how to instal a dsm turbo to a F22A honda engine

1. Version 1.0
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2. Table Of Contents
Kit Contents.......................................................... 3
Engine Prep........................................................... 4
Oil Pan ......................................................................................................................... 4
Oil Return Hole ................................................................................................... 4
Oil Return Fitting ............................................................................................... 5
Exhaust Removal.................................................. 6
Making Room for the Compressor ....................... 7
Oil Return Fitting - turbo ...................................... 7
Turbo, Manifold, o2 housing................................. 7
Fuel Injectors........................................................ 8
ECU - Engine management .................................. 9
Oil Feed Line......................................................... 9
Oil Drain Line ...................................................... 10
Intercooler .......................................................... 11
Charge Pipes....................................................... 12
Charge Pipe Pictures.......................................... 12
Blow Off Valve .................................................... 15
Vacuum Lines ..................................................... 16
Testing - Starting the car ................................... 16
Exhaust - Downpipe............................................ 17
Coolant Lines...................................................... 17
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3. Turbo Kit contents
Description Quantity
14b Turbo Charger 1
1st Gen DSM Turbo Manifold 1
1st Gen DSM o2 Housing 1
1st Gen DSM 450cc Injectors 4
Chipped ECU 1
Front Mount Intercooler 1
1st Gen DSM Blow Off Valve 1
Blow Off Valve Mounting pipe 1
Charge pipe Kit 1
Oil Feed and Return kit 1
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4. 1. Drain all oil from the engine. The more oil you can drain, the
cleaner the job will be.
2. Remove oil pan from the engine.
Figure 1.
3. With the oil pan removed, Dill a 5/8” diameter hole in the
location shown in Figure 2. As high on the oil pan as
possible.
Figure 2.
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5. 4. Locate brass fitting ‘A’ in figure 3. below. Here you have
two options. You can either bring the oil pan and fitting to
be welded. Or you can purchase “JB Weld” at your local
auto parts store. I have had great success with JB weld; as
long as it is mixed well, the surface is clean, and it is given
proper time to cure. Weld, or JB weld the brass fitting into
the oil pan, with the barbed section extruding from the pan.
This will be for the oil return from the turbo. Re-install oil
pan when complete.
Figure 3.
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6. 5. Remove the Exhaust header and downpipe should do
whatever is necessary to retain the flex pipe (i.e.. Cut the
exhaust). The flex pipe will be a vital part of your exhaust
system. If you have a custom or aftermarket exhaust with a
larger diameter than stock, make sure you get a
corresponding diameter flex pipe. This should also be taken
into consideration when having the downpipe fabricated.
Though not 100% necessary, replacing the gasket is a very
good idea.
Figure 4.
Figure 5.
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7. 6. This is probably the most difficult part of the entire
installation. You will need to grind away a portion of the
block webbing, in order for the compressor of the turbo to
fit. Remove the front torque mount from both the block and
the cross member. Using an angle grinder, or other
cutting/grinding tool, grind away the portion of the block
shown in figure 6.
Figure 6.
7. Bolt fitting ‘D’ in Figure 3 onto the bottom of the turbo
charger using gasket ‘E’. The location of fitting ‘D’ should be
fairly evident. Make sure it is snug.
8. Bolt the turbo manifold, turbocharger, and o2 housing
assembly to the engine block. Use the factory studs and
nuts. This may be a tight fit, and it may not go on perfectly
the first time. Keep playing with it until the manifold slides
on. (if you still cannot get the holes to line up, you may
need to enlarge some of the holes).
(See Figure 7.)
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8. Figure 7.
9. With the turbo and manifold all bolted up, we can now move
on to the fuel injectors. Remove the fuel rail and old
injectors. (This is beyond the scope of this guide; please
consult a repair manual for your car). You will notice that
there are 2 sets of seals for each of the injectors, a soft
seal and a hard seal. The inside hole diameter must be
enlarged slightly to fit the new 450cc fuel injectors. This
can be done very easily with a Dremel, or other rotary tool.
Repeat this process for all 4 injectors. Installation will now
be reverse of removal. Make sure the fuel rail is nice and
tight.
Figure 8.
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9. 10. Install the provided ECU. The ECU is located
underneath the passenger side rug on the interior of the car.
There is a large metal plate to protect the ECU. Unbolt the
plate, unplug the three harnesses from the ECU, and plug in
the new ECU. (A more detailed approach to removing and
installing the ECU can be found in your repair manual).
11. Install the oil feed line. Remove the oil pressure
sensor found on the back of the engine block approximately
1” above the oil filter. It has a black cover on it, with one
wire coming out. Pull off this black cap to expose the oil
pressure sensor. Remove the oil pressure sensor (see repair
manual). Using a generous portion of thread sealer, thread
the fitting labeled ‘C’ in Figure 3, into the old oil pressure
sensor location. Make sure it is nice and snug. Again using
thread sealer, thread the oil pressure sensor into one of the
holes on the fitting. Make sure it is snug. Next take the
fitting labeled ‘H’ in Figure 3, and thread it into the other
hole in fitting ‘C’. Thread one end up the steel braided line
labeled ‘F’ in Figure 3, onto fitting ‘H’ and run the steal line
up over the valve cover to the turbocharger. Thread fitting
‘G’ into the top most hole (opposite side of fitting ‘D’) of the
turbo charger. Finally, thread the end of the steel braided
line onto fitting ‘G’. Make sure all connections are tight.
This is your oil feed system.
Figure 9.
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10. 12. Thread the second brass fitting labeled ‘A’ in Figure 3
into fitting ‘D’ using thread sealer once again. Locate the
steel braided line labeled ‘B’ and connect each end to one
of the brass fittings ‘A’ both on the oil pan and the
turbocharger. Using the provided hose clamps ‘I’ clamp
each connection down as tight as possible. This is your oil
drain line.
Note: You may need to shorten the oil return line so that it
does not have any kinks or sharp bends in it. This is very
important as it is a gravity fed line. It should have a smooth
sweeping curved shape from the turbo to the oil pan.
Figure 10
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11. 13. Mount the Intercooler. Remove the front bumper (see
repair manual). You will see the power steering cooler,
located right in front of the A/C condenser. It is not
necessary, but it will help a great deal to relocate this
power steering cooler. I personally cut the input/output
lines, relocated it and then reconnected the input output
lines of the cooler with high strength power steering hose
and hose clamps.
Once the power steering cooler is out of the way, you will
have ample room to mount the intercooler. This will have to
be custom mounted. A good tip is to use the mounting tabs
provided on the intercooler along with some small “L”
brackets that can be found at home depot. This is one of
the harder parts of the installation as well. Find a way to
secure the intercooler.
Figure 11.
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12. 14. Construct the charge pipe system. Again, you will be
on your own with this part of the installation. Use the pipes
provided to construct an air tight path from the turbo outlet,
through the intercooler, and too the throttle body. The pipes
provided are a “Universal” set of charge pipes. They are not
cut to specifically fit the accord. Because of this additional
pipes or couplings may need to be purchased. Any coupling
that is not being used in the direct vicinity of the
turbocharger or exhaust manifold can be purchased at
home depot in the plumbing department or from
turbocharged cars in junkyards. If extra piping is needed
these too can be found on junk yard cars. This step will
take some time and some planning, but don’t get frustrated
it will all come together eventually.
The following is a collection of pictures to help you along
with the charge pipe design process.
Figure 12
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15. 15. Have the blow off valve (BOV) welded to the upper
charge pipe. The BOV should be approximately 18”-20”
away from the throttle body. If you have the BOV welded,
cut the flange off the black Blow off valve pipe supplied.
Cut a hold approximately 1”-1.25” in diameter in the desired
location on the charge pipes, have the flange welded to the
pipe, and bolt the blow off valve to the pipe. Please not that
the BOV it self is aluminum, be sure to use the proper
welding rod.
If you do not have access to a welder, there is a second
alternative. You can use the supplied BOV mounting pipe as
part of your charge pipes. The only difficulty here is that
you will need to purchase two 2.5” – 2” reducer pipes due to
the difference in pipe diameter, these can be purchased at
your local auto parts store.
Tip: When using the
mounting pipe as part of
your charge pipes I have
found that the most ideal
placement is right around
the battery where the
charge pipes penetrate the
sheet metal.
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16. 16. Connect the vacuum lines. Find the fuel pressure
regulator (see repair manual) find the vacuum line that is
attached to the FPR. Disconnect the vacuum line and install
a vacuum “tee” (these can be purchased at your local auto
parts store.). Using extra vacuum line, connect one end of
the tee to the nipple on the BOV, and one end of the T back
to the FPR. When standing in front of the car looking at the
engine, you will notice that there are 3 vacuum nipples just
above the throttle body on the passenger side of the intake
manifold. The nipple closest to the firewall will no longer be
in use due to the removal of the old air intake assembly.
Connect a vacuum line from this nipple, to the nipple on the
waste gate actuator. (The “spaceship” looking device
bolted to the turbochargers compressor housing). If you
have a boost gauge, you will need one more vacuum tee.
You can tee off almost any vacuum source.
17. At this point you should be able to start the car. Fill it
with oil and Let it idle for a few minutes and check for
Check engine lights (CEL) if you get a check engine light
proceed to pull the diagnostic code. To do this, consult your
repair manual. In the rare event that you have a CEL please
consult www.cb7tuner.com www.accordtuner.com or
Instant message “Ocean of Awesum” on AIM. Have the
diagnostic code ready.
After the car idles for a few minuets, check for leaks of any
kind, if there are no leaks, shut the car off.
Note: You may get an o2 sensor CEL due to the lack of
downpipe connecting to the exhaust, thus giving the o2
sensor nothing to read. Do not worry about this yet.
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17. 18. The car should now be completely drivable. Bring the
car to any local exhaust shop to have the downpipe made.
Usually the bigger diameter the better. An easy way to
connect the downpipe to the turbo is to find a junked DSM
and steal the downpipe flange from it. Have your downpipe
welded to this flange and bolt it to the o2 housing. If the
location of your stock o2 sensor becomes an issue, it can
easily be moved to the new DSM o2 housing. However the
wires will need to be lengthened to reach. This is actually a
more ideal location for the sensor.
19. This step is completely optional, but will definitely
extend the life of your turbo charger. You will notice that
there are 2 unused holes on the center section of the turbo.
(where the oil feed and return to connect.) These holes lead
to the coolant jacket. The turbocharger reaches extremely
high temperatures during operation which could boil the oil
flowing through it causing what is known as “coking”. This
is a grungy residue left behind by boiled oil. It is absolutely
no good for the turbo. To help prevent coking, run coolant
through the turbo. On the throttle body you will notice a red
braided line; this is the throttle body coolant. Disconnect
this line from the throttle body. Purchase extra coolant
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18. hose at your local auto parts store, along with two barbed
fittings that thread into the turbo charger and any
additional connectors you will need. Run the throttle body
coolant to one side of the coolant jacket (which side is not
very important). Then, from the turbo, run another coolant
line back to the original position of the coolant line on the
throttle body. Here you are basically making a “loop”
through the turbo with coolant.
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