1. The
SURVIVOR
The Quarterly Journal of Desert Survivors
DEDICATED TO EXPERIENCING, SHARING AND PROTECTING DESERT LANDS
WINTER 2001 OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA
Crunch Time in the Mojave: Bring on the SUVs
Saving the Tortoise Requires Unlikely Alliance
By Bob Ellis
Twenty one years after the BLM promised tank base which will require greater OHV
to designate vehicle routes in the California restrictions on the remaining tortoise habitat.
Desert, the first “interim” route systems are As desert protection advocates and non-
being put into place in the West Mojave motorized recreationists, we support the BLM
desert. In certain areas the BLM has closed in its efforts to implement these restrictions.
as many as 70 percent of the existing routes. However, we are skeptical that these begin-
These are in critical desert tortoise habitat. nings will be followed through so as to result
The BLM is finally acting as a result of the in tortoise recovery. It took a lawsuit to get
Center for Biological Diversity’s (CBD) lawsuit the first steps under way. We don’t think the
settlement, which forced them to admit that BLM will really be able to enforce the restric-
they had not followed proper procedure tions they are starting to implement, or that it
regarding protection of endangered species in wiill demand sufficiently strong protection in
the desert. the final plans. We don’t trust the US Fish
After years of over-indulgent BLM over- and Wildlife Service and BLM to stand firm on
sight, the off-roaders and the ranchers are continued on page 16
starting to feel the pressure of a three-armed
Inside:
squeeze. The decline of the desert tortoise
Feature Stories:
has brought on the following: 1) The CBD’s Desert Trail Relay: Nevada or Bust 2
lawsuit forced the BLM to implement “interim” Peril in the Panamints: Dave McMullen 10
restrictions on OHV use and grazing; 2) BLM Spring On the Escalante: Dave Holten 32
is being forced to complete management
plans for the Northern and Eastern Colorado Travels in Nevada:
Three Mountains: Bill Johansson 26
(NECO), Northern and Eastern Mojave Reveille Range: Steve Tabor 27
(NEMO), and Western Mojave (WEMO) American Ground Zero: Chris Schiller 29
deserts, which contain long-term restrictions
on OHVs and grazing in favor of the tortoise; Issues:
and, 3) In spite of all the recent evidence Briggs Mine Imperils Panamints: Bob Ellis 14
Cadiz Groundwater Grab: Bob Ellis 17
showing their obsolescence, the military has Wilderness Plan for Inyos: Bob Ellis 24
insisted on expanding the Fort Irwin heavy Issues Watch: Janet Johnson 18

2. DESERT TRAIL RELAY REACHES NEVADA BORDER
by Steve Tabor
On November 10, 2001, under a clear
blue sky, thirteen Desert Survivors sat on the
Nevada border drinking champagne and
celebrating completion of the second leg of
the Great Desert Trail Relay. Participants in
the second leg had just crossed 352 miles of
desert in 38 days, from Kelso Depot in the
Mojave National Preserve to the northeast-
ern tip of Death Valley. Together, the first
“This trail is not a
Sunday walk in the park.”
and second relays had crossed the entire
656 miles of the California Desert Trail from
Mexico to Nevada.
Heat was our most significant obstacle
this fall, especially on the early segments.
We had decided to start the trips immedi-
ately after Labor Day, to beat the snow and
cold at the end of the Relay in the higher segments especially hard going (and dra-
elevations of Death Valley. Unfortunately, matically demonstrated why we call our-
September and October turned out unsea- selves Survivors). But the leaders were
sonably hot, which made the first three determined, the members were hardy, and
the trips went on.
Fourteen members and seven leaders
participated in the second Relay, many of
whom hiked two or more continuous seg-
ments. My thanks to all who participated.
Despite the extreme heat, sparse atten-
dance, long car shuttles and road wash-outs,
we didn’t miss a single segment. This was
largely due to the strength and commitment
of the leaders, and I am especially grateful to
them. I only hope that those who come after
us on the Desert Trail will savor the adven-
ture as much as we did. As one hiker told
me, “this trail is not a Sunday walk in the
park”. The experience is fluid and uncertain,
like the wilderness itself. Most of us, I am
-Dan Seneres sure, would not have it any other way.
2 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001

3. The following are taken from the notes prepared strenuous trip down that wash and out into
by our trip leaders, edited for space. Wild Horse Canyon. When we got to Hole-
in-the-Wall, we were out of water and real-
Providence Mountains (Segment M): Mojave
ized that we’d lost a camera and the Desert
National Preserve Survivors pennant. We were overheated,
dehydrated, footsore and exhausted. We lay
Jessica Rothhaar, Dan Seneres, Chris Tenney
in the shade and gulped down water from the
September 27 began with a seven-mile pump. Hole in the Wall is a wonderful place,
mindless plod along a paved road and jeep rhyolite cliffs eroded into fantastically
trail, under a relentlessly hot sun. I cursed sculpted holes – but we were too tired to
the Desert Trail. By 10 a.m. the sun was enjoy it. We left a note for Lucy saying that
high overhead and we began to wilt on the the pennant had been lost, then headed for
shadeless plain. Our rest stops became Baker and the cool interior of the Mad Greek.
longer and more frequent, and our walking
spells became shorter and slower. We were
gulping down our water at an alarming
rate. At 1:00 we stopped to rig up tarps for
shade and wait out the heat. It was 95° in
the shade. We lolled around for 3 hours,
listening to the flies buzzing and the tarps
flapping in the breeze. At 4:00 we ven-
tured out again and entered the mountains
via Summit Wash. We camped in the
wash below Summit Pass at mile 11.9.
On September 28, we started early to
beat the heat. We found no water at
Summit Spring, except for a few muddy
teaspoons in the bottom of burro foot-
prints. We got to the crest and hurried
down the other side and up the west side
of Wildhorse Mesa, a pink and white layer
cake of lava with steep sides all the way
around. The top is covered with cactus
and yucca, and would be stunning in the
spring when everything is in bloom. We
saw lots of wolf spider webs, and Chris
managed to coax one hairy brown spider
out of its den by vibrating the web.
We cut directly across the top of the
mesa on a shortcut, since we were low on
water. This ended up being more work,
since the mesa is cut by several deep
gullies. We dropped off the mesa and into
a steep canyon, but found it to be bouldery “No Whiners” - Dan Seneres
and clogged with catclaw. It was a long, hot,
Winter 2001 The SURVIVOR 3

4. Mid Hills (Segment N): Mojave National Cima Dome (Segment O): Mojave
Preserve National Preserve
Lucy DuPertuis, Hedayat Rasti Bob Ellis
We hiked this segment as two day hikes, On the afternoon of September 30, I
with car shuttles both days. stopped at the trailhead near the Cima Store.
I found a coyote melon wrapped in a ban-
On September 29, dana with the message: “The
because it was so hot, we flag is lost. No one from my
drove north to Mid Hills trip is continuing on yours.
campground and hiked Lucy”. Fortunately, I was
south back to Hole-in-the- accompanied by a fellow
Wall, so that we could member of the BLM Desert
travel downhill. The trail District Advisory Council. He
meandered down a narrow- agreed to give me a ride
ing valley to weird and back from dropping my car
haunting Banshee Canyon, off at the end of the segment
complete with rings to pull so I could do the trip alone if
ourselves up. We lunched necessary.
there where we toured a
delightfully cool cave When my other potential
hiker did not appear on the
September 30 began morning of October 1, I
with a steep and rocky started off on a warm but
descent from the juniper partly cloudy day for the
and pinyon pine of the Mid thirty-five-mile journey
Hills Campground to a across Cima Dome and
winding wash. Here the Cinder Cones National
yuccas, chollas and other Landmark to I-15. I carried
plants looked well-watered Hole in the Wall -Lucy DuPertuis four gallons of water, as I
and healthy, probably from had not been able to cache
summer thundershowers. We followed dirt water and did not want to trust the springs
roads to Cima. The roads passed through and possible water tanks. With this water
increasingly thick stands of healthy-looking weight, I could allow myself only one book, so
Joshua trees. We explored an abandoned I carried a Tom Clancy novel, which I enjoyed
ranch called Thomas Place and the shafts of during my long rest stops.
Death Valley Mine. Burro Spring was only
damp sand. The only mammals we saw on After a pleasant but warm morning I was
this segment were jackrabbits with huge ears, atop Cima Dome, having passed through the
jumping out of every other bush. The lonely, now cattle-free lands of the former Kessler
grimy Cima store had a sign saying it would allotment. This area is going to be important
be open at 4:00 pm. It was too hot to wait. I as a baseline in measuring the effects of
tucked a note and my bandana (as a substi- cattle grazing on these hot desert lands. I
tute pennant) in the fence for Bob and began rested under a juniper tree on the flat
the long drive home. toplands and realized I had drunk three
quarters of a gallon of water already that day.
Oh well, it was downhill from here. I passed
up the chance to get water from the cattle-
impacted Deer Spring a couple miles along
4 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001

5. the way and by five o’clock found a campsite
Shadow Mountains (Segment P): Kingston
about twelve miles into the hike. I did not Range BLM Wilderness
need the raingear I had brought in case of a Steve Tabor
thunderstorm. The dark clouds covering the
The route was easy walking and, by the
full moon passed by to the south and all I felt
end of the second day on October 6, I was
were a couple of fat drops.
within 5 1/2 miles of the end of the seg-
October 2 was clear and warm. I passed ment. The segment’s chief water source,
up potential water again in the cattle-ridden Francis Spring, was a badly corrupted
Water Tank #3 and finished the morning mudhole when I visited on Day One. I was
heading down Black Tank Wash, sometimes able to get water, but used it only for cook-
pushing through lush desert willow thickets ing. When we did the reconnaissance, it
in the sandy bottoms between the black had been a fresh pool 20 feet long, ten feet
lava-cliff banks. I rested four hours in the wide and four feet deep. On this trip, it was
heat of the day under a one tenth the extent and
shady lava arch and then I slowly got up to look,
three inches deep.
turned north, up and over the and saw a full-curl bighorn
lava flows. By six the sun sheep bounding away!
was setting and I was high on a
west-facing lava cliff top: Darlington’s View, Valjean-Amargosa (Segment Q): Kingston
hazy now. I watched the sweeping vista Range BLM Wilderness
narrow down to the sparkle of the red Bun Bob Lyon, Bill Roff
Boy thermometer as the light faded. On October 8 Bill and I met and set up
By the morning of October 3 I was down the car shuttle but could not find the relay
to three liters of water. I enjoyed a wonderful bandana. After half an hour we gave up and
hike north along the cliff tops to Halloran headed for the Valjean Hills. We hiked 8
Summit. While resting in the shade of a miles and camped near the westernmost hill.
rock, I heard a scuffle ten feet from me. I Saw a jackrabbit and bats at dusk.
slowly got up to look, and saw a full-curl On October 9 we set out early across
bighorn sheep bounding away! open desert for the old Tonopah & Tidewater
Up here along the cliffs the land had not Railroad grade, following an azimuth of 295
been grazed in recent years. Foot-and-a- as directed by the guidebook. We missed
half-high grasses of several species were the Dumont site by 1/4 to 1/2 mile. In the
the dominant plants in some areas and distance we could see the single wood post
cryptogamic soils were common. Quite a that marks the bend in the railroad. Our route
change from grass-poor Cima Dome. A was too far north and took us into the Sperry
petroglyph marked the route down from the Hills. We corrected by following a wash
cliffs and I had a few swallows left when I got southeast until it took us back to the railroad
to my car. This route is definitely recom- bed. About noon we reached the Amargosa.
mended for future travelers. At this nearly dry end the river was tinted
green and smelled of sulphur. There was
fresher water upstream in the canyon, under
the vegetation, and we filled our water bags.
At the old Sperry siding we found a building
and porch foundation, cona cistern, a trash
dump, and an “Area of Critical Environmental
Winter 2001 The SURVIVOR 5

6. I was waist deep and the bottom of my pack
Concern” sign punctured with bullet holes. was floating. There was no possible way to
After hiking 13 miles and pushing through get up on the surface, and I waded through
thick growth of tamarisk and mesquite, we the muck. My hat blew off. I retrieved it with
camped below a spectacular 350 foot high my walking stick and pasted it back on with
wall with fluted columns. my muddy hands. Sandy hadn’t gone so
October 10 was a slow, muddy hike deep and reached dry ground first. By the
across the grassy river bottom. For the last time I arrived she said that only my eyeballs
two miles, the east wall of the canyon has were visible, but she reminded me that some
several springs and seeps people pay
and two small creeks. It We hadn’t got far when Sandy called hundreds of
is thick with brush, wil- “Mud!” A moment later, dollars to spas
lows, and wild grapes. she was up to her knees in it. for mud facials.
After a six mile hike we We stopped at a
reached the end of our trail about noon. nearby water pool and washed off some of
the goo before continuing. With a bit more
attention to where we walked, this segment
Ibex Hills (Segment R): Ibex BLM Wilderness
of the trail need not have been so hazardous.
and Death Valley NP
Craig Deutsche, Sandy Nancarrow October 13 began with a walk west
Our walk began on October 12 at the through a narrow wash to the crest of the
Amargosa Natural Area just south of Tecopa Sheepshead Mountains. In the early morning
Hot Springs. The first mile or two is along a the temperatures were reasonable and the
road and passes the only store in this some- route was extremely pleasant. We enjoyed
what decrepit town, then passes the hot good views from the crest and then headed
springs for which the town is named. north along the west side of the mountains.
The guidebook says to turn left through There is a moderate amount of up and down,
the parking lot and out onto the old berm of and wonderful views. At about 2:00 p.m., we
the Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad. Although were above Salisbury Pass and it was over
the guidebook suggests that there is some 85 degrees. We rested in the shade until
water and mud along this route, we foolishly 5:00 p.m., when we continued another hour
chose to avoid the grass and walked instead before camping on the edge of the
on the apparently hard and firm ground. Greenwater Valley.
We hadn’t got far when Sandy, who was It was warm on October 14, so we were
ahead of me, called “Mud!” A moment later, walking by 7:00 a.m. It was a two or three
she was up to her knees in it. Then my right hour walk north to reach the Greenwater
leg broke through the crust, and I was in up Valley Road, then a walk along the road to
to my thigh. We thought it couldn’t last long, the car. Afterward, Sandy went back to the
so we struggled ahead to reach firmer hot springs at Tecopa to wash away the last
ground. My walking stick, which I laid flat on of the mud.
the surface, provided no support, but sunk
my arms in up to the elbows.
[Editor’s Note: At this point, the Desert Survivors/
Desert Trail Pennant was returned to the Relay
following Dan Seneres’ solo recovery mission to
Wildhorse Mesa.]
6 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001

7. Black Mountains (Segment S): Death Valley down to my last 3/4 gallon and still had an-
Hall Newbegin
other day and night to go.
It’s one of my favorite Desert Survivor
On October 19 I began my hike in the
rituals - driving all night, stumbling around in
cool morning, well before dawn, in order to
the dark to find a place to sleep, and then
conserve water. The hike down Sheep Can-
waking up in an utterly transformed, beauti-
yon was beautiful, with dramatic views of
ful landscape. I was all alone
Telescope Peak. I dropped
on this trip, so I took some
about 1200’ down a steep
time the morning of October
ridge into the soft, sandy
17 to poke around in the
streambed of Sheep Canyon.
rocks and hills around my
Aside from a few minor
camp, and soak in the dra-
dryfalls, the hiking was pleas-
matic, sunrise-lit landscape
ant and easy. The Canyon
before me. I began to wel-
closes in at several places,
come the freedom the solo
and the sheer cliffs and Utah-
hike would give me. In the
esque erosional features in
afternoon I found myself a
these tighter spots make for
little slice of shade, put my
a dramatic descent.
pack down and snoozed
away. When I woke, it was I reached the bottom by
still a little bit hot, so I just lay 10:00 a.m. and had nothing
there and read for a while. to do until Steve and
On Funeral Peak -Hall Newbegin
Once the cool of the evening Lawrence picked me up the
started to set in, I got up and started walking next morning. So, I decided to find a shady
again. I didn’t knock off 10 miles on the first spot and read my book. However, when I sat
day like I had planned, but I had a wonderful down, I found myself besieged by large,
day. I ended the day with a pasta dinner, aggressive and persistent flies. I would have
watching the sun set over the Black Moun- liked to hike away from the moist, shady area
tains, and enjoying the solitude and silence where they hung out, but I was so low on
all around me. water I couldn’t afford to do anything but sit
there. I became obsessed with trying to kill
I woke on October 18 feeling energized.
the flies, and nearly destroyed my book using
In the morning, I hiked the 9 miles to the high
it as a swatter, when I realized that, no matter
saddle in the Black Mountains overlooking
how many I killed, more would take their
Death Valley. Since I had another day to kill
place. So I consigned myself to the incessant
waiting for Steve and Lawrence to pick me up
buzzing and just lay there, trying to read,
at the end of my hike, I decided to take a little
eyeing my water and wondering how long it
detour off the DT and climb Funeral Peak
would last.
(6384’). The hike was spectacular but hot,
and I burned through my water at an uncom- When the sun started to go down I hiked
fortable rate. I made it to the peak with about to the mouth of the canyon and - Bammm!
a quart of water left. I ate my lunch and read There it was, the wide open, panoramic heart
through the register - two of the seven entries of Death Valley. The lowest point in the U.S.,
(dating back to 1994) were Desert Survivor Badwater, was just north of me and the
groups. By the time I got back to camp, I towering Panamints, with majestic Telescope
realized that I had a water problem. I was peak (11,049’ ) dominating the skyline, were
Winter 2001 The SURVIVOR 7

8. from the valley floor. They began with the
directly in front of me. The sky turned a dark
true, hardcore halophytes (i.e. salt fiends) on
purple as the sun went down. I went to sleep
the valley floor, dominated by atriplexes (“salt
a little thirsty and, in that foggy transitional
bushes,” named for their ability to store
state between consciousness and sleep, I
excess salt in their leaves). Higher, less
imagined that there were glacial streams
saline soil had pure stands of pickleweed.
running out of the Black Mountains, rippling
Finally, leaving the salty valley floor entirely,
right by my sleeping bag.
at the edge of the bajadas we found the
usual Mojavean suspects including creosote
Death Valley (Segment T): Death Valley NP and burrobush. All along the base of the
Hall Newbegin, Steve Tabor, Lawrence Panamints we found thick groves of Honey
Wilson Mesquite, which use their lengthy taproots to
In the morning of October 20, Steve and feed from deep springs. One botanical
Lawrence picked me up, and we raced off to anomaly was the huge stand of cattails in the
a gas station where there were cold root (not dry) dry lake around the old Eagle Borax
beers sitting in a giant barrel of ice - civiliza- Mine.
tion! The car shuttle took six hours, so we We unsuccessfully searched for evidence
didn’t start hiking until 3:30 p.m. of the Bennett-Arcane camp, where stranded
It quickly became apparent that the ‘49-ers spent an unpleasant winter ruing their
valley walking would not be as easy as I had decision to take a “shortcut”. We passed the
imagined. We made our way over an in- hottest part of the day at the lovely Eagle
creasingly thick crust of hard, dried mud with
foot-deep crenellations. We crossed a
couple of perfectly smooth, salt crusted
streamlets of the Amargosa, which con-
trasted beautifully against the fluffy dried
mudscape. Crossing the first streamlet,
though, we sank ankle deep into the wet silt.
After a difficult 3-hour walk across the valley,
we were glad to find a lovely sandy area
next to a mesquite grove for our camp.
On October 21, we headed north, follow-
ing the west edge of the valley at the foot of
the magnificent Panamints and enormous
bajadas. The temperatures got into the mid-
90’s, and it was very humid. We found
ourselves resting every 45 minutes or so,
even in the relative cool of the morning.
We encountered many different environ-
ments along the valley floor: salt crust, wet
mud, sand dunes, great flashflood channels,
arrowweed thickets, and wonderful mes-
quites for shade. We crossed through sev-
eral distinct plant communities, which corre-
sponded to the salinity gradient moving up -Hall Newbegin
8 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001

9. Borax mine site, laying in the shade of some
shadeless, and when we rested we had to sit
mesquite trees next to the cattail bog. We
under our umbrellas. In the intense heat, on
sampled some of the musty, salty water from
a long run, I panicked, and led us full throttle
Tule Spring. The scenery along this seg-
across the rocks to get into the shade.
ment was absolutely gorgeous and the wide
When we got to the shade, I realized that we
open beauty of the valley was extremely
could have stayed on course and followed
memorable.
the “shore” all the way there. It would have
Salt Creek (Segment U): Death Valley NP been ¼ mile longer, but it would have used
Steve Tabor, Lawrence Wilson much less energy. We arrived at camp at
nightfall, tired and sweaty. We’d done 15
After Lawrence and I finished the previ-
miles.
ous segment with Hall Newbegin, it took us
most of the day to set up our next car Next morning, we were down to ¾ of a
shuttle. Finally, at 2:00 p.m. on October 22, gallon of water each. We got up early and
we were back on the salt crust. It was 95 hiked north toward Salt Creek. George’s
degrees. route required a long hike over rocky fans
directly toward Stovepipe Wells. Neither of
At first, we followed George Huxtable’s
us wanted to undergo that ordeal with our
route directly across the pan to the Blackwa-
sore feet. Instead, we hiked partway across
ter fan. But our feet were already blistered
the fan and into a near-barren landscape of
and battered from the previous trip and, after
desert pavement, then down an easy wash
an hour of hard going, I decided to stay off
to the creek. We crossed the creek at the
the crust and instead hike the pebbly “shore-
old gauging station, beneath photogenic
line” at the interface between crusty salt and
cliffs of upturned lakebed. On the east side
rocky fan.
of the creek, we followed an old wagon road
For the rest of the day we hiked the along a marsh of saltgrass, reeds and mes-
easiest ground we could find, traveling from quites. There was good shade when we
mesquite tree to mesquite bush, using them needed it, well-spaced.
for shade. We used nylon umbrellas to keep
At 2:30, we stopped in the shade of some
the sun off our heads. We were aided by
huge mesquites. If we persisted walking in
the late afternoon shadows from the
the heat of the day directly into the sun, we’d
Panamint Range to the west as the sun fell.
run out of water before we got to town. We
We camped in a small mesquite grove and
rested in the shade for two hours until the
were treated to a spectacular coyote chorus
sun dropped behind some clouds. An hour
from close range.
before sunset, we began the last four miles
On October 23 we were on the trail right to Stovepipe. We started by winding along
after sunrise. We continued around the salt the tops of the high Death Valley Dunes, but
pan on pebbly ground, stopping every 45 that was tiring, so we soon dropped down to
minutes or so to rest at mesquites. We saw the foredunes, where we had easier going.
several foxholes, and a large marsh hawk We reached the ranger station at 7:00 p.m.,
sailed by as we approached Blackwater fan. with a last pint of water each. We celebrated
It was a tough day rounding the rocky our ordeal with a big meal at the lodge and a
Blackwater fan, threading between rocks beer at the saloon.
brought down by flashfloods and four-foot-
high salt crust and lake mud remnants from
ancient Lake Manly. Part of our route was
continued on page 20
Winter 2001 The SURVIVOR 9

10. Peril in the Panamints:
The McMullen Incident
by Dave McMullen
Anyone queer for maps would under- east via a hard rocky road from Death Valley
stand. Anyone interested in the history of proper, followed by a short hike along the
miners and Native Americans would also canyon bottom.
understand. To follow their old footpaths Coming in that way in early May of 2000, I
over the crest of the Panamint Mountains easily found the ranch site, but was thwarted
had been my quest since I first saw the by burro trails etched along the canyon’s
single dashed line marked on the 1952 walls in my efforts to find the southwest leg .
USGS Telescope Peak 15 minute map. Following several of them led me to dead
Reading histories of their lives and times ends high up on bare ridges pockmarked
heightened the sense of adventure I felt with dust wallows and dried burro dung. That
whenever I reviewed that map, or passed by portion of the route from the ranch to an
that mountain range. Meeting descendants unnamed pass near Porter Peak remained a
of the Timbisha and Panamint Shoshone mystery to me.
also piqued my curiosity about the desert
places they once called home. Wanting to preview the route in prepara-
tion for a DS backpack, I headed out solo in
One place in particular, with its promise another attempt to locate the old route and
of flowing water, fruit trees and grapevines, mark its path for my return in October. How-
walls of stone, and terraces drew my atten- ever, this time I would do it from the upper
tion more than the others: Hungry Bill’s end via Pleasant Canyon.
Ranch. Named for a local Native American,
he, his family, and other tribe members had Using a borrowed 4WD truck I drove up
used the site to grow fruits and vegetables. early on Saturday, September 1st. The way
They called it Puaitungani, or “mouse cave.” in was gnarly at the lower end where the
Miners apparently moved in ahead of them road follows a water course - very rocky,
circa 1872 and commandeered its resources steep, and slippery. Riparian vegetation
for their own agriculture. The canyon cra- crowded in on both sides as well, obscuring
dling this site now bears the last name of my view. It took me well over an hour to
one of these men, Albert Johnson. The traverse the nine miles from Ballarat on the
mines quickly went bust, and the miners floor of Panamint Valley (1200’) to where I
moved on. Hungry Bill returned and contin- parked just below the Cooper Mine (6400’).
ued to use the area for many years after- After breakfast I walked up the mine’s
ward. access road, spent some time inspecting
Tales from other hikers revealed that a several adits (mine entrances) and the inter-
route from the west up Surprise Canyon and esting geology, and then located a USGS
over Panamint Pass to the ranch was well benchmark as a point of reference on the
established and well traveled. However, no map. Once oriented, I struck off for the trail,
information was forthcoming about a south- but it wasn’t immediately noticeable where I
western trending route up toward Porter expected it to be. I continued in the direction
Peak. The ranch is also accessible from the indicated on the map and found only scree,
10 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001

11. talus, and a few cairns strewn out among burned to the ground only two years ago had
brush and trees on a steep slope. Neverthe- many new healthy branches up to two feet
less I made it to where the supposed trail high.
crosses over a saddle into Happy Canyon to After a brief lunch and signing the register,
the north. I headed off to resume my trail search, hiking
From there I had a view of all of upper northward along the spine of the mountains to
Pleasant Canyon and almost the whole of the unnamed pass. The fire had burned along
upper Happy Canyon. The devastation this ridge line as well, coursing down the
caused by a forest fire that scorched the area eastern side of the mountains to the lower
in 1999 was plainly visible. The entire bowl- timberline. The entire face of the south fork of
shaped area of upper Happy Johnson Canyon was burned
Canyon is bare, save for the Every step was clear. An eerie landscape to
blackened skeletons of pinion brutal...It took me be in. At the pass I looked
and juniper trees, their dark over an hour to finish again for the route. With
nude trunks and branches that last bit of trail. some difficulty and traipsing
pointing skyward. The burn back and forth I spotted the
swept upward to the ridge between Happy trail. Old, faded, and not maintained, it was a
and Pleasant canyons where I was standing, barely visible line along the contour of the
but didn’t cross over. Pleasant Canyon main- hillside. I saw no prints of any kind on it and
tains its cover of arid verdancy. followed it downslope.
Along the ridge among the ebon trees At an open area covered with scree the
were patches of wildflowers, their bright trail gave out, or perhaps my eyes weren’t
colors offering stark contrast to the charcoal sensitive enough to follow it. Picking my way
and ashen landscape. I saw scattered stands as best I could along this jumble of loose
of yellow Nevada Viguiera (Viguiera multiflora rocks and gravel, I tried to stay true to the
nevadensis), dense clusters of Prickly Pop- map’s representation of the route. Soon a
pies (Argemone intermedia corymbosa) with rough rock outcrop impeded my way and I
their white crepelike petals dancing in the was forced to ski down the loose rocks in an
breeze, Desert Tobacco (Nicotiana attempt to get around it. There, several hun-
trigonophylla) with its long tubular creamy dred feet below, the trail was visible again,
white flowers, and dense round clumps of a and for the next several miles it was relatively
pink and yellow mimulus with pale blue green easy to follow.
leaves that were hairy and sticky. As my pace quickened I imagined how
Following the ridge eastward and keeping difficult it would have been to see the route
the burned area on my left, I soon came upon before the fire cleared the way. Blackened
the open quartz dome of Porter Peak at tree trunks and the charcoaled stumps of
9101’. Flames had licked the top, singeing bushes were standing smack dab in the
shrubs and charring rocks. Amazingly, bright middle of the trail, and dead branches
green Mountain Joint Firs (Ephedra viridis) crowded in from both sides. The little trodden
Winter 2001 The SURVIVOR 11

12. Peril in the Panamints, continued...
path was visible as it passed under these map. Somewhere on this little rise was once
branches for more than 20 feet in some a path down to the next wash, then around
places. At first I tried stepping off the trail the opposite side straight into the ranch. For
and walking around these thickets, but found the life of me, I could not find it. Walking
the slope too steep and loose for safety, and back and forth across the area several times,
opted instead to bust my way through. I became frustrated. Looking across the
Those following in my footsteps will have an wash I could clearly see a well-trodden path
easier go at it. heading in the right direction. Another burro
The trail so far had followed a roughly trail perhaps? In the waning light I saw no
northeast line along the eastern slope of the other, and elected to make my way into the
mountains, dropping easily as it went along. wash and to that path.
This changed abruptly at 6400’ where the It’s 120 feet from the top of the rise to the
route began a 1000' plunge straight down a bottom of the wash. I saw only two ways
soft drainage channel toward the bottom of down. A loose dirt and gravel slope filled with
the canyon. The map shows only a few thorny brush that would put me in a thicket
switchbacks near the top. Here the trail once in the wash proper, or a steep rocky
again vanished from my view. face with considerable exposure to fall haz-
I took a short break for water and ards that put me right on the path. Back and
snacks, then began a swift descent, being forth I paced, examining each as best I could
mindful the trail is supposed to leave the from above. Much to my later regret, I chose
drainage before hitting the bottom of the second option.
Johnson Canyon and cross over a rise to the Making my way down the rocks was easy
next drainage north. I found no trace of the at first, sidestepping this way and that, and
trail anywhere along this downward section, sometimes doubling back a few paces to find
the terrain being very steep and tracks easily a shorter stretch for my tired legs. I had to
washed away. use my hands a few times as well, to brace
Near the lower tree line a trail of sorts my body and control my weight as I swung
became visible again. But it is confused with around points of rock or leaned into a step-
many crisscrossing burro or game trails. I off toward the next foothold. About two thirds
again tried to stay true to the map’s course, of the way down I found myself having to
and soon came out on top of the rise be- choose between several undesirable direc-
tween the two channels. There the trail tions. I paused there a moment, grumbling
seemed to vanish once more. I rested again, inwardly about how impossible it would be
drinking water and eating snacks, staying for for me to lead folks up this way. In that
a good twenty minutes, lying on my back, moment the choice was made for me.
with legs elevated and resting on my pack. The rock I was standing on, about the size
Realizing sunset was rapidly approach- of a dining room chair, began to roll out from
ing, I put away my gear, and consulted the under me. I quickly grabbed another rock
12 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001

13. with my right hand, but it too let go. Exple- and putting on my head lamp, I tried to hoist
tives issuing forth, I crashed hard on the up my pack. It was then I discovered that
ground below, then tumbled further down during the fall one of the shoulder straps had
the slope toward the bottom. As if in slow torn away from an anchor point. I cinched it
motion I can recall my attempts to avoid all up as best I could and hobbled off into the
the rocks falling with me. Twisting and night.
turning to keep an eye on them, yet trying
Every step was brutal. The ground was
to watch where I was falling, we somehow
uneven, and loose rocks I’d have disre-
managed to avoid each other.
garded before suddenly became obstacles
When I came to a stop against a small needing thoughtful negotiation. Small rises
bush, I curled up, covered my head and became barricades I had to figure out a way
listened for the dirt, gravel, and rocks to around or over. It took me over an hour to
halt as well. They soon did, and I began to finish that last bit of trail.
assess my condition. Taking off my pack, I
A full moon was rising and begining to
stretched out as best I could and elevated
flood the canyon in soft light. In its beams
my legs. I stayed there for a few minutes
the ranch site with its old stone walls was a
letting my heart rate and breathing slow
welcome view. I halted just above it and
down. Soon I felt a throbbing pain in my left
quietly asked the Timbisha permission to
ankle. Still on the slope, and not able to
stay there for as long as I needed. Without
fully stretch out, I decided to scoot down on
further ado, I climbed down and over a break
my behind to the bottom of the wash.
in the wall, grabbed up a dead branch for
Luckily this was easily accomplished support and thrashed my way through the
across loose sand and small rocks. Once brush to where I hoped the flowing water
there I reassessed my situation. I had would be.
about one pint of water left, a very sore
As I approached, a burro snorted through
ankle I couldn’t stand on, darkness was
the darkness. “To hell with you,” I replied, “I
falling fast, there was little room to lie
need the water now.” I hardly noticed the
down, I was in the bottom of a wash, and
retreating sound of its hoofs as I pressed
there was approximately 1/4 to 1/2 mile
forward. Sure enough, in the location I’d
between me and Hungry Bill’s. I knew there
seen over a year ago, beneath overhanging
was water at the ranch. All the reports I’d
fig trees and grape vines was a steadily
read or heard indicated there was a peren-
flowing stream about three inches deep and
nial stream flowing there. Also, I knew there
two feet wide.
was plenty of open ground to camp on, with
trees for shelter from the sun. Painfully stepping through the tangle of
branches, I made my way to the creek’s
I decided to not let my adrenaline edge
edge, took the boot and sock off the throb-
fade and to make my way hastily toward
bing joint and plunged it into the cool water.
the ranch. After popping some ibuprofen
Damn, that felt good. I lay back on the moist
Winter 2001 The SURVIVOR 13

14. Peril in the Panamints, continued...
earth and breathed a sigh of relief. For some instant calm and gave me a sense of rever-
time I simply lay there letting my foot chill in ence for the place.
the water. Then I got out my water filter and The bottle filled slowly, but when it was
began refilling my empty jug. full I packed it and the filter away and pre-
This gave me time to meditate on my pared to find a place to sleep. In the process
situation. How in the hell did I manage to my support pole shattered. It happened, of
screw up my ankle? How bad was the in- course, just when I needed it most. Losing
jury? Luckily, nothing else was bothering me my balance, I leaned fully on it and quickly
save for scrapes on my hands, arms, chest, found myself face to face with the dirt floor of
and legs. Would I be able to walk out tomor- Hungry Bill’s ranch. I laugh about it now, but
row? The next day? There would be plenty believe me, there was plenty of cursing going
of water for me here if I had to stay. If I didn’t on just then. Out loud. (My apologies to the
return home Monday night, when would a Timbisha.) When that happened, I just
search and rescue mission likely be initi- plopped down right there adjacent to one of
ated? Thankfully I’d left an itinerary with my the many surviving fig trees. Not as level as
wife so if someone had to come looking for I’d like, but it would have to do, at least for
me they’d know where to look. How much one night. Pulling out my tarp, pad and bag, I
food did I bring? All these thoughts and stuffed the rest of my gear back in the pack
many more I reviewed over and over again, and used it to elevate my ankle, then climbed
but none as much as concern over the into the bag and tried to doze off.
ankle.
Soon, however, bats began flying around To be continued…
me, snatching up bugs attracted by the
headlamp I’d hung on a branch above. I’ve
only been that close to a flying bat once
many years ago in an old mine shaft. Here,
two or three were harvesting dinner in mid
air right before my eyes, seemingly oblivious
to my presence, except they were very
careful to avoid hitting me. I could hear their
wingbeats and the air rushing across their
bodies as they glided by my head. One flew
so close to my face I could feel the air cur-
rents as it passed by. Several times I
watched as one or two sipped from the
stream right next to my foot while in flight.
This impromptu aerial ballet brought me
14 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001

15. 15 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001
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this face in several places directly across
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Exploratory drilling would cut roads into
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ridgecrest
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natural aesthetic resource.
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www.ca.blm.gov/
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scape, a colossal viewscape, a precious
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Fax: (760) 384-5499 the distance. This is an immense land-
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Telephone: (760) 384-5400 Panamint Dunes, miles and miles away in
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opens northward, culminating at the
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Ridgecrest, CA 93555
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the Panamints to the right, and the valley
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300 S. Richmond Road
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crest. Here the Argus Range is to the left,
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BLM, Ridgecrest Field Office
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canyon after canyon plunging down from the
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at the pass the range rises ahead, wrinkled
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Hector Villalobos, Field Manager
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and Trona north over the Slate Range. Just
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counter the valley driving from Ridgecrest
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Write, fax or phone:
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Death Valley visitors are awed as they en-
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than nine thousand feet in a few miles. Most
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tion Environmental Assessment. 1800' Panamint dry lake at its foot. More
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Valley National Park tops the range with the
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about the Briggs Mine Explora-
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thousand foot Telescope Peak in Death
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involved. Contact the BLM
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vast grandeur of Panamint Valley. Eleven
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Now is the time to get
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Few landscapes in California have the
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ACT NOW
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178.
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from the Slate Range Crossing on Highway
marked face of the Panamints in full view
which will permanently scar the now-un-
and defended.
ing activity would create roads and drill pads
have to be loudly defined miles as far as Pleasant Canyon. The drill-
The value of a view will now wants to expand northward several
grandeur of Panamint Valley.
repeated over and over again. California have the vast
be loudly defined, defended, and that value
be heard. The value of a view will have to Few landscapes in
short-lived mine. A large outcry will have to
valued more than the potential return of a gold mine in the southern Panamint Valley,
views as something which would ever be Briggs Mine, operating a heap leach open pit
The BLM generally does not rate dramatic tains southwest of Telescope Peak. The
gold mine scars for the rest of our lifetimes. exploratory drilling in the Panamint Moun-
be confronted with the damage of senseless prepared for an application to do extensive
from the Slate Range pass. Visitors would An environmental assessment is being
By Bob Ellis
BRIGGS GOLD MINE WANTS TO EXPAND AGAIN
PANAMINT VALLEY LANDSCAPE THREATENED

16. Crunch Time in the Mojave...
continued from page 1
“We need to tell the story of the tortoise.”
demanding necessary recovery measures hike and want to have a chance to see some
under this administration. We continue to wildlife, not motorized thrill seekers.
oppose the expansion of Fort Irwin as taking SUV people are our allies. They are not
desert tortoise lands for unnecessary tank represented on BLM Advisory panels, they
training. are not an organized “partner” in desert
We also hate to see the desert being management; but they are a growing group
managed for the benefit of only one species, interested in a peaceful desert. It’s in our
even if the measures taken for that species interest to find ways to engage them.
benefit many others as
ACT NOW
well. Finally, we’re
starting to see some Educate yourself and
backlash as the OHV your friends about the
folks get more orga- the threats facing the
nized and as some Desert Tortoise.
deliberately violate Useful web sites:
closure areas. Desert Tortoise Pre-
So what can we serve Committee,
do? We need to tell www.tortoise-
the story of the tor- tracks.org
toise. We need to let Center for Biological
our urban friends with -Janet Johnson Diversity,
SUVs know that there www.sw-center.org/
is a problem out there swcbd/goldenstate/
in the desert. The BLM cdca
must start to hear from average people who NEMO: Northern and Eastern Mojave -
are concerned. People who go to the desert area north of I-40 and east of Baker to the
for peace and quiet, not vehicular noise and Colorado River. Comments closed on draft
dust. People who want to take back-road plan 11/1/01 - Final EIR early 2002.
drives in their SUVs and see untrammeled NECO: Northern and Eastern Colorado --
landscapes, not eroded “play” routes and area south of I-40 and east of Joshua Tree
the denuded areas surrounding watering Park to theColorado River. Comments
troughs for exotic species. People who closed on draft plan 11/1/01 - Final EIR early
want to occasionally camp away from an 2002.
organized campground, not a staging area WEMO: West Mojave - area west of Baker
blasted by those emitting their “piss and and northwest of Joshua Tree to Palmdale
vinegar.” People who drive out for a day and Ridgecrest. No draft out yet, maybe in a
year.
16 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001

17. 17 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001
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2000 Survivor.
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a Record of Decision will be issued. Unless
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on the Cadiz project, see the Spring
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Once the protests are “resolved” by the BLM,
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board/bio01.html. For more information
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and procedural deficiencies in the Final EIR.
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to www.mwd.dst.ca.us/mwdh2o/pages/
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age which addresses many environmental
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list of MWD Board members by city, go
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This protest is a fairly comprehensive pack-
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sentatives on the MWD. For a complete
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the Western Environmental Law Center.
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consider sending a letter to your repre-
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participant in a multi-group protest filed by
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If you live in Southern California, please
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9876543212109876543210987654321098765432121098765432109876543210987654321
Desert Survivors also signed on as a
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ACT NOW
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powerline.
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proposed 35 mile long five-story electric
continue to do so. Stay tuned. gas for powering the wells, rather than the
ing this project from the inception and will of an alternative which used nearby natural
resolved. Desert Survivors has been oppos- of impact. In addition we protested the lack
mental questions about this proposal are not choose the cheapest alternative, regardless
result in a lawsuit if the very real environ- and cultural sites and actually was set up to
It is quite possible that this project will which improperly valued historic landscapes
water than they are paying now. scheme used to rank alternative routes,
rate payers more than twice as much for Protection Plan. We also protested the
which will cost the southern California water mandated by the 1980 California Desert
business decision to get involved in a project dors and existing disturbed right-of-ways as
of the Cadiz Project. We feel that it is a bad routes which would use existing utility corri-
tan Water District (MWD) from voting in favor did not fully analyze reasonable alternative
the members of the Board of the Metropoli- Desert Survivors protested that the EIR
The next step will be an effort to dissuade road, and five story powerline.
this. desert lands with a pipeline, maintenance
an existing utility corridor for facilities like project would disturb 12 miles of pristine
an exemption from the requirement to use ton. The BLM’s preferred alternative for this
1980 Desert Plan to allow the Cadiz Project EIR with the BLM headquarters in Washing-
in the BLM approving an amendment in the a formal protest of the Cadiz Project Final
our protests are successful, this would result On November 5th, Desert Survivors filed
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ing the Mojave ecosystem is not fully understood.
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would be 10-15 times less than claimed by Cadiz. The role of groundwater in support-
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dino County reviewed the proposal and found that recharge rates for the aquifers
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from beneath the Mojave north of Joshua Tree National Park. USGS and San Bernar-
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The Cadiz Project proposes to mine up to two million acre feet of ancient groundwater
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Background
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2
By Bob Ellis
FINAL EIR
DESERT SURVIVORS FILES PROTEST ON CADIZ PROJECT

18. Issues Watch – December 2001
By Janet Johnson
Military: Fort Irwin
On October 16th, the Department of De- cies and wilderness areas. Members of
fense posted a Notice of Intent to Prepare a Congress, including Senators Dianne
Supplemental Draft EIS (DEIS) for the Fort Feinstein and Barbara Boxer, and Represen-
Irwin expansion. The DEIS is expected to be tative Barbara Lee, were receptive to our
ready by December 2002. Written comments concerns and also raised concerns of their
were being accepted until December 29th. own. Representative Susan Davis (D-CA),
More public comments will be solicited after along with eleven other members of the
the DEIS is released. House, sent a letter to those members of
Significant issues include impacts to two Congress who will be part of the conference
listed endangered species: the desert tor- for the Defense Authorization legislation. The
toise and the Lane Mountain milkvetch. letter expressed their desire to protect desert
Additional concerns have been raised over wildlife and its critical habitat as well as
the military’s proposed expansion into parts potential wilderness areas, while meeting the
of the Silurian and Superior Valleys, as well needs of specific types of military training.
as impacts to air quality, Military withdrawal of public land will
noise (aircraft/ continue to be an issue to monitor. Even
range firing), soil before the events of September 11th, a move-
erosion, water ment was underway within the Defense
quality, and Department to ask Congress to rewrite the
cultural re- Endangered Species Act and other laws to
sources. The give the military greater freedom to train and
-Janet Johnson DEIS will consider conduct exercises in areas where there are
new alternatives threatened or endangered species. The
consisting of various configurations of land to military would like the Secretary of Defense
the east, west and south of the existing to be able t o grant exemptions “for reasons
boundaries and also utilizing land within Fort of military readiness.” Military officials are
Irwin boundaries that is currently off limits to said to be frustrated by growing friction be-
mechanized training. A no action alternative tween these protections and training exer-
(continue operations with existing ranges and cises on California’s military bases – includ-
facilities) will also be evaluated. ing Fort Irwin.
Desert Survivors, in coalition with Mining
thirteen other conservation groups, sent a Of grave concern is the Interior
letter to members of the Senate and House Department’s recent reversal on the pro-
Armed Services Committees voicing our posed Glamis Imperial Mine in Imperial
concerns regarding the Defense Authoriza- County. The proposal would put an open-pit,
tion legislation. The coalition stated its oppo- cyanide heap leach gold mine on 1,571 acres
sition to the Fort Irwin expansion as pro- of BLM land near Indian cultural and religious
posed, citing the threat to endangered spe- sites. Under Clinton-era mining regulations,
18 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001

19. 19 The SURVIVOR Winter 2001
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This is a step that the previous superinten-
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to close the Eureka Dunes to sandboarding.
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Schmidt Lane, El Cerrito, CA 94530.
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Center for Biological Diversity that he intends
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vided via email or hard copy to: 6710
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Death Valley National Park, has informed the
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* Photos and artwork may be pro-
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JT Reynolds, new superintendent of
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09876543212109876543210987654321098765432121098765432109876543210987654321
Jessica@RothhaarCom.com.
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Sandboarding
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09876543212109876543210987654321098765432121098765432109876543210987654321
via email to:
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file suit against the National Park Service.
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* Please provide written materials
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09876543212109876543210987654321098765432121098765432109876543210987654321
judge rules that they have standing, they will
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Rothhaar, Editor.
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ruling giving them standing to sue. If the
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ports, letters and poems to Jessica
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hold as project opponents wait for a legal
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artwork, photographs, news, trip re-
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adjacent to Joshua Tree National Park, is on
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website, please send your articles,
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Mountain, covering 2,300 acres directly
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or ideas to The SURVIVOR or the
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The proposed giant landfill at Eagle
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desert-related content, design elements
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09876543212109876543210987654321098765432121098765432109876543210987654321
Landfill
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09876543212109876543210987654321098765432121098765432109876543210987654321
If you are interested in contributing
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Mojave for the threatened desert tortoise.
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(www.desert-survivors.org).
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500,000 acres of High Desert habitat in the
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the Survivor and the DS website
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ings and Appeals reinstated a grazing ban on
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content -- articles and illustrations -- for
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Department of the Interior’s Office of Hear-
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We need more members to provide
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On November 29th, the director of the
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You! Grazing
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Desert Survivors Needs
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and become private land.
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full patent, the land will leave park ownership
Preserve. If the Interior Department issues a 31.
Cinder Mine inside the Mojave National redesigned and should be online by January
of mining claims associated with the Cima the Desert Survivors website, which is being
halt the patenting of 672.5 acres for expanded issues coverage on
the Department of the Interior to California Academy of Sciences StevTabor@aol.com. Watch also
-Gerald and Buff Corsi,
Project has filed a protest with Shining Milkvetch Tabor at 510-769-1706 or
The Western Mining Action mailing list, please contact Steve
the proposed gold mine. be placed on the Issues Update
tration. This action could revive receive them. If you would like to
overturned by the Bush adminis- distributed to members wishing to
make that decision has now been updates will still be prepared and
mine. The Secretary’s authority to ceased to meet. Monthly issues
irreparably harmed by opening the The monthly Issues Group has
to the Quechan Tribe would be Issues Group
proposal, stating that sites sacred
(shining milk vetch).
bitt used this power to block the
Astragalus lentiginosus var micans
the environment. Secretary Bab-
grass) as well as the threatened
lasting harm to communities and
alexandrae (Eureka Valley dune
land where they could cause
to the endangered Swallenia
prohibit new mine sites on federal
are in designated wilderness and are home
the Interior Secretary had the authority to
dent repeatedly refused to take. The dunes