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Vintage
Press pack




            Lettres De Châteaux
               Marie-Stéphane Malbec
      12, rue d’Enghien - 33000 Bordeaux
     ms.malbec@lettres-de-chateaux.com
              Tel.: +33 (0)5 56 44 63 50
Contents
2012 vintage in Bordeaux	
Irritating, late, complex, original, technical…                             3
Château Talbot, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Saint-Julien 	                    5
Château de Lamarque, Haut-Médoc	                                            8
Château Paveil de Luze, Margaux                                            11
Château Marquis de Terme, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Margaux                14
Château Belle-Vue, Château de Gironville, Crus Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc et
Château Bolaire, Bordeaux Supérieur, Haut-Médoc                            17
Château Cantemerle, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Haut-Médoc	                  19
Château Sénéjac, Cru Bourgeois,Haut-Médoc                                  20
Château de Rouillac, Pessac-Léognan	                                       21
Château Carbonnieux, Grand Cru Classé, Graves                          	   23
Château de Pressac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé         		              25
Château Soutard, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé                            26
Château Grand Corbin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé                       27
Château Canon Pécresse, Canon Fronsac			                                   28

2012 vintage at Sauternes
Complex harvests, low yields and drastic selection will undoubtedly
result in some very fine wines!                                     29
Château Guiraud, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Sauternes	                      31

2012 vintage in Côtes de Gascogne
Domaine d’Arton, Côtes de Gascogne                                         34

2012 vintage in Languedoc-Roussillon
Vignobles Lorgeril, Languedoc-Roussillon 				                              36

2012 vintage in Provence
Château Lauzade, Côtes de Provence                                         38

2012 vintage in Bandol
Domaine de La Bégude, Bandol                                               39

2012 vintage in Bourgogne
‘‘2012: a rare and precious vintage in Burgundy’’                          40
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne                                              41

2012 vintage in Champagne
Champagne Philipponnat                                                     42

2012 vintage in Lebanon
Château Marsyas                                                            44
                                                                           2
The 2012 Vintage in Bordeaux
Irritating, late, complex, unpredictable, technical…


At first, a year full of challenges, followed, later, by some pleasant surprises; Bordeaux’s
2012 vintage should be labelled too hastily. It requires very careful analysis.


If you listened to everyone, you could easily get lost in speculative semantics because
everyone has his or her take on this vintage. It was infuriating (for the wine-makers);
uneven (for consumers); very successful (for the dry white wines); jealous (for the
sweet white wines). And so it goes on. Perhaps we should just stick to comments
from oenologists at the Gironde Chamber of Agriculture: ‘2012 is a decidedly good
vintage.’


A good vintage, of course, does not mean a great vintage. Overall, Bordeaux wines
did better than in 2011, though nothing to compare with 2009 and 2010. Nature is
not generous every year and apart from the wonderful, salutary month of August, the
weather tested wine makers’ nerves to the limit. Much rain and a cool July caused
late although not necessarily flawed ripening.


The best results will be found in the dry whites: perfectly balanced, fruity, aromatic
and with the livliness that fresh acidity brings. The same is true for the rosés, which
don’t have the hot, heavy character of very warm years and which will make pefect
drinking over what promises to be a good summer in 2013.


Unfortunately, the sweet white wines were not so consistent. In Sauternes it was
“demanding yet surprising”, with small yields, variable quality and some resounding
successes.


For the reds, the virtues of a Merlot-Cabernet blend and the contribution of varieties,
such as Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, enabled skilled wine makers to
make up for the damage from coulure, oïdium, millérandage, mildew, botrytis and
humidity. 2012 is unquestionably a technical vintage, where vignerons had to be ever

                                                                                      ...      3
vigilant in the vineyard against fungus, disease and pests, as well as being careful
and attentive in the winery.


And on this point, it is useful to remember the contribution of new techniques and
progess in oenology, which have come out of the Bordeaux Institute and the decisive
work it has been doing since the end of last century. In 2012, they truly demonstrated
what a difference they can make.


2012 then is the vintage of the bon vigneron who, through incessant work, skill
and experience made good wine, overcoming all the difficulties of a complicated,
demanding and capricious year.


For all these reasons 2012 is a «decidedly good vintage” and the fine terroirs will
provide wine lovers with first-class, balanced wines that reflect the classic Bordeaux
style.




                                                                                     4
Christian Hostein,	
Vineyard Manager at Château Talbot,
Grand Cru Classé in 1855, Saint-Julien


It’s the end of the year and time to take stock. The tension has gone. Winter work
and routine have returned to the vineyard. The new wine is in new oak and we can
begin see what this vintage will be.


The first question might be,»where did all these extraordinary vats of Cabernet
Sauvignon come from?», because at first glance, the weather was really not ideal.


A cold, rainy winter (the coldest in 30 years), followed by a cool, rainy spring led to
capricious flowering and imperfect fruit set. The result was what appeared to be a small
harvest, similar to 2002, with lacklustre Merlot and light Cabernet Sauvignon.


The beginning of summer also fell way short of expectations and we had to wait until
August to finally enjoy sustained, hot, dry weather, which continued until the onset
of a heat wave. During this period, a few of the most exposed grapes, those at the
ends of the rows, that get most exposure to the afternoon sun, actually got slightly
burnt.


September promised to be good. We harvested the Sauvignon Blanc on September
12th and 13th, then the Semillon on the 17th, with fine freshness and exotic aromas
mixed with white peach and pear.


Until then, all was well and the cumulative temperature level was close to that of
2010. Perhaps it was all going to work out?


However things started to go very wrong in the second half of September, with
significant rainfall. The berries were swollen and water reached the roots. Botrytis
cinerea, our staunch enemy that had been prêtty absent up to that point, literally
exploded in early October. Picking the Merlots from October the 1st to the 3rd
proved a good bet, producing expressive grapes, not over-mature but with excellent
concentration and good sugar-acidity balance.


We then decided to halt harvesting for 6 days. We lived in a sort of sauna and sleep

                                                                                  ...      5
became impossible with humidity approaching 100% and night-time temperatures
of 18°C. Cep mushrooms were popping up in all the nearby fields ‒ some people
were even harvesting them with scythes! Not a good omen.


Finally we started picking again. The ever-sensitive Petits Verdots were giving cause
for concern and we harvested them all within a day.


The Cabernets Sauvignons were next. We had to make a difficult decision and give
priority to bringing in the grapes on the plateau at peak maturity at the expense of
other areas of the vineyard. The skins were fragile, but the phenolic potential was
there and although they will produce limited quantities, these will be complex, totally
classic Bordeaux wines.


Here at the heart of the plateau on the finest terroirs, water that is harmful in excess,
acts like a buffer on a piece of fine silver. Everything is smooth, well-defined and
round, no rough edges! These old vines are well nigh perfect. Their fruit is a testament
to the work of everyone on the estate, in a decidedly Médoc climate. Exhausted and
washed out, we finished harvesting on October 16th.


Today the malolactic fermentations are nearly complete and by Christmas the wines
will be stored safely in new barrels. In January the blendings will begin, that fine
alchemy between our palates and our instincts; they will be critical for this difficult
vintage, although my feeling is elegance should win through.


Rainfall:
   January : 43 mm - February : 3 mm (snow) - March : 25 mm - April : 188 mm
            May : 39 mm - June : 71 mm - July : 42 mm - August : 12 mm
            September : 60 mm - October : 128 mm - November : 84 mm


First Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon flowers: May 29th


Mid-flowering: June 4th


                                                                                   ...      6
Beginning of leaf thinning operations: June 25th


Harvest:	       Sauvignon Blanc: September 12th and 13th
		              Sémillon: September 17th
		              Trial of géo box for the reception of grapes at the winery: September 	
		              27th and 28th
		              Merlot: October 1er, 2nd and 3rd
		              Petit Verdot: October 9th
		              Cabernet Sauvignon: from October 10th to 16th


December 2012




                                                                                      7
Marie-Hélène et Pierre-Gilles Gromand d’Evry,
Co-owners of Château de Lamarque,
Haut-Médoc


I described the last three vintages - 2009, 2010, 2011- as ‘wine maker’ vintages.
In describing 2012, I am reminded of professor Peynaud’s motto, “You make good
wines with good grapes.” Wine makers were only able to prepare the quality of
the 2012 crop by making the right growing decisions during a year of hide and
seek with the weather.The harvest sun did the rest…transforming the grapes into an
exceptional or very fine vintage.


All year long, as in every vintage, it was the wine maker’s close scrutiny and intelligence,
which produced healthy, mature and plentiful grapes. Still, rainfall and temperatures
during the 2012 harvest proved complex. This year’s weather conditions were nothing
like those of the past three years and in the end, it was the weather at harvest time
that characterised the vintage.


The almost tropical climate we lived through in late August, with some hot and (thank
God) dry periods, had us on a knife edge until October 1st, when we began picking.
We finished on October 19th.


From then on the vigneron needed all his wine maker skills. We had to wait for
each variety, on each plot to reach the right balance: pH. theoretical degree, acidity
and…perfect condition. We took maximum risk, certainly, and we also needed the
capability to act quickly in the vineyard as well as in the winery.


This year we picked by hand and by machine. We used a state-of-the-art harvesting
machine (it has no de-stemmer, to avoid tearing the grapes) to pick the first Merlot. We
then picked the remaining Merlot by hand and the Cabernet Sauvignon mechanically.
The Cabernet Franc and all the Petits-Verdot were harvested manually.


We employed something of a ‘strike force’ strategy to harvest at optimum balance
and optimum condition and crucially, we also had to bring-in extra sorting teams to
check the grapes on arrival in the winery.


Until the 2011 vintage, our draconian sorting had been done, after de-stemming,

                                                                                      ...  8
on a 5-meter vibrating table by a team of 8 trained people. The grapes were then
crushed before vatting. But this method, however excellent, was slow and led us to
run risks with regard to the pace of harvest.


For a few years we had studied various sorting methods to improve work and speed
and, last spring, we opted for the optical Defranceschi ‘X-TRI’, a machine already in
service with some of our celebrated neighbours (La Lagune, Leoville Las Cases…)
It combines both high quality sorting (cameras analyse chlorophyll rate according
to set criteria) and speed. In view of conditions in 2012, it was a good investment
and we were able to harvest, stop and resume operations precisely at the pace
we desired. As I said earlier, the objective was to wait until the last moment then
intervene quickly, according to the plot and the grape variety.


Although unplanned, we should also add that we placed a supplementary vibrating
table just outside the ‘XTRI’ before crushing, to do a final, two-person check and
manual sorting - just-in-case.


Vinification was relatively easy and the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations went
well:
Pressing: one spinning and two pressings
Yield: 37 hl/ha
Alcohol: circa 13.3°
Tannin: average IPT 72
Acidity: 3.4g/l
…in short: good balance.


Grape Varieties Château de Lamarque 2012:
45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 12% Petit-Verdot.
The Cabernet Franc with the young Merlot went into in the D de Lamarque.


We blended with the help of oenologists Jacques and Eric Boissenot and produced
80% ‘Grand Vin’ (Château de Lamarque) and 20% ‘second wine’ (D de Lamarque).

                                                                               ...   9
All the 2012 went into barrel from mid-November 2012 until mid-January 2013. We
used 5 French barrel makers. The barrels were medium toasted. We used 45% new
oak, 40% barrels of one wine, 15% barrels of two wines


Today, February1st 2013, Château de Lamarque 2012 is a brilliant, deep garnet-red
colour. The nose is still discreet and slightly dominated by the oak, with aromas of
black fruit (blueberry, blackcurrant). On the palate, it has good balance and structure
and is very dense with fine fruit and persistent tannins - a wine that reflects all the
efforts made by the estate throughout 2012 in the vineyard, as well as wise decisions
taken during harvest. It is a classic vintage, reminiscent of 2006.


February 2013




                                                                                          10
Frédéric de Luze
Owner of Château Paveil               de   Luze,
Margaux


After a mild start to winter, February saw two weeks of record-breaking cold weather
in the Bordeaux region.


The rainy spring unfortunately caused significant coulure, generating small yields and
considerable variation, mainly in the Merlots.


Summer finally arrived in mid-July. Along with the first leaf removal operations on the
east-facing side of the vines, we decided to start thinning-out to remove any rare
clusters of rot within the bunches.


August was hot and dry, though not excessively so and at this point we were all
looking at the prospect of a good vintage.


Despite the improvement in the weather, however, the véraison was uneven, requiring
a second green harvest to give the grapes chance to reach perfect maturity. The
inconsistent véraison confirmed that the harvest would be late, with the risk of
unpredictable weather. Even more so than in previous years, it was abundantly clear
that the condition of the grapes would be the deciding element.


The dreaded equinox rains came right on cue, heralding a change in the weather
that lasted from mid-September right up to the end of the harvest.


Mild temperatures and alternating periods of sun and scattered showers were
stressful to say the least but it was worth keeping one’s nerve because, in fact, the
grapes were ripening, slowly but surely.


Despite adverse weather conditions and the presence of botrytis, all our efforts in
the vineyard were paying off. This was confirmed by the fact that the all important
visit from our oenologists, Stéphane Derenoncourt and Simon Blanchard, was not
programmed until September 20th.


Stress levels rose again over the next two weeks. Lots of growers were harvesting

                                                                                 ...      11
in the Bordeaux region, but we felt we had to wait, not wanting to risk compromising
this year’s efforts. We tasted the grapes in the vineyard on October 4th and finally
decided to harvest the following Monday.


Nineteen days later than last year, the red Merlot on the Pont Rouge plot were the
first to be harvested; the first vats looked encouraging, heralding a vintage with good
balance. Two days after, we attacked the Paveil Merlots. Conditions proved difficult
but somehow we managed to harvest between showers. Here again the newly-filled
vats gave off very attractive red fruit aromas.


On October 11th it was time to bring in the Cabernets, first the Cabernet Franc, then
the Sauvignon. The weather had hardly improved although we kept harvesting and
thanks to the continued ripening of the Cabernet Sauvignon, we looked forward to a
pretty calm end to the harvest.


The result was a vintage with fine maturity, picked between October 8th and 16th
and in record time for the estate.


Berry-tasting revealed good ripeness and wonderful potential, encouraging us
to extract softly and stagger pumping-over to respect the grapes as much as
possible.


Post-fermentary maceration took place at high temperature, in order to obtain plenty
of fat and ripe tannins. When the wines were run-off, they were aromatic with soft
and elegant structure.


Tasting notes (newly run-off wines):
•	     Paveil Merlot:
Red fruit, raspberry, redcurrant nose with the typical smoky hints that are the
expression of gravely soil. The palate is sweet, round, at once creamy and dense.
Good, silky tannins on the finish.



                                                                                 ...  12
•	     Paveil Cabernet Sauvignon:
Redcurrant, rose and raspberry nose. Clean, firm front palate followed by fine but
tight tannins on the mid palate. Very long, aromatic finish.


February 2013




                                                                                     13
Ludovic David,
Technical Manager at Châteaux Marquis                            de   Terme,
Grand Cru Classé in 1855, Margaux


2012 Vintage, first impressions


A wine maker’s vintage: rainy spring, summer drought and a hot, wet October!


The rain has finally stopped!!!!! We have just completed harvesting and the sun has
returned to the Bordeaux sky. The vineyards are still beautiful, scarcely touched by
tinges of autumn red.


What a strange vintage. The grapes took an eternity to ripen, leaving us with endless
questions on when to pick them.


As in all good stories, everything began well at the beginning of the year. A cold, rainy
winter and a mild, rainy spring created a superb leaf canopy, the like of which we had
not seen for 5 years and periods of sun and rain favoured regular, vigorous growth.
The first problems appeared during flowering which, due to alternating periods of
damp and warmth, was very patchy and uneven. Disease (mildew and oïdium) tested
our skills in vineyard management to the full.


The rain, however, also encouraged the spread of mugwort, purslane and chickenwort,
as well as ray grass, demonstrating renewed soil vitality, since we stopped using
herbicides in favour of tilling the soil between rows and plants.


Stopping systematic application of insecticides and choosing to limit treatments
has produced large quantities of typhlodromus (natural predators of insects that
devastate vines) and meant that wildlife has returned. All of this is very encouraging
and is the result of a three-year commitment plan to protect the environment by
using organic methods. Today, this means that our choice of viticulture is making the
best of our fine terroir and year after year it is re-establishing it bio balance.


A dry summer from July to early September (less than 5 mm rainfall) slowed down the


                                                                                     ... 14
ripening proces but lots of sunshine and a warm September confirmed the vintage’s
potential.


Rain in late September is rarely welcome but since the vines had been prepared by
numerous leaf removal operations, we actually saw an accelaeration in ripening on
several plots thanks to some much needed water.


With our eyes glued to various Internet weather forecasts, we continued to prepare
for the harvest. From September 24th until 27th there was a serious deterioration in
weather conditions including a rare phenomenon in Bordeaux: a week of tropical-
like weather where daytime temperatures reached 25°C-28°C and 90% humidity
- perfect conditions for our old enemy, botrytis cinerea. We spent the time waiting
to pick by visiting to each plot. Our aim: to assess ripeness and not to panic about
rot!


In the end, the Merlot were beautifully ripe and harvested on October 9th,10th and
11th, as we had taken into account the late véraison these turned out to be the
exact dates we’d planned for, for over than a month, The very good Petit Verdot was
harvested on October 12th and showed good fruit and power.


We were not so lucky with the Cabernet Sauvignon. In my opinion we harvested 10
days too early, but we couldn’t wait any longer, as the forecast was for rain, wind,
unsettled conditions and cool temperatures. Indeed, the following weekend, the
weather was wet, windy and cold validating, if need be, our decision to pick when
we did.


So what was the result? What sort of quality did we produce? With the vinification
process under way, these are the questions we ask ourselves each year at this
time. when our exacting work as œnologists and our knowledge of the terroir now
come into play in the winery: singling out batches, selecting wines, working each vat


                                                                               ...  15
carefully and never using a ‘system’ to vinify but looking to exploit the potential of
each vat.


Now that the alcoholic fermentation in the first batches is complete and maceration
is underway our expectations are confirmed: beautiful Merlots and slightly tight
Cabernets with great finesse and elegance.


Nothing came easy in this vintage but hard work and tough choices in the vineyard
and the winery paid off. 2012 is a fine example of a wine maker’s vintage, where
quality was down to us making the right decisions.


The potential is there and careful ageing will refinine and marry the raw material. But
already we feel confident that this new vintage will sit perfectly in the elegant and
charming style and tradition of Marquis de Terme wines.


November 2012




                                                                                      16
Jean-Michel Marle, General Manager,
at Château Belle-Vue, Cru Bourgeois, Haut Médoc,
at Château de Gironville, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc
and Château Bolaire, Bordeaux Supérieur


Vine cycle in 2012:
A long, hard winter frost was followed by mild weather. Growth occured in spurts and
budburst was quick and even. There was then a surge in growth (and the spread
of disease, much more sustained than in 2007), with a temporary halt in growth in
June. Conditions during flowering were mediocre, limiting fertilisation and impacting
on yields. The Merlots and Petit Verdots were particularly affected but the Cabernets
made up for this. There were plenty of bunches although they were smaller than
usual.


Strong and weak points
•	       Uneven ripening. Rainy weather meant a lot of work to the canopy (leaf
thinning, cleaning…).
•	       Luckily favorable weather in September allowed us to prepare for the
harvest.


On the whole it was a year that favoured late-ripening varieties. 2012 produced
lovely Cabernets despite the threat from disease, especially botrytis.


Dates and harvest operations
13 consecutive days, from October 5th to October 17th.
Harvesting was continuous and weather conditions were variable, ranging from
damp to dry and sunny in the space of one day.


The year’s characteristics
Very short harvest period, with a real need for sorting. We were immediately struck
by the beautiful colour. The risk of dilution due to rainfall was offset by bleeding the
vats and the result was concentrated, fresh wines.


2012 style
The wines are open with pleasant fruit, good tannic structure and intense colour.


                                                                                  ...      17
Which other vintage does it remind you of?
2008 and 2009. In many ways it’s a 2008 ‘plus’.


«A very technical wine-making year. An intense harvest was followed by intense
vinifications that required the utmost skill and control of all parameters in the vineyards
and the winery.»
                                              Maximilien Delemotte,Vineyard Manager.


«An incredibly intense vintage, full of surprises. Fortunately, our efforts paid off.»
                                         Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, Technical Director.


«Once again, nature and climate were the determining factors. Every day the teams
had to adapt their strategies and techniques to get the best out of our grapes.»
                                                            Jean-Michel Marle, Director.


January 2013




                                                                                              18
Philippe Dambrine,
Manager of Château Cantemerle,
Grand Cru Classé in 1855, Haut-Médoc


The vine cycle:
Budburst occurred in mild, dry weather between March and April. Then, with the
arrival of a cold, wet front, the weather changed, disrupting growth in the young
vines until early May.


June flowering and early July véraison took place in cool weather, affecting volumes.
At that stage, late vine development indicated a late harvest however, the dry, sunny
weather that followed throughout August and September allowed the vines to make
up for lost time.


Harvest:
After a few scattered showers in late September, harvesting took place from October
1st to 16th, The Merlot was brought in in warm sunshine but the rain returned on
October 7th, forcing us to speed up picking.


The keys to success in 2012:
On the whole it was a complicated year, perhaps one that people might call a “wine
maker’s vintage”. The fight against seasonal vine disease was thus decisive in
bringing perfectly healthy grapes into the vats. The choice of dates for harvesting
and our ability to regulate the rhythm of work in the vineyard (harvesting, sorting after
de-stemming, vat room intake management…) were also prerequisites for obtaining
the best results in 2012.


Style:
Initial tastings reveal balance and harmony. The colour is deep and there are lots of
intense primary aromas. On the palate, the wines are soft, round and full, with no
hollowness on the mid-palate or harshness. The unusual power of recent vintages will
probably give way to finesse this year but the 2012 wines will certinly give pleasure
in a few year’s time, just as the 2001s and 2004s are doing now.


January 2013


                                                                                            19
Damien Hostein,
Technical Manager at Château Sénéjac,
Haut-Médoc


We are in the winery, blending the various lots for Sénéjac’s 2012 vintage.
How would I sum up the year gone by? Dodging the showers.
This vintage, the first for me at Sénéjac, was difficult. Indeed, the year was marked
by rain at each key stage of the vine’s vegetative cycle.


•	     April: 153 mm
•	     May: 50 mm
•	     June: 85 mm


This caused coulure in the Merlot, but above all led to significant variation in the
bunches at flowering, to the extent that when we carried out maturity assessments
before the harvest, we saw different stages of ripeness on the same plot and even
on the same vine plant.


Today, it is clear that Sénéjac will be a good vintage, which in a few months, I hope,
will delight the “primeur” tasters. This is largely thanks to choosing the harvest dates
with care, and then sticking to them!


A few dates:
•	     28th September: picking of the young Merlot
•	     2nd, 3rd and 5th October: harvesting of Merlot from the plateau
•	     4th October: picking of the Cabernets Franc, no room for error!
•	     October 8th: harvesting resumed with the Cabernet Sauvignon and finished,
on October 15th with the rows of old Cabernet on the Sénéjac plateau that had
withstood the excessive rain.


2012 is ending with the vineyard teams working once again in the rain and waiting
for drier days in January to bring smiles back to their faces. One thing is certain, we
will all be ready for the next adventure… 2013.


December 2012




                                                                                         20
Jean-Christophe Barron,
Technical Manager at Château                  de   Rouillac,
Pessac-Léognan


Vintage 2012: Angel or Devil?


You remember some vintages with a sense of calm and tranquility. They’re like a
gentle, comtemplative horeback ride through the woods. We’ll remember 2012 as
the toughest three-day event or a round of show-jumping at the Olympics, requiring
concentration, timing, agility and poise.


After coming through the harsh winter of 2012, the vineyard burst into life thanks to
a warm, dry March. In early April, a spring frost took a few buds and with them a part
of the harvest, we avoided this ‘weather trap’ by using wind turbines and mobilising
of the entire vineyard team. The rest of the month was very wet, gorging the soil with
water.


Hot weather in May enabled very rapid vine development in ideal conditions (moist
soil, warm weather). Unfortunately, mildew, a fungus well-known to wine makers,
also enjoys these conditions and wanted its share of the harvest. It spread rapidly.
and was one of the main difficulties we encountered during the year. Vigilance and
the use of environmentally-friendly methods (we have obtained AREA certification,
«Environmental-Friendly Agriculture in Aquitaine,) enabled us avoid serious
damage.


A warm June meant flowering took place in good conditions but the first days of
July were cool and we were convinced were were in for a poor summer. Fortunately,
our fears were quickly dispelled, as from the last ten days of July onwards we had
excellent weather. These exceptional conditions (not a drop of rain for 2 months)
provided good ripening for both white and red varieties.


The first rains came in late September, proving providential because they provided
the boost to the maturation process, which until then had slowed down due to lack
of water. A second period of heavy rainfall began on October 12th.


                                                                                ...      21
As our Rouillac terroir means the grapes ripen early, our motivated, trained team
of pickers brought in the whites from September 12th to 19th and the reds from
October 1st to 11th. The harvest was in excellent condition and perfectly ripe.


Provided one managed to overcome all the obstacles, 2012 was a generous year.
and generous will be how we describe our wines after blending.


2012, is, in fact, very reminiscent of another vintage that has been constantly in our
minds throughout the tastings, because the comparison seems so obvious. It might,
however, be presumptuous of us to state which one in this report.


January 2013




                                                                                     22
Eric Perrin,
Owner of Château Carbonnieux,
Grand Cru Classé - Graves


2012 was a year marked by the vagaries of the weather. A cold, rainy spring rendered
work in the vines difficult. The constant threat of fungal disease required constant
vigilance and real technical ability in choosing the right treatments.


Budburst occurred on the usual dates but below-normal temperatures slowed growth
until June. Only after flowering did the vegetative cycle catch up. Consequently, we
stepped up our work to to curb the vines growth, redirecting sap flow towards the
bunches.


Véraison appeared in the first bunches in early August, leading us to expect a rather
late harvest. Fortunately, we had taken into account the weather’s tendancy to go
awry, or rather, in 2012, it’s tendancy to return to normal. Indeed, rainfall proved
virtually non-existent from mid-July to mid-September, which favoured grape
maturation and concentration and meant we started harvesting on September 4th,
a normal date for the beginning of the harvest at Carbonnieux.


The whites were picked in 15 days and the reds in 14, by a team of about sixty
pickers who worked until October 17th.


It is worth mentionning, perhaps, that we equipped the winery with a new de-stemmer,
which is precise and very gentle and produced unprecedented grape quality.


2012 was an unpredictable vintage with unusual weather, though generous in nature.
It offered us rich, elegant, grapes, with classic character. They have enabled us to
put together a large number of good quality batches that will produce wines worthy
of a Grand Cru Classé such as Carbonnieux.


In the words of Philibert Perrin,“For a winemaker, it’s wonderfully satisfying to see
all the efforts made in the vineyard throughout the year rewarded by the sight of
beautiful grapes pouring into the vats.”


                                                                               ...      23
For the whites, the Sauvignon have that freshness and purity found only in clay-
limestone terroirs. The Semillon are exquisite, with notes of apricot and amazing
volume on the palate.


For the reds, the Merlots surprised us during during pumping-over with their beautifully
intense colour. For their part, the Cabernets are fruity and full of character. They will
require slightly longer maturation than usual, but their power will guarantee long
ageing potential.


2012 was also marked by the arrival of our new vineyard manager, Frédéric Magniez,
who previously worked at the Rothschild estates. Thanks to his expertise and
efficiency, Frédéric quickly took charge of the vineyard, masterfully handling the late
summer work in the vines and then the harvest. Harvesting took place almost entirely
outside the rainy periods and, with the increase in the number of pickers and the
pace with which we harvested, the grapes reached the winery at optimum quality.


2012 will be close to the 2011 for the reds and the whites. The whites will be slightly
fuller on the palate than the 2011s.


December 2012




                                                                                        24
Jean-François Quenin,
Owner of Château de Pressac,
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé


The 2012 vintage was marked by a wet, cool spring, which caused the vines not
only to develop at different rates( there were differences between one vine plant
and another and even in bud formation on the same plant) but also led to late and
extended flowering. To top it off, there was an ever present threat from mildew. In
short, at the beginning of summer, morale was not very high!


Then, suddenly, the situation changed and the months of August (especially the
second half) and September were hot and dry, with high variations in temperature,
guaranteeing aromatic richness.


2012 was very demanding in the vineyard, requiring contstant vigilance to protect
against mildew and massive work to ensure even ripening. We hired-in a large team to
perform green harvesting, for example, so that unripe bunches and parts of bunches
were carefully removed; each bunch (a total of 200 km of vine rows) was inspected.
It was the price we had to pay to correct the effects of long, uneven flowering and to
achieve even ripening across the vineyard.


The harvest was late: 4th October for the Pressac Malbec and October 9th for the
Merlot, then the Cabernet Franc. Following a very wet weekend, the mid-October
rains forced us to speed up the picking of the Cabernet Sauvignon, which was
brought-in on the 22nd. In fact, the harvest was not only late but over quickly and we
had to hire more people, 75 pickers, i.e. half as many again as in previous years.


The result is very encouraging: the Merlots are fine, round, aromatic and even if
yields are particularly low, the team’s hard work throughout the summer has been
rewarded.


November 2012




                                                                                         25
Véronique Corporandy,
Technical Manager at Château Soutard,
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru


Château Soutard


Having merged the terroirs of Cadet Piola and Soutard, we were able to harvest four
varieties: Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, to produce the
first vintage of Grand Soutard.


Once again Soutard’s chalky terroir demonstrated its excellence. The vines were
generous and we were delighted with the volume and quality of the harvest.


Our decision to use biodynamic growing methods proved very benficial, enabling us
to harvest the Merlots and Malbecs at perfect maturity, while the experience of our
team and operational organisation meant we could start harvesting on October 3rd
and finish all of AG2R La Mondiale’s properties on October 13th.


Soutard 2011: 23 ha, Soutard 2012: 30 ha

Château Larmande


Our successes to date have led us to persevere with plot selection. The abandoning
of plots located on terroirs of lesser quality (2ha) will doubtless have a positive effect
on the quality of the wines.


A higher percentage of Cabernet Franc will provide our wines with freshness and
elegance, two essential qualities for the style of wine our customers appreciate.


Larmande 2011: 22 ha, Larmande 2012: 20 ha


February 2013




                                                                                             26
Charles Cruse
Estate Manager at Château Grand Corbin,
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé


2012 will be remembered for the considerable pressure from disease -mildew,
oïdium, botrytis etc- and by the permanent struggle (that included all scheduled
treatments of the vines) to keep them at bay.


The year was fairly rainy but happily finished with sunny weather in September, which
thoroughly ripened the grapes.


Harvesting took place between October 4th and 18th in relatively good conditions
apart from some scattered showers.


We began with the Merlots, but had to switch to the Cabernets that were threatened
by botrytis. In fact, we picked the Merlots last this year, as they were much less
sensitive to botrytis.


For us, the 2012 vintage was also marked by the merger of Châteaux Haut-Corbin
and Grand Corbin. The new Château Grand Corbin now covers 28.5 hectares
of vines, all adjoining, with 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet
Sauvignon.


The 2012 vintage produced fine, elegant wines. Grand Corbin 2012, the first vintage
following the consolidation, has confirmed our decision to merge the properties: it
combines the power of Haut-Corbin and its Cabernets with the elegance of Grand
Corbin and its ripe, aromatic Merlots.

February 2013




                                                                                        27
Jean-Francis Pécresse
Owner of Château Canon Pécresse,
Canon Fronsac


2012, a Darwinian Vintage


2012 proved to be a year of intense natural selection at Château Canon Pécresse.
From the beginning of the year to the very end there were highs and lows, with
alternating extended periods of humidity and cool weather and long cycles of heat
and drought; it was difficult for both the vines and the wine makers.


Sorely tested, the plants constantly had to adapt to their changing environment,
a constant test, even if the diseases that lurked failed to strike. Proof of this is the
historically modest volumes harvested in 2012: 25 hl per hectare! This very small
yield is the happy outcome of a Darwinian process: “The surviving species are not
the most intelligent but those that adapt the best to changes,” declared Darwin.


The most fragile berries were eliminated naturally and in the end only the most resistant
remained. They also proved the best, with perfectly structure. Having captured the
vines’ energy, they improved over time and in the end were amazingly concentrated,
giving this vintage unexpected substance.

March 2013
2012 in Sauternes
Complex harvests, low yields and drastic selection
will undoubtedly result in some very fine wines!


How was the 2012 vintage in Sauternes and Barsac? There cannot be one answer
to this question.
In Sauternes and Barsac, every vintage is something of an adventure. The combination
of sun, wind, and mist necessary for noble rot to appear can seem subject to the will
of the heavens. By chance, for the past ten years, the vineyards producing sweet
wines have seen a long series of fine vintages and a few exceptional ones. An unheard
of phenomenon in Bordeaux!


2012 will be remembered as a complicated year which often placed considerable
strain on the nerves of growers in the region. Spring started warm and dry, and then
ended with rain... Two months of summer without a drop of rain, botrytis that had
trouble getting started, and very localized storms... The somewhat sluggish noble
rot meant that the harvests required extreme patience. In many cases they did not
start until October, and were interrupted by spells of rain. Luckily, the last days of the
harvests saw an unexpected return of the sun.


Every property, and almost every plot, was exposed to different weather conditions,
making the harvests a complex affair. Each château had a window of opportunity
to pick their grapes. The mosaic of the vineyards was a vital factor, but everyone
persevered, dodging the rain drops, picking and sorting the grapes literally one by
one, in the meticulous fashion that is unique to Sauternes. For some, the results
have been beyond their expectations, given the conditions, and there have been
more than a few pleasant surprises.


Every owner is responsible for the image of these great wines and this year, more
than ever, great care is being taken to maintain the exceptional quality that has been
developed over the years. The selection performed at the vineyard will be improved
by highly selective blendings and few will be owners not producing a high quality
vintage.




                                                                                    ...      28
The sweet wines of 2012 have a striking aromatic purity. The wines do not rely on
power, impressing instead with finesse, delicacy, smoothness and a freshness that
augurs well for the wines’ long-term balance, with a style that is more ethereal than
in recent years. And which should delight wine lovers…




                                                                                        29
Xavier Planty,
Manager of Château Guiraud,
Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Sauternes


Harvest Journal 2012


Monday, September 10th: the start of the dry white wine harvest! 100 harvesters
arrive at Château Guiraud and are kitted out with baskets and pruning shears. At
12:30, the team reunites in the courtyard for lunch and to prepare a fresh start to the
afternoon. The harvest of the G de Château Guiraud will last for two weeks; the last
press is planned for Monday, September 24th.


Wednesday, September 19th: there is concern! Maybe it’s just that time of year, but
the botrytis still hasn’t started its work yet, it’s been too dry (which has dessicated
some grapes) and too cold at night. We have only had two warm nights and a little
morning fog to start the process, a situation we haven’t seen since 1985.


Mercifully, conditions were ideal on the night of Tuesday to Wednesday. Temperatures
stayed above 10°C, a relief after so many nights that were too cool for the perfect
alchemy we need for Sauternes. We also had some light rain, which the sun generously
dried out with a little help from a gentle breeze. Has the botrytis finally arrived?


Thursday, September 20th: a cool morning – too cool. The thermometer seems to
be playing tricks on us again, threatening to undo all the beneficial effects of the night
before. The powdery botrytis fungus demands a perfect trinity of water, wind and
sun and 2012 is reminding us that it is this precious balance of conditions that makes
our golden wines so exceptional.
So we wait, and while we wait we harvest the splendid Semillon grapes for our
delicious dry white wines.


Friday, September 21st: the night brings hope! The temperature has kindly decided
to stay above 15°C. A sprinkle of rain in the morning gives way to a beautiful sunny
afternoon…..can we get out the secateurs for the Sauternes?




                                                                                       ...30
Sunday, September 23rd: two nights in a row above 15°. There was a little rain
and some fog yesterday morning but not today….the grapes seem to be changing,
complicating things for us. We are heading for what we call the “black hole”: the
point where we can no longer make any more dry white wine, but cannot yet begin
our magnificent Sauternes. We hope it won’t last long!


Tuesday, September 25th: the last morning of harvest for the dry whites. It has taken
a total of nine and a half days to harvest the G de Château Guiraud 2012. In the
cellars, the barrels are softly humming. Music to our ears!


Monday, October 1st: a full moon last night. It’s cool outside, we lit the fire in the
château last night for our second Festival of the Moon. Luckily, the weather forecast
says that things are going to warm up again. The secateurs are ready and our friend
Botrytis is beginning to show his face. Just a few more days and we’ll be there!


Thursday, October 4th: the pickers are back in the vines, this time for the Sauternes!
We make an intial trie or sorting to clean the vines with a helping hand in the morning
from local nursery school children.


Tuesday, October 9th: we continue our cleaning process then, finally, the first batches
of Sauternes enter the cellars. But things really are far from straightforward this year
as, even as late as yesterday evening, we were not sure if we would be able to
harvest. Our pickers had to call at 7:30 this morning to find out if they were needed
or not.


Friday, October 12th: another cloudy morning. Fog and the occasional sunny period
between showers has persisted for the past three days. Rain stops us harvesting
today.


Thursday, October 25th: we begin picking again after 12 days of non-stop rain.


                                                                                  ...  31
Monday, 29th to Wednesday 31st October: three days that save the harvest…


Thursday, November 1st: the harvest ended at 10:00. We were hastily driven out
of the vines when the dark skies overhead opened up and the rain started to pour,
So it’s over….only three days allowed us to bring in a harvest worthy of Château
Guiraud. We’ll have to wait until the vinification is over to see if the 2012 vintage
kept its promise!


“We harvested botrytised, concentrated grapes on only three days: 29th, 30th and
31st October. Before and after those dates it was OK but there was really nothing
very good. In thirty years of winemaking I have only experienced this three times, in
92, 93 and 94.Fortunately, these three fine days, a rare occurrence in late October,
will enable us to make some premier cru. Our honor has been saved!»
                                                                        Xavier Planty


The thirtieth vintage will bear the wine maker’s touch and Monsieur Planty’s
signature.


February 2012




                                                                                        32
Patrick de Montal,
Owner of Domaine d’Arton,
Côtes de Gascogne

This was a year of dramatic climatic contrast:
•	     Winter temperatures plunging to -18°C with 20cm of snow
•	     A rainy spring
•	     A dry summer with less than 20mm of rain in 2 months.


Vine Cycle Summary


We experienced early budding then a slow-down due to a wet, cool spring. A
hailstorm struck the property in full force, resulting in crop losses of 50%, rising to
70% on certain plots.


Extremely staggered flowering in poor conditions (cool temperatures and rain meant
floweing lasted over a month.) After the rain came good, even great, weather and we
even had a summer drought.


Véraison began around August 8th although there was nearly a two-week difference
between berries on certain bunches.


Harvest


The harvest began on September 10th for the Sauvignon and ended on October
29th, with the Petit Manseng that goes to make our late-harvest wine, Victoire.


Overview


The highlights were definitely the harvest, which took place in ideal weather conditions
(cool and sunny).


On the downside, there were significant variations in maturity, a low yield due to hail
and stalled ripening due to drought.


                                                                                  ...      33
Despite its many drawbacks, the 2012 vintage has produced by fruity, supple
wines.


It was a difficult year, both in terms of maintaining vine health (pressure from disease
caused by spring rain), as well as determining the optimal harvest date. Tasting the
berries was a determining factor in the final decision to start picking.


January 2013




                                                                                       34
Miren de Lorgeril,
Owner of Lorgeril Vineyards,
Languedoc Roussillon

2012 vine cycle
The wetter years are good years in our hot, sunny climate so the fact that good
rainfall replenished water reserves in the soil, enabled the vines to thrive throughout
the vegetative cycle.They developed well, with well-balanced vegetative growth until
late August, even though the bunches were small with few berries, which meant a
small harvest.


Summer was pleasant; there was no heat wave but there were the three usual
thunderstorms and heavy rain at the end of September, which cooled things down.
Clear skies lowered night time temperatures, leading to slow maturation despite
warm afternoons. These variations in temperature between day and night favour
slow maturation and aroma development and our plots located at a higher altitude,
where the conditions are even cooler, proved even more precious. The weather was
exceptionally good during the harvest.


Our team had been well prepared and motivated by Bernard DURAND, our new
technical director who joined us last winter, after having managed François LURTON’s
Sud production for 17 years.


We harvested for more than 6 weeks, from September 10th (to increase freshness in
the Chardonnays and rosés) until October 25th for the last Cabernets and November
3rd for the late-harvest Chardonnays. Again, to maintain maximum freshness, we
harvested much more at night than in previous years.


2012: Strengths and weaknesses
We had to pay particular attention to the condition of the grapes this summer because
oïdium was ever present; missing a treatment on a few rows of Chardonnay gave
us a glimpse of what damage we might have had. We continue, however to use
sustainable growing methods and traceability to protect the health of the vines, while
using the smallest quantities of product possible.


                                                                                 ...      35
As the autumn was quite cool, late varieties (Mourvèdre in the areas closest to the
Mediterranean and Grenache and Cabernet in Cabardès) needed time to ripen but
as the grapes were in good condition, we were able to wait for complete, slow
maturation and wonderful freshness, all of which explains why the harvest lasted so
long.


2012 characteristics
The 2012 vintage has very attractive fruit, freshness and balance, thanks to this
year’s key elements:
•	      Cool temperatures allowed particularly slow maturation, which helped by
night harvesting and cold maceration, resulted in great freshness and fruit.
•	      The excellent condition of the crop allowed us to adapt our harvesting (over
6 weeks) to the pace of maturation on each terroir and in each variety, making the
2012 vintage very balanced.


Fermentation proved steady, with no acceleration or wide variations in temperature
and it was easy to extract colour, aromas and tannins.


This year’s wines are consequently even more fruit-driven than the 2011s; they are
fresh, juicy and elegant with ripe tannic structure. Thanks to soft extraction, we
believe that we have continued to progress, in particular at Ciffre in the Roussillon
and at La Livinière, where the wines express beautiful, intense fruit.
•	      We will produce a grand vin in ‘Latour de France’ Roussillon villages, which
we think has remarkable finesse this year.
•	      We may be making a white grand vin, but more of that later…


January 2013




                                                                                        36
Nicolas Perolini,
Technical Manager at Château Lauzade,
Côtes de Provence

With a cold winter, followed by hail and then drought, the 2012 vintage caused us a
few sleepless nights, Winter was particularly harsh with temperatures close to minus
15°C, the most obvious results of this were frost-burnt buds and lower yields.


In spring, hail struck the Var department and it passed only a few kilometers away
from us. To give an idea of the devastation it caused, some neighbours lost their
entire 2012 harvest as well as next year’s.


Then, between May and August, we had very little rain. Fortunately, the water table
was high and thanks to the care we had given the vines, they managed to reach
these reserves and produce beautifully healthy, ripe grapes. September rain helped
to increase volume.


August saw the renovation of our concrete winery and the installation of a temperature-
control system. As work finished only days before of harvest, I leave you to imagine
the stress levels! However, the combination of healthy, balanced grapes and the
improvements in the winery gave us the time to follow the progress of our various
vats in relative calm.


Harvesting took place in late August for a few days, with a brief pause to let the
plants absorb the rain. It then continued until mid-October, without interruption.


Today, the final blending of the rosés and whites are finished and promise some very
pleasurable wines.


We are currently finalising the second phase of our future investments at the winery
that will enable us to make a quantum leap in our ability to tame this unique and
magnificent terroir.


January 2013



                                                                                 ...   37
Guillaume et Soledad Tari,
Owners of Domaine de La Bégude
Bandol

After a cold and particularly snowy winter, our soil had sufficient water reserves
to confront an extremely dry summer: three months without the slightest drop of
rain…
We didn’t experience the usual mid-July and mid-August rainfall and had to wait for
the end of August for the first storm. To our delight this brought light, welcome rain
that eased our fears about the halt in the ripening process.


At that point it became a waiting game, though fortunately the excellent weather
conditions enabled us to do so with confidence. We started harvesting on September
24th and finished picking, as usual, on October 10th in the last appellation. Given
the great diversity of soils and exposure of our plots at Bégude (17 hectares spread
over 24 plots on 500 hectares of scrubland), our harvest is always prolonged, so that
we can choose the optimal time for harvesting on each plot.


Due to the mineral character of the sites and their exposure to the Mistral wind on the
highest point of the Bandol appellation, the yield was just 22 hectoliters/hectare.


The grapes were wonderfully healthy and we could afford to take our time. As
every year, the rosé vinification proved long, ending in December. The reds finished
their malolactic fermentation in January. This year we even harvested some white
from the wild boars’ favorite plot (!)- a cool valley, protected from the sometimes
overwhelming heat of Provence, it yielded about 1,000 bottles. At the moment, the
vintage seems to be characterised by good concentration and balance, though still
with the freshness that is the hallmark of the estate thanks to its altitude and the
wide range of day and night temperatures. The wines have great promise for the
future.


February 2013




                                                                                          38
2012
a rare and precious vintage in Burgundy


12 November 2012


A first! That is what Bourgogne’s winegrowers are saying about this year’s weather.
Given Mother Nature’s whims, they had to redouble their efforts to ensure the very
best results from their vines. And the first tastings confirm that all their hard work was
worthwhile. From the north of Bourgogne to the south, the industry is unanimous
- the quality of this year’s nascent wines is excellent, surpassing all expectations
given the weather. The only downside is the quantity which is below average, down
as much as 20% according to some estimates. (Definitive figures will be available in
early 2013).


A mild winter, a chilly spring with frosts, a warm May, a cool and rainy June, an
unstable summer, a heat wave, hail and storms - weather like this could not fail but
affect the vines. The cold and rain in spring caused shatter, where some flowers fail
to turn into fruit; millerandage where incomplete fertilization of the flower giving rise
to small berries; and a big threat from both downy and powdery mildew. The brief
hot periods in summer brought some very high temperatures that burned the fruit.


These phenomena, which occurred before the grapes ripened, meant yields were
significantly lower this year, but had no impact on the quality of the grapes. On the
contrary, aerated bunches of smaller berries guarantee concentration and intensity.


Having had to manage the elements and struggle on a daily basis, both man and
materials have emerged from this vintage worn out, yet victorious. During the harvest,
which took place under sunny skies, the grapes being welcomed into the wineries
were healthy and showed no signs of disease or rot.


The scarcity of the 2012 vintage will only serve to make the wines even more
precious!




                                                                                            39
Jacques Lardière,
Maison Louis Jadot,
Burgundy


A vintage born of chaotic climatic conditions and contrasts.


Wine makers need to keep a close, meticulous watch on the progress of their vines
every year but in 2012 they had to brace themselves for an unrelenting battle against
cryptogamic diseases to save the crop.


It was hard going, but in the end Nature saved us from rot and the grapes that
came in to the winery were of astonishing quality. It put broad smiles on our faces,
smoothing the worry lines that had got deeper and deeper over the months.


Of course, any talk of the 2012 vintage in Burgundy is only of the 50% of the harvest
that was actually saved, because the year’s chaotic weather – not to mention the
hail – meant only half the normal crop was picked.


Fortunately, the quality of the wines is superb. As maturation continues, the reds are
beautiful and the whites are increasing elegant and with no trace of heaviness. It is a
style that should please all wine lovers.


December 2012




                                                                                          40
Charles Philipponnat,
General Manager of Champagnes Philipponnat and of
Clos des Goisses,
Champagne


Monday 24th September 2012: Philipponnat has just finished harvesting its grapes.
Picking started on September 13th but stopped between the 15th and 18th to allow
the grapes to reach optimum ripeness.


The winter and spring frosts, the cold spell just after flowering and the coulure that
followed put paid to any hopes of a generous harvest in terms of quantity. We also
lost a few bunches to mildew but the foliage was protected and stayed a healthy
green, ensuring good photosynthesis.


The wet weather in July generated a lot of work, especially weed control that is now
carried out entirely mechanically. We use a tractor equipped with an intercep or
under- vine tool, a cart horse and even, on the steep slopes of the Clos des Goisses,
manual weeding with a small hoe.


Yields were only 6,000 to 7,000 kilos/hectare producing a cuvée, (the first and only
pressing that is used at Philipponnat) of 30 to 35 hl/ha.


Quality was, however, very satisfactory, especially the Pinot Noirs, whose exceptional
sugar content (11.5° to more than 12°), was higher than in 1976, 2000 or 2003. This
was combined with excellent acidity (due to an exceptionally dry August, three dry
weeks in September and cold nights) that was even better than in 1996. The high
proportion of malic acid will enable the wines to retain well-balanced freshness. The
old saying proved to be true: August makes the must.


An unusual feature of this vintage was that the Clos des Goisses grapes were a little
less ripe than the Ay grapes (the basis of the 1522 cuvée). The yield for the latter was
slightly better as the vines on the warm soils of this terroir flowered before the cold
spell in June.


The musts were clear with little or no oxidisation and already present excellent


                                                                                  ...     41
aromatic qualities.The best are already fermenting in oak, a good sign, suggesting
purity and longevity.


Things will be clearer in a few weeks when the still wines are tasted but already, what
we are seeing now is somewhere between 2002 and 1959, two of Champagne’s
greatest vintages.



September 2012




                                                                                          42
Karim and Sandro Saadé,
Owners of Chateau Marsyas,
Lebanon

Autumn 2012 was very rainy, followed by a cold, very snowy winter and more heavy
rain, much heavier and more prolonged than normal and which only stopped in early
April.


There followed a hot, dry spring and a hot summer, with a heat wave in late June.
Yields were reduced to provide optimum ripening of the skins and to avoid berry
dehydration.


The harvest started in the third week of August and finished a month later.


February 2013




                                                                                    43

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2012 Vintage - Press Pack

  • 1. Vintage Press pack Lettres De Châteaux Marie-Stéphane Malbec 12, rue d’Enghien - 33000 Bordeaux ms.malbec@lettres-de-chateaux.com Tel.: +33 (0)5 56 44 63 50
  • 2. Contents 2012 vintage in Bordeaux Irritating, late, complex, original, technical… 3 Château Talbot, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Saint-Julien 5 Château de Lamarque, Haut-Médoc 8 Château Paveil de Luze, Margaux 11 Château Marquis de Terme, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Margaux 14 Château Belle-Vue, Château de Gironville, Crus Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc et Château Bolaire, Bordeaux Supérieur, Haut-Médoc 17 Château Cantemerle, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Haut-Médoc 19 Château Sénéjac, Cru Bourgeois,Haut-Médoc 20 Château de Rouillac, Pessac-Léognan 21 Château Carbonnieux, Grand Cru Classé, Graves 23 Château de Pressac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 25 Château Soutard, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 26 Château Grand Corbin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 27 Château Canon Pécresse, Canon Fronsac 28 2012 vintage at Sauternes Complex harvests, low yields and drastic selection will undoubtedly result in some very fine wines! 29 Château Guiraud, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Sauternes 31 2012 vintage in Côtes de Gascogne Domaine d’Arton, Côtes de Gascogne 34 2012 vintage in Languedoc-Roussillon Vignobles Lorgeril, Languedoc-Roussillon 36 2012 vintage in Provence Château Lauzade, Côtes de Provence 38 2012 vintage in Bandol Domaine de La Bégude, Bandol 39 2012 vintage in Bourgogne ‘‘2012: a rare and precious vintage in Burgundy’’ 40 Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne 41 2012 vintage in Champagne Champagne Philipponnat 42 2012 vintage in Lebanon Château Marsyas 44 2
  • 3. The 2012 Vintage in Bordeaux Irritating, late, complex, unpredictable, technical… At first, a year full of challenges, followed, later, by some pleasant surprises; Bordeaux’s 2012 vintage should be labelled too hastily. It requires very careful analysis. If you listened to everyone, you could easily get lost in speculative semantics because everyone has his or her take on this vintage. It was infuriating (for the wine-makers); uneven (for consumers); very successful (for the dry white wines); jealous (for the sweet white wines). And so it goes on. Perhaps we should just stick to comments from oenologists at the Gironde Chamber of Agriculture: ‘2012 is a decidedly good vintage.’ A good vintage, of course, does not mean a great vintage. Overall, Bordeaux wines did better than in 2011, though nothing to compare with 2009 and 2010. Nature is not generous every year and apart from the wonderful, salutary month of August, the weather tested wine makers’ nerves to the limit. Much rain and a cool July caused late although not necessarily flawed ripening. The best results will be found in the dry whites: perfectly balanced, fruity, aromatic and with the livliness that fresh acidity brings. The same is true for the rosés, which don’t have the hot, heavy character of very warm years and which will make pefect drinking over what promises to be a good summer in 2013. Unfortunately, the sweet white wines were not so consistent. In Sauternes it was “demanding yet surprising”, with small yields, variable quality and some resounding successes. For the reds, the virtues of a Merlot-Cabernet blend and the contribution of varieties, such as Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, enabled skilled wine makers to make up for the damage from coulure, oïdium, millérandage, mildew, botrytis and humidity. 2012 is unquestionably a technical vintage, where vignerons had to be ever ... 3
  • 4. vigilant in the vineyard against fungus, disease and pests, as well as being careful and attentive in the winery. And on this point, it is useful to remember the contribution of new techniques and progess in oenology, which have come out of the Bordeaux Institute and the decisive work it has been doing since the end of last century. In 2012, they truly demonstrated what a difference they can make. 2012 then is the vintage of the bon vigneron who, through incessant work, skill and experience made good wine, overcoming all the difficulties of a complicated, demanding and capricious year. For all these reasons 2012 is a «decidedly good vintage” and the fine terroirs will provide wine lovers with first-class, balanced wines that reflect the classic Bordeaux style. 4
  • 5. Christian Hostein, Vineyard Manager at Château Talbot, Grand Cru Classé in 1855, Saint-Julien It’s the end of the year and time to take stock. The tension has gone. Winter work and routine have returned to the vineyard. The new wine is in new oak and we can begin see what this vintage will be. The first question might be,»where did all these extraordinary vats of Cabernet Sauvignon come from?», because at first glance, the weather was really not ideal. A cold, rainy winter (the coldest in 30 years), followed by a cool, rainy spring led to capricious flowering and imperfect fruit set. The result was what appeared to be a small harvest, similar to 2002, with lacklustre Merlot and light Cabernet Sauvignon. The beginning of summer also fell way short of expectations and we had to wait until August to finally enjoy sustained, hot, dry weather, which continued until the onset of a heat wave. During this period, a few of the most exposed grapes, those at the ends of the rows, that get most exposure to the afternoon sun, actually got slightly burnt. September promised to be good. We harvested the Sauvignon Blanc on September 12th and 13th, then the Semillon on the 17th, with fine freshness and exotic aromas mixed with white peach and pear. Until then, all was well and the cumulative temperature level was close to that of 2010. Perhaps it was all going to work out? However things started to go very wrong in the second half of September, with significant rainfall. The berries were swollen and water reached the roots. Botrytis cinerea, our staunch enemy that had been prêtty absent up to that point, literally exploded in early October. Picking the Merlots from October the 1st to the 3rd proved a good bet, producing expressive grapes, not over-mature but with excellent concentration and good sugar-acidity balance. We then decided to halt harvesting for 6 days. We lived in a sort of sauna and sleep ... 5
  • 6. became impossible with humidity approaching 100% and night-time temperatures of 18°C. Cep mushrooms were popping up in all the nearby fields ‒ some people were even harvesting them with scythes! Not a good omen. Finally we started picking again. The ever-sensitive Petits Verdots were giving cause for concern and we harvested them all within a day. The Cabernets Sauvignons were next. We had to make a difficult decision and give priority to bringing in the grapes on the plateau at peak maturity at the expense of other areas of the vineyard. The skins were fragile, but the phenolic potential was there and although they will produce limited quantities, these will be complex, totally classic Bordeaux wines. Here at the heart of the plateau on the finest terroirs, water that is harmful in excess, acts like a buffer on a piece of fine silver. Everything is smooth, well-defined and round, no rough edges! These old vines are well nigh perfect. Their fruit is a testament to the work of everyone on the estate, in a decidedly Médoc climate. Exhausted and washed out, we finished harvesting on October 16th. Today the malolactic fermentations are nearly complete and by Christmas the wines will be stored safely in new barrels. In January the blendings will begin, that fine alchemy between our palates and our instincts; they will be critical for this difficult vintage, although my feeling is elegance should win through. Rainfall: January : 43 mm - February : 3 mm (snow) - March : 25 mm - April : 188 mm May : 39 mm - June : 71 mm - July : 42 mm - August : 12 mm September : 60 mm - October : 128 mm - November : 84 mm First Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon flowers: May 29th Mid-flowering: June 4th ... 6
  • 7. Beginning of leaf thinning operations: June 25th Harvest: Sauvignon Blanc: September 12th and 13th Sémillon: September 17th Trial of géo box for the reception of grapes at the winery: September 27th and 28th Merlot: October 1er, 2nd and 3rd Petit Verdot: October 9th Cabernet Sauvignon: from October 10th to 16th December 2012 7
  • 8. Marie-Hélène et Pierre-Gilles Gromand d’Evry, Co-owners of Château de Lamarque, Haut-Médoc I described the last three vintages - 2009, 2010, 2011- as ‘wine maker’ vintages. In describing 2012, I am reminded of professor Peynaud’s motto, “You make good wines with good grapes.” Wine makers were only able to prepare the quality of the 2012 crop by making the right growing decisions during a year of hide and seek with the weather.The harvest sun did the rest…transforming the grapes into an exceptional or very fine vintage. All year long, as in every vintage, it was the wine maker’s close scrutiny and intelligence, which produced healthy, mature and plentiful grapes. Still, rainfall and temperatures during the 2012 harvest proved complex. This year’s weather conditions were nothing like those of the past three years and in the end, it was the weather at harvest time that characterised the vintage. The almost tropical climate we lived through in late August, with some hot and (thank God) dry periods, had us on a knife edge until October 1st, when we began picking. We finished on October 19th. From then on the vigneron needed all his wine maker skills. We had to wait for each variety, on each plot to reach the right balance: pH. theoretical degree, acidity and…perfect condition. We took maximum risk, certainly, and we also needed the capability to act quickly in the vineyard as well as in the winery. This year we picked by hand and by machine. We used a state-of-the-art harvesting machine (it has no de-stemmer, to avoid tearing the grapes) to pick the first Merlot. We then picked the remaining Merlot by hand and the Cabernet Sauvignon mechanically. The Cabernet Franc and all the Petits-Verdot were harvested manually. We employed something of a ‘strike force’ strategy to harvest at optimum balance and optimum condition and crucially, we also had to bring-in extra sorting teams to check the grapes on arrival in the winery. Until the 2011 vintage, our draconian sorting had been done, after de-stemming, ... 8
  • 9. on a 5-meter vibrating table by a team of 8 trained people. The grapes were then crushed before vatting. But this method, however excellent, was slow and led us to run risks with regard to the pace of harvest. For a few years we had studied various sorting methods to improve work and speed and, last spring, we opted for the optical Defranceschi ‘X-TRI’, a machine already in service with some of our celebrated neighbours (La Lagune, Leoville Las Cases…) It combines both high quality sorting (cameras analyse chlorophyll rate according to set criteria) and speed. In view of conditions in 2012, it was a good investment and we were able to harvest, stop and resume operations precisely at the pace we desired. As I said earlier, the objective was to wait until the last moment then intervene quickly, according to the plot and the grape variety. Although unplanned, we should also add that we placed a supplementary vibrating table just outside the ‘XTRI’ before crushing, to do a final, two-person check and manual sorting - just-in-case. Vinification was relatively easy and the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations went well: Pressing: one spinning and two pressings Yield: 37 hl/ha Alcohol: circa 13.3° Tannin: average IPT 72 Acidity: 3.4g/l …in short: good balance. Grape Varieties Château de Lamarque 2012: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 12% Petit-Verdot. The Cabernet Franc with the young Merlot went into in the D de Lamarque. We blended with the help of oenologists Jacques and Eric Boissenot and produced 80% ‘Grand Vin’ (Château de Lamarque) and 20% ‘second wine’ (D de Lamarque). ... 9
  • 10. All the 2012 went into barrel from mid-November 2012 until mid-January 2013. We used 5 French barrel makers. The barrels were medium toasted. We used 45% new oak, 40% barrels of one wine, 15% barrels of two wines Today, February1st 2013, Château de Lamarque 2012 is a brilliant, deep garnet-red colour. The nose is still discreet and slightly dominated by the oak, with aromas of black fruit (blueberry, blackcurrant). On the palate, it has good balance and structure and is very dense with fine fruit and persistent tannins - a wine that reflects all the efforts made by the estate throughout 2012 in the vineyard, as well as wise decisions taken during harvest. It is a classic vintage, reminiscent of 2006. February 2013 10
  • 11. Frédéric de Luze Owner of Château Paveil de Luze, Margaux After a mild start to winter, February saw two weeks of record-breaking cold weather in the Bordeaux region. The rainy spring unfortunately caused significant coulure, generating small yields and considerable variation, mainly in the Merlots. Summer finally arrived in mid-July. Along with the first leaf removal operations on the east-facing side of the vines, we decided to start thinning-out to remove any rare clusters of rot within the bunches. August was hot and dry, though not excessively so and at this point we were all looking at the prospect of a good vintage. Despite the improvement in the weather, however, the véraison was uneven, requiring a second green harvest to give the grapes chance to reach perfect maturity. The inconsistent véraison confirmed that the harvest would be late, with the risk of unpredictable weather. Even more so than in previous years, it was abundantly clear that the condition of the grapes would be the deciding element. The dreaded equinox rains came right on cue, heralding a change in the weather that lasted from mid-September right up to the end of the harvest. Mild temperatures and alternating periods of sun and scattered showers were stressful to say the least but it was worth keeping one’s nerve because, in fact, the grapes were ripening, slowly but surely. Despite adverse weather conditions and the presence of botrytis, all our efforts in the vineyard were paying off. This was confirmed by the fact that the all important visit from our oenologists, Stéphane Derenoncourt and Simon Blanchard, was not programmed until September 20th. Stress levels rose again over the next two weeks. Lots of growers were harvesting ... 11
  • 12. in the Bordeaux region, but we felt we had to wait, not wanting to risk compromising this year’s efforts. We tasted the grapes in the vineyard on October 4th and finally decided to harvest the following Monday. Nineteen days later than last year, the red Merlot on the Pont Rouge plot were the first to be harvested; the first vats looked encouraging, heralding a vintage with good balance. Two days after, we attacked the Paveil Merlots. Conditions proved difficult but somehow we managed to harvest between showers. Here again the newly-filled vats gave off very attractive red fruit aromas. On October 11th it was time to bring in the Cabernets, first the Cabernet Franc, then the Sauvignon. The weather had hardly improved although we kept harvesting and thanks to the continued ripening of the Cabernet Sauvignon, we looked forward to a pretty calm end to the harvest. The result was a vintage with fine maturity, picked between October 8th and 16th and in record time for the estate. Berry-tasting revealed good ripeness and wonderful potential, encouraging us to extract softly and stagger pumping-over to respect the grapes as much as possible. Post-fermentary maceration took place at high temperature, in order to obtain plenty of fat and ripe tannins. When the wines were run-off, they were aromatic with soft and elegant structure. Tasting notes (newly run-off wines): • Paveil Merlot: Red fruit, raspberry, redcurrant nose with the typical smoky hints that are the expression of gravely soil. The palate is sweet, round, at once creamy and dense. Good, silky tannins on the finish. ... 12
  • 13. Paveil Cabernet Sauvignon: Redcurrant, rose and raspberry nose. Clean, firm front palate followed by fine but tight tannins on the mid palate. Very long, aromatic finish. February 2013 13
  • 14. Ludovic David, Technical Manager at Châteaux Marquis de Terme, Grand Cru Classé in 1855, Margaux 2012 Vintage, first impressions A wine maker’s vintage: rainy spring, summer drought and a hot, wet October! The rain has finally stopped!!!!! We have just completed harvesting and the sun has returned to the Bordeaux sky. The vineyards are still beautiful, scarcely touched by tinges of autumn red. What a strange vintage. The grapes took an eternity to ripen, leaving us with endless questions on when to pick them. As in all good stories, everything began well at the beginning of the year. A cold, rainy winter and a mild, rainy spring created a superb leaf canopy, the like of which we had not seen for 5 years and periods of sun and rain favoured regular, vigorous growth. The first problems appeared during flowering which, due to alternating periods of damp and warmth, was very patchy and uneven. Disease (mildew and oïdium) tested our skills in vineyard management to the full. The rain, however, also encouraged the spread of mugwort, purslane and chickenwort, as well as ray grass, demonstrating renewed soil vitality, since we stopped using herbicides in favour of tilling the soil between rows and plants. Stopping systematic application of insecticides and choosing to limit treatments has produced large quantities of typhlodromus (natural predators of insects that devastate vines) and meant that wildlife has returned. All of this is very encouraging and is the result of a three-year commitment plan to protect the environment by using organic methods. Today, this means that our choice of viticulture is making the best of our fine terroir and year after year it is re-establishing it bio balance. A dry summer from July to early September (less than 5 mm rainfall) slowed down the ... 14
  • 15. ripening proces but lots of sunshine and a warm September confirmed the vintage’s potential. Rain in late September is rarely welcome but since the vines had been prepared by numerous leaf removal operations, we actually saw an accelaeration in ripening on several plots thanks to some much needed water. With our eyes glued to various Internet weather forecasts, we continued to prepare for the harvest. From September 24th until 27th there was a serious deterioration in weather conditions including a rare phenomenon in Bordeaux: a week of tropical- like weather where daytime temperatures reached 25°C-28°C and 90% humidity - perfect conditions for our old enemy, botrytis cinerea. We spent the time waiting to pick by visiting to each plot. Our aim: to assess ripeness and not to panic about rot! In the end, the Merlot were beautifully ripe and harvested on October 9th,10th and 11th, as we had taken into account the late véraison these turned out to be the exact dates we’d planned for, for over than a month, The very good Petit Verdot was harvested on October 12th and showed good fruit and power. We were not so lucky with the Cabernet Sauvignon. In my opinion we harvested 10 days too early, but we couldn’t wait any longer, as the forecast was for rain, wind, unsettled conditions and cool temperatures. Indeed, the following weekend, the weather was wet, windy and cold validating, if need be, our decision to pick when we did. So what was the result? What sort of quality did we produce? With the vinification process under way, these are the questions we ask ourselves each year at this time. when our exacting work as œnologists and our knowledge of the terroir now come into play in the winery: singling out batches, selecting wines, working each vat ... 15
  • 16. carefully and never using a ‘system’ to vinify but looking to exploit the potential of each vat. Now that the alcoholic fermentation in the first batches is complete and maceration is underway our expectations are confirmed: beautiful Merlots and slightly tight Cabernets with great finesse and elegance. Nothing came easy in this vintage but hard work and tough choices in the vineyard and the winery paid off. 2012 is a fine example of a wine maker’s vintage, where quality was down to us making the right decisions. The potential is there and careful ageing will refinine and marry the raw material. But already we feel confident that this new vintage will sit perfectly in the elegant and charming style and tradition of Marquis de Terme wines. November 2012 16
  • 17. Jean-Michel Marle, General Manager, at Château Belle-Vue, Cru Bourgeois, Haut Médoc, at Château de Gironville, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc and Château Bolaire, Bordeaux Supérieur Vine cycle in 2012: A long, hard winter frost was followed by mild weather. Growth occured in spurts and budburst was quick and even. There was then a surge in growth (and the spread of disease, much more sustained than in 2007), with a temporary halt in growth in June. Conditions during flowering were mediocre, limiting fertilisation and impacting on yields. The Merlots and Petit Verdots were particularly affected but the Cabernets made up for this. There were plenty of bunches although they were smaller than usual. Strong and weak points • Uneven ripening. Rainy weather meant a lot of work to the canopy (leaf thinning, cleaning…). • Luckily favorable weather in September allowed us to prepare for the harvest. On the whole it was a year that favoured late-ripening varieties. 2012 produced lovely Cabernets despite the threat from disease, especially botrytis. Dates and harvest operations 13 consecutive days, from October 5th to October 17th. Harvesting was continuous and weather conditions were variable, ranging from damp to dry and sunny in the space of one day. The year’s characteristics Very short harvest period, with a real need for sorting. We were immediately struck by the beautiful colour. The risk of dilution due to rainfall was offset by bleeding the vats and the result was concentrated, fresh wines. 2012 style The wines are open with pleasant fruit, good tannic structure and intense colour. ... 17
  • 18. Which other vintage does it remind you of? 2008 and 2009. In many ways it’s a 2008 ‘plus’. «A very technical wine-making year. An intense harvest was followed by intense vinifications that required the utmost skill and control of all parameters in the vineyards and the winery.» Maximilien Delemotte,Vineyard Manager. «An incredibly intense vintage, full of surprises. Fortunately, our efforts paid off.» Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, Technical Director. «Once again, nature and climate were the determining factors. Every day the teams had to adapt their strategies and techniques to get the best out of our grapes.» Jean-Michel Marle, Director. January 2013 18
  • 19. Philippe Dambrine, Manager of Château Cantemerle, Grand Cru Classé in 1855, Haut-Médoc The vine cycle: Budburst occurred in mild, dry weather between March and April. Then, with the arrival of a cold, wet front, the weather changed, disrupting growth in the young vines until early May. June flowering and early July véraison took place in cool weather, affecting volumes. At that stage, late vine development indicated a late harvest however, the dry, sunny weather that followed throughout August and September allowed the vines to make up for lost time. Harvest: After a few scattered showers in late September, harvesting took place from October 1st to 16th, The Merlot was brought in in warm sunshine but the rain returned on October 7th, forcing us to speed up picking. The keys to success in 2012: On the whole it was a complicated year, perhaps one that people might call a “wine maker’s vintage”. The fight against seasonal vine disease was thus decisive in bringing perfectly healthy grapes into the vats. The choice of dates for harvesting and our ability to regulate the rhythm of work in the vineyard (harvesting, sorting after de-stemming, vat room intake management…) were also prerequisites for obtaining the best results in 2012. Style: Initial tastings reveal balance and harmony. The colour is deep and there are lots of intense primary aromas. On the palate, the wines are soft, round and full, with no hollowness on the mid-palate or harshness. The unusual power of recent vintages will probably give way to finesse this year but the 2012 wines will certinly give pleasure in a few year’s time, just as the 2001s and 2004s are doing now. January 2013 19
  • 20. Damien Hostein, Technical Manager at Château Sénéjac, Haut-Médoc We are in the winery, blending the various lots for Sénéjac’s 2012 vintage. How would I sum up the year gone by? Dodging the showers. This vintage, the first for me at Sénéjac, was difficult. Indeed, the year was marked by rain at each key stage of the vine’s vegetative cycle. • April: 153 mm • May: 50 mm • June: 85 mm This caused coulure in the Merlot, but above all led to significant variation in the bunches at flowering, to the extent that when we carried out maturity assessments before the harvest, we saw different stages of ripeness on the same plot and even on the same vine plant. Today, it is clear that Sénéjac will be a good vintage, which in a few months, I hope, will delight the “primeur” tasters. This is largely thanks to choosing the harvest dates with care, and then sticking to them! A few dates: • 28th September: picking of the young Merlot • 2nd, 3rd and 5th October: harvesting of Merlot from the plateau • 4th October: picking of the Cabernets Franc, no room for error! • October 8th: harvesting resumed with the Cabernet Sauvignon and finished, on October 15th with the rows of old Cabernet on the Sénéjac plateau that had withstood the excessive rain. 2012 is ending with the vineyard teams working once again in the rain and waiting for drier days in January to bring smiles back to their faces. One thing is certain, we will all be ready for the next adventure… 2013. December 2012 20
  • 21. Jean-Christophe Barron, Technical Manager at Château de Rouillac, Pessac-Léognan Vintage 2012: Angel or Devil? You remember some vintages with a sense of calm and tranquility. They’re like a gentle, comtemplative horeback ride through the woods. We’ll remember 2012 as the toughest three-day event or a round of show-jumping at the Olympics, requiring concentration, timing, agility and poise. After coming through the harsh winter of 2012, the vineyard burst into life thanks to a warm, dry March. In early April, a spring frost took a few buds and with them a part of the harvest, we avoided this ‘weather trap’ by using wind turbines and mobilising of the entire vineyard team. The rest of the month was very wet, gorging the soil with water. Hot weather in May enabled very rapid vine development in ideal conditions (moist soil, warm weather). Unfortunately, mildew, a fungus well-known to wine makers, also enjoys these conditions and wanted its share of the harvest. It spread rapidly. and was one of the main difficulties we encountered during the year. Vigilance and the use of environmentally-friendly methods (we have obtained AREA certification, «Environmental-Friendly Agriculture in Aquitaine,) enabled us avoid serious damage. A warm June meant flowering took place in good conditions but the first days of July were cool and we were convinced were were in for a poor summer. Fortunately, our fears were quickly dispelled, as from the last ten days of July onwards we had excellent weather. These exceptional conditions (not a drop of rain for 2 months) provided good ripening for both white and red varieties. The first rains came in late September, proving providential because they provided the boost to the maturation process, which until then had slowed down due to lack of water. A second period of heavy rainfall began on October 12th. ... 21
  • 22. As our Rouillac terroir means the grapes ripen early, our motivated, trained team of pickers brought in the whites from September 12th to 19th and the reds from October 1st to 11th. The harvest was in excellent condition and perfectly ripe. Provided one managed to overcome all the obstacles, 2012 was a generous year. and generous will be how we describe our wines after blending. 2012, is, in fact, very reminiscent of another vintage that has been constantly in our minds throughout the tastings, because the comparison seems so obvious. It might, however, be presumptuous of us to state which one in this report. January 2013 22
  • 23. Eric Perrin, Owner of Château Carbonnieux, Grand Cru Classé - Graves 2012 was a year marked by the vagaries of the weather. A cold, rainy spring rendered work in the vines difficult. The constant threat of fungal disease required constant vigilance and real technical ability in choosing the right treatments. Budburst occurred on the usual dates but below-normal temperatures slowed growth until June. Only after flowering did the vegetative cycle catch up. Consequently, we stepped up our work to to curb the vines growth, redirecting sap flow towards the bunches. Véraison appeared in the first bunches in early August, leading us to expect a rather late harvest. Fortunately, we had taken into account the weather’s tendancy to go awry, or rather, in 2012, it’s tendancy to return to normal. Indeed, rainfall proved virtually non-existent from mid-July to mid-September, which favoured grape maturation and concentration and meant we started harvesting on September 4th, a normal date for the beginning of the harvest at Carbonnieux. The whites were picked in 15 days and the reds in 14, by a team of about sixty pickers who worked until October 17th. It is worth mentionning, perhaps, that we equipped the winery with a new de-stemmer, which is precise and very gentle and produced unprecedented grape quality. 2012 was an unpredictable vintage with unusual weather, though generous in nature. It offered us rich, elegant, grapes, with classic character. They have enabled us to put together a large number of good quality batches that will produce wines worthy of a Grand Cru Classé such as Carbonnieux. In the words of Philibert Perrin,“For a winemaker, it’s wonderfully satisfying to see all the efforts made in the vineyard throughout the year rewarded by the sight of beautiful grapes pouring into the vats.” ... 23
  • 24. For the whites, the Sauvignon have that freshness and purity found only in clay- limestone terroirs. The Semillon are exquisite, with notes of apricot and amazing volume on the palate. For the reds, the Merlots surprised us during during pumping-over with their beautifully intense colour. For their part, the Cabernets are fruity and full of character. They will require slightly longer maturation than usual, but their power will guarantee long ageing potential. 2012 was also marked by the arrival of our new vineyard manager, Frédéric Magniez, who previously worked at the Rothschild estates. Thanks to his expertise and efficiency, Frédéric quickly took charge of the vineyard, masterfully handling the late summer work in the vines and then the harvest. Harvesting took place almost entirely outside the rainy periods and, with the increase in the number of pickers and the pace with which we harvested, the grapes reached the winery at optimum quality. 2012 will be close to the 2011 for the reds and the whites. The whites will be slightly fuller on the palate than the 2011s. December 2012 24
  • 25. Jean-François Quenin, Owner of Château de Pressac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé The 2012 vintage was marked by a wet, cool spring, which caused the vines not only to develop at different rates( there were differences between one vine plant and another and even in bud formation on the same plant) but also led to late and extended flowering. To top it off, there was an ever present threat from mildew. In short, at the beginning of summer, morale was not very high! Then, suddenly, the situation changed and the months of August (especially the second half) and September were hot and dry, with high variations in temperature, guaranteeing aromatic richness. 2012 was very demanding in the vineyard, requiring contstant vigilance to protect against mildew and massive work to ensure even ripening. We hired-in a large team to perform green harvesting, for example, so that unripe bunches and parts of bunches were carefully removed; each bunch (a total of 200 km of vine rows) was inspected. It was the price we had to pay to correct the effects of long, uneven flowering and to achieve even ripening across the vineyard. The harvest was late: 4th October for the Pressac Malbec and October 9th for the Merlot, then the Cabernet Franc. Following a very wet weekend, the mid-October rains forced us to speed up the picking of the Cabernet Sauvignon, which was brought-in on the 22nd. In fact, the harvest was not only late but over quickly and we had to hire more people, 75 pickers, i.e. half as many again as in previous years. The result is very encouraging: the Merlots are fine, round, aromatic and even if yields are particularly low, the team’s hard work throughout the summer has been rewarded. November 2012 25
  • 26. Véronique Corporandy, Technical Manager at Château Soutard, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Château Soutard Having merged the terroirs of Cadet Piola and Soutard, we were able to harvest four varieties: Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, to produce the first vintage of Grand Soutard. Once again Soutard’s chalky terroir demonstrated its excellence. The vines were generous and we were delighted with the volume and quality of the harvest. Our decision to use biodynamic growing methods proved very benficial, enabling us to harvest the Merlots and Malbecs at perfect maturity, while the experience of our team and operational organisation meant we could start harvesting on October 3rd and finish all of AG2R La Mondiale’s properties on October 13th. Soutard 2011: 23 ha, Soutard 2012: 30 ha Château Larmande Our successes to date have led us to persevere with plot selection. The abandoning of plots located on terroirs of lesser quality (2ha) will doubtless have a positive effect on the quality of the wines. A higher percentage of Cabernet Franc will provide our wines with freshness and elegance, two essential qualities for the style of wine our customers appreciate. Larmande 2011: 22 ha, Larmande 2012: 20 ha February 2013 26
  • 27. Charles Cruse Estate Manager at Château Grand Corbin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2012 will be remembered for the considerable pressure from disease -mildew, oïdium, botrytis etc- and by the permanent struggle (that included all scheduled treatments of the vines) to keep them at bay. The year was fairly rainy but happily finished with sunny weather in September, which thoroughly ripened the grapes. Harvesting took place between October 4th and 18th in relatively good conditions apart from some scattered showers. We began with the Merlots, but had to switch to the Cabernets that were threatened by botrytis. In fact, we picked the Merlots last this year, as they were much less sensitive to botrytis. For us, the 2012 vintage was also marked by the merger of Châteaux Haut-Corbin and Grand Corbin. The new Château Grand Corbin now covers 28.5 hectares of vines, all adjoining, with 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2012 vintage produced fine, elegant wines. Grand Corbin 2012, the first vintage following the consolidation, has confirmed our decision to merge the properties: it combines the power of Haut-Corbin and its Cabernets with the elegance of Grand Corbin and its ripe, aromatic Merlots. February 2013 27
  • 28. Jean-Francis Pécresse Owner of Château Canon Pécresse, Canon Fronsac 2012, a Darwinian Vintage 2012 proved to be a year of intense natural selection at Château Canon Pécresse. From the beginning of the year to the very end there were highs and lows, with alternating extended periods of humidity and cool weather and long cycles of heat and drought; it was difficult for both the vines and the wine makers. Sorely tested, the plants constantly had to adapt to their changing environment, a constant test, even if the diseases that lurked failed to strike. Proof of this is the historically modest volumes harvested in 2012: 25 hl per hectare! This very small yield is the happy outcome of a Darwinian process: “The surviving species are not the most intelligent but those that adapt the best to changes,” declared Darwin. The most fragile berries were eliminated naturally and in the end only the most resistant remained. They also proved the best, with perfectly structure. Having captured the vines’ energy, they improved over time and in the end were amazingly concentrated, giving this vintage unexpected substance. March 2013
  • 29. 2012 in Sauternes Complex harvests, low yields and drastic selection will undoubtedly result in some very fine wines! How was the 2012 vintage in Sauternes and Barsac? There cannot be one answer to this question. In Sauternes and Barsac, every vintage is something of an adventure. The combination of sun, wind, and mist necessary for noble rot to appear can seem subject to the will of the heavens. By chance, for the past ten years, the vineyards producing sweet wines have seen a long series of fine vintages and a few exceptional ones. An unheard of phenomenon in Bordeaux! 2012 will be remembered as a complicated year which often placed considerable strain on the nerves of growers in the region. Spring started warm and dry, and then ended with rain... Two months of summer without a drop of rain, botrytis that had trouble getting started, and very localized storms... The somewhat sluggish noble rot meant that the harvests required extreme patience. In many cases they did not start until October, and were interrupted by spells of rain. Luckily, the last days of the harvests saw an unexpected return of the sun. Every property, and almost every plot, was exposed to different weather conditions, making the harvests a complex affair. Each château had a window of opportunity to pick their grapes. The mosaic of the vineyards was a vital factor, but everyone persevered, dodging the rain drops, picking and sorting the grapes literally one by one, in the meticulous fashion that is unique to Sauternes. For some, the results have been beyond their expectations, given the conditions, and there have been more than a few pleasant surprises. Every owner is responsible for the image of these great wines and this year, more than ever, great care is being taken to maintain the exceptional quality that has been developed over the years. The selection performed at the vineyard will be improved by highly selective blendings and few will be owners not producing a high quality vintage. ... 28
  • 30. The sweet wines of 2012 have a striking aromatic purity. The wines do not rely on power, impressing instead with finesse, delicacy, smoothness and a freshness that augurs well for the wines’ long-term balance, with a style that is more ethereal than in recent years. And which should delight wine lovers… 29
  • 31. Xavier Planty, Manager of Château Guiraud, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Sauternes Harvest Journal 2012 Monday, September 10th: the start of the dry white wine harvest! 100 harvesters arrive at Château Guiraud and are kitted out with baskets and pruning shears. At 12:30, the team reunites in the courtyard for lunch and to prepare a fresh start to the afternoon. The harvest of the G de Château Guiraud will last for two weeks; the last press is planned for Monday, September 24th. Wednesday, September 19th: there is concern! Maybe it’s just that time of year, but the botrytis still hasn’t started its work yet, it’s been too dry (which has dessicated some grapes) and too cold at night. We have only had two warm nights and a little morning fog to start the process, a situation we haven’t seen since 1985. Mercifully, conditions were ideal on the night of Tuesday to Wednesday. Temperatures stayed above 10°C, a relief after so many nights that were too cool for the perfect alchemy we need for Sauternes. We also had some light rain, which the sun generously dried out with a little help from a gentle breeze. Has the botrytis finally arrived? Thursday, September 20th: a cool morning – too cool. The thermometer seems to be playing tricks on us again, threatening to undo all the beneficial effects of the night before. The powdery botrytis fungus demands a perfect trinity of water, wind and sun and 2012 is reminding us that it is this precious balance of conditions that makes our golden wines so exceptional. So we wait, and while we wait we harvest the splendid Semillon grapes for our delicious dry white wines. Friday, September 21st: the night brings hope! The temperature has kindly decided to stay above 15°C. A sprinkle of rain in the morning gives way to a beautiful sunny afternoon…..can we get out the secateurs for the Sauternes? ...30
  • 32. Sunday, September 23rd: two nights in a row above 15°. There was a little rain and some fog yesterday morning but not today….the grapes seem to be changing, complicating things for us. We are heading for what we call the “black hole”: the point where we can no longer make any more dry white wine, but cannot yet begin our magnificent Sauternes. We hope it won’t last long! Tuesday, September 25th: the last morning of harvest for the dry whites. It has taken a total of nine and a half days to harvest the G de Château Guiraud 2012. In the cellars, the barrels are softly humming. Music to our ears! Monday, October 1st: a full moon last night. It’s cool outside, we lit the fire in the château last night for our second Festival of the Moon. Luckily, the weather forecast says that things are going to warm up again. The secateurs are ready and our friend Botrytis is beginning to show his face. Just a few more days and we’ll be there! Thursday, October 4th: the pickers are back in the vines, this time for the Sauternes! We make an intial trie or sorting to clean the vines with a helping hand in the morning from local nursery school children. Tuesday, October 9th: we continue our cleaning process then, finally, the first batches of Sauternes enter the cellars. But things really are far from straightforward this year as, even as late as yesterday evening, we were not sure if we would be able to harvest. Our pickers had to call at 7:30 this morning to find out if they were needed or not. Friday, October 12th: another cloudy morning. Fog and the occasional sunny period between showers has persisted for the past three days. Rain stops us harvesting today. Thursday, October 25th: we begin picking again after 12 days of non-stop rain. ... 31
  • 33. Monday, 29th to Wednesday 31st October: three days that save the harvest… Thursday, November 1st: the harvest ended at 10:00. We were hastily driven out of the vines when the dark skies overhead opened up and the rain started to pour, So it’s over….only three days allowed us to bring in a harvest worthy of Château Guiraud. We’ll have to wait until the vinification is over to see if the 2012 vintage kept its promise! “We harvested botrytised, concentrated grapes on only three days: 29th, 30th and 31st October. Before and after those dates it was OK but there was really nothing very good. In thirty years of winemaking I have only experienced this three times, in 92, 93 and 94.Fortunately, these three fine days, a rare occurrence in late October, will enable us to make some premier cru. Our honor has been saved!» Xavier Planty The thirtieth vintage will bear the wine maker’s touch and Monsieur Planty’s signature. February 2012 32
  • 34. Patrick de Montal, Owner of Domaine d’Arton, Côtes de Gascogne This was a year of dramatic climatic contrast: • Winter temperatures plunging to -18°C with 20cm of snow • A rainy spring • A dry summer with less than 20mm of rain in 2 months. Vine Cycle Summary We experienced early budding then a slow-down due to a wet, cool spring. A hailstorm struck the property in full force, resulting in crop losses of 50%, rising to 70% on certain plots. Extremely staggered flowering in poor conditions (cool temperatures and rain meant floweing lasted over a month.) After the rain came good, even great, weather and we even had a summer drought. Véraison began around August 8th although there was nearly a two-week difference between berries on certain bunches. Harvest The harvest began on September 10th for the Sauvignon and ended on October 29th, with the Petit Manseng that goes to make our late-harvest wine, Victoire. Overview The highlights were definitely the harvest, which took place in ideal weather conditions (cool and sunny). On the downside, there were significant variations in maturity, a low yield due to hail and stalled ripening due to drought. ... 33
  • 35. Despite its many drawbacks, the 2012 vintage has produced by fruity, supple wines. It was a difficult year, both in terms of maintaining vine health (pressure from disease caused by spring rain), as well as determining the optimal harvest date. Tasting the berries was a determining factor in the final decision to start picking. January 2013 34
  • 36. Miren de Lorgeril, Owner of Lorgeril Vineyards, Languedoc Roussillon 2012 vine cycle The wetter years are good years in our hot, sunny climate so the fact that good rainfall replenished water reserves in the soil, enabled the vines to thrive throughout the vegetative cycle.They developed well, with well-balanced vegetative growth until late August, even though the bunches were small with few berries, which meant a small harvest. Summer was pleasant; there was no heat wave but there were the three usual thunderstorms and heavy rain at the end of September, which cooled things down. Clear skies lowered night time temperatures, leading to slow maturation despite warm afternoons. These variations in temperature between day and night favour slow maturation and aroma development and our plots located at a higher altitude, where the conditions are even cooler, proved even more precious. The weather was exceptionally good during the harvest. Our team had been well prepared and motivated by Bernard DURAND, our new technical director who joined us last winter, after having managed François LURTON’s Sud production for 17 years. We harvested for more than 6 weeks, from September 10th (to increase freshness in the Chardonnays and rosés) until October 25th for the last Cabernets and November 3rd for the late-harvest Chardonnays. Again, to maintain maximum freshness, we harvested much more at night than in previous years. 2012: Strengths and weaknesses We had to pay particular attention to the condition of the grapes this summer because oïdium was ever present; missing a treatment on a few rows of Chardonnay gave us a glimpse of what damage we might have had. We continue, however to use sustainable growing methods and traceability to protect the health of the vines, while using the smallest quantities of product possible. ... 35
  • 37. As the autumn was quite cool, late varieties (Mourvèdre in the areas closest to the Mediterranean and Grenache and Cabernet in Cabardès) needed time to ripen but as the grapes were in good condition, we were able to wait for complete, slow maturation and wonderful freshness, all of which explains why the harvest lasted so long. 2012 characteristics The 2012 vintage has very attractive fruit, freshness and balance, thanks to this year’s key elements: • Cool temperatures allowed particularly slow maturation, which helped by night harvesting and cold maceration, resulted in great freshness and fruit. • The excellent condition of the crop allowed us to adapt our harvesting (over 6 weeks) to the pace of maturation on each terroir and in each variety, making the 2012 vintage very balanced. Fermentation proved steady, with no acceleration or wide variations in temperature and it was easy to extract colour, aromas and tannins. This year’s wines are consequently even more fruit-driven than the 2011s; they are fresh, juicy and elegant with ripe tannic structure. Thanks to soft extraction, we believe that we have continued to progress, in particular at Ciffre in the Roussillon and at La Livinière, where the wines express beautiful, intense fruit. • We will produce a grand vin in ‘Latour de France’ Roussillon villages, which we think has remarkable finesse this year. • We may be making a white grand vin, but more of that later… January 2013 36
  • 38. Nicolas Perolini, Technical Manager at Château Lauzade, Côtes de Provence With a cold winter, followed by hail and then drought, the 2012 vintage caused us a few sleepless nights, Winter was particularly harsh with temperatures close to minus 15°C, the most obvious results of this were frost-burnt buds and lower yields. In spring, hail struck the Var department and it passed only a few kilometers away from us. To give an idea of the devastation it caused, some neighbours lost their entire 2012 harvest as well as next year’s. Then, between May and August, we had very little rain. Fortunately, the water table was high and thanks to the care we had given the vines, they managed to reach these reserves and produce beautifully healthy, ripe grapes. September rain helped to increase volume. August saw the renovation of our concrete winery and the installation of a temperature- control system. As work finished only days before of harvest, I leave you to imagine the stress levels! However, the combination of healthy, balanced grapes and the improvements in the winery gave us the time to follow the progress of our various vats in relative calm. Harvesting took place in late August for a few days, with a brief pause to let the plants absorb the rain. It then continued until mid-October, without interruption. Today, the final blending of the rosés and whites are finished and promise some very pleasurable wines. We are currently finalising the second phase of our future investments at the winery that will enable us to make a quantum leap in our ability to tame this unique and magnificent terroir. January 2013 ... 37
  • 39. Guillaume et Soledad Tari, Owners of Domaine de La Bégude Bandol After a cold and particularly snowy winter, our soil had sufficient water reserves to confront an extremely dry summer: three months without the slightest drop of rain… We didn’t experience the usual mid-July and mid-August rainfall and had to wait for the end of August for the first storm. To our delight this brought light, welcome rain that eased our fears about the halt in the ripening process. At that point it became a waiting game, though fortunately the excellent weather conditions enabled us to do so with confidence. We started harvesting on September 24th and finished picking, as usual, on October 10th in the last appellation. Given the great diversity of soils and exposure of our plots at Bégude (17 hectares spread over 24 plots on 500 hectares of scrubland), our harvest is always prolonged, so that we can choose the optimal time for harvesting on each plot. Due to the mineral character of the sites and their exposure to the Mistral wind on the highest point of the Bandol appellation, the yield was just 22 hectoliters/hectare. The grapes were wonderfully healthy and we could afford to take our time. As every year, the rosé vinification proved long, ending in December. The reds finished their malolactic fermentation in January. This year we even harvested some white from the wild boars’ favorite plot (!)- a cool valley, protected from the sometimes overwhelming heat of Provence, it yielded about 1,000 bottles. At the moment, the vintage seems to be characterised by good concentration and balance, though still with the freshness that is the hallmark of the estate thanks to its altitude and the wide range of day and night temperatures. The wines have great promise for the future. February 2013 38
  • 40. 2012 a rare and precious vintage in Burgundy 12 November 2012 A first! That is what Bourgogne’s winegrowers are saying about this year’s weather. Given Mother Nature’s whims, they had to redouble their efforts to ensure the very best results from their vines. And the first tastings confirm that all their hard work was worthwhile. From the north of Bourgogne to the south, the industry is unanimous - the quality of this year’s nascent wines is excellent, surpassing all expectations given the weather. The only downside is the quantity which is below average, down as much as 20% according to some estimates. (Definitive figures will be available in early 2013). A mild winter, a chilly spring with frosts, a warm May, a cool and rainy June, an unstable summer, a heat wave, hail and storms - weather like this could not fail but affect the vines. The cold and rain in spring caused shatter, where some flowers fail to turn into fruit; millerandage where incomplete fertilization of the flower giving rise to small berries; and a big threat from both downy and powdery mildew. The brief hot periods in summer brought some very high temperatures that burned the fruit. These phenomena, which occurred before the grapes ripened, meant yields were significantly lower this year, but had no impact on the quality of the grapes. On the contrary, aerated bunches of smaller berries guarantee concentration and intensity. Having had to manage the elements and struggle on a daily basis, both man and materials have emerged from this vintage worn out, yet victorious. During the harvest, which took place under sunny skies, the grapes being welcomed into the wineries were healthy and showed no signs of disease or rot. The scarcity of the 2012 vintage will only serve to make the wines even more precious! 39
  • 41. Jacques Lardière, Maison Louis Jadot, Burgundy A vintage born of chaotic climatic conditions and contrasts. Wine makers need to keep a close, meticulous watch on the progress of their vines every year but in 2012 they had to brace themselves for an unrelenting battle against cryptogamic diseases to save the crop. It was hard going, but in the end Nature saved us from rot and the grapes that came in to the winery were of astonishing quality. It put broad smiles on our faces, smoothing the worry lines that had got deeper and deeper over the months. Of course, any talk of the 2012 vintage in Burgundy is only of the 50% of the harvest that was actually saved, because the year’s chaotic weather – not to mention the hail – meant only half the normal crop was picked. Fortunately, the quality of the wines is superb. As maturation continues, the reds are beautiful and the whites are increasing elegant and with no trace of heaviness. It is a style that should please all wine lovers. December 2012 40
  • 42. Charles Philipponnat, General Manager of Champagnes Philipponnat and of Clos des Goisses, Champagne Monday 24th September 2012: Philipponnat has just finished harvesting its grapes. Picking started on September 13th but stopped between the 15th and 18th to allow the grapes to reach optimum ripeness. The winter and spring frosts, the cold spell just after flowering and the coulure that followed put paid to any hopes of a generous harvest in terms of quantity. We also lost a few bunches to mildew but the foliage was protected and stayed a healthy green, ensuring good photosynthesis. The wet weather in July generated a lot of work, especially weed control that is now carried out entirely mechanically. We use a tractor equipped with an intercep or under- vine tool, a cart horse and even, on the steep slopes of the Clos des Goisses, manual weeding with a small hoe. Yields were only 6,000 to 7,000 kilos/hectare producing a cuvée, (the first and only pressing that is used at Philipponnat) of 30 to 35 hl/ha. Quality was, however, very satisfactory, especially the Pinot Noirs, whose exceptional sugar content (11.5° to more than 12°), was higher than in 1976, 2000 or 2003. This was combined with excellent acidity (due to an exceptionally dry August, three dry weeks in September and cold nights) that was even better than in 1996. The high proportion of malic acid will enable the wines to retain well-balanced freshness. The old saying proved to be true: August makes the must. An unusual feature of this vintage was that the Clos des Goisses grapes were a little less ripe than the Ay grapes (the basis of the 1522 cuvée). The yield for the latter was slightly better as the vines on the warm soils of this terroir flowered before the cold spell in June. The musts were clear with little or no oxidisation and already present excellent ... 41
  • 43. aromatic qualities.The best are already fermenting in oak, a good sign, suggesting purity and longevity. Things will be clearer in a few weeks when the still wines are tasted but already, what we are seeing now is somewhere between 2002 and 1959, two of Champagne’s greatest vintages. September 2012 42
  • 44. Karim and Sandro Saadé, Owners of Chateau Marsyas, Lebanon Autumn 2012 was very rainy, followed by a cold, very snowy winter and more heavy rain, much heavier and more prolonged than normal and which only stopped in early April. There followed a hot, dry spring and a hot summer, with a heat wave in late June. Yields were reduced to provide optimum ripening of the skins and to avoid berry dehydration. The harvest started in the third week of August and finished a month later. February 2013 43