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Inkjet Printing for Textiles:
an enabling tool for realising
digital workflows & mass customisation.
dr. Pramod Agrawal & Ir. Ger Brinks




RESEARCH CENTER DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY
Kom verder. Saxion.
Saxion as a knowledge institute

      switching from…
            education only
              ……………transfer of know how




            to universities of applied science
                ……………knowledge development and knowledge circulation/dissemination




Kom verder. Saxion.
Saxion facts and figures
   One of the biggest private institutes of higher education in
    the Netherlands

   24.000 students (Enschede, Deventer & Apeldoorn)

   Education: 60 bachelor, 11 master, 7 associated degree
    studies

   13 Academies

   Applied research: 6 knowledge centres and 40 chairs




Kom verder. Saxion.
Six coherent chairs at KC-DT/Saxion-Enschede



          Media               Ambient                  Fashion Materials
          Technology          Intelligence             Design
          Design


          Societal     Concept-          Product-
          theme        development       development
                                                             Product   Market
                                                                                €
          Industrial          Smart Functional         Production-
          Design              Materials                and Process innovation




Kom verder. Saxion.
Research casting

                 UTwente
                                           Saxion
                                                                 Industry
                                                                                   Market
                  Academic               Innovative
                                                              Development            €
                  research                research



                      > 4 yrs            < 2 yrs              1 yr



                Chair Engineering of Fibrous Smart Materials (EFSM) at University of Twente
                Chair Functional Smart Materials at Saxion, KCDT, Enschede
                 New knowledge available for the Industry



Kom verder. Saxion.
Chair – Functional smart materials

Key research area
 Functionalisation of textile materials

 Inkjet printing / Digital processes

 Conductive yarns/ 3D prototyping

 Sustainability: from materials to processes
                                                              functions
 Recycling

 Application of enzyme technology
                                                                          material


                                                  surface
                                                engineering         characteristics




Kom verder. Saxion.
What are smart-technical textiles?

              Textiles                 Materials           Electronics




     Conventional Textiles


                               Technical Textiles


                                                    Smart/Intelligent Textiles




Kom verder. Saxion.
Key European projects (FP7) –
                    Smart functional textiles / Digital workflows


                •     Leapfrog    (www.leapfrog-eu.org)
                •     Digitex     (www.dappoloniaresearch.com/digitex/home.php)
                •     BIOTEX      (www.biotex-eu.com)
                •     CONTEX      (www.context-project.org)
                •     ProeTEX     (www.proetex.org)
                •     STELLA      (www.stella-project.de)
                •     OFSETH      (www.ofseth.org)
                •     myHeart     (www.hitech-projects.com/euprojects/myheart)
                •     Avalon      (www.avalon-eu.org)
                •     Clevertex   (www.clevertex.net)
                •     Lidwine     (http://cordis.europa.eu)




Kom verder. Saxion.
Digital workflow
     Key components
     • Information/ knowledge flow
     • Materials flow




     The nature of Digital workflows
     • Adoptive system: it adapts to changing conditions by target-
        oriented responses so that particular function can be performed.

     •   Anolog-digital control / Hybrid control: when a master
         controller operates on an underlying analog cycle sequence to
         achieve a high degree of long-term constancy.




Kom verder. Saxion.
Why Digital workflow?

   •   European textile sector: need for bulk production to mass customisation.

   •   Market positioning of high performance & functional clothing.

   •   Fundamental redesign of the entire garment industry chain.

   •   Minimising accidents during the production.

   •   Improved precision, reducing mistakes.

   •   Value addition.

   •   Sustainability.

   •   Recyclability.

                                                                              Key
                                                                             Drivers



Kom verder. Saxion.
Technology drivers for Digital workflows



                            Technology
                            • Nano
                                                      Products
Science                     • Bio
• Physics                   • Polymer                 Production
• Chemistry                 • electronics                          Market
• Technical                 • ICT                     Systems        €
• ……many others             • Production
                            • ..many others           “Enablers”




                           Social trends and themes




Kom verder. Saxion.
Digital printing
                                                                                             Decrease in rotary screen printing
                                                                                             (will go slow because of install base)



                                       50
       (% of printed textile volume)
                  In use




                                       25




                                       10


                                       0
                                            1980       1990      2000       2010      2020       2030     2040




Kom verder. Saxion.
Mass customisation / Digital workflow
  - Inkjet printing as a process enabling technology
Kom verder. Saxion.
Inkjet development




Kom verder. Saxion.
Application trends

                       Graphical Printing                 Functional Printing
      Marking/coding




                                                      Martin et al.
                                      J. Phys.: Conference Series
                                       (2008) vol. 105 pp. 012001




Kom verder. Saxion.
Market demands: Graphical textiles printing


                            •   Productivity: 20 – 30 m2/hours

                            •   High resolution: e.g. fine tie patterns

                            •   Support for various fabric types

                            •   Colour reproduction: better than screen printing

                            •   Strike-through: colour permeability to rear surface

                            •   High colour fastness: equal fastness to screen printing

                            •   Low running cost.




Kom verder. Saxion.
Graphical Printing – Industrial printers




                  •   DuPont Artistri TM 2020 textile printing Systems
                  •   DReAM – Reggiani Macchine, Italy



Kom verder. Saxion.
DReAM – Reggiani Macchine, Italy

•   Roll-to-roll configuration
•   Fabric width: 1.6 – 2.2 m
•   Speed: up to 190 m2/hr with 600 dpi
    resolution
•   Allows instant change of design pattern
•   DOD technology / piezoelectric Scitex heads
•   It utilises 7 printing heads for six colours (42
    printing heads on one bridge)
•   Substrate: Virtually any flat surface (textiles,
    leather)                                         http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ItROq-l1aM
•   All ink chemistry possible (direct, reactive,
    pigment, disperse etc.)




Kom verder. Saxion.
Functional digital printing – an overview




Kom verder. Saxion.
Our choice: DoD / Piezo Inkjet – PIJ

DoD technology: Deformation of a piezo crystal which leads to a volume alternation in the ink
 chamber and finally to a drop ejection. No squeezing!




Fabricators: Epson, Xaar, Spectra, Brother, Mimaki, Tektronik



Kom verder. Saxion.
Applications: Functional printing

 functional printing
 • printed electronics
 • chemistry / medicine
 • process engineering
 • rapid prototyping                                            printing of an
                                         solar cell             RFID antenna,
                                      www.solarzelle.net        TU Chemnitz

   process requirements
   • reliable
   • variable print pattern
   • high resolution and accuracy
   • flexible ink and substrate



                                                    Silver tracks on
                                                   polyimide, Harima
                PIJ

Kom verder. Saxion.
Applications: Functional Digital finishes


•   Cyclodextrins

•   Nano Ag (antimicrobial)

•   Nano TiO2 (self cleaning).

•   Sol-gel (SiO2)

•   Bionics (shark skin effect, Lotus
    effect)

•   Moisture management




Kom verder. Saxion.
Digital finishing process




Functional digitaal finishing proces (Realising reliable digital processing in the textiles industries)




 Kom verder. Saxion.
Grasping opportunities of global trend




Kom verder. Saxion.
Saxion – the offer

•   Basic theory course on Digital printing/finishing & Digital
    Workflow.

•   Six month minor program: new product development in the area
    of functional smart materials.

•   International Masters: The students works on actual R&D
    projects sponsored by the industry or having a pure academic
    interest.

•   Participation in RAAK and EU projects,

•   Commercial R&D facilities: Project from textile and related
    industries in terms of innovation vouchers or project grant.




Kom verder. Saxion.
Saxion other facilities
 User Test lab
 Materials studio
 Materials development lab: FabLab
 Ambient embedded systems lab




Kom verder. Saxion.
Dutch network


                      Nonwovens/3Dstructures
                         Technical textiles




                                                                             Materials, textiles


                           Textile printing
                                                 Textile chemicals


                                                                                        Laundry
                  Textiel branche organisation                                          products
                                                                                        business

                                                      Knowledge Insititute




Kom verder. Saxion.
Statement & Solution…

                           “…For its survival the textile industry has to be
                           transformed from a labour intensive business towards a
                           knowledge intensive business…”




                           “…Digital printing of functional materials by specially
                           designed inkjet-printers is driven by the emerging need for
                           mass customization feasible through digital workflows...”




                      Thanks for your attention!!!
Kom verder. Saxion.

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Pramod Agrawal - Saxion

  • 1. Inkjet Printing for Textiles: an enabling tool for realising digital workflows & mass customisation. dr. Pramod Agrawal & Ir. Ger Brinks RESEARCH CENTER DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 2. Saxion as a knowledge institute switching from…  education only ……………transfer of know how to universities of applied science ……………knowledge development and knowledge circulation/dissemination Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 3. Saxion facts and figures  One of the biggest private institutes of higher education in the Netherlands  24.000 students (Enschede, Deventer & Apeldoorn)  Education: 60 bachelor, 11 master, 7 associated degree studies  13 Academies  Applied research: 6 knowledge centres and 40 chairs Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 4. Six coherent chairs at KC-DT/Saxion-Enschede Media Ambient Fashion Materials Technology Intelligence Design Design Societal Concept- Product- theme development development Product Market € Industrial Smart Functional Production- Design Materials and Process innovation Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 5. Research casting UTwente Saxion Industry Market Academic Innovative Development € research research > 4 yrs < 2 yrs 1 yr  Chair Engineering of Fibrous Smart Materials (EFSM) at University of Twente  Chair Functional Smart Materials at Saxion, KCDT, Enschede  New knowledge available for the Industry Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 6. Chair – Functional smart materials Key research area  Functionalisation of textile materials  Inkjet printing / Digital processes  Conductive yarns/ 3D prototyping  Sustainability: from materials to processes functions  Recycling  Application of enzyme technology material surface engineering characteristics Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 7. What are smart-technical textiles? Textiles Materials Electronics Conventional Textiles Technical Textiles Smart/Intelligent Textiles Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 8. Key European projects (FP7) – Smart functional textiles / Digital workflows • Leapfrog (www.leapfrog-eu.org) • Digitex (www.dappoloniaresearch.com/digitex/home.php) • BIOTEX (www.biotex-eu.com) • CONTEX (www.context-project.org) • ProeTEX (www.proetex.org) • STELLA (www.stella-project.de) • OFSETH (www.ofseth.org) • myHeart (www.hitech-projects.com/euprojects/myheart) • Avalon (www.avalon-eu.org) • Clevertex (www.clevertex.net) • Lidwine (http://cordis.europa.eu) Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 9. Digital workflow Key components • Information/ knowledge flow • Materials flow The nature of Digital workflows • Adoptive system: it adapts to changing conditions by target- oriented responses so that particular function can be performed. • Anolog-digital control / Hybrid control: when a master controller operates on an underlying analog cycle sequence to achieve a high degree of long-term constancy. Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 10. Why Digital workflow? • European textile sector: need for bulk production to mass customisation. • Market positioning of high performance & functional clothing. • Fundamental redesign of the entire garment industry chain. • Minimising accidents during the production. • Improved precision, reducing mistakes. • Value addition. • Sustainability. • Recyclability. Key Drivers Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 11. Technology drivers for Digital workflows Technology • Nano Products Science • Bio • Physics • Polymer Production • Chemistry • electronics Market • Technical • ICT Systems € • ……many others • Production • ..many others “Enablers” Social trends and themes Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 12. Digital printing Decrease in rotary screen printing (will go slow because of install base) 50 (% of printed textile volume) In use 25 10 0 1980       1990      2000       2010      2020       2030     2040 Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 13. Mass customisation / Digital workflow - Inkjet printing as a process enabling technology Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 15. Application trends Graphical Printing Functional Printing Marking/coding Martin et al. J. Phys.: Conference Series (2008) vol. 105 pp. 012001 Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 16. Market demands: Graphical textiles printing • Productivity: 20 – 30 m2/hours • High resolution: e.g. fine tie patterns • Support for various fabric types • Colour reproduction: better than screen printing • Strike-through: colour permeability to rear surface • High colour fastness: equal fastness to screen printing • Low running cost. Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 17. Graphical Printing – Industrial printers • DuPont Artistri TM 2020 textile printing Systems • DReAM – Reggiani Macchine, Italy Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 18. DReAM – Reggiani Macchine, Italy • Roll-to-roll configuration • Fabric width: 1.6 – 2.2 m • Speed: up to 190 m2/hr with 600 dpi resolution • Allows instant change of design pattern • DOD technology / piezoelectric Scitex heads • It utilises 7 printing heads for six colours (42 printing heads on one bridge) • Substrate: Virtually any flat surface (textiles, leather) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ItROq-l1aM • All ink chemistry possible (direct, reactive, pigment, disperse etc.) Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 19. Functional digital printing – an overview Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 20. Our choice: DoD / Piezo Inkjet – PIJ DoD technology: Deformation of a piezo crystal which leads to a volume alternation in the ink chamber and finally to a drop ejection. No squeezing! Fabricators: Epson, Xaar, Spectra, Brother, Mimaki, Tektronik Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 21. Applications: Functional printing functional printing • printed electronics • chemistry / medicine • process engineering • rapid prototyping printing of an solar cell RFID antenna, www.solarzelle.net TU Chemnitz process requirements • reliable • variable print pattern • high resolution and accuracy • flexible ink and substrate Silver tracks on polyimide, Harima PIJ Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 22. Applications: Functional Digital finishes • Cyclodextrins • Nano Ag (antimicrobial) • Nano TiO2 (self cleaning). • Sol-gel (SiO2) • Bionics (shark skin effect, Lotus effect) • Moisture management Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 23. Digital finishing process Functional digitaal finishing proces (Realising reliable digital processing in the textiles industries) Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 24. Grasping opportunities of global trend Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 25. Saxion – the offer • Basic theory course on Digital printing/finishing & Digital Workflow. • Six month minor program: new product development in the area of functional smart materials. • International Masters: The students works on actual R&D projects sponsored by the industry or having a pure academic interest. • Participation in RAAK and EU projects, • Commercial R&D facilities: Project from textile and related industries in terms of innovation vouchers or project grant. Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 26. Saxion other facilities  User Test lab  Materials studio  Materials development lab: FabLab  Ambient embedded systems lab Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 27. Dutch network Nonwovens/3Dstructures Technical textiles Materials, textiles Textile printing Textile chemicals Laundry Textiel branche organisation products business Knowledge Insititute Kom verder. Saxion.
  • 28. Statement & Solution… “…For its survival the textile industry has to be transformed from a labour intensive business towards a knowledge intensive business…” “…Digital printing of functional materials by specially designed inkjet-printers is driven by the emerging need for mass customization feasible through digital workflows...” Thanks for your attention!!! Kom verder. Saxion.