Technical Writing Class, final project. (ENG 439)

1. A Guide to
Double Edge
Safety Razor
Shaving
Ryan Stefani

2. A Guide to
Double Edge
Safety Razor
Shaving
Ryan Stefani
2010
Cover photo from aspiringgentleman.com 2010

3. Table of contents
1. Health and Safety………………………1
2. Introduction………………………………2
3. Supplies…………………………………...3
1. The Safety Razor
2. Razor blade
3. Balms, lotions, and aftershaves
4. Shaving soap and cream
5. Brush
6. Mugs and bowls
7. Styptic pencil
8. Other
4. Shaving concepts……………..………..5
5. Pre-shave……………………..........…….7
a. Loading the blade into the razor.
b. Preparing the facial hair
c. Preparing the lather

4. 6. Shave…………………………………………9
a. Concepts to understand before shaving
a. Pass one
b. Pass two
c. Pass three
d. Pass four
7. Post shave….…………………….………13
8. Appendix A: Equipment care ….….…14
9. Appendix B: Online resources…..….16
10. Sources……………………………..….…18

5. Health and Safety
All labels created by warninglabelgenerator.com 2010
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6. Introduction
Throughout the years there has been a need for men around the globe to shave
their face. Early man used anything from seashells to volcanic obsidian glass. In the
early twentieth century a traveling salesman named King Camp Gillette had the idea of
shaving with a disposable double-edged blade (Trex). This started what is known as
double edge (DE) or wet shaving. DE shaving is the process of shaving with a double
edged safety razor, shaving soap and brush.
There are several benefits to a DE shave over the more modern cartridge razors
commonly used today. The first reason is that DE shaving is cheaper than cartridge
razors. “While the razor costs about five times more than the typical multi-blade
cartridge kind, its blades will run about $30 a year, vs. $50 and up for cartridge refills.
Plus, a safety razor lasts a lifetime and looks a heck of a lot better on your bathroom
shelf than a plastic one” (Bigda). This simple change from cartridges to DE can save
you money and landfill space
Because each person has different facial hair characteristics, it is hard to
optimize your shave with cartridges. Many cartridge razors limit your ability to change
the blade’s angle, aggressiveness, and hone which all effect the shave. Because all
double edge razor blades are made to fit all makes and models of safety razors, a greater
customization and quality of your shave can be achieved.
Ideally you should shave every day to keep hair length down and may lengthen
the time it takes to get a “five 0’clock shadow”(Herro). If you shave regularly you may
also be able to reduce the number of passes you need to use everyday, saving time and
effort (Herro). You will not only have a smooth shave but you will have one longer.
As the name implies, a safety razor is a safe way to shave. There is however some
safety concerns to consider. The safety razor is safe in the fact that it limits the amount
of skin in contact with the blade when compared to a straight razor. It is extremely
important then to work slowly and deliberately the first few times you shave. Always
shave in a well-lit room and allow yourself extra the first few times you shave to
practice the technique.
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7. Supplies
The following items are needed for a good DE shave. The four most important
and basic items needed are the razor, razor blade, soap and brush. Because most items
are based on preference and hair characteristics, it is important to shop around before
making a decision. For online resources and retail stores see Appendix B.
The safety razor
The Safety razor is the main piece of equipment for shaving. It is what houses
the razor blade and increases the safety of shaving. Many safety razors can be bought
online at wet shaving or safety razor sites. The second, and more untraditional way to
acquire a safety razor is to find one at an estate sale or antique shop. Many are still in
working condition and only need to be cleaned before use (see Appendix A for
equipment care). The most popular and recommended safety razor for beginners is a
Merkur HD or Merkur Classic safety
razor (Herro). There are many different
types such as adjustable or fixed head and
two or three piece, each with their own
benefits and drawbacks.
The razor blade
Razor blades are created to fit in all
makes and models of safety razors.
Because many companies make different
blades with different hones, it is
recommended to sample blades before
choosing one that works best for you. Fig.1 A butterfly safety razor and universal
razor blade.
Many online retail sites offer razor blade Image source: razoremporium.com 2010
sample packages.
Balms, lotions, and aftershaves
While not necessarily needed for shaving, balms, lotions, and aftershaves are
highly recommended in the shaving process. They help soften the hair before shaving
and hydrate the skin after. Balms, lotions, and aftershaves selection comes down to the
user’s preference for the smell and effectiveness of the balms, lotions, and aftershaves.
3

8. Shaving soap
Shaving soap is a very important item used in wet shaving. It is applied to the
face to soften the facial hair and gives the blade a smooth surface to glide on. Shaving
soap comes in puck or bar forms and can be stored in a bowl or mug during and in-
between uses. The largest benefit from using
shaving soap is that it lasts much longer than
aerosol cans commonly do. The main active
ingredient in shaving soap is glycerin, which
gives the skin a slippery feel to it and moistens
the skin (Westerman). It is important to note
that if shaving soap is used that you will also
need a shaving brush.
Shaving cream
Shaving cream also contains glycerin
Fig.2 A Few of the containers Shaving
and all the other properties of shaving soap. It soaps and creams come in.
is however prepared and applied differently. It Image Source: lugets.com 2010
does not, in some cases, need water when
prepared and can be applied with or with out a shaving brush.
Shaving Brush
Shaving brushes are very important when applying the soap to your face. A
shaving brush is able to retain water and soap, allowing you to create lather straight on
the face. Brushes are made from either boar,badger hair and recently made from
synthetic material. There are many quality classifications for shaving brushes that
vary from company to company. The brushes are labeled from lowest to highest quality
as pure, fine, and silvertip brushes.
Mugs and bowls
Mugs and bowls are used as storage containers for shaving soaps and bars. They
come in many different shapes and sizes but should be large enough to accommodate
your soap. Many shaving mugs are made with overly large handles to assist with
griping the sometimes-wet mug. The recommended diameter for any mug or bowl is 3.5
inches or larger. While you do not need to buy a special mug or bowl for shaving, many
users like the novelty of a shaving mug.
Styptic pencil
Aluminum sulfate barbershop styptic pencil immediately stops bleeding from
razor nicks (West Coast Shaving). This is an important first aid item to have when
first starting out.
4

9. Shaving concepts
Before starting the shave there are a few concepts to grasp that will help you
with the shaving technique. Before you start shaving read this section on concepts and
the steps to shaving (the next few sections).
Center line and passes
The shave itself is made up of multiple passes
made in different directions. Each pass uses the
centerline of symmetry on your face as a reference
point for an even shave, which runs from between your
eyes down through your nose and to your chin. You
should also never shave pass the centerline during a
pass. For example, you should never shave from the left
ear to the nose, and then continue shaving to the right
ear (Herro). Fig.3
Image source: drawing-factory.com
2010
Reduction not hair removal
Because of the multiple passes used in the wet shaving process it is important to
have the mindset of reducing the hair as you shave and not trying to remove all the
hair in one pass (Herro).
Straight blade, curved face
A persons face is made of many different angles and curves A safety
razor however is and cuts in a straight line. It is important to take
small strokes on areas of your face with curves such as the chin and
jaw line. Think of shaving around those curves similarly to drawing
a circle with only straight lines.
Fig. 4 Like a PARABOLIC LINE you must curve around your face in small straight
lines
Image source: electro-tech-online.com 2010
5

10. Proper holding of the blade
There are many ways to hold the safety razor when shaving. No matter what way
you hold the blade, it is important to have complete control of it at all times. You may
need to change your grip multiple times during the shave, but you should always lock
your wrist and move the safety razor with your arm for better control. It is also
important to note that a large emphasis should be put on applying as little pressure as
possible on the blade when shaving. Let the blade do all the work.
Keep a 30-degree angle
When shaving, you should have the blade at a 30-degree angle from your skin. A
great way to practice this is to put your safety razor perpendicular to your skin and roll
the safety blade down until you feel the blade touching your skin. When shaving you
will hear and feel the hair being shaved, if you do not experience this and the hair is
not being shaved, re-check your blade angle and try again.
Fig. 5 The effective 30-degree angle
Image source: badgerandblade.com 2010
6

11. Pre-shave
This is the part of the shave were you prepare the face to be shaved. It is
important to soften the hair and prepare the skin to prevent drying and irritation. The
softer the hair is the smoother the shave will be.
Blade installation
There are two common ways to install a razor blade into a safety razor. Each
way depends on the razor’s design. The first is placing the blade into the top of the
razor into a housing. The second is to place it in between two pieces of the safety blade.
CAUTION
Handling blades can be dangerous.
Only hold the blade in areas were
it is not sharp.
In the picture to the left, sharp
edges are marked in RED and the
safe edges are marked in GREEN.
Fig. 6 A Gillette Double edge razor blade.
Image source: sxc.hu 2010
Preparing the facial hair
Prepare hot water to be used throughout the shaving process.
The facial hair can be cleaned in two ways. The first is to take a hot shower before
shaving and the second is to clean your face with a towel and soap. Cleaning your face
will remove any dirt that may irritate the skin.
1. Apply pre-shave lotion to your facial hair and cover with a hot towel for one
minute.
2. Completely remove towel and wipe pre-shave lotion off.
3. Your skin and hair should be warm and soft to the touch and ready for a shave.
7

12. Prepare the lather
The technique described is one of the many ways create shaving lather. This
technique uses shaving soap applied to the face with a brush.
1. Wet the shaving brush with hot water until dripping wet.
2. Lightly shake off excess water
3. Appling light pressure, swirl the brush on the
shaving soap to collect a thin film on the
brush. The brush should appear soapy.
4. In a swirling action similar to brushing your
teeth, apply soapy brush on all of your facial
hair.
5. Continue to swirl brush until the lather has the
consistency of whipped cream.
NOTE: The lathering process may take up Fig. 7 Applying lather to the face.
Image Source: shavingzone.com 2010
to a minute and a half. If you are not
getting the desired result, try adding a
little bit of water to the brush then
continue to swirl.
6. Set brush down without rinsing the soap out. You will be using the brush
multiple times during the shave.
8

13. The Shave
This is next step is the shave itself. The shave is broken up into passes. The more
passes you do, a closer shave you will get. You may only need to go through one or tow
passes depending on your hair and preference. When first starting out it is advisable to
feel your face between passes to check progress. If you feel that your face is well shaven
after only one pass you can stop with shaving and continue with the post-shave steps.
Pass one
This pass involves moving down the face while the blade is moved from the outside
of the face to the centerline. Think of it like reading left to right. Once you get to the
end of the line you move to the one bellow it. And the end of the page, you start to read
the next page.
1. Apply lather (see pre-shave instructions)
2. Place blade on the highest point on the face
you wish to shave parallel to the ground and
angle the blade at a 30-degree angle.
3. Lightly slide the blade down your face one
short stroke (about a half an inch).
4. Remove blade and place blade on the next
hair to be shaved (toward center line).
5. Repeat steps two (2) through four (4) until Fig. 8 Pass one, down
the face.
you reach the centerline. Then start on the Image source: hubpages.com
next row. 2010
6. Repeat until the whole face has been shaved.
7. Wipe face clean.
Remember
Use both sides of the razor blade. Once one side clogs
up with soap, switch to the other side. After both are
full of soap, rinse under warm water and continue
shaving.
9

14. Pass two
Pass two is a shave from the centerline to the outside of the face. It is important to still
use small strokes and to re-angle the blade before each stroke.
1. Apply lather (see pre-shave instructions).
2. Place blade on the highest point on the face
perpendicular to the ground and at a 30-degree
angle.
3. Lightly slide the blade parallel and across
your face one short stroke (about a half an
inch).
4. Remove blade and place blade on the next
place to be shaved (away from center line).
5. Repeat steps two (2) through four (4) until you
reached the centerline. Then start on the next Fig. 9 Pass two, away
from center line.
row. Image source: hubpages.com
2010
6. Repeat until the whole face has been shaved.
7. Wipe face clean.
10

15. Pass three
Pass three is a shave from the outside of the face to the centerline. The handle
should be pointing towards the centerline.
1. Apply lather (see pre-shave instructions).
2. Place blade on the highest point on the face
perpendicular to the ground and at a 30-degree
angle.
3. Lightly slide the blade parallel and across
your face one short stroke (about a half an
inch).
4. Remove blade and place blade on the next
place to be shaved (toward center line).
5. Repeat steps two (2) through four (4) until you
reach the centerline. Then start on the next Fig. 10 Pass three,
towards centerline.
row. Image source: hubpages.com
2010
6. Repeat until the whole face has been shaved.
7. Wipe face clean.
11

16. Pass four
This final shave will be a shave against the grain of the hair, shaving up the
face.
1. Apply lather (see pre-shave instructions).
2. Place blade on the lowest point on your face
parallel to the ground and at a 30-degree angle
3. Lightly slide the blade up your face one short
stroke (about a half an inch).
4. Remove blade and place blade on the next
place to be shaved (toward center line).
5. Repeat steps two (2) through four (4) until you
reached the centerline. Then start on the next
row. Pass four, up the face.
Image source: hubpages.com
6. Repeat until the whole face has been shaved.
7. Wipe face clean.
12

17. Post shave
This is the end of the shaving experience. This is a good time to apply the styptic
pencil to any nicks or cuts you may have as well as clean all of your equipment. For
more information on equipment care see Appendix A.
1. Wipe all soap from face.
2. Dab the styptic pencil onto any nick or cuts on your face.
3. Cover your face with a cold towel to cool down your face.
4. Apply aftershave, balm or lotion to face.
5. Clean up area and equipment.
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18. Appendix A:
Equipment care
Daily maintenance guaranties that your equipment will last for many years and
give you the best shave possible.
Razor blades
Razor blades should be replaced on a regular basis to insure a consistently sharp
edge for shaving. According to a poll from BadgerandBlade.com, the average amount of
shaves from a single blade double edge blade is about three to six shaves. If the blade is
replaced once a week there should be no trouble in blade sharpness.
Safety razors
These easy to follow steps were found online at artofmanliness.com
1) Pre-soak the razor in some warm water and maybe spray it down with Scrubbing
Bubbles to initially loosen up all the gunk.
2) Use a nylon brush and/or a brass brush to scrub off remaining gunk. Note that a
brass brush with fine/thin bristles is particularly good for cleaning out knurling.
Such a brass brush can be found in the gun cleaning section of your local sporting
goods store.
3) Scrub the razor down with some toothpaste. Whitening toothpaste is
particularly good for polishing up metal.
4) Dry the razor and use a cloth rag to buff it up with some metal polish. Note that
Maas or Flitz metal polish are excellent for this.
5) Use some toothpicks and cotton swabs with some metal polish to clean the tight
nooks and crannies.
6) Scrub the razor one last time with a nylon brush and some dish detergent.
7) As a last measure of disinfecting the razor, dunk it in some blue Barbicide®
solution commonly found in beauty supply stores.
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19. Brushes
Before using a new shaving brush, wash thoroughly using warm soapy water.
After each use the brush should be rinsed under clean, warm water and then dried.
Always place the brush in its holder with the bristles facing down to allow your shave
brush to dry (pioneerheritageshoppe.com).
Fig.10 Brush in stand
Image source: virtual-village.com.au
2010
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20. Appendix B: Online
resources
The following links are online sites specifically made for double edge razor
shaving whether it is an online shop or public forum.
Online retailers
While each of the following online retail sites provide the necessary equipment
to shave with a DE razor, each site ranges in deals, samples and price. It is important
for a DE razor user to shop around to find the best price and fit for each item. Listed
below is a brief description of service the site is known for and an excerpt from their
“about us’ page.
westcoastshaving.com- Known for their razor blade samplers and DE
razor “starter kits”
“West Coast Shaving is a small family run business with a little help from
friends. Our store has evolved from the original double edge sampler packs (yes, WCS
was the first, but that's another story) back in 2006 to WestCoastShaving.com,
launched in 2007. Every year we continue to grow and add products, but always treat
every customer like it was our first. Customer service, value, and products that work
are our focus” (westcoastshaving.com).
fendrihan.com- Can be considered an upscale retailer and carries a
larger range of high quality items than most stores.
“We offer classic and affordable brands, as well as luxurious soaps and creams,
in classic, exotic and inspired scents. Our brand selection features German shaving
staples that have proven true over the centuries, the finest from the London barbering
district, hidden gems from Portugal and Spain, distinguished French purveyors, and
of course our very own Fendrihan wet shaving supplies… Fendrihan exclusive products
have been featured in SHARP Magazine for Men” (fendrihan.com)
vintagebladesllc.com- Known for their quality and traditional shaving
brands.
“Welcome to Vintage Blades! Our focus is exclusively on men’s grooming and
shaving, and we’re pleased to bring you the best selection of wet shaving products
available.
We believe that shaving doesn’t have to be a curse that you have to bear on a daily basis
almost every day of your life if you prefer to have smooth looking skin both for
appearance and for comfort” (vintagebladesllc.com).
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21. Forums
The following site is dedicated for the continuation of knowledge and tips for
DE razor shaving. Always improving your technique and skill is a sure way to get the
best shave possible and it is here to get yourself started.
badgerandblade.com
“Our mission is to provide a fun and informative site covering all aspects of the
manly art of wet shaving, catering to all gentlemen, from beginners to seasoned pros.
Why do we join? Lots of reasons, but for many, disdain for multi-blade and multi-
dollar approaches to one of life's basic tasks leads us here. In the process, shaving
becomes a treasured daily moment away from the rigors of our hectic lives. We become
active members of the B&B community because we are drawn to a better shave, a
community unparalleled anywhere online, and the pursuit of life's finer things, such
as fine food and drink, cigars and other sophisticated pursuits” (badgerandblade.com).
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22. Sources
“30-degree angle” Photo. badgerandblade.com 2010. 21 Nov. 2010
artrush73 “Drawing Male Face Side View” Photo. hubpages.com 2010. 18 Nov. 2010
“Badger Hair Shaving Brush w/ Wood Handle & Holder Stand” Photo. virtual-village.com.au. 2010.
21 Nov. 2010
Bigda, Carolyn “Spend less on a close shave”CNN.com Web. April 29, 2010. 19 Nov. 2010
http://moremoney.blogs.money.cnn.com/2010/04/29/spend-less-on-a-close-shave/
“butterfly with razor” Photo. razoremporium.com 2010. Nov. 2010
“Col Conk Styptic Pencil” WestCoastShaving.com Web. 21 Nov. 2010
“creams and soaps” Photo. lugets.com 2008. 21 Nov. 2010
Friesen, Beth “The shaving brush” pioneerheritageshoppe.com Web. 2010. 19 Nov. 2010
“Gillette blade” Photo. xc.hu 2005. 21 Nov. 2010
Guest “How to Buy and Restore Vintage Shaving Gear” Art of manliness.com Web. August 19, 2010.
18 Nov. 2010
Gugel “face lathering” photo. shavingzone.com12. Jan, 2010. 18 Nov. 2010
“hero face” photo factory.com 2008. 18 Nov. 2010
Luke. “Wet shaving kit” photo. aspiringgentleman.com 16 Nov. 2010. 19 Nov. 2010
Herro, M. “Shaving 101” mantic59.blogspot.com. 18 March 2008. Nov. 2010
“Parabolic line” Photo. electro-tech-online.com 1999. 18 Nov. 2010
Photo. virtual-village.com.au 2010. 18 Nov. 2010.
Trex, Ethan “Shaving history begins with shark teeth” CNN.com August 17, 2009
http://articles.cnn.com/2009-08-17/living/mf.shaving_1_king-camp-gillette-razors-
blades?_s=PM:LIVING
“Warning labels” web. warninglabelgenerator.com visited on 20 Nov. 2010
Westerman, Kaila. “Glycerin” Pioneerthinking.com. 1997. Web. 18 Nov. 2010
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