2. What is finishing…??????
• Finishing is a final process given to a textile
material to-
– Give a good appearance
– Desirable feel
– Impart certain durable properties
• Stiffness
• Softness
• Wash and wear finish
• Water repelling finish
• Fire proof finish etc.
3. Classification of finishing
• Classification according to the nature of finish
According to the nature of Finish
Physical or Mechanical Finish
1) Calendering
2) Sanforizing etc.
Chemical Finish
1) Mercerization
2) Easy care finish etc.
4. • Physical or Mechanical Finish
– Mechanical / Physical finishes involve specific
physical treatment to a fabric surface to cause a
change in the fabric appearance.
– Also known as dry finish
» Compacting (Shrink proofing)
» Calendering
» Raising (Napping, Sueding)
» Shearing
» Polishing
» Decating
• Chemical Finish
– Chemicals are used followed by curing or drying.
– Also known as wet finish.
5. Classification of finishing
• Classification according to performance
According to Performance
Aesthetic Finish– Improved /
Altered Appearance
1. Calendering
2. Fulling
3. Mercerization
4. Napping and sueding
5. Shearing
Functional Finish– Improved /
Altered Performance
1. Antistatic
2. Crease resistant
3. Flame resistant
4. Shrinkage control
5. Soil release
6. Water and stain repellent
7. Waterproof
6. • Aesthetic Finish
– These finishes modify the appearance and / or
hand or drape of fabrics.
• Functional Finish
– These finishes improve the performance
properties of fabrics.
7. COMPACTING – SHRINK PROOFING
• Controlled residual shrinkage is an important
quality parameter for many fabrics. For
example, excessive shrinkage is undesirable
for fabrics to be made into garments.
• Here, the residual shrinkage should be less
than 2% otherwise the garment will not fit
after it is laundered.
9. Sanforizing
• Sanforizing is used to describe shrink proofing
processes.
• The process, consists of a range where the
fabric is first moistened with steam, to make it
more pliable, run through a short tenter frame
(pup tenter) to straighten and smooth out
wrinkles through the compressive shrinkage
head and then through a Palmer drying unit to
set the fabric.
12. Decating
• This process is mainly carried out on wool by
exploiting its elastic properties in hot and wet
conditions by the direct action of the steam on the
fabric.
• It involves the application of heat and pressure to set
or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set
and grain of certain fabrics. When applied to double
knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage .
13. CALENDERING
• Calendering is a process where fabric is
compressed by passing it between two or
more rolls under controlled conditions of
time, temperature and pressure.
• Produces different types of surface
appearance
1. Simple calendering
2. Glazed calendering
3. Embossed calendering
4. Schreiner calendering
14. Objects of Calendering
• To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky
touch to the fabric.
• To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness.
• To reduce the air permeability by closing the threads.
• To increase the luster.
• To reduce the yarn slippage.
• Surface patterning by embossing.
15. 1. SIMPLE CALENDERING
• It is a high speed, high pressure pressing of fabric (100 yds / min)
• The high pressure flattens the yarn
– Smoothen the fabric
– Increases fabric lustre (fabric cover increases and more light is
reflected)
– Used for woven plain or twill weaves
• Over-calendering however is to be avoided
– Yarns weakened out due to very high pressure
• It is a temporary finish
– Yarns return to its natural cross section after first laundering
17. 2. GLAZED CALENDERING
• It is a calendering finish to produce highly glazed / shined
polished cotton.
• The calender machine used is a friction calender,
– One cylinder of highly polished steel cylinder rotating at
speed much higher than the fabric passing through it.
• Fabrics are first treated with starches or resins before
calendering
– The spaces between the yarns are thus filled up and
glazed appearance is obtained.
18. 3. Embossed calendering
• It is a calendering in which a three-dimensional
design is created on a fabric
• This is done on a special embossing calender in
which the roller cylinder is engraved with the
embossing design
• The pattern is then pushed or shaped into the cloth
when the fabric passes between the rollers
• Some embossed fabrics are made to imitate more
costly woven jacquard or dobby designs
19. • Embossed patterns of fabrics treated with
resins and cured after embossing are durable.
• Embossing of fabrics of thermoplastic fibres
are permanent because the heated metal roll
heat-sets the design.
20.
21. 4. Schreiner calendering
• Schreiner calendering produces a low, soft-key lustre on the fabric
surface.
• To produce this effect, one of the steel cylinders of the calender is
embossed with fine diagonal lines. These embossing are barely visible in
naked eye.
• Widely used on cotton & cotton/polyester sateen.
• Schreiner calendering may be permanent, durable or temporary finish
– Is permanent if the fibre is thermoplastic.
– Is durable if the fabric is resin treated but not cured.
– Is temporary if the fibre is non-thermoplastic and not treated with
resin.
22. Fulling
• Fulling is a permanent finish.
• Used in wool fabrics.
• Gradual or progressive felting of wool.
• Done by carefully and controlled scouring or
laundering.
• The resultant fulled fabric is more compact and
more smoother.
• Woolens are frequently heavily fulled.
• Fabrics of worsted are usually very lightly
fulled.
23.
24. Napping
• It is a mechanical finish.
• Fibres being raised from woven/knitted fabrics by rotating,
bristled, wire covered brushes.
• Overall effect is a raised fibres from fabric surface.
• Example: cotton flannel, rayon flannel, woolen.
• Napped fabrics have softer handle.
• Better insulation properties due to more air entrapment.
– Mainly used as blankets, winter clothing
26. • Problems are-
– Subject to pilling.
– Rapid wear at abrasive points (like sleeve ends,
elbows, button holes etc.)
– Not recommended for hard wear.
27. Antistatic finish
• Synthetic fibres of hydrophobic nature are prone to
generation of static charges.
• This problem is very troublesome while processing the fabric
at high speed in dry state.
• Antistatic agents absorb small amount of moisture from the
atmosphere, thus reducing the dryness of the fabric.
• Antistatic finishes are semi-durable
– Washes out at several launderings or dry cleanings.
28. Water Repellent Finish
• Water repellent are chemical finish.
• Resist the penetration of water into or through
the fabric.
• Permits the passage of moisture or air through
the fabric.
• Methods
– The yarns are coated with water repellent material
like wax
– The water repellent do not permit the water drop to
spread and penetrate
– Could be of durable and non-durable types
29. • Non-durable repellents are easily removed in
laundering or dry cleaning.
• Durable repellent finish can be either
repellent to water or oil or both.
• Fluro carbon compounds have excellent
durability to both dry cleaning and laundering.
30. Water Proof Finish
• A water-proof fabric, unlike a water repellent fabric, is
completely moisture proofed.
• The fabric is coated or laminated with a film of natural
or synthetic rubber or plastic, such as vinyl or
polyurethane.
• Water proof fabrics are uncomfortable.
• Water proof fabric possesses a rather firm, non-
drapable hand.
31. Washes
• Alters the look by different washing procedures.
• Mainly used for denim and similar items to have a faded and
worn appearance.
• Have different methods
– Stone washing
– Acid washing
– Enzyme washing
