Redefining education for happiness: Bhutan's GNH-focused schools

r e d e fining education

The Global Schoolhouse

S chooling for
H appiness
Bhutan’s Big Dream By Kent Bicknell

56 I n d e p e n d e n t S c h o o l

“If a country has a big dream, the education
system of that country must support and
advance that dream.”
— Thakur S. Powdyel, Bhutan’s Minister of Education

I
n December 2009, I traveled to the Himalayan
kingdom of Bhutan for a weeklong workshop,
“Educating for Gross National Happiness.” At
the invitation of the royal government, interna-
tional participants joined with local teachers,
principals, and students to discover ways that Bhuta-
nese schools could better support the country’s com-
mitment to Gross National Happiness (GNH). Since
the 1970s, Bhutan has sought to measure its growth
through standards based on GNH rather than the
Gross National Product index that most other coun-
tries rely on. Our task was to find ways in which the
educational system could enhance the material and
spiritual health of current and future generations —
and I was honored to represent U.S. independent
schools in this undertaking.1

S p r i n g 2 0 1 2 57


In the last leg of my journey, I left
the haze of New Delhi, flew past Mount
Everest, and swooped down into the
Paro Valley of Bhutan, landing at what
has to be one of the most beautiful
and tranquil airports in the world, and
the only one in the country. Through
my familiarity with India, I expected
I would “know” Bhutan (the square
mile equivalent of New Hampshire
and Vermont combined, with a popu-
lation of 700,000), but I did not. The
city of Paro seemed to have hardly any
people; the air was sparkling; there was
little traffic; nobody was rushing to and
fro; and at night the sky was filled with
stars. I had arrived in a land, I would
learn, where time cycles through the
seasons — 80 percent of the country
still farms — and where a Buddhist
perspective prevails, from the architec- Roy, and Zenobia Barlow and to work thing good, wholesome, positive, and
ture of the airport to the Dzongs (for- side-by-side with Bhutanese counter- healthy.” He continued, “At the end
tress monasteries) that double as seats parts, including Prime Minister Jigmi of the day, these different dimensions
of government. In Bhutan, smoking is Y. Thinley, and the Bhutan Minister of greenery are the elements of a life:
prohibited — everywhere! When His (Lyonpo) of Education Thakur S. Pow- natural or environmental greenery,
Majesty the 4th Dragon King, Jigme dyel. The enthusiasm generated was intellectual greenery, academic green-
Singye Wangchuck, informed his sub- such that, before we all dispersed, the ery, social, cultural, spiritual, aesthetic,
jects in 1999 that television and the ministry of education announced plans and moral greenery — all these together
make us who we are. If we are able to
Always keep clean and green. Smile and let address these in the school system, it
will be a more satisfying combination of
smile. Strive for excellence. Take pride in being experiences for children so they may be
more integrated as human beings. They
Bhutanese. Act with humility. may be much happier and more reflec-
tive, and so be more sensitive. Today
Internet would be allowed in Bhutan, to host GNH workshops for all school the world lacks sensitivity — towards
he also outlawed the use of plastic bags principals in the country. each other, towards the environment,
because they are nonsustainable. I returned to Sant Bani School towards Mother Nature, towards all the
Bhutan’s commitment to the well- (New Hampshire), where I have been elements that sustain our life.”
being of its people is built on four head of school since 1973, but stayed in
pillars: (1) economic development, sus- close contact with the minister of edu- Happiness in Action
tainable over generations; (2) conserva- cation, Lyonpo Thakur. He informed Curious to see how the ideas in
tion of the environment; (3) good gov- me that the follow-up sessions with the workshops were manifesting, I
ernance that is transparent (the Fourth Bhutan’s principals were quite suc- returned to Bhutan in March 2011 as
King introduced democracy and Bhu- cessful. They offered the principals a guest of the Ministry of Education.
tanese now vote for a parliament); and a welcome time to reflect and trade Lyonpo Thakur had graciously paved
(4) preservation of cultural values.2 We stories about what was (and was not) the way for me to visit a number of
focused on these during the “Educating working. After sharing their own best schools in the capital city, Thimphu
for GNH” workshop, and by the end of practices and hearing the ideas gener- (population just shy of 100,000). When
the week we had mapped out a number ated in the December workshop, the I landed in Paro, Madame Phuntsho
of ways to fold GNH principles into a principals pledged to create “Green Lham, a ministry official, worked
K–12 curriculum (see sidebar on page Schools for Green Bhutan,” a promise closely with me to coordinate all aspects
59). It was exciting to be surrounded by subsequently adopted by all 20 dis- of my visit. She had arranged a brief
environmental and educational lumi- tricts of the country. meeting with the minister late that first
naries like Vandana Shiva, Mark Man- As Lyonpo Thakur explained to afternoon, as he had to travel outside
call, Satish Kumar, David Orr, Bunker me, to be green encompasses “every- the city for the next five days.


that His Majesty the 4th King, Jigme even if the class has more than 40
E ducating for Singye Wangchuck, had the vision for students.
Bhutan. It is not enough simply to live Back in Madame Tshewang’s office,
G ross N ational day-to-day, earning our daily bread. I noticed Zilukha’s mission, vision,
H appiness There is more to life, more to societies, and core beliefs posted on the wall. I
more to nations than simply surviv- asked her if each school developed its
“Educating for GNH” recognizes that: ing as an economic animal. “At pres- own, and she assured me they did.
ent,” Lyonpo Thakur added, “we have Zilukha’s core beliefs are: Always keep
• Collaboration amongst diverse groups
people who demand more; we have clean and green. Smile and let smile.
is critical for building a sustainable
made people much more degree- and Strive for excellence. Take pride in being
future.
diploma-conscious, but less character- Bhutanese. Act with humility.
• Students should be key players in these conscious, less morality-conscious, Next stop was one of the elite high
groups. less sensitive. And it is this kind of schools in the country, Yangchenphug
insensitivity that brings no respect Higher Secondary School (YHSS).
• Transparency in governance begins
for the environment, no respect for Over tea, Principal Madame Pema
with the active involvement of students
each other, no respect for the earth, Wangdi and her administrative staff
and families in the organization of the
no respect for and appreciation of the presented a snapshot of YHSS, fol-
school.
good things of life…. We hope that edu- lowed by a tour. Given the exuberant
• Sustainability needs to radiate out from cating for GNH will address the varied sense of the joy of learning combined
the campus to the community at large to dimensions of our life.” with seriousness of purpose, I felt at
ensure broad ecoliteracy. That evening I returned to my cozy home in this large government school
room in the Wangchuk Hotel in down- (more than 1,000 students). I saw
• A healthy community-service program
town Thimphu, eager to visit the first labs, classrooms, the lovely library at
strengthens all.
school on my list. the heart of the school, a large audi-
• Elders and indigenous peoples are Zilukha Lower Secondary School torium, and, on the top floor of the
storehouses of a wisdom that must be (Pre-K–8) is terraced into a steep hill main building, a Buddhist temple with
preserved. on the outskirts of Thimphu. The week a resident Rinpoche (revered monk).
before my visit, a fire had burned the Rohit Adhikari, a recent graduate of
• Education is about the heart and spirit,
fields around the school, stopping just YHSS who had participated in the
as well as the mind and body.
shy of the buildings. The blackened 2009 workshop, joined me on the
• Practices that teach us to pause and earth did nothing to darken the enthu- tour so I could have an insider’s view.
reflect are a critical component of edu- siasm of opening days (the academic He informed me that the beloved
cation, and these come in a variety of year in Bhutan begins in late Febru- Rinpoche had been in residence since
forms, including the arts, contemplation, ary). I observed democracy in action as the school’s founding in 1965 — and
journaling, and critical thinking. the 850 students eagerly used official all were sad that he was retiring at the
government voting machines to elect end of the year.
the coming year’s “team captains,” On March 8, I visited Lungtenzampa
responsible for organizing much of Middle Secondary School. Principal
The minister, noting that our time the social and co-curricular life of Madame Kinley Pem and I conversed at
was too short, kindly invited me to the school. While several hundred length while we toured the campus. At
come for dinner that evening. I was students sat in the courtyard waiting one point, she left me alone with a 10th
thrilled to visit his home in the min- to vote, an array of teachers, alumni, grade class, and we covered a variety
isters’ enclave, and to dine with the and students (including a third grader of topics. The students were open and
minister, his wife, and my guide and with the voice of an angel) entertained engaging, and clearly had embraced a
friend, Madame Karma Wangmo. the group with songs and stories. number of GNH values, from “green
Over tea, we had a lengthy discussion Principal Madame Tshewang Peldon schools for a green Bhutan,” to pride in
about education, particularly around invited me to address the students, their campus and program, to the value
infusing GNH principles into schools. which I did briefly.3 As we toured the of walking to school, to the power of
Lyonpo Thakur explained, “If a country terraced campus, Madame Tshewang saying “no” to any kind of bullying, teas-
has a big dream, the education system was happy to point out that a facilities ing, or name-calling. My dialogue with
of that country must support and upgrade had begun. At present, some this class suggested a culture that nur-
advance that dream. And it is impor- of the lower grades have close to 60 tures students while encouraging them
tant for nations to have big dreams. students per class, although below to find their own voices. Individual class
Just as we as individuals must have fourth grade there are two teachers vegetable and flower gardens were just
dreams, so also nations and societies per group. For fourth grade and above, that: individually designed and main-
must have their dreams.” He noted there is only one teacher per group, tained by each class. Toward the end of

S p r i n g 2 0 1 2 59


my visit, Madame Kinley invited me to dotted the schoolyard, all nourished Sant Bani School. At the ELC, learn-
partake of a delicious vegetarian lunch by compost generated at Jigme Losel. ing is an adventure in which students
in her home, perched on a hill just Student-made posters encouraging the and teachers journey together. Class
above the main buildings. As I walked value of recycling, healthy habits, the size is small (20 or less), and the evi-
through her gardens amid a bevy of kind treatment of others, and celebrat- dence of collaboration is present in
welcoming dogs, I sensed the trappings ing International Women’s Day were every nook of the student-art-covered
of a traditional New England boarding omnipresent, as were individual reflec- walls. ELC is involved in the world-
school. However, on the verandah I tions on topics such as “Why I come wide Design for Change movement5
turned and saw, high on a hill, the huge to school” and “Reading is a basic tool that encourages children to tackle and

“The world is moved
along, not only by the
mighty shoves of its
heroes, but also by
the aggregate of tiny
pushes of each honest
worker.”

statue of the Buddha that overlooks the in the living of a good life.” The school solve real-world issues. The approach
sprawling city.4 prides itself on its Five R approach to is based on four steps in which the
As I navigated through the recess waste management: Reduce, Replace, students are asked to feel, imagine, do,
traffic patterns of the lively students at Refuse (take less), Recycle, Reuse. and share. ELC is a greenhouse for
Jigme Losel Primary School, I paused As the hour for lunch approached, a student-led projects that have reached
before a wooden sign planted in one number of parent volunteers helped far beyond their campus, including
of the gardens. It contained a quote by arrange tables of colorful woven bas- the student-designed plan to gener-
Helen Keller that gave new light to what kets, each containing healthy lunches ate zero waste through substituting
I was witnessing: “I long to accomplish wrapped in eco-friendly material. indigenous treats for the prevailing
great and noble tasks, but it is my chief The principal, Madame Choki packaged snacks in plastic wrappers.
duty to accomplish humble tasks as Dukpa, was thrilled to share these Students first cleaned up their own
though they were great and noble. The facets of the vibrant life of Jigme Losel campus, and then spread the word
world is moved along, not only by the with me. through appearances on national TV
mighty shoves of its heroes, but also Shortly after I arrived in Thim- and presentations that have reached
by the aggregate of tiny pushes of each phu, I attended an education zomdue more than 80 other schools.6 As head
honest worker.” (informal gathering), where a diverse of an independent school, a rarity in
Here, in the midst of a govern- group of teachers, monks, officials, Bhutan, Madame Deki was excited to
ment school serving 857 students principals, students, and an author attend all of the GNH-in-education
in a non-affluent part of the Dragon engaged in an animated conversa- workshops and feels much support
Kingdom’s major city, Thimphu, I saw tion about various topics across the from the ministry of education.
many opportunities for “tiny pushes.” educational spectrum. There I met Two days before departing, I visited
Here was a green school in action. Madame Deki Choden, Barnard Col- Motithang Higher Secondary School,
Students used recycled plastic jugs lege graduate and founder of the one of the top high schools in the coun-
for hand washing (“tippy-taps”), and Early Learning Center (ELC), who try in terms of scores on the national
dustpans made from used contain- encouraged me to add her school to exams. There is no doubt that the
ers. Compact class gardens, recently my itinerary. I am happy I did, as her soft-spoken principal, Madame Karma
planted with flowers and vegetables, approach is so in synch with that of Zangmo, is a dynamic leader whom



any school would be thrilled to have. path never imagined in the educational green at home, the dangers of excess
Rather than a whirlwind tour of the paradigm of Bhutan a decade ago. As dieting, reviews of Bhutanese bands,
campus, she arranged for me to meet they began to find the power of the col- and a self-administered “stress test.” At
with a handful of students and faculty. lective voice, their ideas were heard, and the end of our discussion, they said that
The conversation was lively, as the stu- MHSS subsequently made alterations what we had shared was of such value
dents and I bounced from topic to topic. in the schedule to allow for more flexible I should come back and address the
They eagerly shared differences in the programming. With pride the students entire student body — all 1,255 of them.
school since it began to focus on GNH gave me a copy of the new Motithang On my last full day in Bhutan, I did
principles in the classroom. Through HSS magazine by and for students, just that. I stood before the assembled
the student council and other vehicles Teen Generation 2010, filled with their students and faculty, and spoke of
they brought new ideas to faculty, a own writing. Topics included how to be how much we have in common; that
education is a question of heart con-
necting to heart as much as minds

F
or thirty years, California’s independent schools have being opened. I shared my long-time
connection with the spiritual teachings
turned to us for all their education law needs. Members of Asia, and mentioned that a famous
American from the 1850s, Henry
of the firm have first-hand experience and in-depth under- David Thoreau, was passionate about
standing of the specific demands of independent schools the wisdom to be found in texts like
The Bhagavad Gita and the words of
and the legal challenges they face today. the Buddha, and that Mahatma Gan-
dhi was then inspired by Thoreau. The
 labor and employment  wage and hour students, each in uniform and sitting
 contracts  leaves cross-legged on the ground, listened
intently for half an hour. It was most
 governance  litigation rewarding to watch ripples of laughter
 student issues  business and facilities flow through the crowd as I shared
humorous stories.7
 handbooks  management training
Humanizing Our Educational
System
As my second visit to Bhutan drew to a
close, I savored Lyonpo Thakur’s invita-
tion to come back and spend six months
in schools all over the country. GNH
has skeptics in Bhutan, particularly
when it moves beyond broad concepts
to address systemic issues. Were the
schools I visited a fair sampling from
which to draw general conclusions
about the state of education in Bhutan?
Probably not; but they bear witness to a
strong effort to humanize a traditional
education system. The dream is there,
and the rest of the world ought to take
note of these noble aspirations.
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It is not clear to me whether we
have had a “big dream” since President
Kennedy challenged us to land on the
moon. If America were to be guided
by RFK’s vision, how might our educa-
tion system “promote and advance that
dream?” Perhaps some answers lie in
the large heart and mindful approach
of the Dragon Kingdom of Bhutan.

Kent Bicknell is the head of Sant Bani School (New
Hampshire).

Notes
1. A primary organizer of the conference was
Dr. Ron Colman of Nova Scotia’s Genuine
Progress Index (GPI). For more information,
see www.gnhc.gov.bt and www.sji.bt.
2. Bhutan’s efforts to “preserve the culture”
resulted in a number of challenges to its
efforts to achieve GNH. As many have
noted, acts intended to include people of
Bhutanese origin led to the exclusion of
many who had lived in the country for
years (in some cases, generations). This
two-decade-long problem is still in a state of
flux, and is an enormously important topic
beyond the scope of this article.
3. All of the government schools are
English medium, so I had no problem
communicating with anyone in the country.
4. This enormous statue of the Buddha is still
under construction. It is new since 2009, and
it can be seen from almost all parts of the city.
5. Created by artist/designer Kiran Bir Sethi at
the Riverside School in Ahmedabad, India,
founded in 2001. See www.schoolriverside.com.
6. See www.youtube.com/
watch?v=X4TDKYRaFOI.
7. The full text of my address at Motithang
HSS is available at www.santbanischool.org.

S p r i n g 2 0 1 2 63

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