjab 4.95
Below is the picture of River Noyyal at Tirupur which Tamil Nadu 5.50
looks visibly cleaner downstream of Tirupur (inset) after the
Rajasthan 6.25
city's dyeing factories were shut in February:
Gujarat 5.00
Karnataka 5.50
Andhra Pradesh 3.97
The combined net profit of BSE Sensex companies in
the sector fell from Rs 5,166 crores in 2010-11 to Rs 1,845
crores in 2011-12, which is a decline of 64%. As cited by DK
Nair, secretary general, CITI, the financial results of 287
textile companies listed on the BSE for 2011-12 have shown
a sharp decline in net profits during the year compared to the
previous year, despite a growth in net sales. This is indeed a
worrying trend that shows a combination of increasing input
costs and declining profits.
To balance our demand and supply of power, we must
take into account the supply of power from the generation
CETP is the concept of treating effluents by means of a or HT grid to the specific machinery, increase supply by
collective effort mainly for a cluster of small scale industrial selecting secure & uninterrupted power supply, checking the
units. The main objective behind setting up of a CETP in a voltage profile and going for cost effective power. While
cluster is eliminating the need of effluent treatment plants in planning the supply of power, we should also consider the
individual process house which has following advantages: cost of infrastructure required to bring the power from the
Saving in capital and operating cost of treatment plants grid to the factory premises, power losses and any other
Availability of land at ease concern to the environment. We should reduce demand by
Disposal of treated waste water & sludge becomes monitoring and controlling demand, optimizing energy
more organized consumption, improving productivity, building capacity and
Reduced burden of various regulatory authorities in training human resources.
ensuring pollution control requirements
Some of the solutions are suggested to the textile
industry for implementation of CETPs. The State Pollution
Control Boards should prescribe standards for discharging
effluents and conduct regular jar tests and submit to CETP .
Govt. should come out with CETPs at most of the State
Industrial Development Corporations to facilitate good
quality infrastructure. No industrial park should be allowed
without CETP Build–own–operate–transfer (BOOT)
.
should be adopted for CETP as well. BOOT is a form of
project financing, wherein a private entity receives a
concession from the private or public sector to finance,
design, construct, and operate a facility stated in the
concession contract. This enables the project proponent to
recover its investment, operating and maintenance
expenses in the project.
Power Generation and Distribution
Electricity is one of the major components contributing
to the hassle-free operations of the textile units. Textile
industry is bound to suffer if cost of power (diesel) increases
10 Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013
13. COVER STORY
Energy cost is based on two part tariff – fixed charges and consumption charges. Billing parameters are based on FAC charges,
TOU charges, penalties/incentives and electricity duty. If we plot a load curve for the measured power data for entire day for a
week, we can observe from the graph that the power variations are with high troughs and crests which indicate fluctuations in the
power received by the unit. The energy losses can be reduced by plotting the energy data against production and understanding
the fixed energy consumption. One more graph can be plotted by plotting cumulative data of past 12 months of the production
against cumulative data of past 12 months of the energy. With the help of these 2 graphs, power factor can be improved. To
understand the demand side of power, month wise data of maximum load (KVA), connected load (KVA) should be plotted in to a
graph and the actual gap regarding power issues should be identified.
Energy
Monitoring System
Peak Load
Reduction
Demand side
Re-scheduling of
Management
load
Base Load
Reduce Demand Reduction
Energy
Conservation
GAP Technical
Intervention Energy Efficiendcy
PowerInstallation Training
Increase Supply
Condition
Evaluation
Capacity Building
Automation
Renewable Purchase Obligation (RPO) has been consider various land parcels; all equipped with
enforced wherein certain % of total power consumed by infrastructure either for textile parks (or mini parks of 25
Obligated Entities should be renewable energy based. If acres each) or through various industrial corporations. Govt.
RPO is not complied with, then amount equivalent to the should give major emphasis on clearing all statutory
number of RECs at Forbearance Price should be deposited requirements on fast track basis. In short it can be concluded
by Obligated Entity. For complying with RPO, three options as:
are available: 1) Invest in Renewable Energy Power Projects, ITP scheme: ITP scheme is industry friendly, easy to
2) Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates and 3) Purchase implement and can generate interest in the industry. Hence
Merchant Power. this scheme should continue and generate investment and
Some of the solutions are suggested for power employment opportunities in the Indian textile industry. It
problems to be jointly considered by textile industry and also may have a module of land parcel of 25 acres which can
government bodies. Textile industry should be given serve as a Mini Textile park which can be created by existing
continuous and quality power supply. Government should textile entrepreneurs for their own expansions or for giving it
ensure textile industry to have no power cuts and shut to others as well.
downs with uniform rates across country. Various sources of CETP: Govt. should be completely involved in
power and new energy development techniques should be developing infrastructure. CETP should be made mandatory
explored. We should continuously monitor production and in any industrial park/ textile hub. CETPs may operate on
energy consumption and understand our needs. BOOT principal.
Power: Special focus on power sector needs to be given
Conclusion to fulfill industrial need which is 24x7 especially for textile
Looking at all these concerns, we need to devise a industry. Entrepreneurs should focus on various
comprehensive strategy for a better Indian textile industry. methodologies to reduce power tariff. Renewable Energy
The infrastructure requirements are huge and we need to Obligation could be made mandatory in the coming days.
Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013 11
14. Bombay Rayon Fashions Limited
Islampur park
We interviewed companies for their take on SITP's,
Power, Pollution and more…Here, we have an Exclusive
Interview with Mr. S.N.Todi, Commercial Advisor of
Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd. BRFL is a vertically integrated
textile company, engaged in the manufacture of a wide range
of fabrics and garments from state of the art production
facilities. BRFL owns Islampur Integrated Textile Park Pvt.
Ltd. (IITPL, near Sangli) and Latur Integrated Textile Park T.V.C: Please tell us about BRFL's factory set-up in the
Pvt. Ltd. (LITPL). They are soon going to start work on Parks with the production and employment details
their 3rd park in Kagal (Kolhapur). S.N.T.: In IITP we have weaving, garmenting, garment
,
washing, and packaging. In LITP we have garment and
,
Mr. S.N. Todi garment washing, value-added machines, embroidery
Commercial Advvisor of plants. In Kagal, it will be Knitting- Yarn based textiles
Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd. factories.
Ÿ Production till date @ LITP
T.V.C: You throw light on the Govt. SITP's and how it Garments: 6.38 lacs pcs, Total value - Rs.1.356 lacs.
benefits the Common Man? Manpower: Garment Units -1170, Washing Units - 14,
Total Manpower – 1184
S.N.T.: SITP's benefit everybody and in the end everyone
Ÿ Production till date @ IITP
comes out a winner.
Weaving: Grey and dyed fabric - 267.92 lacsmtrs. Total
ŸCommon Man - It generates substantial employment in
value - Rs. 16,872 lacs
the vicinity. Moreover, it has a large potential for
Garments: 42.93 lacs pcs. Total value - Rs. 9,230 lacs
employment especially for Women in case of Garmenting.
Total product value: Rs.26,102 lacs at the Park.
Ÿ Textile industry Entrepreneurs / Owners- It leads to new
Manpower: Direct employment: 2042, Indirect
venturing in the Textile Parks. It motivates them to avail the
employment: 130. Total: 2172
benefits under the Scheme and subscribe and participate due
to ready infrastructure and common utilities and facilities T.V.C: What is your take on the Power supply in the Parks
available. or in general?
ŸGovernment & Associations- The Textile Parks generate
S.N.T.: Power Cuts, failures and disruptions are required to
and contribute to the exchequer to the Govt. and
be regulated with modern transmission and distribution
development in the vicinity and to the bodies associated with
systems to reduce the Industry's sufferings and deliver timely
training of skills and development amongst the workers
results.
T.V.C: Please tell us about BRFL Parks. T.V.C: What are the measures taken by BRFL to be
S.N.T.: BRFL has successfully completed and promoted two environment friendly since Textile Industry generates
parks; one at Islampur (IITP) and the other at Latur (LITP) in plenty of effluents? How can India control and discard
Maharashtra. It has also got an approval for one more park at hazardous chemicals in area
MIDC-Kagal (Kolhapur) and it is ready to take-off shortly S.N.T.: Yes, sadly Textile Industry generates plenty of
effluents while processes like dyeing, processing, printing,
sizing and washing of garments. It also generates effluents by
way of High BDS in the return water line from boiler and
gases/smoke in air pollution by hot exhaust gases. Pollution
Control Boards have prescribed norms and limits to treat
each effluent and this can only be controlled by regular
monitoring and civic sense by all.
Latur Park We have installed a Sewerage Treatment Plant (STP)
and Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) at Islampur since we have
T.V.C: When did BRFL receive permission for the set-up
garment washing in that Park. We also have taken ownership
of the parks?
to control and discard hazardous chemicals from weaving
S.N.T.: For Islampur Integrated Textile Park Pvt. Ltd. (IITPL) and washing operations and are being regulated to dispose
and Latur Integrated Textile Park Pvt. Ltd. (LITPL) we got such waste in areas as prescribed.
th rd
permission on 29 May, 2008. For the 3 park at Kagal, we We have been trying to build up Green Zones around
got approval on 08.11.2011. the Parks. We have planted nearly 5000 trees in the Park at
We took 3 yrs to complete our projects at Islampur and IITP alone and similar at LITP too in the rocky lands.
Latur. We expect the same for the plant at Kagal.
12 Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013
15. COVER STORY
Chiripal Group
Special interview: Chiripal Group: Directors Jaiprakash
Chiripal and Mr. Yogesh Thaker
Chiripal Group is a vertically integrated enterprise having
manufacturing facilities for POY, Texturising, Cotton
Spinning, Denim Weaving, Knitting and Processing, Home
Furnishing, Garmenting, Retail and own Vraj Integrated
Textile Park Limited (VITPL), Ahmedabad.
Technical textiles, weaving and allied sectors like washing,
Mr. Jaiprakash Chiripal embroidery etc. We have generated approximately 3000-
MD of Chiri pal Group 4000 employment till now, directly and indirectly through
our park.
T.V.C.: What is the reason behind choosing Ahmedabad
T.V.C.: Could you throw light on the Govt. SITP's and for the Park?
how is it beneficial?
JC & YT: Ahmedabad is a mega city and has a long history of
JC & YT: These Parks are for SME's and work on “Plug and textiles. It has excellent resources like excellent rail & road
Play” concept with ready availability of all facilities required network, air connectivity, hotels, continuous water supply,
for successful functioning of textile business. They offer the well spread drainage system and uninterrupted power
user enterprises, benefits of “cluster economies” and great supply. It is on the path of development with mega projects
opportunity for SME's to grow together along with the seeing the light of the day every moment. Gujarat is a raw
industry and achieve their business goals. material hub for cotton, nearness to processing cluster in
T.V.C.: Please tell us about Chiripal Group's Park set-up. Narol for weaving and garmenting units. Proximity to city
JC & YT: We have set-up Vraj Integrated Textile Park Limited also makes availability of business resources. This is beneficial
(VITPL) in Ahmedabad. We received Textile Park permission to the entire city, state and country. As the Industry says, “A
in 2006 and completed the park in 2012. The Park is now true value for money destination for the textile
completely ready. VITPL is designed to set-up garmenting, manufacturing sector.”
SVG Fashions Limited
Exclusive interview with Mr. Sandiip Agarwwal, MD of industry ranging from various types of yarns to sports wear,
SVG Fashions Ltd. knits, embroideries, prints, for home textiles and dress
Mr Sandiip Agarwwal heads ‘Karma’ the home textile materials. Textile Parks are like Malls where everything is
division of SVG. SVG Fashions Ltd. is a part of the diversified available in one place. So textile buyers also get to see vertical
SVG that is Shree Venkateshwar Group. It has a vertically and and lateral integrated processes for textile products.
laterally integrated manufacturing set-up with in-house Everything under one roof makes the park more lucrative
R & D labs and design studios. and exciting.
T.V.C.: Where is SVG looking to set-up a Park and what
Mr. Sandiip Agarwwal are the plans for the same?
MD, SVG Fashions Ltd.
SA: We are looking to set-up Park in Jhagadia village, near
Surat and Baroda, Gujarat. Jhagadia is a place where cotton
and polyester raw materials are easily available. We have
T.V.C.: Could you throw light on the Govt. SITP’s and already acquired 50 Acres of land in Jhagadia in GIDC area a
how is it beneficial? year back. If approved, the Park cost is estimated to be
SA: SITP is a Single Window Scheme for SME’s and a cost around Rs. 60-70 crores.
saving scheme. It is a common platform to share resources,
synergise the activity of various stages of production, T.V.C.: What type of factories is SVG planning for the
maintenance, packaging and distribution. It benefits all intended Park?
SA: We are planning for all sectors of value chain from raw
manufacturers and also professionals related to the industry.
material to finished goods. In this manner our park members
T.V.C.: Does SVG own any park or SEZ? If No, is SVG will get their raw materials and services on time. As we are
planning to invest in any Parks and why? also into exports, we are aware that reaching export
SA: We do not own a Park yet. We had applied for a Park but deadlines is sometimes really difficult in a country like India
still haven’t’ received Govt’s approval. SVG’s presence and where raw materials and finished goods are far way from
interest in setting up a Textile Park is for a good cause. Being each other. Having raw material manufacturers within the
skilled players in the value chain in the textile segment makes park will prove to be a boon for the complete value chain in
our company an ideal candidate for setting up an SITP We . terms of timely delivery and quality control because feedback
have experience across the entire value chain of the textile will be immediately available to the seller.
Textile Value Chain | October-December 2012 13
16. COVER STORY
Rishabh Metal & Chemicals Pvt. Ltd
Special Interview with Mr. Rishabh Jain, MD Rishabh T.V.C.: Is your future plan for addressing concerns for
Metals & Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. being cost effective and modern?
Rishabh Metals & Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. (RMC) is a diverse RJ: We are planning new range of products; in one, the waste
company manufacturing a range of specialty chemicals, coagulates in liquid form with different combination of
equipments for specialized applications in various industry chemicals. We have a research laboratory in Jalgaon. We do
segments including water, waste water treatment, textiles, regular in-house research as well as outsource through
paper, etc. In Textiles, they treat Waste Water which is various university like ICT, scientists and industry consultants.
Effluent Treatment given after dyeing and washing the In this way, we get a great combination of knowledge,
fabrics. guidance and advice.
Mr. Rishabh Jain T.V.C.: There are always substitutes for any product.
MD Rishabh Metals & Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. Substitute for your chemical is other chemical material
like Ozone treatment, amongst many others. Also the
biggest machinery agent in India is marketing Biological
T.V.C.: What challenges does RMC face? How does RMC System where no chemicals are required. How is RMC
intend to address them? facing this competition and do you feel chemical
RJ: The challenge we face is to give the cheapest product and treatment is out-dated?
at the same time be a quality service provider. As per RJ: One needs to look at Cost Benefit Ratio. If any machinery
Pollution Control Board strict effluent treatment requires provides the same solution, then what is the one time
water for treatment. But the industry is still not ready for machine cost, instalment cost, adding the running cost (need
increase in their budget for the treatment. So solution is 'Be to calculated fix cost and variable) about other treatment,
cost effective and be sustainable in the industry'. Our clients same cost benefit and advantage and disadvantage of each
are Alok Industries, Welspun, Bombay Rayon and many treatment, etc. So it all depends on buyers' requirements,
more... feasibility, need, urgency, availability and many other factors.
We don't fear competition as we are confident about our
T.V.C.: Industry is passing through a difficult time. product.
Treatment costs have increased. How is RMC addressing
this issue? How is RMC handling industry reactions? T.V.C.: RMC have certified drinking water plant?
RJ: Yes, we know, we also understand industry problems and RJ: Yes, without certificate we can not supply water to
reactions. Globally, chemical costs have shot up by 70%. anybody. We have NSF certification, which is applicable
There is serious competition in the chemical industry; few across the world including countries like US, Europe and
large players and many small players. Depending upon the other Asian countries. NSF is US based certification for
chemical, sometimes we bear the cost and sometimes the drinking water. Every year, there is an Audit check by US
customer. We are also working on various technologies; authorities without any prior notification. If the water and
treatment balancing cost effectiveness by combing Organic plant are not up to standards, they cancel the certificate.
and Inorganic Coagulants which will be 95% cost effective to Since the past two years we have a plant in Jalgaon,
industry, amongst other methods. Maharashtra.
Views of Industrialists regarding SITP's, Power, Pollution and more… - Mr. Uttam V. Jain, Director of PDEXCIL
Water Pollution: Large-scale garment manufacturing units deal with them.
have several technological options to combat with the Evaluation of existing exhaust systems.
pollution problems. Besides having effective in - house Consideration of exhaust stream pre-cooling.
Effluent Treatment Plants or using Common Treatment Consideration, comparison and selection of optimum
Plants, other process technology options are available where Air Pollution Control equipment.
the water used itself is very minimal. In many Industrial areas Dealing with obnoxious odour: The problem with odour is
the effluent water is purified by treatment and recovered that it is not practically measurable. Odorous molecules
over 90% for re-use. Currently, the Reverse Osmosis attach themselves to the particles of smoke and can be
Technology and other Ion Exchange processes are in vogue. carried great distances from their point of origin, causing
Air Pollution: The major air pollution problem in the textile complaint. When air pollution equipment has abated the
industry occurs during the finishing stages where various smoke, the odour molecules have no vehicle to carry them.
processes are employed for colouring or coating the fabrics. That is why savvy plant managers find that the installation of
In order to take measures to check the air pollution it is smoke abatement equipment sometimes solves the odour
necessary to: problem, too. Relatively inexpensive equipment is also
Analyse chemicals so that systems can be fine-tuned to available to address the problem directly.
14 Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013
17. COVER STORY
Dr. Talukdar, VP of Kusumgar Corporates
Park: Technical Textiles needs separate textile parks in India as their needs are specialized. As of now Kusumgar is not planning for
any Park.
Pollution: In India, we don't give any importance to pollution. The norms are not clearly specified and hence not strictly followed.
Power: There should be uniform policy maintained throughout the country. Stern action should be taken for stealing power.
Mr. Aditya Biyani, Marketing Director of Damodar Thread Ltd.
Textile Park: Specialization is the need of the hour. Textile Parks will play a vital role for overall growth of the Indian Textile Sector
particularly small and medium Scale industries. Both, sourcing and marketing will become economical, efficient and prompt which
will help organisations to use their resources efficiently.
Pollution: Right infrastructure needs to be built to treat the effluents released from dyeing and processing units. Serious measures
have to be taken very soon. It is not possible for individual organisations to build the infrastructure themselves due to capital
constraints. Textile Parks will play a very critical role since it is mandatory for textile parks to have common effluent plants, recycling
centres etc.
Power: Across India, infrastructure for power is being created. Many companies are now installing their own power generation
capacities. It is very expensive for organisations to have plants closed due to power cuts.
Mr. Kirti Shah, MD of Textile World, Mumbai
Market Analysis: Textile business is changing with fashion and production is entirely driven by it. People who are technical qualified
with fashion will only survive. In today's highly complex and changing consumer marketplace, brands and retailers need to be sure
that the products they deliver meet consumer expectations. Along with that, they also need to meet the required safety, regulatory
and government standards, domestically and globally. Textile testing is an integral part of it; Good quality can be achieved either by
meeting the standard norms as devised by the buyer or passing the complete parameters for further shipping out the goods to the
end user.
Power and Pollution: Many production centres like Ichalkaranchi, Erode, and Tirupur are facing problems of power and loosing
valuable orders. Textile industry is shifting to Maharashtra, Gujarat, Bihar & U.P Southern mills are shifting to Gujarat & Maharashtra
.
due to power cut problems. In Gujarat, Jetpur is suffering from water problem which is the biggest industry near Rajkot. Govt is not
bothered to resolve this. Due to the Central Govt rule for water pollution, in Ahmedabad, all factories remain closed for one
month every six months. Nobody is seriously interested in taking actions & regularizing norms. About half of the world's waste
water problems are linked to the production of textile goods including many of the chemicals which cause harm. Textile has grown
up to the peak of the consumer needs which requires the assured quality & sustainable characteristics to further meet the
competency in the market.
Shri Deshbandhu Kagzi, President of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce
Textile Parks: SITP's have several benefits as similar types of manufacturing are based at one place. The Common facility Centre at
the Parks provides technical solutions to the process with knowledge sharing rather than competing with each other in isolation.
They will facilitate good investment opportunity, employment generation and increase in quality textiles production. SITP's are very
attractive as the very word of the 'park' is Integrated Textile Park; it definitely helps in backward as well as forward integration for the
products. Thus, it is very useful across the value chain.
Water Pollution: The Garment Industry is not as polluting as it is made out to be. Majority of the units convert finished fabric into
garment without going for garment wet processing i.e garment dyeing and printing processes. Textile industry is one of the leading
consumers of water. It consumes about 3.2% of total consumption of water for various processes such as sizing, scouring,
bleaching, dyeing, printing and other finishing processes. The used water containing various constituents such as dyes, chemicals
etc gets contaminated if released directly into the sources of water. This is resulting into water pollution. Nowadays the use of
synthetic fibres, polymers and finishes by textile industry is increasing at rapid rate. Since many of these products are resistant to
biological degradation, more care is required in their treatment. Pollution Control Boards have norms and methods in place to
monitor the ETPs and CEPTs. The awareness level amongst the Textile Industries has considerably increased after the incidences at
Tirupur and Rajasthan.
Power: Power cuts and high costs are main hindrance in development. It is also the negative aspect of the industrial scenario. The
captive power generation units with natural gas are part solutions to the problem. The Central Government has started the
National Grid Concept which is yet to materialise in true sense. The Power Tariff and its availability for the industry at any state
should be at par to offer level playing field for the entrepreneurs as well as real growth of the Industry. The Centralize system for
power distribution will go a long way in industrial growth and healthy atmosphere.
Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013 15
18. COVER STORY
Pollution Redressal Policy
Mr. C. N. Shivramakrishnan Waste water characteristics: Waste water quality can be
Bsc Tech, C Col FSDC defined by physical, chemical and biological characteristics.
(Chartered Colourist) Physical parameters include color, odour, temperature,
Senior Textile Advisor solids (residues), turbidity, oil, and grease. Solids can be
Water pollution control is concerned with the further classified into suspended and dissolved solids (size
protection of the aquatic environment and the and settle ability) as well as organic (volatile) and inorganic
maintenance of water quality in lakes, reservoirs, (fixed) fractions. Chemical parameters associated with the
streams, rivers, estuaries and the seas. The desired or organic content of wastewater include the biological oxygen
required water quality that must be maintained depends on demand (BOD) and Chemical oxygen demand (COD), total
the uses to be made of the water. Therefore, water quality organic carbon (TOC) and total oxygen demand (TOD).
criteria must be available for alternative beneficial uses if the BOD is a measure of the organics present in the water,
adequacy of various pollution control measures is to be determined by measuring the oxygen necessary to bio-
assessed properly. Domestic water supply, industrial water stabilize the organics (the oxygen equivalent of the
supply, agricultural water supply, water for recreational use biodegradable organics present).Inorganic chemical
and water for fish, other aquatic life and wild life are well parameters include salinity, hardness, pH, acidity, alkalinity,
established beneficial uses. Once the criteria necessary for iron, manganese, chlorides, sulphates, sulphides, heavy
the protection of the various beneficial uses have been metals (mercury, lead, chromium, copper and zinc) nitrogen
established, it is possible to set standards for surface water (organic, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate), phosphorous.
with the stipulation that no discharge shall create conditions Bacteriological parameters include coli forms, fecal coli
that violate them. These standards are known as receiving forms, specific pathogens and viruses.
water or stream standards. Water and energy requirements during the processing and
Different states have taken the approach of classifying manufacturing of cotton textiles are tremendous. It can take
streams in several categories in accordance with the highest up to 200 litres of water to produce, dye and finish one
beneficial use to be made of the stream. This use is based, to kilogram of textile. Wastewater from textile production is
a certain extent, on existing conditions. Effluent standards often difficult to treat as it contains high concentration of
pertain directly to the quality of the treated wastewater dyes, BOD, total organic carbon, dissolved solids and high
discharged from a sewage treatment plant. Designing content of toxic metal (chromium, copper, cobalt, lead, zinc,
industrial discharge standards should reflect the numerical etc.)
compromise between what can be achieved to prevent Colour removal technologies: Considerable amounts of
environmental pollution and sustainable development. They water and energy are used in the processing of different
should involve categorical limitations for specific sources. materials in the textile production chain. Water is also used in
Difficulty in enforcing receiving water standards arises when huge quantities during cotton cultivation. An area of great
the combined load of several discharges exceeds the self environmental concern is about the amount of water
purification capacity of the receiving waters. Micro pollutants discharged and the chemical load it carries. Other important
represent the major concern for industrial effluents. A micro concerns are energy consumption, air emissions, solid
pollutant- based sub categorization is needed for an effective wastes and odours, which can create significant problems to
control of industrial effluents. environment. Air emissions are usually collected at their
In recent years different approaches have been point of origin. Because they have long been controlled in
discussed to tackle man-made environmental hazards. different countries, there is good historical data on air
Clean technology, eco-mark and green chemistry are some emissions from specific processes. This is not the case with
of the most highlighted practices in preventing and or emissions to water. The various streams coming from the
reducing the adverse effect on our surroundings. different processes are mixed together to produce a final
Environmental issues associated with textile industry effluent whose characteristics are the result of a complex
effluents include: combination of factors such as, the types of fibres and make-
ups processed, the techniques applied and the types of
Ÿ Residual dyestuffs-toxicity,colour, Ÿ Auxiliary agents for dyeing- chemicals and auxiliaries used.
biodegradability toxicity and biodegradability Total water management: Conventionally, water coming
Ÿ Halogenated organic Ÿ Surfactants and synergistic into a process plant, which generates effluents, are treated
compounds (AOXs) relationship with toxicants and discharged. In Total Water Management (TWM), the
Ÿ Heavy metal contamination (Cr, Ÿ Finishes - toxicity and effluents are treated and recycled. Water and valuable by-
Cu, Zn) biodegradability products are reclaimed and reused. Physical, chemical and
Ÿ Salts in effluent which is to be Ÿ Elevated temperatures
biological treatments are given to the effluents. The
reused for land application Ÿ High levels of total oxidized
advantages of TWM are multifold. The inlet water quantity
Ÿ High BOD levels. sulphur (TOS)
and the effluent discharge quantity are reduced. So through
16 Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013
19. COVER STORY
TWM, by recycling the effluent for process requirements, effluents containing benign contaminants or being treated to
the discharge is also minimized considerably. a level guaranteeing that the receiving stream is not
Developing a treatment strategy: A set of cost effective on- impacted.
site unit operations and processes can be installed in areas Discharge to sewer: Effluent wastewater treatment
which require effluents treatment. These remedial operations are sent to the sewer, which is connected to the
techniques consist of preliminary and primary process common effluent treatment plant. The wastewater is subject
equipment, instrumentation and control units related to the to municipal pretreatment containing constituents that the
textile processing and the waste water characteristics. CETP can effectively degrade.
Common outlets for waste water discharges are as follows: Offsite disposal: Effluents and other residues (sludge)
Discharge to surface water: Effluent from waste water from wastewater treatment operations are transported to
treatment operations is piped directly to a surface water an offsite treatment facility. The handler determines the level
body and is subject to local regulations. Effluent limitations of pretreatment required for off site disposal. This method is
depend on the ambient water quality criteria, the conditions appropriate for low volume, high toxicity effluents and
of the receiving stream and the amount of mixing available. residuals. Effluents and residuals in this category are usually
Discharge to surface water is usually a viable outlet for prohibited from discharge through other outlets.
Criteria for selection of an ETP
system
Effluent Character Details of ETP Recurring Expenditure
1 Characteristics of raw effluent Tentative cost of Treatment Plant
1 ETP Cost 1Quantity of chemicals for treatment &
2 Design and treatment unit size cost per day
(m3/day and m3/hour) 2 Disposal cost
3 Electrical & mechanical equipment 2 Power (Electricity-KWH) & cost per
3 Method of flow measurement at final day
outlet cost
3 Manpower cost per day
4 Scheme descriptions with flow chart 4 Total treatment cost.
5 Characteristics of treated effluent
Selecting appropriate treatment technologies: The Ÿ Insoluble substances that Ÿ Substances separable by degassing or
environmental impact of the textile industries is associated can be separated physically stripping
with its high water consumption as well as by the color, with or without flocculation. Ÿ Substances requiring a redox reaction
variety and amount of chemicals which are released in the Ÿ Organic substances Ÿ Substances that can be concentrated
wastewater. Waste waters from dyeing and finishing separable by adsorption by ion exchange or reverse osmosis
Ÿ Substances separable by Ÿ Substances that can be precipitated as
operations in the textile industry are generally high in both
precipitation insoluble iron salts or that can be chelated.
color and organic content. The waste water from the textile
Ÿ Acids and bases
industry is known to be strongly coloured with presence of
large amount of suspended solids, broadly fluctuating pH, Substances treatable by Biological methods: Effluents require
high temperature, besides high chemical oxygen demand. some form of treatment prior to disposal to sewer, river or
Colour is the first contamination to be recognized in this sea. Prior to the installation of any end-of-pipe treatment
waste water. There are several methods for colour removal method, it is essential to carry out segregation of the effluent
like Adsorption, coagulation, flocculation, precipitation, streams to separate the contaminated streams from the
polyelectrolyte, biological process, ionizing/ gamma relatively clean streams for treatment. This results in a more
radiation. Although there are many options, each one of the effective treatment system as a smaller volume of waste
technologies has its limitations, hence combination of water is treated (resulting in lower capital and operating
technologies is generally preferred for cost effective colour costs) and it allows for the use of specific treatment methods
removal. Before implementing any in plant controls or pre- rather than trying to find one method to treat a mixture of
treatment alternatives, the industry should first explore ways waste with different characteristics. The segregated clean
to reduce production of specific pollutants and then examine streams can then be reused with little, or no, treatment
the feasibility of recycling or reusing the wastewater elsewhere in the factory. There are two possible locations
generated during production. For example, the for treating the effluents, namely, at site or at common
concentrated solution obtained from cleanup operations can effluent treatment plant. The advantage of treatment at the
be recycled as part of starting materials for the next factory is that it could allow for partial or full re-use of water.
production run. Additional steps for reducing wastewater The following technologies can be used.
requiring treatment include good housekeeping practices, Zero Discharge Concept: In the past few decades plenty of
spill control measures such as spill containment enclosures progress has been made in the area of waste treatment.
and eliminating wet floor areas. The principal pollutants Chemical engineers are focusing on environmental concerns
affected by modifying industrial manufacturing processes and in the textile plant, mostly on monitoring the chemical
in plant treatment methods are as follows: content of waste water. Today, most waste water treatment
Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013 17
20. COVER STORY
Classification of treatments followed in textile effluent:
Primary Screening and sedimenting:Equalization Neutralization Coagulation
Secondary Aerated lagoon: Trickling filtration Activation of sludge Oxidation Anaerobic digestion
Tertiary Oxidation: Electrolytic precipitation Membrane separation Electrochemical process Ion exchange
Treatments Sequence Adsorption Thermal evaporation
plants work well and the focus is shifting towards additionally 6. The feasibility of establishing suitable collection and conveyance system in
minimizing the energy needed to run. The aim is to prevent the case of a common treatment facility.
the treatment of local emissions from causing damaging the Regardless of the treatment technology to be adopted,
greenhouse gas emissions which contribute to looming following parameters are necessary to achieve zero discharge.
global warming. In safety and environmental technology 1. Removal of grits and suspended limits
solids 5. Complete removal of colour
research, the focus of attention has shifted from local to 2. Removal of oil & grease, scum 6. Recovery of reusable water
global concerns over the years. Water losses which need to and other suspended matters 7. Treatment of reject (from reverse osmosis
be considered are disposals coming from the clean drains 3. Equalization and adjustment of pH system/blow out from evaporator).
system of the water/steam cycle. The Zero Discharge 4. BOD/COD levels are in control 8. Solid waste disposal and management.
Concept is designed to collect all kinds of clean drains and Conclusion: Fresh water is fast becoming scarce, forcing us to
blow down routing it to the condenser respectively the plan for recycling of treated waste water. Most industries are
condensate polishing plant. The regenerated condensate is generating wastewaters that are difficult to treat and are staring
fed back to the water/steam cycle. The result is a plant with at stringent discharge norms which are difficult to meet with
minimum water consumption. The concept of zero conventional technologies. Conventional effluent treatment
discharge signifies that the process water utilized in dyeing plant (ETP) has an array of equipments and chemical treatment
and bleaching operations are recovered for reuse to an process. Latest technologies ensure that all the effluent
extent that there is no discharge of effluent into the treatment processes like equalization, aeration, settling and
environment. decanting are carried out in a single tank. The final treated
A zero discharge treatment system design in textile effluents need stringent discharge norms with respect to carbon
processing should consider the following things: oxidation, nitrification, de- nitrification and bio-phosphorous
1. Quantity of the effluent to be solids (TSS), reduction in biological removal in line with European standards. Our biosphere is
treated. oxygen demand (BOD) for a given
2. Variability in time of the quantity effluent. under constant threat from continuing environmental pollution.
as well as quality of the effluent. 4. The upper and lower limits of Impact on its atmosphere, hydrosphere and lithosphere by
3. Unit processes suitable for performance of each unit process. anthropogenic activities on water, air and land have negative
achieving desired purposes (such as 5. The durability of the system to be influence over biotic and abiotic components on different
removal of total suspended adopted.
natural eco-systems. We need to act before it is too late.
News: Tirupur first to adopt Zero Liquid Discharge Technology
Source: Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) via www.fibre2fashion.com
Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman of AEPC, recently announced to this ZLD technology, some marginal percentage was
that Tirupur is the first textiles cluster in India to arrive at the being used after colour processing - in the form of salt water
Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) Technology. He further as concentrated salt solution - called BRINE Solution re-use.”
proudly added on behalf of Dyers Association of Tirupur, “I He further informed that, on the energy front, we are facing
also declare that we created and generated more than 2000 problem in running the units. “We are incurring more
MW in Wind Mill Energy. That way too we are helping to operational cost due to heavy load shedding and due to
achieve Green Field Technology in power sector.” usage of diesel gensets,” he added.
It is to be noted that due to the High Court order, the On the Tirupur business acumen, Chairman AEPC said
Dyeing & Processing Industry in Tirupur had appalling that, “People here are very determined. They are very
problems and many units had to be shut. More than 50% of strong in continuing their established business. They will
total units are running. Approximately 494 Dyeing units and explore various ways and means to live-up to the
162 bleaching units were there before closing down due to expectations of their sourcing people both domestic and
court order. There are 16 CETPs under operation out of 18 international, even if they have to do business with minor
now. Now both Common Effluent Treatment Plants losses / minor margins, since this is a temporary phase and
(CETPs) and Individual units are following this ZLD we have to continue with textile business to go a long way.
technology and are successfully meeting the requirements of Tirupur traders are well bent people to achieve their goals in
the trade and servicing the requirements. spite of all the bottlenecks - like sudden increase in yarn
On the problem of water shortage, Dr. Sakthivel said: prices, sudden close-down of the Dyeing & Processing units
“As far as water is concerned, we are not facing any problem and to add to that economic slowdown in our traditional
since we are re-using the water up to 90%. Moreover, due markets i.e., USA & Europe.
18 Textile Value Chain | January - March 2013