Companion Planting: A Complete Guide to Growing Healthy Plants

Companion
Planting
– A Complete Guide to Growing Healthy Plants

by Julie Villani

Companion Planting – A Complete Guide to Growing Healthy Plants 1
Copyright © 2008 Urban Assets Pty. Ltd., All Rights Reserved

This book is dedicated to all the ancestral lovers
of gardening who have contributed to the
collective knowledge that is
Companion Planting

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Contents

Cover Page 1

Legal Information Page 2

Introduction Page 4

Fruits Page 6

Herbs Page 10

Vegetables Page 26

Layout guide Page 37

Layout examples Page 38

Other combinations Page 39

How much do I plant? Page 41


Introduction

Welcome to your complete guide to growing Companion Plants. This guide
is set out into three user-friendly sections so that you can quickly and easily
find what you are looking for.
The main sections are Fruits, Herbs and Vegetables. At the end of this e-
book you will find a layout guide and examples along with a summary of good
plant combinations and how much to plant.

Companion planting has been practiced by generations of gardeners
throughout the ages. Over this time gardeners noticed that some plants
performed well next to certain plants and poorly close to others. Most
gardeners not only love to share information, but for centuries it was a matter
of survival, so their knowledge has been handed down through gardening folk
lore and tradition.

Allelopathy (companion planting) is all about determining which plants grow
best together, and just as importantly, those which don’t like each other.
Experimentation and accidental combinations have shown that certain plants
deter specific pests and weeds on the land close to them. Mixed plantings
help keep pests and predators in balance. The greater the variety of herbs
used amongst food crops, the less problems with insects.

If you take a look around your own garden you might see companion
planting happening without you even knowing it. The knowledge we have
today has come mostly through accidents – astute gardeners recognised that
several plants grew exceptionally well together; or that certain plants disliked
being with their neighbours, with disappointing results.
Good record keeping and the sharing of information is how today’s insights
into companion planting have developed.


What makes a plant a good companion?

Some plants are good companions because one is a tall and robust
plant which protects a shade-loving, fragile plant.

Some plants have long roots which break up the soil for their
companions, giving them more room for their roots to spread and grow.

Some plants provide particular nutrients in the soil that a companion
needs.

Some plants repel insects that attack their companions.

Some plants even self-sacrifice by attracting insects to themselves and
away from their companions.

Others simply grow well together and we don’t really know why.

Now that many
gardeners are moving
away from chemical
fertilizers, herbicides
and pesticides we can
again embrace the
organic solutions and
wisdom of our
gardening ancestors to
create healthy, balanced
nutritious food gardens.


Fruits
APPLE (Malus pumila): Planting nasturtiums under apple trees will help to
repel aphids. Planting clumps of chives or onions close to the trunk can
deter apple scab. Growing grass under your apple tree may suppress the
tree’s growth. Apple trees are not self-pollinating. They must have a
compatible tree of a different variety planted nearby. Choose a variety
which flowers at the same time to ensure good cross-pollination.

Good Companions: Nasturtium; Onion
Bad Companions: Potatoes

BLACKBERRY (Rubus fruticosus): Blackberry is a very vigorous and
aggressive plant. In some states of Australia it has become such a problem
that it is a declared noxious weed.

Good Companions: Tansy
Bad Companions: Raspberries

CITRUS (Citrus): Citrus trees are shallow-rooted evergreen trees. They do
not like to compete with other plants, particularly grasses.

Good Companions: Coffee; Pepper
Bad Companions: Grass

FIG (Ficus carica): Give a lot of consideration when planting figs as some
grow to great heights and most have vigorous, invasive root systems.

Good Companions: none known
Bad Companions: Rue


FRUIT TREES: Plant garlic and onions near stone fruit trees as they
contain powerful anti-bacterial agents which will help destroy diseases that
damage stone fruits.
Other good companion plants for most fruit trees are chives, nasturtiums
and horseradish (keep horseradish contained).

Good Companions: Chives; Garlic; Horseradish; Nasturtiums; Onions

GRAPES (Vitus vinifera):
Planting Hyssop near grape vines will increase the grape yields.

Good Companions: Alfalfa; Geraniums; Hyssop; Mulberry: Oregano
Bad Companions: Cabbage; Radish

MELONS (Cucumis melo): This genus includes most of the melons (except
watermelon, which is Citrullus), scrambling vines with large, lobed leaves.
Do not rotate with squash or cucumber as they all belong to the same
family. Do not grow melons near potatoes.

Good Companions: Corn; Peanut; Sunflower
Bad Companions: Potato

MULBERRY (Morus nigra): Grape vines trained to grow on mulberry trees
seem to produce bumper crops of grapes, free from disease. This makes
the task of picking them a little more difficult though.

Good Companions: Grapes
Bad Companions: none known


PEACHES (Prunus persica): Garlic planted next to the trunk of your peach
tree will protect it from borers. Feed your tree with nitrogen rich compost if
it has peach leaf curl.
Tansy planted around the tree will help repel fruit fly. Never plant a young
peach tree where an old one has grown as the soil under peach trees is
toxic to peach saplings.

Good Companions: Asparagus; Corn; Garlic; Grape; Onion; Strawberries;
Tansy
Bad Companions: Young peach trees

PEAR (Pyrus communis):

Good Companions: Currant

QUINCES (Cydonia oblonga): Planting garlic around your quince trees will
improve the flavour of the fruit.

Good Companions: Garlic

RASPBERRY (Rubus idaeus): Raspberries and blackberries should not be
grown together. Potatoes may succumb to blight if grown near raspberries.

Good Companions: Tansy
Bad Companions: Blackberry; Potatoes

STRAWBERRY (Fragaria): Strawberries love to grown together with
borage, bush beans, lettuce and spinach. They dislike members of the
Brassica (cabbage) family.


If you want your strawberries to take on the flavour of wild
strawberries, try using a mulch of pine needles.

Good Companions: Borage; Bush beans; Lettuce; Nectarine;
Peach; Pyrethrum; Spinach
Bad Companions: Broccoli; Brussels sprouts; Cabbage;
Cauliflower; Gladioli

TOMATOES (Lycopersicon lycopersicum): Tomatoes like to grow in the
same space year after year. Tomatoes and asparagus are mutually
beneficial.
Tomatoes also like growing near basil, carrots, celery, chives, marigolds,
nasturtiums, onions and parsley. Nettles growing nearby will prevent mould
on tomatoes.
Kohlrabi and fennel both inhibit the growth of tomatoes. Tomatoes produce
a root extraction that inhibits the growth of apricot trees.

Good Companions: Asparagus; Basil; Cabbage; Carrot; Celery; Marigold;
Nasturtium; Nettles; Onion; Parsley; Peas; Sage
Bad Companions: Apricot trees; Fennel; Kohlrabi; Potato


Herbs
ANISE (Pinpinella anisum): Liquorice flavoured herb; a good host for
beneficial wasps which prey on aphids and it is also said to repel aphids.
Anise deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odour. It improves
the vigour of any plants growing near it. Use in ointments to protect against
bug stings and bites.

Good Companions: Beans; Brassicas; Coriander
Bad Companions: Carrot
Uses: Culinary; Household; Medicinal

BASIL (Ocimum basilicum): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and
flavour of both. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel
flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue as they inhibit each other’s
growth.

Good Companions: Apricots; Asparagus; Beans; Cabbage; Parsley;
Tomatoes
Bad Companions: Rue

BAY LEAF (Laurus nobilis): A fresh bay leaf in each storage container of
beans, rice or grains will deter weevils and moths. The tree itself is rarely
attacked by pests or disease, so plants situated nearby will gain some
protection from it.

Uses: Craft; Culinary; Household; Medicinal


BORAGE (Borago officinalis): Companion plant for tomatoes, squash and
strawberries. Borage deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. It is
one of the best bee and wasp attracting plants.
Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile.
Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to by increasing resistance
to pests and disease.
After you have planted this annual once it will self-seed.

Good Companions: Kohlrabi; Squash; Strawberries; Tomatoes
Uses: Cosmetic; Culinary; Medicinal

CARAWAY (Carum carvi): Good for loosening compacted soil with its
deep roots, so it’s good to grow near shallow-rooted plants. It can be tricky
to establish. The flowers attract a number of beneficial insects.

Good Companions: Peas
Bad Companions: Fennel
Uses: Craft; Culinary; Medicinal

CATNIP/CATMINT (Nepeta cataria): Deters flea beetles, aphids, chewing
beetles, darkling beetles, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and
weevils.
Cats really love to sniff and rub against this herb. It also attracts bees and
wasps.

Good Companions: Potato, Squash – most vegetables
Uses: Cosmetic; Medicinal


CHAMOMILE (Chamaemelum nobile): Grown as an annual. Improves the
flavour of cabbages, cucumbers and onions.
It accumulates calcium, potassium and sulphur, later returning them to the
soil. Increases essential oil production in nearby herbs.
It is host to hoverflies and beneficial wasps. Leave some flowers unpicked
and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low
growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like full
sun.
Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you grow
in the garden.

Good Companions: Cabbage; Cucumber; Mint; Onion
Uses: Cosmetic; Craft; Household; Medicinal

CHERVIL (Anthriscus cerefolium): Carrots and chervil both grow well and
taste good together. Companion to radishes for improved growth and
hotter flavour. Keeps aphids off lettuce.
Chervil also grows well with dill as it needs the shade provided by the taller
plant. It attracts hoverflies and beneficial wasps.

Good Companions: Carrots; Dill; Radishes

CHIVES (Allium schoenoprasum): Considerably improves growth and
flavour of carrots and tomatoes.
Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted
among apple trees it may help prevent scab.
A tea of chives may be sprayed on cucumbers to prevent downy mildew.


Good Companions: Apple trees; Carrots; Grapes; Parsley; Roses;
Tomatoes
Bad Companions: Beans; Peas
Uses: Cosmetic; Culinary

COMFREY (Symphytum X uplandicum): Accumulates calcium,
phosphorous and potassium. Likes damp spots to grow in. Deep roots help
break up heavy soils.
Comfrey leaves are high in nitrogen, so is an excellent activator in your
compost. Comfrey is a traditional medicinal plant. Good trap crop for slugs.

Good Companions: Most vegetable crops
Uses: Cosmetic; Culinary; Household; Medicinal

CORIANDER (Coriandrum sativum): Repels aphids, spider mites, chewing
beetle and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray for spider
mites.
A great partner for anise – grown together both seeds will germinate faster.
The leaves and seeds are used extensively in Asian cooking.
It is a very attractive plant with pretty white flowers. It hinders fennel seed
formation.

Good Companions: Anise; Cabbage; Carrots; Potato;
Bad Companions: Fennel

DANDELION (Taraxacum officinale): The dandelion plant exhales ethylene
gas which restricts the growth of plants near by. It also brings about the
early maturing in the fruiting and flowering of nearby plants, which can be
advantageous.


Dandelions also have the added benefit of having very long roots, bringing
near to the surface minerals – particularly calcium. Grow them near fruit
trees and they will ripen your fruit both quickly and naturally.

Good Companions: Fruit trees

DILL (Anethum graveolens): Improves growth and flavour of cabbage.
Best friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Repels
aphids, squash bug and spider mites to some degree (scatter some good
size dill leaves on plants that are suspect to squash bugs, ie. squash
plants).
Dill goes well with onions and cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn
worm so it would be useful to plant it somewhere away from your tomato
plants. Do not plant near carrots. If planted near fennel they may cross
fertilize.

Good Companions: Cabbage; Cucumbers; Lettuce; Onion
Bad Companions: Carrot; Fennel; Tomato

FENNEL (Foeniculum vulgare): Fennel needs to be grown far from beans,
caraway, kohlrabi, tomato and wormwood. Rub the crushed leaves on your
pets and their bedding to repel fleas. It may cross-fertilize with dill.

Good Companions: Most vegetables
Bad Companions: Beans; Caraway; Dill; Kohlrabi; Tomatoes; Wormwood
Uses: Cosmetic; Craft; Culinary; Medicinal


FEVERFEW (Chrysanthemum parthenium): Feverfew is a pretty perennial
herb that is rarely attacked by insects. Give other plants in the garden the
benefit of its insect-repelling properties.

Good Companions: Most other plants
Uses: Cosmetic; Household; Medicinal

GARLIC (Allium sativum): Plant near roses to repel aphids. Accumulates
sulphur: a naturally occurring fungicide which will help with disease
prevention in the garden.
Has value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots,
snails, and carrot root fly. It is also effective against borers if grown around
fruit trees. It will help to protect peach trees from leaf curl and apple trees
from apple scab.
Concentrated garlic sprays have been observed to repel and kill whiteflies,
aphids and fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8%
concentration! It is safe for use on orchids too.

Good Companions: Carrots; Fruit trees; Roses; Tomato
Bad Companions: Bean; Cabbage; Pea; Strawberries

HOREHOUND (Marrubium Vulgare): Attracts bees and butterflies.

Uses: Medicinal


HORSERADISH (Armoracia rusticana): Plant in containers (use a
bottomless pot to keep it contained) near potatoes to keep away Colorado
potato bugs.
Dig up the horseradish plants each season to prevent spreading. There are
some very effective insect sprays that can be made with the root. Also
repels Blister beetles. Horseradish tea fights monilia in fruit trees.

Good Companions: Fruit Trees; Potato

HYSSOP (Hyssopus officinalis): Companion plant to cabbage as it deters
cabbage moths and flea beetles. It helps increase the yield of grapes when
grown near a vine.
Do not plant near radishes.
Hyssop tea, made by covering the young dried leaves with water, bringing
to the boil and diluting with four parts water, will help control plant diseases
caused by bacteria.

Good Companions: Grape; Cabbage; plants in general
Bad Companions: Radish

LAMIUM or DEAD NETTLE (Lamium album): This will repel potato bugs.
It also improves growth and flavour.

Good Companions: Potatoes; Cereals


LAVENDER (Lavandular): Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering
lavender nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects.
Use dried sprigs of lavender to repel moths. Start plants in winter from
cuttings, setting out in spring.

Uses: Craft; Cosmetic; Culinary; Household; Medicinal

LEMON or BEE BALM (Melissa officinalis): Plant with tomatoes to
improve growth and flavour. It is great bee fodder. Pretty perennial that
tends to get powdery mildew.
Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to deter many
bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work: crush
and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away.

Good Companions: Tomato

LEMON VERBENA (Aloysia triphylla): Deters midges and other flying
insects.


LOVAGE (Levisticum officinale): Improves flavour and health of most
vegetable crops when planted nearby. Good habitat for ground beetles.
Can become a large plant – use one planted as a backdrop. It is similar in
flavour to celery.


Good Companions: Beans; most vegetable crops

MARIGOLD

• French Marigold (Tagetes patula): has roots that exude a
substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity, attracting
nematodes and preventing them from breeding. For nematode control
plant densely.
There have been some studies done that prove this nematode killing
effect lasts for several years. These marigolds also help to deter
whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in
greenhouses for the same purpose. It is also host to the beneficial
hoverflies.

• Mexican Marigold (Tagetes minuta): is the most powerful of the
insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as
bind weed. It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and rabbits. Be
careful as it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans
and cabbage.

Good Companions: Potato; Tomatoes
Bad Companions: Beans; Cabbage
Uses: Cosmetic; Craft; Culinary; Household; Medicinal

MARJORAM (Origanum majorana): As a companion plant Marjoram is an
all-rounder – it improves the flavour of vegetables and herbs. It benefits
any plant it is grown near and is an effective insect repellent. Sweet
marjoram is most commonly grown.


Good Companions: Plants in general; vegetable crops

MINT (Mentha): Mint is an excellent repellent. It deters white cabbage
moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, aphids and improves the health of
cabbage and tomatoes.
Use cuttings as a mulch around members of the Brassica (cabbage)
family. It attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite
attracted to mint plantings.
Be careful where you plant it as mint is an incredibly invasive perennial.
We have found that placing mint (fresh or dried) where mice are a problem
is very effective in keeping them at bay.
In cupboards or wardrobes, dried mint will keep moths away.

Good Companions: Cabbage; Tomatoes
Bad Companions: Parsley

NASTURTIUMS (Tropaeolum majus): Plant as a barrier around tomatoes,
radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters woolly aphids,
whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit
family.
Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does
attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. It tolerates poor soil with
low moisture and no fertilizer. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible
and wonderful in salads!

Good Companions: Apple trees; Broccoli; Cabbage; Cucumber; Melon;
Potatoes; Radish; Squash


PARSLEY (Petroselinum crispum): Plant among and sprinkle on tomatoes,
and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles.
Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps.
Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted
around their base.

Good Companions: Asparagus; Carrots; Chives; Roses;
Tomato
Bad Companions: Mint

PENNYROYAL (Mentha pulegium): Repels fleas and ants. Many people
are now using pennyroyal as an alternative to lawn.
The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your skin will repel chiggers,
flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks. Fresh or dried leaves can be rubbed into
your dog or cat’s fur as a flea repellent.

Good Companions: Broccoli; Brussels sprouts; Cabbage
Uses: Cosmetic; Household; Medicinal

WARNING: Pennyroyal should not be consumed at any time
during pregnancy. It can also be toxic to anyone if used to
excess

POT MARIGOLD (Calendula officinalis): Given a lot of credit as a pest
deterrent. Deters asparagus beetle and tomato hornworms.
Plant freely throughout the garden. Calendula must be a scented variety
for them to work as a companion plant.

Good Companions: Asparagus; Tomato; plants in general


ROSEMARY (Rosmarinus officinalis): Companion plant to cabbage,
beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot
flies. It helps repel mosquitoes.
Use cuttings to place by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies.

Good Companions: Bean; Cabbage; Carrots; Sage
Bad Companions: Potato; Rue

RUE (Ruta graveolens): Deters Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries.
To make it even more effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves
to release the smell. It is an excellent fly repellent.
Some say you should not plant it near cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty
perennial with bluish-grey leaves. Rue can cause skin irritation.

Good Companions: Rose
Bad Companions: Basil; Cabbage; Rosemary; Sage
Uses: Household; Medicinal

SAGE (Salvia officinalis): Use as a companion plant with broccoli,
cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths,
beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers or
rue.
Allowing sage to flower will also attract many beneficial insects and the
flowers are pretty. There are some very striking varieties of sage with
variegated foliage that can be used for their ornamental value as well as
good companion plants.

Good Companions: Broccoli; Cabbage; Carrot; Cauliflower; Marjoram;
Rosemary; Strawberry; Tomato
Bad Companions: Cucumber; Rue


SOUTHERNWOOD (Artemisia abrotanum): Plant with cabbage, and
amongst the garden. Deters cabbage worms. Plant southernwood near
fruit trees to repel fruit fly.
Wonderful lemony scent when bruised or brushed in passing. Roots easily
from cuttings. Does not like fertilizer.
It is a perennial that can get quite bushy. You can cut it back every spring –
it will come back in no time. A delightful plant that is virtually pest free.

Good Companions: Cabbage; Carrot; Fruit trees

STINGING NETTLES (Urtica dioica): The flowers attract bees and many
beneficial insects. Invigorating for plants and improves their disease
resistance.
Nettles also strengthen the growth of tomatoes and increase the essential
oil content in valerian, marjoram, sage and peppermint.
Cut up any nettles you ‘weed’ and cover with water. Let it sit for 3 weeks to
make an excellent liquid fertilizer. Use it to promote plant growth and give
plants more resistant to lack of water and other unhealthy conditions.
The leaves and stems of nettles rot to an ideal humus – so put them on the
compost heap or cut them up and lay them on the soil. Hairs on the nettles'
leaves contain formic acid which "stings" you.

Good Companions: Tomato; herbs for essential oils

SUMMER SAVORY (Satureja): Plant with beans and onions to improve
growth and flavour. Discourages cabbage moths and deters bean beetles.
Honey bees love it.


Good Companions: Beans; Onions
Uses: Culinary; Medicinal

TANSY (Tanecetum vulgare): Plant with fruit trees (to repel borers), roses
and raspberries keeping in mind that it can be invasive and is not the most
attractive of plants.
Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash
bugs, ants and mice. Tie up and hang a bunch of tansy leaves indoors as a
fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch.
Don't be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from almost
any abuse! It is also a helpful addition to the compost pile with its high
potassium content.

Good Companions: Blackberry; Fruit trees; Grapes; Raspberries; Roses

WARNING: You do not want to plant Tansy anywhere that
livestock can feed on it as it is toxic to many animals. Do not let
it go to seed either as it may germinate in livestock fields.

TARRAGON (Artemisia dracunculus): Plant throughout the garden; it is an
all-purpose garden helper – not many pests like this one. Recommended
to enhance the growth and flavour of vegetables.

Good Companions: Plants in general
Uses: Culinary

THYME (Thymus): Attract bees and deters the cabbage worm. Thyme is
easy to grow from seeds or cuttings. Older woody plants should be divided


in spring. It seems to have a beneficial effect on all plants it is situated
near.

Good Companions: Cabbage; plants in general

VALERIAN (Valeriana officinalis): Earthworms love valerian, so this is an
excellent reason to grow it. It stimulates the phosphorous activity in the soil
and helps most vegetables growing nearby.

Good Companions: most vegetable crops
Uses: Medicinal

WORMWOOD (Artemisia): Keeps animals out of the garden- including
mice and other rodents - when planted as a border. An excellent deterrent
to most insects.
A tea made from wormwood will repel cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black
flea beetles and fleas effectively.
It inhibits the growth of plants growing nearby with poisonous secretions,
so is best to be grown alone – with the exception of currant bushes
susceptible to rust disease which wormwood prevents.

Good Companions: Currant bushes
Bad Companions: most plants
Uses: Household; Medicinal

Note: As wormwood actually produces a botanical poison do
not use it directly on food crops. Also, earthworms vacate the
soil where it is grown, so it must not be used in compost.


YARROW (Achillea): Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an
excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the
compost heap really speeds things up.
It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs. It may increase the
essential oil content and aromatic qualities of herbs when planted among
them.
Planted as a border, yarrow will help most vegetables.

Good Companions: Plants in general; Vegetable and Herb crops


Vegetables
ALFALFA (Medicago sativa): It is a legume with very deep roots. Most of
us know it as alfalfa sprouts, but it makes a quite valuable plant in the
garden as it fixes the soil with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium,
phosphorous and potassium.
It can withstand drought with its long taproot and can improve just about
any soil. Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay soil and can even send
its roots through rocks! Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free.
It is excellent as a compost activator.

Good Companions: shallow rooting plants; Fruit trees; Grape vines
Bad Companions: all members of the onion family

ASPARAGUS (Asparagus officinalis): Plant tomatoes near asparagus to
prevent weeds from overgrowing the asparagus bed. Asparagus and
tomatoes have a reciprocal effect on each other – they both thrive when
planted together.
Both basil and parsley also do very well when planted near asparagus, and
tomatoes for that matter.

Good Companions: Basil; Parsley; Tomato
Bad Companions: Onions

BEANS (Phaseolus vulgaris; Vicia faba): All beans enrich the soil with
nitrogen fixed from the air. In general they are good company for carrots,
brassicas, beets, and cucumbers.
Great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot
beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo.


Keep beans away from all members of the Allium family (onions, garlic,
leeks, chives, shallots).

Good Companions: Cabbage; Carrots; Cauliflower; Corn; Cucumbers;
Potatoes (with Broad Beans); Squash; Strawberries (with Bush Beans);
Tomatoes
Bad Companions: Onions; Fennel

BEETROOT (Beta vulgaris): Good for adding minerals to the soil. The
leaves are composed of 25% magnesium. Grow beetroot near kohlrabi,
onions and dwarf beans, but not with runner beans.

Good Companions: Cabbage; Dwarf Beans; Kohlrabi; Lettuce; Onions;
Silverbeet
Bad Companions: Runner beans

BROCCOLI (Brassica oleracea): Broccoli will benefit by being planted
close to aromatic plants such as dill, celery, chamomile, sage, peppermint
and rosemary. Don’t plant it near tomatoes or strawberries.

Good Companions: Beans; Dill; Celery; Chamomile; Onion; Oregano;
Peppermint; Potato; Rosemary; Sage
Bad Companions: Lettuce; Strawberry; Tomato

BRUSSELS SPROUTS (Brassica oleracea): Brussels sprouts grow well
near sage, hyssop, thyme, wormwood, rosemary and potatoes. They
dislike strawberries.

Good Companions: Beans; Celery; Sage; Hyssop; Thyme; Wormwood;
Rosemary; Potatoes; Pennyroyal
Bad Companions: Strawberries


BUCKWHEAT (Fagopyrum esculentum): Accumulates calcium and can be
grown as an excellent cover crop.
It has an extensive and vigorous root system. Good for acid soils. Attracts
hoverflies in droves, which are predators of greenflies and blackflies.


CABBAGE (Brassica oleracea): The white cabbage moth can be
controlled by planting near aromatics such as sage, mint, thyme, hyssop or
wormwood.
Like most brassicas, cabbage dislikes growing near
strawberries and tomatoes, but grows well with beetroot.
Early potatoes and late cabbage work well together.
Potatoes and cabbages help to break up the soil with their deep roots and
help keep the soil free from weeds.

Good Companions: Bean; Beetroot; Celery; Chamomile; Dill; Hyssop; Mint;
Nasturtium; Onion; Oregano; Potato; Sage; Rosemary
Bad Companions: Grape; Strawberry; Tomato

CAPSICUM (Capsicum): Basil and capsicum require similar
growing conditions and grow well together. Capsicum can
be used as a general insect repellent.

Good Companions: Basil

CARROTS (Daucus carota): Onions, leeks, rosemary, sage or wormwood
planted near carrots will repel the carrot fly whose larva often attack the
roots of young carrots.


They also grow well with lettuce, tomatoes, chives and peas. Do not grow
near dill.

Good Companions: Chives; Leeks; Lettuce; Onions; Peas; Rosemary;
Sage; Tomatoes; Wormwood
Bad Companions: Dill

CAULIFLOWER (Brassica oleracea): The white cabbage moth will be
greatly deterred from cauliflowers and cabbages if celery is growing close
by.
Growing strawberries or tomatoes near cauliflowers will inhibit each other’s
growth.

Good Companions: Beans; Beetroot; Celery; Chamomile; Dill; Hyssop;
Mint; Nasturtium; Onion; Oregano; Potato; Radish; Rosemary; Sage;
Tansy
Bad Companions: Strawberries; Tomatoes

CELERIAC (Apium graveolens): Celeriac is closely related to celery, with a
similar taste, but it is the swollen base that is eaten.
It needs rich, friable soil with plenty of potassium. Leeks are a good
companion for celeriac, planted in alternating rows.

Good Companions: Bean; Cabbage; Leek; Onion; Tomato

CELERY (Apium graveolens): Leeks and tomatoes grow
well with celery. Cabbage will also benefit if grown together
with celery.

Good Companions: Bean; Cabbage; Leek; Onion; Tomato


CLOVER (Trifolium): Good nitrogen fixer, with good top growth for a green
manure plant. Deters cabbage root flies.
Attracts ground beetles and parasites of woolly apple aphids.


CORN (Zea mays): Many plants benefit from growing close to corn.
Melons, squash, pumpkins and cucumber benefit from the shade it
provides.
Beans and peas grown in the same plot as corn will replenish the soil with
nitrogen that the corn has used. Potatoes also grow well near corn. Dill
helps to produce healthy corn.

Good Companions: Artichokes; Cucumber; Dill; Lupins; Melons; Potatoes;
Pumpkin; Squash

CUCUMBER (Cucumis sativus): Cucumbers grow best with some shade,
so plant them with tall plants like corn or sunflowers. Cucumbers and
beans planted together will produce healthy plants.
Cucumbers also like to grow with peas, kohlrabi and lettuce. Radishes
protect cucumber from the cucumber beetle.

Good Companions: Bean; Broccoli; Celery; Chinese cabbage; Kohlrabi;
Lettuce; Peas; Radish; Tomato
Bad Companions: Rue; Sage

EGGPLANT / AUBERGINE (Solanum melongena): To repel caterpillars,
sprinkle eggplant with cayenne pepper in the morning while it is still wet
with dew.


Growing beans with eggplant will help keep beetles away. A chilli and
garlic spray makes the leaves less palatable to the flea
beetle, but must be applied regularly.

Good Companions: Beans; Peas; Tarragon; Thyme

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Helianthus tuberosus): They are good
companions to corn. Unfortunately the edible tubers contain very little food
value.

Good Companions: Corn

KOHLRABI (Brassica oleracea, Gonylodes Group cultivar): A member of
the cabbage family, this root vegetable resembles beetroot. It can be eaten
raw or cooked.
It grows well with beetroot and onions. However, it has a harmful effect on
tomatoes and beans have a harmful effect on it.

Good Companions: Beetroot; Onions
Bad Companions: Beans; Capsicum; Tomatoes

LEEKS (Allium porrum): Use leeks near carrots, celeriac, celery and
onions which will improve their growth. Goat and pig manure, both high in
potassium, will increase the yield of both leeks and celery.
Leeks also repel carrot flies.

Good Companions: Carrot; Celeriac; Celery
Bad Companions: Broad beans; Broccoli


LETTUCE (Lactuca sativa): Lettuce grows well with cucumbers,
strawberries and carrots. Growing them near radish makes them
succulent.
Growing lettuce, cabbage and beetroot together will help them all thrive.
To protect your lettuce from bugs, grow a few French Marigolds in the
patch.

Good Companions: Beetroot; Cabbage; Carrots; Clover; Cucumber;
Marigolds; Peas; Radish; Strawberries

LUPINS (Lupinus angustifolius): Lupins are a deep rooting plant that adds
nitrogen and phosphates to the soil. Lupins are mostly grown as a green
manure crop – dig into the soil just as the flower buds form.
They are helpful to the growth of many vegetable crops, particularly corn.

Good Companions: Corn; most vegetable crops

ONIONS (Allium cepa): Grow onions near any member of the cabbage
family, beetroot, lettuce, tomatoes, summer savory and strawberries.
Carrots deter insects from onions and onions deter insects from carrots so
grow them together as much as possible.
The perfume from roses is stronger with onions growing close by.
Onions will also keep apple-scab from apple trees. Never grow onions near
peas or beans.

Good Companions: Apple trees; Beetroot; Broccoli; Cabbage; Carrot;
Lettuce; Potato; Roses; Strawberry; Summer savory; Tomato


PEAS (Pisum sativum): Since peas are legumes they fix nitrogen to the
soil. Plant next to corn (a heavy feeder) and they will provide extra
nitrogen.
Most plants will benefit from being grown in soil that peas have just
vacated. Always dig spent pea vines into the soil or put them on your
compost heap.
Never grow peas near any member of the onion family – Alliums.

Good Companions: Carrot; Corn; Cucumber; Eggplant; Lettuce; Radish;
Spinach; Tomato; Turnip
Bad Companions: Chives; Garlic; Leeks; Onion; Shallots

PEPPERS, HOT (Capsicaum): Chili peppers have root exudates that
prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases.
Plant anywhere you have these problems. Teas made
from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays.


POTATOES (Solanum tuberosum): Plant potatoes near beans, corn,
cabbage and peas and all will grow well. Marigolds will benefit your potato
crop, as will a few horseradish plants (take care not to let them escape into
your garden).
Eggplant is a useful trap crop as it will lure the Colorado beetle from your
potatoes. Potatoes do not do well growing near tomatoes, squash,
cucumbers, pumpkin or raspberries.
The growth of potatoes can be stunted growing near sunflowers.
Growing potatoes around apple trees makes them more susceptible to
Phytophthora blight (the fungus that caused the Irish potato famine).


Good Companions: Beans; Cabbage; Corn; Lettuce; Onion; Petunia;
Marigold; Radish;
Bad Companions: Apple trees; Cucumber; Pumpkin; Tomato; Squash;
Sunflowers; Raspberry

PUMPKIN (Curcurbita moschate): Corn and pumpkin grow well together.
However, potatoes and pumpkin have an inhibiting effect on
each other.

Good Companions: Beans; Corn; Mint; Nasturtium; Radish
Bad Companions: Potatoes

RADISH (Raphanus sativus): Radishes are in general very helpful to other
plants. Plant radishes with your cucumber, melon and squash plants – they
help keep the cucumber beetle away.
Chervil and nasturtiums are said to give radishes a hotter, more pungent
flavour. They grow well with peas and kohlrabi.

Good Companions: Beans; Cabbage; Cauliflower; Chervil; Cucumber;
Kohlrabi; Lettuce; Nasturtium; Peas; Squash; Tomato
Bad Companions: Grape; Hyssop

RHUBARB (Rheum x cultorum): Only the stalks of this plant can be eaten
as the leaves contain oxalic acid which is poisonous. The leaves can be
made into a spray to deter aphids.


SILVERBEET (Beta vulgaris): This includes the coloured chards.
Silverbeet grows well with onions and beetroot. Silverbeet is quite a heavy


feeder, requiring additional nitrogen, so is best planted where a nitrogen
fixer (legumes) has just vacated.

Good Companions: Beetroot; Onions

SOYBEANS (Glycine max): They add nitrogen to the soil making them a
good companion to corn. They deter corn earworms and corn borers.
They repel Japanese beetles. They are also a host plant to the predatory
trichogramma wasp.

Good Companions: Corn

SPRING ONIONS / SHALLOTS (Allium cepa): These onions grow well
near most garden vegetables, but inhibit the growth of beans
and peas.

Good Companions: most vegetable crops

SPINACH (Spinacia oleracea): Spinach and Strawberries both benefit from
growing together.
Spinach develops a long tap root, so is useful in breaking up heavy soils.

Good Companions: Cabbage; Celery; Onion; Peas; Strawberries

TOMATOES (Lycopersicon lycopersicum): Tomatoes like to grow in the
same space year after year. Tomatoes and asparagus are mutually


beneficial. Tomatoes also like growing near basil, carrots, celery, chives,
marigolds, nasturtiums, onions and parsley.
Nettles growing nearby will prevent mould on tomatoes. Kohlrabi and
fennel both inhibit the growth of tomatoes.
Tomatoes produce a root extraction that inhibits the growth of apricot trees.

Good Companions: Asparagus; Basil; Cabbage; Carrot; Celery; Marigold;
Nasturtium; Nettles; Onion; Parsley; Peas; Sage
Bad Companions: Apricot trees; Fennel; Kohlrabi; Potato

TURNIPS (Brassica rapa): Turnips and peas each perform
better when grown together.

Good Companions: Nasturtium; Peas

ZUCCHINI / COURGETTES (Curcubita pepo): Zucchini grows best when
planted near nasturtiums. They keep away aphids and look stunning
together.
Grow sunflowers with zucchinis – they attract bees that also visit zucchini
flowers, pollinating them.
Zucchinis will starve lettuce and cabbage of nutrients and water, so best to
plant them away from your zucchinis.

Good Companions: Beans; Corn; Mint; Nasturtium; Radish; Sunflowers
Bad Companions: Cabbage; Lettuce; Potatoes


Companion Planting Layout Guide

A………………………….

[----------------------------]
50cm
C------------------------------

[-------------][------------][------------]
50cm

1m
B++++++++++++++++++

[---------------------------]
2m
50cm
C------------------------------
50cm

1m
A………………………….

2m
50cm
C------------------------------
50cm

1m
B++++++++++++++++++
50cm
C------------------------------
50cm

A rows – plant 2metres apart. In early spring you can plant with a frost-
resistant green manure crop such as field beans or mustard in preparation
for the growing season. From late spring until the end of the growing
season, plant with tall or spreading crops.

B rows – plant 2metres apart. These rows should yield two full crops in both
the first and second halves of the growing season.

C rows – plant 1 meter apart (twice as many rows as A or B rows). This row is
for species with a short vegetation time and compact growth.


Layout examples for good Companion Planting
The combinations below are used in-conjunction with the diagram above.
They have been chosen and placed in relation to each other to get the best
advantage for protection from pests and diseases.
You can repeat them or alternate them in rows, but don’t separate or divide
them up.

Example 1 Example 2
C:- Carrots B:- Celery & Cauliflower or other
B:- Onions early greens
C:- Carrots C:- Lettuce with Radish
A:- Tomatoes, Mustard or field Beans A:- Cucumbers, Mustard or field
C:- Parsnip Beans
C:- Lettuce with Radish
B:- Celery & Cauliflower or other
early greens
C:- Carrots & Lettuce

Example 3 Example 4
A:- Early peas, followed by Corn Salad, A:- Runner Beans
Pre-sown field Beans or Mustard C:- Cabbage, Lettuce & Radish
C:- Beetroot & Lettuce B:- Early Cabbage or Marigold
B:- Red Cabbage & Celeriac C:- Cabbage, Lettuce, other salads
C:- Beetroot & Lettuce including Endives & Kohlrabi
A:- Peas or late Cabbage
C:- Beetroot & Lettuce
B:- Cauliflower & Celeriac
C:- Early Lettuce

Example 5 Example 6
A:- Tomatoes, Broad Beans A:- Early Potatoes, followed by Corn
C:- Carrots & Parsley Salad
B:- Young Onions (for winter) C:- Early Lettuce & Spinach
C:- Parsnips B:- after potatoes have been earthed
A:- Zucchini up – Brussels Sprouts & other
C:- Carrots or Parsnips Brassicas for autumn & winter use
B:- Onions grown from seed C:- Endive


Some other good combinations!
Apples Chives, Garlic, Nasturtiums, Onions. Wallflowers
Apricots Basil, Southernwood, Tansy
Basil Asparagus, Apricots, Tomatoes, Parsley
Beans Cabbage, Carrots, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Peas, Parsley, Cauliflower,
Spinach
Beetroot Cabbage, Dwarf Beans, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Onions, Silverbeet
Borage Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Cucumbers,
Squash, Strawberries, Tomatoes
Cabbage Beans, Beetroot, Celery, Chamomile, Dill, Mint, Onions, Oregano,
Nasturtiums, Potatoes, Rosemary, Sage, Southernwood, Thyme
Carrots Chives, Lettuce, Onions, Radish, Sage
Cauliflower Celery, Beans, Nasturtiums, Tansy
Celeriac Beans, Brassicas, Marjoram, Peas, Tomatoes
Celery Cabbage, Cauliflower, Dill, Leeks, Tomatoes
Chives Apples, Carrots, Parsley, Tomatoes
Coriander Cabbage, Carrots, Chervil, Dill
Corn Cucumbers, Melons, Potatoes, Squash, Tansy, Tomatoes
Cucumbers Beans, Celery, Corn, Lettuce, Nasturtiums, (early)Potatoes, Savoy
Cabbage, Sunflowers
Dill Cabbage, Carrot, Coriander, Fennel, Tomatoes
Eggplant Beans, Marjoram, Potatoes
Fruit Trees Chives, Feverfew, French Marigold, Garlic, Horseradish, Lemon
Balm, Nasturtium, Tansy
Garlic Apples, Peaches, Roses
Geraniums Grapevines
Grapevines Basil, Geraniums, Hyssop, Mulberries
Guava Citrus
Horseradish Fruit Trees, Potatoes


Kohlrabi Beets, Cucumber, French Marigold, Lovage, Marjoram
Lavender Cabbage, Garlic, Roses, Silverbeet
Leeks Carrots, Celery
Lettuce Beetroot, Cabbage, Carrots, Marigolds, Onions, Radish, Strawberry
Marigolds Beans, Lettuce, Potatoes, Roses, Tomatoes
Mint Cabbage, Chamomile
Nasturtium Apple, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower,
Cucumbers, Radish, Turnips, Zucchini
Onions Beetroot, Carrots, Chamomile, Lettuce, Silverbeet
Oregano Cabbage
Parsley Asparagus, Chives, Roses, Tomatoes
Parsnip Beans, Garlic, Peppers, Potatoes, Radishes
Peaches Basil, Garlic, Southernwood, Tansy
Peas Carrots, Potatoes, Radish, Turnips
Potatoes Beans, Cabbage, Corn, Eggplant, Foxgloves, Horseradish,
Marigolds, Nasturtium, Peas
Pumpkins Corn, Lovage, Marjoram
Radish Chervil, Lettuce, Nasturtium, Peas
Raspberry French Marigolds, Rue, Tansy
Rosemary Beans, Cabbage, Carrots, Garlic, Parsnip, Sage
Roses Garlic, Marigolds, Onions, Parsley
Sage Beans, Cabbage, Carrots, Strawberries
Silverbeet Beetroot, Lavender, Onions
Spinach Broad Beans, Fruit Trees, Strawberries
Squash Borage, Corn, Sunflowers
Strawberries Borage, Lettuce, Pyrethrum, Sage, Spinach
Sunflowers Apricot, Bush Beans, Cucumbers, Squash
Tansy Cabbage, Grapes, Peaches, Raspberries, Roses
Thyme Cabbage, Roses
Tomatoes Asparagus, Basil, Carrots, Celery, Chives, Foxgloves, Garlic,


Marigolds, Parsley
Turnips Nasturtium, Peas
Yarrow Apple, Apricot, Grapevine, Mulberry, Tansy
Zucchini Corn, Lovage, Nasturtium, Sunflowers

How much do I plant?

This section is intended as a guide as our food needs are so varied,
depending on how many there are in your family, how many meals you eat
at home, how much you like to eat, how many visitors you get. Then
there’s your families personal taste preferences to consider.

There’s not much point in growing 10 eggplant vines if only one person
likes it. But if you like to make your own batch of tomato sauce to see you
throughout the year, you’ll want to grow extra tomatoes, onions and garlic
to provide your own delicious ingredients.

The following plant numbers are roughly based on the needs of a family of
two adults and two children (assuming your children eat vegetables!), so
add or take to suit your own requirements.

Some seasons you’ll end up with an excess of some things. I’ve never
found it to be a problem when there are so many great recipes for pickles,
preserves or sauces – not to mention my friends and family who are thrilled
when I turn up a box of goodies for them!


Beans We usually grow several types – climbing and bush varieties.
A seed packet in spring, then another in summer when the
last lot is flowering. Grow more if you want to dry some for
winter.
Beetroot 12 – 20 plants early spring, the same late spring, and again
mid-summer
Broad Beans Plant blocks of about 2 square meters late autumn / early
winter. Grow more if you want to dry some
Broccoli Twenty or so plants in mid-summer
Brussels Sprouts Twelve plants mid-summer
Cabbage 12 cabbages and red cabbage in spring, plus 20 – 30 small
cabbages late summer
Capsicum (peppers) One dozen plants in spring
Carrots Plant about a square meter per month, during spring
Cauliflower 20 – 30 plants in late summer
Celery Around 15 plants, 30 plants if you want a lot for salads
Chilli 2 or 3 plants every other year
Corn 30 – 50 plants (in blocks) in spring, then more throughout
summer
Cucumbers 6 plants in spring, then another 6 plants mid-summer
Eggplant 2 – 6 bushes
Leeks 50 – 100 plants, depending on what you use them for
Lettuce If you eat a lot of salad 6 plants every week most of the year,
except mid-winter. Plant extra late in summer for winter
lettuces or grow cut & come again lettuce
Melons 6 plants or more! You can grow them among your flowers
Onions About 400 seedlings + spring onions + chives + garlic
Parsley A dozen flat leaf & a dozen curly leaf plants – feed well
Parsnips Parsnip seed only germinates if it is really fresh, so you may
have to sow a lot of seed your first time. But then if you let
one go to seed and self-sow you’ll always have enough


Peas At least 3 packets in autumn and 3 in spring – more if you
want to freeze some
Potatoes You’ll need about 200 kg a year. Plant a large sack of seed
potatoes. You’ll find you miss gathering some and they will
produce some of your next years crop
Pumpkins 10 or 12 vines, include several bush varieties
Radish Sow a packet of seeds every other month throughout the year
Silverbeet/Spinach 10 – 20 plants, a combination of Silverbeet, spinach & chard
Tomatoes 12 plants (double if you make sauce), 2 grafted plants, a
cherry tomato, an egg tomato & a climbing yellow or
heirloom variety
Zucchini 2 - 4 plants in spring, 2 mid-summer

Again I must emphasise that good record keeping is essential in all aspects of
organic gardening, and this is particularly true for companion planting. Some
plants produce different result when grown in different areas and conditions.
The best way to get the most from your companion planting efforts is to keep
a keen eye on your garden, making notes on what works well for you and
what doesn’t.

I wish you all the best in your organic garden.
Warmly,

Julie Villani

www.1stoporganicgardening.com
www.1stoporganicgardening.com/blog


Companion Planting: A Complete Guide to Growing Healthy Plants

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