Travel Lisbon Article Passaport Magazine featuring Nelson Carvalheiro

1. hidden treasure
To tour the streets of Portugal’s Lisbon is to discover an
authentic, evolving and highly underrated European city
Text and photographs Elana Castle
132 HL SEPTEMBER 2012 houseandleisure.co.za

2. LEISURE TRAVEL
R
eminiscent of the romanticism of
Venice, the authenticity of Rome,
the nonchalance of Barcelona and
the bold, designer strokes of Berlin, the
city of Lisbon – the capital of Portugal – is
a richly layered metropolis that can often
be (mistakenly) overlooked by visitors to
Europe. Its iconic blue and white, azulejos-
tiled facades, dramatic ocean-front location,
melancholic fado music, rustic, traditional
fare and brazenly modern developments
make for a heady urban experience.
Fortunately, the city is also a breeze to
explore, given its compact size, easy-to-use
underground system and an original tram
network that traverses the main city routes.
Ipsapienis suite at Palacio Belmonte,
A expliquis ipit pro et etur?
Sediatendest quae. Nequas ide
a historic, boutique hotel in Lisbon,
liatenihitin nescient. Numto its former
lovingly restored volupiciusa
pellor re,glory. OPPOSITEcusda dolore
nis dolore et etus Electrico 28
aciet molorem con cone rehent. Ullanda
is a popular tram that plies many
ecerum quatem estectotat.city’s key routes.
of the Deruptam, eos
moloribus ad quo magnis

3. BAIXA of the area’s original communities and Moorish, Roman and
Although many of its neoclassical buildings are in dire need Visigoth history. Its charming, meandering streets are lined
of restoration, Baixa remains one of Lisbon’s most striking with tascas – simple cafés – that offer traditional fare (grilled
districts. The area is defined by two grand urban gestures cod is a perennial favourite), boutiques and antique stores.
– Praça do Comércio, a public square, and Arco da Rua The area is also home to three of the city’s historical
Augusta, a triumphal arch that frames the main shopping landmarks – Lisbon’s cathedral, the Sé; Igreja de Santa
thoroughfare. Baixa is also the new home of MUDE (mude.pt), Engrácia; and, most significantly, the Castelo de São Jorge,
Lisbon’s design and fashion museum, a symbol of the city’s a thickly walled fortress that was established in the sixth
emerging creative scene. The museum’s intentionally raw shell century. The best time to visit is late afternoon, when you
forms an appropriate canvas for the designer objects can enjoy a quiet wander around the courtyards and
and haute couture on display. a dramatic sunset from the ramparts. As evening descends,
you’ll be well placed to explore the modern, river-front
CHIADO shopping and restaurant precinct near Santa Apolónia
A walk westwards brings you to the refined, boutique-rich Station. Even actor John Malkovich is in on the action,
area of Chiado. The area centres around shopping as part-owner of Lux, one of Lisbon’s hippest clubs.
thoroughfare Rua Garrett, Armazéns do Chiado mall and STAY Palácio Belmonte (palaciobelmonte.com)
Café A Brasileira (cafe-abrasileira.com), the stomping ground
of Lisbon’s intellectuals. Snap up gourmet food products or BELÉM
vintage-style wares at Casa Pereira and A Vida Portuguesa Many of the world’s greatest seafaring adventurers were
(avidaportuguesa.com), but spare some precious currency Portuguese and a visit to Belém, a mere 30 minutes from
for a pair of butter-soft leather items from glover Luvaria Lisbon, provides a powerful visual display of Portugal’s power
Ulisses (luvariaulisses.com). The area’s crowning glory and wealth during the Age of Discovery. It was from here that
is Elevador de Santa Justa, a historic elevator that offers the likes of Bartolomeu Dias, Ferdinand Magellan and Vasco
panoramic views of the city. Foodies shouldn’t look past da Gama set sail. The Maritime Museum is worth a visit and
Cantinho do Avillez (cantinhodoavillez.pt), celebrated is conveniently adjacent to Belém’s historic and architectural
chef José Avillez’s contemporary bistro. jewel, Jerónimos Monastery. A UNESCO World Heritage Site
STAY Hotel do Chiado (hoteldochiado.com) built to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s epic journey, the
monastery was named after the order of monks who lived
BAIRRO ALTO there. Additional worthwhile destinations include The Coach
Continuing westwards, you’ll then find yourself perfectly Museum, Belém Tower and The Berardo Collection Museum.
placed to explore the 16th-century, working class, bohemian A fitting way to end your visit is to indulge in Pasteis de
neighbourhood of Bairro Alto. The area is known for its Belém, the Holy Grail of Portuguese desserts, at the azulejos-
intimate, graffitied – and often inconveniently camouflaged tiled, Antiga Confeitaria de Belém.
– bars and fado houses. Primarily a night-time haunt, you get
the distinct feeling that the area is evolving, the smattering of PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES
avant-garde clothing boutiques and art galleries a sign of things When Lisbon hosted Expo ’98, it embarked on a complete
to come. As expected, food options abound, the most notable redevelopment of the northeastern portion of the city,
eateries being 100 Maneiras (restaurante100maneiras.com), collaborating with some of the world’s most innovative
Antigo 1° de Maio and Flores at the Bairro Alto Hotel. Savour architects and urban planners. As a result, the area is host to
an after-dinner cocktail at the hotel’s rooftop bar and then hit some of the boldest architecture and urban planning in Lisbon.
A Tasca do Chico, A Capela or Xafarix after dark to listen to The area is easily reached via the metro, which conveniently
some of the city’s best local musicians. stops at the striking Santiago Calatrava-designed Oriente
STAY Bairro Alto Hotel (bairroaltohotel.com) Station. Area highlights include a state-of-the-art oceanarium,
water gardens, a river-front marina, The International Fair
ALFAMA Complex, a viewing tower and a cable car that travels the full
The winding roads, tiled facades and whitewashed buildings length of the site. Design lovers will spend most of their time
of medieval Alfama miraculously survived the Great Lisbon inspecting Alvaro Siza’s architectural masterpiece, the Pavilion
Earthquake of 1755. As a result, the district is a living remnant of Portugal, a true feat of engineering.

4. LEISURE TRAVEL
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT Sé Cathedral;
a peacock at Castelo de São
Jorge; cable cars at Parque
das Nações; Portuguese Vinho
Verde; restored antique chairs
and original azulejos in Palácio
Belmonte; visit Casa Piriquita
in Sintra for desserts such as
travesseiros; the Arco da Rua
Augusta. OPPOSITE An
aerial view of Rossio Square.
houseandleisure.co.za HL SEPTEMBER 2012 135

5. INSIDER SCOOP
Nelson Carvalheiro is a travel and food enthusiast who
manages luxury boutique hotels in Lisbon and Sintra.
Favourite market? Feira da Ladra, an open-air flea market in
Alfama, where you can find almost anything. Best place for
breakfast? Confeitaria Nacional (confeitarianacional.com)
in Baixa – the oldest confectionary in Lisbon. Best spot for
a romantic dinner? 100 Maneiras. Avoid touristy fado houses,
where the fado produced is like a bad show from the 1980s.
My favourite traditional dish is seafood rice cooked in a stew of
peppers, tomatoes, chillies and coriander. Pair with Vinho Verde.
Best budget buy? Portuguese wine. A good place to escape
the hustle and bustle is Belém. Don’t leave Lisbon without
sunset sailing on the Tagus River with skipper Filipe Avillez Paixão
(sailing-point.pt). The city’s best-kept secret is its A Baiucas
restaurants – they’re tiny, authentic and family-run. The food is
basic and unpretentious but the real draw is the fado. Any other
tips? Electrico 28. The tram rumbles right through the city. Hop on
and hop off when you see something interesting, as there will be
another one along in 10 minutes. I love Lisbon because it’s the
only European capital where you can step directly onto a beach,
eat the freshest seafood and enjoy sunshine 300 days of the year.

6. LEISURE TRAVEL
DAY TRIP: SINTRA
Famously called ‘glorious Eden’ by
the poet Lord Byron, and a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, Sintra is a lush, hilly
village dotted with fairy-tale palaces,
majestic vistas, private mansions and
quality museums. It’s a mere 45-minute
train journey from Lisbon and is an
absolute must-see.
VISIT
Palácio Nacional da Pena
(parquesdesintra.pt)
Quinta da Regaleira (regaleira.pt)
Palácio Nacional de Sintra
(pnsintra.imc-ip.pt)
Moor’s Castle
EAT
Queijadas de Sintra and travesseiros
at Casa Piriquita
GSpot Gastronomia
STAY
Lawrence’s Hotel (lawrenceshotel.com)
Palácio de Seteais (tivolihotels.com)
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A tower at Palácio Nacional da Pena,
Sintra’s iconic, fairy-tale palace.
OPPOSITE FROM TOP An
aerial perspective of Chiado from
the viewing platform at Elevador de
Santa Justa; manicured grounds at
luxury hotel, Palácio de Seteais.
houseandleisure.co.za HL SEPTEMBER 2012 137