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1. d
n
m
o
k
5
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o
DENIMIST
2011
DNMSTDENIMDESINGFASHIONARTLIFE
DB
DENIM BOOK
D E N I M I S T

2. DB
DENIM B O O K
DENIMIST
T U R K E Y
Since
decades
Denimist
has
developed
know-­‐how
in
denim
finishing
prior
to
garment
manufacturing
and
also
in
jeans
washing.
Our
customers
derive
benefit
from
this
experience.For
the
fabric
production
we
offer
finishing
chemicals
which
provide
the
demanded
fabric
properties
such
as
good
sewability,
stiffness,elasticity
and
handle.
The
other
field
of
our
activity
is
the
recommendation
of
laundring
Procedures
for
ready-­‐made
clothing
such
as
trousers,
jackets
or
skirts,
shirts.
In
doing
so
we
have
learned
that
many
errors
may
occur
in
this
complicated
production
process.
The
laundry,
the
last
step
in
the
sequence
of
producers,
is
faced
to
difficulties
which
are
caused
by
previous
inaccuracies.
Therefore,
a
good
cooperation
among
the
steps
of
jeans
manufacturing
is
required
to
avoid
problems.
Fabric
producer,
garment
manufacturer
and
laundries
have
to
work
together
to
obtain
the
desired
end
result.
By
means
of
our
contacts
on
both
sides
of
the
production
process
we
are
able
to
make
our
contribution.
The
technical
stuff
of
Denimist
is
always
ready
to
help
our
customers
with
eventual
problems
and
to
modify
production
procedures
according
to
the
respective
requirements.
Through
our
numerous
contacts
which
we
have
got
with
denim
producers,
garment
manufacturers
and
laundries
during
the
years
we
support
the
team
work
among
all
sections
of
the
jeans
chain
and
make
our
know-­‐how
available
to
all
of
the
parties
concerned

3. DBDENIM B O O K
GARMENT
PROCESSING
This
technical
guide
in
hand
shall
support
the
practical
man
to
solve
problems
on
the
spot
and
to
replyt
to
the
most
frequent
questions.
Besides
this
guide
we
refer
to
our
technical
leaflets
which
provide
detailed
information
about
the
mentioned
products.
A
few
years
ago
garment
treatment
was
related
to
the
washing
of
blue
and
black
denim.
Nowadays,
a
much
more
extensive
treatment
of
garments
is
carried
out
in
the
laundries,
e.g.
dyeing,
wrinkle-­‐free
finish,
coating
by
spraying
etc.

4. DBDENIM B O O K
Therefore,
it
is
also
called
garment
processing.
Because
denim
fashion
was
the
beginning
of
today´s
garment
treatment
and
especially
because
jeans
washing
is
still
the
most
part
of
the
treated
garments
we
present
some
worth
knowing
items
about
denim.
Denim
Fashion
Denim
–
this
word
derives
from
„Serge
de
Nimes“,
a
coarse
cotton
fabric
which
was
manufactured
in
the
Provence
during
the
previous
century.
The
designation
denim
fabric
is
used
for
fabrics
on
the
market
containing
a
dyed
warp
yarn
and
a
greige
white
cotton
filling.
The
warp
yarn
may
be
dyed
with
sulphur,pigment
or
reactive
dyestuffs.
However,
indigo-­‐dyed
blue
denim
is
dominating.
As
a
rule
the
warp
yarn
is
dyed
on
continuous
dyeing
machines
in
form
of
a
warp
or
cable.

5. DB
DENIM B O O K
The
continuous
dyed
yarn
is
usually
dried
in
one
step
and
afterwards,
the
sizing
process
follows
immediatelly.
For
sizing
of
the
coarse
cotton
yarns
which
are
usually
used
for
denim
fabrics
sizing
agents
based
on
modified
starch
are
preferred.
Often
these
sizing
agents
contain
additional
omponents
like
acrylates
in
order
to
reduce
dust
problems
and
waxes
to
improve
the
lubrication
effect.
After
weaving
the
denim
fabric
is
finished.
In
finishing
the
sought
after
stiff
hand
which
eases
garment
making
of
this
material
needs
to
be
provided.
In
addition
chemicals
are
applied
which
improve
the
sewability.
By
mechanical
means
the
necessary
fabric
stability
and
the
shrinkage
properties
must
be
adjusted
to
prevent
shrinkage
in
the
following
jeans
washing
process.
Finishing
is
usually
carried
out
on
continuous
ranges
comprising
a
singe,
a
padder,
a
can
dryer
and
a
sanforizing
unit.
On
a
can
dryer
the
fabric
is
dried
to
approximately
20
%
residual
moisture.
With
this
humidity
the
fabric
is
stabilized
on
the
following
sanforizing
unit.
Then,
a
fabric
finished
in
this
way
comes
to
cutting
and
sewing
and
finally
to
laundring.

6. DBDENIM B O O K
Targets
of
Jeans
Washing
Besides
the
handle
and
softness
to
improve
the
wear
comfort
of
the
previously
very
stiff
fabric
the
improvement
of
the
optical
appearance
of
the
ready-­‐made
garment
is
the
most
important
target
of
jeans
washing.
Stone-­‐wash,
Moon-­‐
wash,
Used
Look
or
Rodeo-­‐wash,
to
name
a
few
fashion
trends,
require
considerable
know-­‐how
from
the
laundry
but
also
from
the
textile
auxiliary
supplier
as
its
partner.
The
avoidance
of
problems
like
Uneveness
Crease
marks,
streaks
and
spots
Reduced
tensile
and
tear
strength
Staining
on
white
parts
of
the
cloth
Poor
handle
Too
high
shrinkage
Rust
formation
on
metal
parts
(corrosion)
Poor
contrast
between
warp
and
weft
colour
changes
of
indigo-­‐dyed
textiles
caused
by
radicals
like
ozone
and
nitrogen
oxides
in
the
air
and
others
more
is
very
exacting
of
the
jeans
washing
to
obtain
high
quality
and
good
reproducibility.
Ecological
compatibility
is
the
latest
aim
of
jeans
laundering
which
nowadaysgains
greater
importance,
especially
in
regard
to
bleaching.
Hypochlorite-­‐free
bleaching
may
be
an
answer
for
it.
The
chapters
3
contain
details
about
the
required
processing
steps
which
are
necessary
to
achieve
the
requested
qualities.
Chapter
4
contains
suggestions
for
the
treatment
which
may
be
an
orientation
in
jeans
processing

7. DBDENIM B O O K
Main
Process
In
The
Laundry
• Pre-­‐treatment
• Stone
And
/
Or
Enzyme
Wash
• Effect
Adjustment
• Bleaching
• Colour
Adjustment
• Finishing
Handle
Adjustment
Pre-­‐Treatment
This
step
is
the
basic,
but
most
important
part
of
washing.
Related
to
the
final
target
We
have
to
take
the
correct
prevention
in
this
part.
This
process
has
3
main
targets;
removing
the
impurities
coming
from
the
fabric,
desizing
of
weaving
fabrics
and
Decreasing
the
crease
risk
on
the
garment
removing
the
impurities:
Either
from
the
cotton
or
from
the
manufacturing
period
garment
can
contain
some
impureties.
These
impurities
can
be
based
on
oil,
alkaline
or
acidic
chemicals
and
all
of
them
can
cause
several
problems
in
the
next
steps
of
washing.
In
this
step
a
professional
laundry
man
has
to
decide
about
the
risk
and
he
has
to
use
the
suitable
auxiliaries
to
remove
these
impurities.

8. DB
DENIM B O O K
DESIZING
All
of
the
weaved
fabrics
contains
size
on
them.
During
the
weaving
processes
there
can
be
two
main
problems;
one
is
breaking
of
the
yarn
because
of
high
friction
and
second
is
dust
formation.
Size
is
the
solution
of
these
problems,
because
sizes
are
making
a
floppy
film
on
surface
and
improves
the
tensile
strength
and
directly
causes
better
efficiency.
tensile
strength
and
directly
causes
better
efficiency
However,
this
size
becomes
a
problem
so
it
must
be
remove
in
washing.
There
are
several
types
of
size
are
available
in
the
market.
But
they
can
divided
in
two
groups-­‐water
soluble
sizes
(CMC
or
PVA
based
sizes)
and
dissolvable
sizes
in
water
(starch
based
Sizes)
Starch
based
sizes
still
are
used
widely
and
have
the
biggest
market
share
because
of
their
cheap
prices
and
easy
purchase
conditions.
There
are
4
methods
to
remove
the
size;
1.
Washing
With
High
Alcalines
2.
Washing
With
High
Acids
3.
Washing
With
Oxidative
Chemicals
4.
Enzymatic
Desizng
With
Alfa-­‐amylases
First
three
methods
are
difficult
,
risky
and
expensive
method
at
laundry
business
because
of
this
nearly
all
of
the
market
prefers
enzymatic
desizing.
The
liquor
to
goods
ratio
is
usually
between
5
:
1
and
8
:
1.
Depending
on
the
machine
and
jeans
quality
a
lower
machine
loading
may
be
required
if
the
washed
garment
shows
streaks.
Usually,
the
jeans
are
loaded
with
the
left
side
turned
outside.
Especially,
jeans
which
are
sensitive
to
formation
of
washing
marks,
e.g.goods
which
have
been
in
stock
for
a
long
time,
may
require
steaming
(topping)
or
turning
the
garments
inside
out
to
obtain
washing
results
without
streaks.

9. DBDENIM B O O K
Desizing
Recipe
0,5
-­‐
1
g/l
Denilase
TITAN
(amylase
enzyme)
0,5
-­‐
1
g/l
Deniwet
ZEN
(wetting
agent)
0,5
-­‐
1
g/l
Denispers
DISPER
(dispersing
agent)
Temp
:
55-­‐60
°C
pH
:
6,5
-­‐
7
Tıme
:
10
min
Drain
-­‐
Rinsing
-­‐
50-­‐60
°C
de
2
min
Drain
-­‐
Rinsing
20-­‐25
°C
de
2
min
Prevention
of
creases:
One
of
the
main
problems
in
laundry
business
is
creases.
We
can
separatecreases
into
4
groups
related
to
their
reasons;
Mechanic
based
creases:
these
are
the
creases
related
to
the
ratio
of
water,
loading
capacity
and
rotation
speed
of
drum.
Chemical
reaction
based
creases
:
These
are
the
creases
related
to
the
wetting
time
of
fabric
or
unevenness
auxiliary
applications
Fabric
based
creases:
These
are
the
creases
come
from
the
production
of
the
fabric

10. DB
DENIM B O O K
Wetting
Dispersing
Agent
Deniwet
ZEN
• Used
in
desizing
process.
• Must
rapidly
wet
out
jean.
• Prevents
white
lines
caused
by
rigid
creases.
• Permits
penetration
of
amylase
to
fully
desize.
• Prevents
back
staining
of
loose
indigo
onto
weft
yarns
and
pockets.
Also
used
in
stone
wash
/
after
washing
to
reduce
back
staining.

11. DBDENIM B O O K
Anti
Back-­‐Staining
Agent
Denispers
ABC
Conc
Denispers
DCD
Conc
Denispers
DISPER
• Re-­‐deposition
of
loose
indigo,
or
indigo
dyed
short
fibres,
removed
during
desizing,
stone-­‐washing
or
enzyme
washing.
• Re-­‐deposited
Indigo,
reduces
the
contrast
between
warp
and
undyed
weft
• Re-­‐deposited
indigo
stains
pockets
and
labels
• Re-­‐deposited
indigo
is
more
prone
to
Ozone
and
yellowing
Back-­‐staining
is
UNDESIREABLE
in
denim
washing

12. DB
DENIM B O O K
Antı-­‐Creasıng
Agent
Deniwet
CURVE
•
Prevents
crease
formation
during
the
•
Washing
procsess.
•
Increases
the
loading
capacity
of
the
•
Washing
machine
•
Reduses
the
stone
spots
risk
during
the
•
Stone
wash
procsess

13. DB
DENIM BOOK
Head
Office
:
Kazimiye
Mah.
Karadeniz
Cad.
Kiliçoğlu
Al@n
Evler
No:
37/5/21
Çorlu
/
Tekirdağ
/
TURKEY
Ph:
90
282
673
62
40
Fax
:
90
282
673
59
75
eyup@denimist.com.tr
Factory
:
Motor
Yerleri
Mevkii
E-­‐5
Uzeri
Ulaş
/
Corlu
/
Tekirdag
/
TURKEY
mustafa@denimist.com.tr
Pakistan
:
Plot
No:
2/C
Lane
No:
3
Itehad
Coom
Phase
–
VI
D.H.A
Karachi
/
PAKISTAN
Ph:
92-­‐21-­‐37820980
–
35348720
Cell
:
92-­‐300-­‐214430
tanveer@denimist.com.tr
Bangladesh
:
Road
36
,
House
15,
F4,
Gulshan
2,
Dhaka
/BANGLADESH
Cell:
8801741393879
serkan@denimist.com.tr