2. To ensure the safety of all dogs are in the care of professional
dog walkers.
To help dog walkers run ethical, honest and responsible
businesses.
To encourage our students to learn as much as they can about
dog behavior.
To ensure dogs are treated humanely.
To discourage the use of outdated training techniques and
punishment training.
To encourage respect and community between professional
walkers and the public.
To make dog walking enjoyable for dogs and humans alike!
OUR MISSION
3. Lecture Topics
SF Professional Dog Walking Laws and Regulations
Vehicle Safety and Transportation
Appropriate Walking Equipment
Learning Theory
Key Training Terms for Dog Walking
Canine Body Language and Communication
Dog Fights
Pack Dynamics and Park Etiquette
Client Communication Examples
Business Coaching with Veronica Boutelle
Reference and Resource Index
WELCOME TO TOP DOG SF!
4. What You
Need to Know
as a
Professional
Dog Walker
SAN FRANCISCO LAWS
AND REGULATIONS
5. No more than 8 dogs per pack
One leash per dog (less than 8’ long)
Dog Tags (rabies & phone #)
Carry a phone
Poop bags (and pick up poop)
First Aid Kit in car
Safe vehicle with water and a non-skid surface
Educational requirement (check!)
SF Business license
Drinking water
Dog Walking Permit if walking more than 4 dogs at a time
1 million dollar liability insurance
Knowing which SF areas and parks are on/off leash
THE LAW:
CCSF HEALTH CODE SECTION 3900
6. Keep the dogs safe- know the behaviors of the dogs in your care
Be aware - keep eyes and ears open
Be defensive
Pet First Aid Certified and first aid kit with muzzle available
Continuing education
Network (without standing around chatting!)
Exercise the dogs
Be nice, polite and professional
AAA or other road side assistance
Program your phone with emergency numbers
ACC, emergency vets, SF Park and Rec Police, your client’s numbers and other walker’s numbers
Understand the environment
Hazards: cliffs, poison oak, horses, other dogs
THE OTHER IMPORTANT STUFF
7. Getting both
you and the
dogs from
Point A to B
safely
VEHICLE SAFETY AND
TRANSPORTATION
8. There are pros and cons to all of them!!!!
WHAT TYPE OF VEHICLE?
11. Be driven by a person with a valid CA license
Be registered and insured
Have a non skid surface
Be well ventilated
Be enclosed (camper shell on trucks)
Have screens on camper shell windows
Have a barrier allowing separation of dogs and driver
Contain first aid kit with emergency muzzle
Contain ample drinking water and bowls
Be safe and roadworthy!
ALL VEHICLES MUST:
12. Contain some (at least 1) secured crates
Be cleaned regularly
Have cleaning supplies available
Contain a first aid kit for humans and dogs
Have ample supply of poop bags
Have a phone charger
Have a supply of basic tools (jack, cables) or
roadside assistance
Emergency hide a key or AAA
VEHICLES SHOULD:
16. Choke chains
Prong collars
E collars
Electronic leash
Citronella Collar
Nylon Muzzles
Useful for emergencies only
THE UGLY – AND THE SIDE EFFECTS
17. How many
times do I
have to tell
you Chance?!
There are
always treats
in the Kong!
REWARDS
19. Low Value Treats
Dry Biscuits
Kibble
High Value Treats
Baby Food
Hot Dogs
Cheese
Leftovers
Dehydrated Chicken Hearts and other gross things dogs love
THE HIERARCHY OF DOG TREATS
22. Think leverage, not dominance.
The wolf dominance study this theory is based from has been
admittedly incorrect by the researchers themselves over the
misuse of canine social interactions and the justification for
the use of force based methods.
Social hierarchy is contextual and inf lux constantly. It is not
about temperament.
Letting go of this concept can help you understand what the
dog is doing and not doing and how to do your walks safely
and to have fun.
RECONSIDER THE DOMINANCE
MODEL IN TRAINING
24. DOGS LEARN IN TWO WAYS
By “Association”
or Classical Conditioning
Especially helpful to understand when dealing with phobias/ fear/
aggression.
By “Consequence”
Operant Conditioning
Future probability of behavior is affected by its consequences
Quadrants and learning theory
26. A reinforcer, whether negative or positive, causes the behavior
to be more likely to occur.
When two events occur in succession, animals learn to
anticipate the second one. This is involuntary and does not
require a consequence, only the two events.
Dogs learn by association. They learn anything that predicts
something safe or dangerous for them, and/ or something
pleasant or unpleasant.
Classical conditioning is involuntary and does not require a
consequence. I.e.; if a dog is upset.
DEFINITION OF CLASSICAL
CONDITIONING
28. OPERANT CONDITIONING AND TRAINING
Operant conditioning,
theorized by psychologist
B.F. Skinner, is the basis
for all science based animal
training.
Animals seek reinforcement
and avoid punishments.
Dogs learn through
consequence.
“Dogs do what works.”
B.F. Skinner. March 20, 1904- August 18, 1990
31. POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT
(R+)
A stimulus is provided contingent on the behavior which
leads to an increase in that behavior.
Animals will work to attain a reward by choosing a behavior
that results in something essential or enjoyable.
32. POSITIVE PUNISHMENT
(P+)
A stimulus is
provided contingent
on the behavior
which leads to a
decrease in future
behavior.
An animal will work
to avoid a
punishment.
An animal is likely
to do a behavior
resulting in
something painful,
threatening or
unpleasant.
33. NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT
(R-)
A stimulus is removed
contingent on the
behavior which leads to
an increase in behavior
in the future.
Animals will work to
attain relief.
An animal is more likely
to chose a behavior
that avoids something
painful or unpleasant.
www.coolcartooning.com
34. NEGATIVE PUNISHMENT-
PERSEVERANCE! (P-)
The removal of reinforcement or the opportunity to earn
reinforcement. The dog is likely to chose a behavior to avoid a
penalty or loss of access to something essential or enjoyable.
Dog behavior examples for this would be:
- Barking
- Jumpy, mouthy, rudeness
- Impulse control
- Dog to dog bullying
Human behavior examples are:
- A parking ticket
- Losing yardage in a football game
- Penalty box in a hockey game
36. REWARDS AND REINFORCEMENTS
Pay attention to what you
reward and reinforce! You will
get more of it!
Use life rewards: opening door
for a walk, throwing a ball, free
play with dog pals.
Behaviors that are ignored will
decrease.
Remove rewards for behavior
you don’t like.
Be consistent.
38. HOW DOGS SEE THE WORLD
What is safe/good for
me (Classical
Conditioning).
What works and what
doesn’t work (Operant
Conditioning).
39. It is important to recognize what you can and can not do in a
pack. If training is needed, it is best to refer out to a
professional for the well being of the individual dog, your
pack, and the enjoyment of your job.
Dogs change and mature over time (especially when they hit
sexual maturity at the age of 2) and sometimes those dogs are
not a great fit for off leash walks anymore.
WHEN IT IS TOO MUCH
40. SUMMARY
Dogs learn by association (CC) and
consequence (OC).
Dogs see the world as “what is
safe/good for me” and what works
and what does not.
Operant conditioning is the learning
theory that is the basis for animal
training.
By manipulating consequences, we
can shape the animal’s behavior.
CLICKER TRAINING DEMO! Using
a clicker as a conditioned
reinforcer.
42. Extinction occurs when a behavior that has been previously
reinforced is no longer reinforced. The result is that the
behavior no longer occurs.
Extinction burst! An increase in intensity, duration or
frequency of a behavior that is not reinforced during
extinction.
Spontaneous recovery occurs when a behavior reappears
following extinction
WHAT TO EXPECT WITH R+ AND R-
43. Flooding – sink or swim
in dog walking!
Habituation- animals
learn to react to stimuli
when they are minor,
occur regularly and
never predict anything
important.
Sensitization- The
animals reaction
becomes stronger
rather than weaker
TRAINING CONCEPTS SPECIFIC
FOR DOG WALKERS
44. 44
YOU ARE YOUR
DOG’S LIFE
GUARD.
Don’t throw him in the
deep end to sink or
swim. If his ears flip
back and his tail drops,
come to his aid!
He needs to trust that
you are his safety net.
If he is uncomfortable,
move to the “shallow
end of the pool” – a
quiet part of the park,
away from the crowd.
If he’s not having fun,
don’t make him stay. If
you don’t like roller
coasters, I won’t make
you ride one!
45. A dog has only seen dogs from the inside of a fence,
a window, or while straining at the end of a leash.
The result: barrier frustration and high arousal at the
sight of dogs.
Seeing dogs has become paired with feeling upset –
so they become upset every time they see a dog.
A dog is reactive on leash, but not off.
A dog is a fence fighter.
A dog barks and lunges when driving in the car but fine
outside when it greats the stimulus.
BARRIER FRUSTRATION
46. A schedule of
reinforcement is a
program or rule that
determines how and
when a response will be
followed by a reward.
Shoot for every 6 seconds
to be effective
Discrete- rewarded for
responding correctly
Free- buffet style,
whenever he chooses
RATE OF REINFORCEMENT
47. 5 RULES OF RECALL
1 Never call your dog for something he won’t like.
2 Never call your dog if you don’t think he will come.
3 If you make a mistake in the last step, go and “save” the
recall.
4 Never repeat the command. Say it only once and then
make yourself interesting/ exciting with a high voice,
clapping, running, getting down to the ground, etc.
5 Always give the dog a HUGE pay off when he comes- lots
of treats, praise, etc.
48. 48
A TRULY SAFE DOG PARK DOG
KEEPS TRACK OF ITS WALKER& COMES WHEN CALLED
Joyfully comes on the first time!
49. An animal is
motivated to engage
in a particular
behavior because
someone else is
doing it
Barking
Digging
Fears and phobias
are often
transmitted through
social facilitation
“We thought
adopting a 2nd dog
would help the first,
now they are both
bad.”
SOCIAL FACILITATION
50. Refers to a process where one
animal is busy engaging in a
behavior, which attracts the
attention of another animal
who moves closet to the first
animal.
By proximity, the second
animal stumbles upon the
same stimulus and develops
the same behavior.
For example, the rest of the
pack teaches the new dog
recall and rewards, how to be
off leash
Or the older dog demonstrates
housetraining to the puppy
STIMULUS OR LOCAL ENHANCEMENT
51. SUDDEN ENVIRONMENT CHANGE
Or, SEC is when a stimulus emerges and startles the dogs.
Resulting in spooky, or guard dog barking that “sets off the
alarm” for the other’s to follow with.
Hard to counter act since usually unpredictable and very
rewarding for the pack (if off leash) charge up and bark at.
Import to install a very strong recall/ emergency recall for
your dogs’ safety.
52. 52
SCAN FOR SAFETY CONSTANTLY
Watch and listen.
Are these dogs
your dogs should
play with?
If you note a
bully on the
playground=
AVOID
54. Set the tone for the walks from the beginning. Teach “wait.”
Wait at the door/ wait at the truck bed/ wait to exit the crate.
What quadrant is this???
P-
Say “wait,” begin opening the door, if the dog waits, great, go
ahead and open the door more. If he breaks, quickly close the
door. Repeat this until he hesitates brief ly before opening
the door further. When he hesitates, say “OK.” Give the
command only once and REPEAT!
IMPULSE CONTROL
55. “Wait” for dog’s safety when exiting
“Sit” to ask please for things the dog wants
“Stay” for focus with the group on the hike
“Loose Leash Walking” to not get dragged
“Let’s Go” to create distance
“Touch/ Hand Targeting” for distraction
“Find it” for a job
“Recall” for safety
HANDY GO TO TRAINING TIPS
58. It would be great if humans could speak
dog!
Speaking Dog
59. Why Learn Their Language?
Since humans can’t speak dog we must instead
learn to understand it.
Recognize signs of resource guarding, stress
signals, arousal levels and predation.
Know when you are handling a dog too much and
about to get bit.
Because the best way to break up a fight is
prevention.
61. Dogs Communicate 3 Ways
1. Smell (number one for dog-dog
interaction)
2. Vocally (least used)
3. Body Language (ritualized, and what
we can observe)
62. • Body language
interpretation is critical to
provide a safe, enjoyable
outing for your dogs.
• Express interest to play,
resolve conflict, increase
or decrease distance.
• Important to read the
ENTIRE DOG.
• Read the dog in context.
• Read the other dogs.
• Understand stress signals
not just between dogs but
also people and the
environment.
CANINE BODY LANGUAGE IS
USED TO:
63. The Four Types of Body
Language Signals
1. Calming or Cut Off Signals
2. Fear Signals
3. Warning Signals
4. Play Signals
64. Calming/ Appeasement/
Cut Off Signals
• Lip licking
• Yawning
• Head turns to break eye contact
• Scratching
• Sniffing the ground
• Moving slowly or pausing
• Adrenaline Shake
• Blinking
• Submissive urinating
• Rolling over
• Lying down
66. Dropping into a sudden down or sit in the
middle of a play session is a clear cut-off signal
- Tight, locked lips, hair on back aroused
67. Submissive, stressed
look-away with lip lick.
C-curve look-away
Turning head away from threat
Head lowered, ears back and low on skull,
“I am no threat.” “I’m uncomfortable.”
“I need space.”
68. CHIN UP, LOOK AWAY. EXPRESSION OF
DISMISSAL, LACK OF INTEREST
The human version.The canine version.
69. Fear Signals
• Ears held back
• Head drooped
• Weight held on back legs
• Crouching
• Hair from shoulder to tail raised
• Growling
• Snarling/ lip curl
• Snapping
• Bearing teeth
• Tail tucked under body
74. Warning Signals
• Ears forward
• Stiff Posture
• Tail held high and stiff
• Walking straight towards the other dogs
• Starring
• Weight on the front paws
• Neck hair raised
• Escalating growling or barking
• Closed mouth slow breathing
• If warning signals are not read properly either by
people or other dogs, can lead to aggression.
77. Hard eye, wrinkles over muzzle, bared teeth
Protracted warning sequence
designed to avoid actual
contact. Any dog, pushed too
far can bite.
78. Submissive grin
vs. snarl
How can you tell the difference?
Hard eye, tense facial muscles,
lips and whiskers forward
Squinty, lips back,
ears back and low,
body soft and low
79. Play Signals List to invite other
dogs and people to play
• Elbows on the floor, rear end in the air
• Raising a front paw
• Relaxed mouth, mouth open
• Ears held high and back
• Tail wagging
• Bouncy movements
• Raised neck hairs
81. ENGAGING PLAY
The classic play bow
Let's party! Rear higher
than front, elbows bent. The
bend in the elbow is an
extremely important message.
82. He is not pinned down, he fell down of his own accord.
Note curving posture of both dogs.
In healthy play, role reversal is frequent. - Bekoff & Allen - 1998
83. Submissive posture is offered, not forced
Dogs fall down, assuming the lower role, voluntarily. If pushed
and pinned, they are being bullied, not submissive.
84. Sometimes play can
get carried away.
• Wide open eyes, pupil dilation
• Sideways look - "whale eye”
• Teeth bared, commissure forward
Arousal levels rising
– time for a play break?
ESCALATION
85. How can you tell
this is playing
and not fighting?
Self handicapping,
arousal, and
tipping.
Playing by the rules requires:
Importance of Bite Inhibition
Play bow,
loose level tail
Limp soft bodies, c-shape
87. Mixed Signals!
It is not uncommon to see a dog exhibiting signals
from different lists. Often this is a dog displaying
that he is conflicted about the environment he is
in.
If you are unsure how a dog-dog interaction will go
or you see alerting behavior, always better to be
more cautious than not. Call the dog to give him a
break from the stimulus. Catch him before he
reacts, and with repeated practice he will look to
you in these scary moments without being asked.
89. WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR THAT
LEADS TO DOGS FIGHTING
Rough play
Herding
Stalking
Excessive barking
Targeting a dog to play
Humping
Failure to read another dog’s cut-off or fear signals
Locked staring
Growling, and escalation
Baring of teeth
Presence of resources between two resource guarders
90. What To Do to avoid
dog-dog fights
• As a dog walker, you need to see what is going on and
intervene when you feel situations are becoming unsafe.
Step in, redirect.
• Frequent play breaks, understanding stress signals,
setting the tone for the walk and the group, distracting a
dog or giving a dog a job to do instead of undesired
behaviors, creating distance, and treating to calm a
nervous dog are all things you can do when you see
warning queues from your dogs.
• It is always wise to leave the park if one of your dogs
shows signs of tiredness, stress or fear.
• Avoid threatening unfamiliar dogs. Be conscious of your
surroundings.
• Select appropriate dogs for your packs!
91. “My dog is
just being
dominant”
AGGRESSION
“MY DOG IS JUST DOMINANT”
92. 1 To resolve conflict over resources
2 In response to fear
3 Hard-wired predatory behavior
3 REASONS FOR AGGRESSION
93. This is the number one reason dogs fight.
tennis balls
water
mates
access to you
food
treats (on your person)
Space (in car/ truck/territory)
Know when to refer out or ask for training help.
RESOURCE GUARDING
94. Dogs maybe fearful of CERTAIN dogs or SPECIFIC people.
Previous bad experiences.
Under socialization is usually the reason.
Most fearful dogs make themselves small, and they try to
increase distance from the stimulus if they can (avoidance/
f light). But these dogs are still a bit risk if pushed too far.
Some dogs learn over time that barking, growling, lunging
makes the scary thing go away. And once this is discovered,
fear-aggressive displays become bigger, and more scary.
FEAR AGGRESSION
95. Be cautious with small, running and high pitched squeaky
play.
Very real and very serious. Usually with outside pack dogs.
It happens in an instant. Like a light switch going off in a
dog’s head for dogs who have never shown any signs of
aggression in the past.
50% rule size differential.
Especially important when in transport, when off leash and in
a pack.
Can and usually does happen with dogs who have lived
together their entire life.
Bite inhibition plays role.
Compulsive fighting- dogs breed for fighting other dogs.
PREDATION
97. 97
SMALL DOGS COULD BE SEEN AS PREY.
ONE SQUEAL PLUS PACK MENTALITY
AND YOUR SMALL DOG COULD BE KILLED.
Image altered – no Pugs were injured in the making of this photo!
98. Most dog to human bites are avoidable if we “listen’ to what
the dogs are telling us.
Failure to properly read canine body language forces them to
go/ act BIGGER: bigger lunges, growls, snaps, bites, etc.
We punish them for warning cues like growls and snarls.
REMEMBER- a dog who growls has made a decision, we could
have bitten instead.
AVOIDING DOG – HUMAN CONFLICTS
99. There is nothing to fear
Ritualization is here!
Luckily most of the
time when a dog looks
angry he is just trying
to actually get out of
an uncomfortable
situation by using
what is called
Ritualized Aggression.
100. Ritualized Aggression
An exaggerated display of aggression to
tell the stimulus (or scary thing) to back
off or there will be trouble. Thereby
avoiding violence and solving conflict.
101. Why?
Dogs use ritualization to avoid fights and
violence when conflict over things such as
personal space, mates and resources (ie
toys and food) arise.
102. I NEED MY SPACE!
The dog isn't saying "I'm going
to bite", he is saying "Back off
or else you will force me too.”
103. 103
RED
FLAGS
High tails are red flags.
The higher and stiffer the tail, the
higher the arousal.
Stiff bodies, tense movements.
Arousal often tips over
into aggression.
Dogs hunched, slinking,
crouching, hiding, running to their owners for help.
General avoidance is a red flag.
Hot pursuit. Stalking in ambush. Ganging up on smaller,
weaker dogs.
Vocalization – angry barking or growling from dogs -or their
owners/ walkers.
Owners/ walkers not stepping in when needed – or absent.
As well as owners/ walking constantly micromanaging when
they don’t need to.
104. Excessive mounting
Pinning
Shadowing another dog
Neck grabbing
Bullying
MORE RED FLAGS
106. 106
GOOD SIGNS – FAIR PLAY
Role reversal. Takes turns. Chase and be
chased. I jump on you - you jump on me.
Starts and stops, redirection.
Play bows, loose bodies, lateral
movement.
Relaxed, horizontal tail. Swishy wags.
Self handicapping - adjusts for other dog’s
size, needs and play style.
Shows bite inhibition. No body grabs or
gripping with jaws.
107. Tarzan
Bully
Inter-Male
Breed Specific
Police Dog
Social Proximity
PLAY STYLES
110. The following list are some of the things that can often predict a
dog fight:
• Rough play
• Herding behavior
• Stalking behavior
• Excessive barking
• Failure to read another dog’s cutoff signals
• Stiff posture
• Humping
• Locked gaze
• Growling
• Baring of teeth
Predicting a Fight
111. THE
STRESS
ESCALATIN
LADDER-
Turid Rugaas
Extreme levels of stress
Dog is forced to take action.
Preparation to take action.
Low levels of
stressCommunication efforts
to
lower stress levels & perceived
aggressive behaviors in others.
Displacement behaviors:
Sniffing the ground
Scratching
Calming signals:
Yawning
Lip licking
Looking away
Turning away
Moving slowly
STRESS REACTIONS:
Panting
Pupil dilation
Shaking off adrenaline
Sweating paws
Trembling / shaking
Whale eye
Hackling
FOCUS:
Loss of calming signals
Close mouth - Freeze
Preparing to defend:
Showing teeth
Growling
Flight / withdrawal
BITE!
LUNGE
112. The biggest pre-bite warning a dog will
issue: The Freeze.
If the dog’s mouth is open and it closes.
If a dog is panting and stops.
If his tail is wagging and it stops.
If he was moving and he suddenly
becomes a statue …
PAY ATTENTION!
113. The freeze.
When in a state of arousal a dog
goes still, even for a split
second, consider it a warning.
Be aware of where he is looking.
That is where he will bite you if
he decides to bite.
Escalates to “Teeing.”
A freeze can happen
in the blink of an eye.
Or the dog may go
eerily still and make
the hair rise on the
back of your neck.
114. • Careful Screening and Pack Composition
• Situational Awareness
• Avoiding Unknown Dogs
• Safety when driving and crating
Preventing Dog Fights from
Occurring
115. • Even if the dogs
seem like they
would both enjoy
the interaction it
is an unnecessary
liability to allow
them to play.
Avoid Unknown Dogs
116. Breaking up Fights
What Not to Do
NEVER EVER EVER GRAB A DOG BY THE COLLAR
You are likely to get bitten!
117. The best way to break up a dog fight is to startle
the dogs using an exterior stimulus.
• Loud noises such as a clap or yelling for minor
fights and airhorns for bigger fights.
• Spraying the dogs in the face with water.
• Tossing a piece of clothing over both of their
heads.
• Citronella spray for last resort.
How to Break Up Fights
118. What to do after a fight
• Immediately leash/ muzzle the aggressor dog.
• Separate the two fighters and check for injuries.
• If minor enough to continue walk, do not let
them interact the rest of the day.
• Try to occupy both dogs and redirect focus.
• Try to keep arousal down>
• Call the owners and notify them of new
behaviors and come up with a plan so it does not
happen again.
119. DOG FIGHT EFFECTS
Once a dog has fought, his cortisol levels (stress hormones)
are elevated for the next three days.
Which means that once a dog has a fight, he/she is much
more likely to have another fight for the next 72 hours.
Your dog just “rehearsed” being aggressive and pinning it is
the worst thing you can do. It puts an adrenaline charged
dog in a vulnerable position while other dogs are off leash.
Pinning can have the opposite effect and cause a dog that is
known to be questionable around dogs to develop full blown
aggression, with more intense damage causing fights.
120. 120
YOU PLANNED TO
SPEND THE
AFTERNOON AT THE
DOG PARK,
NOT THE VET
CLINIC!
It’s all fun and games until someone ends up in a cone!
122. 122
THE DOG PARK IS NOT A GOOD CHOICE
FOR ALL DOGS.
NOT EVERY DOG IS A
“DOG PARK DOG”.
Uncomfortable
dogs are often
targeted by
bullies. It’s like
they have a “kick
me” sign or a
bull’s eye on their
backs.
Shy dogs may be
more comfortable
in the small dog
area.
Your dog is not a
“bad dog” if she
simply doesn’t
enjoy “playing”
with unfamiliar
dogs at the dog
park.
Many dogs do not enjoy being surrounded by space invaders.
Does your dog really think this environment is “fun”?
123. 123
DON’T BRING A DOG WITH
SOCIAL ISSUES TO “GET
OVER” HIS PROBLEM.
Not appropriate
for the dog park:
• Aggressive dogs.
• Very shy dogs.
• Young puppies.
• Dogs who are
possessive of toys,
food or you.
• Unvaccinated,
injured or ill dogs.
• Dogs in season.
He’ll more likely get worse, not better.
124. Careful Screening and Pack
Composition
• Nothing is more important when walking
dogs both on and off leash than choosing
the right dogs to walk together.
• It is ok to reorganize groups, and offer
different walk slot times for dogs to
change the dynamic of the group.
• It is also ok to refer clients to other
services when their dogs begin to show
behaviors that can not be worked on in a
group setting.
125. Wellness Check – do not bring out with the pack if
you notice:
Coughing/ gagging
Vomiting
Diarrhea
Sneezing
CLIENT COMMUNICATION
126. 126
A DOG PARK IS A GREAT
PLACE TO RUN!
Dogs need exercise! Opportunities to run free and
fast, chase balls, sniff and explore.
The average walk on leash just doesn’t fill the bill.
Tired, satisfied dogs are more content and less
likely to be destructive.
127. 127
TIRED DOGS SLEEP!
Adolescent dogs and high energy
working breeds often have more energy
than they know what to do with.
A chance to romp with friends and run
off some steam and your rowdy
teenager comes home tired and
satisfied – and doesn’t need to take that
excess energy out on you!
128. 128
WELL SOCIALIZED, WELL TRAINED
DOGS ARE SAFER IN PUBLIC
People who take the time to
attend training classes and
exercise their dogs are
generally responsible owners
who genuinely care about their
dog and its welfare.
The more a dog gets out in the
world practicing good manners
and experiencing positive
exposure to people, places and
other animals, the safer the dog
becomes when out in public.
Training + socialization = safer dogs
130. 130
SUPER-VISION:
KEEP YOUR DOG IN
SIGHT AT ALL TIMES.
Monitor his behavior. He may
be “fine,” but is the dog he is
playing with having fun, too?
Think of the park as a place to
go for a walk. Don’t stand and
chat; walk and visit.
Keep moving!
Pay attention to your dog
- not your phone, your book,
or texting your friends.
131. 131
A BAD EXPERIENCE COULD
IMPACT A YOUNG OR SHY
DOG FOR THE REST OF ITS
LIFE.
The dog park is not a good
place to socialize young
puppies. Choose a well-run
puppy class instead.
Avoid public parks,
especially dog parks, until
they have completed their
vaccinations.
Older pups should start in
the small dog area on quiet
days.
Choose their friends
carefully!
Young, inexperienced dogs
are often targeted by bullies.
132. 132
CLASSICAL CONDITIONING: EMOTIONAL
ASSOCIATIONS
Dogs who are bullied often
become bullies.
Fear grimace – lips pulled back
Tail dropped, weight shifted back
“Stay away! You scare me!”
(She needs space, not a correction)
A bad experience.
A dog who is T-boned,
rolled, or unfairly
corrected by a socially
inept dog may carry that
experience with them
into all future
interactions. “I’ll get
you before you can get
me!”
133. 133
BE POLITE
Scoop the poop – the dogs in your care and
anyone else’s.
See someone who needs a bag? Share!
Toss all garbage – yours and anyone else’s.
Is someone else’s dog running to you for
help? Help one another out!
Feces and garbage may carry bacteria and parasites.
Keep the park clean! We all share it!
134. 134
PACK WISELY
Bring poop bags
Bring water & a portable bowl
Keep a first aid kit in your car
Bring your cell phone and the number of the
nearest veterinarian/emergency clinic
Don’t forget to
bring a towel !
135. 135
SAFETY FIRST!
Make sure your dogs are in good health,
vaccinated and free of parasites.
Your dogs should be safe with dogs & people,
large and small, and enjoy the company of other
dogs.
Try to choose a quiet time of day when the park
is not crowded and hang out in less-populated
parts of the park. Let your dogs sniff and
explore and meet a few quiet, appropriate dogs.
Your dogs’ safety is paramount. Your first duty
is to your dog when inside the dog park and stay
off your phone.
136. 136
NO FEMALES IN SEASON!
Many intact males can be testy with other males. We recommend
do not taking intact males over 6 months of
age to avoid being targeted.
137. 137
THE SAFEST PARKS HAVE DIVIDED
AREAS FOR LARGE & SMALL DOGS
Large dogs belong in the
large dog area.
Small dogs belong in the
small dog area.
Your small dog may love
big dogs, but some large
dogs may see your small
dog as a squirrel or a
squeaky toy.
Collisions could result in
broken bones.
Small dogs or young
puppies in the large dog
area could result in
tragedy.
Most little dogs don’t
know they are small!
138. 138
ENTERING THE PARK:
LET’S BEGIN WITH A FEW DOG
PARK BASICS:
Keep your dog on lead until safely inside
the gated area.
One dog family in the pass-thru at a time.
Stay back from the gate until others have
exited. Close the gates behind you!
Wait to go in if there are dogs
congregated at the gate.
Move away from the gate and steer clear
of heavily congregated areas – keep
moving.
139. 139
SOCIAL
PROTOCOL
The first few minutes
is a period of
introduction, arousal,
attaining social
equilibrium.
It is stressful.
The gate is a hot
spot.
Trouble is likely there.
Wait for the gate to
clear, avoid walking
straight into crowded,
high traffic areas.
Video – traffic jam at the gate:
140. 140
ENTER THE DOG PARK THE WAY YOU
WOULD ENTER A PARTY WHERE YOU
DON’T KNOW ANYONE.
Enter discreetly. Get your bearings.
Size up the room, look for a familiar face.
Wander a bit, get a drink.
Seek out someone you have
something in common with.
Politely introduce yourself.
141. 141
PLAY SAFELY!
Competitive play can quickly
spiral into a fight.
Play fetch in open areas away
from crowds, or save those
games for the privacy of your
own backyard.
142. 142
DON’T THROW HIS
BALL INTO
A CROWD OF DOGS.
ONE BALL, FIVE DOGS AND A
RACE TO GET TO IT FIRST –
THIS COULD GO POORLY.
Beware of the dog who is poised to jump the dog chasing the ball.
Change locations or wait until he moves on to throw your ball.
143. 143
ASK OTHER OWNERS/WALKERS FOR HELP
HOW YOU ASK IS IMPORTANT –
BE CALM AND SUPPORTIVE.
OWNERS/WALKERS MAY BECOME DEFENSIVE
REGARDING COMPLAINTS ABOUT THEIR DOG.
“Could you call your dog, please?”
“It’s okay, my dog is friendly - he’s just
playing.”
“I know, but my dog is a scaredy cat, he
doesn’t know that – could you please call
your dog? Thank you!
144. 144
GOOD DOG PARENTING/
MANAGEMENT
Watch the dog(s) he is playing with. If
either dog is not having fun – if anyone’s
tail drops and ears flip back – interrupt and
redirect.
Your dogs needs guidance to learn
appropriate manners in the park.
Do not allow your dog to bully others or
have fun at the expense of another dog’s
comfort. Interrupt. Take a break to calm
down.
145. 145
NOT SURE IF THE DOG BEING CHASED BY YOUR DOG
IS ENJOYING THE GAME? TEST: CALL YOUR DOG.
If the other dog follows and continues to engage your
dog, it was probably fine. You may allow play to continue.
If the other dog looks relieved and dashes off to safety,
you were right in separating them.
146. 146
YOUR DOG WILL BE SAFER, AND SO WILL ALL
THE DOGS IN THE PARK, IF YOU CAN CALL
THEM OUT OF A TRICKY SITUATION.
Practice at home!
Call often and reward generously with a high value food
reward, a game with a favorite toy, or any activity that
your dog loves.
Every time you call your dog and reward him well, you
increase the speed and likelihood of future reliable
responses.
Avoid calling to anything your dog finds disappointing or
unpleasant, or he will learn to avoid you when you call.
Congratulate your dog every time he checks in.
Call, praise and then send your dog off to go play
frequently,
so your dog doesn’t think that the only time he hears
“come”
is when it’s time to go home.
NOTE: Avoid giving out treats to other dogs,
or even to your own dog, while other dogs are gathered –
you don't want to start a conflict, competing over you as a food source.
147. 147
EVEN WHEN IT’S GOING WELL,
CONTINUE TO MONITOR AROUSAL
LEVELS CLOSELY!
JUST LIKE KIDS ON A PLAY GROUND,
WHAT STARTS OUT FUN COULD END UP IN
TEARS!
Cooperative play ^
side-by-side sharing.
^ Note: high tail and hair
raised on spine of brown dog.
Red flag!
v Competitive exchange, arousal rising
Dogs face-off – “it’s mine!”
Hackles raised
eyebrows lowered
When in doubt, call him out!
148. 148
Dominance or submissiveness is not a character trait
– it’s a situational relationship between individuals.
NO DOG IS “GOOD” WITH *ALL DOGS*
ALL THE TIME
149. 149
CHECK FOR INJURIES AFTER EVERY
HIKE WHEN DROPPING OFF.
Ticks
Foxtails & burrs
Scrapes or punctures
Injuries to pads of feet or torn nails
Head shaking, scratching, licking,
sneezing
Limping, sore muscles
Play is hard work!
150. 150
AT THE END OF
THE WALK, YOU
AND YOUR DOGS
SHOULD LEAVE
THE PARK SMILING.
Monitor stress levels – watch
for red flags.
Stay in touch with your dogs- keep
him in sight at all times.
Body block to protect your dogs if he runs to you for help.
Don’t grab your dog to “save” him. Intercept and redirect
the incoming space invader to give your dogs room to
escape.
Call your dogs and move away from troublesome activity
any time things get tense or your dogs seem
uncomfortable.
Praise for all great choices and good manners!
151. Well-socialized,
trained
dogs are safer dogs
that make our parks
safer too!
Not all dogs are
“dog park/ group
dogs.”
If a dog (or you) are
not enjoying the hikes
it is ok to refer out to
another walker who
does a different
service (one on one) or
a trainer if needed.
151
SUMMARY- YOU ARE THE
KEY TO SUCCESS!