Home or Away? Britain's Summer Travel Plans

T R A V E L
FROM THE EDITOR

HOME OR AWAY?

W
elcome to the
s u m m e r- t i m e
issue of The
Travel & Leisure
Magazine. Traditionally, it
is when we Brits make our
annual pilgrimage to soak
up the sun on distant
beaches. But, according to
several surveys, more of GETTING TO KNOW Thailand bling and buy 6
us are choosing to stay in
the UK this year – either to cut down on the
expense of going abroad, or to enjoy the “bar-
TRAVEL UPDATE Travel news 15
beque summer” promised by the Met Office.
Wherever you head, we hope you will take ESCAPE TO Salzburg – city of music 18
this issue with you. As ever, it is packed full of
ideas for holidays, both overseas and at home. ALL ABOARD Cruising from UK ports + News 23
And with an eye on the weather, we look at
London’s glorious parks and see what’s going
on during the summer beyond the capital.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK KwaZulu-Natal 28
We head to Thailand, a perennial favourite for
its beaches and good-value shopping, and sing LET’S TRY Escorted coach holidays 34
the praises of music city Salzburg. We also go
on the buses to see how coach holidays have PACK YOUR CLUBS Spain’s Murcia region + News 41
changed. The Channel Islands are the focus for
our look at holidays on your doorstep. Keeping
the theme close to home we highlight cruises
ON YOUR DOORSTEP The Channel Islands 47
from UK ports, which are growing in populari-
ty. And we tee it up in Spain’s Murcia region for IN YOUR FLIGHT BAG 53
our golf spotlight. WIN – A stylish Travelwrap worth over £200
Sit back, enjoy the read – and catch those rays
while they last.
IN YOUR SUITCASE 54
Peter Ellegard PLUS – 5 Yale Travel Safes to give away

BEST FOR Hotels news and review 68

4 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009

L E I S U R E

EDITORIAL TEAM
OUT & ABOUT What’s on outside London 56 Editor Peter Ellegard
Writers Peter Ellegard, Keeley Gordon, Sara
Macefield, Dave Richardson, Debbie Ward and
COMING NEXT What’s in store in the next issue 59 Frank Partridge
Design Nick Blaxill
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Admin/Accounts Wendy Barfoot
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July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 5

Karst away
in bling and buy paradise
From its gorgeous beaches and craggy karst islands to golden palaces,
jungles and great shopping, it is hardly surprising Thailand is such a
popular holiday spot. Debbie Ward is a Thai dyed-in-the-wool fan…

“T
here’s the big- paddle tour of scenic rock climbing; there’s a
headed ghost” mangroves at Thailand’s cultural side – if you join
said my guide, southerly resort of the monks (and the
flashing the beam Krabi. My small monkeys) at the nearby
of her torch into kayaking party not Tiger Cave Temple;
Main photo and inset:Tourism Authority of Thailand

the upper reaches only took in the “big- and, of course, there’s
of the cave. I could make out a striped headed ghost cave” but some of the world’s most
snake-like creature with a bulge and an eye also tunnels hung with gorgeous beaches to lie
at one end. I did what any tourist would do, stalactites and leafy corri- your towel upon.
I took a photo. dors where brightly-coloured I Wat Pho Buddha Low-key Krabi may not be
As I was wearing flip flops and my only crabs crawled up exposed tree Thailand’s most popular resort (it
means of escape was a kayak it’s just as well roots. lags in that respect behind Phuket and
this was no malevolent monster but a 2,000 Krabi could be considered a small-scale Koh Samui) but if your mental image of the
year-old cave painting, given its nickname showcase of the tourist appeal of whole of country is craggy limestone karst islands and
by Thai fishermen. Thailand. There’s adventure – with kayak- long-tail boats decorated with ribbons in a
My brush with ancient spirits came on a ing, jungle hikes to hot springs and even turquoise sea, this is where the photos you’re


getting to KNOW
THAILAND

recalling were mostly likely taken. The icon-
ic karst islands were made famous when one I Long-tail boats and karst island off Krabi
was used as a location for the villain
Scaramanga’s hideout in the 1974 Bond film
The Man with the Golden Gun. Now popu-
larly known as James Bond Island, Koh Tapu
(translating as Nail island as it is virtually
vertical) is in Phang Nga Bay and can be
reached on a day trip from Krabi or Phuket.

Island hopping
Krabi’s main strip, Ao Nang, has something
of a waterborne rush hour each morning as
Debbie Ward

long-tails start their noisy outboard motors
to whisk day-tripping tourists into karst-
studded Phang Nga Bay. My partner and I
joined one of the island-hopping excursions By night we enjoyed browsing the restau- By day, when we weren’t on excursions
for a lazy day of sunbathing and snorkelling rants at the quieter eastern end of Ao Nang, we made shorter hops, using the long-tails
on and around five beaches of increasing checking out the catch of the day displayed as a ferry service to the attractive neighbour-
loveliness. Some of the places we stopped on iced trays before tucking our legs under a ing beaches of Railay and, my personal
at were nothing more than sandbars but bamboo table and tucking in to three or four favourite Thai beach, Phra Nang. Here, at
enterprising Thais had turned their long- colourful stir-fry or curry dishes for under one end of the cliff-framed white sand strip,
tails into floating cafes serving milkshakes, £10. Afterwards we’d head for a cocktail at a I found another surprise waiting in a cave –
sandwiches and fruit. bar converted from an old VW campervan. rows of brightly-painted wooden phalluses.


While it may be a giggle for tourists, some
locals believe this cave contains the spirit of
a drowned princess – and I kept a respectful
distance from the devotees offering prayers
before the unusual shrine.

Friendly people
Thailand’s predominantly-Buddhist spiritu-
ality is part of what makes it so famously
friendly. Thais consider it a loss of face to
resort to argument and you’ll rarely hear
raised voices. The short-lived violence at the
government protests of late last year was out

Tourism Authority of Thailand
of character in this usually-peaceful country.
Buddhism also gives Thailand some of its
most colourful sights, such as gold bell-shaped
temple stupas and saffron-robed monks. My
beach shrine was a far cry from the country’s
more glitzy places of worship, the most I Relxation, Thai style
revered of which lies within Bangkok’s key
tourist attraction, the Grand Palace. On my visit I had my own lie down for a tance are the Bridge over the River Kwai, the
You haven’t seen bling until you’ve wan- very affordable kneading at the massage so-called Death Railway built by WWII pris-
dered this sprawling complex of gold leaf- school in Wat Pho’s grounds. oners of war, and Ayutthaya, the site of
covered, jewel-encrusted buildings set Bangkok’s other must-sees, the pottery Thailand’s former royal capital. At the sec-
beside the city’s Chao Phraya River. Despite studded temple of dawn – Wat Arun – and ond of these I was charmed to discover the
the crowds it’s a peaceful place to be, with the small Royal Barges Museum are close odd crumbling stone Buddha statue respect-
Thais making incense and lotus blossom by and reached on a river boat tour. Just fully clothed with saffron robes or patched
offerings and kneeling before the precious beware of locals telling you the attraction with gold leaf among the restored temples
statue that’s the focal point of the Temple of you seek is closed for lunch, flooded or oth- and atmospheric ruins. Most people arrive
the Emerald Buddha. Next door to the erwise unavailable and helpfully suggesting at Ayutthaya by road but it’s possible to
Grand Palace, Wat Pho is home to a giant, alternative sights. They’re invariably drum- make a romantic two-night, three-day jour-
reclining Buddha with feet inlaid with moth- ming up business for a mate with a tuk-tuk! ney aboard a converted rice barge
er of pearl. Out of Bangkok but within day-trip dis- (www.manohracruises.com).

G When visiting Bangkok’s Royal Palace wear enclosed
Cultural tips shoes or sandals with straps around the heels to save
queuing to hire appropriate footwear.
G It is considered rude to point your feet at people in G Be prepared to cover your shoulders and remove shoes
Thailand and especially at images of Buddha.Take care to inside temples.
tuck your feet behind you when sitting on the floor, G The Thai royal family is highly-revered, so derogatory
particularly in temples. comments about them and disrespectful treatment of
G It’s also taboo to touch someone’s head, or to touch Baht notes bearing the king’s image will not be
monks. appreciated.

I The Royal Palace, Bangkok


Thai massage I Traditional Thai massage. Below
left: Thai massage ingredients
Thailand’s unique and effective form of
massage combines stretches with
reflexology-like stimulation of pressure
points. Much attention is focused on the
feet but the masseur will also pull your
pyjama-clad limbs into slightly scary but
ultimately muscle-easing positions, which is
why this technique is sometimes called
“passive yoga”.
If you’re nervous, start with a foot
massage or the more gentle Thai treatments
involving warm herbal poultices.Whatever
you choose, your relaxation will be aided by
the low cost.While you’d commonly pay £1
a minute for a massage at home, £4 an hour
is more typical in Thailand’s clean street or
beachside centres (look out for the
reflexology charts outside) and as little as
£30 in a plush hotel spa with a range of
international treatments.

All photos:Tourism Authority of Thailand

Cycling tour inside what looks like the belly of a bright from recycled animal feed sacks and eating
On another visit to Bangkok, I made my white space ship. Glamorous skyscraper-top dinner under a chandelier hung with Barbie
escape from the city on one of the capital’s bars such as Sirocco Sky Bar dolls. While not everyone will love the
new cycling tours. Thankfully this didn’t (www.thedomebkk.com) at State Tower or quirkiness of this place there are several
route me through Bangkok’s traffic-choked Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar boutique hotels in the capital where the style
streets; instead, our small group was led by (www.banyantree.com) atop the Banyan is more traditional, meaning you no longer
the guide along quiet paths through nearby Tree offer a different perspective with city have to go large for a bit of city chic.
farming areas, creating our own refreshing views that stretch to the horizon.
breeze as we went. During an enlightening Bangkok’s hotels also pack that wow fac- Bargain shopping
day, we stopped to ask farmers the secrets of tor and nowadays size isn’t everything. I recommend hitting Bangkok last if you
the famously-stinky durian fruit and called I’ve been lucky enough to stay in several can. Not only will you have shed
in at a local infant school to watch an plush marble-lobbied giants on the your jetlag in a more relaxed
English lesson in progress. Flinging our riverfront over the years but, on environment but you’ll
mountain bikes into a boat for a short ride my last trip, I chose to down- have got to grips with
up river, we ended up at Koh Kret, an island size to Reflections Rooms I Shop for haggling and the
known for its pottery making and where we (www.reflections-thai.com), local crafts exchange rate
watched freshly-moulded incense burners a bizarre and very afford- before you hit the
being loaded into kilns. able establishment where a capital’s shopping
While the big sights of Bangkok are about host of artists have been highlights.
history, one of its other key attractions – its given free reign with the Most tourists
nightlife – is bang up to date. Among the decor. I found myself beat a path to the
most famous venues is Bed Supper Club crunching my way across my rather seedy streets
(www.bedsupperclub.com), where you can room on silver bubble wrap around Patpong for
dance, or recline to eat and sip cocktails flooring, sitting on a sofa made the ever-popular night


to see Cambodia’s famous Angkor Wat tem-
ples is another great combination.
Here’s a regional round-up of Thailand’s
key resorts:

Andaman Sea
Krabi and Phuket both front the spectacular
island-studded Phang Nga Bay, a scenic
playground of beautiful beaches, caves and
cliffs for lazing, kayaking and snorkelling.
Phuket, Thailand’s most popular resort, is
by far the liveliest of the two. This is the
place to come for big resort facilities, party
action and international fast-food favourites.
The large island, linked to the mainland
by road bridge, has also gained some peace-
ful and stylish retreats in recent years, par-
ticularly on it’s east and north-west coasts.
For divers, Phuket is the gateway to
Thailand’s world-class sites of the Similan
Islands, Surin Islands and Burma Banks.
Quieter Khao Lak, on the mainland just
above Phuket, is even closer.
Classy resorts have sprung up on some of
the islands in Phang Nga Bay, including Koh
Lanta, Koh Racha and day-trip favourite the
Phi Phi islands – famous as the filming site
for The Beach.

Gulf of Thailand
While most of Thailand is best visited in the
winter months, sheltered Koh Samui to the
south of the Gulf of Thailand has an opposite
season. It’s a honeymoon favourite so there’s
plenty of romantic accommodation while
I Elephant riding in northern Thailand family attractions like a training centre for
coconut-picking monkeys are strung along
the island’s loop road. Offshore, you can
market. While I’ve had fun singing along to bites put paid to the mas- tour around Angthong National Marine Park
Tom Jones impersonators at Radio City bar sage marathon I had or linger on neighbouring islands Koh Pha
and snapping up a few bargains here in my planned on my last visit, I Ngan – famous for its full moon parties –
time, for serious browsing I head to still got to make like a celebri- and Koh Tao, a top spot for beginner
Chatuchak. This colossal weekend market ty by having a Bangkok tai- divers.
(also known as JJs), beside the northern lor (most are concentrated Just around an hour’s drive from
SkyTrain stop of Mo Chit, boasts over around Sukhumvit Road Bangkok, brash Pattaya is a party
15,000 stalls. and top hotels) run resort with big-name facilities. Its
You’ll find bargain silk scarves, hand- me up silk skirts seedier side has been somewhat
made candles, wood carvings and ornate and blouses to my cleaned up in recent years and it’s
cutlery sets but half the fun is the spectacle. own designs. a well-established favourite with
This is where Thais shop for anything from The classic families who stay at quieter
furniture to pets to plastic fruit. I once even Thailand holiday Jontiem beach and enjoy nearby
spotted a monk choosing a hamster! combines Bangkok attractions such as water parks,
If you prefer the air-conditioned comfort with a beach and go-karting, an Elephant Village
of a mall, you’re spoilt for choice with giant sometimes a third stop and Sriracha Tiger Zoo.
shopping centres catering for trendy teens to in the green and cul- Golfers flock to Pattaya, too,
the well-heeled clustered around Siam tural North. The as there are several quality
Square and surrounding streets. country is also courses nearby.
The great thing about buying anything in often linked with Hua Hin and Cha Am,
Thailand is that it’s very affordable. This is its neighbours on also within driving distance
one of the few places in the world I can enjoy tours of South East of Bangkok, are quiet neigh-
my favourite indulgences, cocktails and spa Asia. A Thailand hol- bouring resorts favoured by
treatments, on a daily basis. While mosquito iday with a side trip the Thai royal family, while


Chic & boutique I The funky Dusit
In recent years,Thailand’s decorative cultural D2 hotel at Pattaya
traditions have been given a twist and the
country has become something of a hotspot
for chic contemporary design – not least in
its accommodation, with attractive new
boutique hotels making a particular splash.
Just some of the stylish offerings include:
G The funky Dusit D2 brand hotels at
Chiang Mai, Pattaya and, soon, Koh Samui
(www.dusit.com).
G Philippe Starck-designed The Yamu, opening
on Phuket this year with a chocolate room
and a recording studio
(www.theyamu.com).
G Back-to-nature and spa-focused Soneva
Kiri by Six Senses, on the island of Koh
Kood in the gulf of Thailand
(www.sixsenses.com).
G Minimalist The Racha on Koh Racha, off
Phuket (www.theracha.com).
G And the cheery, oriental chintz-themed

Dusit D2
Shanghai Mansion, in Bangkok’s Chinatown
(www.shanghaimansion.com).

the large, up-and-coming island of Koh
Thailand facts Chang offers a mountainous interior and
day-trip possibilities around its 50-plus
When to go: neighbouring islands.
Koh Samui is best from June to September and the rest of

Thailand November to March. Thailand’s North
Not everything worth seeing in Thailand
Visa: comes with a sea view. The country’s lush
UK passport holders do not need a visa for stays up to 30 days. and mountainous North is packed full of
adventure and culture.
Getting there: Thailand’s second city, Chiang Mai, is the
Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.co.uk), EVA Air (www.evaair.com), gateway to the North and is famed for its night
British Airways (www.ba.com) and Qantas (www.qantas.com) fly direct. market, handicraft villages and sanctuaries for
You can also go direct to major resorts on charter flights. elephants that once worked in the logging
industry. Farther north, Chiang Rai is a small-
Tour operators: er hub and close to the Golden Triangle where
UK operators featuring Thailand include: Kuoni (www.kuoni.co.uk),Travel Thailand, Laos and Burma meet in scenic
2 (www.travel2.com), Funway Holidays (www.funwayholidays.co.uk), splendour around the Mekong River.
Jasmine Travel (www.jasmineholidays.co.uk), Premier Holidays, You can trek to visit hill tribes in the
(www.premierholidays.co.uk) and Silverbird (www.silverbird.co.uk). North though the tourist path is pretty well-
worn these days. Soft-adventure experiences
Getting around: like mountain biking and white-water raft-
Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) and Thai Airways ing are also centred in the region as are some
(www.thaiairways.co.uk) have extensive domestic flight networks. good golf courses. To head North in style,
Beat the gridlocked daytime traffic in Bangkok by taking the SkyTrain, take the Eastern & Oriental Express
underground, or river ferries. Iconic three-wheeled tuk-tuks are fun for (www.orient-express.com) from Bangkok
short trips (haggle the price beforehand) but metered taxis (check the to Chiang Mai, or, if you’d rather chill-out
meter is on) are safer and more affordable.Take the less-congested toll somewhere up-and coming, consider the laid

TL
expressways in Bangkok. Cycling tours are offered by Bike & Travel back retreat of Pai in Mae Hong Song
(www.cyclingthailand.com) and Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com). province.
Ferry services and cheap long-tail boat taxis operate to the islands.
A travel journalist for over a decade,
Tourist information: Debbie Ward writes for numerous
Tourism Authority of Thailand: call 0870 900 2007 or visit publications. She has a wardrobe full of Thai
clothing from her many Thailand visits.
www.tourismthailand.co.uk


TRAVEL update

Does my tum look BIG in this?
W
hen it comes to shopping, highlights the trends in the USA’s top five
women are the natural champi- inbound markets: Canada, Germany, Japan
ons. After all, a girl can never and Mexico plus the UK.
have too many shoes. Or dresses. Or hand- Most British shopping travellers are
bags. repeat visitors, it reveals, and good value and
And that lovely, sparkly jewellery is just variety are the most important elements of
perfect for those new outfits... their shopping experience. New York City is
Yet it seems the tables are turned when the top destination for British shoppers, at
we go on holiday to the USA. New research 39%, followed by Orlando (20%) and Las
shows that men outshop the girls once they Vegas (14%).
cross the Atlantic, and by some considerable Shopping accounts for 25% of British
margin, too. visitors’ spending on US trips, averaging
The International Shopping Traveller $968 out of a total trip spend of $3,845.
Study shows that for almost 50% of British G Chelsea Premium Outlets opens its
visitors shopping is either the key reason for Cincinnati Premium Outlets in August and
the trip or is a factor in their choice of desti- has just completed The Promenade exten-
nations – with men representing 56% of sion to Camarillo Premium Outlets, near
British shoppers, compared with just 44% Los Angeles. Extra discounts on labels
for women. such as Hugo Boss, Diesel and Brooks
I Step aside, girls: men are the biggest bargain hunters
The survey, unveiled at the recent Pow Brothers as well as boys toys favourites
Wow international travel trade marketplace company Taubman Centres in partnership Sony and Bose are available by visiting
show in Miami, was commissioned by the with the US Department of Commerce www.premiumoutlets.com and joining
Shop America Alliance and shopping mall Office of Travel & Tourism Industries. It the VIP club.

Flagging up Britain’s Ferry good value – and
Fido can go, too
best beaches Take an Irish Ferries cruise from
Holyhead to Dublin or Pembroke

A
record 184 to Rosslare in July and August and
awards have enjoy a free night and three-course
been given to dinner at Wexford hotel Carlton Millrace and
UK coastal areas in Kildare hotel Carlton Abbey. Prices, from £214
recognition of high qual- per person, include three nights with breakfast
ity under the Blue Flag and return Sunday-Thursday ferry crossings. See
beach award scheme – www.irishferries.com
which is good news for If the dog needs a holiday too, DFDS Seaways
the five million Britons (www.dfds.co.uk) now offers the DEFRA Pet Travel
Valerie Cameron

planning to holiday in Scheme (PETS) on both its Newcastle-Amsterdam
the UK this year. I Thanet’s Blue Flag- and Harwich-Esbjerg routes, with pet travel from
Although this year’s winning Minnis beach £19 each way. Pets, which can include rabbits, mice
72 Blue Flags is down by and rats, must be booked in advance and fulfil the
10 on 2008, mainly due respectively), followed G The Greek island of DEFRA scheme criteria. Call 0871 882 0885.
to flooding, it is still a by Thanet on 11 (seven/ Rhodes has more Blue
huge increase from the four) and, both with 10, Flag beaches than any EARLY BIRDS: Early-bird offers in Funway
45 awarded in 2002. A Southend (three/seven) other European island, Holidays’ expanded 2010 Far East brochure
total of 113 Quality and Scarborough (two/ at 33. Greece is second include a 14-night Thailand tour from £969 per
Coast Awards were also eight). Bournemouth in the world rankings, person this autumn, with three nights in Bangkok
made to British beaches. and neighbouring Poole with 424 Blue Flag and a free city tour, three nights in Chiang Mai and
Top areas, with a total each have four Blue beaches, behind Spain eight in Phuket, with flights, for bookings by
of 14 each, were the Isle Flag beaches. Visit (493). In all, 3,300 September 30. New for 2010 are Vietnam,
of Wight (two Blue Flags www.blueflag.org/uk beaches around the Cambodia, Laos, the Philippines, China, Japan, South
and 12 QCAs) and for a list of all award- world have the presti- Korea and Taiwan. www.funwayholidays.co.uk
Torbay (five and nine winning UK beaches. gious accolade.


TRAVEL update

Maldives
specials
T
he perfect ideal of sun, (approximately £78) per villa
sand and sea, the per night including breakfast.
Maldives are now even www.hilton.co.uk/maldivesirufushi
more accessible – and afford- Nineteen individual houses I Save on stays at stylish Naladhu
able – with a new three-times- make up the stylish and exclu-
a-week winter flight series from sive Naladhu resort, visited by (www.sonevaresorts.com) is offers 28 nights in a Soneva Gili
British Airways and special celebrities such as Wimbledon offering 14 extra nights free on top Villa suite from £6,675 per per-
offers from some of the islands’ champion Roger Federer. On its of a two-week stay, in return for son, including flights and transfers
top resorts. own private island and equipped four days of community work at – saving £5,800 per person.
Book a beach villa at the 52- with antique furnishings and a the Soneva Fushi and Soneva Gili G British Airways also has new
acre Hilton Maldives Iru Fushi personal butler service, you can resorts. Up to December 22, winter services from Heathrow
Resort & Spa private island get 25% off if you book 60 days guests can help by doing things to Las Vegas and from Gatwick
before August 17 to travel in advance. Prices start from including teaching at local schools to Montego Bay (Jamaica),
before August 31 and take $989 per room per night. or hospital volunteer work. Punta Cana (Dominican
advantage of its two-for-one www.naladhu.com Elegant Resorts (01244 897517, Republic), Sharm el Sheikh
offer; prices start from just $129 Soneva by Six Senses www.elegantresorts.co.uk) (Egypt) and Innsbruck (Austria).

I Atlantis,
The Palm Anyone for tennis?
I
nspired by this year’s Wimbledon
championships? Retallack Resort
and Spa, Cornwall’s five-star self-
catering resort, is offering budding ten-
Dubai kids don’t nis stars the opportunity to hone their
game on holiday. A new tennis coach-
need to buy ing programme provided by experi-
enced Lawn Tennis Association-
licensed coaches costs from £4.50 per
For a family holiday with with two paying parents. person for a group lesson or £37 per
a difference this year, Many restaurants also person per hour for private lessons.
take advantage of the have free kids’ meals. Prices start from £600 a week for a
Kids Go Free campaign Dubai attractions are two-bedroom lodge. Visit
in Dubai. From now also offering free entry www.retallackresort.com I Tresco I Flying Boat Club cottages
until September 20, to children under 16, for more details. bedroom
Emirates is offering a among them Sega Tennis is also on beach-front houses on
free return flight to Republic, Dubai offer at the stylish new the site of the old Royal
Dubai for one child Aquarium and Under Flying Boat Club on Naval Air Station.
under 16 travelling with Water Zoo and Dubai the island of Tresco, in Guests have use of the
both parents, and 75 top Ice Rink; while Atlantis, the Scilly Isles. Prestige indoor swimming pool,
hotels, including the The Palm is offering free Holidays is offering a gym, steam room and
Ritz-Carlton, Grosvenor entry to its attractions three-night package there free tennis on the Astroturf
House and One&Only and children can eat this autumn from £315 per courts as well as free golf on
Royal Mirage, are free at any Atlantis person, including return helicopter the nine-hole St Mary’s course.
offering three nights’ restaurant when dining flights from Penzance to Tresco and For more information contact
free stays for one child with an adult. heliport transfers. Prestige Holidays on 01425 480600 or
You can rent one of the 12 luxurious visit www.prestigegrouptravel.co.uk


Music
City of
I Mozart Dinner Concert in St Peter’s Cellar

From Mozart to the von Trapps, there’s no escaping Salzburg’s
musical heritage. With its beautifully-preserved centre and lots
to see beyond it, you don’t have to be music mad to enjoy a
visit – but it helps. Peter Ellegard sings its praises

V
isit the pretty Austrian ing different genres during the year. Hence – a traffic-free pedestrian precinct apart
alpine city of Salzburg its soubriquet, the Festival City. And even if from early-morning deliveries. Tour groups
and you will find it isn’t you’re not a particular fan, there are plenty swarm in front of the building like bees
just the surrounding hills of other things to do and see which make the round a honeypot, and the rest of the street
that are alive with the city a great escape for a long weekend. also throngs with visitors day and night with
sound of music, it is the There’s far more to Salzburg than its ancient buildings, quaint alleys and hid-
whole city itself. Mozart, of course, but the two are inextrica- den courtyards full of cafes and restaurants.
For Salzburg is not only where much of bly intertwined, as visitors soon discover. The cramped building houses numerous
The Sound of Music was set and filmed, but The imposing Hohensalzburg Fortress, exhibits including his original instruments,
it is also where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart which stands guard on a clifftop high above letters and family portraits.
was born, in 1756. the ancient rooftops and church spires, may Mozart’s Residence, the family home
The whole city went Mozart mad three be the city’s most visited attraction, but the from 1773, is a more spacious affair in
years ago to celebrate the 250th anniversary next most popular sites are the two museums Markplatz and was where he wrote a num-
of the birth of its favourite son, with a year- set in Mozart’s homes. And even in the ber of his works. It has also been preserved
long series of concerts, operas, exhibitions fortress you can’t escape the maestro. as a museum to him.
and other events. For those with a real appetite for the great
But even though the celebrations are long Quaint alleys man’s music, you can choose from several
gone, the city is still one of the best places to Mozart’s Birthplace, where he lived for 26 themed dinner concerts during the summer
go if you love music. Salzburg has more years, is in the heart of the old city on its tourist season. The Mozart Dinner Concert
than 4,000 music and theatre events cover- historic, narrow main street, Getreidegasse offers a three-course dinner prepared from
Peter Ellegard

Peter Ellegard
Peter Ellegard

I Hallstatt village I Old Town, Salzburg I Salzburg Cathedral


ESCAPE to…
SALZBURG

city. Many of its magnificent architectural
landmarks were used, and you can take a
Sound of Music Tour to visit outlying vil-
lages, lakes and mountains where other
familiar scenes were shot.
Whether you are a fan of the musical or
not – and I must admit I am not – it is well
worth a visit to nearby Hellbrunn Palace,
one of the settings used in the movie. Its
ornate palace and beautiful gardens are a
delight for all ages, notably for the ubiqui-
tous fountains which spring many surprises
for the unwary. I won’t spoil the surprise,
other than to advise not wearing your
Sunday best and to visit on a warm day
when clothes will quickly dry. We made the
mistake of visiting on a rainy day…

Year-round appeal
Salzburg can be visited any time of year and
the experience will be just as enjoyable. Key
attractions are open year-round and there

Salzburg Tourist Office
are events in all seasons.
In winter, the rooftops twinkle with fresh
snow – a taster of what lies in store at the
many ski resorts less than two hours away –
and the 500-year-old Christmas Market
(Salzburger Christkindlmarkt) livens up the
recipes of the 17th and 18th centuries, served claim to fame revolves around The Sound of Cathedral Square (Domplatz) in the heart of
in the Stiftskeller St Peter (St Peter’s Cellar) Music. A whole new generation of fans has the Old Town from late November with craft
– the oldest restaurant in Central Europe, been created by the latest stage production stalls, choirs, gluhwein and roast chestnuts
first mentioned during Charlemagne’s visit of the musical, currently touring Britain, and and almonds. The annual 10-day Mozart
in 803 – during the intervals of a recital by the successful BBC series, How Do You Week music festival (www.mozarteum.at)
musicians in period costume. Solve A Problem Like Maria?, which made takes place each January, featuring many
Connie Fisher an overnight success, repris- international artists.
High on Mozart ing the role originally made famous by Julie Spring brings crisp days, flowers galore and
My wife and I opted for an alternative din- Andrews.
ner and concert in the 930-year-old Based on pre-war events
Hohensalzburg Fortress, dining on high which happened to the local von
with stunning views across fields and ham- Trapp family, the movie
lets to the nearby mountains, followed by a was filmed in and
Mozart performance in the elegant State around the
Rooms overlooking the city. A magical
experience, made even more special by
the glorious setting sun lighting up the
rooftops, cupolas and towers with
streaks of gold.
Salzburg’s more recent


I Mirabell Palace I Salzburg and the Salzach River


A day trip into Germany’s
Sound of Music country Bavarian Alps can include a
boat trip on Konigsee lake
Fans of The Sound of to St Bartholoma chapel
Music can tour some of and a visit to pretty
the locations in the mountain town
countryside beyond Berchtesgaden with views
Salzburg used in the film, to Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest
which was based on the mountain-top fortress
real-life story of the retreat.
singing von Trapp family. A village north of Salzburg
You can even sing along to has another musical claim
the music as the original to fame.The boatmen’s
soundtrack is played church of St Nicholas in the
during the four-hour tour, village of Oberndorf was
which visits the beautiful where Christmas carol
Salzkammergut lake district. Silent Night was first sung
Highlights include: Salzburg Tourist Office
in 1818.The town was later
Leopoldskron Palace, the moved upstream after a
front exterior of which was lake, as well as the villages devastating flood, but a
used as the von Trapp family of Gosau,Abtenau and Silent Night Memorial
home; Hellbrunn Palace, Golling, and the 9,855-foot Chapel was built on the site
notable for its trick summit of Mount Dachstein, of the original church in
fountains; Fuschlsee lake, Styria’s highest mountain. 1937.A four-hour tour
featured in the film’s Salzburg was founded on takes in the chapel and
opening sequence; the the fortunes of salt, first Silent Night Museum in
pretty village of Gilgen on mined in the nearby nearby Arnsdorf.
the shores of Wolfgangsee mountains by the ancient Zell am See is another
lake; and Mondsee Celts.The 450-year-old popular excursion.A five-
Cathedral, where the Salzwelten Salzburg salt hour trip visits the lake-
wedding scene was filmed. mines at Bad Durrnberg side town and 11th century
Longer tours also visit the are open year-round and a Hohenwerfen Castle, with
World Cultural Heritage guided tour features a raft a cable car ride up to the
Site village of Hallstatt, by ride on a subterranean salt Schmittenhoehe mountain
Peter Ellegard

the shores of Hallstattsee lake. summit.

trees bursting with blossom in and around the vivid reds and yellows of trees adding tlement once stood.
city. And more music, of course. The Salzburg splashes of colour to the city’s majestic Allow plenty of time to explore the won-
Easter Festival (www.osterfestspiele- architecture. The Salzburger Kulturtage derful Old Town area in the heart of
salzburg.at) is an annual celebration of classi- (www.kulturvereinigung.org), a more Salzburg, designated a UNESCO World
cal music and opera. intimate version of the main Salzburg Heritage Site in 1997. Most of it is a traffic-
Summers are usually long and warm, Festival featuring a series of concerts, free pedestrian precinct. I have spent hours
with the odd rainy day. Plus the avant- opera and theatre, takes place in October. wandering through the labyrinth of streets,
garde dance festival, SommerSzene alleyways and squares as well as venturing
(www.sommerszene.net), over 14 days Easy to explore into some of the many stately buildings
in June and July, which also features the- Salzburg is easy to explore, both on foot or which grace the skyline.
atre, films and visual arts as well as music. by bus – and the good-value Besides the Getreidegasse, other lovely
That is followed by the Salzburg Festival SalzburgerLand Card gives free entry to all old streets to amble along, window shop or
(www.salzburgerfestspiele.at), the the city’s major attractions as well as free gaze up at facades include Judengasse,
city’s long-established music and drama travel on the city’s buses and the Goldgasse, Kaigasse, Linzergasse and
festival in July and August which includes Hohensalzburg Fortress cable railway. Steingasse. Their buildings cover the Middle
a concert broadcast on an open-air screen The Salzach River cuts the city into two Ages, Romanesque, Baroque and
in the city’s Kapitelplatz. halves and is spanned by bridges including Renaissance periods, as well as elegant and
Autumn hints at the winter to come the pedestrian-only Mozart, Makart and classical monarchy-era burghers’ houses.
with its cooler days (although October is Mulln footbridges. The left bank comprises You can also take in the Old Town sights on
the driest month) and chilly nights, the the older part of the city where a Roman set- a traditional fiaker horse and buggy.


Salzburg facts
When to go
Any time of year is good to visit Salzburg,
with festivals and events throughout the
calendar. Be prepared for all weathers and
pack a brolly, sweater and warm jacket.

Getting there
British Airways (www.ba.com) and EasyJet
(www.easyjet.com) fly direct to Salzburg
from Gatwick during the summer. Ryanair
Peter Ellegard (www.ryanair.com) flies from Stansted.
Winter charter flights operate for skiers
I Ornate rooftops
heading to nearby resorts.You can also fly to
nearby Munich, with services operated by
BA, EasyJet, Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) and Aer Lingus
(www.aerlingus.com) from London area airports.

Accommodation
There are a number of hotels in the old
part of Salzburg and across the Salzach
River.The Blaue Gans boutique art-hotel
(www.blauegans.at) makes an excellent
base.The oldest inn on the historic
Getreidegasse street, this stylish 74-room
design hotel is set in one of the city’s
oldest houses.

Peter Ellegard
Tour operators
Many operators offer short breaks to
Salzburg, including Kirker Holidays I Residence Square
(www.kirkerholidays.com), Inghams
(www.inghams.co.uk), Crystal (www.crystallakes.co.uk), First Choice
(www.firstchoice.co.uk) and Fregata Travel (www.fregatatravel.co.uk).
I Salzburg has many fine, old buildings
Getting around/attractions
Grand edifices Salzburg is walkable, but it is worth
Squares include Residence Square investing in a SalzburgerLand Card. It
(Residenzplatz) with its ornate equine fountain, combines free entry to 190 sights and
Old Market Square (Alter Markt), University attractions in the city and neighbouring
Square (Universitatsplatz) and Mozart Square SalzburgerLand region, with free use of city
(Mozartplatz), which has a memorial to the buses and discounts off car rental, tours and
musical maestro and a tourist information office. cultural events. A six-day card costs 43
Then of course there are its grand edifices. euros for adults and 21.50 euros for
Besides the Cathedral (Salzburger Dom) and children, with 12-day cards costing 52 and
Peter Ellegard

Hohensalzburg Fortress, must-sees include 26 euros respectively. Buy it online at
the Residence Palace (Residenz), St. Peter’s www.salzburgerlandcard.com, or from
Abbey (Stift St Peter) and its fascinating I Hellbrunn Palace local information centres and some hotels.
cemetery, and Mirabell Palace (Schloss
Mirabell) with its romantic gardens on the Tourist information
right bank of the Salzach. This is one of the Salzburg Tourist Office (Salzburg city): www.salzburg.info
city’s most popular places for taking pictures. SalzburgerLand Tourist Office (Salzburg region): www.salzburgerland.com
But perhaps best of all is to relax with a coffee Austrian National Tourist Office: 0845 101 1818, www.austria.info
or beer in a street-side café/bar or beer garden

TL
and just let the world go by as you gaze out across
one of the world’s most beautiful cities.


all ABOARD
CRUISING FROM THE UK

Home
waters
Forget the hassles of flying off for the
start of your cruise holiday and join the
growing numbers of passengers setting
sail from Britain. The choice of departure
ports and cruise itineraries is
surprisingly large, as Sara
Macefield explains

I Queen Victoria at Southampton

H
ow do you fancy starting no escaping the buzz and anticipation as the
your next holiday from departure time nears and the ship’s band strikes Cruise tips
Southampton, Dover, up for the traditional “sailaway” party on deck. G You can take as much luggage as
Harwich or even Tower The excitement grows as the funnel blasts you want on ex-UK sailings
Bridge? Not only will you and the ship starts to move away from the because there’s no baggage limit,
miss out on the stress and quayside. Passengers waving flags and drink- but remember that it’s got to fit in
hassles of flying and battling through airport ing brightly-coloured cocktails add to the your cabin.
security queues, but you’ll be joining the party atmosphere as they celebrate the start of G Beware the Bay of Biscay. Cruises
growing band of British holidaymakers who a journey which, in some cases, will take from the UK to the Mediterranean
have discovered the benefits of taking a cruise them from UK shores around the world. have to pass through this, so if
from the UK. you’re at all prone to sea-sickness,
After all, what could be easier than load- Where can you go? take precautions.
ing up the car, driving to, say, Southampton There’s never been a bigger choice of cruises G On Med cruises, pick a ship which
and simply stepping aboard? from the UK. has plenty of onboard facilities so
It really is as simple as that. All you need Holidaymakers who don’t want to fly can you won’t get bored on the sea
to do is drive up to the port terminal, hand now choose from a huge variety of different days spent sailing to and from the
over the car keys to a parking attendant and cruise lines and sailings that start at various UK.
check in. points around the country. G If you’re sailing south to the sun,
Don’t worry about struggling on with suit- These can range from a two-night mini- remember to take some warm
cases as they get sent to the cabin separately, cruise to Bruges or Amsterdam right up to a clothes as it can still be chilly in
leaving passengers free to go aboard, settle in three-month world cruise or a transatlantic the English Channel.
and explore. crossing to New York.
The holiday starts immediately, and there’s But the most popular sailings are to the
Cunard


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