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1. TREND FORECASTING COMPANIES

2. ears later, when one looks back at the spring of 2014, itought
Yto be remembered asthe beginning of a trend that lingered on
•
•
•
Womenswear
Sporty silhouettes coloured
in an icy palette of pastels
gush in with ultra relaxed
formals and translucent
sheers
Menswear
The dandy man and the
technical geek coexist
amid abstract plaids and
geometric florals

3. FFaasshhiioonnFFoorrwwaarrddTTrreennddss spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaytrends |FFT magazine
MENSWEA
R
What startedatresortof 2014forwomen continuedto gainmomentum andtake
form in menswear as well. With sporty chic being the keyword, sportswear
came about full circle at menswear S/S 2014, emerging as the underlining
theme of the season. The conjunction of formal wear and sportswear towards
a modish whole, attributed by a casual but well put together man, will be the
business propellant for the season. Recurrences of sweatshirts and futuristic
jackets – sporty and technical
– together with knits and jacquards, were a notably frequent affair, so was the
long length of the overcoats and the occasional tunic silhouette. Sporty
separates aside, formals were presented with an effortless culmination of
athleticism with designers trading in buttons on classy jackets for zippers.
Loose pants and roomier shorts, fold ups and boxy vests were frequented by
many,accounting for aneasy, formal vibe.
While there were traces of the swinging ‘60s, dandy gentlemen were evinced
by the cropped and tapered trousers executed with the suit sets and the
loose sleeve tee. There was also a footprint of short suits promising to break
commercial grounds, perfectly in sync with the short sets in general. Florals
set the category of prints afloat with a dark charisma and thought,
merging with geometric quirky takes; the technique of splatter and
brushstrokes called for considerable attention after repeated occurrences at
Paris. Resultantly, colour in the men’s wardrobe has its fair share of hopping
between bright hued layers and icy tones. Leather defies convention
once again penetrating the summer game. Fabric innovation and
technology were the prime streaks manifested inconstructions that account for
thechanging trends in the menswearmarkets.
Unfussy but classy, aggregates to be the season’s vibe with silhouettes that
were at relative ease and sportswear was undeniably the plinth on which the
fashion weeks were firmly fixated.
his is the perfect look to standout in the crowd and shine brighter than thy neighbour. Designers tailored
Tsuits of various shapes and sizes in shimmer, sequin, foil and glistening silks. While some preferred the toned
down approach of wearing a shiny coat on a monochrome suit, there were others who went guns blazing in
light reflecting fabrics head to toe, starting from the tie to the shirt to finally, the pants. Instead of the usual
gold, silver and copper; light green, blood red and royal blue were colours that were used beautifully this
season too.
Tom Ford
Futuristic
Formals
E. Tautz
Costume National
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana
Saint Laurent
Moschino

4. Fashion Forward Trends spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaytrends |FFT magazine
Sporty
Suave
Balenciaga Calvin Klein
Dsquared² Richard Nicoll Hermès Giorgio Armani
a show without an element of sport on display. Bomber jackets inset with shirts, sweatshirts with shorts, track
pants, ribbed cuffs and the panels, all bear testimony. Then there were the blazers and pants worn with sweats and
the formal trousers with jerseys and bombers all forming the genesis for Sporty Chic. Embraced by all, the mood
took full form when the buttons were replaced by zippers, knits found a slot and the sleeves were rolled up.
Fendi
clear winner for Autumn/Winter 2013, transparency has clawed its way to spring 2014 too. Frequenting shirts
Aand coats, pants were added to the list, playing on sheer fabrics, such as net, mesh, lace and more. Some
designers chose to leave a bit to the imagination by using opaque pockets, collars and plackets on a filmy bodice,
while others picked the ‘got it, flaunt it’ strategy. Layering was quite prominent, taking the trend over to a wearable
zone. Instead of its usual colourless forms, bright green, gray and pale yellow were experimented with atease.
Salvatore Ferragamo
Givenchy
Paul Smith
Christopher Shannon
MAN
BLKDNM
Transparenc
y
Dries Van Noten

5. FFaasshhiioonnFFoorrwwaarrddTTrreennddss spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaytrends |FFT magazine
the key silhouettes of the season. However, designers looked past the regular sweatshirts, creatively employing
elements of it on classic menswear separates. In a hybrid fashion, office blazers boasted of hoodie caps and bomber
sleeves (ending in gathered cuffs), with some variations replacing zipped closures for the usual buttoned plackets.
Inversely, sweatshirts and bombers too were diced in a flavour of formal wear, with designers constructing them with
suit lapels, welt pockets and button fasteners.
The
Hybrid
Alexis Mabille
Michael Bastian
KTZ
Emporio Armani
Kris Van Assche
Giorgio Armani
Kenzo
hort suits have convincingly matured from an experimental streak to a mainstream phenomenon. The tapered
Sshort suit, this summer, is succeeded by an air of comfort underlined by a serious tone of formal. Loose bottoms
– inclining towards three-fourths – have replaced the skinny shorts; rationally, so the longer blazers leave sufficient
room for slouch. Ranging from monochromatic short suits to peaking lapels on a double breasted coat safely
played along the side walls of formal.
ANot-So-Short
Suit
Dior Homme Dsquared²
Agi & Sam
Jil Sander
Alexander McQueen
Kris Van Assche
Diesel Black Gold

6. FFaasshhiioonnFFoorrwwaarrddTTrreennddss spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaytrends |FFT magazine
The length varying from short to mid-thigh to knee-length, cut in simple fabrics and fits, the kurta shirt is an
official season trend. The mandarin collar is the distinguishing characteristic of this fashion. Layering over T-shirts
and extended sheer panelling can be incorporated well with a kurta for a more edgy vibe. This kurta shirt lends an
air of ease and transforms the ensemble into an effortless laidback one.
John Galliano
Billy Reid
Duckie Brown
SikiIm
Fendi
Meadham Kirchhoff
KTZ
Kurta
Clad
uterwear for spring had a major moment with Frida Giannini’s innovative technical transformation at Gucci.
OWhile the fabrics got tech(y), the jackets got techno. The sporty jackets made of technical fabrics embodied
neater constructions – with zippers and Velcro – a spring highlight of creativity for menswear. Anoraks with sharp
flaps worn with sci-fi glasses made the jacket look no less than a futuristic entity. The construction of some others
was relatively easy and slouched but with an edge of its own rendered through the sheen and sheer shirts.
Tech(Y)
Jack
Dries Van NotenDiesel Black Gold
Balenciaga
Christopher Raeburn
Gucci
Burberry Prorsum
Salvatore Ferragamo

7. Fashion Forward Trends spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaytrends |FFT magazine
artitioning the garment in geometric shapes so the end product looks like multiple garments sewn together to
Pform one is how designers divided their ensembles. This S/S’14 men’s runway saw a lot of this trend popping up
in bold horizontal stripes, using different hues of the same colour strategically to highlight each segment and with
creatively placing each piece to resemble patchwork with the pockets starkly standing out from the background
shades. Colour divide can be created in formal and casual wear, both by creating a bold impact on suits, pants
overcoats, sweatshirts but to keep it subtle and yet fashionable, it can be colour blocked by accessories like ties
and beltstoo.
Colour
Divide
Paul Smith E. Tautz
Agi & Sam
Iceberg
Damir Doma
Raf Simons
Dior Homme
he criss-cross pattern is more than the customary horizontal and vertical bands, this was proved to be true as the
Tprint was shaped into Tartans, Gingham checks and Tattersall or Madras checks this spring. Designers stuck to
the customary shades of blue iris, blood red, black and white but played around with the execution. Mixing different
plaid patterns in one ensemble and reintroducing it in abstract forms was a break from the ordinary. Except on the
obvious formal attire, plaid was spread on shorts, jackets, jumpers and T-shirts, expanding to the territory of casual
wear too. Suitable for all fabrics, the unfading pattern deems more than fit for summer.
Junya Watanabe
Phillip Lim
Neil Barrett
Comme des Garçons
Damir Doma
Jil Sander
Missoni
MadOver
Plaid

8. FFaasshhiioonnFFoorrwwaarrddTTrreennddss spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaydetails |FFT magazine
ne colour found in prominence this season was indigo. The shade of wisdom and intuition spans across
Odifferent channels of fashion, said to have its roots embedded as a strong Indian dye colour. It is one of the
shades that stand out in the current fascination for blue. Deep dark tones along with some graded tones ruled the
runways. The colour that in itself is a very rich tone of blue works best with neutral shades like white and other light
colours like pale limes and pinks in addition to black for more dressy ensembles. With subtle hints of mysticism
and spirituality, indigo conveys just the right amount of energy and charm holding a strong position in the palette
stories for coming seasons too.
Hermes
Agi & Sam
Lanvin
Canali
Missoni
Jil Sander
E. Tautz
Indigo
Age
man’s waist has a face this season, coming into shape on the most unexpected silhouettes. With a defined waist,
Adesigners injected a dose of sartorial finesse in ready-to-wear separates. Work wear ensembles – shirts and overalls –
were either cinched around the waist, side seams with a gathered stitch or held by riveted waistbands on either side. Belts
were brought out to accentuate form on both casual and evening wear. While leather waistbands on rolled up pants stood
for a striking contrast, buckled and knotted belt on coats, blazers and trenches made for a recurring image on the runway.
Some designers went as far as belting bombers and longer sweatshirts, adding a calculated fit to their slackcontours.
Alexis Mabille3.1 Phillip Lim
Balmain Versace
Robert GellerKris Van Assche Lee Roach
Pinch Of Cinch

9. FFaasshhiioonnFFoorrwwaarrddTTrreennddss spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaydetails |FFT magazine
through colour. A mish-mash of colours splattered across the clothes resulted in standout products in many designer
collections for men. London witnessed the trend in the form of psychedelic tie&dye from head to toe, whereas Paris and
Milan frequented splatter in a hodgepodge manner and fused it with other print forms, such as plaid and stripes. While
some incorporated the entire spectrum of colours, others used patterns resembling brush-strokes and splatters executed in
hues that were rather dull and subdued.
Matter Of Splatter
lorals for men and that of a dark variety had a charm of its own, in the minds of many. From tropical vagaries to renaissance
Fintricacies, they were big and around. But, what was intriguing this year was the use of geometric prints – stripes or checks
– with feminine floral ones. Merged in the same ensemble at some shows and in others, on separates – the upper covered
in flowers and the bottom part striped or checkered, this trend breaks all rules of Do’s and Dont’s in prints. Flometrics bring
a statistical quality to something that is so inherently immeasurable and free-flowing.
Flometric
Junya Watanabe
Alexander McQueen
Jean Paul Gaultier
Ann Demeulemeester
Saint Laurent
3.1 Phillip Lim Versace MAN Louis Vuitton
Issey MiyakeComme des Garçons3.1 Phillip Lim

10. FFaasshhiioonnFFoorrwwaarrddTTrreennddss spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaydetails |FFT magazine
peppy colours, optical weave patterns and futuristic prints, knits have staged a playful comeback. Open knits, in specific,
were a soothing change from the usual, adding an element of see-through, perfect for the spring runways. Some designers
incorporated waffle-knit sweaters too, while others went for abstract jaggedpatterns.
Knitty Gritty
Giorgio Armani Gucci John Varvatos
FendiRichard NicollTrussardi
here is a lot more than usual that can fit into men’s pockets this season. The modest pocket square has been stretched
Twider and longer to make a grand appearance on outerwear and other ensembles. The chunky pockets, with some
variations measuring above 10 inches, were mostly topped with buttoned flaps on coats and jackets. Placed on chests and
waists, big bellows pockets (with expandable sewn sides and a front boxy pleat) were sewn on safari jackets while
structural flap pockets hopped from sweatshirts to bomber jackets. Frontier pockets together with patched pockets on
overalls strengthened the adaptability of the trend on other ready-to-wear separates.
Bit-O-Leather
Philipp Plein
Calvin Klein Costume National
Lanvin McQ Alexander McQueen
Dsquared2
Valentino

11. FFaasshhiioonnFFoorrwwaarrddTTrreennddss spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaydetails |FFT magazine
n accessory that was hard to miss on any designer runway this season was that of a scarf- square, circular and long galore.
AThey were fashioned in various different ways; Loop-n-through, knot, infinity, cowboy, designers got their creative juices
flowing with each style. Embracing the summer season, scarves were seen in feminine prints and bright colours; bringing
much life to various power suits and casual daywear. Knits and woven were both present, tucked in prim or swaying, slung
around the neck. Easily this season’s must have.
Scarf The Issue
Etro
Missoni
Ermenegildo Zegna
Les Hommes
Hermès
Paul Smith
he yoke of a shirt, meant to lend support to parts that needed it, was approached in different ways of creative interest
Tthis spring. One was via fabric, juxtaposing textiles for standout looks – sheer on opaque or vice versa – and even using
metallic ones for added effect. The second was managed through colours: black on white, white on black and pale pink on
white. Variation was also created through pleating the yoke and colour blocking it. What traditionally remains concealed
behind layers was seen slowly sitting front row this season.
Duke OF Yoke
Shaun Samson
Emporio Armani
John Varvatos
Alexander McQueen
Burberry Prorsum
Acne Studios

12. Fashion Forward Trends spring/summer2014 | menswear |runwaydetails |FFT magazine
The utility fasteners were face-lifted to two- way separating zippers, making quite an edgy impact on outerwear separates.
Flattering a myriad looks, fitted bombers were sewn with sleek zippers, boxy jackets were locked neatly in metallic zippers
much like the dandy blazers and taking a futuristic leap were tech-inspired jackets replaced broad leather plackets with the
regular concealed closures. The trend came together on sport blazers as well, where the two-way zipper shifted to a front
sideway placket.
Zipped 2-Ways
Richard Nicoll Z Zegna
James Long
Giorgio Armani
Dries Van Noten Emporio Armani
here is a lot more than the usual that can fit into a man’s pocket this season. The modest pocket square has been
Tstretched wider and longer to make a grand appearance on outerwear and other ensembles. The chunky pockets,
with some variations measuring above 10 inches, were mostly topped with buttoned flaps on coats and jackets. Placed on
chests and waists, big bellows pockets (with expandable sewn sides and a front boxy pleat) were sewn on safari jackets
while structural flap pockets hopped from sweatshirts to bomber jackets. Frontier pockets together with patched pockets
on overalls strengthened the adaptability of the trend on other ready-to-wear separates.
Colossal Pockets
Burberry Prorsum
Balenciaga
John Galliano
Christopher Raeburn
3.1 Phillip Lim Alexander McQueen

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