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Piedmontese winemaker
1. VINTAGES
welcome october 15
pg.2
PIEDMONT &
TUSCANY
pg.16
ARGENTINA
PREMIUM WINES
pg.26
LOCAL TALENT
NIAGARA RIVER WINERIES
pg.22
WHISKY
WISE plus...
PRODUCT INFO & TASTING NOTES pages 30-47
TEAR-OUT SHOPPING LIST pages 49-50
VINTAGES SPECIAL OFFERS pages 54-55
* vintages.com
2. DOUBLE
TAKE
From signature grapes to
winemaking traditions,
Italy’s grand Piedmont and
Tuscany regions have forged
two unique identities through
the centuries.
The great Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany have one thing in
common: each has a single grape variety that defines its identity. In
Piedmont, it’s the diva Nebbiolo; in Tuscany, the sturdier Sangiovese. Yet,
like France’s Burgundy and Bordeaux, these two dynamic regions’ approach-
es to life and winemaking couldn’t be more different. Join VINTAGES as
we explore these spectacular winegrowing regions, meet two of their top
producers, and introduce you to a host of fine wines.
2 VINTAGES
4. A TALE OF TWO FAMILIES
Though one proffers wine samples from inside a humble farmhouse kitchen
while the other operates from palatial premises, the Fenocchios of Piedmont and
the Antinoris of Tuscany are both driving forces in their respective regions.
The Fenocchio winery, run by Claudio (pictured) and Alberto Fenocchio, encompasses
about 12 hectares in various locations including their renowned Bussia vineyards.
The Fenocchios of Piedmont
Cherished traditions born of simple roots
It was started as a tiny venture in 1864 by Stefano Fenocchio,
and the Fenocchio winery remains in the family today. Visitors to
the Barolo-area property – which has grown some from its early
years – are likely to be invited into the family kitchen, which
doubles as the tasting room. Giacomo, the father of the generation
currently running the operation, was a firm believer in tradition.
In fact, he’s been quoted as saying, “You don’t change a method
or a culture, because they are not ours to change.” Giacomo’s
sons, Claudio and Alberto, proudly carry on the traditions passed
on to them from both their father and grandfather. The results
are wines, including single-vineyard bottlings from Fenocchio’s
fine Bussia property, which reflect the family’s down-to-earth
heritage while offering a nod to modern techniques.
GIACOMO FENOCCHIO
BUSSIA BAROLO 2005
See Page 9 for tasting note.
4 VINTAGES
5. The Antinoris of Tuscany
Grand visions from a noble lineage
With holdings throughout Tuscany and beyond, the family-
run house of Antinori is the epitome of aristocratic Italy.
Though the company as we know it was formed in 1895,
the family’s involvement in winemaking goes all the way
back to the 14th century. Antinori has expanded over the
last century or so to become one of the most important
producers in Italy; they really began to hit their stride after
current head Piero Antinori took over in 1966. He, along
with a handful of others, was responsible for making the
Tuscan wine industry what it is today, and
was a pioneer in the Supertuscan move-
ment that pushed against the strictures
of the regional appellation system, and
resulted in the creation of the IGT system
that recognized wines that broke appella-
tion rules. Visit any of the many Antinori
properties and you’ll find palace-like
buildings with vast expanses of vineyards
that seemingly disappear into the
distance. And yet, this is still a family
affair – on a 21st-century Tuscan scale.
ANTINORI PIAN DELLE
VIGNE BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO 2005
See Page 12 for tasting note.
RIGHT: The Antinori winery’s
operations are overseen
by Piero Antinori, with his
daughters (from left, pictured
at their Tignanello estate)
Alberia, Alessia and Allegra.
TOP: Antinori vineyards
surround the Medieval Castello
della Sala. CENTRE LEFT:
In centuries past, wineries sold
their products through tiny
doors like this. CENTRE RIGHT:
Wrought-iron gates open
into the family’s 15th-century
Florence palazzo.
VINTAGES 5
6. Handcrafted wines coaxed from challenging terrain
PIEDMONT properties to be found. Producers akin to gentlemen
farmers practice their craft on small holdings, making
artisanal wines from vineyards often just outside the
family home’s front door.
Piedmontese winemakers generally embrace the
“one grape/one wine” philosophy found in Burgundy.
That grape is the finicky Nebbiolo, which thrives
in Piedmont’s perfect confluence of terroir features.
With their continental climates, sandy soils, and
vineyards on undulating hills ringed by mountains,
the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations have made
Nebbiolo what it is (this despite their size: Barolo
has only 1700 hectares under vine; Barbaresco, less
than 800). Although equal in pedigree, Barbaresco,
with its slightly milder climate, makes Nebbiolos
that tend to be more elegant and approachable than
the burly, long-lived Barolos. Other grapes thrive
in Piedmont too, such as Dolcetto and Barbera, which
make juicy, crowd-pleasing wines.
Any alpine region presents challenges The region’s wines match its cuisine perfectly.
for farming, and in Piedmont, this Piedmont is where rice (used for risotto) first prospered
means that winemaking has always been in Italy, and where truffle dogs and pigs can be
confined to small, often isolated seen working the hilly areas around Alba, snuffling
single-vineyard areas, with few grand for the rare white version of the prized fungi.
6 VINTAGES
7. ABOVE: Barolo’s Castello Falletti,
parts of which date to the
10th century. RIGHT: Piedmont,
which translates as “foot of
the mountain” is defined by its
rolling hills surrounded by
the Italian Alps. BOTTOM RIGHT:
Nebbiolo grapes.
VINTAGES 7
8. LA QUERCIOLA PODERI DI LUIGI EINAUDI GUASTI CLEMENTE & GUASTI CLEMENTE &
CHICCHIVELLO LANGHE DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI FIGLI FONDA S. NICOLAO FIGLI RISERVA
ROSSO 2008 2009 BARBERA D’ASTI BARBARESCO 2005
DOC DOC SUPERIORE 2005 DOCG
DOC
Though they did not write a TASTING NOTE: Supple and TASTING NOTE: Fine Nebbiolo
review for this wine, in their harmonious, offering aromas Gambero Rosso gave this wine
¡
with aromas of chestnut,
2010 guide, Gambero Rosso
¡
and flavors of ripe black cherry, a rating of in its 2010 cherry, blackberry and cedar
rated it . raspberry, dark chocolate and edition, but did not provide a spice. Dry with plentiful
iron aromas and flavors. The written review. fruit and finely matched tannins
TASTING NOTE: This blend vibrant structure keeps this and acidity. Very good aroma
of Dolcetto, Barbera and defined and persistent as the TASTING NOTE: Pretty, crowd- replays, especially chestnut and
Nebbiolo is a good example of finish lingers. Drink now pleasing Barbera with aromas cherry. Medium bodied with
the Piedmontese style, with through 2014. Smart Buy. of spring flowers, cherry, herbes a long, balanced and focused
aromas of hibiscus, leather, Score: 90 (Bruce Sanderson, de Provence, and coffee bean. finish. Approachable now
pomegranate, tar and candied winespectator.com, April 30, Dry, lovely fruit tones with a racy with grilled steaks and wild
strawberry. Dry, with very good 2011) acidity bringing excellent mushroom risotto, but will also
aroma replays, plus some refreshment to the wine even reward 3-5 years in a cellar.
soft acids and gentle tannins 232454 (XD) 750 mL after six years. Medium (VINTAGES panel, Nov. 2010)
for balance. Serve it very $18.95 £
bodied with a hint of tannin
slightly chilled to bring the finer coming in on the mid-palate 233908 (XD) 750 mL
aromas out. Enjoy with lamb for balance. A great wine to $35.95 £
burgers, gourmet beef burgers, enjoy with grilled lamb chops. New at VINTAGES
or steaks. (VINTAGES panel, (VINTAGES panel, Nov. 2010)
Aug. 2011)
233890 (XD) 750 mL
225227 (D) 750 mL $21.95 £
$13.95 ¢
New at VINTAGES
8 VINTAGES
9. The village of Barolo is
dominated by the Castello
Falletti and, to its left, the
Romanesque San Donato
chapel. The castle is used for
wine tastings and educational
exhibits about wine production.
GIACOMO FENOCCHIO
BUSSIA BAROLO 2005
DOCG
This cru Barolo comes from
the finest part of Fenocchio’s
Bussia vineyards located
in Monforte d’Alba. They age
the wine for three years in
Slavonian oak casks and then
another year in bottle before
release. Enjoy it with slow-
cooked roast beef or grilled-
rare steaks.
TASTING NOTE: Fresh, elegant,
and lively, with good fruit
and fine balance. Drink 2010-
¤ ¤ ¤ ¤ ¤
2015. Score:
(decanter.com, Undated)
232421 (XD) 750 mL
$42.95 ¥
Featured on the
back cover
New at VINTAGES
VINTAGES 9
10. Famous blends and expansive, sun-kissed vineyards
TUSCANY too, yet only in the last 35 years or so has a real
winemaking renaissance emerged in Tuscany.
Aristocratic families, such as the Antinoris and
Frescobaldis, whose connections to winemaking
go back to before Leonardo, led a charge to shake
up winemaking, creating Supertuscans that
morphed into IGT-designated versions.
Unlike the Piedmontese approach to winemaking,
the Tuscan philosophy is more akin to Bordeaux’s:
the art of the blend. Though focused on the great local
grape Sangiovese, wineries – especially in Chianti
Classico, its satellites, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano,
selected IGT wines and some others – have flour-
ished with the option of using multiple supplemental
varieties. There are exceptions: The wines of
Brunello di Montalcino made their mark by adhering
to a clone of Sangiovese that’s now generally
known as the Brunello grape.
With its expanses of land for grape growing, and
winemaking families with ample resources to spend
From art to politics to philosophical on large properties, Tuscany has emerged as a major
pursuits, Florence was the point from stop on many a wine lover’s travels. The food is a
which many important legacies of draw, too, with good reason: Tuscan cuisine, such as
the Renaissance emerged. Over the steak Florentine, showcases fresh, local ingredients,
centuries, winemaking has been key simply crafted to accentuate flavours.
10 VINTAGES
12. ABOVE: A colourful fall vineyard in the
rolling hills near Siena. BELOW: Producers
assess bottles of their Brunello di
Montalcino. BOTTOM: Sangiovese grapes.
CORDELLA ROSSO DI ANTINORI PIAN DELLE SAN FELICE
MONTALCINO 2009 VIGNE BRUNELLO DI CAMPOGIOVANNI
DOC MONTALCINO 2005 BRUNELLO DI
DOCG MONTALCINO 2005
TASTING NOTE: Beautifully DOCG
made wine from young TASTING NOTE: The 2005
Sangiovese Grosso vines. Plum, Brunello di Montalcino is a TASTING NOTE: Wild berry
licorice, garden herbs, leather gorgeous, classy offering laced and forest aromas open the
(think freshly oiled baseball with fragrant, mineral-infused nose of this clean and direct
glove) and cherry. Dry and red fruit, flowers and spices. Brunello. There’s very nice
fruity with good acidity for This delicate, medium-bodied purity and intensity here and
refreshment and gentle Brunello reveals outstanding the wine showcases layers of
tannins for balance. Medium length and a clean, refreshing red fruit, plum, spice, leather
bodied with a medium-long, finish. With time in the glass, the and rose petal. The silky and
very elegant finish. This is very wine’s inner perfume emerges, smooth mouthfeel would work
enjoyable now with grilled adding even greater complexity. with meat dishes or hearty
lamb skewers, or cellar 1-2 Antinori’s 2005 Brunello is pasta. Score: 91
years. (VINTAGES panel, one of the successes of the (Monica Larner, Wine
Aug. 2011) vintage ... Anticipated maturity: Enthusiast, Oct. 1, 2010)
2011-2021 ... Score: 92
251462 (XD) 750 mL (Antonio Galloni, erobertpark- 991075 (XD) 750 mL
$19.95 ¦
er.com, April 2010) $44.95 ¦
Featured as our
651141 (XD) 750 mL
Wine of the Month
$59.95
New at VINTAGES
¦
Featured on the
back cover
12 VINTAGES
13. SCOPETANI VOLPAIA TENUTA DI NOZZOLE LA POLIZIANO VINO NOBILE
CHIANTI RISERVA 2007 CHIANTI CLASSICO 2008 FORRA CHIANTI CLASSICO DI MONTEPULCIANO 2007
DOCG DOCG RISERVA 2007 DOCG
(Giovannella Stianti) DOCG
TASTING NOTE: A fine Chianti (Ambrogio e Giovanni TASTING NOTE: The 2007
Riserva with classic aromas TASTING NOTE: Volpaia’s 2008 Folonari) Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
of cherry, red berries, roasted Chianti Classico is a pretty, impresses for its rich, weighty
coffee, olive, and earth tones. mid-weight offering informed by TASTING NOTE: The 2007 personality packed with red
Dry, youthful and fresh wine that tobacco, flowers, herbs and Chianti Classico Riserva La fruit. The roundness of the
will reward cellaring (3-5+ cherries. As is often the case in Forra blossoms on the palate fruit carries through nicely to
years), or match it tonight with cooler years, these high- with an exciting array of dark the finish, showing no hard
roast leg of lamb. (VINTAGES altitude vineyards tend to yield fruit, smoke, earthiness and edges and fabulous balance.
panel, Nov. 2010) a more ethereal style of wine. licorice. French oak adds Floral notes add brightness
Still, this Chianti Classico finds volume and spiciness but with- and lift on the close. Anticipated
164814 (D) 750 mL its balance nicely with time out detracting from the purity maturity: 2010-2017. These
$14.95 §
in the glass. It is a model of of the fruit or the silkiness of are among the finest wines I
restrained elegance. the tannins. This is a very can remember tasting
Anticipated maturity: 2010- beautiful La Forra from Folonari. from Poliziano, one of Monte-
2014. Score: 90 (Antonio The warm, inviting personality pulciano’s reference-point
Galloni, erobertparker.com, of the vintage is on full display, producers. Score: 90 (Antonio
August 2010) making this a terrific choice Galloni, erobertparker.com,
for drinking over the next few Oct. 2010)
953828 (XD) 750 mL years. Anticipated maturity:
$21.95 ¨
2010-2017. Score: 92 988055 (XD) 750 mL
(Antonio Galloni, erobertpark- $25.95 ¨
er.com, Oct. 2010)
177279 (XD) 750 mL
$29.95 ¨
VINTAGES 13
14. LEFT: A winery worker harvests grapes
for Chianti in a vineyard purportedly once
owned by Machiavelli.
14 VINTAGES