1. There
is
nothing
like
the
wind
in
your
face
listening
to
that
old
John
Deere
20
or
30
series
tractor
riding
across
the
field
with
a
plow
or
hay
rake
in
a
comfortable
Float-­‐Ride
seat;
so
long
as
your
seat
actually
floats
instead
of
bouncing
the
driver
like
on
a
trampoline.
According
to
an
operator
manual
for
a
John
Deere
model
730,
“The
John
Deere
Float-­‐Ride
seat
will
give
you
the
most
comfortable
tractor
ride
you’ve
ever
had.
Two
rubber
torsion
springs
and
a
shock
absorber
provide
a
gentle,
floating
ride
over
the
roughest
fields.
Tension
on
the
rubber
torsion
springs
can
be
varied
to
compensate
for
the
weight
of
the
operator
by
turning
a
convenient
handle
on
the
back
of
the
seat.
”
The
Float-­‐Ride
seat
was
a
true
innovation
in
more
comfortable
and
posture
friendly
seats
offered
by
John
Deere.
They
were
introduced
in
1956
on
the
then
new
20
series
tractors
built
in
Waterloo,
Iowa
(520,
620,
720,
and
820
models)
and
continued
with
no
changes
into
the
last
of
the
two
cylinder
powered
30
series.
It
is
little
known
however
that
John
Deere
actually
offered
the
Float-­‐Ride
seats
for
retrofit
on
earlier
model
tractors
including
the
50,
60,
70,
80,
late
Styled
A
–B-­‐
G-­‐R
tractors
that
had
battery
boxes
under
their
seats.
Many
years
of
use,
abuse,
and
aging
have
taken
a
toll
on
original
Float-­‐Ride
seats
leading
most
often
to
failure
of
the
rubber
torsion
springs.
From
personal
experience
it
seems
that
nearly
all
of
the
seats
I’ve
rebuilt
had
a
non-­‐functional
shock
absorber;
imagine
for
a
minute
having
never
replaced
the
shocks
on
a
car
from
1957!
The
various
bushings
and
pins
are
most
likely
worn
beyond
good
service
as
well.
With
some
good
fortune
the
seat
itself
won’t
have
been
damaged
or
farmer-­‐modified.
It’s
not
all
that
rare
to
find
a
Float-­‐Ride
seat
which
has
had
some
of
the
thin
metal
skirts
at
the
front
or
rear
which
are
rusted
through,
cracked,
or
torn.
Unless
the
tractor
was
maintained
above
normal
for
the
last
55
plus
years,
the
tie
bar
that
adjusts
the
torsion
springs
is
most
likely
rusted
solid.
Other
items
to
consider
when
addressing
the
Float-­‐Ride
seat
are:
Battery
box,
battery
cables,
rear
seat
light,
seat
cushions,
seat
decals,
warning
plate
(fastened
to
rear
of
the
battery
box).

2. Taking
a
trip
to
the
dealer
today
to
price
the
items
necessary
to
completely
overhaul
the
original
Float-­‐Ride
seat
might
make
you
wish
you’d
been
sitting
down.
Fortunately
Steiner
Tractor
Parts
has
all
of
the
required
new
parts
to
completely
overhaul
your
worn
out
Float-­‐Ride
seat
and
other
related
items.
Please
take
the
time
to
look
at
the
part
diagram
with
lettered
parts
A
through
T
and
familiarize
yourself
with
the
part
names
and
refer
back
often
to
see
how
everything
fits
together.
Before
ordering
Float-­‐Ride
seat
parts,
it’s
advisable
to
check
over
your
seat
and
make
a
list.
If
you’re
torsion
springs
are
visibly
cracked,
torn,
or
adjusted
to
the
maximum
and
still
won’t
hold
up
the
seat
when
you
sit
on
it
plan
on
replacing
them.
When
replacing
the
torsion
springs
a
new
pin/bushing
set
should
also
be
installed
to
ensure
proper
seat
function.
I’d
compare
replacement
of
torsion
springs
without
the
bushings
and
pins
to
overhauling
an
engine
by
only
replacing
the
pistons
&
rings
and
overlooking
the
crankshaft
and
cylinder
head;
omitting
such
important
parts
just
wouldn’t
make
sense.
Removal
of
the
seat
shock
and
moving
the
shock
in
and
out
by
hand
is
a
very
effective
way
to
determine
if
it
has
any
resistance
or
lack
thereof
which
would
require
replacement.
If
the
battery
box
is
loose
check
to
see
if
it
is
rusted
out
on
the
bottom
(battery
removal
is
important
to
really
inspect
any
battery
box).
The
front
and
rear
sections
of
the
battery
box
near
to
where
the
Float-­‐Ride
seat
attaches
are
prone
to
stress
cracking.
A
quick
check
of
the
seat
cushions,
backrest,
and
rear
light
should
round
out
the
Float-­‐Ride
seat
parts
check
and
get
you
ready
to
place
a
parts
order.
Whether
a
beginner
or
someone
with
5+
Float-­‐Ride
rebuilds
under
the
belt,
it
would
be
prudent
to
consider
the
Seat
Installation
Tools
(JDS2541)
to
make
the
job
much
more
tolerable
and
less
likely
to
push
someone
to
losing
their
Religion
during
the
process.
The
JDS2541
ends
the
difficulty
encountered
when
installing
the
rubber
torsion
springs
and
the
infamous
adjusting
tie-­‐bar.
Aside
from
the
JDS2541
tool
mentioned
above
and
a
SAE
full
wrench/socket
set,
the
following
tools
will
be
necessary
to
attempt
a
Float-­‐Ride
seat
rebuild.
• Several
Hammers
(small
&
large
Ball-­‐Peen
&
Dead-­‐Blow)

3. • Straight
punches
or
brass
drifts
• Safety
Glasses
(eye
protection
is
key
with
hammers,
chisels,
&
punches)
• Roll-­‐Pin
punches
(if
you
don’t
own
some,
now
would
be
a
great
time
to
get
them)
• Small
bushing/seal
installer
set
(with
drivers
to
set
the
bronze
bushings)
• Several
small
pieces
of
lumber
(2x4
or
2x6
less
than
12”
length)
for
use
during
the
assembly
process
per
the
video
• At
least
two
6
inch
C-­‐clamps
• Quick
Grip
type
clamps
(not
a
must
have,
but
very
helpful)
Once
you
have
determined
what
parts
will
be
needed
to
repair
&
rebuild
you
seat
and
they
have
been
ordered
(or
perhaps
you
would
like
to
wait
and
see
what
you
find
after
disassembly)
it
is
time
to
get
down
to
business.
To
start
off
the
process
it’s
a
best
practice
to
disconnect
your
battery(s)
and
remove
them
from
the
battery
box.
Experience
has
taught
me
not
to
chance
working
around
batteries
with
metal
objects
unless
you
want
to
experience
welding
with
a
craftsman
wrench.
You’ll
find
it
much
easier
to
remove
the
batteries
after
you
have
removed
the
seat
frame
by
pulling
out
the
adjustment
knob
on
the
side
and
pushing
it
all
the
way
forward
until
it
disengages
from
the
Float-­‐Ride
frame.
*Note
that
you
must
disconnect
any
wires
for
the
rear
seat
light
before
sliding
the
seat
frame
forward.
With
the
battery(s)
out
of
the
way
loosen
the
four
mounting
bolts
which
fasten
the
Float-­‐Ride
seat
assembly
(the
factory
service
manual
refers
to
the
front
and
rear
plates
as
bulkheads)
to
the
battery
box
(a
9/16in
wrench
is
needed
here).
With
the
bolts
removed
the
Float-­‐Ride
assembly
will
be
able
to
lift
off
the
battery
box.
For
closer
inspection
of
the
Float-­‐Ride
seat
assembly,
a
good
work
bench
or
table
is
quite
handy.
To
begin
it’s
best
to
remove
the
shock
completely
from
the
seat
frame
and
the
bulkhead
(part
that
bolts
to
the
front
of
the
battery
box).
With
the
shock
removed
it
is
rather
simple
to
test
it
for
function
by
extending
and
compressing
it
checking
for
resistance
similar
to
an
automotive
shock.

4. Next,
the
tie
bar
cover
must
be
removed.
To
remove
the
tie
bar
cover
plate
(the
piece
on
the
rear
of
the
assembly
that
covers
the
torsion
springs
from
view)
the
two
3/16ths
inch
roll-­‐pins
must
be
driven
out
of
the
spindles
on
the
rear
bulkhead.
With
the
adjusting
handle
accessible,
drive
out
the
1/8th
inch
roll
pins
that
retain
the
adjusting
handle
pins
in
the
flanges
of
the
torsion
springs.
If
possible
(assuming
that
your
adjusting
handle
isn’t
rusted
solid)
turn
the
adjusting
handle
so
that
to
relieve
any
pressure
on
the
torsion
springs.
Carefully
pry
(use
a
heavy
screwdriver)
to
pull
the
adjusting
handle
pins
out
of
the
torsion
springs.
The
next
step
is
often
one
of
the
most
difficult.
From
years
of
rust
and
corrosion,
the
shafts
attached
to
the
rear
bulkhead
which
go
through
the
bushings
in
the
torsion
springs
are
often
bound
tight.
Sometimes
luck
will
be
on
your
side
allowing
a
few
simple
taps
on
the
bulkhead
with
a
small
hammer
and
everything
will
come
apart
easily.
However,
if
the
rear
bulkhead
doesn’t
come
out
easily
consider
using
some
good
penetrating
oil
and
walking
away
for
an
evening.
The
rear
bushings
are
made
of
ferrous
metal
and
will
often
become
heavily
rusted.
Sometimes
it
is
possible
to
grab
hold
of
the
flange
on
the
rear
bushings
(exposed
after
removing
the
tie
bar
plate)
with
an
adjustable
plier
and
rotate
the
bushing
allowing
the
rusty
hold
on
the
shafts
to
become
loosened.
Take
caution
as
not
to
mushroom
the
shaft
ends
by
hammering
or
driving
them
as
they
will
become
wedged
in
the
bushings
and
create
further
difficulty
removing
them.
Resist
the
urge
to
drive
chisels
to
wedge
between
the
bulkhead
and
the
suspension
arms/torsion
springs/
stabilizing
link
as
to
distort
the
metal
mainly
in
the
bulkhead.
Once
the
bulkhead
is
removed
from
the
suspension
arms/cross
shafts
the
torsion
springs
can
be
removed.
The
pins
which
retain
the
short
links
can
be
driven
out
using
a
punch
and
hammer.
Use
caution
as
not
to
badly
damage
the
thin
bushing
retainers
which
are
inside
of
the
seat
skirt.
If
you
happen
to
accidentally
damage
the
bearing
retainer
tabs
on
the
seat
skirt,
they
can
be
easily
straightened.

5. Drive
out
all
of
the
old
bushings
if
needed
(they
will
sometimes
be
worn
to
the
point
of
falling
out
or
coming
out
in
pieces).
Take
care
to
inspect
all
of
the
bushing
bosses
in
the
seat
skirt.
It’s
fairly
common
to
see
the
bushings
worn
through
after
many
years
of
use
which
if
severe
enough,
might
warrant
the
need
to
renew
the
holes
which
retain
the
bushings
for
the
drive
pins.
Clean
the
shafts
which
come
out
of
the
rear
bulkhead
with
emery
cloth
or
fine
grit
sand
paper
until
all
rust
is
removed
from
them.
This
step
will
ensure
smooth
assembly.
Also,
do
the
same
to
the
short
pins
on
the
front
bulkhead.
If
any
painting
is
planned
this
step
may
be
done
here
as
to
ensure
complete
paint
coverage.
I
personally
recommend
sand
blasting
then
doing
any
cosmetic
repairs
necessary
before
priming
and
reassembly.
It
is
a
best
practice
to
tape
all
bearing
surfaces
prior
to
painting
or
it
will
be
necessary
to
clean
these
surfaces
later
(not
fun).
Hopefully
you
will
choose
to
install
new
bushings,
pins,
and
torsion
springs
at
a
bare
minimum.
Doing
this
will
ensure
the
best
possible
outcome
for
a
properly
operating
Float-­‐Ride
Seat.
If
the
original
adjusting
handle
is
rusted
solid
or
has
been
damaged
it
should
be
replaced
as
it
is
rather
inexpensive
relative
to
the
amount
of
displeasure
of
having
one
that
won’t
adjust
properly.
Reassembly
is
not
extremely
difficult
if
the
various
parts
and
pieces
have
been
cleaned
and
lubricated.
It
is
important
to
note
that
the
torsion
springs
will
need
to
be
clean
in
the
center
bore
to
allow
the
bushings
to
be
installed
without
exerting
extreme
pressure
that
could
possibly
damage
them
during
the
process.
Often,
excess
rubber
from
the
molding
process
will
remain
inside
the
torsion
springs
that
will
interfere
with
the
bushing
installation.
I’ve
found
a
¾
inch
steel
pipe
cleaner
type
brush
when
used
in
a
drill
is
quite
effective
at
cleaning
excess
rubber
and
perhaps
paint
from
the
bore
of
the
inner
and
outer
steel
flanges
of
the
torsion
spring.
Additionally,
the
two
small
and
one
large
mounting
pins
on
the
front
flange
of
the
torsion
spring
(remember
front
is
toward
the
steering
wheel
when
installed
on
the
tractor)
must
be
clean
and
shiny
to
ensure
they
will
give
minimal
difficulty
when
installing
them
in
the
cross
shaft
lift
arms.

6. Before
beginning
assembly,
it
is
best
to
install
all
of
the
small
brass
flanged
bushings
in
the
seat
skirt
(8
short
small
bushings)
and
the
two
slightly
larger
bushings
in
the
stabilizing
link
(connects
the
two
large
solid
pins
on
the
front
flange
of
the
torsion
springs).
The
stabilizing
link
bushings
should
be
installed
with
both
flanges
on
the
same
side
of
the
link.
While
a
bushing
driver
works
well
for
the
stabilizing
link,
it
does
not
normally
work
on
the
small
bushings
that
go
in
the
seat
skirt.
Often,
these
bushings
can
be
installed
with
a
large
flat
screw
driver
and
a
pair
of
pliers.
Take
care
to
ensure
the
bushings
are
properly
seated
with
the
flanges
toward
the
inside
which
will
wear
against
the
short
links
when
they
are
in
place.
The
bushings
(one
brass
and
one
steel)
may
also
be
installed
in
the
torsion
springs.
Due
to
inconsistencies
in
the
torsion
springs,
some
bushings
may
fit
tight
while
others
will
nearly
fall
into
place.
Do
not
worry
about
this
as
it
will
not
matter
when
everything
is
assembled.
After
the
bushings
for
the
drive
pins
are
installed
in
the
seat
skirt
visually
inspect
all
of
them
for
proper
alignment.
It
is
possible
that
the
smaller
bushing
tab
on
the
inside
of
the
frame
could
become
out
of
alignment.
Bushing
alignment
is
important
as
it
is
necessary
for
the
drive
pin
to
be
properly
installed.
When
installing
the
cross
shafts
in
the
seat
skirt
note
that
they
must
go
into
place
at
the
same
time
when
installing
the
short
links
in
the
seat
skirt.
It
is
IMPERATIVE
when
installing
the
short
links
that
they
are
in
the
proper
orientation.
Failure
to
do
this
will
result
in
possibly
damaging
the
flanged
bushing
by
having
to
remove
the
drive
pins.
With
the
seat
skirt
upside
down
on
a
flat
surface
(workbench)
the
end
of
the
link
with
the
bushing
must
be
down
while
the
other
solid
end
is
up.
The
short
link
must
also
be
turned
so
the
flange
is
facing
toward
the
flat
bar
on
the
cross
shaft.
Do
not
forget
to
slip
on
the
metal
spacer
on
the
rear
end
of
the
cross
shaft
which
goes
between
the
cross
shaft
lift
arm
and
the
flanged
bushing
on
the
short
link.
If
you
are
confused
from
these
instructions,
take
a
CLOSE
look
at
the
part
diagram
as
it
shows
the
proper
orientation
of
the
parts
and
bushing
flanges.
When
installing
the
drive
pins
into
the
short
links,
take
time
to
drive
them
from
the
inside
of
the
seat
skirt
toward
the
outside.
Doing
this
ensures
that
the
pins
will
go
in
straight
and
have
a
solid
surface
which
will
take
the
impact
of
being
driven
in.
Remember,
the
drive
pin
is
knurled
so
that
it
will
stay
put
inside
the

7. short
link.
The
drive
pin
should
be
centered
in
the
short
link
and
the
knurled
portion
must
be
clear
of
the
bushing.
If
you
are
unsure
about
this,
simply
flex
the
short
link
&
cross
shaft
noting
if
there
is
little
or
no
resistance
from
the
drive
pin.
Once
the
drive
pins,
sort
links,
and
cross
shafts
/
lift
arms
are
installed
into
the
seat
skirt,
it
is
time
to
install
the
front
bulkhead.
The
shock
should
be
installed
onto
the
front
bulkhead
at
the
same
time
it
is
installed
into
the
cross
shaft
arms.
It
is
also
a
good
idea
to
secure
the
front
bulkhead
to
the
shock
using
plastic
zip
ties
if
available.
Quick
grip
type
clamps
can
also
be
used
to
hold
the
front
bulkhead
into
the
cross
shaft
arms.
Keeping
the
front
bulkhead
in
place
is
very
important
when
trying
to
assemble
the
torsion
springs
and
other
parts.
Next,
install
the
flat
nylon
washers
on
the
shafts
of
the
rear
bulkhead.
These
washers
aren’t
pictured
on
the
part
diagram,
however
are
included
in
the
bushing
&
pin
kit.
It
is
also
advisable
to
smear
a
little
grease
on
the
shafts
to
aide
in
assembly.
Before
installing
the
bulkhead
the
torsion
springs
must
be
fitted
to
the
cross
shaft
arms.
Remember
that
when
thinking
about
the
springs
in
the
LEFT
and
RIGHT
positions
that
it
is
when
the
seat
is
installed
right
side
up
on
the
tractor
and
viewed
when
standing
behind
the
tractor.
With
the
torsion
springs
in
the
cross
shaft
arms,
install
the
stabilizing
link
with
the
bushing
flanges
toward
the
torsion
springs.
With
the
above
parts
in
place,
slide
the
rear
bulkhead
shafts
into
the
torsion
springs
&
cross
shaft
arms.
It
is
sometimes
necessary
to
provide
some
force
with
a
dead
blow
hammer.
The
adjusting
handle
must
now
be
installed.
Support
the
rear
bulkhead
with
a
4x4”
wooden
block
to
ensure
the
cross
shaft
arms
are
in
the
right
position.
It
is
also
advisable
to
use
large
C-­‐Clamps
or
quick
grip
clamps
to
hold
the
torsion
springs
to
the
rear
bulkhead
assembly.
If
you
have
a
set
of
the
special
Float-­‐Ride
Seat
tools
available
from
Steiner
(JDS2541)
they
can
be
used
to
torsion
the
springs
enough
to
install
the
pins
of
the
adjusting
handle
and
secure
them
in
the
flanges
with
the
1/8
inch
roll
pins.
Remember
that
the
adjusting
handle
must
be
installed
with
the
bar
on
the
front
side
(next
to
the
rubber
on
the
springs)
of
the
torsion
spring
rear
flange
and
the
handle
on
the
right
side
(when
sitting
on
the
seat…so

8. upside
down
it
will
be
on
the
left).
Failure
to
do
this
will
require
disassembly
as
the
adjusting
handle
would
interfere
with
the
tie
bar.
If
you
do
not
have
the
proper
tools
to
twist
the
torsion
springs
for
installing
the
adjusting
handle,
following
the
original
instructions
from
John
Deere
will
almost
never
work
and
the
procedure
is
quite
unsafe.
If
you
are
improvising
the
torsion
spring
tensioning
tool,
take
care
to
ensure
whatever
is
done
will
not
tear
or
cut
the
rubber
on
the
torsion
springs.
The
tie
bar
is
the
last
part
to
install
before
mounting
the
completed
assembly
on
the
battery
box.
Slide
the
tie
bar
on
the
rear
bulkhead
pins
with
the
flanged
/
square
edge
toward
the
seat
skirt
(remember
when
installed
the
rounded
edges
must
be
down
toward
the
ground).
This
is
usually
simple,
but
occasionally
the
shafts
will
be
sprung
out
just
enough
to
make
the
process
difficult.
When
you
encounter
this
difficulty
a
large
quick
grip
may
be
used
with
caution
on
the
rear
flanges
of
the
torsion
springs
to
slightly
compress
the
two
shafts
closer
together.
If
there
is
more
than
¼in
of
difference
between
the
shafts
and
tie
bar,
suspect
bent
shafts
(this
may
require
disassembly
to
bend
the
shafts
true).
With
the
tie
bar
slid
over
the
shafts
it
will
be
necessary
to
compress
the
rear
bulkhead
and
torsions
springs
enough
to
allow
access
to
the
holes
in
the
bulkhead
shafts
for
installation
of
the
3/16”
roll
pins.
To
avoid
damage
to
the
tie
bar
place
a
flat
piece
of
steel
or
perhaps
a
1x4”
board
over
between
the
tie
bar
and
the
clamp.
Extra
caution
can
be
used
here
to
avoid
scuffing
paint
by
placing
a
soft
towel
between
the
steel/wood
and
the
tie
bar.
Compress
each
side
of
the
tie
bar
at
a
time
then
install
the
roll
pin
and
drive
it
into
the
shaft.
A
long
set
of
needle
nose
pliers
and
a
roll
pin
punch
greatly
speed
up
the
installation
of
the
roll
pins.
With
the
tie
bar
in
place,
the
Float-­‐Ride
assembly
is
ready
for
installation
on
the
battery
box
(unless
of
course
you
would
like
to
paint
it
before
installation).
Mount
the
assembly
on
the
battery
box
with
the
four
bolts.
Take
care
if
using
new
bolts
that
they
are
the
proper
length
(not
too
long)
as
they
could
interfere
with
the
cross
shaft
arms
as
the
seat
bounces
up
and
down.
Reinstall
the
seat
frame
and
cushion
and
give
the
seat
a
try.
Note
if
there
is
any
binding
and
the
seat
goes
down
and
up
without
any
problems.
It
will
be
necessary
to
adjust
the
handle
on

9. the
rear
according
to
the
driver
weight
and
how
stiff
the
seat
will
react
to
rough
terrain.
Hopefully
these
instructions
have
provided
you
with
the
knowledge
for
rebuilding
the
Float-­‐Ride
seat
on
your
John
Deere
tractor.
Once
you
have
rebuilt
a
few
of
these
seats
the
process
is
quite
simple,
with
the
only
real
surprises
usually
being
the
disassembly
process
from
years
of
rust
and
corrosion.
The
reward
of
a
properly
operating
Float-­‐Ride
seat
is
one
that
will
make
you
wonder
why
you
never
did
it
sooner.
Part
numbers
for
Steiner
Supplied
Float-­‐Ride
parts
Seat
Installation
Tools
JDS2541
JDS533
Seat
Adjustment
Handle
JDS822
x
4
Short
Links
JDS227
&
JDS228
Rubber
Torsion
Springs
JDS489
Kit-­‐
Bushing
&
pins
JDS411
Shock
Absorber
JDS532
Tie
Bar
JDS269
Yellow
Seat
Cushion
with
Internal
Springs
JDS273
x
2
Arm
rest
(yellow)
JDS271N
Seat
Backrest
Yellow
JDS318V12
–
Rear
Red
&
White
combination
seat
lamp
–
12V