Wet Processing Technology

1
Wet Processing Technology -IV
WPT 402
Duration
10 October 2010 - 10 December 2010
Factory Name
GMS Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd.
Sardagong, Kashipur, Gazipur
Supervising Teacher
Ismat Zerin
Prepared By
Md. Yusuf Miah
ID # 05310015
Bath: 1st
Department of Textile Engineering
40, Kemal Ataturk Avenue
Banani, Dhaka -1213, Bangladesh

2
Index
Sl No. Chapter No. Description Index No
01 Chapter- 01 Peoject Description 01
02 Chapter- 02 Manpower Management 07
03 Chapter- 03 Knitting Section 13
04 Chapter- 04 Batch Section 44
05 Chapter- 05 Lab Section 48
06 Chapter- 06 Dyeing Section 83
07 Chapter- 07 Finishing Section 128
08 Chapter- 08 Yarn Dyeing Section 161
09 Chapter- 09 Garments Section 194
10 Chapter- 10 Printing Section 201
11 Chapter- 11 Effluent Treatment Plant 216
12 Chapter- 12 Maintenance 237
13 Chapter- 13 Inventory 242
14 Chapter- 14 Cost Analysis 249
15 Chapter- 15 Utility Services 251

4
Project Description
Name : Montex Fabrics Ltd (Mondol Group).
Type : 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.
Year of establishment : 2000
Investor : Abdul Mojid Mondol
Location : Nayapara, Konabari, Gazipur.
Project cost : 70 crore
Certification & awards : ISO 9001:2000.
Production capacity : Knitting: 7 tons/day
Dyeing: 18 ton/day
Sewing: 70,000pcs/day
Main Production : Basic T-Shirt, Long Sleeve, Sweater,
T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Pajama, Ladies, Kids
Knitwear& all kinds of knit
Garments & Knit fabrics.
Factory space : 9 acor
Garments or knitting : 5 acor
Dyeing : 3.75acor
ETP : 0.25acor

5
Contact information:
Contact persons : Md. Saifur Islam (HR Manager)
Contact Number : 01713424473
Corporate office : H-8 2nd
Floor,
Sonargang, Janapath Road Sector -11, Uttera,
New Modal Town, Dhaka-1230
Factory : Nayapara, Konabari, Gazipur
Supporting department
 Personnel department
 Marketing and Mercendising
 Utility
 Human resource Department
 Accounting and financing
Sister companies of Montex Fabrics Ltd.
1. Mondol yarn dyeing Ltd.
2. Montrim Ltd..
3. Mondol Knitt wears Ltd.
4. Cotton club (BD) Ltd.
5. Alim Knitt wears Ltd.
6. Mondol Seccuraty Ltd.
7. Apollo Fashion Ltd.
8. Mondol Switers Ltd.
9. Mondol Fabrics Ltd.
16 Sisters companies of Montex Fabrics Ltd.
E–mail Address: hr@mondol.net
URL:http://www.mondol.net

6
History of the project development
After successful operation in Montex fabrics Ltd, the owner had decided to start a
fully information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality
controlled modern ready made composite knit garments industry in large scale. In this
connection Abdul Mojid Mondol had decided in a resolution to start a company in Nayapara,
Konabari and Gazipur. In the year 2000 to manufacture knitwear garments for the
international market. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide
total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time. To meet the commitments of
quality and prompt delivery, Montex fabrics Ltd Decided to integrate the manufacturing
process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process has been integrated by
importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers.
Working on new concepts in styling & content of the knitwear is a continuous activity
in Montex fabrics Ltd with an objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise .In
2000, the year in which International business was started; Montex fabrics Ltd. concentrated
all its strengths and resources in developing a wide range of knitwear for the international
market.
Vision & mission of the project
The mission and vision of Montex fabrics Ltd. is to manufacture and deliver high
quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and
enhance customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade
garments and also to increase efficiency of workforce.
To attain these objectives, the management of Montex fabrics Ltd. has decided to
adopt the following-
 To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the
organization.
 By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.
 To collect customer‘s feedback regularly to know about their conception about
their company and to take timely appropriate action.
 To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annum‘s
implement and monitor ISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the
organization.

7
Jaydebpur
Chandra Chaurasta
Bi-pass
Nayapare
Station
road
Abdullahpur
Air port
Banani
konabari
Factory

8
WPT
Security Room
ETP
Ground floor
Finishing
1st
floor
Fabric store
2nd
floor
Account section
3rd
floor
Lab section
5th
floor
Ground floor
Dyeing section
1st
floor
Dyeing floor
2nd
floor
Store
3rd
floor
Winding section
4th
floor
Knitting section
5th
floor
Printing section
Yarn dyeing
&
Finishing
Boiler
3 Store
Building
For
Security
Dyeing section
Finishing section
Inspection
Sewing section
Cutting section
Switer section
Printing section
9 store
building
Finishing
Marchensd
ing
Packing
Boiler,
generat
or
ETP
Factory main gat
NorthSouth
westEast

10
Organizational structure:
Managing Director
Director
Knitting division Dyeing division
Production manager Asst. General Manager
Knitting Master Asst. manager
Q.C Supervisor fitter Sr.P.O
Operator Executive
Helper supervisor
Sr. Operator
Operator
Helper

11
Section – wise manpower
Department Manpower
Knitting section 90
Knit Dyeing 170
Garments section 5000( above )
Power generator boiler and utility 89
Inventory / store keeper 23
Administration 73
Security 50
Batch section 16
Yarn dyeing 94
Finishing 185
Lab 14
Q.C 24
Others 180
Total 6008
Knitting section
Knitting manager 1
Knitting master 1
Supervisor 2
Q.C 2
Fitter man 2
Operator 78
Cleaner 4
Total 90
Batch selection section
(Both general and shifting)
Batch selection section Man power
Batch incharge 2
Supervisor 2
Sewing operator 4
Helper 8
Total 16
Knit Dyeing section
AGM 1
Sr. manager 1
Manager 2
Production officer 4
Incharge 4
Supervisor 4

12
Sr, m/c operator 4
m/c operator 50
Helper 100
Total 170
Yarn dyeing section
AGM 1
Sr. manager 1
Manager 1
Production officer 1
Supervisor 2
m/c operator 44
Helper 44
Total 94
Finishing section (yarn and knit dyeing)
Spo 2
Finishing executive 8
Sr.operator 10
Operator 84
Helper 72
Cleaner 9
Total 185
Lab section
Manager 1
Lab incharge 2
QC 4
Lab asst. 7
Total 14
Quality control section
Q.C incharge 4
Technician 8
Q.C asst. 12
Total 24

13
Power generator boiler and utility
Power 12
Generator 15
Boiler 12
Utility 50
Total 89
Inventory
Store manager 2
Store keeper(dyeing, knitting , garments) 5+4+12=21
Total 23
Administration
Chairman 1
Managing director 1
Merchandiser 42
Purchase 9
Accounts 11
Commercial 3
Computer 6
Total 73
Management system:
 Buyer sample is send to G.M or merchandising manager.
 Marching is done under lab manager.
 Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing manager.
 Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
 Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. sample for bulk production.
 Dyeing manager gives responsibilities to asst. dyeing manager.
 Then shift incharge with the supervisors start bulk production.
 On line and off line quality check is done by lab incharge and asst. dyeing manager.
 After dyeing asst. manager (finishing) controls the finishing process with the
supervision of shift inchargr.
 Finally G.M checks the result with dyeing manager and decision is taken for delivery.
Shift change for worker:
 A shift = 8.0 am to 8.0 pm
 B shift = 8.0 pm to 8 am
 But offices time 9.0 am to 5.0 pm

14
Responsibilities of shift incharge:
 Over all supervision of production both dyeing and finishing.
 Batch preparation and pH check.
 Dyes and chemical requisition, issue and check.
 Write fabric loading and loading time form machine.
 Programmed making, sample checking, color matching.
 Control the supervisors, operators, asst. operators and helpers of dyeing machine.
 And also other work when it is required by top level management.
Job description:
Title: asst. manager
Dept/section: dyeing and finishing
Report to: manager.
Job summary:
 After having the work order, prepares production plan.
 To execute and follow up the plan along with quality conformation.
 To face various difficulties of production and overcome them.
 Inspecting the material for conformation to buyer requirements.
Job description:
Title: shift incharge
Dept/section: asst. dyeing manager
Jobs summary:
 To execute the plan given by asst. dyeing master.
 Organizing personnel under him.
 Control the supervisors, operators, asst. operators and helpers of dyeing machine.
 Checking of shade match.
Remarks:
The manpower management system of montex fabric ltd. Is will arranged. Every officers &
stuffs are responsible for their duty. But there are only three textile engineers in the industry
manager (dyeing), manager (lab), and R&D officer. It is not sufficient for smooth production.
More technical people are required.

16
KNITTING HISTORY:
1758: Jedediah strut, the inventor of the Double knit (rechts- rechts) technique. This
invention refers to an attachment for the hand knitting frame, which become world famous
under the name Derby rib m/c.
1798: Monsieur Decroix arranges the needles radially into a corona, which rotates and thus
moves the needles one after the other through the knitting stages. The circular knitting frame
is born.
1805: Joseph Marie jacquard presented his control apparatus for shed building on weaving
looms in Lyon. It is not clear as to when jacquard started getting interested in the
problems of the knitting industry after his success in the weaving filed. But today we do
encounter the jacquard device in different vitiations on knitting m/cs for the same purposes:
individual movement of knitting and transfer needles, sinker or guide needles for patterning.
1847: Matthew Townsend obtains a patent for his invention of the latch needle. A new epoch
in the knitting technique begins. With the help of these needles stitch formation become
easier, because the press was on longer necessary. The result was simplification of the
mechanism, increase in production speeds, and reduction of costs.
1850: the circular knitting m/c has been developed from the English circular knitting frame. It
was initially equipped with stationary bearded needles in vertical position. Larer on, it was
built with latched needles, which can be individually moved this is characteristic for a
circular knitting m/c.
1852: Teodor Groz.opend his workshop in Ebingen in the swabin alb and Ernst beckert
started naking needles in Chemnitz. Both of them wanted to assist the manufacturers of
knitted stocking by presenting them with needles, which would not get bent or broken. This
meant that the measles were no longer made from iron but from steel. Today the concern
Groz Beckert delivers exactly adapted needles for every kind of knitting m/c.
1878: D. Griswold gets a patent for a circular knitting m/c, which can produce plain or ribbed
fabric tubes in any desired distribution. The vertical cylinder needles are enhanced by
horizontal dial needles also individually moveable in radial slots. This leads for the first time
to two new denotions small rib m/c and large rib m/c.
1910: the firm Robert Walter Scott in Philadelphia was granted a patent for ―interlock fabric‖
The interlock fabric is a double faced fabric composed of two crossed double knit fabric.
1918: The first double cylinder, small circular knitting m/c with a double hook needle and
sliders (needle pushers) was built in English by the firm Wildt
.
1920: besides flat knitting m/cs, increasing use is made of circular knitting m/cs for the
fabrication of color parented fabrics. This is done with the help of yarn changer devices and
needle selection via pattern wheels and punched tapes made from steel or paper.
1935: after the production of circular sinker wheel m/cs was srarted in 1906, the firm Mayer
& Cie. Began producing circular knitting m/cs. Mayer & Cie. Introduced mass line
production of these m/cs in 1939.

17
1946: after this period notable further developments were made in circular knitting with
regard to higher performance and new products as a result of an increase in feeder numbers, a
raise in the production speeds and the use pf new needle technologies. The old pinion feed
wheel units were replaced by new yarn delivery devices like tape feeders and measuring
meters with yarn reserve for smooth fabrics and knit patterns as well as storage feeders fore
jacquards. These new devices have increasingly taken over the control and monitoring of
yarn delivery. Such peripheral equipment placed on high speed circular knitting m/cs and
fabric quality.
1963: the era the electronics begins at the international textile m/cry exhibition ITMA
1963 in hanover. The first electronic needle selection is demonstrated by the firm morat on its
film- taper-controlled ―moratronik‖, with later on gets into serial production. Today a
computer is used for data storage and a dickered is the data carrier.
1967: the legendary OVJA36, which is probably world wide the most successful circular
knitting m/c so far, is exhibited at the ITMA in Basle. More than 7000 m/cs of this type were
built in the following years.
1987: the firm Mayer & Cie begins with the serial production of the PELANIT, a plain
(rechts- links) circular knitting m/c having a relative movement between needles and sinkers.
It will be producing more than 1000 m/cs till the ITMA 1991.
Modern circular knitting technology will be determined by increases in performance,
reductions in setting – up times and flexible utilization. The technical designer will have to
deal with this challenge now and in the future.
Knitting is the most common method of interloping and is second only to weaving as a
method of manufacturing textile structures. It is estimated that over seven million tons of
knitted goods are produced annually throughout the world. Although the unique capability of
knitting to manufacture shaped and form- fitting articles has been utilized for centuries,
modem technology has enabled knitted constructions in shaped and unshaped fabric form to
expand into a wide range of apparel, domestic and industrial end uses.
Knitted fabrics of a wide variety of types are presently enjoying unprecedented
consumer demand. In many end uses, where formerly woven fabrics held undisputed away,
knitted cloth has taken a commanding lead, while in those end uses where the knitted fabric
traditionally has been supreme, production advanced by leaps and bounds.
To most people, knitted fabric is somewhat of an unknown quantity. Few people can
distinguish it readily form woven fabrics fewer still have any conception how it is produced.
Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser, By: Eng. Shah Alimuzzaman Belal, C.Text. ATI
(UK) pag: 223,324,325
Knitting:
Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of
yarn into a series of interloping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately
preceding it.
Types of weft knitting m/c:
Circular knitting m/c
Flat bed knitting m/c

18
Main parts of circular knitting m/c:
1. Yarn feed guide
2. Latch needle
3. Holding down sinker
4. Needle cylinder
5. Needle retaining spring
6. Needle operating cams
7. Cylinder driving wheel
8. Cylinder driving gear
9. Cylinder driving pinion attached to the main shaft
10. Sinker cam top
11. Sinker operation cams which form a raised track operating in the racesl of the sinker
12. Sinker trick ring which is simple and directly attached to the outside top of the needle
cylinder thus causing the sinkers to revolve in unison with the needle.
13. Cam box
14. Cam plate
15. Creel: Creel is used to place the cone.
16. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.
17. Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.
18. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.
19. Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.
20. Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the m/c stops when any problem occurs.
21. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.
22. Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric
23. Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting
M/c to feed the yarn at specific finger.
24. Rethom: These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting m/c
Needle:
The fundamental element in construction of knitted fabrics is the knitting needle.
Needle is the main knitting tools and also the principal element of m/c knitting.
Classification of needle
1. The spring-bearded needles
2. The latch needles
3. The compound needles.
According to the Butt position Latch needle are four types:-
 One butt latch needle
 Two butt latch needle
 Three butt latch needle
 Four butt latch needle

19
Sinker: SINKER
This is secondary primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual
and collective action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoing
needles.
Cam:
Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating
action for the needles or other elements.
Types of cam: two type of cam
1. Engineering cam Knit cam
2. Knitting cam Miss cam
Tuck cam

20
Circular knitting m/c (Construction and working principle)
1. Side-creel (Tube-type): Keep & guide yarn packages to yarn feeding rollers
2. Yarn feeding system: Control the fabric weight by changing loops length
3. Bobbin table: Fixed with yarn feeding devices
4. Driving motor
(5 HP, 7.5 HP)
5. Bed assembly: Rotation of cylinder
6. Head assembly : Rotation of dial
7. Lubricator : Supply of lubricants
8. Knitting head (Cam/needle/yarn guide): Core knitting compositions for producing
the various kinds of knit structures
9. Take-up assembly: Take down the fabric tube with constant tension
10. M/c controller: Control box and panel for controlling dynamic
Force of m/c
11. Safety guard: Protection of workers from rotating Take-up device
12. Creel

21
12
3
1 2
4
6
5
7
8 10
9 11
Figure: schematic diagram of weft knitting machine (circular knitting m/c)

22
Main parts of flat bed m/c:
- Carrage
-Relling
-Feeder
-Guide bar
-Top tensioner
-Side tensioner
-Operational butt
-Take up roller
-Brash
-Lace braces
Flat bed m/c
Needle of flat bed m/c:
Brand name: ORGAN (CHINA)
Terms and definition of knitting:
Course – a horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle
Wale – a vertical column of loops formed by a single needle
Loop: it is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basic
unit. Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft
of woven structures termed ―Wales‖ and ―courses‖ respectively
Stitch: the smallest dimensionally stable unit of al knitted fabric is stitch. It consists of a yarn
loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loop.
Stitch length: stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles the needle loop &
half the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the more extensible
& lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength.
Steps should be taken to change stitch length.
- Check the S.L of the m/c prevailing.
- Change the diameter of V. DLQ pulley.
- Set of the position of carriage.
- Set the speed of take- up roller
- Maintain the optimum yarn tension.
Stitch Density: Courses per inch (CPI) × Wales per inch (WPI)
M/c Gauge: a number of needles per unit length in the knitting m/c, measured as the number
of needles in one inch. This measure determines the number of Wales per unit length in the
knitted fabric

23
Organogram of Knitting Section:
AGM
Manager /Asst. Manager (Production & Plan)(02) Manager
(Technical)
Asst.Manager (01)
Sr. Executive (Production, Plan & Sample) (02)
Sr. Feeder/Feeder(07)
Executive / Jr. Executive (Prod. & Sample) (05)
Asst. Feeder(04)
Sr. Supervisor/Supervisor (06) Sample Supervisor (02)
Needle Man(03)
Sr. Operator/Operator (135) Sample Asst.(05)
Servicing Man(06)
Asst. Operator (33)
Servicing Helper(06)
Production Helper (21)
Manager / Asst. Manager (Store)(01)
Sr. Executive / Executive (02)
Jr. Executive (Yarn)(02) Jr. Executive (Grey Fabric)(03)
Store Asst.(Yarn)(03) Store Asst.(Grey Fabric)(07)
Loader (Yarn)(26) Batch Helper/Loader (35)

24
Duties & Responsibilities of Production manager:
* To collect order sheet from merchandiser
* To talk with knitting master for necessary m/c set up
* To collect the production accessories for production
* To discuss with AGM about overall production if necessary
* Any other assignment given by the authority.
Working Sequence of Knitting Section of Montex Fabrics Ltd.
Order sheet receiving From Merchandiser
Selecting of production parameter
Arranging of yarn
Testing of yarn
Arranging of selected m/c
Making a pre-production sample
Starting of bulk production after approval
Checking of grey fabric
Delivery of grey fabrics according to batch wise

25
Specification of circular knitting mc:
No. of
m/c
M/C
Dia
M/C
Gauge
No. Of
Feeder
No. Of
Needle
M/C
Spec
Brand Origin
01 20‖ 24 60 1500 S/J Pailung Taiwan
10 34‘‘ 24 102 2544 S/J Pailung Taiwan
18 40‘‘ 24 120 3000 S/J Pailung Taiwan
22 36‖ 18 54 2040 Rib Pailung Taiwan
23 34‖ 20 48 2124 Fleece Pailung Taiwan
24 32‖ 18 64 1800×2 Rib/Int. Pailung Taiwan
27 34‖ 18 72 2544×2 Rib/Int. Pailung Taiwan.
28 32‖ 18 64 1800×2 Rib/Inte Pailung Taiwan
31 34‖ 24 72 2544×2 Rib / Int. Pailung Taiwan
33 19‖ 24 57 1440 S/J Unitex Singapore
37 19 24 57 1440 S/J Unitex Singapore
38 40‖ 20 120 1220/3000 H/J-S/J Unitex Singapore
41 40‖ 20 120 1728 Fleece Unitex Singapore

26
47 44‖ 16 80 2210 Rib Unitex Singapore
48 40‘‘ 19 84 3000×2 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore
49 40‘‘ 18 84 3000×2 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore
50 34‖ 24 72 3840/5100 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore
53 40‘‘ 24 84 4500/6000 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore
56 32‘‘ 18 66 3720/4824 Rib/Int. Unitex Singapore
57 28‘‘ 24 120 2856×2 Rib/Int Unitex Singapore
58 34‘‘ 24 108 5088 Interlock Unitex Singapore
59 36‖ 24 116 5400 Interlock Unitex Singapore
60 36‘‘ 36 116 5400 Interlock Unitex Singapore
61 16‖ 24 48 1212 S/J Fukahama Taiwan
67 21‖ 24 63 1584 Inter Fukahama Taiwan
68 38‖ 24 76 4260 Rib/Inte Fukahama Taiwan
69 22‖ 24 69 1656 S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany
70 18‖ 33 57 1872 S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany
71 24‖ 24 78 1800 S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany
72 20‖ 24 65 1512 S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany
73 26‖ 24 84 1944 S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany
74 30‖ 24 69 2268 S/J Mayer &
Cie
Germany
75 34‘‘ 18 72 1920 Rib Mayer &
Cie
Germany
76 30‖ 16 62 1510×2 Rib/Int. Mayer &
Cie
Germany
77 38‖ 20 114 2400 H/J-S/J Smart Taiwan
78 36‘‘ 20 108 2232 H/J-S/J Smart Taiwan

27
Specification of flat bed knitting mc:
 M/c no : 01-17
Brand name : SHIMA SEIKI
Country : Japan
Feeder : 2
Machine gauge : 14
Machine Width : 52‘‘
Total needle : 1680
Types of Knitting : One side
 M/c no : 18-19
Brand name : SHIMA SEIKI
Country : Japan
Feeder : 4
Machine gauge : 14
Machine Width : 52‘‘
Total needle : 1680
Types of Knitting : Both Side
Raw materials for knitting:
Source of yarn for knitting:
1. Malwa Cotton Spinning Mills Ltd. (India)
2. Thermax Textile Mills Ltd. (TTML) Bangladesh
3. G Swadesh Mills Ltd (India)
4. Nahed Composite Textile Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)
5. Supreme Texmart Ltd. (India)
6. V.P.L (Owsal Group) India
7. Arif Textile Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)
8. Squire (Bangladesh)
9. R.S.W.M
10. Winsome
11. Chemma
12. GARG
13. GTN
14. Manal
15. Banif Spinning Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)
16. TMSML

28
Name of Buyer:
1. Best Seller
2. Rex & Holm
3. Russel
4. Gebel
5. Nak Fashion
6. C House
7. Pimkie Chanter
8. Peak Apparces
9. Mondial
10. Gebal
11. Teama Group
12. Kappa
13. N.J.C (Robint) USA
14. Litano
15. P & C
16. Fruit of the Wom
17. Nalt
18. Tom Tailor
19. Mavi
20. Ferrari
Lycra: CREORA
Made in Korea
Type # H-100 (20D, 40D)
Type of yarn Count
Cotton 20S
,24S
, 26S
, 28S
, 30S
, 32S
, 34S
, 36S
,40S
, 45S
Polyester 70D, 100D,150D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D
Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S
, 26S
Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S
, 26S
, 28S
Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S
, 26S
, 28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S
, 26S
, 28S
, 30S
CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S
, 26S
, 28S
, 30S

29
Name of product mix:
The product, which are available in knit dyeing floor are given below:
1. Single jersey / Single jersey with lycra.
2. Polo pique, Lacost (Single / Double).
3. Rib - (1x1), (2x2), (8x2), (9x2), (9x1).
4. Lycra Rib, Drop needle fabric.
5. Interlock.
6. Grey mélange.
7. Stripe (S/J, rib, interlock, grey mélange
Relation between G.S.M. & Yarn Count
For cotton / Blend / CVC fabric:-
S/J without Lycra -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
110 – 120 40 S
– 36 S
120 – 130 36 S
- 32 S
130 – 140 32 S
– 28 S
140 – 150 28 S
150 – 160 26 S
170 – 210 24 S
Rib without Lycra -
180 - 190 36 S
- 32 S
190 - 200 30 S
200 - 215 28 S
215 - 230 26 S
230 - 250 24 S
250 - 300 24 S
Interlock without Lycra –
Lacost (S/L, D/L) without Lycra
180 – 190 30 S
190 – 210 28 S
210 – 230 26 S
230 – 250 26 S
200 – 220 34 S
220 – 230 32 S
230 – 250 30 S
250 – 300 26 S

30
40D Lycra Rib –
40D Lycra S/J –
FABRIC TYPES:
1) Single Jersey
a) Single jersey (Plain)
b) Single lacoste
c) Double lacoste
d) Fleece fabric
e) Single lacoste Half Feet Lycra
f) Single lacoste Full Feet Lycra
2) Double jersey
a) Rib fabric
i) 1x1 Rib
ii) 2x1 Rib
iii) 2x2 Rib
iv) Lycra Rib
v) Flat Back Rib
b) Interlock Fabric
i) Plain interlock
ii) Design Interlock
iii)Drop needle interlock
3) Back Brush.
230 – 240 32 S
240 – 250 30 S
250 – 280 26 S
280 – 300 24 S
180 – 190 34 S
190 – 210 32 S
210 – 220 30 S
220 – 240 28 S
240 – 250 26 S

31
4) Collar and Cuff
i) Plain Collar or Solid collar
ii) Shaving Collar.
iii) Jacquard Collar.
iv) Tipping Collar.
v) Race Collar.
vi) Stripe Collar.
5) Different decorative single and double jersey fabric.
Some Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:
- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
- Finished G.S.M.
- Yarn count
- Stitch length
- Types of yarn (combed or carded)
- Diameter of the fabric.
Design analysis:
General Design Discussion:
Here,
= Knit loop
= Tuck loop
1 2 3 4 = Miss loop
1 2 1 2
Cam set up:
1
2
3
4
Needle arrangement: - 1 2 3 4/ 1 2 3 4//

32
This fabric can by produced by two tuck cam
Optimum cam set up: 1
2
Optimum needle: - 1 2 1 2/ 1 2 1 2//
In MONTEX FABRICS LTD. for double jersey m/c two Truck cam are generally
used to produce Rib, Interlock Thermal, Mini-Thermal, Waffle, Mini-Waffle etc fabric
Different Fabric with Structure, Notation diagram & Cam setting
Fabric: Single jersey
Notation Diagram
Plain structure
Cam Setting Arrangement
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
   
   
   
   
   

33
Needle Arrangement
1
2
N.B: 1 = One butt needle
 = Knit stitch 2 = Two butt needle
∆ = Knit cam
Inter lock Rib
D D
C C
D = Dial
C = Cylinder
Fabric: 1  1 Rib
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
D∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
C
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
Rib structure
Rib structure
D = Dial
C = Cylinder

34
Needle Arrangement
HL HL
L LS
11 11
22 22
N.B:
∆ = Knit cam
H =High butt needle
L = Low butt needle
1 = One butt needle
2 = Two butt needle
Fabric: 2  2 Rib
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
D
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
C
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆

35
Needle Arrangement
L H
L S
11 11
22 22
N.B:
∆ = Knit cam
H = High butt needle
L= Low butt needle
C= Cylinder
D= Dial
1 = One butt needle
2 = Two butt needle
Fabric: Plain Interlock
∆∆ ―― ∆∆ ――
―― ∆∆ ―― ∆∆
―― ∆∆ ―― ∆∆
∆∆ ―― ∆∆ ――
Interlock structure

36
Needle Arrangement
 H H
L L
1. 1 1
2 2
N.B:
∆ = Knit cam ― = Miss cam
H = High butt needle C = Cylinder
L = Low butt needle D = Dial
1= One butt needle
2 = Two butt needle
Single Lacoste:
Cam Setup: K K K T K
K T K K K
Knit cam (K)
Tuck (T) cam
Double Lacoste:
Cam Setup:
T T K K K
K K K T T
Pique:
Cam Setup: T T K K
K K T T

37
Some samples are given in below:
Name of the fabric Sample
1. single jersey ( cotton):
Face side shows Wales‘s wise straight
lines, on the other hand, backside shows
course wise wavy lines
2. single jersey slub
3. F.F. lycra Single jersey
4. Single jersey stripe
5. Single Lacoste
6. 1× 1 Rib:
Both sides of the fabric look similar
7. 2 ×1 Rib
8. 2× 2 Rib
9. Interlock:
Both sides are of similar look but less
stretchable than rib
10. Interlock stripe:
11. pique:
Face side looks like honeycomb and
backside shows wale‘s wise straight
lines
12. Fleece
13. Fleece (Terry)
14. Thermal

38
Methods of increasing production:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased
By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be
increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this
high speed.
By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of
courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
By using m/c of higher gauge:
The more the m/c gauge, the more the production is. So by using m/c of higher gauge
production can be increased.
By imposing other developments:
a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn
damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
d) Using auto lint removal.
Production calculation:
Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:
Production/shift in meter:
Fabric width in meter:
countYarn
mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM



80.3527
)(..
100/
.
100/
.




cmWales
knittinginusedNeedlesofnoTotal
cmWales
walesofnoTotal

39
GMS Calculation:
CPI × WPI × Stitch Length (mm) × 0.91
Yarn Count
CPI= Course Per Inch
WPI= Wells Per Inch
Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:
 M/cs are separated from m/c to m/c by using poly bag or fabric.
 Knitting floor should be cleaned for high quality fabric
 Operator should be skilled.
 Good quality fabric depends on good quality yarn.
 Before production m/c is oiled and greased properly
 G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions must be controlled.
 Grey Fabrics are checked by 4- point system
Changing of GSM:
 Major control by QAP pulley.
 Minor control by stitch length adjustment.
 Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley
moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse
direction G.S.M will increase.
Other m/c in Knitting Section:
01. Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : UZU fabric inspection m/c
02. Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.
03. Electric Balance for GSM check.
Production Parameter:
 M/c Diameter;
 M/c rpm (revolution per minute);
 No. of feeds or feeders in use;
 M/c Gauge;
 Count of yarn;
 Required time (M/C running time);
 M/c running efficiency

40
Relationship between knitting parameter:
 Stitch length GSM
 If stitch length fabric width
 If m/c gauge fabric width
 If yarn count fabric width
 If shrinkage then fabric width GSM and Wales per inch.
 For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
Effect of stitch length on color depth:
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of
fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is
adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller
Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change:
a) Cam setting
b) Set of needle
c) Size of loop shape
Faults &Remedies of knitting fabrics
Knitting faults:
Faults in circular knitting production can be caused in various ways and quite a few of
them cannot be related to just one cause. The following explanations are expected to be
helpful in trying to locate the causes of these faults easier.
Reasons of fabric faults:
- yarn manufacturing faults
- fabric manufacturing faults
- Fabric processing faults –dyeing, printing, finishing faults.
Sources of fabric faults:
The sources of faults could be (in circular knitting m/c, 80% faults comes from yarn)
- Faults in yarn and the yarn package.
- Yarn feeding and yarn feed regulator.
- M/c setting and pattern defects
- M/c maintenance
- Climatic conditions in the knitting plant.

41
Fabric faults:
Knitted fabric faults are very different in nature and appearance and are often
superimposed. The most common faults are:
- broken ends , holes or cracks
- drop stitch
- cloth fall out or pressed off stitches
- snagging or snags
- tuck or double loop or stitches
- Bunching up
- Vertical stripes
- Horizontal stripes
- Color fly or colored tinges
- Distorted stitches tinges
- Distorted stitches or deformed or titled loops
1. Holes:
Holes are the result of cracks or yarn breakages. During stitch formation the yarn had
already broken in the region of the needle hook. Depending on the knitted structure, yarn
count, m/c gauge and course density, the holes has different sizes. This size can therefore
only be estimated if the comparable final appearance of a comparable fabric is known.
Possible causes:
 yarn parameters
 high yarn irregularity
 Incorrect yarn input tension setting; yarn running-in tension is too high.
 poorly lubricated yarns
 weak places in yarn, which break during stitch formation
 knots, slubs etc
 yarn is too high
 if the yarn is trappet between the cheek taper and closing latch
- Yarn damage
 tool small stitches
- Difficulty in casting off of the stitches
 Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct yarn feeder badly set; defective
knitting elements.
2. Drop stitches:
These are the result of a defective needle. They also occur when a yarn is not properly fed
during stitch formation, i.e. not properly laid –in the needle hooks. These are the unlinked
knitted loops.
Possible causes:
 inaccurate insertion of the yarn into the needle hooks;
 Broken needle hook.
 Due to high yarn twist and low fabric take down tension the knitted loop could fall
out of the hook;
 Improper setting of the yarn feed angle i.e. badly set yarn feeder
 The yarn is not caught by the needle hook, example – lower yarn feeder and high yarn
vibrations.

42
 Yarn feeder wrongly threaded in.
a. Dial loop length nit properly related to cylinder loop length; the loop jumps out of the
needle hook.
b. Bad take –up.
c. Very dry material.
d. Insufficient yarn tension.
3. Cloth fall-out or pressed-off stitches:
It is an area consisting of drop stitches lying side by side. They can occur either when
a yarn is laid-out or when it breaks without any immediate connection. Cloth fall-out can
occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn
feeder and removes the yarn out of the hooks of the following needles.
Possible causes:
 Yarn breaks before the yarn feeder.
 Yarn package winding faults, poor package build up.
 Fibre fly block the yarn guides, feeders etc.
4. Needle marks or vertical stripes:
Vertical stripes can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. The space between
adjacent wales is irregular and the closed appearance of the fabric is broken up in an
unsightly manner. Vertical stripes and gaps in the fabric are often the result of a meager
setting, i.e. the yarn count selected. Needles are bent, damaged, do not move uniformly
smooth, come from different suppliers or are differently constructed.
Possible causes:
 Twisted or bent needle hooks.
 Stiff latches and needles.
 Incorrect closing of the hook by the latch.
 Heavily running needles.
 Damaged needle latch and needle hooks.
 Damaged dial and cylinder.
 Damages on other knitting elements.
5. Sinker Mark
Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new
loop as a result sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
Sinker should be changed.
6. Star Mark
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles

43
7. Oil stain
Causes:
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a
line.
Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
8. Pin hole
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle
9. Bairre:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width
wise) stripe(s).
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded
yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
 We can use this fabric in white color.
10. Fly:
Causes:
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due
to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric
surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
 Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
11. Yarn contamination
Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
Fault less spinning.

44
Yarn Faults:
 Neps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.
 Hairiness.
Remark:
The Montex Fabrics Ltd.produce best quality fabric. They use best quality yarn to
produce fabric the worker are very conceous to the parameter of knitting.
Comparison between different fabrics :( s/j, Fleece, Terry)

45
Comparison between different fabrics:( Interlock, Rib, Inter- Rib)
Source: FALMAC Pronitt Series

47
Batching:
Batching preparation is the process where visually inspected grey fabrics
are divided into deferent batches with reasonable quantity in order to make them
suitable for the further operation.
Function or purpose of batch section:
- To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
- To perform the grey inspection.
- Turn the grey fabric if require.
- To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following
criteria –
 Order sheet (Received from buyer)
 Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
 M/C capacity
 M/C available
 Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)
 Other
- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
- To keep records for every fabrics before dying.
Proper batching criteria:
- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage
time.
- To keep the no of batch as less as possible for same shade.
- To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

48
Process sequence of batch preparation:
Process sequence of batch preparation receive batch card from grey in-charge
Make the priority as per dyeing plan
Take one specific batch card
Read the batch card for own understanding
Check the availability of fabric
Take required quantity of body fabric from ware – house
Make required mp, of rope maintaining equal length
Take collar/ cuff as per size, keep the total weight
Distribute the collar/ cuff or rib in each rope equally ensure equal length
Stitch the fabric
Write down the weight against roll no, in the back side of the batch card
Write the total weight in batch card
Put signature and date
Fill up the production report form

49
M/Cs in batch section:
M/c no : 01
Machine Name : Turning m/c
Origin : Local
Capacity : 10 ton to 16 ton per day
Inspection m/c:
No. of m/c: two (2)
M/c name : Inspection m/c
Brand Name :
Origin : Local
Capacity :
Common Knitting faults:
0. Barren or stripe.
1. Press off.
2. Miss stitch / drop stitch.
3. Needle mark.
4. Sinker mark.
5. Oil stain.
6. Crease mark/ edge mark.
7. Holes.
8. Excessive slubs and entanglement in the fabric.
9. Spatiality.
10.Broken needle.
11.Pin hole.
12.Tight course.
13.Missing yarn.
14.Fine yarn.
15.Coarse yarn.
16.Colored fly or soiled fly etc.

51
Final lab
Lab dip:
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying
dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of ―DATA COLOR‖
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the
dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task
before bulk production.
Organogram
Manager
Lab In-charge
Supervisor
Senior technician
Technician
Operator
Helper
Duties & Responsibilities of Production manager:
To collect order sheet from merchandiser
To talk with knitting master for necessary m/c set up
To collect the production accessories for production
To discuss with AGM about overall production if necessary
Any other assignment given by the authority.
Working Sequence of lab dyeing:
Sample In (Fabrics)
Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no& Collar
Sample Preparation

52
Run the test
Physical test Wet lab
Color Fastness to wash
Bursting strength
Pilling Color Fastness to washing
Crocking
Evaluate the sample Pre-production Sample Final sample
Report Making Test Test
Prepared the report prepared the report
Pass Fail
Deliver Refinish Pass Fail Pass Fail
Need to test again Go for the final Refinish
Need to test again
Dimensional stability.
Prepare the sample
Wash the sample according to buyer method.
Tumble dry
Keep the sample flat in the conditioned temperature
at least four hours before, after measurement.
Measure the sample
Prepared the report
Pass Fail
Ready to delivery Refinish
Need to test again

53
Space for
Preparation
Iron
Test m/c
Digital
PH
meter Wash room
Hardness
Tester
PH
tester
Light fastness room
tacolor
chine
Lab manager table
Table
Table
Basin
Dyeing m/c
Power
Sample
dyeing
m/c
Washi
ng m/c
Tumbl
e
dryer
Dryer Washing
m/c
Washing m/c Dyeing
m/c
Count
tester m/c
Digital
Rubbing
Manual
rubbing
Visual
rubbing
Twist
tester m/c
Perspiration
tester
Gray
scale
Pilling
tester
Digital
printin
g m/c
Digital
balance
Dia
m/c
Dark
room
Lightfastnessm/c

54
M/c Speciation:
LABORATORY MACHINERIES WITH ITS SPECIFICATION:
1. M/c type: Dryer
M/c name: Rapid Dryer
Brand name: Rapid Dysin
Country: China
2. M/c type: washing
M/c name: wascatar
Brand name: SDL Atlas
Country: China
3. M/c type: washing
M/c name: wascatar
Brand name: SDL Atlas
Country: China
4. M/c type: Dryer
M/c name: Trumble Dryer
Country: China

55
5. M/c type:Dyeing m/c
Brand name: STARLET
Country: China
Brand name: STARLET
Country: China
Brand name: STARLET
Country: China
Brand name: Ossilator
Country: Taiwan

56
Brand name: Ossilator
Country: Taiwan
10. M/c type: Dyeing m/c
Brand name: Rapid Dyeing m/c
Country: China
Country: China
Country: China

57
13. M/c type: BALANCE
Country: China
14. M/c type: Pipet
M/c name: Digital Pipet
Country: koria
15. M/c type: Dryer
M/c name: Rapid Dryer
Brand name: Rapid Dysin
Country: China
16. M/c type: Pilling test m/c
Brand name: Paramount
Country: Koria

58
17. M/c type: Pilling Light Source
Country: Koria
18. M/c type:Prespiration test m/c
Country: Koria
19. M/c type:Twits tester m/c
Country: China
20. M/c type: Count tester m/c
Country: China

59
21. M/c type: Rubbing test m/c
Brand name: digital
Country: China
23. m/c type: PH meter
Country: Koria
22. M/c type: Rubbing test m/c
Brand name:
Country: China

60
24. M/c type: computer + spectrophotometer
25. M/c type: light fastness m/c
Brand name: Q.Sun
Country: Koria / japan

61
Raw material
Available Stock Solutions:
Red – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
Yellow – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
Blue - 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common).
Preparation:
To prepare 0.1% Stock solution, it is necessary to mix 0.1 g dye and 100 cc water.
To prepare 0.5% Stock solution, 0.5 g dye stuff is mixed with 100 cc water.
To prepare 1.0% & 2.0% Stock solution similar procedure is followed.
To prepare 10% Stock solution of Soda ash, 10 g Soda is mixed with 100 cc water.
Depth of shade:
 Montex Fabrics Ltd. Produces 0.1% to 5% shade for the goods.
2.0%for deep shade.
 1.0%for medium shade.
 0.5%for deep shade.
 0.1%for light shade.
Montex Fabrics Ltd. produces 0.5% to 5% shade for the goods.
Amount of salt soda for Remazol dyes
Percent 0-0.1 .1-0.5 .5-1.0 1.0-2.0 2.0-3.0 3.0-5.0 >5.0
Salt 20 20-25 25-40 40-50 50-60 60-80 80+
Soda 5 5-7 7-10 10-13 13-15 15-20 20+
Calculation:
Usually following calculations are followed –
Recipe % ×Sample Weight
Dye Solution = (cc).
Stock solution %
Recipe % ×Liquor)
Salt = (gram per liter).
1000
Recipe % × 100 ×Liquor)
Soda Solution = (cc).
(1000×Stock solution %)

62
Sample calculation for 0.5% shade
Sample wt. = 5 mg
Material liquor ratio = 1: 10
Total liquor (5 10) = 50 cc
5 0.5%
Dye solution required = = 2.5 cc
1 %
50 25
Salt solution required = = 6.25 cc
20 10
50 10
Soda ash solution required = = 2.5 cc
20 10
Water required {50 - (2.5 + 6.25 + 2.5)} = 38.75 cc
Sequence of dyeing 100% cotton fabric in lab:
Select bleach fabric ( 5 gm)
Recipe making
Select dyes
Dyeing
Hot wash
Neutralization
Soaping
Cold wash
Drying
Match with standard sample
Yes
Bulk production







63
Sequence of dyeing polyester /cotton fabric in lab:
Select bleach fabric (5 gm)
Carbonizing of cotton part
Fabric weight measure after carbonized part
Recipe making
Select dyes
Dyeing of polyester part
Matching dyed polyester part with std.
Yes
Hot wash
Reduction clearing
Soaping
Neutralization
Cold wash
Dyeing of cotton part
Hot wash
Soaping
Neutralization
Cold wash
Drying
Total sample match with standard sample
Yes
Bulk production
Note: cellouse fibre dissolves in 70% H2SO4 acid solution when treated at 700
c for 10′

64
Quality management system:
Q.C
On-line Off-line
Online tests are:
1. For Pretreatment test
 Absorbency test
 Fabric width measure
 Weightness test
 Water quality test
 PH test
2. For dyeing
 Dyed fabric.
 Shade matching check
 PH check
 Wash fastness check
3. Machine check
Off-line tests are
1. Physical test
 GSM of fabric
 Smoothness of fabric
 Pilling test
 Shrinkage test
 Spirality test
2. chemical test
 Color fastness

65
Dying with sample
Recipe Sample
16-0435 Tex
Yellow 4 GL=0.8%
Yellow MERL=0.76%
T/Blue-HFG=0.088%
40/10
Orange
Orange ME2RL=1.5%
Yellow MERL=0.75%
Black B=0.0026%
50/12
Red
Orange MERL=2.3%
Red 4GL=3%
Black B =0.022%
70/17
Green
Yellow-4GL=6.4%
YellowMERL=0.36%
T/BlueETQ=4.8%
80/20
Yellow
YellowRR=2.6%
Blue KHL=0.012%
32/8
Black
yellow MERL=1.5%
Red 4BL=1.1%
Black-Agr=5.2%
80/20
Khak-1
Yellow-RR=0.76%
Red-RR=0.26%
Nevy-RR=0.46%
40/10
Turqis
Yellow-RR=0.17%
Red-RR=0.038%
Yellow-RR=0.6%

66
LAB DIP DEVELOPMENT
DEFINITION:
Lab Dip Development means the sample which is dyed according to buyer‘s
requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample
dyeing and bulk production is dyeing planning done.
OBJECTIVE OF LAB DIP:
The main objectives in lab are as follows:
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved lab dip (Grade:ABC)
DEVELOPMENT OF LAB DIP:
Receiving standard swatch
↓
Spectrophotometer reading
↓
Recipe start up software
↓
Start up recipe given
↓
Manual dispersion (pipatting)
↓
Pot dyeing
↓
Unload
↓
Normal wash
↓
Acid wash
↓
Hot wash
↓
Cold Rinsing
↓
Drying

67
Instrumental Color matching Process
Spectrophotometer flow Chart:
Spectrophotometric measurent
Colour fastness is usually assessed separately with respect to:
 It is an alternative to the visual method of assessment by Grey Scale. The
colour of the specimen which has been subjected to the colour fastness test
and the colour of an original specimen are measured instrumentally by
spectrophotometric measurement.
 The CIE LAB coordinates for lightness L*, chroma C* and hue H* for both
specimens are measured.
Triangle shade
Initial recipe
Laboratory dyeing
Use L*, a*, b* to match
OK
Production dyeing
Use L*, a*, b* to match
Recipe correction
Not matched
Production correction
Not matched
Input database
History of the lab
Recipe Prediction calculated by CCM
Or calculated by smart shade library
Finished
OK

68
 The total colour difference value AE* which is the function of AL *, AC*, AH
* are calculated and converted to a Grey, Scale by means of a series of
equations or by the following table
Table for Grey Scale Colour Change Step Values according to AATCC Evaluation
Procedure 7
Colour fastness is a term that describes the propensity of an article to
Change or lose colour when treated in a certain way
Functions of spectrophotometer:
1. Color difference
2. Metamerism
3. Pass/fail operation
4. Fastness rating
5. Shade library
6. Cost comparison
7. Color match production
8. Reflectance curve.
COLOUR MEASUREMENT OF STANDARD SAMPLE:
Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as
possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard sample with the
standard one is compulsory. Color measurement can be done by two methods-

69
In manual method, the std. sample‘s color is measured by comparing it with
previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample
with which the color of the std. matched, that sample‘ color recipe is being taken for
shade matching. This method‘s accuracy completely depends on the vision of the
person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about color
matching.
The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of
color measurement. ―Spectrophotometer‖ interfaced with a PC is used for shade
matching. This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of
light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under
spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic
colors within the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement
of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.
Common test which are tested in Montex Fabric Ltd. Lab:
Adjacent Fabrics
Single fibre adjacent fabric -
 It should be plain weave, medium mass per unit area and free from dyes or
fluorescent whitening agents.
 Generally two single fibre adjacent fabrics are attached to specimen. The first
of fabric shall be of the same kind of fibre as the material under test and the
second shall be that indicated or as otherwise stated.
Color Measurement
Manual Method Instrumental Method

70
Multifibre adjacent fabrics
Assessment of Colourfastness and Staining
The result of colourfastness test is rated by-
 Visually comparing the difference in colour or contrast between the untreated
and treated specimens with the differences represented by the scale. Gray scle
for Colour change is being used for colour change assessment.
 Visually comparing the difference in colour or the contrast between the
stained and unstained adjacent fabrics with the differences represented by
scale. Gray sacle for staining is being used for staining assessment.
The evaluation is done under specific lighting and viewing conditions.

71
Conditions of Viewing
 The source under which the comparison is made can beD65 - daylight
(Preferred in European market)
D75 - daylight (Preferred in American Market)
A - Incandescent
CWF - Cool white fluorescent
UV - Ultra Violet
 The specimen should be placed on a flat, uniform surface having no
distortions.The surrounding field shall me matte surface and uniform grey.
Dark Room

72
ASSESSING COLOUR FASTNESS
Conditions of viewing
• The specimen plane is at 45° angle to horizontal. The light is incident upon the
surfaces at an angle of approximately 45°, and the direction of viewing is
approximately along the perpendicular to the plane of the surfaces.
 For assessment, a piece of the original and the tested specimen, or the undyed
and stained adjacent fabrics, are arranged side by side in the same plane and
oriented in the same direction.
 If test specimen is thin then it should be backed with number of layers of clean
test cloth so as to avoid effect of other backing.
 For optimum precision, the areas of contrast to be compared shall be
approximately of same size and shape; if necessary; this can be achieved by
the use of mask of neutral grey color.
Colour fastness to Washing
Evaluates the colorfastness to Laundering of textiles which are expected to withstand
frequent or accelerated laundering.
Equipment: Launder meter

74
Conditions of Viewing
Interpretation of the grades
The end result of any colorfastness test is a grade given to the tested sample
Grade 5- NO CHANGE
Grade 4 - SLIGHT CHANGE
Grade 3 - NOTICEABLE CHANGE
Grade 2 - CONSIDERABLE CHANGE
Grade 1 - SEVERE CHANGE
Failures and improvements
Colour fastness to washing:
WHY FAILURE?
 The dyes are not fixed well.
 Improper quality dyes used.
 Bad dyeing / Bad printing.
 Improper finishing / improper curing.

75
HOW TO IMPROVE?
 Better selection of dyestuffs and dye methods and process controls are
suggested to enhance the colorfastness performance. Color-stripping
and re-dying may be required.
Remark: The above recommendation is not to be used when fabric is yarn dyed.
Color fastness to rubbing
Why Should We Test?
To determine the resistance of tested sample to rubbing
.
This determines the quality of dying or printing including the quality of
colourant used and the quality of process involved in producing the coloured
textile/textile end product.
Apparatus - Crock meter

76
Assessment of color staining of the rubbing cloth after wet rubbing.

77
The scale with fastness grades 1 to 3 of the nine step scale is applied.
WHY FAILURE?
 The dye particles sticking on the surface of fabric causes staining to
White fabric when it is rubbed.
 Sulphur, Pigment and Indigo have POOR Rubbing fastness.
 Bad dyeing / Bad printing / Bad fixing.
 Improper finishing / improper curing.
HOW TO IMPROVE?
 A good and thorough SOAPING will remove the undyed particles and
improve the Rubbing fastness.
 Good dye & dye fixing to be used
 Better selection of dyestuff with necessary certification from dye
manufacturer.
 In case of Pigment prints good curing.

78
Color fastness to Perspiration
This test is used to determine the fastness of colored textiles to the effects of
perspiration. It is applicable to dyed, printed or otherwise colored textile fibers, yarns
& fabrics of all kinds and to the testing of dyestuffs as applied to textiles.
Apparatus and Materials
1. Perspirometer
2. Balance with weighing accuracy of +1- 0.001 g
3. Drying oven
4. pH meter
5. Volumetric flask
6. Petridish
7. Multifibre test fabric
8. Gray scale for staining and colour change
ISO Persiciration Solution Chemicals
Acidic (per litre)
• O.5g histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate
• 5g sodium chloride
• 2.2g sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate
• Required pH 5.5
Alkaline (per litre)
• O.5g histidine monohydrochloride
monohydrate
• 5g sodium chloride
• 2.5g disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate
• Required pH 8
Apparatus

79
Color fastness to Light
Principle:
A specimen of the textile to be tested is exposed to artificial light under
prescribed conditions, along with agreed standards (blue wool reference).
The colourfastness is being assessed by comparison of the colour change of the
exposed portion to the masked control portion of the test specimen using gray scale or
blue references used.
Machine and Material
Air Cooled type Machine Blue Wool Standard
Standard Reference Materials
 ISO Blue wool reference standards
Blue wool reference developed and produced in Europe are identified by the numerical
designation 1 to 8. They range from 1 (very low colour fastness) to 8 (very high fastness)
so that each higher-numbered reference is approximately twice as fast as the preceding
one

80
Pilling Test
Pilling is a process of formation of pill because of entanglement of surface
fibres during wear. The propensity of pilling is determined by the rates of following
parallel processes:
- Fibre entanglement leading to pill formation;
- Development of more surface fibre;
- Fibre and pill wear off.
Fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and pilling is determined by:
- Martindale Method
- Pill box method
- Random tumble method

81
ICI Pill Box
Pilling - Visual assessment
5 - No Visual Change
4 - Slight surface fuzzing and! or partially formed pills.
3 - Moderate surface fuzzing/or moderate pilling. Pills
of varying size and density partially covering the
specimen
2 - Distinct surface fuzzing and/ or distinct pilling.Pills
of varying size and density covering a large proportion
of specimen.
1 - Dense surface fuzzing and / or severe pilling.Pills of
varying size and density covering the whole of the
specimen
WHY FAILURE?
 Inferior yarn with less staple fibers (Carded) are used in the fabric
construction.
 Use of synthetic fibers with natural fibers may induce static energy which can
cause pilling.
HOW TO IMPROVE?
 Selection of good combed yarns is very much essential in preventing pilling.
 Use of Antipilling/ Enzyme treatments may reduce pilling to
 lncase of SyntheUc and natural fibers, may use any antistatic finishes.

82
Dimensional Stability to Washing
Manufacturers concerns are with residual shrinkage and relaxation shrinkage.
Residual shrinkage is what takes place over a period of time from laundering and
care.
Relaxation shrinkage occurs when the strained yarns relax after the stress placed on
them is released. When washing these goods the fabric tension is relaxed and they
come to relaxed state.
This test method is intended for the determination of dimensional changes in woven
& knit fabrics / garments, when subjected to repeated automatic laundering
procedures commonly used at home.
The dimensional changes of textile specimen subjected to washing are measured
using pair of bench marks applied to the fabric before washing.
Apparatus
Front Loading Washing Machine
Drying Methods
 Line dry - Specimen is hanged by two corners with the fabric length in
vertical direction.
 Drip dry - Dripping wet specimen is hanged by two corners with the fabric
length in vertical direction.
 Flat dry - Specimen is dried by spreading on a horizontal screen or perforated
surface removing wrinkles without stretching and distorting it.
 Tumble dry
- ISO dryer: Auto reversing action

83
Sample Marking:
‘Iso
Calculation
 Wash and dry the sample 3 times for AATCC and once for ISO as per the
procedure explained earlier.
 Condition the sample. After conditioning lay each test specimen without
tension on a flat smooth horizontal surface. Measure and record distance
between each pair of benchmarks.
 Calculate the difference between the before wash and after wash measures and
report in %.
DC%= 100(B-A)/A
DC = Dimensional Change
A = Original Dimension
B = Dimension after Laundering
Shrinkage is denoted as ‗-‗which is decrease in dimensions Elongation is denoted as
‗+‗which is increase in dimensions.
Dimensional Stability to washing:
WHY FAILURE?
 During spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and the various finishing
processes. yarns and cloth are under a continuous tension.
 Yarns and/or fabrics are not fixed materials. They consist of separate,
stretchable fibers which submit to the tension. In other words, fabrics do
stretch in length and width.
 The tension within the yarns is eliminated when friction occurs during
laundering where both water and soap act as a lubricant.
 The lubricant, along with the mechanical action of the washer, helps the fibers
relax and contract to their original length before the elongation takes place.

84
 This means that the fabric shrinks.
HOW TO IMPROVE?
 A mechanical means of reducing the shrinkage (compacting, overfeeding,
Sanforising) is suggested.

86
The process by which a textile material is changed physically or chemically so
that it looks colorful is called dyeing
Dyeing is the process of coloring textile materials by immersing them in an
aqueous solution of dye, called dye liquor. Normally the dye liquor consists of dye,
water and auxiliary. To improve the effectiveness of dyeing, heat is applied to the
liquour.
Dyeing theory covers a wide range of subjects mainly in the area of physical
chemistry. As for all theory, the aim is to provide a set of hypotheses that explain the
behavior of known dyeing systems, and which are capable of predicting what will
happen in a new situation. Dyeing theory has many qualitative aspects that are useful
in explaining practical dyeing, but the physic-chemical measurements on dyeing
processes that provide quantitative data are often far removed from actual dyeing
practice. Some of the subjects included in dyeing theory are:
The state of dyes in solution and in the fiber during and after dyeing.
The rates of dyeing processes and how these are influenced by mass-transfer
of dye from the bath solution to the dye–fiber interface, and by diffusion of
the dye from the interface into the fiber.
The phenomena occurring at the dye–fiber interface such as dye molecule
adsorption and the effects of surface potentials.
The nature of the interactions between dye and fiber molecules, which are the
origin of substantively.
The treatment of dyeing as a thermodynamic equilibrium and its description in
terms of thermodynamic variables.
The theory of fiber structure and how this influences dyeing rates and
equilibrium.
Many of these subjects are discussed briefly, and qualitatively, in other chapters of
this book. This present chapter will introduce some of the more quantitative aspects of
dyeing equilibrium and kinetics.
The general theory dyeing explains the interaction between bye, fiber , water and dye
auxiliary. It explains-
Force of repulsion: which are developed between the dye molecules & water.
Forces of attraction: which are developed between the dye molecules &
fiber?
The forces are responsible for the dye molecules leaving the aqueous dye liquor and
entering & attaching themselves to the polymers of the fiber. First one is performed
by the forces of repulsion & the second is performed by forces of attraction.
The dyeing theory of dyeing
Dyeing

87
Successive stage in the dyeing:
Dye dispersed in the dye bath
↓↑ (convective diffusion)
Dye in the diffusion layer
↓↑molecular diffusion)
Dye in the electrical double layer
↓↑ ( absorption)
Dye absorbed on the fibre surface
↓↑ ( duffusion)
Dye diffused in the fibre dye physically or chemically bond in the fiber
↓↑ (fixation)
wet processing technology -1 md. Moshiour rahman
Chromophores: the name is derived from the Greek chroma = color and phore from
protein = to bear. The group that causes the appearance of color when introduced into
a chromogen and causes one or more absorption brands to appear in the visible
spectrum to mixture on by UV rays.
 Chromophores are unsaturated organic radicals.
 Their specific state of unsaturation enables them to absorb and reflect incident
electromagnetic radiation with in the very narrow band of visible light.
 The chromophores give the dye molecules its particular color.
 A molecule processing mo chromophores would be colorless.
Example of dyes: direct dye, acid dye, vat dye, basic, disperse, sulpher, reactive dye
etc.
Auxo chromes: the name is derived from the Greek auxein = to increase and chroma
= color. Auxochromes are organic radicals. The group present in dye except
chromophore grou is called auxochromes.
Goals of dyeing:
 Shade with in tolerance limit.
 Perfect leveling.
 No crease mark
 Fastness properties according to requirement.
Electrolytes:
Since the dye molecule and textile mtls, both become slightly negatively charged in
acqueous solution, there is a tendency for the dye and the fibre to repel each.
Sufficient energy has to be built up to overcome this repulsive force in dye liquor and
allow the dye and textile mtls to be attracted to one another so that the dye molecules
can emter the polymer system of the fibre. The addition of an electrolyte to the liquor
increases the uptake of the dye by the fibre.

88
Dye selection depends:
Factors to be considered for dye and dyeing process selects:
1. Hue: Hue means the name of color i.e. blue, green, and pink. The hue is of
great importance. Usually a mixture of hue is required to produce the desired
shade.
2. Shade: The meaning of shade is concentration. Usually the depth of tone of
color is shade, for this greater dye exists in fibre. So cost of dyeing is much. If
too much depth of shade affect on fastness properties or dyeing.
Example:
3. Brightness: It expresses how bright or unbright the object is some dye is
naturally bright i.e. basic dye and some dye is dull shade.
4. Cost: We have to motice to csot during the selection of dueing procedure.
Some dyes are cheap e.g. acid dye and some dyes are very costly e.g. reactive
dye, vat dye.
5. Fastness required: Resistance of mtl. To change in any of its color
characterstics.
6. Environmental pollution: The dyes are applied so that it does not pollute
environment.
7. Condition of application: Pigment dye is applied in continuous m/c which
application method facilities. But we have discontinuous m/c.
8. Availability: Dye must be available in dyeing factory.
Terms and definition of dyeing
1. Shade:
Depth of color %
Light shade- 0.5% own
Mediums shade- 1.5
Deep shde – 1.5 or 1.6 and above
For deep shade, fastness properties of dye, increase and decreased of washing
fastness.
2. Substantively: substantivity means the rate of dye transfer from the dye sol to the
textile mtls and also the distribution of dye molecules in the textile mtls.
Substantivity is caused for different types of attraction between dye molecules
and textile mtl molecules.
3. Affinity: the attraction of dyes to the textile mtls is called affinity. It is related to
heat or temperature. Dyeing is performed for the affinity of dye and fibre. Dyeing
affinity very with the temp.
4. Color strike: initial exhaustion on the fibre in a dye bath is called color strike. All
the starting of dyeing, the rate of transfer of dye from the dye sol to the textile
mtls is more than any other time. About 30 seconds 50% of dyeing is completed.
5. Exhaustion: when three process complete (ad sorption, sorption, desorption) then
total dye molecules enters fibre then it is called exhaustion.

89
Or the difference between the total dye molecules in the dye sol and the rest of the
molecules in the dye sol after dyeing is called exhaustion.
Let initial dye bath concentration = IDC
Dye bath concentration after dyeing = FDC
IDC – FDC
Exhaustion % = × 100
IDC
Dyestuff Exhaustion%
Reactive
Disperses
Direct
Sulpher
6. Adsorption: when dye molecules come to the surface of the fibre, it is called
adsorption.
7. Sorption: when dye molecule enters into fibre then it is called sorption.
8. desorption: the process by which the dye molecules come out from the inner side
of the textile mtls in particular conditions (such as mil, time , temple) is called
desorption.
Sorption
Adsorption
0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0
Desorption
0
0 0
Souring:
The treatment / the process by which the fabric, after processing with alkali or
scouring, is treated with Hydrochloric acid or dilute H2SO4 for removing alkali or
neutralization of alkali is scouring.
Types of dyeing m/c:
High pressure Winch dyeing m/c
Beam dyeing m/c
Jigger dyeing m/c
Jet dyeing m/c

90
Description of winch dyeing m/c (for knit dyeing):
Winch dyeing
The winch or beck dyeing machine is quite simple and serves for all scouring,
bleaching, dyeing, washing-off and softening processes.
The machine contains a length of fabric with the ends sewn together, which is
compressed to form a continuous rope. This rope passes from the dye bath over two
elevated reels and then falls back into the bath
Illustration of a winch dyeing machine with Autoloda
The first roller is free-running (jockey or fly roller).
The second (winch reel) is driven and controls the rate of rope transport and the
extent of pleating where the rope accumulates below and behind the winch. Both reels
extend the full length of the machine and accommodate several fabric ropes running
side by side. The fabric rope is held on the winch by Autolodfriction and its own
weight.
Covering the winch with polypropylene or polyester tape increases the friction.
Deep-draught winches have circular or only slightly elliptical winch reels and the
fabric falls into the back of the dyebath with little pleating. This type of winch is
preferred when fabric stretching may occur
The bottom of the machine slopes from back to front so that the fabric accumulating
behind the winch easily moves forward. Tubular knitted fabrics, with a compact
construction, tend to form a balloon filled with air just below the jockey roll. This
is desirable since crease locations change with each cycle. An elevated driven roller at
the front of the machine is used to load and unload the goods.
A perforated baffle separates the liquor in the front of the machine from the
remainder. This part of the machine is called the salting box. Both dyes and
chemicals are added to it during dyeing and gradually mix into the remainder of the
solution.
All additions must be made across the full length of the machine with stirring.

91
Heating is by steam injection from a perforated pipe running along the length of the
salting box. Careful design is necessary to ensure that steam condenses before
reaching the liquor surface. Direct steam injection causes some bath dilution and can
be quite noisy when steam bubbles collapse explosively on rapid cooling, or when
they strike the walls. The machine is preferably closed to avoid steam and heat losses,
particularly when dyeing at or near the boiling point.
The problem of non-uniform temperature in the bath, caused by the cooled fabric
falling into the back of the bath, can be minimised by use of a pump to circulate the
bath solution. The liquor ratio is typically about 20:1.
During dyeing, the bulk of the fabric is moving slowly in the dyebath. The rate
of dyeing is partly `controlled by the rate of rope cycling and usually increases with
increasing winch speed. The winch is usually run quite fast but not at such a speed as
to damage to fabric, or promote its elongation or felting.
Several ropes of equal length (50–100 m) are usually dyed side by side, being
kept apart by pegs in a long rail below the fly roller. The hinged peg rail lifts if a
tangled rope arrives, automatically turning off the winch drive. Short lengths of
bindividual ropes require more sewing and more time to locate the seams for
unloading. There is an obvious advantage if one long, continuous spiral of rope
advances through the machine from one side to the other. It then returns to thestart by
way of a sloping trough or tube filled with dye solution at the back of the machine. In
this case, a continuous helical metal spiral, whose pitch determines the loop spacing,
replaces the peg rail. This type of loading is more uniform and allows a lower liquor-
to-goods ratio.
Main parts of a Winch dyeing m/c:

93
Organogram:
AGM
Senior Manager
Manager
Production officer (shift 01) Production officer (shift 02)
In-charge (per shift) In-charge(per shift)
Supervisor (per shift) Supervisor (per shift)
Senior operator (per shift senior operator (per shift)
Operator (per m/c) Operator (per m/c)
Helper (per m/c) Helper (per m/c)
Working sequence of dyeing section:
Fabric receiving
Fabric inspection Pre -process
Batching
Scouring
Bleaching Pre-treatment
Enzyme (if required)
Dyeing
After treatment & Softening

94
Sample dyeing Sample dyeing
Bangle dyeing
Winch-6
Capacity-120kg
Winch-8
Capacity-900kg
Winch-5
Capacity-600kg
Winch-9
Capacity-1200kg
Winch-7
Capacity-130kg
Winch-4
Capacity-900kg
Winch-3
Capacity-450kg
Winch-10
Capacity-600kg
Store room
Winch-2
Capacity-50kg
Winch-11
Capacity-600kg
Store room
Winch-1
Capacity-800kg
Winch-13
Capacity-600kg
Bangle squeezer
Store keeper
Super visor
Color matching cabinet
Slitting m/c
Manager table

95
Speciation of dyeing mc:
a. Sample dyeing m/c specification:
b. Bulk dyeing m/c:
Bulk dyeing m/c:
Machine no : 01
Machine name : Dilmenler
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : DMS12 HTECOFLOW
M/c capacity : 800 kg
Working pressure : 3-5 bar (maxi.)
Working temperature : 1350
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 12H08002001006
Production Date : 2001
Machine no : 02
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : DMS12 HTECOFLOW
M/c capacity : `````````` kg
Working pressure : 3-5 bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 12H08002001006
Machine no : 03
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : DMS11HT JUMBO GET FLOW
Working pressure : 3 bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 11H04502003044
Machine no : 04
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : DMS11HT JUMBO GET FLOW
Working pressure : 3 bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 11H09002003065

96
Machine no : 05
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : DMS11HT ECO FLOW
Working pressure : 3.5bar (maxi.)
working temperature : 1350
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 12H06002000021
Machine no : 06
Machine name : Bangle dyeing
Country : local
M/c type :
Working pressure : - bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/10
M/c serial no : -
Machine no : 07
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : DMS11ST JUMBO
Working pressure : 2.5 bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 11H09002009025
Machine no : 08
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : MMS11HT JUMBO
Working pressure : 2.5bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 11H12002006109

97
Machine no : 09
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : DMS12A ATM ECOFLOW
Working pressure : - bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 12A06002001004
Machine no : 10
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : DMS12A ATM ECOFLOW
Working pressure :- bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 12A06002001005
Machine no : 11
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : O2A SOFT FLOW
Working pressure : bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 02A0375200001
Machine no : 12
Country : Turkiye
M/c type : MANMOOL
Working pressure : -bar (maxi.)
c (maxi.)
Liquid ratio : 1/6
M/c serial no : 02A0375200001

98
Sample m/c: 01 Sample m/c: 02
Sample m/c: 03 Sample m/c: 04
Raw material:
Source of fabrics:
 Montex Fabrics ltd.
 Alim knit fabric ltd.
 Cotton club (BD) ltd.
 Mondol knit wear ltd.
Dyes and chemicals (sheet)
Dyes chemical sheet present on inventory section in this report
General flow chart of dyeing section:

99
Objectives of Scouring
Grey fabric receive from knitting section
Batching
Select m/c no
Fabric loading
Select production program
Pre treatment
Select recipe for dyeing
Recipe confirm by D.M/S.P.O
Dyeing
After treatment
Unload
Pre treatment process: Scouring & bleaching
Scouring:
The team ―Scouring‖ applies to the remove of impurities such as oil, wax, gum,
soluble impurities and solid dirt commonly found in textile material and produces a
hydrophilic and clean cloth.
The process consists essentially of treatment with alkali, with or without detergent.
When soap is used a good supply of water is essential.
The loom state cotton fabric contains about 8-12% natural impurities of total weight
of the fiber . These impurities mainly consists of waxes, proteins, pectic substances
and mineral matters. In addition to this, the mechanically held impurities called
'motes' are present containing seed-coat fragments, aborted seeds and leaves etc. that
clinge to the fiber . Apart from these, the loom-state fabric is also contaminated with
adventiteous oils such as machine oils, tars, greases etc.
Scouring is a purifying treatment of textiles. The objective of scouring is to reduce the
amount of impurities sufficiently to obtain level and reproducible results in dyeing
and finishing operations. Scouring agents can be generally classified into different
groups.

100
To remove natural impurities like oil, wax, fatty materials as well
as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character as
completely as possible.
To increase absorbency of textile material i.e. fabric.
To transfer the fabric hydrophobic to hydrophilic.
The scouring efficiency is mainly depends on maturity, fineness
and origin of cotton fiber s.
Parameter of dyeing:
Waxes present in the fabric cannot be removed in saponification. These are esters of
higher fatty alcohol & fatty acids similarly mineral oils, lubricants oil etc cannot be
converted into water soluble product by boiling with NaOH solution. The process of
emulsification is used in the scouring of cotton material containing non-saponifated
oil such product can be removed by emulsifier.
Thus the scouring solution should also contain an emulsifying agent in addition to
Sodium hydroxide and wetting agent ordinary soap (washing) is good emulsifying
agent.
Scouring Agent
Alkalile Agents Surfactants Emulsion Scouring
Organic Solvent
NaOH, KOH,
Na2CO3,
Liquid NH 3 .
(Sodium metasilicate,
Sodium Silicate,
Sodium
phosphate, Trisodium
phosphate,
Tetrasodium
phosphate, Sodium
tripolyphosphate,
borax etc.)
Anionic activator,
Non-ionic
activator
Chlorine System
Carbontetrachloride,
Trichloroethylene,
Perchloroethylene,
Methylchloroform,
Trichloromethane,
Fluorine.
Hydrocarbon System
Benzene,
Industrial
gasoline,
White spirit,
Solvent naptha.

101
Bleaching
Object of Bleaching
Bleaching:
Bleaching of textile material is a chemical or commercial process which can be
defined as
Destruction of natural coloring matters to impart a pure permanent and basic white
effects suitable for the production of white finishes, level dyeing and desired printed
shade with the minimum or no tendering (degradation) or without diminishing the
tensile strength.
Destruction of natural coloring matter from the fiber
To impart a pure permanent & basic white effect to the fiber
To obtain permanent white color of the fabric
To increase absorbency of textile material for dyeing printing etc.
Methods of Bleaching:
Bleaching in kier
Bleaching in j box
Oxidation Bleaching Agents Reductive Bleaching Agents
Chlorine System
Bleaching powder
Sodium hypochlorite
Lithium hypochlorite
Sodium chlorite
Chloramine
Isocynual trichloride
Sulphur dioxide
Sodium hydrosulphite
Sulphoxylates
Acidic sodium sulphite
Sodium bisulphites
Peroxide System
Hydrogen peroxide
Sodium peroxide
Sodium perborate
Potassium permanganate
Peracetic acid
Other peracids
Bleaching Agents

102
Pretreatment
Process of SCOURING/ BLEACHING:
Machine filling with water
Chemical Dozing at 98 0
C
Run time 30 min.
H2O2 Inject
Run time at 98 0
C (90min)
Cooling at 80 0
C
Hot wash at 98 0
C (10min)
Rinse at 80 0
C
Sample Check
.
H2O2 - Killer Dozing
Run time 10 min
Acid wash 20 min
Drain
Scouring and Bleaching of 100% cotton; light and critical
shade
Recipe: for demineralization
Detergent: 0.3g/l
Antifoaming
Demineralizer-0.75g/l
Recipe: for scouring & bleaching
Anticrease
Caustic soda
H2O2

103
Detergent Acetic acid (for neutralization)
980
c 50‘ 950
c
15‘
700
c
600
c 20‘ H2O2 (4-5)‘ 650
c 750
c
400
c 15‘
600
c NaOH
400
c 600
c pc (inorganic base neutralize
Drain Inject drain drain
Injection
Detergent- 0.3g/l detergent
Antifoaming- Anticrease acid
Demineralizer-0.75g/l Antifoam (if required stabilizer)
.
The important parameters of the scouring process are as follows:
 Concentration of caustic soda
 Type and concentration of auxiliaries
 Treatment temperature
 Reaction time
A surfactant of optimal versatility to be used for preparation, and in particular for the
scouring and bleaching processes, ought to meet the following requirements:
 It should have an excellent wetting ability within a wide temperature range
 It should permit a good washing effect and have a high emulsifying power for
natural fats, waxes and oils
 It should be resistant to oxidants and reducing agents
 It should be resistant to water-hardening substances
 It should be highly stable to alkalinity
 It should be biodegradable and non-toxic
.
The important parameters for bleaching with hydrogen peroxide are as follows:
 Concentration of hydrogen peroxide
 Concentration of alkali
 pH
 Temperature
 Time
 Nature and quality of the goods
 Water hardness and other impurities
 Types and concentration of auxiliaries
 Desired bleaching effect
 Available equipment, and stabilizer system employed

104
Effect of pH on Bleaching Effectiveness, Fibre Degradation, and Peroxide
Stability in Bleaching Cotton Fibres
Initial pH Final
pH
Whiteness CUEN % Peroxide Index Fluidity
Remaining
8.0 4.4 66.8 5.48 72.5
9.0 8.7 67.3 1.44 71.6
10.1 9.9 71.3 2.44 63.3
11.0 11.7 72.2 7.29 7.0
12.0 12.4 69.5 17.8 2.0
The most common problems in bleaching cotton with hydrogen peroxide are as
follows:
 Inadequate mote removal
 Low degree of whiteness
 Uneven whiteness (or bleaching)
 Pinholes, tears, broken yarns, catalytic damage, loss in strength
 Resist marks
 Formation of oxycellulose
Cotton fabric dyeing with reactive dyes
Reactive dye:
A reactive dye, according to a useful definition by Ryes and Zollinger, is a colored
compound which has a suitable group enable of forming a covalent bond between a
carbon atom of a hydroxy, an amino or a mercapto group respectively of the substrate.
They point out that this definition excludes mordant dyes and 1: 1 chromium azo dye
complexes, which are used in dyeing protein fibers, may form covalent bonds
between metal ion and nucleophilic groups of the fiber.
Popularity of Reactive dye
Ability to produce bright shades of wide range.
High leaving of quality.
Good washing fastness.
Good light fastness.
Again its dying process is fast and gives brighter shades. For the above reasons
reactive dyes are more popular.

105
Properties of reactive dye
Reactive dyes are found in powder, liquid and print paste from.
Reactive dyes are soluble in water.
They have very good light fastness with rating about 6.
Textile materials dyed with reactive dyes have very good wash fastness with
rating about 4-5, due to strong covalent bonds formed between fiber polymer
and reactive group of dye.
Reactive dyes give brighter shades and they have moderate rubbing fastness.
Dying method of reactive dye is easy. If requires less time and low
temperature for dyeing.
Reactive dyes are comparatively very cheap. Easy to apply.
Fixation occurs in alkaline condition.
Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness with rating 4-5.
Classification of reactive dyeing on the basis of application
1. Cold brand:
This type of dyes contains reactive groups of high reactivity. So dying can be
done in lower temperature ie. 32-60c. for ex: procion m, livafix e, are cold brand dyes.
2. Medium brand:
These types of dyes contain reactive groups of moderate reactivity. So dying is
done in higher temperature than that of cold brand dyes. I.e In between 60-71c
temperatures. For ex: remazol,livafix are medium brand dyes.
3. Hot brand:
This type of dyes contains reactive groups of least reactivity. So high
temperature is required for dying i.e. 72-93c temperature is required for dying. for
ex:procion h, cibacron are hot brand dyes.

108
Process control parameter
Control points Standard
1. Joining polyester fabric in left most nozzle : must
2. Cycle time (by watch) : not above 2.5min
3. Reel speed : 200-300
4. Pump pressure : 0.6 for single/j, rib,
0.7 for fleece
5. Nozzle position : as per table
6. Scouring liquor ratio : 1: 8 – 1:10
7. Scouring white ness : as compare to lab sample
(For light color)
8. Absorbency (by drop test) : excellence
9. Residual peroxide : 0
(By peroxide strip)
10. Glauber salt PH
: 6.7-7
(Before addition)
11. Enzyme bath:
i. PH
: 4.5-5.5
ii. Temperature : 50-550
c
iii. Time : 50′
12. Dye bath PH
: 6.5- 7.0
13 spot check before addition of soda (for torques color)
14. Fixation PH
:
a. light color : 10.3-10.5
b. dirk color :10.8-11.0
c. black color :11.2-11.4
15. Sample check after 20′
16. Drop time and temperature

109
The amount of Glaubers’ salt and Soda ash on the basic shade
percentage
17. Soaping PH
: 6.5-7.0
18. Fixing bath PH
: 6.0
19. Softener PH
: 6.0-6.5
Shade % Glaubers‘ salt Soda ash
0.0010 - 0.2 20 g/l 5 g/l
0.2 - 1 40 10
1 – 2.5 60 15
2.5 - 4 70 20
4 - 8 80 20
Above 8 100 20
For some spacific color:
Name
Mixed alkali
Red ≤ 4% Navy ≤ 4% Black ≤ 4%
Glauber‘s salt (g/l) 80 80 100
Soda ash 5 5 5
Caustic soda 1 1 1

110
Washing or cleaning of new dyeing machine (for high temperature
machine)
Liquor ratio= 1:10≈ 1:12 (maximum)
Without loading fabric
Oxalic acid – 3.0g/ l (1300
×2 hr.)
Cooling up to 750
c
Drain
Loading rejected gray fabric in each nozzle
Detergent / wetting agent – 1.0g./l
Soda – 5.0g./l
100o
c × 30‘
Check by operator lid
Flow chart of Turquise Color dyeing:
Fabric load
Wet Fabric
Drain
Fill water
Detergent, Sequestering, Anticreasing, Stabilizer at 65˚c for 8 min
Caustic soda at 75˚c for 8 min (dosing)
H2O2 at 80˚c (Inject)

111
Run time at 98˚c for 90 min
Hot wash at 98˚c for 10 min
Acid at 60˚c for 20 min
PH
Check (4-4.5)
Enzyme at 60˚c for 60 min
Hot wash at 98˚c for 10 min.
Dye at 60˚c for 30 min (dosing)
Leveling at 60˚c (Inject)
Salt at 60˚c (Inject)
Soda at 60˚c for 30 min (dosing)
Hot wash at98˚c for 10 min (Color)
Fixing at 45˚c for 20 min
Hot wash at 60˚c for 10 min (Color)
Softener at 45˚c for 20 min.
LPD wash
Unload

112
Reactive dyeing process; 100% cotton, Royal and Turquoise
color
900
c (turoquish)
800
c (royal) 800
c
1.5/min
700
c
1.5
600
c
5‘ dyes 10‘ 30‘ 5‘ 5‘ Progressive (45-
60)‘for
Auxiliaries G.salt soda ash
Inject 1
/10
3
/10
6
/10
Progressive dosing
Or sectional dosing dosing
Control point
 silicon based Antifoaming must be avoid
 Before soaping PH must be below 7
 Liquor ratio- 1:10 ( dye bath )
 If dye bath final liquor ratio is 1: 10 but neutral bath 1: 8

113
Dyeing Sequence for Light Shade
M/C wash
(Hydrose, caustic soda at 98˚c for 20 min)
Detergent, Sequestering, Anticreasing, Stabilizer at 65˚c for 8 min
Caustic soda at 75˚c for 8 min (dosing)
H2O2 at 80˚c (Inject)
Run time at 98˚c for 90 min
.
Hot wash at 98˚c for 10 min
A.Acid at 60˚c for 20 min
PH
Check (4-4.5)
Hot wash at 98˚c for 10 min.
Dye at 60˚c for 30 min (dosing)
Levelling at 60˚c (Inject)
Salt at 60˚c (Inject)
Soda at 60˚c for 20 min (dosing)
Hot wash at 80˚c for 10 min (Color)
A.Acid at 65˚c for 20 min
Soaping at 85˚c for 20 min
Fixing at 45˚c for 20 min
Bath drop

114
Reactive dyeing process, 100% cotton, light and critical shade
Critical shades:
-Khaki; -olive;
-Shay;
- Light brow.
780
c 20‘ 15‘ 20‘ 20‘
Dyes G. salt
Linear dosing cooling
10‘
600
c 30-
60
0%
20‘ 20‘
400
c 1
/5 soda 4
/5soda progressive
Dosing-3 dosing-3
20% soda (1st
) 80 %( 2nd)
Auxiliaries
Control point
 Never use soda for light shade
 Use glauber salt
 Bleaching should be not above 600
c.

115
Reactive dyeing process; 100% cotton light, medium and critical
shade
900
15
25‘
780
c 15‘ 20‘ 5‘ 1.5/min
Dyes G. salt
30 60
600
c 20‘ 25‘
1
/5soda 4
/5 soda
20% dosing 80% dosing
400
c
Controlling point:
 Dosing should be always 600c
 Use Glauber salt.
 Soda for light shade.

116
Flow chart of Cotton fabric dyeing(Black)
Scouring & bleaching→98˚c temp for 45-60 min
(Wetting agent, sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, anti foaming agent, stabilizing
agent, hydrogen per oxide)
Per oxide dozing 8 min, R.T 60 min at 95˚c
Enzymes wash with acid→50˚c temp for 60min
Leveling with anti foaming & anti creasing agent at75˚c temp for10′
Salt dozing 10 min at 60C, R.T15 min
Dye dosing 15 min at 60˚c, R.T.15 min
Soda dozing 30min at 60C & R.T 45 min
Heating 65C,R.T 45 min then sample cutting
Washing off→70˚c or 95˚c temp for 15
A/acid wash→ 45˚c temp for 20 min
Softener→35˚c temp for 20 min
Unload

117
Flow chart of Cotton fabric dyeing(Black)
600
c
10‘ 35‘ 30‘ 45‘ 45-60‘
Auxiliaries dyes soda ash drop
Glauber
600
c
10‘ 35‘ 30‘ 20‘ 40‘ 30‘ 60‘
Auxiliaries linear dosing soda 5g/l caustic
drop
G. salt dyes

118
Color: lilla chiaro
Dyeing process for purple, violet, lilae or any Blue – Cl-Br- combination shade-
(45-60)‘
600
c
1.5/min
Rinse
400
c 10 10‘ 30‘ 30‘ 40‘ 5‘ and
drain
5‘ Run
Leveling salt Dyes Run Soda
PH
- 6.5
Machine wash or machine cleaning
 Existing color in machine – next color will be in machine
- wash
 Dark shade (Navy, Black, Red, Burgundy) –
light shade (Ecru, Light Blue, Light Pink,
Pale)
Wash with –
A. 0.7g/l Hydrose
B.75 g/l caustic
C. 1100
c ×20
Same color – same color – no need wash
Remarks:

119
a. Gray fabric can be loaded.
b. Without any problem but color.
c. Fabric, shade fabric should be loaded by neutralization.
N.B. After competition of machine wash makes sure that cleaning is done correctly
this should be done by opening lid.
Washing off process, 100% cotton all colors:
Soaping
950
c
800
c
15‘
 for dr. color two times soaping
400
c Neutralization two times soaping rinse
* For light color without soaping
15‘
5‘ 5‘
Drain rise drain rinse drain Acetic acid 1.0g/l (d.k color) Drain
Drain
0.7 g/l (light color)

120
Viscose pretreatment and dyeing carve
Detergent (MD-2) - 0.75g/l
Anticrease (rex) – 0.70g/l 600
c×45‘
Alp- clean – 3.0g/l
Normal washes – 2 times
Hot wash at 600c ×10‘
Platition – 0.8g/l
H2O2 killer – 0.3g/l
Hot wash at 600c ×10‘
600
C 40‘
5‘ 25‘ 5‘ 25‘
1
/3 soda 2
/3 soda
Salt 1.50
/min
Dyes
400
c
30‘ 10‘ 30‘ 10‘
B/D
1
/3+2
/3
Antifoam
Sequestering
Leveling

121
FOR KELLY GREEN
M: L = 1: 12
Leveling agent – 2.0g/l
Sequester – 1.0g/l
Anticreasing- 0.5g/l
900
c
25‘
Soda
Dyes salt 1.50
c/min 1.50
c/m
800
C
800
c 30‘ 10‘ 30‘ 45‘
60‘
1/3+2/3
Leveling 15‘+30‘
B/D

122
Flow chart of White fabric dyeing:
Fabric load in m/c
Wet the Fabric
Drain
.
Fill water
Acid
Ph check-(4-4.5)
Enzyme hot at 90˚c for 10 min
Scouring & bleaching at 98˚c for 90 min
Syno color at 60˚c for 30 min (dosing)
.
Runtime time at 98˚c for 20 min
Sample check-
Color out
Color hot wash at 80˚c for 10 min
Softener at 45˚c for 20 min
Rinsing
Unload

123
Process Flow Chart of Polyester Dyeing
Fabric load
Water fill
Auxiliary chemical add
Temp. Raise
Run the m/c 600
c at 15min
Adjusted PH
with A. acid
Color dosing for 10 min at 600
c
Temp. Raise 1350
c
Run the m/c 45 -60 min
Cold down700
c
Shade check
Rains /Drain
Ok
Hot wash
Rains /Drain
Reduction cleared with hydrose caustic
Soaping
Neutralizing
Hot wash
Cold wash

124
Re- dyeing
When shade is not matched then fabric is treated again in dyeing m/c for shade
matching is known as re- dyeing.
Generally re-dyeing is done if the shade is deeper/lighter than the target shade.
It may occur when the fabrics absorbed one or two colors more or less.
One re-dyeing process is described below:
Drain the let off solution.
Transper acid and detergent
Hot wash at 900
c for 5 min and frain
Eater is frained and re-filling (based on fabric)
Dosing caustic hydrose within 10 min
Wash at 1030
c for 40 min
Cooling at 600
c
Then drain and filling new water
Half scouring is done
Added peroxide killer to neutralization
Remaining PH(4.9) leveling is added
Then other operations are same as previous described dyeing operations.

125
Process Flow Chart of SOAPING:
Machine filling with water
Heating at 60 0
C
Acetic acid dosing
Run time 6 min.
Heating at 95 0
C
Chemicals dozing
Run time 12 min.
Cooling at 70 0
C
Rinse
Drain
PH
Check

126
Full stripping
The removal of dying shade of desired amount is called stripping.
It becomes necessary when uneven dyeing occurs.
It is two types:
1. Partial stripping:
Partial stripping is obtained by treating the dyed fabric with dilute
acetic acid or formic acid. Here temperature is raised to 70-100c and
treatment is continued until shade is removed by desired amount. After
that a through washing is necessary.
2. Full stripping:
For complete the goods are first treated with sodium hydrosulphite
(hydrose) at boil then washed off and bleached 1% sodium hypochlorite
(NaOCI) at room temperature. This is carried out for 30 minutes.
Reductive stripping without hydro-sulphite
950
c (30-40)‘
Alternative of 780
c
800
c hydrosulphite
5‘
600
c meclear12
1-2g/l
Drain
NaoH exolube Nc
3-5g/l MC 1.0g/l
Hot wash: 900
c× 10‘
Hot wash: 900
c× 10‘
Neutralize acetic acid = 1-2g/l to make PH= 7
N.B:
1. Never use H2O2 after above treatment.
2. be careful about neutralization.

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