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Fashion as photograph
- 1. Fashion as Photograph (the body in fashion photography) helen.clarke@leeds-art.ac.uk
- 5. Louis Daguerre, Boulevard de Temple, 1838/9 •
- 6. William Henry Fox Talbot • Invented a fixing process • Calotype – process using silver nitrate (as in black and white negative used in chemical processing today). • UK
- 7. Lady Alice Mary Kerr's Portrait of Wilfrid Scawen Blunt, c.1870
- 8. Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione, photographed by Adolphe Braun, 1856
- 10. Age of the fashion magazine • Improvements in the halftone printing (dot) process means photographs can be reproduced in magazines • First ten years of the 1900’s • Before this drawn illustrations were used.
- 11. Petersons magazine plate , 1888
- 12. Edward Steichen photographs Paul Poirets designs for Art et Décoration, 1911
- 13. Paul Poiret (1879-1944) • House of Worth (Charles Worth, father of haute couture) • Freedom from corsetry • Signature shapes- hobble skirt, harem pants • Clothing cut along straight lines • Influenced by antique dress- draping
- 14. La Mode Pratique, 1938
- 15. Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar • Leaders in fashion photography in the 1920’s and 30’s • Hoyningen-Huene for HB (photographs for Madame Vionnet) • Horst P. Horst for Vogue • Cecil Beaton for British Vogue
- 16. Hoyningen-Heune, 1931 Madame Vionnet
- 17. Cecil Beaton (1904- 1980) • British Vogue and Vanity Fair • Photographed and was a member of the “Bright Young Things” of the 1920’s/30’s • Photographed British Royals • Prolific diarist • designed sets, costumes, and lighting for Broadway
- 18. Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mid 1930’s
- 19. Stephen Tennant by Cecil Beaton
- 20. Queen Elizabeth II in 1968
- 21. Lee Miller (1907-1977) Photographed by Steichen American photographer and fashion model at age 19
- 22. photographer •Goes to Paris in 1929 with photographer Man Ray •Involved in the surrealist movement in photography This image: •Photograph of Eileen Agar, Brighton, England 1937
- 23. War correspondent In 1944 she became a correspondent accredited to the US Army, and teamed up with Time Life photographer David E. Scherman. She followed the US troops overseas on 'D' Day + 20. She was probably the only woman combat photo- journalist to cover the war in Europe and among her many exploits she witnessed the siege of St Malo, the Liberation of Paris, the fighting in Luxembourg and Alsace, the Russian/American link up at Torgau, the liberation of Buchenwald and Dachau. She billeted in both Hitler and Eva Braun's houses in Munich, and photographed Hitler's house Wachenfeld at Berchtesgaden in flames on the eve of Germany's surrender. Penetrating deep into Eastern Europe, she covered harrowing scenes of children dying in Vienna, peasant life in post war Hungary and finally the execution of Prime Minister Lazlo Bardossy.
- 24. Louise Dahl Wolfe • From 1936 to 1958 Dahl-Wolfe was a staff fashion photographer at Harper’s Bazaar. • From 1958 until her retirement in 1960, Dahl- Wolfe worked as a freelance photographer for Vogue, Sports Illustrated, and other periodicals. • “Environmental” fashion photography
- 26. Panorama of Paris, Suzy Parker in Jacques Fath Gown, 1953
- 27. 1940’s 50’s
- 28. David Bailey (1938-) Mick Jagger,
- 29. Twiggy, Terence Donovan, 1966
- 30. Richard Avedon (1923 -2004) • Harpers Bazaar till 1966 • Vogue 1966 onwards • The book ‘In the American West’
- 32. Bill Curry, Drifter, Interstate 40, Yukon, Oklahoma, from In the American West, 1985
- 33. Helmut Newton (1920-2004) Vogue and Harpers Bazaar
- 34. Jamel Shabazz, Back in the days, published 2002
- 35. I-D magazine vs The Face 1995 1997
- 36. Juergen Teller (1964- ) •German photographer •Photos in The Face, Vogue •Has workred with Vivien Westwood and Mar Jacobs •Works with musicians •Annie Morton , 1996
- 37. Corrine Day (1965-2010) •British fashion photographer and model •Worked for the Face and Vogue •Vogue cover with Kate Moss credited with the beginnings of the trend for the ‘waif’ look.
- 38. Corrine Day •Tara A documentary project •Exhibited at Gimpel Fils gallery in 2000
- 39. Adobe Photoshop • Digital image manipulation • graphics editing program • First launched 2003
- 40. Terry Richardson •Book Terryworld published 2004 •US photographer •Has worked for Vogue, Vanity Fair, ID magazine. Harpers Bazaar •Sisley, Diesel, Mango •H&M,
- 41. Nick Knight •UK photographer •Worked with Yohji Yammamoto in the 90’s and with Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior •Shots for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Another Magazine •This image: with designer Gareth Pugh for Mercedes Benz campaign of 2009
- 42. Fashion blogging • Democratises fashion photography • Anyone can write about/ photograph fashion • Eg: Tavi Gevinsons “Style Rookie”
- 45. wiwt.com
- 46. Exacitudes- Ari Versluis (photographer) and Ellie Uyttenbrock (stylist) Neighbours Rotterdam 2008 Casettes gang, London 2008
- 47. Further Reading • Barnard, M (2002) Fashion as Communication. Routledge, London • Rankin, (2009) Seven Photographs that changed Fashion, BBC 4 • Shinkle, E (2008) Fashion as Photograph, I B Tauris and Co Ltd, London
Hinweis der Redaktion
- Illustration of the objects
- Disappearance of the bodyFashion still life
- produced on a polished pewter plate covered with a petroleum derivative called bitumen of Judea, which he then dissolved in white petroleum.[8] Bitumen hardens with exposure to light. The unhardened material may then be washed away and the metal plate polished, rendering a positive image with light regions of hardened bitumen and dark regions of bare pewter.[8]Niépce then began experimenting with silver compounds based on a Johann Heinrich Schultz discovery in 1727 that silver nitrate (AgNO3) darkens when exposed to light.[9]
- Refined the silver nitrate process. In 1833 Niépce died of a stroke, leaving his notes to Daguerre. On January 7, 1839 Daguerre announced that he had invented a process using silver on a copper plate called the daguerreotype, first-ever photograph of a person. It is an image of a busy street, but because exposure time was over ten minutes, the city traffic was moving too much to appear. The exception is a man in the bottom left corner, who stood still getting his boots polished long enough to show up in the picture.In 1832, French-Brazilian painter and inventor Hercules Florence had already created a very similar process, naming it Photographie.
- English Poet and Writer
- a Tuscan noblewoman at the court of Napoleon IIIIn 1856, Adolphe Braun published a book containing 288 photographs of her so she becomes one of the first fashion models.
- Relationship between photographer model and clothing- theatre
- Early modern fashion shootHe was a photographer for the Condé Nast magazines Vogue and Vanity Fair from 1923–1938, and concurrently worked for many advertising agencies including J. Walter Thompson. During these years Steichen was regarded as the best known and highest paid photographer in the worldWhile at MoMA, in 1955 he curated and assembled the exhibit The Family of Man.
- though perhaps best known for freeing women from corsets and for his startling inventions including hobble skirts, "harem" pantaloons, and "lampshade" tunics, Poiret's major contribution to fashion was his development of an approach to dressmaking centered on draping, a radical departure from the tailoring and pattern-making of the past.[7]Poiret was influenced by antique and regional dress, and favored clothing cut along straight lines and constructed of rectangles.[7] The structural simplicity of his clothing represented a "pivotal moment in the emergence of modernism" generally, and "effectively established the paradigm of modern fashion, irrevocably changing the direction of costume history.[
- Vogue- FranceHB in US
- six volumes of diaries were published, spanning the years 1922–1974. Recently a number of unexpurgated diaries have been published. These differ immensely in places to Beaton's original publications. Fearing libel suits in his own lifetime, it would have been foolhardy for Beaton to have included some of his more frank and incisive observations.[14]a group of bohemian young aristocrats and socialites in 1920s London.[1] They threw elaborate fancy dress parties, went on elaborate treasure hunts through nighttime London, and drank heavily and experimented with drugs—all of which was enthusiastically covered by the journalists such as Tom Driberg.[2] They inspired a number of writers, including Nancy Mitford (Highland Fling), Anthony Powell (A Dance to the Music of Time), Henry Green (Party Going) and the poet John Betjeman (A Subaltern's Love Song). Evelyn Waugh's 1930 novel Vile Bodies is a satirical look at this scene.[2]Cecil Beaton began his career in photography by documenting this set, of which he was a member.
- All interests illustrated in this photo
- (21 April 1906 – 28 February 1987) was a British aristocrat known for his decadent lifestyle. It is said, albeit apocryphally, that he spent most of his life in bed.Relationship with Siegfried Sassoon
- In the White Drawing Room in Buckingham Palace
- she was stopped from walking in front of a car on a Manhattan street by the founder of Vogue magazine, Condé Nast, thus launching her modeling career when she appeared on the cover of the March 1927 edition in an illustration by George Lepape.Beame one of the most sought after models in NY
- Buchenwald Concentration Camp (1945)
- In 1928 she married the sculptor Meyer Wolfe, who constructed the backgrounds of many of her photos
- 50’s supermodel
- In 1935, American Kodak introduced the first modern "integral tripack" colour film and called it KodachromeCindy Sherman40’s 50’s hollywood glamour, retouching lighting- more to do with portraiture and celebrity
- British VogueThe film Blowup (1966), directed by Michelangelo Antonioni, concerns the work and sexual habits of a London fashion photographer played by David Hemmings and is largely based on Bailey.he "Swinging London" scene was aptly reflected in his Box of Pin-Ups (1964): a box of poster-prints of 1960s celebrities and socialites including Terence Stamp, The Beatles, Mick Jagger, Jean Shrimpton, PJ Proby, Cecil Beaton, Rudolf Nureyev, Andy Warhol and notorious East Endgangsters the Kray twins (see photo).
- Avedon did not conform to the standard technique of taking fashion photographs, where models stood emotionless and seemingly indifferent to the camera. Instead, Avedon showed models full of emotion, smiling, laughing, and, many times, in action.
- Sadomaochistic element to some worksTreatment of the nudeSelf portrait with wife and models 1981
- Brooklyn born photographerPhotos from the 80’s pubd retrospectively
- 1990,s
- Teller studied at the BayerischeStaatslehranstaltfürPhotographie in Munich, Germany (1984–1986). He emigrated to London, England in 1986.Teller's fashion photographs have been featured in The Face,[1]Vogue (US, France, England, Italy), Another, Index, W Magazine, Self Service, Details, Purple, i-D, and 032c, among others. Since 2004, Teller has shot campaigns for Marc Jacobs. He has also shot campaigns for Vivienne Westwood.[2] Teller has recently collaborated with Céline.[3]He frequently works with the musician Björk.[4]
- Day used Kate Moss as the model in an eight-page fashion story for The Face, in July 1990. The story showcased garments by Romeo Gigli, Joseph Tricot, Ralph Lauren, and a feather head-dress from the now-defunct Covent Garden boutique WorldDied of a brain tumor
- Trend for grittty realism of the 90’s disappearsReturn to the idealised form s and bodies of the 1940’s 50’sHollywood glamour- sculpted by clothing, lighting hand retouching.Bodies and skin can be made perfect, bigger or smaller at whim
- graphic sexual subject matter.Line between pornography and fashion erased.
- Fashion and the fantasticalWoman as super hero/ carTransform- body and machinePugh architectural designs
- Americanfashion blogger.[1] She began her blog, "Style Rookie" on March 31, 2008 at age 11.[2] Initially, her parents did not completely know what Tavi was doing until she asked for their permission to appear in a New York Times magazine story.[3] Since then, she has had as many as 50,000 readers.[citIn August 2009, she appeared on the cover of Pop magazine, which feature photographs by Jamie Morgan and was designed by artist Damien Hirst.[6][7] Since then, Tavi has been featured in the View section of the December/January 2010 issue of Teen Vogue magazine and February 2010 issue of the French Vogue. Bloggers like Tavi have been referred to as the "frontline of fashion".[8][9] She has also become a regular guest at fashion shows and a muse for designers in Tokyo.[10][11][12] She is also partly inspiration for Rodarte's line at Target.[13] Most recently, Gevinson was named a "Vogueista" by Vogue Italia with friend, Kristin Prim.[14]
- Ordinary people/styleVersions of the street style website from all over the worldFounded 2007Various bloggrs/photographers egFacehunter and The Sartorialist.
- What I wore today- outfit for every day.UK, 24 years old‘internet sensation, book published
- Instant commercialisation
- Photographer Ari Versluis and profiler Ellie Uyttenbroek have worked together since October 1994. Inspired by a shared interest in the striking dress codes of various social groups, they have systematically documented numerous identities over the last 16 years. Rotterdam’s heterogeneous, multicultural street scene remains a major source of inspiration for Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek, They call their series Exactitudes: a contraction of exact and attitude. By registering their subjects in an identical framework, with similar poses and a strictly observed dress code, Versluis and Uyttenbroek provide an almost scientific, anthropological record of people’s attempts to distinguish themselves from others by assuming a group identity. The apparent contradiction between individuality and uniformity is, however, taken to such extremes in their arresting objective-looking photographic viewpoint and stylistic analysis that the artistic aspect clearly dominates the purely documentary element. The end of the illusion of individuality? Doc project, scientific in nature