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MAGAZINE
                       HARRODS MAGAZINE
                   EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DEBORAH BEE
                  ART DIRECTOR BARNEY PICKARD
                    DEPUTY EDITOR FLEUR FRUZZA
                SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB
   CHIEF SUB-EDITORS LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON
               JUNIOR SUB-EDITOR NICOLA CORFIELD
                       PRODUCER LISA BONNICI
                       ART EDITOR SONJA BURRI
              SENIOR DESIGNER NATALIE MOSQUERA
                JUNIOR DESIGNER RACHEL ESCUDIER
                   FASHION WRITER LAURA JORDAN
                  STAFF WRITER AMY BROOMFIELD
                  EDITORIAL ASSISTANT LOUISE FISH
                    FASHION STYLIST POPPY ROCK
                 FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH
                PICTURE RESEARCHER EMILY SELLERS
            MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR MITCHELL BELK
                      PUBLISHER BETH HODDER
                  ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AISHA ISCEL
             PUBLISHING COORDINATOR SUZY CHAPMAN
            PUBLISHING ASSISTANT ALETHEA QUARTEY
                PRODUCTION MANAGER HAYLEY ELLIS


                   HARRODS STORE IMAGE
                   IMAGE DIRECTORMARK BRIGGS
     GROUP DIRECTOR OF CORPORATE AFFAIRS KATHARINE WITTY
 DIRECTOR OF CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT CHIARA VARESE
      HEAD OF MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS AMBER PEPPER


                       HARRODS MEDIA
               MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR GUY CHESTON
   HEAD OF ADVERTISING SALES & PUBLISHING CHARLOTTE MARKS
ADVERTISING PROMOTIONS AND MARKETING MANAGER ROANNE ORLEBAR
     ADVERTISING AND PROMOTIONS EXECUTIVE PATRICK MARTIN


      MARKETING PROMOTIONS MANAGER   ELLEN PAGLIARULO
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       MEDIA SALES MANAGER, BEAUTY VIRGINIE   HASSEN ALI
        MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, BEAUTY   NATALIE KASSNER
                   MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, FASHION
              JENNY HARRIS, HILBRE STAFFORD
 MEDIA SALES MANAGER, FASHION ACCESSORIES VALENTINA TROTTA
            MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, FASHION ACCESSORIES
           SOPHIE MIDDLETON, LUCINDA ANDREWS
            MEDIA SALES MANAGER, HOME CHRIS SWEET
  MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, HOME ADELE BROUSSE, HON BAN LEE
          MARKETING MANAGER, FOOD HALLS ROMOLA BASU
         MARKETING MANAGER, RESTAURANTS LISA TRUDEAU


   ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES +44 (0)20 7225 5783/5996/5706

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                   WWW.HARRODS.COM


  All information and prices are correct at time of going to press.
 We hope you enjoy reading Harrods Magazine. As we are committed
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                Please email magazine@harrods.com




         104,997
Villeret Collection
                               Complete Calendar Half-Hunter
                               Patented under-lugs correctors
                               Secured calendar and
                               moon-phases mechanism
                               Ref. 6664-3642-55B




Fine Jewellery & Watch Room,
        Ground Floor
VISIT SNOW+ROCK
                              SPORTS, FIFTH FLOOR




                            KJUS                        ZAI
                            MEN’S                       SPADA BRIN
                            WING JACKET                 SKIS




MODEL WEARS: KJUS WOMEN’S ORACLE FULL STRETCH JACKET,
FORMULA FULL STRETCH PANT & KJUS J GLOVES
CONTENTS




          31                                     52                                 58                                     89                           114

     October
     NEW THIS MONTH

17 TOP 20                                                                      74   HIGH FIVE
   Launches, special offers and events for October                                  Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director at Harrods, reveals her
                                                                                    top new beauty treats for this month
21 ZEITGEIST
   People and places in the air right now                                      76   MEN’S GROOMING NEWS
                                                                                    New fragrances from Cartier and Superdry; hair and skincare products
26 WHAT KIRSTEN DID NEXT                                                            from Shiseido; the Grooming Guru tries custom-fit skincare
   It’s impossible to pigeonhole Kirsten Dunst, as her latest role in
   Lars von Trier’s art-house movie Melancholia confirms                            FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE
     FASHION & ACCESSORIES                                                     81   INVEST TO IMPRESS
                                                                                    Quality is at the heart of the latest fashions for the home
31 FLEURS DU MAL
   The new Valentino accessory collection is both demure and dark, with        89   ALL BAR YUM
   forget-me-not florals in shades of purple, blue and black                        Often quirky, always delicious; artisanal chocolates from the world’s
33 WOMENSWEAR NEWS                                                                  best brands are the ultimate in luxury treats
   The 'S MaxMara collection; vintage-style lingerie from Hanro; Gothic-       92   FOOD NEWS
   inspired eveningwear; new label Aqua; Monica Vinader charity bracelets           TWG’s luxury teapots and accessories; a Wine Shop tasting event; the
34 STRAIGHT LACE                                                                    Food Halls’ new Steak House; Rémy Martin’s “Mysteries of Angels”
                                                                                    Cognac and chocolate coffret; Swedish food promotion
   From the ground up, lace is the fabric for the key autumn/winter looks
                                                                              103   GREAT ESCAPES
36 10 MINUTES WITH ROBERTO CAVALLI                                                  Everyone loves a magical long weekend. Here are a dozen destinations
   The king of “more is more” talks leather, leopard and La Dolce Vita              within easy reach, all blessed with very special hotels
36 MY LIFE IN SHOES                                                           108   CITY GUIDE: VENICE
   Church’s brogues are the embodiment of AW11’s tomboy-chic aesthetic              Visiting Venice off season is the perfect way to avoid the crowds and
39 RAYS OF BRIGHT                                                                   explore the city’s hidden treasures
   From pale primrose to the deepest orange, yellow diamonds have             110   PRIZE DRAW
   inspired the latest collections from the world’s haute joaillerie houses         Win a three-night spa break for two in a Spa Suite at Grand Resort
40 SEEING RED                                                                       Bad Ragaz, Switzerland, as well as breakfast and dinner at Äbtestube
   Scarlet accents are the perfect foil to winter’s sombre palette                  restaurant, butler service, spa treatments and airport transfers
42 MENSWEAR NEWS                                                              111   LIFESTYLE NEWS
   Barbour’s Steve McQueen collection; record label Deconstruction                  The new rooftop spa at the Four Seasons Park Lane; a heavenly
   takes up T-shirt design; the S.T. Dupont Élysée fountain pen                     Zermatt chalet; cool accommodation in Sweden’s original Icehotel;
                                                                                    PowerBike, the latest workout innovation; the best of Morocco
44 THE BURBERRY EFFECT
   Christopher Bailey’s reinvention of the Burberry brand is as creative as   112   HARRODS ESTATES
   his trench coats. But there’s so much more to Burberry than clothes              Specialising in prime residential properties in central London and the
                                                                                    Home Counties
48 HOW TO WEAR CAPES
   From Chloé to Chanel to YSL, capes are everywhere this season              114   THE ULTIMATE CRYSTAL GAZING
                                                                                    Champagne flutes and glasses from the new Orrefors by Karl Lagerfeld
52 ROCK THE CASBAH                                                                  crystal collection are almost too heavenly to drink from
   Elaborate, exotic and opulent, this season’s prints are all the more
   extravagant worn boldly mismatched. It’s all in the clash
58 DEAD POETS SOCIETY
   The new way to dress down is to dress up in menswear classics that
   layer on the bookish charm
     BEAUTY
                                                                                    Cover
67 ONLY NATURAL                                                                     PHOTOGRAPHER ISHI
   The latest smart-but-simple skincare uses pioneering technology in the           SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB
   quest for beauty – no surgery required                                           FASHION STYLIST POPPY ROCK
                                                                                    FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH
69 MISS HEAVEN SCENT                                                                PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT
   Reviews four perfumes that celebrate unashamedly maximalist luxe                 CATHERINE O’GORMAN
                                                                                    HAIR PAUL DONOVAN
72 BEAUTY NEWS                                                                      MAKE-UP EMMA MILES
   French perfume house L’Artisan Parfumeur; Guerlain relaunches the Vol            MODEL MILLY SIMMONDS       at Union
   de Nuit collection; Philip Treacy redesigns Slendertone Face; Decléor’s          wearing Burberry Prorsum coat £2,399
   Excellence de L’Age collection; Miss Maquillage goes nail watching               and hat £999



                                                                                                                       Harrods Magazine • harrods.com        15
FABRICS & CARPETS




SOFT FURNISHINGS & FABRICS | THIRD FLOOR
Top 20
                 Launches, special offers and events for October
                 1. Ted Baker dresses
                 Party princesses with an inner scarlet woman will love
                 Ted Baker’s empire-line chiffon dress with a bodice of
                 oversized sequins. £399; exclusive to Harrods. Way
                 In, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com

                 2. Burberry Prorsum AW11 coats
                 Christopher Bailey continues his mission to own the
                 world of coats, with a lambskin shearling version
                 with a mink collar. It’s a snugglefest for all. £4,000.
                 Men’s Designerwear, Ground Floor

                 3. La Perla Divina
                 As seductive as its lingerie, La Perla’s new sultry
                 fragrance Divina starts with strawberries and
                 Champagne, then leads into rose and jasmine
                 grounded by amber and vanilla. 30ml, £31;
                 exclusive to Harrods. Perfumery, Ground Floor

                 4. Parker Ingenuity pen collection
                 Parker’s new Ingenuity Collection features ground-
                 breaking technology in the form of an innovative,
                 flexible writing tip. “Ingenuity” pen £135.
                 The Writing Room, Lower Ground Floor

                 5. Vacca womenswear
                 True to form, Julie Vacca has created bold style
                 statements in her new Vacca collection, integrating
                 menswear fabrics with an oversized paisley print.
                 Blazer £1,775 and riding trousers £750.
                 Luxury Collections, First Floor

                 6. Jimmy Choo bags
                 In tune with the trend for ladylike glamour, the
                 “Rosalie” bag from Jimmy Choo is proper and
                 elegant, especially in black snakeskin. £1,450.
                 Egyptian Hall, Ground Floor

                 7. Leonor Greyl in-store appearance
                 To discover how to really care for your hair, book an
                 appointment with an expert from Parisian haircare
                 brand Leonor Greyl. From 1st to 31st October.
                 Call 020 7225 5954 to book.

                 8. Warehouse partywear
                 Sequins are big news for AW11, as seen on this party-
                 perfect deep-red number from Warehouse. £100;
                 exclusive to Harrods. Way In, Fourth Floor

                 9. Bordeaux tasting event
                 Our most popular tasting event is back on The Wine
                 Shop calendar, serving more than 25 wines from
                 the top châteaux. £40. From 7pm to 9pm on 17th
                 October in The Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor.
                 Call 020 7893 8777 to book

                 10. Tweezerman Mini Crystal Brow Kit
                 Perfect for people on the go, Tweezerman’s Luxe
Wine StockFood




                 Edition Mini Crystal Brow Kit helps to keep brows
                 neat and trim. £96; exclusive to Harrods. Beauty
                 Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com


                                                                           Harrods Magazine • harrods.com   17
TOP 20


 11. Marc Jacobs “Stam” bag
 A pale pink and rose “Stam” bag is the ultimate
 accessory. £2,720; exclusive to Harrods. Room of
 Luxury II, Ground Floor. From 25th September
 to 8th October, there will be a Marc Jacobs pop-
 up shop in Window 6.

 12. Aquascutum “Birette” coat
 Cosy up this winter in Aquascutum’s 100%
 cashmere “Birette” coat with its fox-fur collar.
 £1,500; exclusive to Harrods. Designer Studio,
 First Floor; and harrods.com

 13. Nicki Macfarlane childrenswear
 Tiny bridesmaids will feel like proper princesses in
 Nicki Macfarlane’s ivory silk organza “Eliza” dresses.
 From £389. Children’s Formalwear, Fourth Floor

 14. Octium jewellery
 Fine jeweller Octium’s debut collection includes
 earrings and a ring featuring three rose gold octagonal
 motifs studded with diamonds. “Tri” ring £5,000.
 Fine Jewellery & Watch Room, Ground Floor

 15. Peuterey “Hurricane Air” jacket
 In typical Peuterey style, the new “Hurricane
 Air” jacket is built to withstand extreme weather
 conditions. £675; exclusive to Harrods. Men’s
 Contemporary & Casuals, Lower Ground Floor

 16. Marigay McKee for Origins
 Our Fashion and Beauty Director has designed a
 cool new tote for Origins, with each sale marking the
 planting of a tree in association with the American
 Forests Global ReLeaf Program. £85; exclusive to
 Harrods. Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor

 17. Black & Brown children’s belts
 A new line of belts for miniature fashionistas
 is signature Black & Brown, featuring brightly
 coloured leather finished with Swarovski crystals.
 From £69.95; exclusive to Harrods. Children’s
 Designerwear, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com

 18. Skechers “Pro Speed” running shoes
 Innovative technology gives Skechers’ new “Pro
 Speed” shoes the ability to transform impact into
 reusable energy, literally putting a spring in your
 step. £89.95. Sport & Leisure, Fifth Floor;
 and harrods.com

 19. Whisky and chocolate event
 William Curley chocolate paired with more than 20
 whiskies from all over the world – what better way
 is there to spend an evening? £35. From 7pm to
 9pm on 13th October in The Wine Shop, Lower
 Ground Floor. Call 020 7893 8777 to book.

 20. Clinique bonus time
 A cosmetics bag and miniature make-up and skincare
 goodies are complimentary with the purchase of
 two or more products. From 27th October to 13th
                                                           Whisky Fresh
                                                           Food Images




 November; exclusive to Harrods. Cosmetics,
 Ground Floor


18   Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
MICHAEL KORS BEAUTY




INTRODUCING MICHAEL KORS GOLD
A DECADENT BOUQUET OF MAGNOLIA, FREESIA AND TUBEROSE.
GOLD. YOUR MOST FABULOUSLY CHIC ACCESSORY.
IT’S ALWAYS LUXURIOUS. IT’S ALWAYS GLAMOROUS.

EXCLUSIVELY AT HARRODS, PERFUMERY, GROUND FLOOR
Benvenuti a casa.*
                                                                                  Surround sofa as shown from   £5220
*Welcome home. Surround Sofa.




                                International Lifestyle Furniture, Third Floor. Telephone: 0207 225 6845
Sarah Lamb as Princess
     Aurora in The Sleeping Beauty
                                                                     BALLET The Sleeping Beauty
                                                                     While it is undoubtedly sublime entertainment, The Sleeping Beauty is
                                                                     also a work of profound artistic importance. Scored by Tchaikovksy,
                                                                     it was created for the Tsarist court by Petipa, the choreographer who is
                                                                     to ballet what Shakespeare is to theatre. This Royal Ballet production
                                                                     reconstructs the 1946 Sadler’s Wells revival and incorporates the
                                                                     additional choreography of three generations of great British artists –
                                                                     Frederick Ashton, Anthony Dowell and Christopher Wheeldon. The
                                                                     costumes and choreography are every bit as dreamlike and sumptuous
                                                                     as a fairy tale should be, and the Rose Adagio scene – in which
                                                                     Princess Aurora dances with four suitors at her birthday party before
                                                                     a curse sends her into a 100-year slumber – is magical. Akane Takada
                                                                     and Tamara Rojo are among the ballerinas taking on the title role.
                                                                     22nd October to 21st December at the Royal Opera House

                                                                     FILM The Ides of March
                                                                     Besides exhibiting his effortless charm and devastating good looks
                                                                     in front of the camera, George Clooney has also proved himself an
                                                                     accomplished director. He won an Oscar nomination for Good Night,
                                                                     and Good Luck, an involving tale of McCarthyism in the 1950s shot
                                                                     in black and white, and in The Ides of March – which Clooney both
                                                                     directs and stars in – he again shows how to create engaging drama
                Ryan Gosling in The Ides of March                    from hard-hitting political issues. The subject is the tough choices
                                                                     that idealistic politicians have to make, and that eternal question:
                                                                     what dark deeds must you commit in order to achieve power and
                                                                     do good? Clooney plays the man with his eyes on the White House,
                                                                     Ryan Gosling is the aide experiencing a rapid “getting of wisdom” on
                                                                     the campaign trail, while Philip Seymour Hoffman, Paul Giamatti
                                                                     and Jeffrey Wright exhibit various degrees of Machiavellian virtuosity
                                                                     in the dark art of politics. If you still miss The West Wing, here’s what
                                                                     you’ve been waiting for.
                                                                     The Ides of March opens on 28th October in the UK

                                                                     FILM The Three Musketeers
                                                                     The swash and buckle of this classic novel by Alexander Dumas is
                                                                     given a Pirates of the Caribbean-style makeover to pull in a whole new
                                                                     audience in this $80m production. It is still the familiar story, set in
                                                                     17th-century France, of the young upstart D’Artagnan falling in with
                                                                     the famous Three Musketeers to foil the wicked plans of Cardinal
                                                                     Richelieu and Milady de Winter, but now with a whole new level of
                                                                     action and technology. In this version, battles are fought in the air
                                                                     between gun-laden balloon ships, and Milady (Milla Jovovich) uses
                                                                     spectacular martial-arts skills against her enemies. The cast offers
                                                                     the relishable prospect of Inglourious Basterds’ Christoph Waltz as
                                                                     Richelieu, showing there’s no one better at playing cackling villainy,
                                                                     as well as the intriguing sight of Orlando Bloom playing against type
                                                                     as the devious Duke of Buckingham.
                                                    Arctic Monkeys   The Three Musketeers opens on 12th October in the UK

                                                                     MUSIC Arctic Monkeys
                                                                     The Arctic Monkeys exploded onto the scene a few years back with a
                                                                     historic double-header – reaching number one with their first single,
                                                                     “I Bet You Look Good on the Dancefloor”, followed by Whatever People
                                                                     Say I Am, That’s What I’m Not – the fastest-selling debut album ever in
                                                                     the British charts. The hard-punching combination of guitars, bass,
                                                                     drums and singer Alex Turner’s cruelly barbed lyrics was fresh and
                                                                     vibrant, yet the Sheffield quartet’s cocksure strut also echoed past pop
                                                                                                                                                 The Sleeping Beauty Bill Cooper




                                                                     glories. This year, they released their fourth studio album, Suck It and
                                                                     See, and might be thought pop-rock elder statesman, were they not only
                                                                     in their mid-20s. This concert at The O2 will be proof that rock’n’roll
                                                                     is alive and well, so long as you know where to look. Support comes
                                                                     from The Vaccines, another critically acclaimed British quartet who
                                                                     know their way around lyrics, riffs and melody in a pared-down style.
                                                                     29th and 30th October, The O2



22    Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
ZEITGEIST
                                                                                         Vanessa Redgrave and
                                                                                         James Earl Jones in
                                                                                         Driving Miss Daisy
                                                                                                                    THEATRE Driving Miss Daisy
                                                                                                                    A period drama rich in humour and emotional power, Driving Miss
                                                                                                                    Daisy won the Best Film Oscar in 1989. Now it returns to the stage in
                                                                                                                    a production that’s already won stellar notices on Broadway. Set among
                                                                                                                    the Deep South’s genteel society during the height of the civil-rights
                                                                                                                    movement, this is the story of a septuagenarian white woman, Miss
                                                                                                                    Daisy, and her black driver, Hoke, and how their relationship changes
                                                                                                                    over that turbulent period. Oscar winner Vanessa Redgrave brings a
                                                                                                                    regal bearing to Miss Daisy, while as Hoke, James Earl Jones reminds us
                                                                                                                    why he is one of the most acclaimed US stage actors of recent decades.
                                                                                                                    Until 17th December at Wyndham’s Theatre

                                                                                                                    BOOK Queen Elizabeth II: Portraits by
                                                                                                                    Cecil Beaton by Susanna Brown
                                                                                                                    The same vision of style that enabled Cecil Beaton to capture 20th-
                                                                                                                    century fashion also made him a fine royal portrait photographer.
                                                                                                                    He first took shots of Queen Elizabeth II as a teenager in uniform
                                                                                                                    during her wartime service, and went on to create definitive images
                                                                                                                    of her coronation in 1953 and of her as a royal mother. Next year,
                                                                                                                    to mark the 60th anniversary of the Queen’s ascension to the throne,
                                                                                                                    the Victoria and Albert Museum will be exhibiting Beaton’s portraits
                                                                                                                    of the Queen. This lavishly illustrated accompanying book, by
                                                                                                                    curator Susanna Brown, explores how Beaton captured rare glimpses
                                                                                                                    of the private individual behind the world’s most public figure.
                                                                                                                    £19.99. Available from Books, Second Floor

                                                                                                                    BOOK Heston Blumenthal at Home
                                                                                                                    by Heston Blumenthal
                                                                                                                    Those lucky enough to have dined at Heston Blumenthal’s Berkshire
                                                                                                                    restaurant, The Fat Duck, know why it was voted the world’s best.
                                                                                                                    It has given rise to some imaginative creations – caviar and white
                                                                                                                    chocolate discs and a flaming sorbet, to name but two. To watch
                                                                                                                    Blumenthal’s kitchen adventures on TV, you might have thought that
                                                                                                                    a cautionary note would be, “Don’t try this at home”, but that’s exactly
                                                                                                                    what he helps us do in his new book. It features techniques that
                                                                                                                    adapt molecular gastronomy for the ordinary kitchen, and among the
                                                                                                                    150-plus recipes are such surprising taste combinations as salmon and
                                                                                                                    liquorice, as well as a lesson on how to make perfect fish and chips.
                                                                                                                    £30. Available from Books, Second Floor

                                                                                                                    FILM Contagion
                                                                                                                    Remember the sprawling 1970s disaster movies, such as The
                                                                                                                    Towering Inferno, in which a host of stars struggle to survive? Well,
Driving Miss Daisy Annabel Clark; frame iStock; Queen Elizabeth II portrait V&A Images




                                                                                                                    Contagion gives the format a medical reboot. This time, the disaster
                                                                                                                    is an airborne virus, and Kate Winslet, Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow,
                                                                                                                    Matt Damon and Marion Cotillard are among those facing this
                                                                                                                    lethal threat. The trailer has already caused a sensation, and the film
                                                                                                                    – from Steven Soderbergh (who directed the star-studded Ocean’s
                                                                                                                    Eleven and its sequels, as well as the compelling war-on-drugs drama
                                                                                                                    Traffic) – promises to be as gripping as anything you’ve seen this year.
                                                                                                                    Contagion opens on 21st October in the UK

                                                                                                                    FILM The Adventures of Tintin:
                                                                                                                    Secret of the Unicorn
                                                                                                                    This much-anticipated action-adventure film comes from something
                                                                                                                    of a dream team. Daniel Craig and Jamie Bell lead an all-star cast, the
                                                                                                                    director is Steven Spielberg, the producer Peter “Lord of the Rings”
                                                                                                                    Jackson, and special effects come from the team responsible for Avatar.
                                                                                                                    In other words, this is a class apart from the 3D animated family films
                                                                                                                    of recent years. Adapted from Hergé’s much-loved comic books, the
                                                                                                                    film stars Bell as intrepid reporter Tintin, on the trail of treasure stolen
                                                                                                                    by pirate Red Rackham (Craig). With Tintin, Spielberg brings to the
                                                                                                                    screen a hero whose adventures match the thrills of Indiana Jones.
                                                                                                                    The Adventures of Tintin opens on 26th October in the UK
                                                                                         The Adventures of Tintin


                                                                                                                                                             Harrods Magazine • harrods.com        23
DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF




2 0 TH O C T O B E R – 1 8 TH D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1




                                                        Moroccan chic
                                                            Escape to a magical wonderland this autumn
                                                            as Harrods treats you to an enchanting
                                                            Moroccan extravaganza you will never forget.
                                                            Indulge in a feast for the senses as you explore a
                                                            luxurious mosaic-adorned riad, savour outstanding
                                                            Moroccan hospitality, and select from an array of
                                                            exquisite, artisanal products.
                                                            INSPIRING MOROCCO, THIRD FLOOR
INTERVIEW




                                What
                               Kirsten
                               did next
               From child vampire to tragic Beth in Little Women, romantic comedies to
              action films, it’s impossible to pigeonhole Kirsten Dunst, as her latest role
                in Lars von Trier’s apocalyptic art-house movie Melancholia confirms
                                                                     BY   MATT MUELLER


              Ever since she landed the Best Actress prize at this year’s          summery Louis Vuitton dress – she’s just come from the Upper
              Cannes Film Festival for her role as a depressed bride in            West Side launch of her friend Sofia Coppola’s new Vuitton
              Melancholia, Kirsten Dunst has been feeling in a celebratory         collection – she strides elegantly to our corner table, where
              mood. “It was a big deal; it is a big deal. I keep celebrating,”     she orders chilled radish soup and an iced latté for lunch.
              she says with infectious delight. The celebratory splurge has           For those who haven’t paid attention to Dunst’s career in
              come with friends, family and colleagues. Dunst is proud of          recent years, Melancholia serves as one of those stand-up-and-
              her victory, and rightly so. “I’ve been working in this industry     take-notice moments that any actress with serious aspirations
              for a long time. Even though I’m only 29, it’s been 20 years         dreams of happening. It’s no surprise to hear Dunst say that
              of my life, and it feels good to be awarded something.”              she’s always paid heed to who has won the best actress prize
                 Melancholia comes from the mind of celebrated and                 “because it felt like a really important thing to win as an
              controversial Danish provocateur Lars von Trier. The film            actress in people that I admire”. Cannes’ bigwigs asked Dunst
              features Dunst as Justine, a bride who sinks into a terrible         to stay for their awards ceremony, telling her the film might
              depression on the day of her opulent wedding party but comes         win something. Von Trier, having been declared “persona
              to find a strange comfort in the fact that the Earth is on an        non grata” by the festival following a bizarre rant expressing
              apocalyptic collision course with the giant celestial body of        sympathy with the Nazis, was unlikely to be the recipient
              the title. Impending doom suits Justine – and Dunst rises            but Dunst wasn’t counting her chickens. She borrowed a
              to the occasion with a performance of wonderful depth                dress from Chanel and turned up at the Palme d’Or shindig
              and subtlety against von Trier’s lush dreamscape visuals.            “thinking not negatively but very rationally so that if it didn’t
              The notion of Dunst starring in a seriously adult European           happen, I wouldn’t be upset. When I was speaking to Lars
              art-house film might surprise some people, and it’s not              earlier that day, he said, ‘If I win for anything, please accept
              stretching matters to say that Melancholia is set to galvanise       it on my behalf and say that I’m a big idiot.’”
              the actress’ image and career.                                          As it was, her triumph shifted the spotlight away from
                 For an entire generation, Dunst has been the embodiment           von Trier’s strange antics – and she insists all is forgiven.
              of hip American teendom, but watching her stroll into a              “He’s a friend but the things he said were inappropriate,”
              restaurant in New York’s West Village dispels any notion             she says, adding, “He apologised. He felt very bad because
              that she’s still that winsome high-school cutie with the             it affected all of us.” But it hasn’t tainted her fond memories
                                                                                                                                                       Trunk Archive




              snaggle-toothed smile. She’s still sweet, and cute, the smile        of making the film in Sweden, not least because the fact
              still endearingly imperfect (a trait that gives her beauty an        that the Danish filmmaker had sought her out in the first
              unrefined quality and makes her interesting to watch). But           place “was a huge deal. When he told me that I had the
              today she’s also a vision of sophisticated adult poise. Sporting a   part, I got off the phone, ran upstairs and was just jumping f

26   Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
INTERVIEW




     CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Dunst as depressed           up and down, cheering. I was like a little kid.”            and the film’s director Sam Raimi – now that their
     bride Justine in Lars von Trier’s Melancholia;      For someone who’s been on movie screens since she        participation in the Spider-Man franchise has come
     in Sofia Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides;
     with Simon Pegg in How to Lose Friends           was a little kid (appearing in more than 60 movies to       to an end. Which is why Melancholia, and her
     and Alienate People; as pre-adolescent vampire   date), Dunst has appeared in her fair share of non-         Best Actress victory, have come along at precisely
     Claudia in Interview with the Vampire; playing
     girl-next-door Mary-Jane Watson to Tobey         serious roles. In recent years, she’s probably registered   the right time for Dunst and her career.
     Maguire’s superhero in Spider-Man                most prominently as an endearing romantic comedy               She’s honest about how her experiences have
                                                      presence (Wimbledon, Elizabethtown and How to               informed the character of Justine. Dunst revealed in
                                                      Lose Friends and Alienate People), or as love interest      2008 that she had sought treatment for depression,
                                                      Mary-Jane Watson in the Spider-Man trilogy. But what        and agrees that this difficult time had helped her
                                                      has always marked out Dunst from her Hollywood              understand Justine’s disconsolate depths. “Every film
                                                      peers is an admirable willingness to seek out riskier       I do is a cathartic experience, and I should be able to
                                                      characters – an attribute no doubt instilled in the         take things from my life,” she says. “I think that’s the
                                                      actress by a mother who was happy to let her daughter       only way people feel truly moved by a performance.
                                                      take on the role of the pre-adolescent vampire Claudia      And depression isn’t an easy thing to portray on film.
                                                      in Interview with the Vampire, despite the character’s      People get embarrassed talking about it, so I hope
                                                      overt sexual overtones. It’s a role that many other stage   that people who have been through a similar thing,
                                                      mothers steered their daughters well clear of, and one      or are going through it, will get something out of it.”
                                                      that Dunst remembers with abiding fondness.                 She adds with a smile, “It’s funny when people ask
                                                         “I was like the princess on that film,” she recalls.     me if Melancholia is a sci-fi movie, because it’s not.”
                                                      “Tom [Cruise] was so sweet and Brad [Pitt] is such             With her mother of Swedish-Alsatian heritage
                                                      a nice guy. I was the only girl in a movie with these       and her father German-born, Dunst feels an affinity
                                                      two hunks. I was taken care of very nicely. And I was       for Europe and makes regular sojourns to Germany to
                                                      protected too. My character was sexualised, but my          visit relatives. One of her biggest joys with Melancholia
                                                      acting teacher would describe things in a way that          is the fact that her grandfather, who lives in Hamburg,
                                                      a little girl could relate to, like ‘Imagine that you’re    is “getting all this attention in Germany now”.
                                                      hiding your favourite toy from your brother’ and               “I feel like I have a European sensibility,” muses
      I’m ambitious in                                that would result in me giving a look that could be         Dunst, “and I’m ambitious in the way that I want
                                                                                                                                                                              Melancholia The Kobal Collection; all other images Rex Features


                                                      seen to be coquettish.”                                     to do the best work I can do. I want to push myself.
        the way that                                     From those vampiric origins, Dunst went family-
                                                      friendly for a few years in films like Jumanji and
                                                                                                                  I want to work with great people.” But she isn’t
                                                                                                                  about to turn her back on the mainstream roles that
      I want to do the                                Little Women before striking out into an intriguing         have brought her so much recognition and success.
                                                      late-adolescent phase, playing a suicidal teen in The       She’s worked with von Trier, but she’s not about to
      best work I can                                 Virgin Suicides for neophyte director Sofia Coppola         dash into the film-making arms of any Tomas, Dirk
                                                      –“if I wasn’t in the movie, it would be one of my           or Milos who comes calling. “I like doing big films,
     do. I want to push                               favourites”, she explains. As Dunst reveals, “I’ve          and I miss doing comedies,” she vouches. “I’ve been
                                                      often chosen roles not because it’s the best script but     crying too much on screen recently. I’m ready to
      myself. I want to                               because I can do something different with the role.”        have fun now, for a little while at least.” HMN
      work with great                                 She was also in the frame for some of Hollywood’s
                                                      most coveted young actress parts, landing the key           Melancholia opens on 30th September in the UK
           people                                     role of Mary-Jane Watson in Spider-Man and its two
                                                      sequels. Calling it “a landmark role in my career”,         Matt Mueller contributes to Total Film, Screen
                                                      Dunst admits that she misses “our crew” – that              International, Wonderland, Entertainment Weekly
                                                      is her co-stars Tobey Maguire and James Franco,             and The Guardian

28      Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
THE GENTLEMAN’S LOUNGE,
                    LOWER GROUND FLOOR
© ARAMIS INC.
FASHION

                              Fleurs
                              du mal
                            The scarf – how very demure.
                                  Maria Grazia Chiuri and
                             Pierpaolo Piccioli – how very
                                 dark. The new Valentino
                              accessory collection is both
                            demure and dark, with forget-
                                me-not florals in shades of
                                    purple, blue and black
                                    PHOTOGRAPHER ANDY BARTER
                                     FASHION STYLIST POPPY ROCK




Valentino scarf £210,
exclusive to Harrods.
Available from
Scarves, Gloves &
Hats, Ground Floor;
and harrods.com
                                       Harrods Magazine • harrods.com   31
Q&A

           10Roberto
     SLUG

               minutes
          with
                                     Cavalli


                                                                                                                                                                                         F
              If there’s one thing you can count on a Roberto Cavalli dress                                                                                                                                  ashion’s X and Y chromosomes have gone haywire.
              for, it’s serious va-va-voom factor. Since launching his label                                                                                                                                 From pop’s favourite provocateur Lady Gaga
              40 years ago (Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren were early                                                                                                                                      unveiling her snarling, smoking male alter ego
              fans), Cavalli has set the bar for yacht-party-appropriate gowns;                                                                                                                              (say hello to Jo Calderone) to men in skirts at
              today he counts Jennifer Lopez, Gisele and Cheryl Cole among                                                                                                                                   the SS12 collections (take a bow Givenchy, Rick
              his followers. Ruffles, patchwork, lace, leather and, of course,                                                                                                                               Owens, Yohji Yamamoto) to male model Andrej
              lots and lots of leopard print are Cavalli design signatures. His                                                                                                                              Pejic walking the Jean Paul Gaultier couture
              flamboyant, exotic aesthetic continues through from the main                                                                                                                                   catwalk in a wedding dress, the current buzzword
              line to his newest venture, the Roberto Cavalli Gym collection. In                                                                                                         is androgyny. Undoubtedly, the most pervading example of fashion’s
              Cavalli’s world, more is more. Shy, retiring types need not apply.                                                                                                         current appetite for gender play is the predominantly masculine
                                                                                                                                                                                         mood of winter’s womenswear collections. There are boxy blazers,
                          Leopard print or snakeskin?                                                                                                                                    sharp suiting and tuxedos across the collections – even at that
                          I love leopard print; it’s a part of the Cavalli DNA.                                                                                                          vanguard of unabashed femininity, Dolce & Gabbana. It’s said,
                           Minimalism or maximalism?                                                                                                                                     with a hint of resignation, that “boys will be boys”; well, this season,
                           Maximalism, no question.                                                                                                                                      girls will be boys too if they feel like it.
                           Jennifer Lopez or Victoria Beckham?                                                                                                                              Masculine dressing is empowering in the same way that overtly
                            They’re both good friends of mine. I was in Cannes with                                                                                                      feminine dressing is; it’s a chance to be an amplified version of
                            Jennifer last year. And Victoria, we go way back. She’s so                                                                                                   ourselves. There’s a sense of innate confidence and effortless sexiness
                           sweet and funny; it’s always a pleasure to see her.                                                                                                           to a woman in men’s clothing that says simultaneously, “I don’t
                           Florence or Milan?                                                                                                                                            need to try too hard” and “don’t mess with me” (think of Helmut
                          Florence is my city. I love it for the art, for the culture,                                                                                                   Newton’s iconic 1975 shot of Yves Saint Laurent’s “Le Smoking”
                          for the incredible landscape. But Milan is where I do                                                                                                          suit). Tomboy chic is liberating and intelligent (no toe-crushing
                          my business, it’s where I have my fashion shows and where                                                                                                      stilettos or pleasing-the-wrong-kind-of-man cleavage here).
                         my showroom is.                                                                                                                                                    The definitive tomboy shoe is a brogue (with all its allusions to
                         The Sixties or the Seventies?                                                                                                                                   formal suiting) and the go-to brand for brogues is Church’s, the
                         Ah, the Seventies. I began in the Seventies; I still remember                                                                                                   Northamptonshire-based shoemaker with a worldwide reputation
                         my first pair of printed jeans.                                                                                                                                 for its impeccably handmade shoes. In business since 1873 and
                        Leather or lace?                                                                                                                                                 with a history dating back to 1675, Church’s is the antithesis of fast
                Italians and leather go together. And Florence’s heritage is all tied up                                                                                                 fashion. Sartorially astute women who know the appeal not only
                in the creation of leather, which was first produced here way back in                                                                                                    of smart classics but also of tomboy dressing have already cottoned
                 the 13th century. There are still many workshops in Florence that                                                                                                       on to the timeless appeal of the Chelsea boots, loafers and brogues
                 treat leather in the traditional way.                                                                                                                                   from the quintessentially English brand. Church’s shoes are coolly
                  Sailing or horse racing?                                                                                                                                               detached from trends (any synchronicity with the zeitgeist is simply
                      Sailing. I absolutely love to sail, the feeling of freedom. I’m at                                                                                                 incidental), but for the right amount of hard edge this season, the
                      my happiest when I’m sailing.                                                                                                                                      studded “Burwood” brogues, with their rock-chick detailing, are a
                       Art Nouveau prints or Ming china pattern?                                                                                                                         smart choice. Surprisingly versatile, the mannishness of the shoe can
                                                                                              Florence Getty Images; still from La Dolce Vita Rianna-Pathé/Kobal Collection/Pier Luigi




                        Art Nouveau prints.                                                                                                                                              either be counterbalanced with flirty silhouettes and pretty prints
                          Print or patchwork?                                                                                                                                            or embraced with cropped cigarette pants, tailored shirts and sharp
                          Both are a part of Cavalli heritage, so it’s difficult to choose.                                                                                              jackets. Church’s brogues are a world away from towering heels and
                           My patchwork jeans were a huge success. But prints are                                                                                                        yet equally, if unexpectedly, sexy; this may well be a man’s world,
                           where I started and where my heart is.                                                                                                                        but it would be nothing without some serious tomboy attitude.
                           Ferrari or Ducati?                                                                                                                                            – By Laura Jordan
                           Both. It depends on my mood.
                         Restaurants or nightclubs?
                     Nightclubs. I don’t really enjoy going to restaurants. I prefer
                     to stay at home and eat with friends and family.                                                                                                                    Church’s “Burwood”
                     Photography or painting?                                                                                                                                            brogues £320.
                     I love both. My grandfather was a great painter, but I’m a better                                                                                                   Available from
                     photographer than a painter. I take my camera everywhere.                                                                                                           The Shoe Salon,
                      Cindy Crawford or Naomi Campbell?                                                                                                                                  First Floor
                       Cindy: a goddess and a great friend.
FROM TOP                La Dolce Vita or Roman Holiday?
Jennifer Lopez          La Dolce Vita.
wearing Cavalli;
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Credits TK Images




the Ponte Vecchio       Sexy or romantic?
in Florence; La         Romantic, for sure. I’m a very romantic, emotional person
Dolce Vita;             and I like to take a romantic, traditional approach to design.
Roberto Cavalli
looks for AW11
                     Available from International Designer Room, First Floor

 36      Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
InternatIonal DesIgner room
FIrst Floor
PROMOTION




Charming
bells of May
Elegant and poetic, Shaun Leane’s
new Maybell collection captures the
essence of woodland flowers
He’s renowned for pushing the boundaries in the rarefied world
of fine jewellery, yet Shaun Leane’s creativity never plays second
fiddle to luxuriousness. His jewellery is as beautiful as it is
provocative, as exquisite as it is innovative. His distinctive
aesthetic – romantic with a dark edge – has won him a number of
influential fans and collaborators over the past two decades. These
include Alexander McQueen, for whom Leane created stunning,
often macabre, always theatrical jewellery, and that icon of
avant-garde couture, muse and heiress Daphne Guinness. This
coupling of artistic vision and intricate craftsmanship has seen
Leane named UK Jewellery Designer of the Year on four
occasions. His latest coup is the prestigious Couture Design
Award, which he picked up for a bespoke necklace, inspired by
the nocturnal-blossoming Queen of the Night flower, designed to
commemorate Boucheron’s 150th anniversary.
   The beauty of the natural world is also harnessed in Leane’s
latest fine jewellery collection. Maybell is inspired by the
elegantly curved blooms of the Lily of the Valley (or May Bell)
and features graceful 18kt white gold racemes (branches) that
bow under the weight of intricate diamond-pavéd flowers. The
bell-shaped blossoms feature on earrings, a ring, a cuff and the       FROM TOP Shaun Leane Maybell
centrepiece of the collection, a dramatic necklace that exemplifies           collection 18kt white gold,
Leane’s outstanding artistry.                                                diamond and cultured pearl
                                                                        necklace £9,150; 18kt white gold
                                                                        and white diamond ring £3,550,
Available from Designer Jewellery, Ground Floor                       earrings £12,550 and studs £2,245
STYLE
 SLUG




                                                        Seeing red
                                                Top to toe is not for the faint-hearted,
                                                 but scarlet accents are the perfect
                                                   foil to winter’s sombre palette
                                                                                           Stylist Becky Branch
                                                                                           Credits TK Images




     Available from Men’s Accessories, Men’s Contemporary & Casuals,
     Men’s Lab and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s
     Designerwear and Designer Jewellery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com


40   Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
Exclusively at Harrods.   Sport & Leisure, Fifth Floor
NEWS

                                                            Barbour channels
                                                            Steve McQueen
                                                            Back in 1964, so the story goes, when the US motorbike
                                                            racing team were en route to East Germany to compete

                                                                                                                               Pens with
                                                            in the International Six Days Trials, they stopped off in
                                                            London. So concerned were they about the weather that

                                                                                                                               panache
                                                            they decided they needed special European rain- and
                                                            mud-resistant jackets. The Barbour International was
                                                            their jacket of choice and thus was inducted into fashion’s
                                                            hall of fame. To celebrate its 75th anniversary, Barbour       The reputation of S.T. Dupont’s
                                                            is relaunching the jacket in distressed olive or black,       fountain pens leapt about a billion
                                                            each resplendent with a stars-and-stripes lining.              notches when they were adopted
                                                            “Penton” jacket £429. Available from Menswear,                   by the President of France in
                                                            Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com                             the 1950s. Although the brand
                                                                                                                            had an international reputation
                                                                                                                           for fine writing instruments that
     ON TREND TO A “T”                                                                                                       stems back to the late 1800s,
                                                                                                                            the appointment to supply the
     Deconstruction needs no introduction                                                                                    French government gave the
                                                                                                                             brand a new gravitas. Named
     to club-culture vultures. Dance-music                                                                                  after the presidential residence,
     lovers who like to wear their hearts on their                                                                            the new Élysée pen lives up
                                                                                                                             to its powerful connections.
     chests will party all night long for the brand’s                                                                        Available in black lacquer or
     new T-shirt line featuring slogans and graphics                                                                         palladium, the fountain pen,
     made famous by the record label. And,                                                                                   rollerball and ballpoint have
                                                                                                                               a smooth writing action,
     according to Mark Farrow, Creative Director                                                                                 thanks to the patented
     of Deconstruction, the T-shirt is just the start.                                                                            S.T. Dupont gel ink.
     On the horizon is a full collection of garments                                                                         From top “Elysée” fountain
                                                                                                                             pens £380, £390 and £500.
     that sum up the aesthetic of the legendary                                                                                      Available from
     dance-music imprint. T-shirts £39.95 each.                                                                                   The Writing Room,
     Available from Men’s Lab, Lower Ground Floor                                                                                Lower Ground Floor




                                                                                         RETRO SKI JACKETS
 It’s all
 in the
 jeans
     This season your jeans should mainly be slim, dark
     and a little worn-in, with a couple of strategically
     placed snags for good measure. Ahead of the
     denim curve as usual, Evisu is launching a capsule
     collection of just such jeans – narrow leg in
     “worked” wash – to celebrate its 20th anniversary.
     The three new styles each feature a limited-edition
     special sign-off, including pocket prints, back-
     pocket embroidery and a surfeit of platinum-
     coloured rivets across the waistband. They also
     display the famous Evisu seagull logo, slimmed
     down and sleeker – handily matching the mood
     of the jeans. Jeans £129. Available from
     Men’s Lab, Lower Ground Floor



42     Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
Available at Harrods on

Men’s Contemporary & Casuals, Lower Ground Floor
    The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor
        Luxury Collections, First Floor
          Sport & Leisure, Fifth Floor
FASHION
 SLUG




      The
     Burberry effect
     Christopher Bailey’s reinvention of the Burberry brand is as smartly creative
     as his trench coats. But there’s so much more to Burberry than clothes
     BY   DEBORAH BEE/ PHOTOGRAPHER ISHI/SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB




                        C
                                              all me dull, but on a June       Angeles. In March 2011, Burberry Prorsum’s AW11 collection
                                              morning last year, on my         became the most-viewed show ever. The show was live-streamed
                                              walk to work, I decided to       to screens in Piccadilly Circus and through multiple-media formats,
                                              count trench coats. I don’t      and has been viewed by more than 80 million people. The opening
                                              usually count trench coats.      of its largest store in China, the Burberry Beijing event – which
                                              In my impromptu survey,          included a 3D virtual and real-time fashion show – has been viewed
                                              I allowed: any shade of beige,   by 1.3 billion people. This is fashion as we now know it.
                                              brown, pastel or cream, plus        Burberry’s vast global HQ on Horseferry Road in Westminster
     white, cropped or long, pedestrians only, and just women. On a            is as imposing a structure as you would expect from a 1930s
     12-minute, not-so-busy stretch of Covent Garden, I counted 57.            ex-government building. Behind the automatic plate-glass doors,
     This, by anyone’s standards, is a fashion trend gone viral. This is       however, the atmosphere is one of relaxed sophistication – the
     the Burberry effect. A single flap of Christopher Bailey’s creative       receptionists are elegant, the seating precisely positioned, and the
     wings and the world’s high streets are hit by a fashion hurricane.        air ideally conditioned. On vast plasma screens, the world’s most-
        Fashion as we know it began in 1966 when Yves Saint Laurent            watched fashion show is playing out, notching up a few more
     launched the first prêt-à-porter collection; Christopher Bailey was       viewers. On the top floor, taking up the corner office, is
     not yet born. Up to that point, there was haute couture and there         the man at the helm, Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey.
     were dressmakers. The fashion-conscious who couldn’t afford the              “I don’t mind admitting that I’m geeky,” says Bailey, looking
     best Parisian fashion houses relied on their own dressmaking skills,      anything but. He’s wearing the sophisticated uniform of the clever
     or those of the local seamstress, to run up something similar.            and successful – a black, slim-fitting turtleneck and dark jeans.
     To those who knew about such things – that was a bit shoddy.              He looks at least 10 years younger than his 40 years. “I enjoy
        During the 1960s, a new mood was evolving in fashion.                  technology,” he continues. “I like playing with things. I understand
     The traditional drip of trends from the top down was being                technical processes. I couldn’t actually write a program. I have
     undermined by street fashions that were clawing their way up.             a team – an amazing team. I’ve got lots of different teams.”
     The leather jackets, skinny turtlenecks and bubble skirts made               On the way up to Bailey’s office, I’ve been given a tour of
     popular by a new generation of art students were being reinterpreted      the building by the PR team. I’ve seen the lower ground floor
     in cashmere and crocodile for couture customers. The importance           staff café, where the food is free, (“because once you’ve had a
     of this volte-face was not that rich people suddenly had street cred,     coffee, lunch and tea, it really starts to add up”). I’ve visited the
     but that it was harder to tell the “haves” and the “have-nots” apart.     showrooms for each of Burberry’s 50-plus annual collections
     Almost overnight, fashion had become more inclusive.                      for Burberry Prorsum, Burberry London, Burberry Sport and
        When Saint Laurent created his cheaper, off-the-peg Rive Gauche        Burberry Brit and others, as well as Burberry Body, the brand’s
     line, fashion’s democratisation was beginning, sparking a number          new fragrance. On the design floors, the design teams can be
     of other ready-to-wear collections in Paris, then later in London,        subdivided into a button team, a bag team, a coat team etc, each
     Milan and New York. The ready-to-wear shows took their cues from          creatively messy with buttons, bags or coats. In the basement
     couture with twice-yearly schedules – autumn/winter in March and          is the online team, spilling out of a series of studios set up to
     spring/summer in September. And over the next 45 years, nothing           photograph garments, retouch those photos and get them online
     much changed. The traditional showroom presentation has been              within 20 minutes. There’s a social media team. There’s a team for
     replaced by catwalk shows in vast white tents tucked behind the           music. There’s a boardroom designed to look like other Burberry
     classical architecture of each fashion capital.                           boardrooms around the world so that when video conferencing,
        The scale of the shows has increased – at each event there are         the wall-sized screen creates the illusion of one big meeting room.
     likely to be around 60 looks shown on approximately 20 models.            There’s an exhibition atrium and a vast training room. All in all,
     The audience – made up of buyers and the press – is usually               it feels like an inordinate amount of effort to, um, sell clothes.
     around 1,400 people, at most. Until Christopher Bailey.                      “Burberry is about so much more than just clothes,” says Bailey.
        In 2009, Burberry live-streamed its SS10 show directly from            “Burberry is about experiences. It’s about welcoming people
     the show space in London to a worldwide audience, where                   in, whether it’s via social media or via music, through Burberry
     viewers could comment on the collection in real time. The                 Acoustic. Maybe they found us online or went into a store. There f
     AW10 womenswear show was filmed in 3D and shown live at
     simultaneous events in New York, Paris, Dubai, Tokyo and Los              Burberry Prorsum coat £2,399 and belt from a selection

44     Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
Nobody is
     interested in
    just old stuff,
  but people love
   heritage. They
 want the history
   reconstructed
according to how
    they live now




    Harrods Magazine • harrods.com   45
are so many routes to Burberry. These days a brand has to be about
                                      much more than just selling. Otherwise your brand just becomes a
                                      product. I have always thought that you have to make sure that, at
                                      the heart of your brand, there’s more than just product.”
                                         Burberry experiences are currently as follows: Burberry Facebook
                                      has more than seven million fans; Burberry YouTube videos have
                                      been watched by five million people globally; Burberry Art of the
                                      Trench (a social media project that displays photos of fans in their
                                      trench coats) has had 11 million page views; Burberry Acoustic
                                      (a showcase for young British bands) has over eight million fans;
                                      Burberry.com is translated into five languages and is accessible in 45
                                      countries; there are over 300,000 followers on Twitter. Is it hard, I
                                      wonder, for Bailey to keep up with all the traffic that he is creating?
                                         “I embrace that side of social media,” he says. “I love that it’s a
                                      two-way conversation. I don’t read it all – I dip in and out. You
                                      couldn’t look at every single thing. I care about it, but I don’t worry
                                      about ‘comments’, because as soon as you start obsessing about
                                      them, you lose your focus and your point of view, and you’re just
                                      worrying too much about what other people think. I’m not seriously
                                      expecting everyone to like everything we do. It’s just not possible.”
                                         True to his Yorkshire roots, Bailey is straight-talking and for a
                                      fashion bod, refreshingly level-headed. Born in Halifax, the son
                                      of a joiner and a window-dresser, he went directly from London’s
                                      Royal College of Art in 1993 to New York to work for Donna
                                      Karan. Three years later, he became senior designer for Tom Ford
                                      at Gucci. In 2001, at the age of just 29, Bailey took up the reins
                                      of Creative Director at Burberry. Between 2002 and 2011, the
                                      company has grown from being worth £1.1bn to nearly £6bn. The
                                      tired little English label has had a miraculous turnaround, thanks
                                      largely to Bailey’s vision, together with that of Angela Ahrendts,
                                      Burberry’s current CEO.
                                         “I had no reservations about taking the job at Burberry,” Bailey
                                      says. “I saw the potential almost immediately. The brand was like
                                      a huge, incredible diamond that had been trodden into the ground
                                      over the years – a bit dusty and dirty. All we had to do was shine
                                      each of the facets to make it beautiful again. I had a strong sense
                                      that the brand had gravitas. Angela and I had a shared vision, but
                                      we didn’t create the gravitas. Thomas Burberry was an incredibly
                                      innovative man. He understood design and function, and
                                      communicating to people. Burberry had gravitas already; it just
                                      needed translating.”
                                         Burberry’s history stretches back 155 years, to when a 21-year-old
                                      Thomas Burberry opened his first store in Basingstoke, specialising
                                      in outerwear. During the First World War, Burberry’s gabardine
                                      rain-resistant coats proved a lighter, more practical option to the
                                      heavy serge greatcoats that were standard issue, and thus the trench
                                      coat was born. During the 20th century, the Burberry trench coat
                                      led the brand from its zenith during the 1940s and 1950s, when
                                      it was iconic movie-star garb, to its nadir in the 1990s, when the
                                      brand became almost mired in its own history. In 1997, Burberry
                                      hired Rose Marie Bravo as CEO, and the company’s fortunes
                                      changed. In 2001, Bailey came on board and, just a year later, the
                                      company went public on the London Stock Exchange.
                                      Between 2002 and 2006, the company’s profits quadrupled.
                                      Bravo’s successor, Ahrendts, has worked with Bailey on Burberry’s
                                      focus, ensuring that the heritage is relevant for a new generation.
                                         “It’s been my philosophy since I started here that Burberry
                                      needed to exist in a contemporary world,” explains Bailey.
                                      “We needed to use the history and the culture, our 155 years’
                                      worth of stories, as the foundation, but we needed to communicate




46   Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
it in a modern way. Nobody is interested in just old stuff,
                    but people love heritage. They want the history reconstructed
                    according to how they live now.”
                       Bailey’s reconstruction of the Burberry brand starts with product.
                    Every season, a new incarnation of the Burberry trench appears in
                    the Prorsum show – too many incarnations now to even imagine;
                    in pastel-pink ruched silk; with leather biker sleeves; with a fur cape
                    in orange tweed. But the story only begins here. Bailey says that one
                    third of his job is coming up with ideas, one third is executing the
                    ideas, and the final third is making sure the context is right. And the
                    context is where the technology comes in.
                       “I think of Burberry as an old/young company. It’s 155 years
                    old, but the team is really young, so technology is embedded in
                    the culture. Everybody communicates on a mobile device and is
                    obsessed with the internet. I’m obsessed with the internet and I’m
                    not even young. No one can stop it, and it’s faster than all of us.
                    That is the future.” The fact that Bailey has mastered the mix of
                    classic and contemporary in each garment is skilled enough in
                    fashion terms. The fact that each collection dictates at least some
                    of the world’s key trends every season is testament in part to his
                    global reach and belief in fashion democracy.
                       “I hate the ‘exclusive’ mentality,” he states. “I look at it and
                    think, What is that about? I’m much more comfortable with
                    ‘inclusive’. I’m very open about the fact that not everybody can
                    afford a Burberry trench coat. But that doesn’t mean they’re not
                    good enough to be part of the Burberry club. I can’t afford a private
                    jet, but that doesn’t mean I don’t want to look at them. I don’t care
                    if someone visits our website and just stays on Burberry Acoustic
                    because right now, in their lives, they can’t afford to buy a fragrance,
                    bag or coat. I just don’t think it’s right to exclude people – it’s so
                    old-fashioned. Young people don’t think like that. It’s a different               It’s a different
                    generation that thinks you have to exclude people in order to create
                    luxury. The last time I looked, fashion and clothes were there to               generation that
                    make people feel good about themselves, not to make people feel
                    insecure or not good enough. I find it very ugly, vulgar, sad.”              thinks you have to
                       Today the inclusiveness of the Burberry brand extends to stores
                    in 45 countries, from Dubai to Spain. And since spring/summer                    exclude people
                    is simultaneously autumn/winter somewhere else in the world,
                    the collections are trans-seasonal as well as trans-cultural – broad                  in order to
                    enough to cover everything and everyone. “The seasonal collections
                    are all weird now in this industry, something I find frustrating.                  create luxury
                    It’s all slightly nonsense. So we think global – but we’ve always
                    thought global. Thomas Burberry had a store in Buenos Aires
                    100 year ago. Ten years ago we had over 20 stores in China –
                    that was before anyone else even started thinking about China.”
                       But despite the unprecedented success that Burberry has enjoyed,
                    and Bailey’s absolute belief in the power of the internet, some
                    stalwarts of the fashion industry refuse to embrace it. “The internet
                    doesn’t suit everyone,” Bailey concedes. “Some brands might not
                    have the right culture. And it’s not something you can just play at.
                    Either do it properly or don’t bother. Some people are afraid of the
                    internet. If you haven’t grown up with it, it’s daunting. They open
                    up their system preferences and suddenly there’s this gobbledygook
                    of numbers and letters. You need to forget all that. When you buy
                    a building, you don’t get intimidated by the pipes and wiring; they
                    just make your building work for you. The Net is the same. It’s just
                    a vehicle for your message. Another thing to keep in mind is that f

                    THIS PAGE Burberry Prorsum coat £2,500 and trousers £349;
                    OPPOSITE PAGE Burberry Prorsum coat £9,999 and trousers from   a selection
Credits TK Images




                                                                                                      Harrods Magazine • harrods.com   47
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  • 12. Villeret Collection Complete Calendar Half-Hunter Patented under-lugs correctors Secured calendar and moon-phases mechanism Ref. 6664-3642-55B Fine Jewellery & Watch Room, Ground Floor
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  • 14. VISIT SNOW+ROCK SPORTS, FIFTH FLOOR KJUS ZAI MEN’S SPADA BRIN WING JACKET SKIS MODEL WEARS: KJUS WOMEN’S ORACLE FULL STRETCH JACKET, FORMULA FULL STRETCH PANT & KJUS J GLOVES
  • 15. CONTENTS 31 52 58 89 114 October NEW THIS MONTH 17 TOP 20 74 HIGH FIVE Launches, special offers and events for October Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director at Harrods, reveals her top new beauty treats for this month 21 ZEITGEIST People and places in the air right now 76 MEN’S GROOMING NEWS New fragrances from Cartier and Superdry; hair and skincare products 26 WHAT KIRSTEN DID NEXT from Shiseido; the Grooming Guru tries custom-fit skincare It’s impossible to pigeonhole Kirsten Dunst, as her latest role in Lars von Trier’s art-house movie Melancholia confirms FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE FASHION & ACCESSORIES 81 INVEST TO IMPRESS Quality is at the heart of the latest fashions for the home 31 FLEURS DU MAL The new Valentino accessory collection is both demure and dark, with 89 ALL BAR YUM forget-me-not florals in shades of purple, blue and black Often quirky, always delicious; artisanal chocolates from the world’s 33 WOMENSWEAR NEWS best brands are the ultimate in luxury treats The 'S MaxMara collection; vintage-style lingerie from Hanro; Gothic- 92 FOOD NEWS inspired eveningwear; new label Aqua; Monica Vinader charity bracelets TWG’s luxury teapots and accessories; a Wine Shop tasting event; the 34 STRAIGHT LACE Food Halls’ new Steak House; Rémy Martin’s “Mysteries of Angels” Cognac and chocolate coffret; Swedish food promotion From the ground up, lace is the fabric for the key autumn/winter looks 103 GREAT ESCAPES 36 10 MINUTES WITH ROBERTO CAVALLI Everyone loves a magical long weekend. Here are a dozen destinations The king of “more is more” talks leather, leopard and La Dolce Vita within easy reach, all blessed with very special hotels 36 MY LIFE IN SHOES 108 CITY GUIDE: VENICE Church’s brogues are the embodiment of AW11’s tomboy-chic aesthetic Visiting Venice off season is the perfect way to avoid the crowds and 39 RAYS OF BRIGHT explore the city’s hidden treasures From pale primrose to the deepest orange, yellow diamonds have 110 PRIZE DRAW inspired the latest collections from the world’s haute joaillerie houses Win a three-night spa break for two in a Spa Suite at Grand Resort 40 SEEING RED Bad Ragaz, Switzerland, as well as breakfast and dinner at Äbtestube Scarlet accents are the perfect foil to winter’s sombre palette restaurant, butler service, spa treatments and airport transfers 42 MENSWEAR NEWS 111 LIFESTYLE NEWS Barbour’s Steve McQueen collection; record label Deconstruction The new rooftop spa at the Four Seasons Park Lane; a heavenly takes up T-shirt design; the S.T. Dupont Élysée fountain pen Zermatt chalet; cool accommodation in Sweden’s original Icehotel; PowerBike, the latest workout innovation; the best of Morocco 44 THE BURBERRY EFFECT Christopher Bailey’s reinvention of the Burberry brand is as creative as 112 HARRODS ESTATES his trench coats. But there’s so much more to Burberry than clothes Specialising in prime residential properties in central London and the Home Counties 48 HOW TO WEAR CAPES From Chloé to Chanel to YSL, capes are everywhere this season 114 THE ULTIMATE CRYSTAL GAZING Champagne flutes and glasses from the new Orrefors by Karl Lagerfeld 52 ROCK THE CASBAH crystal collection are almost too heavenly to drink from Elaborate, exotic and opulent, this season’s prints are all the more extravagant worn boldly mismatched. It’s all in the clash 58 DEAD POETS SOCIETY The new way to dress down is to dress up in menswear classics that layer on the bookish charm BEAUTY Cover 67 ONLY NATURAL PHOTOGRAPHER ISHI The latest smart-but-simple skincare uses pioneering technology in the SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB quest for beauty – no surgery required FASHION STYLIST POPPY ROCK FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH 69 MISS HEAVEN SCENT PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Reviews four perfumes that celebrate unashamedly maximalist luxe CATHERINE O’GORMAN HAIR PAUL DONOVAN 72 BEAUTY NEWS MAKE-UP EMMA MILES French perfume house L’Artisan Parfumeur; Guerlain relaunches the Vol MODEL MILLY SIMMONDS at Union de Nuit collection; Philip Treacy redesigns Slendertone Face; Decléor’s wearing Burberry Prorsum coat £2,399 Excellence de L’Age collection; Miss Maquillage goes nail watching and hat £999 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 15
  • 16. FABRICS & CARPETS SOFT FURNISHINGS & FABRICS | THIRD FLOOR
  • 17. Top 20 Launches, special offers and events for October 1. Ted Baker dresses Party princesses with an inner scarlet woman will love Ted Baker’s empire-line chiffon dress with a bodice of oversized sequins. £399; exclusive to Harrods. Way In, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com 2. Burberry Prorsum AW11 coats Christopher Bailey continues his mission to own the world of coats, with a lambskin shearling version with a mink collar. It’s a snugglefest for all. £4,000. Men’s Designerwear, Ground Floor 3. La Perla Divina As seductive as its lingerie, La Perla’s new sultry fragrance Divina starts with strawberries and Champagne, then leads into rose and jasmine grounded by amber and vanilla. 30ml, £31; exclusive to Harrods. Perfumery, Ground Floor 4. Parker Ingenuity pen collection Parker’s new Ingenuity Collection features ground- breaking technology in the form of an innovative, flexible writing tip. “Ingenuity” pen £135. The Writing Room, Lower Ground Floor 5. Vacca womenswear True to form, Julie Vacca has created bold style statements in her new Vacca collection, integrating menswear fabrics with an oversized paisley print. Blazer £1,775 and riding trousers £750. Luxury Collections, First Floor 6. Jimmy Choo bags In tune with the trend for ladylike glamour, the “Rosalie” bag from Jimmy Choo is proper and elegant, especially in black snakeskin. £1,450. Egyptian Hall, Ground Floor 7. Leonor Greyl in-store appearance To discover how to really care for your hair, book an appointment with an expert from Parisian haircare brand Leonor Greyl. From 1st to 31st October. Call 020 7225 5954 to book. 8. Warehouse partywear Sequins are big news for AW11, as seen on this party- perfect deep-red number from Warehouse. £100; exclusive to Harrods. Way In, Fourth Floor 9. Bordeaux tasting event Our most popular tasting event is back on The Wine Shop calendar, serving more than 25 wines from the top châteaux. £40. From 7pm to 9pm on 17th October in The Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor. Call 020 7893 8777 to book 10. Tweezerman Mini Crystal Brow Kit Perfect for people on the go, Tweezerman’s Luxe Wine StockFood Edition Mini Crystal Brow Kit helps to keep brows neat and trim. £96; exclusive to Harrods. Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 17
  • 18. TOP 20 11. Marc Jacobs “Stam” bag A pale pink and rose “Stam” bag is the ultimate accessory. £2,720; exclusive to Harrods. Room of Luxury II, Ground Floor. From 25th September to 8th October, there will be a Marc Jacobs pop- up shop in Window 6. 12. Aquascutum “Birette” coat Cosy up this winter in Aquascutum’s 100% cashmere “Birette” coat with its fox-fur collar. £1,500; exclusive to Harrods. Designer Studio, First Floor; and harrods.com 13. Nicki Macfarlane childrenswear Tiny bridesmaids will feel like proper princesses in Nicki Macfarlane’s ivory silk organza “Eliza” dresses. From £389. Children’s Formalwear, Fourth Floor 14. Octium jewellery Fine jeweller Octium’s debut collection includes earrings and a ring featuring three rose gold octagonal motifs studded with diamonds. “Tri” ring £5,000. Fine Jewellery & Watch Room, Ground Floor 15. Peuterey “Hurricane Air” jacket In typical Peuterey style, the new “Hurricane Air” jacket is built to withstand extreme weather conditions. £675; exclusive to Harrods. Men’s Contemporary & Casuals, Lower Ground Floor 16. Marigay McKee for Origins Our Fashion and Beauty Director has designed a cool new tote for Origins, with each sale marking the planting of a tree in association with the American Forests Global ReLeaf Program. £85; exclusive to Harrods. Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor 17. Black & Brown children’s belts A new line of belts for miniature fashionistas is signature Black & Brown, featuring brightly coloured leather finished with Swarovski crystals. From £69.95; exclusive to Harrods. Children’s Designerwear, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com 18. Skechers “Pro Speed” running shoes Innovative technology gives Skechers’ new “Pro Speed” shoes the ability to transform impact into reusable energy, literally putting a spring in your step. £89.95. Sport & Leisure, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com 19. Whisky and chocolate event William Curley chocolate paired with more than 20 whiskies from all over the world – what better way is there to spend an evening? £35. From 7pm to 9pm on 13th October in The Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor. Call 020 7893 8777 to book. 20. Clinique bonus time A cosmetics bag and miniature make-up and skincare goodies are complimentary with the purchase of two or more products. From 27th October to 13th Whisky Fresh Food Images November; exclusive to Harrods. Cosmetics, Ground Floor 18 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  • 19. MICHAEL KORS BEAUTY INTRODUCING MICHAEL KORS GOLD A DECADENT BOUQUET OF MAGNOLIA, FREESIA AND TUBEROSE. GOLD. YOUR MOST FABULOUSLY CHIC ACCESSORY. IT’S ALWAYS LUXURIOUS. IT’S ALWAYS GLAMOROUS. EXCLUSIVELY AT HARRODS, PERFUMERY, GROUND FLOOR
  • 20. Benvenuti a casa.* Surround sofa as shown from £5220 *Welcome home. Surround Sofa. International Lifestyle Furniture, Third Floor. Telephone: 0207 225 6845
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  • 22. Sarah Lamb as Princess Aurora in The Sleeping Beauty BALLET The Sleeping Beauty While it is undoubtedly sublime entertainment, The Sleeping Beauty is also a work of profound artistic importance. Scored by Tchaikovksy, it was created for the Tsarist court by Petipa, the choreographer who is to ballet what Shakespeare is to theatre. This Royal Ballet production reconstructs the 1946 Sadler’s Wells revival and incorporates the additional choreography of three generations of great British artists – Frederick Ashton, Anthony Dowell and Christopher Wheeldon. The costumes and choreography are every bit as dreamlike and sumptuous as a fairy tale should be, and the Rose Adagio scene – in which Princess Aurora dances with four suitors at her birthday party before a curse sends her into a 100-year slumber – is magical. Akane Takada and Tamara Rojo are among the ballerinas taking on the title role. 22nd October to 21st December at the Royal Opera House FILM The Ides of March Besides exhibiting his effortless charm and devastating good looks in front of the camera, George Clooney has also proved himself an accomplished director. He won an Oscar nomination for Good Night, and Good Luck, an involving tale of McCarthyism in the 1950s shot in black and white, and in The Ides of March – which Clooney both directs and stars in – he again shows how to create engaging drama Ryan Gosling in The Ides of March from hard-hitting political issues. The subject is the tough choices that idealistic politicians have to make, and that eternal question: what dark deeds must you commit in order to achieve power and do good? Clooney plays the man with his eyes on the White House, Ryan Gosling is the aide experiencing a rapid “getting of wisdom” on the campaign trail, while Philip Seymour Hoffman, Paul Giamatti and Jeffrey Wright exhibit various degrees of Machiavellian virtuosity in the dark art of politics. If you still miss The West Wing, here’s what you’ve been waiting for. The Ides of March opens on 28th October in the UK FILM The Three Musketeers The swash and buckle of this classic novel by Alexander Dumas is given a Pirates of the Caribbean-style makeover to pull in a whole new audience in this $80m production. It is still the familiar story, set in 17th-century France, of the young upstart D’Artagnan falling in with the famous Three Musketeers to foil the wicked plans of Cardinal Richelieu and Milady de Winter, but now with a whole new level of action and technology. In this version, battles are fought in the air between gun-laden balloon ships, and Milady (Milla Jovovich) uses spectacular martial-arts skills against her enemies. The cast offers the relishable prospect of Inglourious Basterds’ Christoph Waltz as Richelieu, showing there’s no one better at playing cackling villainy, as well as the intriguing sight of Orlando Bloom playing against type as the devious Duke of Buckingham. Arctic Monkeys The Three Musketeers opens on 12th October in the UK MUSIC Arctic Monkeys The Arctic Monkeys exploded onto the scene a few years back with a historic double-header – reaching number one with their first single, “I Bet You Look Good on the Dancefloor”, followed by Whatever People Say I Am, That’s What I’m Not – the fastest-selling debut album ever in the British charts. The hard-punching combination of guitars, bass, drums and singer Alex Turner’s cruelly barbed lyrics was fresh and vibrant, yet the Sheffield quartet’s cocksure strut also echoed past pop The Sleeping Beauty Bill Cooper glories. This year, they released their fourth studio album, Suck It and See, and might be thought pop-rock elder statesman, were they not only in their mid-20s. This concert at The O2 will be proof that rock’n’roll is alive and well, so long as you know where to look. Support comes from The Vaccines, another critically acclaimed British quartet who know their way around lyrics, riffs and melody in a pared-down style. 29th and 30th October, The O2 22 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  • 23. ZEITGEIST Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones in Driving Miss Daisy THEATRE Driving Miss Daisy A period drama rich in humour and emotional power, Driving Miss Daisy won the Best Film Oscar in 1989. Now it returns to the stage in a production that’s already won stellar notices on Broadway. Set among the Deep South’s genteel society during the height of the civil-rights movement, this is the story of a septuagenarian white woman, Miss Daisy, and her black driver, Hoke, and how their relationship changes over that turbulent period. Oscar winner Vanessa Redgrave brings a regal bearing to Miss Daisy, while as Hoke, James Earl Jones reminds us why he is one of the most acclaimed US stage actors of recent decades. Until 17th December at Wyndham’s Theatre BOOK Queen Elizabeth II: Portraits by Cecil Beaton by Susanna Brown The same vision of style that enabled Cecil Beaton to capture 20th- century fashion also made him a fine royal portrait photographer. He first took shots of Queen Elizabeth II as a teenager in uniform during her wartime service, and went on to create definitive images of her coronation in 1953 and of her as a royal mother. Next year, to mark the 60th anniversary of the Queen’s ascension to the throne, the Victoria and Albert Museum will be exhibiting Beaton’s portraits of the Queen. This lavishly illustrated accompanying book, by curator Susanna Brown, explores how Beaton captured rare glimpses of the private individual behind the world’s most public figure. £19.99. Available from Books, Second Floor BOOK Heston Blumenthal at Home by Heston Blumenthal Those lucky enough to have dined at Heston Blumenthal’s Berkshire restaurant, The Fat Duck, know why it was voted the world’s best. It has given rise to some imaginative creations – caviar and white chocolate discs and a flaming sorbet, to name but two. To watch Blumenthal’s kitchen adventures on TV, you might have thought that a cautionary note would be, “Don’t try this at home”, but that’s exactly what he helps us do in his new book. It features techniques that adapt molecular gastronomy for the ordinary kitchen, and among the 150-plus recipes are such surprising taste combinations as salmon and liquorice, as well as a lesson on how to make perfect fish and chips. £30. Available from Books, Second Floor FILM Contagion Remember the sprawling 1970s disaster movies, such as The Towering Inferno, in which a host of stars struggle to survive? Well, Driving Miss Daisy Annabel Clark; frame iStock; Queen Elizabeth II portrait V&A Images Contagion gives the format a medical reboot. This time, the disaster is an airborne virus, and Kate Winslet, Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow, Matt Damon and Marion Cotillard are among those facing this lethal threat. The trailer has already caused a sensation, and the film – from Steven Soderbergh (who directed the star-studded Ocean’s Eleven and its sequels, as well as the compelling war-on-drugs drama Traffic) – promises to be as gripping as anything you’ve seen this year. Contagion opens on 21st October in the UK FILM The Adventures of Tintin: Secret of the Unicorn This much-anticipated action-adventure film comes from something of a dream team. Daniel Craig and Jamie Bell lead an all-star cast, the director is Steven Spielberg, the producer Peter “Lord of the Rings” Jackson, and special effects come from the team responsible for Avatar. In other words, this is a class apart from the 3D animated family films of recent years. Adapted from Hergé’s much-loved comic books, the film stars Bell as intrepid reporter Tintin, on the trail of treasure stolen by pirate Red Rackham (Craig). With Tintin, Spielberg brings to the screen a hero whose adventures match the thrills of Indiana Jones. The Adventures of Tintin opens on 26th October in the UK The Adventures of Tintin Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 23
  • 24. DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF 2 0 TH O C T O B E R – 1 8 TH D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 Moroccan chic Escape to a magical wonderland this autumn as Harrods treats you to an enchanting Moroccan extravaganza you will never forget. Indulge in a feast for the senses as you explore a luxurious mosaic-adorned riad, savour outstanding Moroccan hospitality, and select from an array of exquisite, artisanal products. INSPIRING MOROCCO, THIRD FLOOR
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  • 26. INTERVIEW What Kirsten did next From child vampire to tragic Beth in Little Women, romantic comedies to action films, it’s impossible to pigeonhole Kirsten Dunst, as her latest role in Lars von Trier’s apocalyptic art-house movie Melancholia confirms BY MATT MUELLER Ever since she landed the Best Actress prize at this year’s summery Louis Vuitton dress – she’s just come from the Upper Cannes Film Festival for her role as a depressed bride in West Side launch of her friend Sofia Coppola’s new Vuitton Melancholia, Kirsten Dunst has been feeling in a celebratory collection – she strides elegantly to our corner table, where mood. “It was a big deal; it is a big deal. I keep celebrating,” she orders chilled radish soup and an iced latté for lunch. she says with infectious delight. The celebratory splurge has For those who haven’t paid attention to Dunst’s career in come with friends, family and colleagues. Dunst is proud of recent years, Melancholia serves as one of those stand-up-and- her victory, and rightly so. “I’ve been working in this industry take-notice moments that any actress with serious aspirations for a long time. Even though I’m only 29, it’s been 20 years dreams of happening. It’s no surprise to hear Dunst say that of my life, and it feels good to be awarded something.” she’s always paid heed to who has won the best actress prize Melancholia comes from the mind of celebrated and “because it felt like a really important thing to win as an controversial Danish provocateur Lars von Trier. The film actress in people that I admire”. Cannes’ bigwigs asked Dunst features Dunst as Justine, a bride who sinks into a terrible to stay for their awards ceremony, telling her the film might depression on the day of her opulent wedding party but comes win something. Von Trier, having been declared “persona to find a strange comfort in the fact that the Earth is on an non grata” by the festival following a bizarre rant expressing apocalyptic collision course with the giant celestial body of sympathy with the Nazis, was unlikely to be the recipient the title. Impending doom suits Justine – and Dunst rises but Dunst wasn’t counting her chickens. She borrowed a to the occasion with a performance of wonderful depth dress from Chanel and turned up at the Palme d’Or shindig and subtlety against von Trier’s lush dreamscape visuals. “thinking not negatively but very rationally so that if it didn’t The notion of Dunst starring in a seriously adult European happen, I wouldn’t be upset. When I was speaking to Lars art-house film might surprise some people, and it’s not earlier that day, he said, ‘If I win for anything, please accept stretching matters to say that Melancholia is set to galvanise it on my behalf and say that I’m a big idiot.’” the actress’ image and career. As it was, her triumph shifted the spotlight away from For an entire generation, Dunst has been the embodiment von Trier’s strange antics – and she insists all is forgiven. of hip American teendom, but watching her stroll into a “He’s a friend but the things he said were inappropriate,” restaurant in New York’s West Village dispels any notion she says, adding, “He apologised. He felt very bad because that she’s still that winsome high-school cutie with the it affected all of us.” But it hasn’t tainted her fond memories Trunk Archive snaggle-toothed smile. She’s still sweet, and cute, the smile of making the film in Sweden, not least because the fact still endearingly imperfect (a trait that gives her beauty an that the Danish filmmaker had sought her out in the first unrefined quality and makes her interesting to watch). But place “was a huge deal. When he told me that I had the today she’s also a vision of sophisticated adult poise. Sporting a part, I got off the phone, ran upstairs and was just jumping f 26 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
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  • 28. INTERVIEW CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Dunst as depressed up and down, cheering. I was like a little kid.” and the film’s director Sam Raimi – now that their bride Justine in Lars von Trier’s Melancholia; For someone who’s been on movie screens since she participation in the Spider-Man franchise has come in Sofia Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides; with Simon Pegg in How to Lose Friends was a little kid (appearing in more than 60 movies to to an end. Which is why Melancholia, and her and Alienate People; as pre-adolescent vampire date), Dunst has appeared in her fair share of non- Best Actress victory, have come along at precisely Claudia in Interview with the Vampire; playing girl-next-door Mary-Jane Watson to Tobey serious roles. In recent years, she’s probably registered the right time for Dunst and her career. Maguire’s superhero in Spider-Man most prominently as an endearing romantic comedy She’s honest about how her experiences have presence (Wimbledon, Elizabethtown and How to informed the character of Justine. Dunst revealed in Lose Friends and Alienate People), or as love interest 2008 that she had sought treatment for depression, Mary-Jane Watson in the Spider-Man trilogy. But what and agrees that this difficult time had helped her has always marked out Dunst from her Hollywood understand Justine’s disconsolate depths. “Every film peers is an admirable willingness to seek out riskier I do is a cathartic experience, and I should be able to characters – an attribute no doubt instilled in the take things from my life,” she says. “I think that’s the actress by a mother who was happy to let her daughter only way people feel truly moved by a performance. take on the role of the pre-adolescent vampire Claudia And depression isn’t an easy thing to portray on film. in Interview with the Vampire, despite the character’s People get embarrassed talking about it, so I hope overt sexual overtones. It’s a role that many other stage that people who have been through a similar thing, mothers steered their daughters well clear of, and one or are going through it, will get something out of it.” that Dunst remembers with abiding fondness. She adds with a smile, “It’s funny when people ask “I was like the princess on that film,” she recalls. me if Melancholia is a sci-fi movie, because it’s not.” “Tom [Cruise] was so sweet and Brad [Pitt] is such With her mother of Swedish-Alsatian heritage a nice guy. I was the only girl in a movie with these and her father German-born, Dunst feels an affinity two hunks. I was taken care of very nicely. And I was for Europe and makes regular sojourns to Germany to protected too. My character was sexualised, but my visit relatives. One of her biggest joys with Melancholia acting teacher would describe things in a way that is the fact that her grandfather, who lives in Hamburg, a little girl could relate to, like ‘Imagine that you’re is “getting all this attention in Germany now”. hiding your favourite toy from your brother’ and “I feel like I have a European sensibility,” muses I’m ambitious in that would result in me giving a look that could be Dunst, “and I’m ambitious in the way that I want Melancholia The Kobal Collection; all other images Rex Features seen to be coquettish.” to do the best work I can do. I want to push myself. the way that From those vampiric origins, Dunst went family- friendly for a few years in films like Jumanji and I want to work with great people.” But she isn’t about to turn her back on the mainstream roles that I want to do the Little Women before striking out into an intriguing have brought her so much recognition and success. late-adolescent phase, playing a suicidal teen in The She’s worked with von Trier, but she’s not about to best work I can Virgin Suicides for neophyte director Sofia Coppola dash into the film-making arms of any Tomas, Dirk –“if I wasn’t in the movie, it would be one of my or Milos who comes calling. “I like doing big films, do. I want to push favourites”, she explains. As Dunst reveals, “I’ve and I miss doing comedies,” she vouches. “I’ve been often chosen roles not because it’s the best script but crying too much on screen recently. I’m ready to myself. I want to because I can do something different with the role.” have fun now, for a little while at least.” HMN work with great She was also in the frame for some of Hollywood’s most coveted young actress parts, landing the key Melancholia opens on 30th September in the UK people role of Mary-Jane Watson in Spider-Man and its two sequels. Calling it “a landmark role in my career”, Matt Mueller contributes to Total Film, Screen Dunst admits that she misses “our crew” – that International, Wonderland, Entertainment Weekly is her co-stars Tobey Maguire and James Franco, and The Guardian 28 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  • 29. THE GENTLEMAN’S LOUNGE, LOWER GROUND FLOOR © ARAMIS INC.
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  • 31. FASHION Fleurs du mal The scarf – how very demure. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli – how very dark. The new Valentino accessory collection is both demure and dark, with forget- me-not florals in shades of purple, blue and black PHOTOGRAPHER ANDY BARTER FASHION STYLIST POPPY ROCK Valentino scarf £210, exclusive to Harrods. Available from Scarves, Gloves & Hats, Ground Floor; and harrods.com Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 31
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  • 36. Q&A 10Roberto SLUG minutes with Cavalli F If there’s one thing you can count on a Roberto Cavalli dress ashion’s X and Y chromosomes have gone haywire. for, it’s serious va-va-voom factor. Since launching his label From pop’s favourite provocateur Lady Gaga 40 years ago (Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren were early unveiling her snarling, smoking male alter ego fans), Cavalli has set the bar for yacht-party-appropriate gowns; (say hello to Jo Calderone) to men in skirts at today he counts Jennifer Lopez, Gisele and Cheryl Cole among the SS12 collections (take a bow Givenchy, Rick his followers. Ruffles, patchwork, lace, leather and, of course, Owens, Yohji Yamamoto) to male model Andrej lots and lots of leopard print are Cavalli design signatures. His Pejic walking the Jean Paul Gaultier couture flamboyant, exotic aesthetic continues through from the main catwalk in a wedding dress, the current buzzword line to his newest venture, the Roberto Cavalli Gym collection. In is androgyny. Undoubtedly, the most pervading example of fashion’s Cavalli’s world, more is more. Shy, retiring types need not apply. current appetite for gender play is the predominantly masculine mood of winter’s womenswear collections. There are boxy blazers, Leopard print or snakeskin? sharp suiting and tuxedos across the collections – even at that I love leopard print; it’s a part of the Cavalli DNA. vanguard of unabashed femininity, Dolce & Gabbana. It’s said, Minimalism or maximalism? with a hint of resignation, that “boys will be boys”; well, this season, Maximalism, no question. girls will be boys too if they feel like it. Jennifer Lopez or Victoria Beckham? Masculine dressing is empowering in the same way that overtly They’re both good friends of mine. I was in Cannes with feminine dressing is; it’s a chance to be an amplified version of Jennifer last year. And Victoria, we go way back. She’s so ourselves. There’s a sense of innate confidence and effortless sexiness sweet and funny; it’s always a pleasure to see her. to a woman in men’s clothing that says simultaneously, “I don’t Florence or Milan? need to try too hard” and “don’t mess with me” (think of Helmut Florence is my city. I love it for the art, for the culture, Newton’s iconic 1975 shot of Yves Saint Laurent’s “Le Smoking” for the incredible landscape. But Milan is where I do suit). Tomboy chic is liberating and intelligent (no toe-crushing my business, it’s where I have my fashion shows and where stilettos or pleasing-the-wrong-kind-of-man cleavage here). my showroom is. The definitive tomboy shoe is a brogue (with all its allusions to The Sixties or the Seventies? formal suiting) and the go-to brand for brogues is Church’s, the Ah, the Seventies. I began in the Seventies; I still remember Northamptonshire-based shoemaker with a worldwide reputation my first pair of printed jeans. for its impeccably handmade shoes. In business since 1873 and Leather or lace? with a history dating back to 1675, Church’s is the antithesis of fast Italians and leather go together. And Florence’s heritage is all tied up fashion. Sartorially astute women who know the appeal not only in the creation of leather, which was first produced here way back in of smart classics but also of tomboy dressing have already cottoned the 13th century. There are still many workshops in Florence that on to the timeless appeal of the Chelsea boots, loafers and brogues treat leather in the traditional way. from the quintessentially English brand. Church’s shoes are coolly Sailing or horse racing? detached from trends (any synchronicity with the zeitgeist is simply Sailing. I absolutely love to sail, the feeling of freedom. I’m at incidental), but for the right amount of hard edge this season, the my happiest when I’m sailing. studded “Burwood” brogues, with their rock-chick detailing, are a Art Nouveau prints or Ming china pattern? smart choice. Surprisingly versatile, the mannishness of the shoe can Florence Getty Images; still from La Dolce Vita Rianna-Pathé/Kobal Collection/Pier Luigi Art Nouveau prints. either be counterbalanced with flirty silhouettes and pretty prints Print or patchwork? or embraced with cropped cigarette pants, tailored shirts and sharp Both are a part of Cavalli heritage, so it’s difficult to choose. jackets. Church’s brogues are a world away from towering heels and My patchwork jeans were a huge success. But prints are yet equally, if unexpectedly, sexy; this may well be a man’s world, where I started and where my heart is. but it would be nothing without some serious tomboy attitude. Ferrari or Ducati? – By Laura Jordan Both. It depends on my mood. Restaurants or nightclubs? Nightclubs. I don’t really enjoy going to restaurants. I prefer to stay at home and eat with friends and family. Church’s “Burwood” Photography or painting? brogues £320. I love both. My grandfather was a great painter, but I’m a better Available from photographer than a painter. I take my camera everywhere. The Shoe Salon, Cindy Crawford or Naomi Campbell? First Floor Cindy: a goddess and a great friend. FROM TOP La Dolce Vita or Roman Holiday? Jennifer Lopez La Dolce Vita. wearing Cavalli; Credits TK Images the Ponte Vecchio Sexy or romantic? in Florence; La Romantic, for sure. I’m a very romantic, emotional person Dolce Vita; and I like to take a romantic, traditional approach to design. Roberto Cavalli looks for AW11 Available from International Designer Room, First Floor 36 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  • 38. PROMOTION Charming bells of May Elegant and poetic, Shaun Leane’s new Maybell collection captures the essence of woodland flowers He’s renowned for pushing the boundaries in the rarefied world of fine jewellery, yet Shaun Leane’s creativity never plays second fiddle to luxuriousness. His jewellery is as beautiful as it is provocative, as exquisite as it is innovative. His distinctive aesthetic – romantic with a dark edge – has won him a number of influential fans and collaborators over the past two decades. These include Alexander McQueen, for whom Leane created stunning, often macabre, always theatrical jewellery, and that icon of avant-garde couture, muse and heiress Daphne Guinness. This coupling of artistic vision and intricate craftsmanship has seen Leane named UK Jewellery Designer of the Year on four occasions. His latest coup is the prestigious Couture Design Award, which he picked up for a bespoke necklace, inspired by the nocturnal-blossoming Queen of the Night flower, designed to commemorate Boucheron’s 150th anniversary. The beauty of the natural world is also harnessed in Leane’s latest fine jewellery collection. Maybell is inspired by the elegantly curved blooms of the Lily of the Valley (or May Bell) and features graceful 18kt white gold racemes (branches) that bow under the weight of intricate diamond-pavéd flowers. The bell-shaped blossoms feature on earrings, a ring, a cuff and the FROM TOP Shaun Leane Maybell centrepiece of the collection, a dramatic necklace that exemplifies collection 18kt white gold, Leane’s outstanding artistry. diamond and cultured pearl necklace £9,150; 18kt white gold and white diamond ring £3,550, Available from Designer Jewellery, Ground Floor earrings £12,550 and studs £2,245
  • 39.
  • 40. STYLE SLUG Seeing red Top to toe is not for the faint-hearted, but scarlet accents are the perfect foil to winter’s sombre palette Stylist Becky Branch Credits TK Images Available from Men’s Accessories, Men’s Contemporary & Casuals, Men’s Lab and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s Designerwear and Designer Jewellery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com 40 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  • 41. Exclusively at Harrods. Sport & Leisure, Fifth Floor
  • 42. NEWS Barbour channels Steve McQueen Back in 1964, so the story goes, when the US motorbike racing team were en route to East Germany to compete Pens with in the International Six Days Trials, they stopped off in London. So concerned were they about the weather that panache they decided they needed special European rain- and mud-resistant jackets. The Barbour International was their jacket of choice and thus was inducted into fashion’s hall of fame. To celebrate its 75th anniversary, Barbour The reputation of S.T. Dupont’s is relaunching the jacket in distressed olive or black, fountain pens leapt about a billion each resplendent with a stars-and-stripes lining. notches when they were adopted “Penton” jacket £429. Available from Menswear, by the President of France in Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com the 1950s. Although the brand had an international reputation for fine writing instruments that ON TREND TO A “T” stems back to the late 1800s, the appointment to supply the Deconstruction needs no introduction French government gave the brand a new gravitas. Named to club-culture vultures. Dance-music after the presidential residence, lovers who like to wear their hearts on their the new Élysée pen lives up to its powerful connections. chests will party all night long for the brand’s Available in black lacquer or new T-shirt line featuring slogans and graphics palladium, the fountain pen, made famous by the record label. And, rollerball and ballpoint have a smooth writing action, according to Mark Farrow, Creative Director thanks to the patented of Deconstruction, the T-shirt is just the start. S.T. Dupont gel ink. On the horizon is a full collection of garments From top “Elysée” fountain pens £380, £390 and £500. that sum up the aesthetic of the legendary Available from dance-music imprint. T-shirts £39.95 each. The Writing Room, Available from Men’s Lab, Lower Ground Floor Lower Ground Floor RETRO SKI JACKETS It’s all in the jeans This season your jeans should mainly be slim, dark and a little worn-in, with a couple of strategically placed snags for good measure. Ahead of the denim curve as usual, Evisu is launching a capsule collection of just such jeans – narrow leg in “worked” wash – to celebrate its 20th anniversary. The three new styles each feature a limited-edition special sign-off, including pocket prints, back- pocket embroidery and a surfeit of platinum- coloured rivets across the waistband. They also display the famous Evisu seagull logo, slimmed down and sleeker – handily matching the mood of the jeans. Jeans £129. Available from Men’s Lab, Lower Ground Floor 42 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  • 43. Available at Harrods on Men’s Contemporary & Casuals, Lower Ground Floor The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor Luxury Collections, First Floor Sport & Leisure, Fifth Floor
  • 44. FASHION SLUG The Burberry effect Christopher Bailey’s reinvention of the Burberry brand is as smartly creative as his trench coats. But there’s so much more to Burberry than clothes BY DEBORAH BEE/ PHOTOGRAPHER ISHI/SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB C all me dull, but on a June Angeles. In March 2011, Burberry Prorsum’s AW11 collection morning last year, on my became the most-viewed show ever. The show was live-streamed walk to work, I decided to to screens in Piccadilly Circus and through multiple-media formats, count trench coats. I don’t and has been viewed by more than 80 million people. The opening usually count trench coats. of its largest store in China, the Burberry Beijing event – which In my impromptu survey, included a 3D virtual and real-time fashion show – has been viewed I allowed: any shade of beige, by 1.3 billion people. This is fashion as we now know it. brown, pastel or cream, plus Burberry’s vast global HQ on Horseferry Road in Westminster white, cropped or long, pedestrians only, and just women. On a is as imposing a structure as you would expect from a 1930s 12-minute, not-so-busy stretch of Covent Garden, I counted 57. ex-government building. Behind the automatic plate-glass doors, This, by anyone’s standards, is a fashion trend gone viral. This is however, the atmosphere is one of relaxed sophistication – the the Burberry effect. A single flap of Christopher Bailey’s creative receptionists are elegant, the seating precisely positioned, and the wings and the world’s high streets are hit by a fashion hurricane. air ideally conditioned. On vast plasma screens, the world’s most- Fashion as we know it began in 1966 when Yves Saint Laurent watched fashion show is playing out, notching up a few more launched the first prêt-à-porter collection; Christopher Bailey was viewers. On the top floor, taking up the corner office, is not yet born. Up to that point, there was haute couture and there the man at the helm, Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey. were dressmakers. The fashion-conscious who couldn’t afford the “I don’t mind admitting that I’m geeky,” says Bailey, looking best Parisian fashion houses relied on their own dressmaking skills, anything but. He’s wearing the sophisticated uniform of the clever or those of the local seamstress, to run up something similar. and successful – a black, slim-fitting turtleneck and dark jeans. To those who knew about such things – that was a bit shoddy. He looks at least 10 years younger than his 40 years. “I enjoy During the 1960s, a new mood was evolving in fashion. technology,” he continues. “I like playing with things. I understand The traditional drip of trends from the top down was being technical processes. I couldn’t actually write a program. I have undermined by street fashions that were clawing their way up. a team – an amazing team. I’ve got lots of different teams.” The leather jackets, skinny turtlenecks and bubble skirts made On the way up to Bailey’s office, I’ve been given a tour of popular by a new generation of art students were being reinterpreted the building by the PR team. I’ve seen the lower ground floor in cashmere and crocodile for couture customers. The importance staff café, where the food is free, (“because once you’ve had a of this volte-face was not that rich people suddenly had street cred, coffee, lunch and tea, it really starts to add up”). I’ve visited the but that it was harder to tell the “haves” and the “have-nots” apart. showrooms for each of Burberry’s 50-plus annual collections Almost overnight, fashion had become more inclusive. for Burberry Prorsum, Burberry London, Burberry Sport and When Saint Laurent created his cheaper, off-the-peg Rive Gauche Burberry Brit and others, as well as Burberry Body, the brand’s line, fashion’s democratisation was beginning, sparking a number new fragrance. On the design floors, the design teams can be of other ready-to-wear collections in Paris, then later in London, subdivided into a button team, a bag team, a coat team etc, each Milan and New York. The ready-to-wear shows took their cues from creatively messy with buttons, bags or coats. In the basement couture with twice-yearly schedules – autumn/winter in March and is the online team, spilling out of a series of studios set up to spring/summer in September. And over the next 45 years, nothing photograph garments, retouch those photos and get them online much changed. The traditional showroom presentation has been within 20 minutes. There’s a social media team. There’s a team for replaced by catwalk shows in vast white tents tucked behind the music. There’s a boardroom designed to look like other Burberry classical architecture of each fashion capital. boardrooms around the world so that when video conferencing, The scale of the shows has increased – at each event there are the wall-sized screen creates the illusion of one big meeting room. likely to be around 60 looks shown on approximately 20 models. There’s an exhibition atrium and a vast training room. All in all, The audience – made up of buyers and the press – is usually it feels like an inordinate amount of effort to, um, sell clothes. around 1,400 people, at most. Until Christopher Bailey. “Burberry is about so much more than just clothes,” says Bailey. In 2009, Burberry live-streamed its SS10 show directly from “Burberry is about experiences. It’s about welcoming people the show space in London to a worldwide audience, where in, whether it’s via social media or via music, through Burberry viewers could comment on the collection in real time. The Acoustic. Maybe they found us online or went into a store. There f AW10 womenswear show was filmed in 3D and shown live at simultaneous events in New York, Paris, Dubai, Tokyo and Los Burberry Prorsum coat £2,399 and belt from a selection 44 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  • 45. Nobody is interested in just old stuff, but people love heritage. They want the history reconstructed according to how they live now Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 45
  • 46. are so many routes to Burberry. These days a brand has to be about much more than just selling. Otherwise your brand just becomes a product. I have always thought that you have to make sure that, at the heart of your brand, there’s more than just product.” Burberry experiences are currently as follows: Burberry Facebook has more than seven million fans; Burberry YouTube videos have been watched by five million people globally; Burberry Art of the Trench (a social media project that displays photos of fans in their trench coats) has had 11 million page views; Burberry Acoustic (a showcase for young British bands) has over eight million fans; Burberry.com is translated into five languages and is accessible in 45 countries; there are over 300,000 followers on Twitter. Is it hard, I wonder, for Bailey to keep up with all the traffic that he is creating? “I embrace that side of social media,” he says. “I love that it’s a two-way conversation. I don’t read it all – I dip in and out. You couldn’t look at every single thing. I care about it, but I don’t worry about ‘comments’, because as soon as you start obsessing about them, you lose your focus and your point of view, and you’re just worrying too much about what other people think. I’m not seriously expecting everyone to like everything we do. It’s just not possible.” True to his Yorkshire roots, Bailey is straight-talking and for a fashion bod, refreshingly level-headed. Born in Halifax, the son of a joiner and a window-dresser, he went directly from London’s Royal College of Art in 1993 to New York to work for Donna Karan. Three years later, he became senior designer for Tom Ford at Gucci. In 2001, at the age of just 29, Bailey took up the reins of Creative Director at Burberry. Between 2002 and 2011, the company has grown from being worth £1.1bn to nearly £6bn. The tired little English label has had a miraculous turnaround, thanks largely to Bailey’s vision, together with that of Angela Ahrendts, Burberry’s current CEO. “I had no reservations about taking the job at Burberry,” Bailey says. “I saw the potential almost immediately. The brand was like a huge, incredible diamond that had been trodden into the ground over the years – a bit dusty and dirty. All we had to do was shine each of the facets to make it beautiful again. I had a strong sense that the brand had gravitas. Angela and I had a shared vision, but we didn’t create the gravitas. Thomas Burberry was an incredibly innovative man. He understood design and function, and communicating to people. Burberry had gravitas already; it just needed translating.” Burberry’s history stretches back 155 years, to when a 21-year-old Thomas Burberry opened his first store in Basingstoke, specialising in outerwear. During the First World War, Burberry’s gabardine rain-resistant coats proved a lighter, more practical option to the heavy serge greatcoats that were standard issue, and thus the trench coat was born. During the 20th century, the Burberry trench coat led the brand from its zenith during the 1940s and 1950s, when it was iconic movie-star garb, to its nadir in the 1990s, when the brand became almost mired in its own history. In 1997, Burberry hired Rose Marie Bravo as CEO, and the company’s fortunes changed. In 2001, Bailey came on board and, just a year later, the company went public on the London Stock Exchange. Between 2002 and 2006, the company’s profits quadrupled. Bravo’s successor, Ahrendts, has worked with Bailey on Burberry’s focus, ensuring that the heritage is relevant for a new generation. “It’s been my philosophy since I started here that Burberry needed to exist in a contemporary world,” explains Bailey. “We needed to use the history and the culture, our 155 years’ worth of stories, as the foundation, but we needed to communicate 46 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  • 47. it in a modern way. Nobody is interested in just old stuff, but people love heritage. They want the history reconstructed according to how they live now.” Bailey’s reconstruction of the Burberry brand starts with product. Every season, a new incarnation of the Burberry trench appears in the Prorsum show – too many incarnations now to even imagine; in pastel-pink ruched silk; with leather biker sleeves; with a fur cape in orange tweed. But the story only begins here. Bailey says that one third of his job is coming up with ideas, one third is executing the ideas, and the final third is making sure the context is right. And the context is where the technology comes in. “I think of Burberry as an old/young company. It’s 155 years old, but the team is really young, so technology is embedded in the culture. Everybody communicates on a mobile device and is obsessed with the internet. I’m obsessed with the internet and I’m not even young. No one can stop it, and it’s faster than all of us. That is the future.” The fact that Bailey has mastered the mix of classic and contemporary in each garment is skilled enough in fashion terms. The fact that each collection dictates at least some of the world’s key trends every season is testament in part to his global reach and belief in fashion democracy. “I hate the ‘exclusive’ mentality,” he states. “I look at it and think, What is that about? I’m much more comfortable with ‘inclusive’. I’m very open about the fact that not everybody can afford a Burberry trench coat. But that doesn’t mean they’re not good enough to be part of the Burberry club. I can’t afford a private jet, but that doesn’t mean I don’t want to look at them. I don’t care if someone visits our website and just stays on Burberry Acoustic because right now, in their lives, they can’t afford to buy a fragrance, bag or coat. I just don’t think it’s right to exclude people – it’s so old-fashioned. Young people don’t think like that. It’s a different It’s a different generation that thinks you have to exclude people in order to create luxury. The last time I looked, fashion and clothes were there to generation that make people feel good about themselves, not to make people feel insecure or not good enough. I find it very ugly, vulgar, sad.” thinks you have to Today the inclusiveness of the Burberry brand extends to stores in 45 countries, from Dubai to Spain. And since spring/summer exclude people is simultaneously autumn/winter somewhere else in the world, the collections are trans-seasonal as well as trans-cultural – broad in order to enough to cover everything and everyone. “The seasonal collections are all weird now in this industry, something I find frustrating. create luxury It’s all slightly nonsense. So we think global – but we’ve always thought global. Thomas Burberry had a store in Buenos Aires 100 year ago. Ten years ago we had over 20 stores in China – that was before anyone else even started thinking about China.” But despite the unprecedented success that Burberry has enjoyed, and Bailey’s absolute belief in the power of the internet, some stalwarts of the fashion industry refuse to embrace it. “The internet doesn’t suit everyone,” Bailey concedes. “Some brands might not have the right culture. And it’s not something you can just play at. Either do it properly or don’t bother. Some people are afraid of the internet. If you haven’t grown up with it, it’s daunting. They open up their system preferences and suddenly there’s this gobbledygook of numbers and letters. You need to forget all that. When you buy a building, you don’t get intimidated by the pipes and wiring; they just make your building work for you. The Net is the same. It’s just a vehicle for your message. Another thing to keep in mind is that f THIS PAGE Burberry Prorsum coat £2,500 and trousers £349; OPPOSITE PAGE Burberry Prorsum coat £9,999 and trousers from a selection Credits TK Images Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 47