3. A Pinhole camera is just for You!
Pinhole camera, also known as camera obscura, or "dark
chamber", is a simple optical imaging device in the shape of a
closed box or chamber. In one of its sides is a small hole
which, via the rectilinear propagation of light, creates an
image of the outside space on the opposite side of the box.
6. The Box
1. Remove the inner part of the matchbox, the match tray. Mark out a 24mm square
exactly in the centre of the match tray. Alternatively, if you want standard format
rectangular photos (some photo labs will find these easier to print) mark out a 36mm x
24mm rectangle. Carefully cut out the frame shape with a sharp knife, keeping the edges
as neat as possible, or if you prefer, make it messy, it's up to you! Any rough edges and
card fibres will appear around the edges of each photo.
7. 2. To reduce internal reflections in
the camera, colour in the inside of
the tray with a black felt tipped
pen.
3. Try to colour the inside front of the
matchbox sleeve black too
8. 4.Exactly in the centre of the
front of the matchbox sleeve,
mark out a 6mm square.
Carefully cut this square out
keeping the edges as neat as
possible to avoid fluffy fibres
obscuring the image
9. Making The Pinhole
1.Cut out a piece of aluminium from the drinks can, about 15mm square. Place the
aluminium onto some thick cardboard. Using the fine sewing needle or sharp pin,
gently press into the centre of the aluminium. Twist the pin between your fingers
while doing this so that it slowly "drills" a hole through the metal. Don't push down
hard with the pin so that it goes straight through, the idea is to produce a very small
hole with clean edges.
10. 2.The ideal diameter of the pinhole
is about 0.2mm, smaller is OK,
larger and the images produced
will be less sharp.
3.Colour the back of the pinhole
black, again this should help
reduce internal light reflections
in the camera
11. Place the aluminium onto the box so
that the pinhole is exactly in the centre
of the square hole in the top of the
box
Tape the aluminium onto the
box, securing all four sides
12. Adding a Shutter
1. It's possible just to use a piece of tape across the pinhole to act as a
shutter, but a sliding shutter can be easier to use. Cut two pieces of thin
card, a square about 32mm, and a rectangle about 25mm x 40mm. In the
square piece, cut out a 6mm square in the centre.
2. Place some black tape on one side of the rectangular piece to help
prevent light leaks.
3. Place the square piece over the pinhole and tape down three sides,
leaving a gap in the top into which the rectangular shutter card can slide
4. Check that the shutter can be pushed down to fully cover the pinhole
1.
2.
3. 4.
13. Loading the camera
First, trim the leader off the film, cutting the edge as squarely as possible. If the
film stub from the empy canister is not cut squarely across, trim it square too.
Pull out a little more film and thread the film through the matchbox. Make sure the
emulsion side (non-shiny side) is facing the pinhole
14. Using some clear sticky tape,
splice the ends of the film
together as neatly as possible.
Try to make sure the edges are
lined up together so the film
can pass easily into the empty
canister. Tape both sides and
make sure the joint is secure.
Slide the match tray back into the box
15. Turn the spindle of the empty film
canister so that the slack film is
wound into it. Make sure the edges
of each film canister are pushed up
tight to the matchbox and no film can
be seen.
The film is now loaded, but
needs to be made light tight
16. Light proofing
If you want your pictures to be free from light leaks, it's very important that no light at
all can get into the camera other than through the pinhole! Black electrical PVC tape is
very effective at keeping out light.
The most important places to seal are between the film canisters and the matchbox.
Place strips of tape down the front on both sides. Use two layers and make sure it is
stuck down firmly all around.
Pay attention to the ends of each reel. Add more tape here, trim around the spindles
so that the tape adhesive doesn't stick and prevent the film being wound on. Again,
use a couple of layers and check all around both joints to make sure they are totally
sealed.
The cardboard of the matchbox will
also leak a small amount of light,
especially in bright conditions. This will
give your photos a mottled red effect.
If you don't want this, tape all over the
back and sides of the box so that no
cardboard is showing
17. Winder
To make it easier to wind the film on, stick
something into the top of the empty spool.
Here I used the ring pull from the can
As you wind the film on, the film in the take up
spool will tend to keep springing back. To keep
some tension on the take up spool, place a
little tissue paper on the base of the take up
spool and tape over it. Don't make this too
tight or it will be difficult to wind the film on.
18. That's it! The completed camera is now ready to used.
Make sure the shutter is closed. To wind the film on, turn the winder
on the empty take up spool anticlockwise!
