The document provides guidance on selecting the proper wax and structure for skiing in different conditions. It discusses waxing new skis, race waxing, quick waxing instructions, and waxing skis for man-made snow. Key recommendations include matching the ski flex and wax hardness to the temperature and choosing a wax slightly colder than the forecast if conditions are uncertain. Having multiple pairs of skis with different structures is advised to adapt to changing conditions.

1. Table of Contents
Fast Skis and Skiing Introduction and Background for fast skis and skiing
Waxing Tools List of necessary tools to get started waxing
Detailed instruction on prepping new skis and stone
Detailed Waxing for New or
ground skis for waxing and the keys to making skis
Stone Ground Skis
fast
Detailed instructions for race waxing... all the little
Race Waxing
steps
Step-by-Step Waxing General easy waxing instructions ( Beginning
Instructions Waxing & Quick Waxing)
Flite # 11 Waxing
Flite Applications for both ironing and corking
Instructions
Paste Waxing Slick Pro Paste Waxing easy system to fast skis
Waxing Selection Check out the wax master for hints on waxing
Tips for waxing and skis flex for skiing on Man
Man Made Snow
Made Snow
Structure How When & Why to add structure
Miscellaneous General Tips on Ski Waxing
Summary
Questions or Comments?

2. Fast Skis & Skiing
As the ski season approaches, we receive more and more questions
about how to wax new skis for snow and what is the proper waxing
technique.
Remember, waxing skis can be as much art as science and is constantly
changing with time and new technologies
So.... Before we start waxing lets look at what makes for fast skis and
fast skiing
Checking Questions
1. How's the training going, Skiing is a technique driven sport, having
good technique and being able to ride a flat ski are keys to fast skiing...its
never to late to sign up for some ski lessons or to join a training group
2. Do your Skis and Boots fit correctly, Boots that are worn out or do fit
correctly will allow your feet to move around in the boot making ski control
difficult. Tip - Purchase the boots the fit the best first and the bindings
second
Skis that do not fit correctly do not glide well and may be difficult to
control.
If you are not sure of the boot and ski fit take them to a local shop for a fit
check.
3. Base Condition, How's the base condition, now is the time to repair
deep gouges, look for shiny glazed spots as these may be areas that are
burnt and will require metal scraping or stone grinding for repair. (Only use
a metal scraper if you are experienced)
If the skis have never been fast they may need stone grinding or a fit
check
4. Waxing Technique, Like good skiing, waxing takes practice --- some
lessons may be helpful.
Take the time to attend a waxing clinic at your local shop or stop by for
some pointers.
If everything is yes here we are ready to wax skis ....

3. Waxing Tools
To get started, a few things are important
• Wax Bench - Many Choices here, all sorts types and sizes -- Check with
your local Dealers for some options
• Waxing Iron - Only use an iron designed for Ski Waxing
• The next items are much less expensive;
o Plastic scraper,
o Ski brushes (fiber and metal), Horse Hair, Nylon and Metal
o Thermal Pad
o Grove cleaning tool
o White Scotchbrite Pad
o Selection of waxes

4. Detailed Waxing Instructions for New or Stone Ground Skis
1. Open the Skis Base Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with medium
metal brush.
This will open the ski base clean out wax and dirt and allow better wax penetration of the
new wax.
2. Remove Base Hairs Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Pad
wrapped over a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scothbrite pad flat and
prevent it rounding off the ski edges.
Next, use a razor tool held at a 90° angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski several
times to remove the fine base hairs. Check the razor blade edge after each pass and
repeat until no gray fillings are left on the razor
3. Hot Wax Process Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep wax
onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail.
The wax will act as an insulator, a generous layer helps keep the iron off the skis base,
use about one drip every 1/2 inch, more if you are inexperienced. When ironing in the
wax, draw the iron down the ski holding a molten bead of wax about 2 to 3 inches
behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If necessary a second pass can pick
up any places that are missed.
4. Scraping off the Wax Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edges
while the ski is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature before
scraping the bases
Scrape the wax off using short easy strokes again working from tip to tail until all the wax
is removed
(Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it sharp A scraper sharpener makes it easy to give
the scraper a few passes each time before scraping.
5. Brushing out the ski Several options here If you are experienced A fine metal brush
or a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the tendency here, however, is to over
brush the ski with these tools and remove too much wax, so proceed cautiously when
using metal brushes or power tools after waxing
Preferred, use a Nylon brush followed by a horse hair brush. When it appears no further
wax is being removed stop.
6. Repeat steps 3 to 5
7. Waxing Sequence
New Skis 5 to 6 layers or Base Prep followed by 2 to 3 layers of HS-30 Red, 2 to 3 layers
of HS-20 Blue and a few layers of HS-10 Green - add the wax of the day and go skiing
Stone Grinding This depends on whether the skis were deep ground to remove gouges
and burnt bases or were just "touched up"
For "deep ground bases" follow the same procedure described in the new skis section
as most of the wax will be removed in the grinding process.
For "touched up skis" the process is shortened as not as much wax is removed in the
grinding process. Reduce the Base Prep applications about 2 to 3 layers followed by the
HS-30 Red and a few layer of HS-20 Blue, then apply the wax of the day and ski.
Tip -- Skis generally do not get fast until they get some hard wax into them. This is
something to try if your skis do not seem to be fast or are not getting fast -- add a few
layer of HS-10 Teal Wax

5. Race Waxing
1. Open the Skis Base Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with fine metal
brush for cold condition and medium metal brush for warmer conditions use 15° F as a
general break point for the brushes. This will open the ski base clean out wax and dirt
and allow better wax penetration of the new wax.
2. Remove Base Hairs Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Pad
wrapped over a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scotchbrite pad flat and
prevent it from rounding of the ski edges.
Next, use a razor tool held at a 90° angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski several
times to remove the fine base hairs. Check the razor blade after each after each pass
and repeat until no gray fillings are left on the razor.
3. Hot Wax Process Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep wax
onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail. The wax will act as an insulator, a generous
layer helps keep the iron off the skis base, use about one drip every 1/2 inch, more if you
are inexperienced. When ironing in the wax, draw the iron down the ski holding a molten
bead of wax about 2 to 3 inches behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If
necessary a second pass can pick up any places that are missed.
4. Hot Scrape Hot scrape and brush out the skis for an additional cleaning.
Then repeat step 3 and allow the ski to cool to room temperature before scraping
5. Scraping off the Wax Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edges
while the ski is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature before
scraping the bases
Scrape the wax off using short easy strokes, again working from tip to tail until all wax is
removed
(Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it sharp A scraper sharpener makes it easy to have
a sharp scraper, just give the scraper a few passes over the sharpener each time before
scraping.
6. Brushing out the ski Several options here If you are experienced A fine metal brush
or a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the tendency here, however, is to over
brush the ski with these tools and remove too much wax, so proceed cautiously when
using metal brushes or power tools after waxing
Preferred is to use a Nylon brush followed by a horse hair brush. When it appears no
further wax is being removed stop.
7. Wax System The Fast wax system is to layer up the ski with wax starting with Base
Prep and go to an under layer of the Sport wax followed Low Fluoro or High Fluoro
waxes depending on conditions
Wax Example for Humid Conditions Recommendations for the 2007 Birkie
Hot Scrape Base Prep
1 Layer of HS-30 Red
2 Layers of HSF-30 Salmon
Flite corked or ironed in over the top the HSF-30 Salmon
For extremely Humid condition an added layer of Flite 11 will improve speed significantly

6. Step-by-Step Waxing Instructions
1. Always work the ski from the tip to the tail. (never in reverse direction).
Iron in the wax scrape and brush from tip to tail
2. Clean the ski.
o Brush off the ski base with a fine metal or nylon brush
o Melt wax onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail
o Scrape warm with a plastic scraper
o Brush out with the Nylon Brush
3. Base Preparation.
o If the ski base is damaged check with your local Dealer for advice
o Remove the fibrils with a White Scotchbrite pad
o Structure the ski base for current conditions (see section on Tips)
4. Wax for current conditions and allow ski to cool prior to scraping with
plastic scraper.
5. Brush the ski with a fiber brush to clean the structure.
Repeat steps 4 and 5.
6. Structure the ski base for current conditions (see Tips)
Every Day Quick Waxing
1. Brush out the ski with a fine metal or Nylon Brush
2. Melt in wax for the current conditions and iron in from tip to tail
3. Grab a snack while the ski cools
4. Scrape and brush out -- go skiing
Even Better Yet
1. Brush out the ski with Nylon Brush
2. Rub in a layer of Slick Pro
3. Grab a Snack
4. Cork in with a Thermal Pad, Bush out and Ski

7. Flite # 11 Application Instructions
Iron Instructions
1. Follow the Fast Wax instructions for preparing and waxing the ski base.
2. Apply Flite powder to the ski base and distribute evenly.
3. Iron in from tip to tail, even pressure and steady slow speed with the
iron (low heat).
4. Cork the ski from tip to tail, use high pressure rapid speed to make
powder blend into the ski base.
5. Let the ski cool slowly.
6. Brush with coarse then fine brush always working the ski from tip to
tail.
7. Polish ski base.
Corking Instructions
1. Follow the Fast Wax instructions for preparing and waxing ski base.
2. Apply Flite powder to the ski base and distribute evenly.
3. Cork the Flite powder working the ski from tip to tail, use high pressure
and rapid speed to generate enough heat
to make powder blend into the ski base.
4. Brush with coarse then fine brush always working the ski from tip to
tail.
5. Polish ski base.
Paste Waxing
A new system for High Performance Waxing is the new Slick Pro Paste
Wax Line.
Slick Pro gives the performance of a Hot Melt wax in ease of a Paste
Wax.
1. Rub on Slick Pro using the inclosed foam applicator
2. Let dry for 3 to 5 minutes
3. Buff in with the Speed Block
4. Brush out with a horse hair brush and Ski
5. For added durability repeat 1 to 4 for a second coat
Slick Pro is a great wax at the race site when conditions from the
forecast.
Saves time when traveling,
Is a great training wax during the week.
Great for families with multiple skiers --Change the wax on everyone's skis
in just a few minutes
Check out the details in the newsletter

8. Wax Selection
When selecting a wax, sometimes we have to trust the weather report.
However, even with our weather forecasting models, occasionally an
unexpected front comes through changing the conditions.
If the skis must be waxed the day before a race and conditions are
uncertain, try to select a wax slightly colder than forecasted and apply a
finer structure than normal. This way, if the temperature change is warmer
than expected, structure can be added at the race site with a rolling riling
tool and your skis will be OK.
The best bet is to have a back up pair of skis waxed for alternate
conditions. Try not to error on the side of waxing too warm. Going from a
warm wax and large structure to a cold wax and polished skis is difficult to
accomplish at the race site.
Third option is to carry a selection of the Slick Pro Paste wax. Slick Pro
can be applied at the race site for quick waxing
Link to the Wax Master
.
Artificial or man-made snow - referred to from here on as MMS, a
combination of snow, dirt and oil.
Keep in mind as we make recommendations for MMS the 80 – 20 rule
applies: the rule is good 80% of the time.
MMS is a hard particle of ice, not a hollow flake of snow. For this reason,
wax recommendations will change slightly from those for natural snow.
MMS can also vary wildly because of the volume traffic on the trail and the
grooming and tilling of the snow
-- On MMS Ski flex can be a major factor, try to keep a medium and stiff
skis on hand and use more structure than normal
In temperatures below freezing, wax a littler harder with more structure
and a stiffer ski. In temperatures above freezing, wax cooler with a larger
structure. MMS holds more moisture in cooler temperatures, however,
MMS does not mush out as easily in warm temperatures and the base
under the MMS is generally ICE.

9. General recommendations: cold dry wind from the north
o Temperature in the single digits, HS-0 White – Universal grind, stiff
ski.
o Temperature in the teens to low 20’s, HSF-10 Green – Universal
grind, stiff to medium flexed ski.
o Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-20 Tan – Universal structure,
stiff to medium flex skis.
o Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-30 Salmon – Universal
structure with a light rill, still to medium flex ski.
General recommendations: wind from the south, warm and humid
o Temperature in the upper teens-low 20’s, HSF-20 Tan – Universal
grind, stiff to medium flexed ski
o Temperature in the upper 20’s to low 30’s, HSF 30 Salmon –
Universal structure with a rill, still to medium flex ski
o Temperature at or above freezing, HSF-30 Salmon – Rill or wet
grind, stiff ski
Ski Maintenance: WAX more often. MMS is abrasive and will wear wax
faster than snow. If you do not wax your skis MMS will eat up your bases.
Structure
If you have one pair of skis, changing the base structure will be a regular
occurrence as snow type, temperature and conditions change.
1. Polish the base for cold conditions and be sure to keep the ski surface
very smooth.
2. For intermediate conditions, 15 to 25 F, brush the base with a fine metal
brush.
3. For conditions just below freezing use a medium metal brush if
conditions are dry, rill if wet conditions
4. Above 35 F, begin with a fine rill and increase the size of the rill as the
temperature increases. Apply structure in a discontinuous pattern.
If several pairs of skis are available, try to set up a pair of skis up for each
condition. Here stone grinding will help. Use a fine grind for cold
conditions and increase the size of the grind as the temperature warms.
The ski grinding technician, should be able to maximize your skis
performance by matching the proper stone grind, with the ski flex, for the
snow conditions. For more information on stonegrinding options, see
Stonegrinding Options for Peak Performance
If you plan on having your skis stone ground, be sure seek out a shop that
specializes in stone grinding

10. Miscellaneous
Keep both the metal and plastic scrapers sharp. Use a diamond stone on
the metal scraper. Hold the scraper at a 90 degree angle and rotate in a
figure eight pattern. Sharpen the plastic scraper with the Fast Wax
Eversharp Scraper Sharpener. It will keep your scraper perfectly flat as it
sharpens the edge.
Select waxes by snow conditions. Many times with large air temperature
swings, the snow will remain constant or lag significantly behind the air
temperature, especially in wooded areas. If possible, always test your skis
on the trail not in the stadium.
Cold, clear or windy conditions or cold new snow; anticipate abrasive
snow and wax for colder than expected temperatures.
Low areas, woods, generally shaded areas; wax for colder than expected
temperatures.
Warm nights, new snow; expect moist snow and use structure and
fluorinated waxes. In addition, overcast conditions are generally humid,
and fluorinated waxes typically work best.
Summary
The main thing to remember is be consistent with waxing. Use the same
process each time and develop a waxing log the same as a training log,
noting structure, temperature, snow conditions and performance.
Wax your skis often, the more skis are waxed, the faster the skis become
and the better you become at waxing.
Test glide skis often. Use a steep down hill for high speed evaluation, low
angle hills for slow speed
and up-hill for striding. Many times top racers choose a race ski by the
way it climbs.
Most of all, have fun and ski often.
Questions or Comments?
Please contact Dan Meyer at fastwax@visi.com with any technical questions or
comments on the Fast Wax website.