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Edinburgh
Queen Street                                                                             York Place




                                          Frederick St
                     Castle Street




                                                                        Hanover Street
Charlotte SQ                                                                                                   St.Andrew SQ

                                     George Street

                                     Rose Street


                                     Princes Street




                                                                                                                                    North Bridge
                                                                                         Scott´s
                                                                                         Monument

                                                         Lothian Road
                                                                                          Carnival



          Edinburgh Castle




                                                                                                                                      Sotuh Bridge
                                                                                                               Royal Mile
                                                                                            George IV Bridge

                      Johnston TCE




                     Grassmarket
                                                                                                               Cowgate


                       Edinburgh
                       City Centre

 CONTENT
Itineraries                                                                                                                    1

 „We´re are having a barrie time“                                                                                             10
 Eating and Whisky and more

 „What´s on tonite?“                                                                                                          20
 clubs and cinema and more

 History and Culture                                                                                                           26
 galleries and tartan and more
Edinburgh is the most desirable city to live in the
UK. At least, according to a 2009 YouGov poll.
Edinburgh came out top for its atmosphere and
positive reputation.
We, the authors of this guide, can approve these
results.
“Auld Reekie” is indeed a wonderful place to visit.
There’s the Castle, the Scott Monument, Arthur’s
Seat ... yes, we talk about them, too. But beyond
those mainstream sights we leave the trampled
tourist paths and try to create an alternative gui-
de to Scotland’s capital.

If you only have one or two days to stay our
itineraries will help you spend them efficiently.
Edinburgh is a rather pricy town, in general. But
the are spots which offer cheap food, clothing or
other items. Your wallet will thank you for taking
our advice. Then, of course, there’s the whisky.
You can’t leave Scotland without having tasted the
best brands. Luckily, we have sorted out the the
bad ones, so that you don’t have to.

Finally, you’ll encounter people, attractions and
stories you won’t find in any other tourist gui-
de. For Edinburgh in all its grandeur is yet to be
discovered.

            your City Travel Review Team
In the following (text) we would like to suggest you three
totally different options how to spend your days in char-
ming Edinburgh in the most efficient, yet affordable way.

It is up to you to choose between: a very touristy and
therefore historic, massive and impressive day – a rather
alternative, picturesque and unique day or a pretty artis-
tic, educating and entertaining day. However, in the end
it needs to be said that – as different as they might seem
– each day in some way includes all the above mentioned
adjectives.
                                                             Itineraries
In Scotland´s varied
and inspiring Capital –
Edinburgh - creativity
and individuality is
written in rather big
letters. Maybe that is
why became known
 for famous writers
 (like Sir Walter Scott
and Robert Louis
Stevenson), artists,
philosophers (like David
Hume), scientists and
economics (like Adam
Smith).

Exploring Edinburgh´s
Old and New Town
includes a lot of walking.
But thanks to closes, wynds and significant
historic buildings a walk is not just a walk –
it is rather an experience and discovery. You
soon feel at home and protected in this friendly
and curious area. However, public transportation
is more than unnecessary to discover this place,
which seems to be neither a town nor a city –
but this exactly is what creates Edinburgh´s
unique character. Although it kept its small,
familiar flair and although this is the place
where all the traditional, tiny specialized shops
and their chatty salesperson still exist, it offers
everything a human´s city heart might desire as
well.

It is now your time to be an explorer and to
discover Edinburgh on your own, inspired by
our itineraries.
                              Have fun!

                                                                     1
Tour
                          is     ty Iti
                                         nera
                                                  ry


                                    d as a World
    A visit to Edinburgh – inscribe
                                  1995 – would
    Heritage Site by UNESCO in
                                  not actively visi-
    not be complete if you have
                                    d the treasure
    ted, experienced and absorbe
                                   all your senses
    – chest of historic gems with
                                    Royal Mile.
    that are at your disposal: the
                                   a of Edinburgh.
    The most typical touristy are

                                       to provide you
        Yes – although we would like
                                        anti-touristy
        with the most alternative and
                                      s to offer, we
        tips and places Edinburgh ha
                                         the chance to
        also feel the need to offer you
                                          ic Old Town,
        experience Edinburgh´s histor
                                      touristy attrac-
        and with it its indispensable
        tions.
                                              of the fact
               You might want to be aware
                                                 l notice
               that today surely everyone wil
                                               is no shame
               that you are a tourist, which
                                               t most of the
               at all. Not that surprising tha
                                              on your route
               people you are going to see
                                                 re is no
               today are tourists, too. So the
                                                    day to
                  need to hide – today is YOUR
                                                      day to
                   free the tourist in you – YOUR
                                                      er the
                      explore one souvenirshop aft
                                                     ingly
                     other and YOUR day to stunn
                      stop and stare with your head
                                                s impressive
                t thrown back so to see thi
                      building in front of you.
2
To start this extraordinary day you climb up the four floors of the Scott´s
Monument, which is situated in the heart of Princes Street. Hopefully it
is a sunny day so that you have a clear overallview of Edinburgh in its full
pride – the Monument´s four different viewpoints serve you with exclusive
and accurate windy views to the North Sea, up Princes Street, down Princes
Street with Carlton Hill & the Balmoral Hotel´s Big Ben – like clock in the
background, and of course an excellent view of the Old Town and its Castle.
Due to the fact that there are two other excellent viewpoints like Carlton
Hill and Arthur´s Seat – which are, by the way, for free – you might not
want to spend £3 on Scott´s Monument. Nevertheless it is higly recommen-
ded, unless you are either afraid of heights, fat or claustrophobic. However,
if you like cosy, dark spiral stair cases that lead you up the way – and force
you to squeeze yourself past the descending strangers – it is worth the
unique view.
              After getting
                               the first impr
              the Royal M                        ession of th
                              ile – approx                       e day from
             one and on                       imately a m                       above you ne
                            ly pedestrian                      ile long, part                     ed to head
             tartans, scot                     zone in Edin                     ly still pretty                  to
                             tish scarves,                       burgh. For                       royal and th
             used by tour                      Kilts, Shortbr                   those of yo                       e
                             ist as souven                        ead or othe                  u who are in
            paradise - in                      irs for the lo                    r Scottish sp                  to
                            cluding high                         ved ones w                        ecialities -
            buy ordinary                     class cashm                        ho stayed at
                             touristy thin                    ere shops as                       home: this
            For the rest                     gs.                                well as afford                  is
                            of you it mig                                                        able shops to
           guess abou                        ht be satisfyi
                          t the other´                         ng enough
           tourist. Ther                  s supply an                          to go in one
                           efore you pa                   d move on                             of the stores
          front of the                      ss the Hea                    to fulfill thei                       ,
                          Church and                         rt of Midlo                  r task as a
                                          spit right in                      thian to yo               proper
          the only plac                                    the middle of                     ur left, righ
   Afterw                  e in Scotlan                                       it. Indeed, th               t in
           a                              d where you
  donke rds the ne                                           are asked to
                                                                               spit in public
                                                                                               is probably
                                                                                                              is
         y ridin          xt att                                                               .
  but u           g a ho         ractio
        nfortu            rse –         n wait
 in the         nately           actua           s
         p               th             lly this just aroun
inbetw ast so tha ere were                         is the         dt
        een lo         t it no         m                   statue he corner
                 ts of p        w loo ade some                      of an          –a
                                      ks a b             a
                         arking
                                  spots         it disp rchitectica admiral,
                                        .               laced           l mist
                                                                 and is         akes
                                                                         banis
                                                                                hed
                                                                                                            3
As you are already next to the Church it is worth paying attention to
   it and to go in for a few minutes and – hopefully on a sunny day – to
   watch the reflections of the imressive stained glass windows.
   However, the most important information about the Royal Mile is that
   it connects the Edinburgh Castle in the North with the Holyrood Pa-
   lace and the new, controversial Scotish Parliament in the South.
   Surely, there are some people who like to see the castle from inside
   – who like to see the room where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to
   her son James, the future King of Scotland and England – who like to
   see the Stone of Destiny as well as the Scottish Crown Jewels, called
   the Honours of Scotland,. Nevertheless this takes about 2 hours, so
   that probably some of you are satisfied with a picture of each on a
   flyer and spend their time in a maybe more fun and exciting place –
   the Camera Obscura right below the Castle.
  As the touristy
                     day moves on
 Unsurprisingly,                      you will surely
                   the Royal Mile                       feel the need
 dinner and of                      offers you a w                      to get somethi
                 course beer or                     ide variety of pl                  ng to eat.
 and less known                    whisky. So ther                    aces to have lu
                    as well as smal                  e are lots of tr                 nch, coffee,
 cused coffee sh                     ler sandwich sh                 aditional pubs,
                   ops, which offe                    ops offering go                inexpensive
Starbucks and                       r you soups-of                     od food, young-
                  Subway. All in                    -the-day, as w                     people fo-
lunchbreak. Ho                     all you indeed                   ell as maintream
                 wever, as we ar                   have more than                      shops like
Scottish Haggi                     e on our tourist                    one option to
                 s with Neeps an                     ic route its appr               spend your
cal, is having fa                   d Tatties in one                   opriate to have
                  st food á la Sc                     of the local pu                  a propper
                                  otland: deep fri                    bs. Cheaper, bu
                                                   ed Fish&Chips.                     t still typi-


  After having lunch it is time to take a walk to the graveyard. “Why go to a graveyard?“, you might
         wonder. But this is not just any graveyard. It is THE graveyard. The graveyard where you can
          find the most haunted Mausoleum in Edinburgh and even more important: the graveyard
           including Greyfriar Bobby´s Grave! The grave itself is worshipped with a few pale-coloured
               plastic flowers and rain-soaked cuddle toys. You might not have heard of “Bobby, the
                Terrier“ who, after the death of his owner, used to come to his grave for the rest of his
                  live, 14 years, to still take care of him. Just around the corner Edinburgh dedicated
                      Bobby a statue, which now ist the most photographed statue in Edinburgh – so
                     feel free to unpack you camera and take the 100.000th Bobby-picture to update
                       your photogallery.
   4
Regardless of any age, you surely have heard of J.K.Rowling, the author of “Harry
    Potter“. If you go down Southbridge it is hard to miss the red building to your left,
    called: “The Elephant House“, which is the place where Rowling got inspired to write
    her stories about young Wizards attending school in an old, mysterious Castle called
    Hogwarts. That is why this Café is also called “The birthplace of Harry Potter“.
    Hopefully this sounds interesting enough to you to go in. You might wonder why ele-
    phants inspired today´s second richest woman in Scotland (on a list right below the
    Queen) to write such an anti-elephanitc story. That is because it was not the cafe´s –
    still present - elephants that inspired her, but the unique, undisturbed and incredible
    viewpoint of the Castle, situated on the remnants of a volcano formed 340 milllion
    years ago. This looks impressively dangerous but still secure, with the graveyard in
    front of it – leading the observers view up the hill.
                                  After this impressive break it is hard to be surprised by anythin
                 t of the picturesque. Neverth                                                               g more
Stepping ou               you                              eless you should give it a try and therefore visit the
Gallery´s      building          “National Gallery of Scotland“, which is on Princes Street
                    fall out Scott´s Monument. Depending on how                                          – near the
will literaryly                                                                  interested you are in Scotland´s
                    erman“ pretigious national collection, including European art from
into the “G                                                                                           the 16th until
                    market, 19th centuries and early Italian and Dutch paintings up to 1530, this
 Christmas
                   mes you tour takes from half an hour to 2 hours. If your feet already hurt and
 which welco
                     warming you feel the need to sit down you can also use the IT-Gallery and ex-
 with a hot,                     plore the collections using a new, modern and innovative
 Glühwein,      Crepes, cho- computer.                                                                touch-screen
             laced      ap  ples
  colate-g
                    balls and         The chances of taking your tourist tour on a Tuesday are approximately 1 to
  or marzipan                         7. If it is a Tuesday, you should end the day with a Ceileidh Dance Course
  grilled pota    toes – just         at Grass Market, accompanied by live Folkmusic (including a Fiddle, Drums
                    christm   as
   as a good               ee to
                                      and surely an Accordeon) This is an introduction into the Scottish Folkdance,

   shou   ld do. Feel fr              mostly attended by groups, couples, friends, singles and above all tourists as
                     ild in you       well as locals. Especially if you forgot to bring a partner along with you, the
   satisfy the ch              of     old, renovated church crowded with people of the average age of 23 might -
                    on one
   with a ride             Mary-
                                      in the beginning - rather evokes the impression of a “SingleMarket or Speed
                      the
    the horses of
                                      dating“. However, there are lots of group dances that get even the stiffest and
                        nquer         most moody person to laugh, dance, clap their hands, be happy and forget
    G o-Round or co                   all their doubts of dancing in front of strangers – because actually you dance
                    your fear         with them. Moreover it is not the normal, traditional standard dance or disco
                      -of- hights     dance which you might imagine, it is much more a running, interaction and
                         in a         circling each other around, with the purpose to shout out loud full of happi-
                           ride       ness and to have a jolly-good time. And beyond any doubt: it is hardly that
                                      easy to laugh and have a good time with a lot of open-minded people in a
                        in th e
                                      good mood. And if you still not feel the need to dance – you can also just sit
                          Ferris      down, have a beer, watch from the first floor and reflect the day. GT
                          wheel.                                                                              5
Alternative Itinerary
                        This is the day to enjoy breathtaking views and to
                        walk the hidden path in order to explore unique
                        places.
    Start your day with a typical Scottish breakfast which
    usualy includes toast, an egg, sausage, beans and black
    pudding (just so that it is not mistaken with tasty chocola-
    te pudding - better described as: blood-sausage). Mostly
    it is called (among tourists): Hangover-Breakfast. The
    fact that the Scotsman likes to eat this kind of breakfast
    quite often, leaves no doubt why Scotland is the the num-
    ber one on the list of the country with the highest rate of
    heart-attacks.

    A pretty good place to have breakfast would be „The Mit-
    re“, which is a huge pub on Royal Mile, where breakfast
    starts at £4,50. But there are several other places to get
    traditional breakfast on the Royal Mile as well, such as
    „The Crag and Tail“. This is a more modern, plain styled
    restaurant where breakfast starts at £5,95.

             After having such a filling breakfast it is a good idea to
             go for a nice walk, which leads you down Royal Mile,
             along the new Scottish Parliament, established in
             2001, and the Holyrood Palace, opposite to it. Your
             walk takes you further to Arthur´s Seat – the hill
             which is so close to town but whose nature still preser-
             ves such a lovely, mystical and magical atmosphere as
             if wandering around the Hobbit´s Landscape.
             The further you go the longer, steeper and more ex-
             hausting gets the hill – but keeping in mind the reward
             of the view you are going to get it is absolutely worth
             the effort.
             After this succesful hike you are allowed to proudly
             rest on top of Arthur´s Seat and to take a few or ma-
             ybe a lot of pictures.




6
As usually going down a hill is much easier and faster,
you soon arrive at the end of Royal Mile again. Do you
have the flavour of warm, creamy and homemade
soup, tasty like your mother used to cook it for you, in
mind? This means it is time to head to delightful “Hula“
at Grassmarket. In a warm, orange-toned atmosphere
they welcome you with warming, homemade food such
as bagels or soups. For the ones who instead feel the
need to be spoilt with a hot chocolate or a strong whis-
key, the Grassmarket offers a variety of inexpensive,
cosy pubs.




                   You might have already noticed that Grassmarket
                   looks a bit different compared to all the other places
                   Edinburgh offered you so far. Congratulations! You just
                   discovered one of Scotland´s most exciting and unique
                   area. Surrounded by Victoria Street (once Edinburgh´s
                   most illegal area), Cowgate and Candlemaker Row and
                   its well preserved architecture from 1700, this area
                   leaves you stunned by an occasionally creepy, weird
                   and alternative selection of shops. Here, in he heart
                   of the Old Town, vintage shops (like Armstrong, having
                   celebrity fans like Kaiser Chiefs and Franz Ferdinand)
                   are nestled next to joke shops, exclusive Scottish de-
                   sign shops, gothic and corset as well as hat specialists,
                   trendy shops as well as old-fashioned or science fiction
                   oriented book stores and comic stores.




                                                                      7
To move on with this impressive day, a visit to the Dean
Gallery or the Gallery of Modern Art right next to it
would be appropriate. Despite the Galleries themselves,
which are on Belford Road, the walk to get there is pretty
amazing, too. First of all you get a pretty good impression
of Edinburgh´s less touristy area and maybe get inspired
by some cafés or pubs you pass. Secondly, walking along
feels like being one of the students you pass on your way
– going home to your cosy apartment on the third floor
with its beautiful view of the park right behind the house.
Why not fantasise how the flat right below the roof of the
house with these many, lovely chimneys looks like. How
would it be to live in there?




           It is now time to lay back entirely relaxed and carefree
           while nipping on a warming cup of hot chocolate.
           Urbanangel Café offers everyone his own private space-
           whether you want to read, chat or just have a second on
           your own to feel like an angel - in a modern, clean and
           sober, yet lovely heartwarming atmosphere. Not to forget,
           that this is the place to get the best chocolate brownies in
           town.




        To end this day you could attend a pubquiz, which is pretty
        famous among the local people and is usually held by dif-
        ferent pubs on a fixed day of the week. On Monday´s for
        instance “The Bailies“ is full of young, curious locals who
        hope to be able to answer the quizmaster´s questions on
        anything - from celebrities to politics and geography, while
        enjoying good company and a few beers. Surely you some-
        times just have to guess the answer, therefore you can get
        extrapoints for extraordinarily funny answers. Feel free so
        shout and cheer like a real Scotsman!                  GT
ra  ry
                      I tine
              ar ty
      sh ort-
The



 Art Galleries
 in the Dundas Street
                                                 Mc Naughton´s
 Start your day with several                            Book Shop
 small and different art coll-                   on Leith Walk
 ections, all side by side.
                                                 Find some old beautiful
                                                 books here - for 2nd Hand
                                                        prices!




                                                   Filmhouse
           Calton Hill
          Enjoy the view and relax.                on Lothian Road

                                                 Go for a film in this unique
                                                 independent cinema.




                            The Bowery
                            on Roxborrow Place

                           Listen to live music and
                          have a beer in the evening.
PUB

           „We´re having
           a barrie time!“


10
Eating and drinking in
                      the land of the brave
Scotland’s cuisine is not really known as a gourmet’s cuisine. Due to limited sun-
shine and a lot of wind and rain during the year there is not a wide range of native
products growing naturally in Scotland. Root crops such as carrots or potatoes are
plentiful whereas fruits and other types of vegetables are largely imported from
countries with a warmer climate. After having spent three weeks in Scotland just
eating traditional food you may put on some weight. Nevertheless, some Scottish
food is better than its reputation.


   What Scotsmen eat for breakfast
   Scots don’t shirk breakfast. Traditional breakfast includes, of course, por-
   ridge. This mixture of oats and water can be delicious if you are a fan of
   gruel. In fact, porridge was the main diet for generations of Scots in former
   times. Traditionalists of the older generation swear that the only way to eat
   it is just with water and a dash of salt. Nowadays, it is mostly mixed with
   cream, fruit, butter or even whisky to give it a hint of the exotic. People visit-
   ing Scotland for the first time are generally amazed by cooked breakfast but
   it is not popular with everyone.
   If you enjoy a traditional breakfast you have to make your way through the
   mixture of egg, sausage, bacon, chips, toast, mushrooms, baked beans and
   black pudding. In contrast to this, if you are into common continental break-
   fast you will also find this anywhere.


               What to eat for a quick lunch
               After having a rich breakfast you may not feel
               like having lunch. Nevertheless, if you are in
               the mood of eating further there are a lot of
               nice pubs and restaurants to pop in. Lunch
               tends to be taken quickly or on the hop. For
               lunch people mainly have a snack like a soup,
               a pie or a sandwich.



                                          Going out for dinner
                                          Being surrounded by so many deep oceans, fish
                                          still make up an important part of the Scottish
                                          food. In Scotland they have a variety of excellent
                                          native fish, such as smoked salmon, herring and
                                          haddock. Venison and deer are popular with gour-
                                          mets too. Available all year, venison has a strong,
                                          distinctive taste. There is plenty of wild game to
                                          choose from, such as rabbit, duck, partridge or
                                          pigeon. People focus much more on dinner than on
                                          lunch as dinner is the actual main meal of the day.
                                                                                                11
Fish and chips:
     Fish and chips is a popular take-away food
     in Scotland therefore you definitely have
     to try it once. It consists of deep-fried fish
     (traditionally cod, haddock or flounder)
     in batter or bread crumbs with deep-fried
     chipped potatoes.



                                                      Scottish dessert:
                                                      It seems that Scottish people have a sweet
                                                      tooth because there are a lot of delicious but
                                                      extremely sweet desserts. The most famous
                                                      one is probably fudge, a small toffee bar si-
                                                      milar to caramel, mainly made of sugar and
                                                      butter. After a visit in the Fudge House you get
                                                      a sugar shock for sure! If you are into sweet
                                                      staff you will be satisfied with having some
                                                      cheesecake, Dundee cake, shortbread or dou-
                                                      ghnut... there is enough for everyone.




                                                         If you visit Edinburgh try
 Pies:                                                   these typical Scottish dishes:
 Pies are simply pieces of meat in gravy encased
 with crusty pastry. These pies are filled with
 minced meat and onions. Often, the meat is
 replaced by innards. According to the traditi-
 on mutton meat is used but nowadays beef is              Haggis with tatties and neeps:
 more commonly used. There are different types            Haggis is Scotland’s national dish. It even
 of pies, such as fish pie, chicken pie, mince pie        comes up first in people’s minds when
 or steak pie.                                            they think about Scotland. In the distant
                                                          past when times were hard, haggis was a
                                                          creative way of using up what is left over.
                                                          It is offal with oats, spices, and pepper.
                                                          Ingredients are stuffed into a sheep’s sto-
                                                          mach to be baked and served up with tat-
                                                          ties and neeps. Despite the fact that this
                                                          all sounds awful, haggis is surprisingly
                                                          tasty. As Scottish people more and more
                                                          have become vegetarians they have in-
                                                          vented vegetarian Haggis. It is a popular
                                                          alternative to the old blood and guts way.




12
After strolling around Edinburgh in search of nice places to
  appease one’s appetite or hunger here are some sugges-
  tions of locations to go to:

Crag and Tail (Restaurant)                    Gourmet Burger Kitchen (Restaurant)
503 Lawnmarket, Royal Mile,                   137 George Street EH2 4JY
Edinburgh, EH1 2PH                            British and Irish franchise but tasty burgers at
Small but modern, friendly internati-         reasonable prices, huge portions, also offers
onal staff, offer typical Scottish food,      exotic burgers (e.g. Avocado burger, Jamaican
good place to enjoy rich Scottish             burger), contemporary interior design, lounge
                                              music, nice alternative to pubs and touristy
breakfast but also a place to be in the
                                              places for business people as well as students.
evenings.


Wannaburger (Restaurant)                      Susie’s Wholefood Diner (Vegetari-
217 High Street                               an restaurant)
Edinburgh, EH1 1PE                            51 West Nicolson Street, Newington
At first glance it seems to be a mainstream   Edinburgh EH8 9DB
fast food restaurant but it is probably one   Specialises in organic vegetarian meals,
of the best places to enjoy a big delicious   relaxed atmosphere, chilled out staff,
burger in Edinburgh, very friendly staff,
                                              students’ area, ideal for low budget.
easy-going and young atmosphere.

Halfway House (Pub)                           Black Medicine Coffee Co.
24 Fleshmarket Close,                         2 Nicolson Street Edinburgh, EH8 8DH
Edinburgh, EH1 1BX                            Cosy and casual atmosphere, non conventi-
The smallest pub in Edinburgh, winner         onal place, meeting point for young people
of the award for pub of the year 2009,        and students, friendly staff, independent pri-
                                              vate run coffee shop, wide range of teas and
hidden in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old
                                              fresh smoothies, broad range of food ranging
Town, tiny but warmly welcoming you,          from chocolate fudge cake and cookies to cia-
they specialise in ales/beers.                batta melts and soups.

Jekyll & Hide Pub (Pub)                       L’alba D’oro (Fish’n’chips)
112 Hanover Street                            5-7 Henderson Row, New Town
Edinburgh, Midlothian EH2 1DR                 Edinburgh, EH3 5DH
A bit dark but pretty individual place,
toilets are hidden behind a bookcase,         Probably best chippy in Edinburgh,
unique character, chatty and delight-         take-away and delivery.
ful staff, regular comedy nights.




                                                                                           13
The Underground Café (coffee)            The Kenilworth (Pub)
     34 Elder Street                          152-154 Rose Street
     Edinburgh, EH1 3DX                       Edinburgh, EH2 3JD, United Kingdom
                                              Welcoming atmosphere, cosy seats,
     Small venue but cosy and friendly place, friendly staff, huge portions,
     ideal for having a chat and get some     delicious meals, also reasonably priced
     coffee, tea or snack.                    typical Scottish breakfast.



     Biddy Mulligans (Pub)                                     Royal Mile Tavern (Pub)
     96 Grassmarket Edinburgh, EH1 2JR                         127 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1SG
     Old-fashioned style, very rustic and                      Discounts for backpackers who are
     Scottish, ideal for typical Pub feeling                   staying in a hostel, lovely staff, friendly
     when enjoying a beer. Delicious and                       warmly welcoming atmosphere, young
     reasonably priced meals for lunch, e.g.                   people’s meeting point, live music play-
     soup with bread, a place where you find                   ing current rock songs, nice place for
     locals                                                    drinking a beer with a good friend


     Bannerman’s (Pub)                                         The Canny Man (Pub)
     212 Cowgate/Niddry Street Edinburgh,                      237 Morning Side Road
     EH1 1NQ                                                   EH10 4 QU
     Historic pub, a bit hidden below South Bridge, mee-       Outside the city centre but worth going there,
     ting point for students and backpackers, sometimes        alternative style, individual pub full of nooks,
     crowded but very lively, live new alternative music       staffed with antique and junk, pub with the
     (Folk, Rock, Indie, Punk, Metal), Karaoke, student        widest range of whiskies in the city, famous
     discounts, not a place to go for just a quiet drink, it
                                                               for delicious food, if they don’t want you to
     is a place to get drunk and get to know new people.
                                                               enter you won’t enter.

                                                                                                          UR




14
Well, if you are hungry right now after reading all this staff about food and
meals in Scotland there is just one thing to be recommended to you: have a
look at the following table as it might help you to find your way through the
Scottish gourmet jungle:
angus beef         Gourmet beef from Scottish Angus cow

banger and mash sausage with mashed potatoes
bashed neeps       mashed beetroot/turnip
black pudding      blood sausage
cock-a-leekie      chicken soup with leek
cullen skink       fish soup with smoked fish
haggis             sheep stomach filled with sheep’s innards, oat and onions
ham & haddy        smoked haddock topped with ham and cheese
hugga-muggie       fish-haggis served in fish stomach
kipper             hot smoked bloater/red herring
mince              minced meat with onions and gravy
scotch broth       vegetable soup with grain from pearl barley
stovies            purée from potatoes and onions
white pudding      fried or roasted white sausage, sometimes for vegetarians
bannock            flat oat bread either sweet or spicy
black bun          traditional fruit cake for Hogmanay (= New Year’s Eve)
clootie dumpling   typical Christmas cake with raisins and cinnamon
fudge              soft butter toffee
scone              little sweet cake made of flour and butter
(cheese) oatcake   cookie made of oat (with cheese)
shortbread         biscuits made of short pastry with a lot of butter; butter coo-
                   kies
chippy             fish and chips
porridge           boiled oats with water/milk
turnips            type of vegetable, a root
dundee cake        extremely sweet and heavy cake
gaelic coffee      Irish coffee with scotch whisky
hotch potch        soup with lamb and vegetables
neeps              beetroot/turnip
pie                filled pâté
venison            meat from deer
tatties            potatoes
toddy              whisky with hot water and sugar (when someone’s got a cold)
                                                                                     15
Let´s have a dram!
     You have never drunk whisky? What
     would be a visit to Scotland without ha-
     ving tasted a nice glass of whisky?
     Well, you probably know Jack Daniel’s mixed           In order to add a subtle nuance, quality
     with Coke, but guys, this is not what we are          Scotch whiskies are often aged in used
     talking about here! True whisky is produ-             casks from Bourbon production. Scotch
     ced where men wear kilts, where cows are              whiskies are divided into five main regions
     hairy and sheep’s innards are considered a            namely Highland, Lowland, Islay, Speyside
     country’s favourite meal.                             (Tip: visit Dufftown!) and Campbeltown. The
     No other beverage is so intimately connec-            natural water in each region contributes to
     ted to the spirit of a nation. The word for           the taste of a whisky.
     whisky itself has its root in the old Gaelic t        Whisky has established itself as an affordable
     erm for water, uisge. Uisge beatha means              luxury with a trend for drinking less but bet-
     the water of life in Gaelic. Outside Scotland         ter. Scotland continues to set the pace when
     you order a glass of whisky… but if you want          it comes to wonderful whisky. Industry figu-
     to do this in a Scottish way then you order           res prove that shipments of whisky abroad
     a dram!                                               are up despite economic recession. Scotsmen
     Whisky is a delicious but strong alcoholic be-        can proudly present their Scotch whisky ex-
     verage distilled from fermented grain mash.           port quota which already represents 20% of
     Different grains are used for different vari-         Scotland’s manufactured exports. One of the
     eties, including barley, malted barley, rye,          great joys when it comes to whisky is disco-
     malted rye, wheat and maize. While the                vering an unfamiliar distillery and finding it
     market is dominated by blends, the most               produces wonderful single malts. If you do
     highly prized of Scotch whiskies are the              not have the opportunity to do so just take
     single malts which are made of one type of            a look at the list below with suggestions of
     grain. Whiskies mature in wooden casks                what types of whisky one could start with on
     which are generally made of oak.                      a whisky experience.


     Here are some affordable Scottish Single Malt whiskies that can be recommended. They are
     mainly light and delicate ones, therefore also suitable for the Ladies ;)

          Name          Age                                  Taste                                   Produc-
                                                                                                     tion
      Aberlour          10     very soft, dry, fresh and fruity aroma from apples and pears,         Speyside
                               sweet toffee note, hint of marzipan (honey and nuts), smooth
                               and creamy finishing
      Dalwhinnie        15     Aromatic nose with hints of peat, sweet, hint of honey and            Highland
                               vanilla, with a bit citrus fruit flavour, long intense finish which
                               starts sweet but gets to peat and malt
      Glenfarclas       10     fruity, hints of dried fruit, cinnamon and vanilla, a wee oily,       Speyside
                               smokiness combined with sherry sweetness, long smooth and
                               spicy finish
      Glenlivet         12     Aromatic, flowery, clean and simple though some spice, notes          Speyside
                               of vanilla, slightly sweet, long but mild and warming finish
      Macallan          15     matured in sherry and bourbon oak, smooth and light, the              Speyside
      Fine Oak                 aroma has a hint of rose and cinnamon, the finishing tastes
                               like chocolate with hints of orange and raisins, lingering

     Some other very delicious and aromatic ones that you should try are, for instance, Mortlach, Macallan,
     Glenfiddich, Edradour and Balvenie... well, the reason why the whiskies mentioned above are mainly
     from the Speyside or the Highlands is simply because Scots say the magic that makes their whiskies
     better than anyone else’s is in the water from their Highland rivers!
16
If you want to immerse yourself into the delicate world of whisky, you
should consider some things in order to enjoy the full cheer and not
to make a fool of yourself. Just follow some easy instructions and you
will learn how to become a whisky expert ;)


Lesson 1
How to prepare for a whisky tasting:

a) The smaller the glass the better
b) Use water to mix with the whisky or
drink between the whiskies.
This will enrich the taste, or bouquet as
the professionals call it.
c) Concentrate on smell (nose), palate
(taste) and finish (after-taste) and finally
overall impression
d) If you want to eat something with it
have some crackers or oat-
cakes
Lesson 2
How to taste a whisky:

a) Swill the whisky around in the glass (but take care you do not
spill it!)
b) Put the glass just below your nose, smell it (but don’t take a
breath too deep!) and describe what you smell – Is it fruit, vanilla,
caramel? Is it fishy or smoky?
c) Taste a wee bit and let it rest some seconds in your mouth. It
can be soft or sharp, spicy or nutty, fruity or smoky.
d) Finally swallow it. It can have a long or short aftertaste, gentle
and fruity or sharp and spicy.                            UR+PO




                                                                         17
                                                  Edradour Whiskey Distillery
The widest range of whiskies to buy can probably be found at Peckhams
     (Peckham & Rye, 155-159 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh, EH10 4DG, Uni-
     ted Kingdom, +44 131 228 2888) or in one of those specialised whisky
     retailers in the city of Edinburgh. So just pop in one of the following:

                                  Cadenhead                  Royal Mile
     The Whisky Shop
                                 Whisky Shop                 Whiskies
     28 Victoria Street
                               172 Canongate            379 High Street
     Edinburgh
                               Edinburgh                Edinburgh EH1
     EH1 2JW
                               EH8 8DF                  1PW
     +44 (0)131 225
                               +44 (0)131 556           +44 (0) 131 225
     4666
                               5864                     3383
18
The Forest
  My old wooden table is decorated with a beer
  bottle which serves as a vase for a yellow
  rose.While using the free WiFi I observe this
  girl sitting near me. She is getting a red cat
  out of her huge bag and starts to put colour-
  ful ribbons around the animal’s neck. The cat,
  feeling that her natural appearance is going
  to be significantly manipulated, escapes and
  hides behind an armchair. Crazy. But the
  people in here are crazy – crazy and young
  and artistic and open-minded. Meet the direct
  gateway to the friendly alternative milieu of
  Edinburgh:The Forest Café. Its offerings cover
  far more than a fine selection of tea, coffee,
  soups and wraps – you can also attend film
  screenings, live music, poetry or language
  courses. Everything is for free.
  So it is not only a meeting point for
  creative people but also a place for crea-
  tivity itself which is impressively under-
  lined by the mixed, partly old-fashioned
  and inspiring interior.
  The Forest is exclusively run by volun-
  teers from all over Europe and they
  spread an enjoyable international am-
  bience. One of those is now helping to
  catch the cat. Crazy café.            WK



                                           bring your own alcohol from the
                                           supermarket and enjoy it here -
                                           no problem




                                                              19
20   What´s on tonite?
CAMEO                                                              V
Generally, when a cinema is tagged as the favourite in the
whole world by no less a figure than Quentin Tarantino, it
is time for the owner to pop the corks, as he should be set
for life . However, the cinema in question is not the most
profitable Art House venue in Edinburgh. With the Film-
house just some 300 feet a way, The Cameo has found
a worthy rival in the battle for the favour of the capital’s
cinéasts. Curtain up for the competition between one of
the oldest movie theatres and arguably the most important
cinema in Scotland!

Programme
On one big screen (253 seats), and two smaller screens
(75 and 66 seats) mainly alternative new-releases, but
also foreign-language films as well as classic re-issues
and documentaries are shown. Q&A screenings with
guests from the film industry take place on occasion.
The Double Bill on Sundays gives one the opportunity
to see two related films at the price of one. Every week
there is a different foreign-language film to be seen du-
ring the European matinee.


     Interiors              Eating and Drinking             Prices
The main auditorium                                  BEFORE 5PM: full price £5.50,
evokes reminiscences        After having seen a    Programme
                                                     concessions £4.20
                                                     AFTER 5PM: full price £6.50,
of the past through its     terrific movie, a visit
                                                     concessions £4.90
highly elegant Edwardi-     to the Café-bar is a
an style, which has been    must. Have a coffee in MO: full price £4.50, concessions
largely unchanged since     a relaxing atmosphe- £4.20
the inception in 1914.      re, listen to the golden WED FIRST SCREENING:
The sensation alone of      20s music and see        £1.50 for concessions holders
sitting in the cosy seats                            WEEKENDS: full price £6.50,
                            if you can name the
                                                     concessions £4.90
and enjoying the feeling    numerous actors and
of being in an abso-        directors on the walls! Concessions available for
lutely unique place is                               students, children under 15,
worthwhile.                                          claimants, senior citizens




                                                                                       21
Filmhouse



     Programme
     Next to the latest international arthouse releases, the Filmhouse offers a
     wide variety from the history of world cinema. The films that are shown on
     one big screen (280 seats) and two smaller screens (97 and 72 seats) are
     thoughtfully compiled into different seasons, such as “Totally Tati” or “The
     Best of Czech Cinema”.
     As this cinema is able to screen 70mm, it sometimes offers screenings of
     silent movies, which are accompanied live by a piano. Whoever experiences
     cinema at its origins in this way, can consider himself lucky!
     On the second Sunday of every month the film buffs compete in an extreme-
     ly tricky quiz, which makes even experts sweat. Participation in groups up to
     8, starting at 9am. It is however recommended to get there early in order to
     get a seat.



          Interiors               Eating and Drinking                      Prices
     The interior design is                                          BEFORE 5PM: full price
     kept simple, yet prac-     After having bought your ticket,     £4.90, concessions £3.30
                                you will notice there is something   AFTER 5PM: full price
     tical. When entering                                            £6.50, concessions £4.90.
                                missing. Yes, the Filmhouse
     the Lobby, one’s sight     does not sell any popcorn or
     first falls on a collec-   sweets, and as is turns out, this    FR: BARGAIN MATINEES:
     tion of outstanding        is quite convenient. One can fully   full price £3.60, concessi-
     DVDs, which can be         concentrate on the film and not      ons £2.10
     purchased. In front of     be bothered by the eating noises
                                of a neighbour. Nevertheless,        Concessions available
     the screen in the main                                          for students, school
                                one can have a reasonably priced
     auditorium, there is a     meal or a drink afterwards. The      pupils, children under 15,
     stage, which is perfect    café-bar is also a good place to     claimants, senior citizens,
     for Q&A screenings.        chat to other film-lovers.           disability or invalidity
                                                                     status



     CONCLUSION
      It is difficult to decide which cinema is better – in the end it all
      comes down to each individual’s personal taste. The real winner in
      the rivalry between the Cameo and the Filmhouse, though, are the
      movie-goers of Edinburgh: The fact that the programme directors
      seldom show a film which the other cinema is already showing,
      makes Edinburgh’s range of films so uniquely diverse.           ES
22
History and Culture




                      26
Between Innovation




                                                                  Scottish Parliament

                      “We have a building which is more than a building.”
                                                           Edwin Morgan


The first quality I have in mind when I think of   lost more lives than any other nation.
Scottish people is their strongly expressed pri-   While war was raging remote from home,
de in being Scottish. But what does that mean      Scottish husbands, sons and fathers were
for them- being Scottish? Maybe, besides the       sacrificing their lives while woman worked al-
richness of tradition and culture, it is related   most everywhere. This caused a fundamental
to the fact that the last 100 years have turned    change in established social structures.
Scottish society topsy-turvy. An approach.         Industry (originally dominated by coal, steel
                                                   and heavy engineering) experienced weigh-
Because of the improvement of shipbuilding         tily transformations. These sectors, which
through new technologies and practices, fishing    once had been so strong, now needed state
was revolutionised in the 20th century so that     support. Heavy industry was replaced by the
Scotland became one of Europe’s most impor-        service sector, as well as by knowledge eco-
tant exporters of sea food. As potentially one     nomy and the light high-tech industry in the
of the richest countries in renewable resources    1970s. The closure of Ravenscraig Steel Works
and the one that gains its energy entirely from    in 1992 was a symbol for the end of Scotland
natural resources (such as coal, oil and gas),     as a heavy industrial nation. The change in the
Scotland is well prepared for the future and the   textile industry was not less enormous. Where-
financial sector is sympathetic towards Scot-      as previously one in eight people was working
land, since it had started growing very quickly    in the textile industries the manifold products
in the 1970s, as well.This development might       were nearly reduced to tartan and cashmere.
support the fallacy that Scotland had weathe-      Together with the reduction of products, wor-
red the storms of war very easily but the in-      kers had to leave the factories. Fewer working
heritances of the 19th century were hard to        hours in the 20s were the result of globalisa-
carry.                                             tion and mechanisation, and subsequently a
Not only because of the huge political, econo-     lack of working places. People filled their free
mical and social changes, which led Scotland       time easily using the options modification, car
the way to its today’s place in the world, the     ownership and cheap holidays, which in the
lives of most Scots were deeply touched by         1960s found their way into society. They be-
World War I and II. Proportionally, Scotland       gan to travel around while Scotland, however,

                                                                                               27
and Tradition
                                                                        be used to add authority to
                       went on being the most                  the engrained wish of gaining political
            favourite place for taking holidays.     independence and acknowledgement on the
                                                     part of England.
“The Sick man of Europe”, that is what Scotland      Having conquered so many barriers on the
was called and not without any good reason.          way to finding their national identity, the
Poverty, sub-standard living conditions and life     words“There shall be a Scottish Parliament.”,
expectancy lower than in the Gaza Strip marked       written down in the Scotland Act of 1998,
the 20th century. Poor housing and health as         sounded greatly releasing to the Scottish peo-
well as unemployment was tackled by creating         ple. The labour government under Tony Blair
new towns and programmes of slum-clearance.          promised reform. On 11th of October, 1997
After the Second World War competing markets         a referendum was held to decide whether a
(in prices and goods) reduced smaller busines-       Scottish Parliament should be established and
ses to rubble and in times of the Internet a glo-    about its ability to vary taxation. Unsurprisin-
bal market for Scottish products was created.        gly the majority of Scots answered both ques-
A growing multiculturalism, votes for woman (es-     tions with yes.
tablished in 1918), their involvement in politics    Finally, on 1st of July, 1999, the first Scottish
plus the new-found voice of the working class        Parliament met for the first time since the
during the wars -of which the evolution of the       union in 1707, full of ambiguity to start work
labour-movement in Britain was an indication -       as this had happened very seldom in history.
made social life more colourful and innovative.
                                                     Notwithstanding these great changes, new-
Dealing with ordinary life was a daily occur-        ly acquired improvements in society and
rence until the 1970s, when people found time        the well-deserved pride on being Scottish, it
to question the loyalty to the Anglo-Scottish        should not be forgotten that serious problems
Union.                                               still do exist, such as social deprivation and
Therefore the foundation of the National Party       poor health. Finding a solution must be the
in 1934 (still a minority group) was a sign of re-   ultimate goal for the future which is fast ap-
covery from the gaping wounds inflicted by war.      proaching.                               LJ
Regained power and growing self-consciousness
could now




28
TEAM:
TEXT:
Marcel Bartsch
Ulrike R.
Gesa T.
Patricia O.
Eva Salomon
Willi Kubica
Leah Junck


LAYOUT/DESIGN:
Willi Kubica

WORKSHOP ASSISTANCE
Luca Fregonese
Rebecca White



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Curso24 Edinburgh Winter Sample

  • 2. Queen Street York Place Frederick St Castle Street Hanover Street Charlotte SQ St.Andrew SQ George Street Rose Street Princes Street North Bridge Scott´s Monument Lothian Road Carnival Edinburgh Castle Sotuh Bridge Royal Mile George IV Bridge Johnston TCE Grassmarket Cowgate Edinburgh City Centre CONTENT Itineraries 1 „We´re are having a barrie time“ 10 Eating and Whisky and more „What´s on tonite?“ 20 clubs and cinema and more History and Culture 26 galleries and tartan and more
  • 3. Edinburgh is the most desirable city to live in the UK. At least, according to a 2009 YouGov poll. Edinburgh came out top for its atmosphere and positive reputation. We, the authors of this guide, can approve these results. “Auld Reekie” is indeed a wonderful place to visit. There’s the Castle, the Scott Monument, Arthur’s Seat ... yes, we talk about them, too. But beyond those mainstream sights we leave the trampled tourist paths and try to create an alternative gui- de to Scotland’s capital. If you only have one or two days to stay our itineraries will help you spend them efficiently. Edinburgh is a rather pricy town, in general. But the are spots which offer cheap food, clothing or other items. Your wallet will thank you for taking our advice. Then, of course, there’s the whisky. You can’t leave Scotland without having tasted the best brands. Luckily, we have sorted out the the bad ones, so that you don’t have to. Finally, you’ll encounter people, attractions and stories you won’t find in any other tourist gui- de. For Edinburgh in all its grandeur is yet to be discovered. your City Travel Review Team
  • 4. In the following (text) we would like to suggest you three totally different options how to spend your days in char- ming Edinburgh in the most efficient, yet affordable way. It is up to you to choose between: a very touristy and therefore historic, massive and impressive day – a rather alternative, picturesque and unique day or a pretty artis- tic, educating and entertaining day. However, in the end it needs to be said that – as different as they might seem – each day in some way includes all the above mentioned adjectives. Itineraries In Scotland´s varied and inspiring Capital – Edinburgh - creativity and individuality is written in rather big letters. Maybe that is why became known for famous writers (like Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson), artists, philosophers (like David Hume), scientists and economics (like Adam Smith). Exploring Edinburgh´s Old and New Town includes a lot of walking. But thanks to closes, wynds and significant historic buildings a walk is not just a walk – it is rather an experience and discovery. You soon feel at home and protected in this friendly and curious area. However, public transportation is more than unnecessary to discover this place, which seems to be neither a town nor a city – but this exactly is what creates Edinburgh´s unique character. Although it kept its small, familiar flair and although this is the place where all the traditional, tiny specialized shops and their chatty salesperson still exist, it offers everything a human´s city heart might desire as well. It is now your time to be an explorer and to discover Edinburgh on your own, inspired by our itineraries. Have fun! 1
  • 5. Tour is ty Iti nera ry d as a World A visit to Edinburgh – inscribe 1995 – would Heritage Site by UNESCO in not actively visi- not be complete if you have d the treasure ted, experienced and absorbe all your senses – chest of historic gems with Royal Mile. that are at your disposal: the a of Edinburgh. The most typical touristy are to provide you Yes – although we would like anti-touristy with the most alternative and s to offer, we tips and places Edinburgh ha the chance to also feel the need to offer you ic Old Town, experience Edinburgh´s histor touristy attrac- and with it its indispensable tions. of the fact You might want to be aware l notice that today surely everyone wil is no shame that you are a tourist, which t most of the at all. Not that surprising tha on your route people you are going to see re is no today are tourists, too. So the day to need to hide – today is YOUR day to free the tourist in you – YOUR er the explore one souvenirshop aft ingly other and YOUR day to stunn stop and stare with your head s impressive t thrown back so to see thi building in front of you. 2
  • 6. To start this extraordinary day you climb up the four floors of the Scott´s Monument, which is situated in the heart of Princes Street. Hopefully it is a sunny day so that you have a clear overallview of Edinburgh in its full pride – the Monument´s four different viewpoints serve you with exclusive and accurate windy views to the North Sea, up Princes Street, down Princes Street with Carlton Hill & the Balmoral Hotel´s Big Ben – like clock in the background, and of course an excellent view of the Old Town and its Castle. Due to the fact that there are two other excellent viewpoints like Carlton Hill and Arthur´s Seat – which are, by the way, for free – you might not want to spend £3 on Scott´s Monument. Nevertheless it is higly recommen- ded, unless you are either afraid of heights, fat or claustrophobic. However, if you like cosy, dark spiral stair cases that lead you up the way – and force you to squeeze yourself past the descending strangers – it is worth the unique view. After getting the first impr the Royal M ession of th ile – approx e day from one and on imately a m above you ne ly pedestrian ile long, part ed to head tartans, scot zone in Edin ly still pretty to tish scarves, burgh. For royal and th used by tour Kilts, Shortbr those of yo e ist as souven ead or othe u who are in paradise - in irs for the lo r Scottish sp to cluding high ved ones w ecialities - buy ordinary class cashm ho stayed at touristy thin ere shops as home: this For the rest gs. well as afford is of you it mig able shops to guess abou ht be satisfyi t the other´ ng enough tourist. Ther s supply an to go in one efore you pa d move on of the stores front of the ss the Hea to fulfill thei , Church and rt of Midlo r task as a spit right in thian to yo proper the only plac the middle of ur left, righ Afterw e in Scotlan it. Indeed, th t in a d where you donke rds the ne are asked to spit in public is probably is y ridin xt att . but u g a ho ractio nfortu rse – n wait in the nately actua s p th lly this just aroun inbetw ast so tha ere were is the dt een lo t it no m statue he corner ts of p w loo ade some of an –a ks a b a arking spots it disp rchitectica admiral, . laced l mist and is akes banis hed 3
  • 7. As you are already next to the Church it is worth paying attention to it and to go in for a few minutes and – hopefully on a sunny day – to watch the reflections of the imressive stained glass windows. However, the most important information about the Royal Mile is that it connects the Edinburgh Castle in the North with the Holyrood Pa- lace and the new, controversial Scotish Parliament in the South. Surely, there are some people who like to see the castle from inside – who like to see the room where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to her son James, the future King of Scotland and England – who like to see the Stone of Destiny as well as the Scottish Crown Jewels, called the Honours of Scotland,. Nevertheless this takes about 2 hours, so that probably some of you are satisfied with a picture of each on a flyer and spend their time in a maybe more fun and exciting place – the Camera Obscura right below the Castle. As the touristy day moves on Unsurprisingly, you will surely the Royal Mile feel the need dinner and of offers you a w to get somethi course beer or ide variety of pl ng to eat. and less known whisky. So ther aces to have lu as well as smal e are lots of tr nch, coffee, cused coffee sh ler sandwich sh aditional pubs, ops, which offe ops offering go inexpensive Starbucks and r you soups-of od food, young- Subway. All in -the-day, as w people fo- lunchbreak. Ho all you indeed ell as maintream wever, as we ar have more than shops like Scottish Haggi e on our tourist one option to s with Neeps an ic route its appr spend your cal, is having fa d Tatties in one opriate to have st food á la Sc of the local pu a propper otland: deep fri bs. Cheaper, bu ed Fish&Chips. t still typi- After having lunch it is time to take a walk to the graveyard. “Why go to a graveyard?“, you might wonder. But this is not just any graveyard. It is THE graveyard. The graveyard where you can find the most haunted Mausoleum in Edinburgh and even more important: the graveyard including Greyfriar Bobby´s Grave! The grave itself is worshipped with a few pale-coloured plastic flowers and rain-soaked cuddle toys. You might not have heard of “Bobby, the Terrier“ who, after the death of his owner, used to come to his grave for the rest of his live, 14 years, to still take care of him. Just around the corner Edinburgh dedicated Bobby a statue, which now ist the most photographed statue in Edinburgh – so feel free to unpack you camera and take the 100.000th Bobby-picture to update your photogallery. 4
  • 8. Regardless of any age, you surely have heard of J.K.Rowling, the author of “Harry Potter“. If you go down Southbridge it is hard to miss the red building to your left, called: “The Elephant House“, which is the place where Rowling got inspired to write her stories about young Wizards attending school in an old, mysterious Castle called Hogwarts. That is why this Café is also called “The birthplace of Harry Potter“. Hopefully this sounds interesting enough to you to go in. You might wonder why ele- phants inspired today´s second richest woman in Scotland (on a list right below the Queen) to write such an anti-elephanitc story. That is because it was not the cafe´s – still present - elephants that inspired her, but the unique, undisturbed and incredible viewpoint of the Castle, situated on the remnants of a volcano formed 340 milllion years ago. This looks impressively dangerous but still secure, with the graveyard in front of it – leading the observers view up the hill. After this impressive break it is hard to be surprised by anythin t of the picturesque. Neverth g more Stepping ou you eless you should give it a try and therefore visit the Gallery´s building “National Gallery of Scotland“, which is on Princes Street fall out Scott´s Monument. Depending on how – near the will literaryly interested you are in Scotland´s erman“ pretigious national collection, including European art from into the “G the 16th until market, 19th centuries and early Italian and Dutch paintings up to 1530, this Christmas mes you tour takes from half an hour to 2 hours. If your feet already hurt and which welco warming you feel the need to sit down you can also use the IT-Gallery and ex- with a hot, plore the collections using a new, modern and innovative Glühwein, Crepes, cho- computer. touch-screen laced ap ples colate-g balls and The chances of taking your tourist tour on a Tuesday are approximately 1 to or marzipan 7. If it is a Tuesday, you should end the day with a Ceileidh Dance Course grilled pota toes – just at Grass Market, accompanied by live Folkmusic (including a Fiddle, Drums christm as as a good ee to and surely an Accordeon) This is an introduction into the Scottish Folkdance, shou ld do. Feel fr mostly attended by groups, couples, friends, singles and above all tourists as ild in you well as locals. Especially if you forgot to bring a partner along with you, the satisfy the ch of old, renovated church crowded with people of the average age of 23 might - on one with a ride Mary- in the beginning - rather evokes the impression of a “SingleMarket or Speed the the horses of dating“. However, there are lots of group dances that get even the stiffest and nquer most moody person to laugh, dance, clap their hands, be happy and forget G o-Round or co all their doubts of dancing in front of strangers – because actually you dance your fear with them. Moreover it is not the normal, traditional standard dance or disco -of- hights dance which you might imagine, it is much more a running, interaction and in a circling each other around, with the purpose to shout out loud full of happi- ride ness and to have a jolly-good time. And beyond any doubt: it is hardly that easy to laugh and have a good time with a lot of open-minded people in a in th e good mood. And if you still not feel the need to dance – you can also just sit Ferris down, have a beer, watch from the first floor and reflect the day. GT wheel. 5
  • 9. Alternative Itinerary This is the day to enjoy breathtaking views and to walk the hidden path in order to explore unique places. Start your day with a typical Scottish breakfast which usualy includes toast, an egg, sausage, beans and black pudding (just so that it is not mistaken with tasty chocola- te pudding - better described as: blood-sausage). Mostly it is called (among tourists): Hangover-Breakfast. The fact that the Scotsman likes to eat this kind of breakfast quite often, leaves no doubt why Scotland is the the num- ber one on the list of the country with the highest rate of heart-attacks. A pretty good place to have breakfast would be „The Mit- re“, which is a huge pub on Royal Mile, where breakfast starts at £4,50. But there are several other places to get traditional breakfast on the Royal Mile as well, such as „The Crag and Tail“. This is a more modern, plain styled restaurant where breakfast starts at £5,95. After having such a filling breakfast it is a good idea to go for a nice walk, which leads you down Royal Mile, along the new Scottish Parliament, established in 2001, and the Holyrood Palace, opposite to it. Your walk takes you further to Arthur´s Seat – the hill which is so close to town but whose nature still preser- ves such a lovely, mystical and magical atmosphere as if wandering around the Hobbit´s Landscape. The further you go the longer, steeper and more ex- hausting gets the hill – but keeping in mind the reward of the view you are going to get it is absolutely worth the effort. After this succesful hike you are allowed to proudly rest on top of Arthur´s Seat and to take a few or ma- ybe a lot of pictures. 6
  • 10. As usually going down a hill is much easier and faster, you soon arrive at the end of Royal Mile again. Do you have the flavour of warm, creamy and homemade soup, tasty like your mother used to cook it for you, in mind? This means it is time to head to delightful “Hula“ at Grassmarket. In a warm, orange-toned atmosphere they welcome you with warming, homemade food such as bagels or soups. For the ones who instead feel the need to be spoilt with a hot chocolate or a strong whis- key, the Grassmarket offers a variety of inexpensive, cosy pubs. You might have already noticed that Grassmarket looks a bit different compared to all the other places Edinburgh offered you so far. Congratulations! You just discovered one of Scotland´s most exciting and unique area. Surrounded by Victoria Street (once Edinburgh´s most illegal area), Cowgate and Candlemaker Row and its well preserved architecture from 1700, this area leaves you stunned by an occasionally creepy, weird and alternative selection of shops. Here, in he heart of the Old Town, vintage shops (like Armstrong, having celebrity fans like Kaiser Chiefs and Franz Ferdinand) are nestled next to joke shops, exclusive Scottish de- sign shops, gothic and corset as well as hat specialists, trendy shops as well as old-fashioned or science fiction oriented book stores and comic stores. 7
  • 11. To move on with this impressive day, a visit to the Dean Gallery or the Gallery of Modern Art right next to it would be appropriate. Despite the Galleries themselves, which are on Belford Road, the walk to get there is pretty amazing, too. First of all you get a pretty good impression of Edinburgh´s less touristy area and maybe get inspired by some cafés or pubs you pass. Secondly, walking along feels like being one of the students you pass on your way – going home to your cosy apartment on the third floor with its beautiful view of the park right behind the house. Why not fantasise how the flat right below the roof of the house with these many, lovely chimneys looks like. How would it be to live in there? It is now time to lay back entirely relaxed and carefree while nipping on a warming cup of hot chocolate. Urbanangel Café offers everyone his own private space- whether you want to read, chat or just have a second on your own to feel like an angel - in a modern, clean and sober, yet lovely heartwarming atmosphere. Not to forget, that this is the place to get the best chocolate brownies in town. To end this day you could attend a pubquiz, which is pretty famous among the local people and is usually held by dif- ferent pubs on a fixed day of the week. On Monday´s for instance “The Bailies“ is full of young, curious locals who hope to be able to answer the quizmaster´s questions on anything - from celebrities to politics and geography, while enjoying good company and a few beers. Surely you some- times just have to guess the answer, therefore you can get extrapoints for extraordinarily funny answers. Feel free so shout and cheer like a real Scotsman! GT
  • 12. ra ry I tine ar ty sh ort- The Art Galleries in the Dundas Street Mc Naughton´s Start your day with several Book Shop small and different art coll- on Leith Walk ections, all side by side. Find some old beautiful books here - for 2nd Hand prices! Filmhouse Calton Hill Enjoy the view and relax. on Lothian Road Go for a film in this unique independent cinema. The Bowery on Roxborrow Place Listen to live music and have a beer in the evening.
  • 13. PUB „We´re having a barrie time!“ 10
  • 14. Eating and drinking in the land of the brave Scotland’s cuisine is not really known as a gourmet’s cuisine. Due to limited sun- shine and a lot of wind and rain during the year there is not a wide range of native products growing naturally in Scotland. Root crops such as carrots or potatoes are plentiful whereas fruits and other types of vegetables are largely imported from countries with a warmer climate. After having spent three weeks in Scotland just eating traditional food you may put on some weight. Nevertheless, some Scottish food is better than its reputation. What Scotsmen eat for breakfast Scots don’t shirk breakfast. Traditional breakfast includes, of course, por- ridge. This mixture of oats and water can be delicious if you are a fan of gruel. In fact, porridge was the main diet for generations of Scots in former times. Traditionalists of the older generation swear that the only way to eat it is just with water and a dash of salt. Nowadays, it is mostly mixed with cream, fruit, butter or even whisky to give it a hint of the exotic. People visit- ing Scotland for the first time are generally amazed by cooked breakfast but it is not popular with everyone. If you enjoy a traditional breakfast you have to make your way through the mixture of egg, sausage, bacon, chips, toast, mushrooms, baked beans and black pudding. In contrast to this, if you are into common continental break- fast you will also find this anywhere. What to eat for a quick lunch After having a rich breakfast you may not feel like having lunch. Nevertheless, if you are in the mood of eating further there are a lot of nice pubs and restaurants to pop in. Lunch tends to be taken quickly or on the hop. For lunch people mainly have a snack like a soup, a pie or a sandwich. Going out for dinner Being surrounded by so many deep oceans, fish still make up an important part of the Scottish food. In Scotland they have a variety of excellent native fish, such as smoked salmon, herring and haddock. Venison and deer are popular with gour- mets too. Available all year, venison has a strong, distinctive taste. There is plenty of wild game to choose from, such as rabbit, duck, partridge or pigeon. People focus much more on dinner than on lunch as dinner is the actual main meal of the day. 11
  • 15. Fish and chips: Fish and chips is a popular take-away food in Scotland therefore you definitely have to try it once. It consists of deep-fried fish (traditionally cod, haddock or flounder) in batter or bread crumbs with deep-fried chipped potatoes. Scottish dessert: It seems that Scottish people have a sweet tooth because there are a lot of delicious but extremely sweet desserts. The most famous one is probably fudge, a small toffee bar si- milar to caramel, mainly made of sugar and butter. After a visit in the Fudge House you get a sugar shock for sure! If you are into sweet staff you will be satisfied with having some cheesecake, Dundee cake, shortbread or dou- ghnut... there is enough for everyone. If you visit Edinburgh try Pies: these typical Scottish dishes: Pies are simply pieces of meat in gravy encased with crusty pastry. These pies are filled with minced meat and onions. Often, the meat is replaced by innards. According to the traditi- on mutton meat is used but nowadays beef is Haggis with tatties and neeps: more commonly used. There are different types Haggis is Scotland’s national dish. It even of pies, such as fish pie, chicken pie, mince pie comes up first in people’s minds when or steak pie. they think about Scotland. In the distant past when times were hard, haggis was a creative way of using up what is left over. It is offal with oats, spices, and pepper. Ingredients are stuffed into a sheep’s sto- mach to be baked and served up with tat- ties and neeps. Despite the fact that this all sounds awful, haggis is surprisingly tasty. As Scottish people more and more have become vegetarians they have in- vented vegetarian Haggis. It is a popular alternative to the old blood and guts way. 12
  • 16. After strolling around Edinburgh in search of nice places to appease one’s appetite or hunger here are some sugges- tions of locations to go to: Crag and Tail (Restaurant) Gourmet Burger Kitchen (Restaurant) 503 Lawnmarket, Royal Mile, 137 George Street EH2 4JY Edinburgh, EH1 2PH British and Irish franchise but tasty burgers at Small but modern, friendly internati- reasonable prices, huge portions, also offers onal staff, offer typical Scottish food, exotic burgers (e.g. Avocado burger, Jamaican good place to enjoy rich Scottish burger), contemporary interior design, lounge music, nice alternative to pubs and touristy breakfast but also a place to be in the places for business people as well as students. evenings. Wannaburger (Restaurant) Susie’s Wholefood Diner (Vegetari- 217 High Street an restaurant) Edinburgh, EH1 1PE 51 West Nicolson Street, Newington At first glance it seems to be a mainstream Edinburgh EH8 9DB fast food restaurant but it is probably one Specialises in organic vegetarian meals, of the best places to enjoy a big delicious relaxed atmosphere, chilled out staff, burger in Edinburgh, very friendly staff, students’ area, ideal for low budget. easy-going and young atmosphere. Halfway House (Pub) Black Medicine Coffee Co. 24 Fleshmarket Close, 2 Nicolson Street Edinburgh, EH8 8DH Edinburgh, EH1 1BX Cosy and casual atmosphere, non conventi- The smallest pub in Edinburgh, winner onal place, meeting point for young people of the award for pub of the year 2009, and students, friendly staff, independent pri- vate run coffee shop, wide range of teas and hidden in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old fresh smoothies, broad range of food ranging Town, tiny but warmly welcoming you, from chocolate fudge cake and cookies to cia- they specialise in ales/beers. batta melts and soups. Jekyll & Hide Pub (Pub) L’alba D’oro (Fish’n’chips) 112 Hanover Street 5-7 Henderson Row, New Town Edinburgh, Midlothian EH2 1DR Edinburgh, EH3 5DH A bit dark but pretty individual place, toilets are hidden behind a bookcase, Probably best chippy in Edinburgh, unique character, chatty and delight- take-away and delivery. ful staff, regular comedy nights. 13
  • 17. The Underground Café (coffee) The Kenilworth (Pub) 34 Elder Street 152-154 Rose Street Edinburgh, EH1 3DX Edinburgh, EH2 3JD, United Kingdom Welcoming atmosphere, cosy seats, Small venue but cosy and friendly place, friendly staff, huge portions, ideal for having a chat and get some delicious meals, also reasonably priced coffee, tea or snack. typical Scottish breakfast. Biddy Mulligans (Pub) Royal Mile Tavern (Pub) 96 Grassmarket Edinburgh, EH1 2JR 127 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1SG Old-fashioned style, very rustic and Discounts for backpackers who are Scottish, ideal for typical Pub feeling staying in a hostel, lovely staff, friendly when enjoying a beer. Delicious and warmly welcoming atmosphere, young reasonably priced meals for lunch, e.g. people’s meeting point, live music play- soup with bread, a place where you find ing current rock songs, nice place for locals drinking a beer with a good friend Bannerman’s (Pub) The Canny Man (Pub) 212 Cowgate/Niddry Street Edinburgh, 237 Morning Side Road EH1 1NQ EH10 4 QU Historic pub, a bit hidden below South Bridge, mee- Outside the city centre but worth going there, ting point for students and backpackers, sometimes alternative style, individual pub full of nooks, crowded but very lively, live new alternative music staffed with antique and junk, pub with the (Folk, Rock, Indie, Punk, Metal), Karaoke, student widest range of whiskies in the city, famous discounts, not a place to go for just a quiet drink, it for delicious food, if they don’t want you to is a place to get drunk and get to know new people. enter you won’t enter. UR 14
  • 18. Well, if you are hungry right now after reading all this staff about food and meals in Scotland there is just one thing to be recommended to you: have a look at the following table as it might help you to find your way through the Scottish gourmet jungle: angus beef Gourmet beef from Scottish Angus cow banger and mash sausage with mashed potatoes bashed neeps mashed beetroot/turnip black pudding blood sausage cock-a-leekie chicken soup with leek cullen skink fish soup with smoked fish haggis sheep stomach filled with sheep’s innards, oat and onions ham & haddy smoked haddock topped with ham and cheese hugga-muggie fish-haggis served in fish stomach kipper hot smoked bloater/red herring mince minced meat with onions and gravy scotch broth vegetable soup with grain from pearl barley stovies purée from potatoes and onions white pudding fried or roasted white sausage, sometimes for vegetarians bannock flat oat bread either sweet or spicy black bun traditional fruit cake for Hogmanay (= New Year’s Eve) clootie dumpling typical Christmas cake with raisins and cinnamon fudge soft butter toffee scone little sweet cake made of flour and butter (cheese) oatcake cookie made of oat (with cheese) shortbread biscuits made of short pastry with a lot of butter; butter coo- kies chippy fish and chips porridge boiled oats with water/milk turnips type of vegetable, a root dundee cake extremely sweet and heavy cake gaelic coffee Irish coffee with scotch whisky hotch potch soup with lamb and vegetables neeps beetroot/turnip pie filled pâté venison meat from deer tatties potatoes toddy whisky with hot water and sugar (when someone’s got a cold) 15
  • 19. Let´s have a dram! You have never drunk whisky? What would be a visit to Scotland without ha- ving tasted a nice glass of whisky? Well, you probably know Jack Daniel’s mixed In order to add a subtle nuance, quality with Coke, but guys, this is not what we are Scotch whiskies are often aged in used talking about here! True whisky is produ- casks from Bourbon production. Scotch ced where men wear kilts, where cows are whiskies are divided into five main regions hairy and sheep’s innards are considered a namely Highland, Lowland, Islay, Speyside country’s favourite meal. (Tip: visit Dufftown!) and Campbeltown. The No other beverage is so intimately connec- natural water in each region contributes to ted to the spirit of a nation. The word for the taste of a whisky. whisky itself has its root in the old Gaelic t Whisky has established itself as an affordable erm for water, uisge. Uisge beatha means luxury with a trend for drinking less but bet- the water of life in Gaelic. Outside Scotland ter. Scotland continues to set the pace when you order a glass of whisky… but if you want it comes to wonderful whisky. Industry figu- to do this in a Scottish way then you order res prove that shipments of whisky abroad a dram! are up despite economic recession. Scotsmen Whisky is a delicious but strong alcoholic be- can proudly present their Scotch whisky ex- verage distilled from fermented grain mash. port quota which already represents 20% of Different grains are used for different vari- Scotland’s manufactured exports. One of the eties, including barley, malted barley, rye, great joys when it comes to whisky is disco- malted rye, wheat and maize. While the vering an unfamiliar distillery and finding it market is dominated by blends, the most produces wonderful single malts. If you do highly prized of Scotch whiskies are the not have the opportunity to do so just take single malts which are made of one type of a look at the list below with suggestions of grain. Whiskies mature in wooden casks what types of whisky one could start with on which are generally made of oak. a whisky experience. Here are some affordable Scottish Single Malt whiskies that can be recommended. They are mainly light and delicate ones, therefore also suitable for the Ladies ;) Name Age Taste Produc- tion Aberlour 10 very soft, dry, fresh and fruity aroma from apples and pears, Speyside sweet toffee note, hint of marzipan (honey and nuts), smooth and creamy finishing Dalwhinnie 15 Aromatic nose with hints of peat, sweet, hint of honey and Highland vanilla, with a bit citrus fruit flavour, long intense finish which starts sweet but gets to peat and malt Glenfarclas 10 fruity, hints of dried fruit, cinnamon and vanilla, a wee oily, Speyside smokiness combined with sherry sweetness, long smooth and spicy finish Glenlivet 12 Aromatic, flowery, clean and simple though some spice, notes Speyside of vanilla, slightly sweet, long but mild and warming finish Macallan 15 matured in sherry and bourbon oak, smooth and light, the Speyside Fine Oak aroma has a hint of rose and cinnamon, the finishing tastes like chocolate with hints of orange and raisins, lingering Some other very delicious and aromatic ones that you should try are, for instance, Mortlach, Macallan, Glenfiddich, Edradour and Balvenie... well, the reason why the whiskies mentioned above are mainly from the Speyside or the Highlands is simply because Scots say the magic that makes their whiskies better than anyone else’s is in the water from their Highland rivers! 16
  • 20. If you want to immerse yourself into the delicate world of whisky, you should consider some things in order to enjoy the full cheer and not to make a fool of yourself. Just follow some easy instructions and you will learn how to become a whisky expert ;) Lesson 1 How to prepare for a whisky tasting: a) The smaller the glass the better b) Use water to mix with the whisky or drink between the whiskies. This will enrich the taste, or bouquet as the professionals call it. c) Concentrate on smell (nose), palate (taste) and finish (after-taste) and finally overall impression d) If you want to eat something with it have some crackers or oat- cakes Lesson 2 How to taste a whisky: a) Swill the whisky around in the glass (but take care you do not spill it!) b) Put the glass just below your nose, smell it (but don’t take a breath too deep!) and describe what you smell – Is it fruit, vanilla, caramel? Is it fishy or smoky? c) Taste a wee bit and let it rest some seconds in your mouth. It can be soft or sharp, spicy or nutty, fruity or smoky. d) Finally swallow it. It can have a long or short aftertaste, gentle and fruity or sharp and spicy. UR+PO 17 Edradour Whiskey Distillery
  • 21. The widest range of whiskies to buy can probably be found at Peckhams (Peckham & Rye, 155-159 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh, EH10 4DG, Uni- ted Kingdom, +44 131 228 2888) or in one of those specialised whisky retailers in the city of Edinburgh. So just pop in one of the following: Cadenhead Royal Mile The Whisky Shop Whisky Shop Whiskies 28 Victoria Street 172 Canongate 379 High Street Edinburgh Edinburgh Edinburgh EH1 EH1 2JW EH8 8DF 1PW +44 (0)131 225 +44 (0)131 556 +44 (0) 131 225 4666 5864 3383 18
  • 22. The Forest My old wooden table is decorated with a beer bottle which serves as a vase for a yellow rose.While using the free WiFi I observe this girl sitting near me. She is getting a red cat out of her huge bag and starts to put colour- ful ribbons around the animal’s neck. The cat, feeling that her natural appearance is going to be significantly manipulated, escapes and hides behind an armchair. Crazy. But the people in here are crazy – crazy and young and artistic and open-minded. Meet the direct gateway to the friendly alternative milieu of Edinburgh:The Forest Café. Its offerings cover far more than a fine selection of tea, coffee, soups and wraps – you can also attend film screenings, live music, poetry or language courses. Everything is for free. So it is not only a meeting point for creative people but also a place for crea- tivity itself which is impressively under- lined by the mixed, partly old-fashioned and inspiring interior. The Forest is exclusively run by volun- teers from all over Europe and they spread an enjoyable international am- bience. One of those is now helping to catch the cat. Crazy café. WK bring your own alcohol from the supermarket and enjoy it here - no problem 19
  • 23. 20 What´s on tonite?
  • 24. CAMEO V Generally, when a cinema is tagged as the favourite in the whole world by no less a figure than Quentin Tarantino, it is time for the owner to pop the corks, as he should be set for life . However, the cinema in question is not the most profitable Art House venue in Edinburgh. With the Film- house just some 300 feet a way, The Cameo has found a worthy rival in the battle for the favour of the capital’s cinéasts. Curtain up for the competition between one of the oldest movie theatres and arguably the most important cinema in Scotland! Programme On one big screen (253 seats), and two smaller screens (75 and 66 seats) mainly alternative new-releases, but also foreign-language films as well as classic re-issues and documentaries are shown. Q&A screenings with guests from the film industry take place on occasion. The Double Bill on Sundays gives one the opportunity to see two related films at the price of one. Every week there is a different foreign-language film to be seen du- ring the European matinee. Interiors Eating and Drinking Prices The main auditorium BEFORE 5PM: full price £5.50, evokes reminiscences After having seen a Programme concessions £4.20 AFTER 5PM: full price £6.50, of the past through its terrific movie, a visit concessions £4.90 highly elegant Edwardi- to the Café-bar is a an style, which has been must. Have a coffee in MO: full price £4.50, concessions largely unchanged since a relaxing atmosphe- £4.20 the inception in 1914. re, listen to the golden WED FIRST SCREENING: The sensation alone of 20s music and see £1.50 for concessions holders sitting in the cosy seats WEEKENDS: full price £6.50, if you can name the concessions £4.90 and enjoying the feeling numerous actors and of being in an abso- directors on the walls! Concessions available for lutely unique place is students, children under 15, worthwhile. claimants, senior citizens 21
  • 25. Filmhouse Programme Next to the latest international arthouse releases, the Filmhouse offers a wide variety from the history of world cinema. The films that are shown on one big screen (280 seats) and two smaller screens (97 and 72 seats) are thoughtfully compiled into different seasons, such as “Totally Tati” or “The Best of Czech Cinema”. As this cinema is able to screen 70mm, it sometimes offers screenings of silent movies, which are accompanied live by a piano. Whoever experiences cinema at its origins in this way, can consider himself lucky! On the second Sunday of every month the film buffs compete in an extreme- ly tricky quiz, which makes even experts sweat. Participation in groups up to 8, starting at 9am. It is however recommended to get there early in order to get a seat. Interiors Eating and Drinking Prices The interior design is BEFORE 5PM: full price kept simple, yet prac- After having bought your ticket, £4.90, concessions £3.30 you will notice there is something AFTER 5PM: full price tical. When entering £6.50, concessions £4.90. missing. Yes, the Filmhouse the Lobby, one’s sight does not sell any popcorn or first falls on a collec- sweets, and as is turns out, this FR: BARGAIN MATINEES: tion of outstanding is quite convenient. One can fully full price £3.60, concessi- DVDs, which can be concentrate on the film and not ons £2.10 purchased. In front of be bothered by the eating noises of a neighbour. Nevertheless, Concessions available the screen in the main for students, school one can have a reasonably priced auditorium, there is a meal or a drink afterwards. The pupils, children under 15, stage, which is perfect café-bar is also a good place to claimants, senior citizens, for Q&A screenings. chat to other film-lovers. disability or invalidity status CONCLUSION It is difficult to decide which cinema is better – in the end it all comes down to each individual’s personal taste. The real winner in the rivalry between the Cameo and the Filmhouse, though, are the movie-goers of Edinburgh: The fact that the programme directors seldom show a film which the other cinema is already showing, makes Edinburgh’s range of films so uniquely diverse. ES 22
  • 27. Between Innovation Scottish Parliament “We have a building which is more than a building.” Edwin Morgan The first quality I have in mind when I think of lost more lives than any other nation. Scottish people is their strongly expressed pri- While war was raging remote from home, de in being Scottish. But what does that mean Scottish husbands, sons and fathers were for them- being Scottish? Maybe, besides the sacrificing their lives while woman worked al- richness of tradition and culture, it is related most everywhere. This caused a fundamental to the fact that the last 100 years have turned change in established social structures. Scottish society topsy-turvy. An approach. Industry (originally dominated by coal, steel and heavy engineering) experienced weigh- Because of the improvement of shipbuilding tily transformations. These sectors, which through new technologies and practices, fishing once had been so strong, now needed state was revolutionised in the 20th century so that support. Heavy industry was replaced by the Scotland became one of Europe’s most impor- service sector, as well as by knowledge eco- tant exporters of sea food. As potentially one nomy and the light high-tech industry in the of the richest countries in renewable resources 1970s. The closure of Ravenscraig Steel Works and the one that gains its energy entirely from in 1992 was a symbol for the end of Scotland natural resources (such as coal, oil and gas), as a heavy industrial nation. The change in the Scotland is well prepared for the future and the textile industry was not less enormous. Where- financial sector is sympathetic towards Scot- as previously one in eight people was working land, since it had started growing very quickly in the textile industries the manifold products in the 1970s, as well.This development might were nearly reduced to tartan and cashmere. support the fallacy that Scotland had weathe- Together with the reduction of products, wor- red the storms of war very easily but the in- kers had to leave the factories. Fewer working heritances of the 19th century were hard to hours in the 20s were the result of globalisa- carry. tion and mechanisation, and subsequently a Not only because of the huge political, econo- lack of working places. People filled their free mical and social changes, which led Scotland time easily using the options modification, car the way to its today’s place in the world, the ownership and cheap holidays, which in the lives of most Scots were deeply touched by 1960s found their way into society. They be- World War I and II. Proportionally, Scotland gan to travel around while Scotland, however, 27
  • 28. and Tradition be used to add authority to went on being the most the engrained wish of gaining political favourite place for taking holidays. independence and acknowledgement on the part of England. “The Sick man of Europe”, that is what Scotland Having conquered so many barriers on the was called and not without any good reason. way to finding their national identity, the Poverty, sub-standard living conditions and life words“There shall be a Scottish Parliament.”, expectancy lower than in the Gaza Strip marked written down in the Scotland Act of 1998, the 20th century. Poor housing and health as sounded greatly releasing to the Scottish peo- well as unemployment was tackled by creating ple. The labour government under Tony Blair new towns and programmes of slum-clearance. promised reform. On 11th of October, 1997 After the Second World War competing markets a referendum was held to decide whether a (in prices and goods) reduced smaller busines- Scottish Parliament should be established and ses to rubble and in times of the Internet a glo- about its ability to vary taxation. Unsurprisin- bal market for Scottish products was created. gly the majority of Scots answered both ques- A growing multiculturalism, votes for woman (es- tions with yes. tablished in 1918), their involvement in politics Finally, on 1st of July, 1999, the first Scottish plus the new-found voice of the working class Parliament met for the first time since the during the wars -of which the evolution of the union in 1707, full of ambiguity to start work labour-movement in Britain was an indication - as this had happened very seldom in history. made social life more colourful and innovative. Notwithstanding these great changes, new- Dealing with ordinary life was a daily occur- ly acquired improvements in society and rence until the 1970s, when people found time the well-deserved pride on being Scottish, it to question the loyalty to the Anglo-Scottish should not be forgotten that serious problems Union. still do exist, such as social deprivation and Therefore the foundation of the National Party poor health. Finding a solution must be the in 1934 (still a minority group) was a sign of re- ultimate goal for the future which is fast ap- covery from the gaping wounds inflicted by war. proaching. LJ Regained power and growing self-consciousness could now 28
  • 29. TEAM: TEXT: Marcel Bartsch Ulrike R. Gesa T. Patricia O. Eva Salomon Willi Kubica Leah Junck LAYOUT/DESIGN: Willi Kubica WORKSHOP ASSISTANCE Luca Fregonese Rebecca White www.curso24.de