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Plant Propagation
Workshop
GREENING QUEENS LIBRARY
GIL LOPEZ, COMPOST ASSISTANT
Propagation Methods
 Sexual propagation
 Seeds
 Spore
 Asexual Propagation
 Division
 Cutting
 Grafting
 Layering
 Special Techniques
Micro propagation
 Tissue Culture

Sexual Propagation
 Seeds
 Seed Structure
 Seed Sowing Depth
 Seed Starting Equipment
 Spores grow ferns
Seed Structure
Seed Sowing Depths
 Seeds should not be buried deeper than their

diameter
 Some seeds need light to germinate and should not
be covered at all including:


Ageratum, Astilbe, Balloon flower, Cleome, Coleus, Coreopsis,
Dill, Impatiens, Lettuce, Mexican sunflower (aka tithonia),
Ornamental peppers, Petunias, Savory, Shasta daisy,
Snapdragon, Strawflower, Stock, Sweet alyssum, Yarrow
Seed Staring Equipment
 Containers
 Flats, Trays, Pots and Cell Packs
 Milk cartons, yogurt cups, egg cartons (need holes in bottom)
 Peat, Paper or Cow Pots
 Soil Blockers and Blocks
 Seed Starting or Potting Soil Mixes
 Peat moss, compost, perlite, and/or sphagnum moss
 Lights
 Seeds need 14 hours of strong light a day for healthy compact growth
 Heating Mats and Cables
 Most seeds germinate faster in warm soil (70-75 degrees)
 Capillary Mats
 Wicks water up to soil and maintains even and steady soil moisture
 Fertilizer
 Half-strength solution of fish or seaweed fertilizer or compost tea
Get The Timing
Down
To calculate when to
sow your seeds, go to
our seed-starting
chart, print it out and
then fill in the
blanks. Then you will
have a planting plan
you can follow
through the season.

http://www.organicgardening.com/sites/default/files/pdf/Seedsaverchart_2.pdf
Seed Starting Tips
 Place Sure Bets


Some plants lend themselves to home germination better than others. Surefire vegetables include basil,
broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, chives, leeks, lettuce, onions, peppers, and tomatoes.
Some reliable annual flowers are alyssum, cosmos, marigolds, and zinnias. Perennials include Shasta
daisies, columbines, and hollyhocks.

 Gather containers


Reuse last year's nursery flats if you have some around. Otherwise, any container 2 or 3 inches deep will
do. Punch holes for drainage into the bottom of containers and set them into trays. Protect against plant
disease by thoroughly cleaning all used containers: Wash them in hot, soapy water, and rinse with a dilute
solution of household bleach or distilled white vinegar.

 Pick the right growing medium


You can buy bags of seed-starter mix or you can make your own seed-starting mix by blending equal parts of perlite,
vermiculite, and peat. Add 1/4 teaspoon of lime to each gallon of mix to neutralize the acidity of the peat. You'll
eventually want to repot most of your seedlings into larger containers before setting them into the garden. But
lettuce, melons, and cucumbers are finicky about being transplanted and should go directly from the original
containers into the garden. When starting these fussier plants, always add two parts well-aged, screened compost to
your mix to give them a healthy beginning.

 Sow carefully


Moisten your medium in the containers before sowing the seeds. Next, drop seeds onto the surface of the
mix, spacing them as evenly as possible. Cover the seeds to a depth about three times the thickness of the
seeds. Some seeds, such as ageratum, alyssum, impatiens, petunias, and snapdragons, should not be
covered at all because they need light in order to germinate.

 Cool down


Seedlings don't have to stay as warm as germinating seeds. Move them away from radiators and air vents,
or off the heating mat, as soon they have germinated.

http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/14-tips-starting-your-own-seeds
Seed Starting Tips
 Top it off
 Lightly sprinkle milled sphagnum moss, a natural fungicide, over everything to protect against
damping-off, a fungal disease that rots seeds and seedlings. In the case of seeds that need light to
germinate, sprinkle the moss first and then drop the seeds onto the moss.
 Keep seeds cozy
 Cover the flats with plastic wrap or glass to keep the environment humid and place them near a
heat vent or on a heat mat made especially for seed starting. Most seeds germinate well at about 70
degrees F.
 Keep them damp
 Mist with a spray bottle or set the trays into water to wick up the moisture from below.
 Lighten up
 At the first signs of sprouting, uncover and move the containers to a bright spot—a sunny window,
a greenhouse, or beneath a couple of ordinary fluorescent shop lights (4-footers with two 40-watt
bulbs). The lights are worthwhile, especially if you live in the North. They provide a steady source
of high-intensity light. Short days restrict window light, and your seedlings need 12 to 16 hours of
light a day. Suspend the lights just 2 inches above the plants and gradually raise them as the
seedlings mature. If plants have to stretch or lean toward the light, they can become weak and
spindly. To turn the lights on and off at the same time each day, hook them up to an electric timer.

http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/14-tips-starting-your-own-seeds
Seed Starting Tips
 Feed them
 If you are using a soilless mix without compost, begin to fertilize your seedlings as soon as they get
their first true leaves. Water with a half-strength solution of liquid fish/seaweed fertilizer every
week or two.
 Give them room
 If the seedlings outgrow their containers or crowd one another, repot them into larger containers
filled with a mix that includes compost. Extract the seedlings with a narrow fork or flat stick, and
handle by their leaves and roots to avoid damaging the fragile stems.
 Pet them
 Lightly ruffling seedlings once or twice a day with your hand or a piece of cardboard helps them to
grow stocky and strong. Or, set up a small fan to gently, continuously blow on your seedlings.
 Toughen them up
 AKA Hardening Off. About 1 week before the plants are to go outside, start acclimating them to
living outside. On a warm spring day move the containers to a shaded, protected place, such as a
porch, for a few hours. Each day—unless the weather is horrible—gradually increase the plants
exposure to sun and breeze. At the end of the week leave them out overnight; then transplant them
into the garden.

http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/14-tips-starting-your-own-seeds
Asexual Propagation
Types

Reasons Why

 Division

 Clone desirable specimens

 Cutting

 Propagate difficult

 Layering
 Grafting

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/d
ocuments/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf

germination plants
 Create larger plants
 Save desirable plants from
disease
 Maintain genetic traits
Propagation by Division
 When to Divide?





Reduced plant size or reduced flowering
Dead areas or sparse bottom foliage
Depends on the species



Divide Spring blooming plants in the fall.
Divide Fall blooming plants in the spring.

 Preparation Before Dividing



Water plants thoroughly
Prune stems and foliage

 Lifting




Use sharp shovel or spading fork
Cut in on all sides of plant 4-6 inches from crown
Pry under plant

 Separation





Remove loose soil
Remove dead leaves and stems
Note root system of plant: Spreading, Clumping, Rhizome, Tuber

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
Dividing Spreading
and Clumping Plants
Spreading Plants

Clumping Plants

 Many slender roots

 Many fleshy roots from

from center of plant
 Plants can be invasive
 Cut with shears or pull
apart by hand
 Asters, bee balm,
lamb’s ear, purple
coneflower, and many
common perennials

crown of plant
 Can crowd own centers
 Keep one bud/eye with
each division
 Astilbes, hostas,
daylilies, ornamental
grasses

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
Dividing Rhizome
and Tuber Plants
Rhizome Plants

Tuber Plants

 ‘Horizontal stems’,

 Enlarged roots for






primarily bearded Iris
Divide after flowering
through fall
Inspect for disease and
insect damage
Cut back leaves to ‘fans’
Replant with top of
rhizome above soil






storage
Divide with sharp knife
Each root must contain
stem tissue and bud
Can be replanted or
stored
Dahlias

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
Propagation by Cutting
 Types of Cuttings
 Hardwood, Semi-hardwood, Softwood, Herbaceous
 Types of herbaceous cuttings
 Leaf, Leaf-bud, Cane, Stem, Root
 The goal is to reduce transpiration while maintaining

photosynthesis
 This is often done with mist systems or humidity
tents

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
Herbaceous Cuttings
 Can make numerous cuttings from parent plant
 Cuttings 2-6 inches long
 Remove bottom leaves, leaving 2-4 leaves at the top
 Roots will grow from the node where leaves were







removed
Benefits from high humidity
Bottom heat helps speed rooting
Place cutting in growing medium in a flat
Water
Cover with glass or plastic
When new shoots sprout, move plants to nursery row

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
Rooting Hormones





Not required but can speed the process
Discovered in the 1930s by Dutch scientists
The chemical is called indole-3-butyric acid, or I3B
Willow Trees



Soak yellow tipped shoots in warm water for a few hours
Make a tea with the bark

 Salicylic Acid



Found in the bark of willow trees
Originally used to make aspirin – crush 1 aspirin in 1 gallon of water

 Honey





Soak cutting in diluted honey for 2-3 hours
Soak in water for 15 minutes
Plant into soil
Propagation by Layering
 Layering is the process of forming roots on a

daughter plant while it is still attached to the parent
 More complicated than cutting but useful when for
propagating large pieces or for plants that form roots
slowly.
 Types of Layering



Ground Layering
Air Layering

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
Ground Layering
Procedure

Maintenance

 Bend the tip to the

 Wait a few months for






ground
Wound branch at
rooting spot
Use rooting hormone
Stake in place
Cover with 4 inches of
soil






roots to form
Check for roots
Cut branch below new
roots
Pot the new plant
Keep in moist soil and in
shade until root system
has fully develops

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
Air Layering
Procedure

Maintenance

 Choose a branch

 Wait a few months for

 Cut and strip bark

 Apply rooting hormone
 Prepare and apply

moss or coconut husk
 Cover with plastic
 Wrap with aluminum
foil






roots to form
Check for roots
Cut branch below new
roots
Pot the new plant
Keep in moist soil and in
shade until root system
has fully develops

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
Propagation by Grafting
 A horticultural technique whereby tissues from

one plant are inserted into those of another so that the
two sets of vascular tissues may join together.
 Rootstock is a plant selected for its roots.
 A scion is a plant is selected for its stem, leaves, flower,
or fruits
 Advantages of grafting


Precocity, Dwarfing, Ease of propagation, Hybrid breeding,
Hardiness, Sturdiness, Pollen source, Repair, Changing cultivars,
Maintain consistency, Curiosities

 Types of grafting


Approach, Budding, Cleft, Whip, Stub, Four flap (or banana), Awl,
Veneer

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grafting
Bud Grafting
 Grafting with a single eye or bud is most commonly

used for citrus trees, deciduous fruit and shade trees
are well suited to budding.
 Normally performed at the height of the growing
season by inserting a dormant bud into a shallow
slice under the rind of the tree.
 The bud is sealed from drying and bound in place.
 There are many styles of budding, shield budding is
most common but also included inverted T, patch
budding, double shield, flute budding and chip
budding.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grafting
Removing Buds
from the
Budstick
The bud to be inserted is
often just a shield of bark
with a bud attached or a
very thin layer of wood
with both the bark shield
and bud attached.
Begin the first scion cut
about 1/2 inch below the
bud and draw the knife
upward just under the bark
to a point at least 1/4 inch
above the bud. Grasp the
petiole from the detached
leaf between the thumb
and forefinger of the free
hand. Make the second cut
by rotating the knife blade
straight across the
horizontal axis of the
budstick and about 1/4
inch above the desired bud.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/budding.html
Inserting the
Bud
Insert the bud shield
into the T flaps of the
stock and slide it down
to ensure that it makes
intimate contact with
the rootstock.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/budding.html
Securing the
Bud
Pull the cuttogether by
winding a 4- or 5inchlong budding
rubber around the stem
to hold the flaps tightly
over the bud shield and
prevent drying.
Secure the budding
rubber by overlapping
all windings and
tucking the end under
the last turn.

Do Not cover the bud.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/budding.html
Thank You!
 Be sure to leave your name and email address on the

sign up sheet. You will receive the Greening Queens
Library e-newsletter with garden shift opportunities,
compost collection reminders, green film series
updates and more workshops like this one.
 Signing up for the newsletter will also enter you into
the drawing as we give away some of the plants we
have propagated today!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grafting

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Plant propagation powerpoint by Gil Lopez for @QueensLibrary

  • 1. Plant Propagation Workshop GREENING QUEENS LIBRARY GIL LOPEZ, COMPOST ASSISTANT
  • 2. Propagation Methods  Sexual propagation  Seeds  Spore  Asexual Propagation  Division  Cutting  Grafting  Layering  Special Techniques Micro propagation  Tissue Culture 
  • 3. Sexual Propagation  Seeds  Seed Structure  Seed Sowing Depth  Seed Starting Equipment  Spores grow ferns
  • 5. Seed Sowing Depths  Seeds should not be buried deeper than their diameter  Some seeds need light to germinate and should not be covered at all including:  Ageratum, Astilbe, Balloon flower, Cleome, Coleus, Coreopsis, Dill, Impatiens, Lettuce, Mexican sunflower (aka tithonia), Ornamental peppers, Petunias, Savory, Shasta daisy, Snapdragon, Strawflower, Stock, Sweet alyssum, Yarrow
  • 6. Seed Staring Equipment  Containers  Flats, Trays, Pots and Cell Packs  Milk cartons, yogurt cups, egg cartons (need holes in bottom)  Peat, Paper or Cow Pots  Soil Blockers and Blocks  Seed Starting or Potting Soil Mixes  Peat moss, compost, perlite, and/or sphagnum moss  Lights  Seeds need 14 hours of strong light a day for healthy compact growth  Heating Mats and Cables  Most seeds germinate faster in warm soil (70-75 degrees)  Capillary Mats  Wicks water up to soil and maintains even and steady soil moisture  Fertilizer  Half-strength solution of fish or seaweed fertilizer or compost tea
  • 7. Get The Timing Down To calculate when to sow your seeds, go to our seed-starting chart, print it out and then fill in the blanks. Then you will have a planting plan you can follow through the season. http://www.organicgardening.com/sites/default/files/pdf/Seedsaverchart_2.pdf
  • 8. Seed Starting Tips  Place Sure Bets  Some plants lend themselves to home germination better than others. Surefire vegetables include basil, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, chives, leeks, lettuce, onions, peppers, and tomatoes. Some reliable annual flowers are alyssum, cosmos, marigolds, and zinnias. Perennials include Shasta daisies, columbines, and hollyhocks.  Gather containers  Reuse last year's nursery flats if you have some around. Otherwise, any container 2 or 3 inches deep will do. Punch holes for drainage into the bottom of containers and set them into trays. Protect against plant disease by thoroughly cleaning all used containers: Wash them in hot, soapy water, and rinse with a dilute solution of household bleach or distilled white vinegar.  Pick the right growing medium  You can buy bags of seed-starter mix or you can make your own seed-starting mix by blending equal parts of perlite, vermiculite, and peat. Add 1/4 teaspoon of lime to each gallon of mix to neutralize the acidity of the peat. You'll eventually want to repot most of your seedlings into larger containers before setting them into the garden. But lettuce, melons, and cucumbers are finicky about being transplanted and should go directly from the original containers into the garden. When starting these fussier plants, always add two parts well-aged, screened compost to your mix to give them a healthy beginning.  Sow carefully  Moisten your medium in the containers before sowing the seeds. Next, drop seeds onto the surface of the mix, spacing them as evenly as possible. Cover the seeds to a depth about three times the thickness of the seeds. Some seeds, such as ageratum, alyssum, impatiens, petunias, and snapdragons, should not be covered at all because they need light in order to germinate.  Cool down  Seedlings don't have to stay as warm as germinating seeds. Move them away from radiators and air vents, or off the heating mat, as soon they have germinated. http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/14-tips-starting-your-own-seeds
  • 9. Seed Starting Tips  Top it off  Lightly sprinkle milled sphagnum moss, a natural fungicide, over everything to protect against damping-off, a fungal disease that rots seeds and seedlings. In the case of seeds that need light to germinate, sprinkle the moss first and then drop the seeds onto the moss.  Keep seeds cozy  Cover the flats with plastic wrap or glass to keep the environment humid and place them near a heat vent or on a heat mat made especially for seed starting. Most seeds germinate well at about 70 degrees F.  Keep them damp  Mist with a spray bottle or set the trays into water to wick up the moisture from below.  Lighten up  At the first signs of sprouting, uncover and move the containers to a bright spot—a sunny window, a greenhouse, or beneath a couple of ordinary fluorescent shop lights (4-footers with two 40-watt bulbs). The lights are worthwhile, especially if you live in the North. They provide a steady source of high-intensity light. Short days restrict window light, and your seedlings need 12 to 16 hours of light a day. Suspend the lights just 2 inches above the plants and gradually raise them as the seedlings mature. If plants have to stretch or lean toward the light, they can become weak and spindly. To turn the lights on and off at the same time each day, hook them up to an electric timer. http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/14-tips-starting-your-own-seeds
  • 10. Seed Starting Tips  Feed them  If you are using a soilless mix without compost, begin to fertilize your seedlings as soon as they get their first true leaves. Water with a half-strength solution of liquid fish/seaweed fertilizer every week or two.  Give them room  If the seedlings outgrow their containers or crowd one another, repot them into larger containers filled with a mix that includes compost. Extract the seedlings with a narrow fork or flat stick, and handle by their leaves and roots to avoid damaging the fragile stems.  Pet them  Lightly ruffling seedlings once or twice a day with your hand or a piece of cardboard helps them to grow stocky and strong. Or, set up a small fan to gently, continuously blow on your seedlings.  Toughen them up  AKA Hardening Off. About 1 week before the plants are to go outside, start acclimating them to living outside. On a warm spring day move the containers to a shaded, protected place, such as a porch, for a few hours. Each day—unless the weather is horrible—gradually increase the plants exposure to sun and breeze. At the end of the week leave them out overnight; then transplant them into the garden. http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/14-tips-starting-your-own-seeds
  • 11. Asexual Propagation Types Reasons Why  Division  Clone desirable specimens  Cutting  Propagate difficult  Layering  Grafting http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/d ocuments/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf germination plants  Create larger plants  Save desirable plants from disease  Maintain genetic traits
  • 12. Propagation by Division  When to Divide?    Reduced plant size or reduced flowering Dead areas or sparse bottom foliage Depends on the species   Divide Spring blooming plants in the fall. Divide Fall blooming plants in the spring.  Preparation Before Dividing   Water plants thoroughly Prune stems and foliage  Lifting    Use sharp shovel or spading fork Cut in on all sides of plant 4-6 inches from crown Pry under plant  Separation    Remove loose soil Remove dead leaves and stems Note root system of plant: Spreading, Clumping, Rhizome, Tuber http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
  • 13. Dividing Spreading and Clumping Plants Spreading Plants Clumping Plants  Many slender roots  Many fleshy roots from from center of plant  Plants can be invasive  Cut with shears or pull apart by hand  Asters, bee balm, lamb’s ear, purple coneflower, and many common perennials crown of plant  Can crowd own centers  Keep one bud/eye with each division  Astilbes, hostas, daylilies, ornamental grasses http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
  • 14. Dividing Rhizome and Tuber Plants Rhizome Plants Tuber Plants  ‘Horizontal stems’,  Enlarged roots for     primarily bearded Iris Divide after flowering through fall Inspect for disease and insect damage Cut back leaves to ‘fans’ Replant with top of rhizome above soil     storage Divide with sharp knife Each root must contain stem tissue and bud Can be replanted or stored Dahlias http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
  • 15. Propagation by Cutting  Types of Cuttings  Hardwood, Semi-hardwood, Softwood, Herbaceous  Types of herbaceous cuttings  Leaf, Leaf-bud, Cane, Stem, Root  The goal is to reduce transpiration while maintaining photosynthesis  This is often done with mist systems or humidity tents http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
  • 16. Herbaceous Cuttings  Can make numerous cuttings from parent plant  Cuttings 2-6 inches long  Remove bottom leaves, leaving 2-4 leaves at the top  Roots will grow from the node where leaves were       removed Benefits from high humidity Bottom heat helps speed rooting Place cutting in growing medium in a flat Water Cover with glass or plastic When new shoots sprout, move plants to nursery row http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
  • 17. Rooting Hormones     Not required but can speed the process Discovered in the 1930s by Dutch scientists The chemical is called indole-3-butyric acid, or I3B Willow Trees   Soak yellow tipped shoots in warm water for a few hours Make a tea with the bark  Salicylic Acid   Found in the bark of willow trees Originally used to make aspirin – crush 1 aspirin in 1 gallon of water  Honey    Soak cutting in diluted honey for 2-3 hours Soak in water for 15 minutes Plant into soil
  • 18. Propagation by Layering  Layering is the process of forming roots on a daughter plant while it is still attached to the parent  More complicated than cutting but useful when for propagating large pieces or for plants that form roots slowly.  Types of Layering   Ground Layering Air Layering http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
  • 19. Ground Layering Procedure Maintenance  Bend the tip to the  Wait a few months for     ground Wound branch at rooting spot Use rooting hormone Stake in place Cover with 4 inches of soil     roots to form Check for roots Cut branch below new roots Pot the new plant Keep in moist soil and in shade until root system has fully develops http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
  • 20. Air Layering Procedure Maintenance  Choose a branch  Wait a few months for  Cut and strip bark  Apply rooting hormone  Prepare and apply moss or coconut husk  Cover with plastic  Wrap with aluminum foil     roots to form Check for roots Cut branch below new roots Pot the new plant Keep in moist soil and in shade until root system has fully develops http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/bryan/anr/documents/AsexualPropagation_000.pdf
  • 21. Propagation by Grafting  A horticultural technique whereby tissues from one plant are inserted into those of another so that the two sets of vascular tissues may join together.  Rootstock is a plant selected for its roots.  A scion is a plant is selected for its stem, leaves, flower, or fruits  Advantages of grafting  Precocity, Dwarfing, Ease of propagation, Hybrid breeding, Hardiness, Sturdiness, Pollen source, Repair, Changing cultivars, Maintain consistency, Curiosities  Types of grafting  Approach, Budding, Cleft, Whip, Stub, Four flap (or banana), Awl, Veneer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grafting
  • 22. Bud Grafting  Grafting with a single eye or bud is most commonly used for citrus trees, deciduous fruit and shade trees are well suited to budding.  Normally performed at the height of the growing season by inserting a dormant bud into a shallow slice under the rind of the tree.  The bud is sealed from drying and bound in place.  There are many styles of budding, shield budding is most common but also included inverted T, patch budding, double shield, flute budding and chip budding. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grafting
  • 23. Removing Buds from the Budstick The bud to be inserted is often just a shield of bark with a bud attached or a very thin layer of wood with both the bark shield and bud attached. Begin the first scion cut about 1/2 inch below the bud and draw the knife upward just under the bark to a point at least 1/4 inch above the bud. Grasp the petiole from the detached leaf between the thumb and forefinger of the free hand. Make the second cut by rotating the knife blade straight across the horizontal axis of the budstick and about 1/4 inch above the desired bud. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/budding.html
  • 24. Inserting the Bud Insert the bud shield into the T flaps of the stock and slide it down to ensure that it makes intimate contact with the rootstock. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/budding.html
  • 25. Securing the Bud Pull the cuttogether by winding a 4- or 5inchlong budding rubber around the stem to hold the flaps tightly over the bud shield and prevent drying. Secure the budding rubber by overlapping all windings and tucking the end under the last turn. Do Not cover the bud. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/budding.html
  • 26. Thank You!  Be sure to leave your name and email address on the sign up sheet. You will receive the Greening Queens Library e-newsletter with garden shift opportunities, compost collection reminders, green film series updates and more workshops like this one.  Signing up for the newsletter will also enter you into the drawing as we give away some of the plants we have propagated today! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grafting